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Posted: 9/30/2017 10:01:51 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By pumbaajk:
Thank you for all that information. I'm a new member on steel soldiers and trying to get as much information as possible gathered before my purchase. Likely next year some time. I'm not a mechanic and never claimed to be one but I figured this might be a good learning experience considering this doesn't take a BA in computer science to start working on. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By pumbaajk:
Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck:
If you're going to do a hard top, a helmet top like this model is going to be what you want: https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/102941/1987-AM-General-M998-Humvee-Helmet-top-hmmwv-_57-321766.JPG Otherwise if you want the open bed style, you'll have to go with an aftermarket solution unless either you can fabricate one or you know someone who can. There's a couple companies out there, like Plan B, that are making them. For a slantback to add on to a truck, be prepared to pay. A lot. Seems the tops are going in the neighborhood of $10k for a complete setup currently. A year ago they were $6-7k. Otherwise you could get one of the M1045s they're selling now but those go in the neighborhood of $16k-45k depending on condition. X-doors are going up in price as well since Southern Metals was a big source for them and their scrap contract is now done. Plan B makes some but not everyone is a fan of them. Once you take care of all the stuff your typical 20 year old truck needs like new hoses, new belts, new fluids, and replacement/repair of leaky seals you'll have a truck in good, solid operating condition. I've put about 4,500 miles on mine in the last year and 3 months with no issues except last year, an original cooling hose that developed a leak. Since then they were all replaced with new. Only thing I need to address is a rear pinion seal that leaks slightly. It might be a little slow but, the truck should be able to do that stock assuming you install an H1 hitch, which is what I'm in the middle of doing right now actually. The H1 hitch is rated at 1,000lb tongue weight and up to 10,000lbs. It's a substantial upgrade over the standard pintle hitch. Here's a couple pictures stolen from a SS member that show it nicely: https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/102941/2015080595141441-1-321817.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/102941/starter_008-321818.JPG This requires an airlift bumper be installed though! The hardest parts are drilling the bumper brackets for the brackets that attach at the ends of the receiver and installing the brackets to the crossmember/control arm bolts. I did the receiver mounting when I installed my airlift bumper and, since I haven't needed to tow anything, am just now getting around to finishing with installing the crossmember brackets and support arms. The control arm bolts are a pain to get out and put back in but it can be done with a crowbar and a jack. You need to upgrade the 3/4"-4.75" bolts to 5" long ones. It would be a good idea to make sure you have, at least, the 10k rated half shafts. When you do a Dmax swap, you'll definitely want to upgrade to the 12k so you could even do that straight off after you get it so you don't have to worry about that later. It involves not just swapping the shafts but also the spur gears in the geared hubs and a couple other odds and ends. Member @TexJeepTJ did a 12k upgrade to his truck and could probably advise on the details. A M998A1 or M1038A1 will have the 10k shafts. The M1123s come with the 12k running gear and have the benefit of a 4 speed transmission. The M1045 slantbacks have the same running gear as the M1123s. The standard M998s and M1038s will likely have the 7k shafts unless they were repaired or upgraded to 10k at some point. Upgraded springs might also be something to consider. Lots of seat options! I've seen seats from Jeeps to Chrysler Pacificas installed in these! If you go with a hard top or slantback, you'll definitely want A/C in Texas. The Red Dot A/C system is designed for the truck but the evaporator is a big unit that takes up a lot of interior space. The condenser side will mount on a slantback, helmet top, or 4dr hard top no problem though. There are some 24v universal A/C kits on eBay some of us have talked about that are reasonably priced but I don't know of anyone that's installed one and what's involved. The intercom setups are nice! If you don't need a rugged/waterproof setup, you can go with a much more inexpensive aircraft intercom setup and accomplish a lot of the same as the VIC systems. I think a HMMWV will definitely fit the bill for you so long as you don't mind turning a wrench!  I'm not a mechanic and never claimed to be one but I figured this might be a good learning experience considering this doesn't take a BA in computer science to start working on. They tear it down to the nuts and bolts, literally, and will then give you the specs on those bolts.
The hardest part is when you're doing something, like installing the H1 hitch, that isn't covered in the manuals. I did have to reach out to a SS member that had installed the same hitch on his for some fitment advice. That's where it's nice to have places like here, G503, and SS to reference or seek assistance. |
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Posted: 9/30/2017 10:08:09 PM EDT
[Last Edit: pumbaajk]
[#2]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Ryan_Ruck:
Fear not! If you keep it in stock form, the military TMs are your friend! They tear it down to the nuts and bolts, literally, and will then give you the specs on those bolts.
The hardest part is when you're doing something, like installing the H1 hitch, that isn't covered in the manuals. I did have to reach out to a SS member that had installed the same hitch on his for some fitment advice. That's where it's nice to have places like here, G503, and SS to reference or seek assistance. I'm seeing alot of trucks with less than 10k on the miles. Are these generally rebuilt units or do they really have less than 10k on the original components? Crap shoot? I really don't want to buy a unit that the gauge hasn't worked in 50k miles and get something that doesn't work. I know its something buying sight unseen you're risking. Alot of the units with pictures of the transmission/diffs/transfer cases all look fairly clean and new(ish). |
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TN, USA
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Posted: 9/30/2017 10:10:32 PM EDT
[#3]
To do a Dmax in a H1 will cost $50k+.
here's a taste of what's needed New or donor motor/tranny, radiator/inner cooler, motor/ tranny mounts, drive and half shafts, 12k running gear, body lift, wiring harness + many more things, you'll also need to detune it. |
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Posted: 9/30/2017 10:15:47 PM EDT
[Last Edit: pumbaajk]
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By JohnyRotten:
To do a Dmax in a H1 will cost $50k+. here's a taste of what's needed New or donor motor/tranny, radiator/inner cooler, motor/ tranny mounts, drive and half shafts, 12k running gear, body lift, wiring harness + many more things, you'll also need to detune it. I am actually not a fan of removing the EMP proof feature of this unit so there is that issue too...
ETA I'm guessing the diffs cant take the torque? |
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TN, USA
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Posted: 9/30/2017 11:40:05 PM EDT
[Last Edit: JohnyRotten]
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By pumbaajk:
Why would I need to detune it? I am actually not a fan of removing the EMP proof feature of this unit so there is that issue too...
ETA I'm guessing the diffs cant take the torque? The 2006 H1 Alpha 6.6L had only 300hp/520lbs/ft 2006 Chevy truck had 360hp/650lbs/ft Predator rates their conversions at 500-1000HP...depending on motor pkg...LOL my H1 has 195hp/430lbs/ft edit This was made by Blair (usedH1.com) here in Tn https://youtu.be/EDLxAm_fn2w |
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Posted: 10/1/2017 12:18:45 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By pumbaajk:
I do like to TMs for sure. I'm seeing alot of trucks with less than 10k on the miles. Are these generally rebuilt units or do they really have less than 10k on the original components? Crap shoot? I really don't want to buy a unit that the gauge hasn't worked in 50k miles and get something that doesn't work. I know its something buying sight unseen you're risking. Alot of the units with pictures of the transmission/diffs/transfer cases all look fairly clean and new(ish). Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By pumbaajk:
Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck:
Fear not! If you keep it in stock form, the military TMs are your friend! They tear it down to the nuts and bolts, literally, and will then give you the specs on those bolts.
The hardest part is when you're doing something, like installing the H1 hitch, that isn't covered in the manuals. I did have to reach out to a SS member that had installed the same hitch on his for some fitment advice. That's where it's nice to have places like here, G503, and SS to reference or seek assistance. I'm seeing alot of trucks with less than 10k on the miles. Are these generally rebuilt units or do they really have less than 10k on the original components? Crap shoot? I really don't want to buy a unit that the gauge hasn't worked in 50k miles and get something that doesn't work. I know its something buying sight unseen you're risking. Alot of the units with pictures of the transmission/diffs/transfer cases all look fairly clean and new(ish). A good rule of thumb is that if the truck has anywhere from 20-50k on the clock, there's a pretty decent chance it's accurate. On top of that, it was probably a truck that was liked and thus taken better care of in general. My truck had 38k on it when I got it. |
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KY, USA
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Posted: 10/1/2017 7:41:54 AM EDT
[#7]
hell, my a1 has over 50k on the speedo. its clean and hasnt shown any leaks yet. but then it has a gep 6.5 so its not like the engine is original and god knows what else isnt.
its a shame about the expense of the slantbacks, i hope that stuff gets surplused en masse someday. but i remember as a young troop I coveted any chance to be assigned a softop truck cause it was more comfortable and easier to see out of. not to mention, typically doorless. i finally got around to installing my radio power cable, and the vic-3 parts are slowly trickling in as i can find them. i do have a question regarding an mx7777; i had figired the vic-3 would be a standalone installation straight from the batteries but i stumbled onto a thread that makes a good point about power fluctuation damaging equipment. did you guys go from batteries to mx7777 to your mcs? or does the vic-3 have some protection built in? |
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Posted: 10/1/2017 9:08:15 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By JohnyRotten:
Correct The 2006 H1 Alpha 6.6L had only 300hp/520lbs/ft 2006 Chevy truck had 360hp/650lbs/ft Predator rates their conversions at 500-1000HP...depending on motor pkg...LOL my H1 has 195hp/430lbs/ft edit This was made by Blair (usedH1.com) here in Tn https://youtu.be/EDLxAm_fn2w He did a up armored 1025 that looks badass! |
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Posted: 10/1/2017 9:24:00 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Aguas:
hell, my a1 has over 50k on the speedo. its clean and hasnt shown any leaks yet. but then it has a gep 6.5 so its not like the engine is original and god knows what else isnt. its a shame about the expense of the slantbacks, i hope that stuff gets surplused en masse someday. but i remember as a young troop I coveted any chance to be assigned a softop truck cause it was more comfortable and easier to see out of. not to mention, typically doorless. i finally got around to installing my radio power cable, and the vic-3 parts are slowly trickling in as i can find them. i do have a question regarding an mx7777; i had figired the vic-3 would be a standalone installation straight from the batteries but i stumbled onto a thread that makes a good point about power fluctuation damaging equipment. did you guys go from batteries to mx7777 to your mcs? or does the vic-3 have some protection built in? Can you forward me that link about the radio install? |
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Posted: 10/1/2017 11:32:14 AM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Aguas:
hell, my a1 has over 50k on the speedo. its clean and hasnt shown any leaks yet. but then it has a gep 6.5 so its not like the engine is original and god knows what else isnt. its a shame about the expense of the slantbacks, i hope that stuff gets surplused en masse someday. but i remember as a young troop I coveted any chance to be assigned a softop truck cause it was more comfortable and easier to see out of. not to mention, typically doorless. i finally got around to installing my radio power cable, and the vic-3 parts are slowly trickling in as i can find them. i do have a question regarding an mx7777; i had figired the vic-3 would be a standalone installation straight from the batteries but i stumbled onto a thread that makes a good point about power fluctuation damaging equipment. did you guys go from batteries to mx7777 to your mcs? or does the vic-3 have some protection built in? Truthfully, I'm not familiar with the MX-7777 but it looks like older tech, like more for the VIC-1. |
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Posted: 10/1/2017 9:34:03 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Aguas:
i finally got around to installing my radio power cable, and the vic-3 parts are slowly trickling in as i can find them. i do have a question regarding an mx7777; i had figired the vic-3 would be a standalone installation straight from the batteries but i stumbled onto a thread that makes a good point about power fluctuation damaging equipment. did you guys go from batteries to mx7777 to your mcs? or does the vic-3 have some protection built in? I don't think there is anything wrong with using one just probably not necessary if you use a power block like Ryan did. You can find them on ePay every so often as stand alone items separate from the trays. I picked up a couple from beltfed34. If you use a MX-7777 directly to a stand alone VIC setup I'm pretty sure you will have to make your own cable. Same, even if you just tie the VIC directly into the batteries, but then you would probably be hanging out as far as power surges. The only power cables I've seen are for tying into a radio tray power block. When I was looking at the MX-7777 I mainly wanted it for the ability to throw a switch and cut power to all the radio equipment. I found a different switch that did this better for my setups. If you use the MX-7777 I would recommend still using a radio tray power block. That way you can easily find all the correct cables and don't have to worry about reverse polarity issues. |
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Posted: 10/1/2017 10:23:17 PM EDT
[#12]
Finished my H1 hitch install earlier. It is definitely one solid hitch setup!
Getting the passenger side bolt out wasn't too bad even though it was a pain. The driver's side was pretty thoroughly rusted inside the bushing and needed a good beating and lots of PB Blaster. It did come out eventually though. Once the bolts were out from even the first hole on the crossmember, the control arms shift just enough you can't get the new one in the bushing and can't get the old one back through if you wanted to. You have to take a crowbar and lever it against the crossmember. I was working solo and used a second floor jack to put pressure on the crowbar. Removal and installation of the bolts is done with the rear off the ground however, the bolts should only be tightened and torqued to 260 ft lbs with the truck on the ground. Needless to say, the torque multiplier came in handy again! Definitely glad that's done with. It's been nagging me since I got the receiver installed with the bumper. |
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KY, USA
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Posted: 10/2/2017 5:32:42 AM EDT
[#13]
yeah, thats a solid bumper setup now if i do say so myself. did you get down there and paint your A arms and frame some? they look fresher than a m998 usually does.
as for the vic-3 i will definitely be using the power block to mcs setup. all this time i had imagined the power cable would plug right into the mcs but didnt have one in front of me. beltfed has a few sincgars trays with block for 30 bucks plus shipping right now, but no guarantee on the power block being functional. shiny newer ones are anywhere from $80-300. if they had a bad fuse id say i can handle it but broken receptacles are a different story. i feel like ive seen plenty of radio to mcs cables out there so thats a good thing. the 2 foot highway cable from mcs to ffcs, thats a different story. last night the wife and I were coming back from a hipster brewery and it was finally cold enough to try out the heater; worked okay until the fan just stopped. once we parked i flipped the switch a few times and gave a palm smack above the heater controls and it came back on. time to troubleshoot that before the real cold gets here! |
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Posted: 10/2/2017 10:35:43 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Aguas:
yeah, thats a solid bumper setup now if i do say so myself. did you get down there and paint your A arms and frame some? they look fresher than a m998 usually does. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Aguas:
yeah, thats a solid bumper setup now if i do say so myself. did you get down there and paint your A arms and frame some? they look fresher than a m998 usually does. Originally Posted By Aguas:
as for the vic-3 i will definitely be using the power block to mcs setup. all this time i had imagined the power cable would plug right into the mcs but didnt have one in front of me. beltfed has a few sincgars trays with block for 30 bucks plus shipping right now, but no guarantee on the power block being functional. shiny newer ones are anywhere from $80-300. if they had a bad fuse id say i can handle it but broken receptacles are a different story. Originally Posted By Aguas:
i feel like ive seen plenty of radio to mcs cables out there so thats a good thing. the 2 foot highway cable from mcs to ffcs, thats a different story. Originally Posted By Aguas:
last night the wife and I were coming back from a hipster brewery and it was finally cold enough to try out the heater; worked okay until the fan just stopped. once we parked i flipped the switch a few times and gave a palm smack above the heater controls and it came back on. time to troubleshoot that before the real cold gets here! 
I need to check mine out too. My blower isn't running since I reassembled after painting... |
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Posted: 10/2/2017 12:18:50 PM EDT
[Last Edit: jake-cutter]
[#15]
I actually have my radio tray out for the engine work so I took a pic. I originally looked for a MX7777 also as a way to cut the power off to the radio tray to prevent surges when starting. But as others have posted, the MX7777 is a little dated and large for these vehicles. What I did find was a Harris battery disconnect switch (P/N 11080-3980-01 (don't buy this one its overpriced)) This cuts the power to the MT6352 power block. As for the power block, just get the $30 unit from beltfed on ebay. All you are doing is removing the block. Then everything else is plug and play once you get the right cables. Right now the hardest cable to find is the power cable.
So from right to left, you would have the cable from the battery to the switch, switch to the 6352 power block, VIC 3 to power block. And then all of the loose cables and adapters and everything else gets pushed under the radio tray. I think Ryan used double sided tape and I plan on doing the same or Velcro. Attached File |
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TN, USA
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Posted: 10/2/2017 4:05:42 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Ryan_Ruck:
Finished my H1 hitch install earlier. It is definitely one solid hitch setup! http://transasianaxis.com/photos/i.php?/upload/2017/10/01/20171001203831-c617fc30-me.jpg http://transasianaxis.com/photos/i.php?/upload/2017/10/01/20171001203833-b9fe0617-me.jpg
Getting the passenger side bolt out wasn't too bad even though it was a pain. The driver's side was pretty thoroughly rusted inside the bushing and needed a good beating and lots of PB Blaster. It did come out eventually though. Once the bolts were out from even the first hole on the crossmember, the control arms shift just enough you can't get the new one in the bushing and can't get the old one back through if you wanted to. You have to take a crowbar and lever it against the crossmember. I was working solo and used a second floor jack to put pressure on the crowbar. Removal and installation of the bolts is done with the rear off the ground however, the bolts should only be tightened and torqued to 260 ft lbs with the truck on the ground. Needless to say, the torque multiplier came in handy again! Definitely glad that's done with. It's been nagging me since I got the receiver installed with the bumper.  2017-10-02_03-01-51 by Johnny Rotten, on Flickr
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Posted: 10/2/2017 7:52:55 PM EDT
[#17]
I received the BAE Check 6 Tail light today. Looks new and never installed. Hoping to find the control unit and then to figure out the pin diagram (or send it to Ryan to figure out). Also the lens is concave which is why the pics on the listing looked off.
Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 10/2/2017 9:21:46 PM EDT
[#18]
For the main contributors of the thread, what is yalls opinion on Plan B Supply? You can email me or IM me as to not clutter up this awesome thread.
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Posted: 10/2/2017 9:35:35 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By pumbaajk:
For the main contributors of the thread, what is yalls opinion on Plan B Supply? You can email me or IM me as to not clutter up this awesome thread. |
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Posted: 10/2/2017 9:54:33 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By jake-cutter:
They seem hit or miss. I would rather buy a regular hmmwv from gov planet and make it into a configuration of my own using mainly original parts. |
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Posted: 10/2/2017 10:05:40 PM EDT
[#21]
Did my first towing with the new hitch!
I really need an M1101/1102... 
Borrowing my buddy Dave's to drop off some scrap at the recycler. Drove just like it wasn't even back there. At least until it came to a long, steep hill near my house. EGTs were running a bit high. I think I need to turn the pump back a little. I had to stop by my local Sam's Club on my way home from picking up the trailer and I parked out at the back of the lot with the only other car being a Corvette who had also parked out there but, I left him and myself plenty of room. Came out and found this anal wart who just had to park between us... 
There was plenty of parking much closer and they didn't know the Corvette owner as he left while I was loading my stuff. Some people... Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By JohnyRotten:
your missing the rear tank...H1er https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4461/36750210144_8b9fa51b0d_k.jpg2017-10-02_03-01-51 by Johnny Rotten, on Flickr Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By JohnyRotten:
your missing the rear tank...H1er https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4461/36750210144_8b9fa51b0d_k.jpg2017-10-02_03-01-51 by Johnny Rotten, on Flickr 
Originally Posted By jake-cutter:
I received the BAE Check 6 Tail light today. Looks new and never installed. Hoping to find the control unit and then to figure out the pin diagram (or send it to Ryan to figure out). Also the lens is concave which is why the pics on the listing looked off. [url]https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/86875/IMG_20171002_142231_resized_20171002_022633819[1016]-323070.JPG[/url] [url]https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/86875/IMG_20171002_142239_resized_20171002_022635050[1017]-323071.JPG[/url] [url]https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/86875/IMG_20171002_142301_resized_20171002_022636215[1018]-323072.JPG[/url] [url]https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/86875/IMG_20171002_142317_resized_20171002_022649337[1019]-323073.JPG[/url]  Attached FileCan you open the housing or is it sealed? Should be pretty easy to figure out the pinout from there... Originally Posted By jake-cutter:
Originally Posted By pumbaajk:
For the main contributors of the thread, what is yalls opinion on Plan B Supply? You can email me or IM me as to not clutter up this awesome thread. I do think they have their place for folks that want to enjoy the truck but may not have the mechanical aptitude or facilities to do the work. But, if you have a slight bit of common sense, aren't afraid to crack open a TM, and are ready to bust some knuckles (I managed 3 putting in the H1 hitch before I decided gloves were a good idea! ), I'd rather do all my own work. Personally, I hate having others do things for me. I'd much rather learn a new skill than just hand money to someone. That said, I can admit my limits (like welding, for now).
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Posted: 10/2/2017 10:33:36 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Ryan_Ruck:
Did my first towing with the new hitch! http://transasianaxis.com/photos/i.php?/upload/2017/10/02/20171002213536-70d0ac35-me.jpg I really need an M1101/1102...
Borrowing my buddy Dave's to drop off some scrap at the recycler. Drove just like it wasn't even back there. At least until it came to a long, steep hill near my house. EGTs were running a bit high. I think I need to turn the pump back a little. I had to stop by my local Sam's Club on my way home from picking up the trailer and I parked out at the back of the lot with the only other car being a Corvette who had also parked out there but, I left him and myself plenty of room. Came out and found this anal wart who just had to park between us...
http://transasianaxis.com/photos/i.php?/upload/2017/10/02/20171002213539-13068763-me.jpg There was plenty of parking much closer and they didn't know the Corvette owner as he left while I was loading my stuff. Some people... Haha! Having the aux tank would definitely be awesome but, don't forget, I'm sticking a rear mounted winch in that spot.
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/102941/bender_neat-323152.JPG Can you open the housing or is it sealed? Should be pretty easy to figure out the pinout from there... I'm with Jake. One ARFCOMmer/SS member got his Plan B truck with a painted engine bay, incorrect and dead batteries, and missing wiper arms. He didn't mind too much but, to me, that's unacceptable workmanship. It looked pretty nice otherwise but, if they do that, what else did they not take care of? I do think they have their place for folks that want to enjoy the truck but may not have the mechanical aptitude or facilities to do the work. But, if you have a slight bit of common sense, aren't afraid to crack open a TM, and are ready to bust some knuckles (I managed 3 putting in the H1 hitch before I decided gloves were a good idea! ), I'd rather do all my own work. Personally, I hate having others do things for me. I'd much rather learn a new skill than just hand money to someone. That said, I can admit my limits (like welding, for now). |
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Posted: 10/2/2017 10:36:10 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By pumbaajk:
Yall are awesome and thanks for all the help. I'm glad yall took the plunge so I could learn from yall. Before an auction that I want to purchase something in, do yall mind if I shoot yall a PM and have you look over some of the stuff I'm interested in. Yall know what yall are looking at more than me and can spot problems way better than myself. |
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Posted: 10/2/2017 10:44:41 PM EDT
[#24]
The video below is a basic intro into the Vic 3 lite. The guy has other vids and in one he has the ac/dc box that I would like to find and posted about in the past.
 Intro to the VIC-3 Lite Intercom - See Description for Build List |
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Posted: 10/3/2017 4:54:07 PM EDT
[#25]
My apologies Gents. I remembered wrong about the power block having a fuse.
The fuse is in the radio AM-7239 adapter. The power block on the MT-6352 base only has wires and a small board with a module attached that I don't know what the function is.  Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 10/4/2017 10:57:25 AM EDT
[#26]
 6.5 DIESEL ENGINE - HOW TO BOMB PROOF IT Yalls opinions on this? Minus the programming at the end, does this apply to the hmmwv? |
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KY, USA
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Posted: 10/4/2017 8:28:01 PM EDT
[#27]
im getting ever closer to all the parts of my vic-3 and ive been driving around for a week with my a2 bumper. i suppose its time to school up on whats necessary for a 4 speed conversion.
the few threads i glanced at were above my paygrade but there is plenty of info out there already so i wont waste anyones time with questions just yet. but without knowing much about it yet, i do know that with SM not providing drivetrains the parts must be getting more difficult to find. and Ryan, that is the sharpest and newest looking m998 out there. i take it your endgame is a GMV turbo truck? |
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Posted: 10/4/2017 8:38:13 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Aguas:
im getting ever closer to all the parts of my vic-3 and ive been driving around for a week with my a2 bumper. i suppose its time to school up on whats necessary for a 4 speed conversion. |
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KY, USA
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Posted: 10/4/2017 9:49:18 PM EDT
[#29]
eh, i found a crewbox elsewhere but the mcs doesnt wrap up until tomorrow. like it has been said on here, the price they started the auction at is probably the high end of what its worth. we will see how it goes, i have a feeling people swoop in at the last second to win these things.
the sincgars mount is on the way and i still cant find a highway cable for mcs to crewbox. i may have the pn wrong but i think its cx-13470. i dont have the proper mount bracket that spans the radio tray legs and faces forward for the boxes to bolt to, but i have a lower shelf with identical bolt pattern that i may set the boxes on in the meantime. the controls wont be real accessible but it would work. |
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Posted: 10/5/2017 4:31:36 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By pumbaajk:
 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GLLtpx34lCk
Yalls opinions on this? Minus the programming at the end, does this apply to the hmmwv? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By pumbaajk:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GLLtpx34lCk
Yalls opinions on this? Minus the programming at the end, does this apply to the hmmwv? Originally Posted By Aguas:
im getting ever closer to all the parts of my vic-3 and ive been driving around for a week with my a2 bumper. i suppose its time to school up on whats necessary for a 4 speed conversion. the few threads i glanced at were above my paygrade but there is plenty of info out there already so i wont waste anyones time with questions just yet. but without knowing much about it yet, i do know that with SM not providing drivetrains the parts must be getting more difficult to find. and Ryan, that is the sharpest and newest looking m998 out there. i take it your endgame is a GMV turbo truck?  I don't know though, there's a lot of really great looking trucks out there like Lawman's GMV much earlier in the thread.
And yeah, you're correct. GMV style (with my own personal twist), turbo truck is what I'm going for. For the 4 speed conversion, as I understand it, you will need a 4wd 4L80E, new trans support, TCM (apparently the same as the civi TCM but the mil one comes in a special housing with appropriate cannon plug), new correct length mid prop shaft, new correct length rear prop shaft, throttle position sensor assembly, and a wiring harness. I don't know if your t-case needs to be the 242 model or if it works with the 218... Regardless, the late style (with blue bands on the cooling loop outlets) 242 is a good upgrade to have. With the wiring harness the only turnkey solution is, as far as I know, the A2 body harness with is easily over $1k but, there is a member on SS that has custom made his own independent trans only harness which seems like the easiest way to skin that cat. I could be missing something on all of that though but, that's what I know. Maybe @Lawman734 could shed light on any additional details I missed as he has done the 4 speed upgrade to one of his trucks. And speaking of GMV trucks... Is anyone else watching that new CBS show SEAL Team? Looks like they pay a good attention to detail on it. Last night's show actually had the team getting picked up by an uparmored truck and a pretty decent looking GMV! Not just plain, soft skin HMMWVs like most shows would have. I'll get some screen shots later. Thought that was kind of cool! |
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GA, USA
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Posted: 10/5/2017 5:08:33 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Lawman734]
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Ryan_Ruck:
Haha! Thanks! I don't know though, there's a lot of really great looking trucks out there like Lawman's GMV much earlier in the thread.
For the 4 speed conversion, as I understand it, you will need a 4wd 4L80E, new trans support, TCM (apparently the same as the civi TCM but the mil one comes in a special housing with appropriate cannon plug), new correct length mid prop shaft, new correct length rear prop shaft, throttle position sensor assembly, and a wiring harness. I don't know if your t-case needs to be the 242 model or if it works with the 218... Regardless, the late style (with blue bands on the cooling loop outlets) 242 is a good upgrade to have. And speaking of GMV trucks... Is anyone else watching that new CBS show SEAL Team? Looks like they pay a good attention to detail on it. Last night's show actually had the team getting picked up by an uparmored truck and a pretty decent looking GMV! Not just plain, soft skin HMMWVs like most shows would have. I'll get some screen shots later. Thought that was kind of cool! What Ryan said covers pretty much everything - to do it to MIL-SPEC is not a cheap proposition. My understanding is that you can also put a 4L80 in with a compu-shift or something similar, which will give you the capability - even if it isn't with the MIL-SPEC harnesses, etc. The other option is to build up a 700R4 transmission. They're generally not as strength rated as a 4L80, but they'll do it. I heard that there is 1 small part that's needed that apparently isn't made anymore. Do your research, but if you can find this part - you can do a 4-speed conversion without having the electronic aspect. As for GMV trucks......the shows are fixing to get better. I've got on very good authority that while he wasn't supposed to part those trucks out - I've been told that several people that provide vehicles for the entertainment industry were able to talk SM into full kits. I'm personally aware of one. It's BS but it is what it is at this point since they no longer have the contract. Anyway - I thought I'd add another pic of my GMV since resurfacing the doors and giving them fresh paint. 
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Posted: 10/5/2017 5:34:29 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Lawman734:
As for GMV trucks......the shows are fixing to get better. I've got on very good authority that while he wasn't supposed to part those trucks out - I've been told that several people that provide vehicles for the entertainment industry were able to talk SM into full kits. I'm personally aware of one. It's BS but it is what it is at this point since they no longer have the contract. I know for a fact one of the last trucks they ran through was a contact maintenance truck with the full maintenance body in the bed. I found out about it when getting some pics from a contact I have down there. I asked about the rear half doors on it being available since they were hinged with latches and the whole bit but he told me those had already been sold with the maintenance body. I don't recall seeing any maintenance bodies advertised by SM... Like you said, oh well... At least the GMV parts will still be out there. Better than going through the shredder. |
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KY, USA
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Posted: 10/5/2017 5:44:59 PM EDT
[#33]
thanks for the info fellas. ive never gotten into the drivetrain of anything so i never planned on upgrading but its apparent this has become my weekend driver more than just a collectable that sits in the garage.
im sticking with the 6.5 gep that it came with so no ECV setup for me, but id loooove to knock these rpms down. i got to do alot of 55mph driving to get anywhere around here. the auction on those intercom pieces closed this morning, the ffcs brought a premium so im glad i went elsewhere. the mcs/l i was going to bid on right at the end and the time countdown on the website ended up being wrong. i blame my slowed mobile internet so i guess it didnt refresh but continued to count down to zero. i sat and watched and didnt bid, felt like a pretty big idiot right after that. |
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Posted: 10/5/2017 6:16:57 PM EDT
[#34]
Here's some screenshots from SEAL Team:
Looks like on the GMV they used troop seat pieces and some wood for the bed rails but, not like the parts are super common and it looks good enough on screen for the quick periods you see it. Also looks like they bolted a rear jerry can carrier to the driver's side fender area. I think it's got the hood mounted tool kit too and definitely has an Ibis Tek front bumper. Oh, and someone is going to have a problem using their pano NODs...
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Posted: 10/5/2017 6:32:46 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Ryan_Ruck]
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Lawman734:
What Ryan said covers pretty much everything - to do it to MIL-SPEC is not a cheap proposition. My understanding is that you can also put a 4L80 in with a compu-shift or something similar, which will give you the capability - even if it isn't with the MIL-SPEC harnesses, etc. The other option is to build up a 700R4 transmission. They're generally not as strength rated as a 4L80, but they'll do it. I heard that there is 1 small part that's needed that apparently isn't made anymore. Do your research, but if you can find this part - you can do a 4-speed conversion without having the electronic aspect. Also, there are "built" 700R4s out there but, with the power we're talking about on these trucks (especially the NA ones) I don't know how much of a concern that really is despite what some folks say. ETA: And I forgot, you need a 4 speed shifter assembly. Since SM has dried up, prices on those have gotten stupid. I've seen $700-$800 for new ones on eBay. Guess I should have snagged one for $300 when I was at SM...
Dave and I, however, are going to be investigating modification of the existing 3 speed assembly with some additional gates to accommodate the Park and Overdrive positions, to see if that is a viable option. He's told me that is doable on some classic Chevrolet trans shifter assemblies. |
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KY, USA
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Posted: 10/5/2017 7:21:25 PM EDT
[#36]
i was just looking at the shifter assemblies. $800 is a little tough to swallow. i found a used one that is missing the button on top of the shifter for alot less, but i don't know what important parts of it could also be worn out.
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GA, USA
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Posted: 10/5/2017 7:22:31 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Ryan_Ruck:
It dawned on me after thinking about it, I believe it's the trans kickdown bracket/assembly. I'm pretty sure my buddy Dave has one I can get a pic of if anyone needs it. Also, there are "built" 700R4s out there but, with the power we're talking about on these trucks (especially the NA ones) I don't know how much of a concern that really is despite what some folks say. The GMV's aren't bad - but again, not quite there. I love the late armored turret on the unarmored truck though. 
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GA, USA
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Posted: 10/5/2017 7:56:06 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Aguas:
thanks for the info fellas. ive never gotten into the drivetrain of anything so i never planned on upgrading but its apparent this has become my weekend driver more than just a collectable that sits in the garage. im sticking with the 6.5 gep that it came with so no ECV setup for me, but id loooove to knock these rpms down. i got to do alot of 55mph driving to get anywhere around here. I've got 4L80's in both of my trucks now and while I wouldn't say they're over-rated by any means, I think there are a number of folks that think they're going to have an 80+ mph freeway cruiser and I just don't feel that's the case - not that you've suggested that. 75-80mph in a 4L80 equipped HMMWV feels like 60-65 does in a 3 speed. I've found that both are rather content at 65mph or lower- much higher and I feel you're pushing things. Of course tire and suspension upgrades would likely change that, but I'm keeping mine as stock military vehicles. Even though I have the ECV hood and snout on mine, I've kept the stock 6.5NA in the GMV. I figured there was no point in getting rid a perfectly good engine, so I just did the transmission upgrade. |
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KY, USA
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Posted: 10/6/2017 5:32:15 AM EDT
[#39]
oh i will be happy being able to hold 60 and if i can maintain 65 for short jaunts on the interstate that would be fantastic! as it stands i stay at 55mph and i stay off I-75 entirely.
so i have the next solid year of truck work planned out for me it looks like; finish the intercom, 4 speed conversion and paint. if x doors ever show up again id love to grab some fronts. im trying to not get bored and decide to switch to a 4-man setup. I like the 2 man just fine, i really do! but man oh man the ability to have 4 doors if i wanted them, thats tough. not to mention ive never seen a tire carrier on a 2 door, so that fact is saving me some money at the moment. |
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Posted: 10/6/2017 9:49:42 AM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Aguas:
oh i will be happy being able to hold 60 and if i can maintain 65 for short jaunts on the interstate that would be fantastic! as it stands i stay at 55mph and i stay off I-75 entirely. so i have the next solid year of truck work planned out for me it looks like; finish the intercom, 4 speed conversion and paint. if x doors ever show up again id love to grab some fronts. im trying to not get bored and decide to switch to a 4-man setup. I like the 2 man just fine, i really do! but man oh man the ability to have 4 doors if i wanted them, thats tough. not to mention ive never seen a tire carrier on a 2 door, so that fact is saving me some money at the moment. |
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KY, USA
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Posted: 10/9/2017 5:40:32 AM EDT
[#41]
i think i found some newer style gas tanks for pretty cheap, are they actually required for the 4l80e swap?
a thread i found seems to say it just swaps right over on an m998 and the old sender etc just pops in. havent checked which transfer case i have yet but from what little ive read so far it seems that the np242 is the correct unit to mate to the 4l80. heres hoping my A1 has one already. |
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Posted: 10/9/2017 1:45:07 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Aguas:
i think i found some newer style gas tanks for pretty cheap, are they actually required for the 4l80e swap? a thread i found seems to say it just swaps right over on an m998 and the old sender etc just pops in. havent checked which transfer case i have yet but from what little ive read so far it seems that the np242 is the correct unit to mate to the 4l80. heres hoping my A1 has one already. You will have to move more than the sender to the new tank, you'll have to move the whole access panel that the sender is attached to to the new tank. Hardest part is getting to the filler hose clamps. An electric driver with 2' extension is helpful. Very highly recommend replacing the hose that goes between the tank and filler neck with new. It probably doesn't have much life left (unless it was replaced at some point for leaking) and replacing it will save you any leak headaches from it in the future. I also replaced my regular hose clamps with t-bolt clamps. Your existing tank baffle setup will not swap over to the A2 directly as there are slight dimensional changes but, if you want, can trim them down to fit. The tank I got looked nearly identical to the one in my A1 but, it was indeed changed enough I had to trim the baffles to install them. If you've got any pics from your listing handy GP took of the t-case you can ID it from that. Also, does it have a t-case lock light? If it has a t-case lock light it is a 242. Any further ID will require closer inspection... You might also find this writeup useful. |
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KY, USA
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Posted: 10/9/2017 2:27:22 PM EDT
[#43]
ill check that out when i get in tonight. i may do the gastank upgrade anyways. or at least snag the parts for now.
242 might be standard on A1s or it could have been swapped by the gov, cause i know without getting under there that i have the t-lock light by the lever. that is good news! i took the plunge the other night on a 4 speed shift assembly so its time to get studied up and hunt down the rest of it. i dont have time to do the swap now i just had a bad feeling the prices were going to explode with no more stock being introduced atm. |
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Posted: 10/9/2017 3:58:14 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Aguas:
ill check that out when i get in tonight. i may do the gastank upgrade anyways. or at least snag the parts for now. 242 might be standard on A1s or it could have been swapped by the gov, cause i know without getting under there that i have the t-lock light by the lever. that is good news! i took the plunge the other night on a 4 speed shift assembly so its time to get studied up and hunt down the rest of it. i dont have time to do the swap now i just had a bad feeling the prices were going to explode with no more stock being introduced atm. That said, there's 2 versions of the 242. The original 27 spline, 3 bolt extension housing: 
And the stronger 32 spline, 4 bolt extension housing: 
I'm pretty sure that even if it is a 4 bolt, that doesn't mean it's necessarily the improved version not prone to The Vampire. You'll have to actually check and see if it has blue bands on at least one of the cooling loop outputs for that. |
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Posted: 10/9/2017 7:03:28 PM EDT
[#45]
Someone on Steel Soldiers got an awesome deal on a Vic 3 Lite MCS (aka Control Indicator) for $30.
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KY, USA
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Posted: 10/10/2017 5:48:17 AM EDT
[#46]
oh my god!
well i have another chance to not flub that auction for another mcs this week cause the seller is selling another one. 13470 cords are still MIA. popular auction site still has the same raggedy 25 footers and a 16 footer that have been listed for a month or more. once i get an mcs ill have everything to turn the system on except that cable so i may have to grab the 16' and tuck it behind the bracket. im supposed to be an electrician so i considered maybe shortening the cable in the middle and soldering and heatshrink and what not but that would end up one thick ugly and stiff knot and i might be out $40 for a cable that used to work. havent looked at my t-case yet but i bet i dont have the newer blue band cooling loop, unless thats something they had been retrofitting for awhile in the .mil. kind of curious as to when they stopped using m998s in the guard. few years ago? 5? i ran into them sparingly in deployment training in the active air force back in 09/10. didnt know it at the time but i do remember seeing am general on some tailgates and some trucks that didnt have 'park'. did anyone see that box the guy at g503 made for vic systems? it allows your phone to plug into the system and be recognized as a headset, or something along those lines. he made about 20 of them but i hope he does another run. |
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GA, USA
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Posted: 10/10/2017 8:58:38 AM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Aguas:
havent looked at my t-case yet but i bet i dont have the newer blue band cooling loop, unless thats something they had been retrofitting for awhile in the .mil. kind of curious as to when they stopped using m998s in the guard. few years ago? 5? i ran into them sparingly in deployment training in the active air force back in 09/10. didnt know it at the time but i do remember seeing am general on some tailgates and some trucks that didnt have 'park'. |
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Posted: 10/10/2017 11:01:41 AM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Aguas:
did anyone see that box the guy at g503 made for vic systems? it allows your phone to plug into the system and be recognized as a headset, or something along those lines. he made about 20 of them but i hope he does another run. |
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Posted: 10/10/2017 10:14:58 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Aguas:
havent looked at my t-case yet but i bet i dont have the newer blue band cooling loop, unless thats something they had been retrofitting for awhile in the .mil. kind of curious as to when they stopped using m998s in the guard. few years ago? 5? i ran into them sparingly in deployment training in the active air force back in 09/10. didnt know it at the time but i do remember seeing am general on some tailgates and some trucks that didnt have 'park'. did anyone see that box the guy at g503 made for vic systems? it allows your phone to plug into the system and be recognized as a headset, or something along those lines. he made about 20 of them but i hope he does another run. Like Jake mentioned we both got the VIC adapter boxes. They work great! I've used my phone hands free with my VIC system and it works as advertised and, I've had no problem listening to music from my phone. It's a great solution! As an aside, I drive by a couple OH and KY guard depots fairly regularly and I've still seen a number of 998 soft skins still in service as well. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 10/11/2017 2:26:44 PM EDT
[#50]
Hey guys,
Long time lurker on the forum here, I finally registered so I can reply to this thread. I am seriously considering picking up a surplus HMMWV from GovPlanet. I've been watching auctions, joined Steel Soldiers and G503, and I'm reading TMs in my spare time. But I wanted some real world impressions and opinions from owners. How often do you drive your trucks and do any of you use them as a primary vehicle? If I buy one, it wouldn't be my only vehicle.... but it would be my only truck. My current truck has served me well for many years, but being a half-ton 2wd is has been seriously inadequate on numerous occasions... most notably during or after hurricanes. My wife and I have a large piece of land outside of La Grange that my current truck can't even get to as there is no road to the property (she inherited it). My other vehicle is my hot rod... which is my fair weather driver. I have no desire whatsoever to spend 50K+ on a newer diesel truck nor do I want to try and restore an old rustbucket Jeep... my thinking, and it may be flawed, is that is would be easier to knock some of the rough edges off of Humvee instead. I know they are loud, slow and leaky. I've gotten the chance to ride in a HMMWV, but not drive one. I didn't find riding in the back seat of a 4-door soft top to be that bad at all. Doing my own maintenance is no issue, I've been wrenching on projects for 20 years... and I have a 40x60 shop at my disposal. I'm in Texas, so the title doesn't seem to be as much of an issue here (from what I've read so far). What do you guys think? |
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