Just a warning, I'm going to be as detailed as I can so this will be a long read!


After I posted I had just purchased a surplus HMMWV in this thread, at the request of Schott8283 I'm starting this thread to lay out what I've gone through in the purchase process for people who may be interested in purchasing one too, with the hope that people who know more than I do chime in and fill in any blanks I'm sure to leave.

Here's my truck I just bought:




















She's a 1994 M998A1 with a 6.2L diesel with 38,669 on the odometer. She runs and is intact from what I can see in the pictures (minus a broken mirror). There were 50 bids on my truck with me winning it at $9,500, up from a $5,000 opening bid.


First where do you find HMMWVs for sale? Just head on over to GovPlanet, the company awarded the contract by the US Government to sell off these trucks, to find the current inventory. From what I have heard, this was a first batch of roughly 4,000 trucks released by the government to see how sales would go. Sales started about a year ago and they are more than half way to 4,000 (2,600ish as of my posting this).

From there you will be able to narrow the inventory down by state and auction end time. Auctions are held weekly on Wednesday. Inventory listed is typically out two weeks.

Definitely read through the FAQ thoroughly. It will answer almost any question you've got. That said I did run into a mistake in it that has yet to be corrected by GovPlanet that I will detail below.


Now you'll have to decide if you want to buy something close enough to pick up yourself or if you want to have it shipped to you.

Shipping will, of course, cost more the further the truck is from you. That said, picking it up yourself can be cheaper if you live close to where it is located or don't mind a little travel. My truck I just purcased is about 4.5 hours from me so I'm going to be making a day of picking it up with my brother and a friend.

If shipping it, you will have the option to get an estimate from Veritread on shipping it from where it is located to you. This can found on every truck's listing on the right hand side.

If you are picking it up yourself, you can either trailer it or flat tow it.

Trailering is preferable from what I've read from people that have done both. Flat towing can be a bit of a task as the HMMWVs can manhandle a truck that is not up to the task. To flat tow it safely you'll need the military tow bar setup designed for the truck. The complete tow bar package will likely cost you $400-$600 if you can't find one to borrow. You'll also have to disconnect the half shafts (shafts that connect from the differentials to the geared hubs that drive the wheels, also known as portal axles) to safely tow it without damaging the transmission or transfer case. Just putting it in neutral will not suffice as either the transmission or transfer case will not properly lubricate itself. I can't recall which off the top of my head without looking it up but, trust me.

If you want to trailer it but don't have a trailer you can rent a U-Haul flat bed transporter trailer. It must be one of the newer models (galvanized as opposed to orange painted). The newer ones are wider and have a higher weight rating than the older ones. Also, if you truthfully tell U-Haul what you are planning on putting on it, they will deny you the rental because they believe it is too big/heavy. You'll have to... *ahem* stretch the truth as to what you're putting on it. From what other people have said, the HMMWV will fit (albiet snugly) and the trailer can handle the weight.

If your truck is running, when picking it up, bring fresh batteries and an air pump so you won't have problems loading it.

Now for the error in the GovPlanet FAQ. You may see in the FAQ that if you have your truck shipped to you, you will not be liable for the sales tax for the state it is in if shipping it out of that state. This is incorrect straight from a GovPlanet rep I spoke with on the phone after I made my purchaes. They are collecting sales tax regardless of whether you have it picked up by a shipper or pick it up yourself. I was originally going to pick it up myself but found through the Veritread estimate on the site that it would have been cheaper to have it shipped if the sales tax wasn't collected. After the purchase I called GovPlanet to find out how to schedule the pickup since it can't be picked up until your EUC clears (I'll go into this later). That's when I found out about the tax situation. So, if you are having the truck shipped, factor the shipment cost and sales tax into your final price. That said, if you are tax exempt for any other reason you can get your sales tax you have to pay refunded. No idea how that works but there is a section in the FAQ about it and process for it.


Here we get to selecting the truck you want.

After you've found the truck you want, I recommend picking another one or two trucks you can fall back on should you be outbid. Then again, if you have enough patience, you can always just wait until the next auction. I didn't end up with my first choice truck! I had originally bid on a 1992 M998 that ended up selling for $12,750, above my $12,250 max bid (it had 10,000 fewer miles, looked cleaner, and had a 6.5L diesel and full cargo cover).

When selecting a truck, read the description and look over the pictures very thoroughly. Unless you happen to live close enough to schedule an inspection, that is all you'll have to go off of for vehicle condition. If you do live close enough, you can contact GovPlanet who will put you in touch with the local rep to let you on site to look the truck over. I did not go inspect my truck prior to purchase though I will try to sometime between now and when I receive it.

You will find the trucks listed in various running conditions such as "running", "needed jump started", "needed ether", "not running", or listed otherwise.

Advice I had seen given was that GovPlanet will typically do what they can within reason, short of replacing parts or making repairs, to get a vehicle running so that it will sell for a higher amount.  If it isn't running it could be missing vital parts or it could have a cracked piston/head/block or some other catastrophic damage. Needing a jumpstart is likely not a big deal, possibly a dead battery or at worse a faulty charging system. If it needs a shot of ether, it could be a fuel delivery issue or possibly bad fuel. These trucks have been sitting for a while so things like that and flat tires are not uncommon. Again, if loading it yourself, bring fresh batteries and an air pump for this very reason! But, if it isn't running at all, there's quite possibly a very good reason for that and you should bid accordingly while possibly going so far as planning on replacing the drivetrain. Since even if you can inspect it, you can't tear it down, any non-running truck is going to be a gamble.

Besides being in various running conditions, you will also find trucks in various states of repair. Some will be nearly 100% complete while I've also seen stripped bodies on frames with partial engines being sold. A good bit of advice I once saw posted is that if it is missing parts, there could be a very good reason the unit it was with decided to start cannibalizing it. Maybe the transmission is slipping or maybe it doesn't stay running. Regardless it was seen as a more expendable vehicle for a reason. I'm sure a lot of readers, military or otherwise dealing with keeping fleets running, have experienced this first hand. Of course, you will pay more for a more complete and well running truck. Then again if you don't mind a challenge you can potentially save a lot of money. Just know that missing or broken parts that need replaced can add up and potentially be hard to find! My truck had a broken passenger mirror. I figured it wouldn't be a big deal finding some new glass for it since I've done that before on other vehicles. After several hours of searching I turned up nothing and was forced to buy an entire mirror assembly. Individual mirrors were around $90-$100 with eBay being the best source. Given that the individual mirrors were priced what they were and the driver side mirror's paint was pretty faded, I decided to purchase a pair which ended up putting the price of both mirrors at about $80 each since it was a package deal. I also have an ignition instruction plate that is unreadable. Finding a replacement was a chore but was located.

From people with experience, trucks with body damage or paint damage will require extra care in repairing them so bid on those accordingly as well. The bodies are aluminum so typical body repair shops may or may not be able to make repairs. The paint is CARC (Chemical Agent Resistant Coating) and is typically nasty stuff when applied or sanded and requires certain precautions some shops might not be able to handle.

Another thing to keep in mind is that despite what the odometer reading is listed as, it may not accurately reflect the mileage on the truck! Speedometers are switched out without much regard to the mileage except it being recorded in the maintenance logs (which you will not have access to). Compare the trucks typical wear spots with the mileage to see if it matches up. Also, sometimes trucks are put through a depot rebuild and this may be reflected in the odometer reading, especially if it is very low. These trucks will have placards/stickers to reflect the depot maintenance but I have seen that GovPlanet tries to avoid advertising these placards/stickers because they cannot verify if the trucks have actually been through the depot repairs. The part with the placard/sticker may have simply been cannibalized off of another truck that had and if they sell it advertised as having been done, only for the buyer to find out it hasn't, they're libel.


Now we come to the actual purchase.

As I mentioned, auctions are held weekly on Wednesdays.

Each truck is listed at a starting price based on condition. Running trucks are now being started at $5000 (down from $7500) and non-running and salvage trucks are being started at less than that.

The acutual auction time for each truck only lasts for 4 minutes and below is why.

The bidding process is a little bit different than most places you may have participated in. On GovPlanet you can bid at any time before or during the auction using what they call PriorityBid. Here is the FAQ section on what the PriorityBid is:

PriorityBid is our system for placing bids during the preview period of an auction. A significant amount of all bidding in our auctions occurs with PriorityBids; more than 70% of items typically have bids on them before auction day. Because they are placed during preview, PriorityBids have a delayed effect on the price of an item: the price does not change until the auction opens. There are several advantages of using PriorityBids:

   You do not have to be at your computer on auction day. When you place a PriorityBid, you specify the maximum you are willing to pay for an item. You will be told immediately if yours is the highest bid placed so far, but you will not know how much of your bid amount remains to protect you from later bidders. Your bid amount is confidential and our auction software will keep you in the lead against competitive bids through the preview and on auction day or until your maximum amount is exceeded. If you get outbid by another PriorityBid, an automatic email will immediately be sent to you.

   You can win the item for less than your maximum amount. In our style of auctions, the price the winner pays is determined by the price the runner-up was willing to pay. The final price is never more than one bid increment greater than the next-highest bid. So, if you have little competition, you can win an item for less than your maximum amount. We recommend you determine your "no regrets" price—the price at which, if someone else were to win, you would not regret the outcome—and then bid one increment below that.

   Bidding early helps ensure that you are the winner. When competing PriorityBids are placed for the same amount, the earliest bid takes precedence (it has Priority at that price), so submitting your bid early gives you an advantage. You can place a PriorityBid online any time day or night, or by fax during our Customer Care hours.

   Freedom to keep an eye out for other bargains. PriorityBids give you the freedom to browse and track other items on auction day without worrying about your "must-have" items. Our system acts as your assistant, constantly monitoring your PriorityBids and keeping you in the lead until the price goes beyond your designated maximum bid amount.

As auction day approaches, you can check the status of your PriorityBids in the Buying List of My Account. Make sure your email address and notification settings are correct in My Account Profile so that you can receive outbid notification emails. Before even being outbid, you can increase the maximum on any of your PriorityBids by placing a new PriorityBid on the same item for your new maximum amount (don't worry, you can not outbid yourself). Like all bids, PriorityBids are binding and can not be retracted nor reduced.


That pretty much lays it out. Bid what you're willing to go to before the auction starts. You won't know what the actual price is but if you get outbid at any point they will notify you via email and you can up your max bid if you want. If you bid a certain amount first, you get priority if someone else bids the same amount after you.

Also, bids are in $250 increments.

When deciding how much to bid, as I mentioned above, you will have to add in sales tax and transportation costs. That's not all though! You'll also have to factor in title costs as well as a 10% buyer fee! The title option with a Florida state off road title, a SF97 (essentially a federal government title), and a bill of sale will run you $150. Just the bill of sale and SF97 is cheaper but, you'll have to know if your state has any problems with dealing with SF97s. The Florida state title option was developed to help buyers deal with states that have problems with SF97s. Just the bill of sale is cheaper still but that may not be enough for some states. Know what is good for your state or err on the side of caution and get the full package!

I bought my truck for $9500. Between the 6% Kentucky state sales tax, the full titling option, and the 10% buyers fee I ended up with about an extra $1750 added to my purchase price. Then I've got to add in trailer rental and fuel costs to go pick it up.


And here we get to the post auction process.

So you've won your auction! Congratulations!

There are now some steps to take to finalize your purchase.

You will start by going through the checkout process. Here you will decide if you're shipping your truck or transporting it your self, selecting your titling options, and then finalizing the invoice total based on the options. After the invoice is finalized you will pay GovPlanet via wire transfer. Payment must be made within 3 business days or you may incur late fees usually $25-$50 per day depending on final sale price. If you go past a certain time, your item may be considered abandoned and you get charged an even bigger fee. There's also other stuff listed here.

But paying for it isn't the only thing you have to do!

On your account page you will be sent links (on the right hand side of the main account screen) to fill out your Hold Harmless Agreement which gets sent to one email address. You can print it out, physically sign it, and then physically mail it in. You can physically sign it, scan it, and then email it in. Or you can digitally sign it and email it in.

Most importantly, since the HMMWV is a defense article, you will have to fill out an EUC - End Use Certificate. This basically lets Uncle Sam know the final disposition of the item you're buying - if you're going to keep it, sell it, exporting it or not and if you are you have clearance to. This may seem to be a daunting part but GovPlanet has conveniently set up a form wizard that will assist you in filling it out correctly with descriptions of each field needing filled out. You will also need to send in a copy of your driver's license (preferably) or other government issued ID. Make sure your scan/photo of your license is crystal clear or your EUC may get kicked back after a very lengthy initial time period delaying you even further! Just like with the Hold Harmless Agreement you can send it in using one of the previously mentioned methods. It will be emailed to a different email address than the Hold Harmless Agreement though.

Directions are included with both forms.

First time EUC filers like I am can expect a 8-12 week wait. If you've previously filed an EUC with GovPlanet (GovLiquidation not included!) within, I believe the last year, your wait will be considerably shorter. This part is a bit like the whole NFA application and waiting game!


Here I'm getting to the pickup process and since I haven't yet picked up my truck, can only relay what information I've gleaned.

After your payment is received and your EUC is cleared you have 8 business days to remove your truck or you'll incur storage fees. Now, not to worry, if there are incidental delays GovPlanet will work with you so long as you are making a good faith effort to pick it up. This is word straight from a GovPlanet manager on Steel Soldiers. They simply put that there to keep people from abusing the time given to pick up the truck.

To pick up the truck you'll have to schedule a pick up time. If you are picking it up, it should be as simple as it sounds. If you're having a shipper pick it up, the pick up time will have to be coordinated between GovPlanet, your shipper, and you. You don't need to be on site for the shipper to pick it up.

Since I'm fuzzy on this part if you have any questions it would be best to call GovPlanet for clarification at 1-844-225-8799, Monday-Friday 6am-5pm Pacific.


Once you've got your truck at your site, it is not recommended you hop in and start cruising around! Your truck may have been sitting for months or a year or more!

A full fluid change is recommended. Since these are diesels, Shell Rotella T is a good motor oil. Replace other fluids as recommended by AM General. Specifications can be found in military TMs which are available at Steel Soldiers and other sites. Add fresh fuel, draining as needed to get a good mix to burn off the old stuff.

Check all of your important fasteners like lugnuts to make sure they are secure. Some very important fasteners unique to the HMMWV design are the bolts that connect the differential to the half shaft and the half shaft to the geared hubs. These can work their way out and should have some blue Loctite applied to prevent that. If they come loose they can damage brakes and other equipment!

Check for any leaks GovPlanet may have missed.

If you run into anything that was not on your inspection report, report it right away to GovPlanet to take advantage of their Iron Clad Guarantee which basically states they will disclose any problems as best they can. If they examine your claim and find it valid, they will refund a portion of your purchase price. If it's something internal and you knowingly bought a non-running truck don't count on any sort of refund. If you bought what appears to be a complete truck and it's missing say a mirror or seat, or it has some other problem that wasn't listed, you will likely see some money coming back to you. When in doubt file a claim. Worst case they deny it.


Now at this point we get into a topic that Steel Soldiers will not permit on their site: Titling, plating, and insuring for road use.

If you do bring it up, the topic will be deleted and you may be banned. For some reason they think that violating the purchase agreement and putting these trucks on the road will cause Uncle Sam and GovPlanet to stop selling them.

When you sign the Hold Harmless Agreement with GovPlanet, part of it states that you acknowledge the HMMWV is not roadworthy. The Florida title and SF97 are also stamped "Off Road Use Only":




That said, in many states, there are methods of titling off road vehicles for on road use. Check local laws! We've tried to compile instructions for various states below.

(Old Ohio registration information contained within)
Click To View Spoiler

For insurance, a number of companies out there will insure military vehicles. You'll have to call around. Although Steel Soldiers doesn't allow discussion about insuring the HMMWVs for road use, they do have a list of companies that have been known to insure military vehicles.


If you want technical information on the HMMWV there are two great resources

Steel Soldiers
G503.com

Despite my thinking that banning certain discussions about on road use of HMMWVs on Steel Soldiers is stupid, both have excellent information on HMMWVs and other military vehicles. Steel Soldiers also has one thing G503 doesn't which is a section dealing with the intricacies of purchasing from GovLiquidation and GovPlanet. A GovPlanet manager with the username of "Jwade" also participates in the HMMWV purchasing threads there answering questions and helping clear roadblocks you may run into. This thread is a good place to find him. (Update: "Jwade" is no longer with GP, Phil Hasty has filled his role.)


While waiting for my truck I've already started picking up accessories for it. If anyone wants me to I can go into what I've been picking up and why but customizing your truck will come down to what you like!


So, this is where everything currently stands with me. If anyone who has gone further in the process or has more detailed knowledge spots missing/incorrect information could contribute, it would be most appreciated!

HMMWV How-To Tech Links:

• Cutting Down 2 Man Troop Seats To Fit A 4 Man Truck


• Making Soft Half Doors

HMMWV Reference Material:

• HMMWV Operator and Technical Manuals

UPDATED 7/19/2017: State Registration Instructions

Ohio:
As of April 21, 2017 The State Of Ohio Department Of Public Safety, Bureau Of Motor Vehicles, Title Division sent the following Title Broadcast to all state title offices:



This is being used as justification by the BMV to (incorrectly) deny accepting the 3803 forms mentioned previously (to the point of claiming the form no longer exists). There have been conflicting reports of whether the BMV is continuing to accept registration for HMMWVs with valid, on road out of state titles. So far there has been no rescinding of on road titles for currently titled trucks.

THE BELOW IN THE SPOILER BOX FOR THE STATE OF OHIO SHOULD NOT BE USED FOR ANYTHING OTHER THAN INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ON THE PREVIOUS PROCESS!


Click To View Spoiler


Georgia: (Thanks to Lawman734)
The Georgia procedures manual states that to register a former military vehicle, it has to have been titled elsewhere (like a FL or MT title) or an SF97 needs to be provided. You'll need a VIN verification regardless (form is available at the tag office).

SF-97 - Even if it's not in your name, a bill of sale is sufficient from the original owner (GovPlanet) to the new owner (you). This works ok, but you're at the mercy of the clerk regarding the "Off-Road Use Only" part. Many are ok, others get a hassle.

Off-Road Florida titles - These don't seem to be an issue, but again - you're at the mercy of clerk on how they want to handle it given the fact its an off-road title and offroad vehicles in GA don't require registration.

Montana titles - These seem to be the easiest to work with and the most hassle free.

Prepare yourself so that it appears you know what you're doing. Bring the Title/SF97 along with your completed (signed by LEO) VIN Verification form and proof of insurance. It's a good idea to bring a photo of the vehicle and the vehicle data plate for good measure, even if not needed. The sales tax you paid will do you no good for the Georgia taxes and fees, but with proof that you paid in Georgia - contact Iron Planet because they say they'll refund your taxes - I'm still waiting on my check after 3 weeks.


Iowa: (Thanks to beef1911)
In Iowa you can get a Bonded title. All you need is a bill of sale or paid invoice. You have to apply to the DOT (2 weeks to respond), sign a form for military vehicles saying it meets FMVSS standards, get a bond for 1.5x the value of the humvee ($113 for $7500 bond for 3 years), wait for the DOT for 2 more weeks, then they say you can go get it registered. Same process for if you bought a car and did not receive a title. All this was done over email. Except for the registration.


Texas: (Thanks to EagleArmsHBAR)
In Texas, vehicles like a military surplus HMMWV can be registered under several categories:

1) normal registration;
2) antique (if over a particular age); and
3) former military vehicle

If registered as an antique or for more military vehicle, they don't have to pass inspection, but they are then limited on road use. If the vehicle passes inspection and is insured, it can be registered as a regular vehicle.

If all else fails in Texas and they won't accept an SF97 for some reason, a title can be obtained by going the bonded title route. Of course there are additional details with any of these registration methods, but that's the basics.


New York: (Thanks to kevin101)
My experience with NY was pretty simple.

1. I called Geico and was able to insure it pretty easily. It's insured as a normal vehicle with full coverage and didn't cost too much.
2. Brought my insurance card, SF97 marked "off road use only", my reassignment letter from GovPlanet, and the paid invoice from GovPlanet.
3. I handed everything over to the motor vehicle clerk who looked everything over. She mentioned the off road use only stamp but didn't seem to give it much thought and it didn't come up again.
4. Due to the truck not having a standard VIN she had to enter the vehicle manually. The only problem she had was having the computer accept the 6 digit ID number. She called a supervisor over who also looked over the paperwork quickly and the supervisor was able to override the system to enter the 6 digits.
5. I had to pay NY sales tax for the purchase price of the truck. I paid a 6% tax for Kentucky but NY doesn't have a tax agreement with that state. I'm hoping to get a refund from GovPLanet for the KY tax I paid.


Michigan:
Sorry, but anyone in Michigan seems to be out of luck with any sort of surplus HMMWV. Your state hates you. Not only are they denying on road registration of newly purchased auction vehicles but, if you buy a HMMWV legally titled out of state they will contact the state of origin in an attempt to get the title revoked and still refuse to title it on road. I'm betting you'll still run into some sort of issues even with the clear titled M1123s too due to ignorance but, who knows.

I suggest you all get some legislative action going to fix this!


South Carolina: (Thanks to An51960)
for the registration process, in SC, I would avoid the Greenville (University Ridge) location (that's where the lady told me I needed a title rather than a "certificate to obtain title"--she clearly had never seen an SF-97 and did not know what to do with it). After the one lady made several trips to ask other agents how to proceed, she said, "My boss will have to call headquarters." HQ was also clueless about how to proceed, however, they did get on a high horse about the off-road notation and state that there was no way to convert an off-road vehicle to an on-road vehicle (though they did admit that you could build a dune buggy in your garage and get it on the road). I ended up leaving there and going to Woodruff.

At the other location, I buried them in paperwork. I showed them my email where I won the auction, my invoice from gov planet, my email certifying my payment, my notice that my EUC was approved, my bill of sale, my insurance paperwork, my SF-97, and the notarized form transferring ownership from gov planet to me. The attitude at this office was much more figuring out how to help versus how to shut me down. The lady was very confused, but asked a fellow employee how to do things and pushed everything right on through. They told me I was going to have to pay sales tax all over again and get a refund from gov planet for the tax. They said the policy went into effect on 1 July. I pointed out that I had purchased before this date and they let me out of that even though the computer insisted that I pay it again. They kept my invoice showing the payment of state sales tax in case they needed to defend themselves again their own bureaucracy. The lady who issued my temporary tag works at this office and she knew enough to tell me that I would need my government certificate (SF-97) to get a title, so she clearly would've known what it was if she had been the one behind the desk that day.

I would also avoid the Blythewood location since this is where the Greenville office called.



UPDATED 8/7/2017: Insurance

Here's a list of insurance companies that will insure the trucks. Some more easily than others. You should probably call since these aren't standard trucks.

- State Farm
- Geico
- Liberty Mutual
- USAA
- Progressive
- Hagerty

There are other insurance companies that are out there that may insure these trucks so, if you are able to use one not listed, please let me know and I'll add it to the list.



Reputable Parts Suppliers:
So you've got your new HMMWV and are probably now looking for parts to fix one thing or another. Beware there are a lot of new companies popping up to make a quick buck off all of the new HMMWVs hitting the market and may be selling substandard parts.

If you're looking for OEM HMMWV parts there are a couple good sources sources:

- Mac Motors - They carry a couple handy pre-assembled filter kits. Just search for PM-A, PM-B, or PM-C depending on what you need. Otherwise search for your needed part number
- Hummer Parts Guy - Can search by name or part number.
- AM General Direct - Parts direct from AMG. Some good prices, some decent prices on some hard to find items, and some items priced like they're selling them to Uncle Sam.
- Kascar is a popular HMMWV parts dealer but, a number of buyers including myself, believe we have received out of spec reproductions and non-OEM substituted parts. In some instances, Kascar might be the only option available but they I can't really be recommended them as a primary my first go to source.
UPDATE 8/23/2017: Updating this section as Ron from Kascar contacted me personally today after seeing this post, looked me up by my name and order history, and assured me they always supply OEM parts and, to contact them if there are ever any issues with parts quality. In fairness to Kascar, I'd say after several purchases from them since this was made, my experience could best be classified as a "mixed bag" though I hope any and all future purchases are all positive
UPDATE 2/17/2020: I've made several orders with Kascar since the last update with all going well and everything exactly what it was supposed to be.
- Adventure Accessories is another great OEM option but they're geared more towards civilian H1 parts since they're the former Lynch Hummer group.
- BlueHummer Outfitters also sells OEM parts for both HMMWVs and H1s but also has some in house upgrade parts like upgraded spindle nuts, reusable half shaft bolt kits, and flexible caliper side brake lines. BlueHummer has closed up shop. Their items are now carried by Mod Mafia.

Not generally recommended:
Wolfer Parts/ComTac/MotoFino Truck Parts/Augusta Engine Parts has a combination of surplus OEM parts as well as in house manufactured driveline parts like half shafts and suspension parts like ball joints. It appears their "in house" parts are Chinese manufacture but they don't disclose this.

There are some surplus parts dealers out there that are great to deal with like Equipment Parts Sales. If you don't see it on their site, email them direct about what you're looking for. They've told me they don't always have their full inventory up on the website. They'll also work on prices on bundle purchases.

There are a number of surplus parts dealers also selling on eBay. Of them, the most reputable are beltfed34/Austin Aviation and amtak2/Arrowhead Lake XS Surplus. hdps_corp and militarysurplusparts deal in surplus parts but may have limited HMMWV parts. As mentioned, there are a number of others selling surplus parts. Just make sure if you're buying from them and they're claiming new surplus, they have correct military stickers on the packaging with the NSN or, at the least they have good feedback on the surplus they're selling.

Lastly, for surplus and especially hard to find parts, get in touch with Steel Soldiers and G503 member 86humv.

When in doubt though, post here and ask!

You will. It just takes so many cleanings I lost count.



My paint is officially done (except one small spot at the driver's side hood hinge that somehow both Dave and I missed and is still tan ). Didn't have time to take a ton of pics but got a couple. Dave did an awesome job on the camo and taught me some paint stuff (he's done quite a bit of auto paint).

A couple takeaways with the Sherwin Williams CARC:

- Pot time once you've mixed it up is very short. Only mix enough as you go, like 1 quart at a time.
- It is much easier to spray when it is diluted. Also much easier to spray when you aren't running a strainer in the gun.
- 1 gallon of green CARC, thinned to 20% is probably close to enough to do two trucks in one color. The gallons of black and brown will leave an absurd amount left over. Either make sure you've got more than one vehicle to paint or someone to buy the left overs.
- The CARC is pretty forgiving on application. I thought for sure it would look like Michael J. Fox did the paint but it came out very smooth.

With how it turned out, I very highly recommend using the CARC. It came out looking great. It has a much lower luster than the Rapco CARC substitute. If I get a chance, I'll take a pic of Dave's and my truck side by side to see if a picture show the difference. The CARC is much flatter.

Also, very highly recommend the DeVilbiss DeKups system. Makes application a much easier process when you can switch and throw away the liner cups as you want as well as run lacquer thinner through to keep it clean.

Anywho, here's the pics...

The green dried this morning before I added the additional 2 coats:




What was once tan is now green!




Here it is with the fresh camo Dave did. He literally just finished spraying the black and touching up part of the brown. That's why it's still wet:







We put the old windshields back in to block overspray of the black/brown into the interior.

Can't wait to start putting it back together! Going to wait until next weekend though after it's had a chance to fully cure. Will start unmasking it tomorrow after work.

I finally finished with phase 1 of my tag light and reverse lights (and I also downloaded the imgur app).

https://imgur.com/gallery/287pL

I drilled out the holes that were already at the corners to 3/4" and installed those button LEDs. I wanted to keep it looking clean (until I pile on a bunch of spotlights). For now, there's just a switch for activation, but eventually, I plan to install a reverse switch.

For the plate light, I just made my own splitter to go between the vehicle harness and the passenger taillight (circuit 21) to provide power to the LED plate light. Now, its on any time the headlights are on.

Now, if only they'd send me a dadgum sf97, maybe I could get a real plate.

Those are pretty slick looking for reverse lights! Where'd you find those?

Northern tool in the trailer section. About $3 each IIRC. 3/4" LED button lights. They're actually meant to be running lights. Unfortunately, it was really dark when I got finished, so I don't know how well they'll show up in broad daylight, but they're very bright at night. Right now, I have a fuse and a switch running off just the rear battery. I wasn't sure if they would like 24v since they were designed for 12v.

ETA: I just checked them again. They're bright enough for daytime use if anyone wants to use them. I posted a photo of the package to imgur so you can find them. Name brand is Blazer. I see they're on clearance here, so you might want to pick them up if they are at your store as well. I'm sure you could find them other places, but get them while they're cheap. They have a 6-pack for $16 right now.

I wish my truck looked as good as yours.

At that price I might just have to swing by and grab a couple even if I don't end up using them.

And thanks! It's taken a year and a half of busting my ass and throwing enough money at it... At this point, It's about 75% where I want it.

paint looks great.  the truck im buying is faded some but not enough to warrant a total repaint until i really want to do so.  

how did you guys trace out the brown and black pattern?  ive heard of guys using chalk to draw it on after the green base is on there.

what kind of prep did you do to the truck?  its not like you shot over gloss so i dont know if you had to rough up the old paint much at all.

still waiting on the new KY title for "my" 2 door truck.  are fiberglass X doors really all $750+ like i keep seeing everywhere?  $500 for two doors i could swing but damn.  i wont touch that on principle alone.

Here's the package if you decide to go get some lights, just so you know what to look for:

https://imgur.com/gallery/aJ0sJ

I'm going to have to drive to Ohio and get you to paint mine.

Thanks!

For the patterns, Dave originally used TB 43-0209 as a reference for his truck since it was tan. He then went and used chalk to draw dashed outlines of both. I looked at his compared to other trucks and it was spot on. When he did my truck he brought his over for reference, as well as took pictures of his on his phone, and repeated the chalk outlines on mine. He did have to make corrections to the pattern but, the chalk rubs right off. To actually lay down the pattern he first did a round spray pattern to outline each color section then widened it to fill it in. First he did the brown and then overlaid that with the black.

As for prep, nothing too involved. A while back Dave had rented a heated pressure washer for some projects and invited me to use it while he had it. So first I gave it a good hot water pressure washing. Then I tore everything down and pressure washed it with my regular pressure washer, including pressure washing off my old decals. Then I used ProForce Degreaser (from Sam's Club) diluted and applied with the soap applicator on my pressure washer and rinsed. I finished it up using lacquer thinner to get the adhesive left behind by the decals and acetone to clean any remaining grease spots. When pressure washing I made sure to get as much loose paint off. Thankfully there wasn't much. If you've got big patches of bare aluminum, you'll want to put on some Alondine. Other than that, just mask everything off and go to town!

And yeah, it's unfortunately a seller's market on X-doors. The only way you're getting any cheap is making a trip to Southern Metals and hoping they have some but, the haven't had any new inventory in weeks, since before I even went down there. That or the Plan B doors but those have mixed reviews.


Haha! I can do solid colors no problem but I just don't have the eye and the hand to do the camo.

Thanks for the pic of the package!

Got my keyed ignition installed tonight.

https://imgur.com/gallery/yr4cW

Now, the key has to be turned to on, and the original switch has to be set to run also. Completely reversible without drilling out the hole of the original switch. A little more security and I'm also going to hide a battery cut off.

Not sure why the links aren't active.

Attached File


Anyone lose control on a load on I 10 west In Alabama/Miss today?

Nice! Looks out of the way...

As for the links, just put [ url] and [ /url] (without the spaces at the front and end of the link. The ARFCOM board software doesn't automatically hotlink.




No but I did spot these on I-71/75 near Florence, KY today. Probably headed to Campbell or Knox...

Was going back through my phone clearing out old pics and the pics I jut posted made me realize I forgot to post these that I spotted on my trip down to Southern Metals. Most likely headed to Bragg.








Some very cool GMVs!

Very nice job Ryan.  You give me another motivational post.

I didn't realize the Sherwin Williams was water based.  I've always use oil based paint.  I might have to give it a try.

But it is going to be a while before I fully paint mine.  Way too many things still to put on. Winches, Turret, Hard top, gas can mounts....and on....

SF-97 arrived yesterday with only 9 days left before I start paying late registration penalties. Spending the day in govt hell. A line for the privilege of getting them to give me a property tax bill. A line at a different office to pay the tax bill. At least that was only just over $30. A different building for the DMV and another line. Already been through part A where you get your number and part B where they figure out that they don't know what to do with you (and put you aside while they call headquarters--probably a bad thing, it's got me nervous). Siting here waiting for them to decide something and call me back up. I should've gone to a smaller office.

ETA:  original office said no, but success! Went to a small town one county over and got it. At the bigger office, the lady actually said, "you can't use a 'certificate to obtain a title' to get a title. You have to have a title first." What a dummy.

What tough books are yall using?

Any place you guys could recommend?



We need a .mil  vehicle subforum

Not a half bad idea!

Posted to your GD thread you paged me to.

Ryan and all,

Anyone able to get their tracking software to recognize the builtin GPS on the GD8200's?
Mine won't recognize it.  I'm using TOPO USA.  I've used it for years in other laptops with external GPS's attached with no issues.
I've looked at the Com ports and other info on the installed navigator software to see if I can replicate that in my software, but it still wont connect..
I can't find the GPS in the device manager, so I haven't found where it resides to look at how it is set up.
Anyone found where it in the windows architecture?

Yes, I was able to use Streets And Trips with it no problem.

I've played around with DuOS for on board Android emulation a little and it can use the GPS but, it seems to be hit or miss. Sometimes it will act like the GPS is in use outside of it and tied up. A reboot of the laptop seems to take care of it. There doesn't seem to be any way for DuOS to take control of it.

It should auto default to COM3.

Just keep in mind, only one software app can use the GPS at once since it is a serial connection.

Roger That,

Yeah, understand the COM port availability and it being on COM3.

I'm thinking my software is a little old (about 10 y.o.) and just can't recognize the GPS as it is configured in the Laptop.

I was hoping to avoid buying new software but I think that may be what I need to do.

Thanx

Have any of y'all updated the OS on the GD8200?

Nah, I'm pretty happy with Win7. Not a huge fan of Win10.

I'm happy with 7 too.  I hate learning new OS's.

I still have XP and Vista on some of my other laptops.

I didn't see Hagerty listed for insurance. That's who I went with after USAA canceled me (in their words, "We should never have issued you a policy for that type of vehicle,"--not as upsetting as the next comment, "We're not sure we would have covered it if it had been in an accident,"), and after State Farm never called back (even after I gave them Ryan's agent's contact info so that they could easily figure out how to set up the policy).

Also, for the registration process, in SC, I would avoid the Greenville (University Ridge) location (that's where the lady told me I needed a title rather than a "certificate to obtain title"--she clearly had never seen an SF-97 and did not know what to do with it). After the one lady made several trips to ask other agents how to proceed, she said, "My boss will have to call headquarters."  HQ was also clueless about how to proceed, however, they did get on a high horse about the off-road notation and state that there was no way to convert an off-road vehicle to an on-road vehicle (though they did admit that you could build a dune buggy in your garage and get it on the road). I ended up leaving there and going to Woodruff.

At the other location, I buried them in paperwork.  I showed them my email where I won the auction, my invoice from gov planet, my email certifying my payment, my notice that my EUC was approved, my bill of sale, my insurance paperwork, my SF-97, and the notarized form transferring ownership from gov planet to me. The attitude at this office was much more figuring out how to help versus how to shut me down. The lady was very confused, but asked a fellow employee how to do things and pushed everything right on through. They told me I was going to have to pay sales tax all over again and get a refund from gov planet for the tax. They said the policy went into effect on 1 July. I pointed out that I had purchased before this date and they let me out of that even though the computer insisted that I pay it again. They kept my invoice showing the payment of state sales tax in case they needed to defend themselves again their own bureaucracy.  The lady who issued my temporary tag works at this office and she knew enough to tell me that I would need my government certificate (SF-97) to get a title, so she clearly would've known what it was if she had been the one behind the desk that day.

I would also avoid the Blythewood location since this is where the Greenville office called.  Being a LEO helped absolutely none. I hate the DMV. Last year they tried to suspend my license because I didn't have insurance on a car I had sold two years previously.

Awesome! Glad you're finally on the road!

I'll try to remember to add your process to my OP for South Carolina tomorrow.

I have Hagerty after switching from JC Taylor. I believe Ed also has Hagerty. So far they have been very easy to work with and do not have any restrictions like JC Taylor did.

As for the DMV stuff, I have found the rural offices are more willing to help. Here in Texas, the offices closer to Houston have turned people away, but the offices in the rural outlying areas have helped people. The one I go to (30 miles outside of Houston) was a quick process. I was shocked and since then have directed several people there and they have had similar results.

If the weather holds out tomorrow afternoon, the seller will be delivering "my" truck down here to Georgetown and off to the DMV we will go.  Truck is already registered and the title came in after he prodded the local DMV and the goons in Frankfort (the hive of kentucky bureaucracy).  Turns out after almost 4 weeks of waiting for the title to show up it was just sitting around unmailed.

I started on insurance right before I even went to see the truck for the first time.  My state farm guy in Lexington didn't work on anything for weeks, really.  Underwriters initially said no, and I went elsewhere.  Hagerty's was on the ball but would only do full coverage at about $45 a month, which is ridiculous.  Kentucky Farm Bureau was floored by my request but responded 5 days later with a surprising "yes".  It was gonna be $30 something for full coverage if I put everything I own with them.  Of course I didn't want full coverage for a hmmwv but I was too busy to follow up on what liability or everything except collision would cost.

This whole time the seller was set up at $7 a month liability-only with his State Farm guy a few counties over.  That agent's office never would contact me or my SF agent.  I think said agent knows his policy isn't correct and doesn't want to get caught on it.  In addition, Ryan Ruck offered his SF policy information from Ohio to help things along.  I offered that to SF and they acted like I hadn't even said it.  After about three weeks I threatened my agent to switch to KFB, and he finally did about 10 minutes of work and discovered that hey, all of a sudden state farm in lexington will cover the humvee!  wow, imagine that.  I fully intend to make the switch to KFB once work dies down a little and I can compare everything I have insured across the board, but state farm is offering liability and comprehensive for $29 a month.  That is good enough for me to get started with.  I can't imagine why its that expensive to insure a 23 year old truck that is listed at about 12K in value, for a guy with no accidents and a home and like 4 other vehicles on the policy.  Maybe because I'm 30?  It all seems like some bullshit to me.

I contacted my local DMV a month or so ago to ask if we would be good to transfer this existing road title when the time came, and I got a quick response explaining they were aware of 'some' humvees being titled but weren't yet sure which ones.  But they claimed if it was already titled in state that it should be a simple transfer.  We will see I suppose.  

Will post pics and write up to go along with the truck sometime this coming week.  Have to go out of town with the wife for about 5 days starting friday...and in the meantime have to work my butt off to get ready to leave.  The truck will pretty much just get loaded into my garage and I might have a chance to drive into G-town one evening before leaving.  The suspense will be killing me.  

Truck is basically a complete 2 man setup with troop seats and bows/cover, but I will be looking for a few things to spruce it up.  So far I'm interested in a radio tray of some sort for cab storage.  I would like to do the airlift rear bumper so I have something to keep people from plowing into the rear of the body at stoplights.  May be interested in a rhino tire mount after that, haven't decided.

With the painting done I decided it's time to finish off the deep water fording kit so it's more than just looks and I've already spent money on the most expensive parts.

I had ordered the hardest to find parts, the special CDR valve and dash selector valve, from Mac Motors several weeks back when I had an order in with them and, the dash plate for the selector valve from Kascar when I was ordering my new decals from them.

So I went ahead and ordered the last of the parts I should need to include the power steering cap and engine oil dipstick tube from eBay and, from Kascar the sensor cup, sealing trans and oil dipsticks, and trans dipstick tube. I was actually pretty surprised how cheap the parts were at Kascar.

Looking at the diagrams and parts lists, it appears all of the hose that interconnects everything is simple 1/4" ID hose so I ordered a bulk 25' roll of fuel grade hose from Amazon.

That leaves only some brass barb fittings for the hoses, various tees and the like.

So, anyone have any recommendations on places to get those? I was going to stop by TSC since I know they sell them. Just wondering if anyone knew of any place else that would be priced well.

Once it's done, I really need to sit and add up the cost of all the parts. I know it's going to come in far cheaper than buying the whole deep water fording kit...

Truck is about 80% back together at this point. Still need to get some bigger stuff installed like my front bumper, snorkel, exhaust stack, and light bar.

Also ordered some of that D shaped weather seal from db Engineering to do my door openings and, some outdoor grade Velcro for the cargo area cover around the rear quarters. I think those will greatly improve sealing up the truck when the doors and tops are on, which is going to be right around the corner...

Been a few days and I've finally had time to sit down for a minute.  Got this 1994 M998A1 2 seater on monday from the fella that got it at auction and flipped it.  6.5 GEP and pretty clean but the paint is faded and Ryan Ruck's post earlier has got me inspired to repaint in the same 3 color camo.  Truck escaped the DRMO process with the unit markings intact from a field artillery guard outfit here in KY.  Immediately I'm gonna get looking for some 383 in spray cans so I can refinish the bows and small parts (rapco looks like a possibility for spraypaint).  Passenger side door window zipper let loose from the vinyl so I'm gonna stitch that up and let it ride until the day I might find some X doors.  Top vinyl is pretty faded but I may let it ride.  Looks like I can get one brand new for a decent price so I may go with that.  

Wiper washer won't spray but I haven't gotten in to see if its clogged yet.  Mounted a piece of steel with a 90 degree bend right under the left side of the body using bolt holes that were existing and stuck the license plate on it.  Later this year I will get after an airlift bumper to give the truck a fighting chance at the traffic lights.  

I'm not thrilled with one of the front tires and I want to have a spare sitting around the garage so I'm considering new tires...but I noticed that the goodyear directional ones that are on it are listed at like $660 a piece new so won't be headed that route.  I'm also in the market for a basic radio tray for the sole purpose of in cab phone and what have you storage, not actual radio equipment.

Put about 45 miles on it since then and alot of that is highway driving at 55mph.  Oil pressure sits at about 30 which seems maybe a little low to me (isn't 40 about normal once warmed up?) and temp stays at 210 or 215ish with the normal fan coming on for 5-10 seconds once in awhile.  For some reason I remembered the fan to suck power while running but it doesn't seem to do so in reality.  And it baaaaarely fits in one of my tiny 8 foot garage doors.  I had to back in while riding the brake pedal and stop to remove the pass door and fold the mirrors in.  Funny thing is, with the mirrors folded the widest point of the whole rig is the door handles.


Beyond happy with the purchase and look forward to tinkering with the truck.  It brings back alot of not-so-distant memories.  

Augas,
Meant to comment on your post and forgot.

Good looking truck!

The washer pump is a common failure item. See this post on SS for a cheap replacement pump.

The HMMWV looks at home bunked with his little brother.



I got some work done today. Still putting things back together from the painting. The radio tray was about the last of it which I hit with some Rapco rattlecan. While I was reinstalling that, I put in my new cup holders. I'm extremely pleased with how they turned out! Finally a cup holder that doesn't suck!




I do need to start working on getting my VIC-3 actually installed since the only thing I'm missing at this point is one crew station.

I had also ordered some of the X-135 adhesive backed gasketing from db Engineering with the intent of using it to surround my door openings to better seal my doors. Had to call db Engineering since they don't have it on their online store. I ordered 1 roll per door and an extra roll to put at the Velcro seam on my soft top to hopefully channel rain down to the sides instead of into the cabin.

Very pleased with this product! It is perfectly sized to fit along the door ridges and the top rails. I opted to keep it in a single piece running it around the door to reduce spots for water intrusion and found the material folds into itself very well and stays stuck in place nicely. The adhesive is great and sticks to the CARC and Monstaliner alike with no problem. It also curves with the lines, such as those at the rear door, quite well. Can't think of a single thing I don't like about it except when test fitting a door, I found it is now quite difficult to latch the door. I may need to see if I can trim the back of the catch on the handle to allow more clearance as I've already got the catches on the body as far out as they will go.












Also mounted up the HMMWV tow bar I picked up from Southern Metals, since that seems like the best place to keep it, and installed a mud flap kit I just picked up since prices have finally started coming down on those.






That rear pic makes me realize I still need to add the unit markings back on...

Truck looks great! I'm enjoying watching it come together!

Thanks!



I also forgot to mention in my last couple update posts that since painting I've applied the new marking decals I picked up from Kascar, for things like sling and tie down points. I've got to say, I'm not entirely pleased with how they've worked out.

Some have stuck just fine while others were nothing but headaches trying to get the letters to stick to the body while taking off the backing paper, namely the "Sling And Tie Down" stickers on the back. Some of those letters have already started coming off. Thankfully I've got some that came with the mud flap kits that are supposed to be installed on the bumper that I'm just going to put on the body.

It seemed like the ones I had problems with were more prone to sticking to the paper than the body. I know it's not the paint since I put them on before I even drove the truck anywhere after finishing the painting so I'm wondering if they used some substandard vinyl since I'm sure these were die cut either in house or by a local supplier. They are the correct font and size though so they do look good when they do stick.


I will pay Kascar a compliment though, among my recently ordered DWF kit parts was the trans dipstick tube. The online listing said the one I ordered was a DWF tube which has a flared end for the sealing dipstick to seat into and the listing picture even confirmed. Well, a standard tube showed up. I called Kascar and they said they'd check into it. About 30 minutes later I got a call back that the tube I received was correct for the part number ordered but they admitted someone screwed up with the part listing labeling it as the DWF tube. They said they would send me the DWF tube but they didn't have any in stock so they were going to just issue me a refund and to not worry about returning the standard tube. Ended up finding the DWF tube on eBay for something like $30 compared to the $7ish the regular tube was listed as on Kascar.

New, modular slave cable is done!

Ryan,  Your truck is really looking good...It's come a long way since post #1.

You aren't kidding! And thank you!

In fact, going to be entering it into a car show (to benefit a local veterans home) this Saturday along with my buddy Dave's truck. Guess we'll see who's is better!

Still seems like I've got so much stuff to get done on it though...

I second that!  the truck is looking really good Ryan.  I will for sure be painting my truck perhaps in the spring, once my home projects die down.  It looks like your radio tray area is becoming populated, the way these trucks are meant to be.  I am 6'2" and I got bitched at for leaning way back in the turret once and accidentally toeing the power switch for all that mess of radio stuff.  I learned to keep my feet to myself after that.  

I like your cup holder setup and I may do something similar.  In the meantime I'm going to track down that basic radio tray and maybe a piece intended for mounting a GPS (DAGR?) that supposedly is good at holding a smartphone beside the driver.  If anyone has a radio tray laying around they don't want, let me know.  

I know a fella going to southern metals maybe in september that said he wouldn't mind picking me up a few tires on wheels and maybe an airlift bumper if they have some of those new loads of them that folks have been talking about.  I'm really excited about getting one of those, but I don't know if I'll do the rhino tire carrier on it yet.  If anyone makes the trip in the meantime let me know.  I'm right beside I75 as it passes Georgetown and then Lexington, and I wouldn't mind chipping in for the service.

I'm ordering some rapco 383 in spray cans so I can start on smaller accessories like the bows for the rear cover.  I'll be in the market for a like new or new two man soft top as well but I might as well wait until I've painted the whole truck to take the faded one off and replace it.

I checked out the 24v generic washer pump too, thanks for the advice.  If I can't troubleshoot this one I will go that route.

Pro tip.. know what way engages the E brake... in the military some new private kept the E brake on for like 2 miles and didnt know why the vehicle kept stopping.... flames started to drop down, brake fluid.

Ryan, so now that everything is painted when do you plan on installing the Eyecon lights you have?

My group might be able to assist whenever we have our next trip down planned. Of course, that's assuming SM ever gets any more inventory in...


I have heard of that happening as well with stuck e-brakes! A good reason to check them for proper function!


That's definitely on the short list just as soon as I get my cargo rack built since that's where all the light bars are going. I need to get with Dave's metal fab contact and have him work on some quotes for the cargo rack, overhead console, and possibly some aluminum rocker protection and GMV bed rails since I can't seem to find any.






On a side note, I was at a local community center's park and spotted a memorial I didn't know was there. I am just never over in this area of the county...












Anyone think they'd notice if I replaced it with a Deuce or a soft top HMMWV?


Okay, I'm probably going to hell for those evil thoughts...

Just found my new build goal!!!

Attached File

That's all of our goal. I would love to have the gun and the money to feed the gun. Heck I would just settle for the thermal sights.

But in reality, I do like the lights. I keep looking for the brackets to mount a 45" light bar to my rear hatch, but no one seems to have them only the light.

That's a whole lot of money in that pic!


Is that the Ibis Tek rear light? If so, you tried contacting them about one?

Barring that, that should be an insanely simple part for someone with a metal brake to fab up.

EUC approved yesterday (about a 10 week wait). Ordered a keyed ignition switch, Kascar grounding harness, battery adapter, and picked up a couple Optima Yellow Tops today. Now to get the recovery kit together and prepare for pickup!

Congrats and welcome to the club!

Let's see some pics!

I have tried contacting Ibis Tek numerous ways and no luck. I also went to the fab shops in my area, but due to all the jeep fabrication work and plant work, they want close to $200 for simple brackets which is as much as the light. They all claim the angle is what drives the price up which is pure bs, but they are not hurting for work at this time. So I keep waiting for a pair to pop up on ebay or one of the forums.

Maybe try getting in touch with user "ragman" on G503. He's the one that regularly buys batches of Ibis Tek bumpers direct from them so he has to have a reliable contact. He was talking about getting a buy together in May.

Looks like he had tan high backs around then too...

Who know, he may even have one kicking around his building he stores everything in. When I went up there to get my bumper from him, he had all sorts of odds and ends sitting around.

Here she is from the auction listing. More to follow once I get her home.

Nice!

Does it have the deep fording kit? Looks like you've got the snorkel bracket on the windshield...

Good eye. I bought it without realizing it, but a local HMMWV owner on SS I sent the auction link to thought so as well. A snorkel and tall tail pipe are on the wish list.

If it does, you should have a lever on the dash down by the e-brake handle.

Got any interior pics or a link to the listing?

The switch between the gas pedal and the e-brake?