Just a warning, I'm going to be as detailed as I can so this will be a long read!


After I posted I had just purchased a surplus HMMWV in this thread, at the request of Schott8283 I'm starting this thread to lay out what I've gone through in the purchase process for people who may be interested in purchasing one too, with the hope that people who know more than I do chime in and fill in any blanks I'm sure to leave.

Here's my truck I just bought:




















She's a 1994 M998A1 with a 6.2L diesel with 38,669 on the odometer. She runs and is intact from what I can see in the pictures (minus a broken mirror). There were 50 bids on my truck with me winning it at $9,500, up from a $5,000 opening bid.


First where do you find HMMWVs for sale? Just head on over to GovPlanet, the company awarded the contract by the US Government to sell off these trucks, to find the current inventory. From what I have heard, this was a first batch of roughly 4,000 trucks released by the government to see how sales would go. Sales started about a year ago and they are more than half way to 4,000 (2,600ish as of my posting this).

From there you will be able to narrow the inventory down by state and auction end time. Auctions are held weekly on Wednesday. Inventory listed is typically out two weeks.

Definitely read through the FAQ thoroughly. It will answer almost any question you've got. That said I did run into a mistake in it that has yet to be corrected by GovPlanet that I will detail below.


Now you'll have to decide if you want to buy something close enough to pick up yourself or if you want to have it shipped to you.

Shipping will, of course, cost more the further the truck is from you. That said, picking it up yourself can be cheaper if you live close to where it is located or don't mind a little travel. My truck I just purcased is about 4.5 hours from me so I'm going to be making a day of picking it up with my brother and a friend.

If shipping it, you will have the option to get an estimate from Veritread on shipping it from where it is located to you. This can found on every truck's listing on the right hand side.

If you are picking it up yourself, you can either trailer it or flat tow it.

Trailering is preferable from what I've read from people that have done both. Flat towing can be a bit of a task as the HMMWVs can manhandle a truck that is not up to the task. To flat tow it safely you'll need the military tow bar setup designed for the truck. The complete tow bar package will likely cost you $400-$600 if you can't find one to borrow. You'll also have to disconnect the half shafts (shafts that connect from the differentials to the geared hubs that drive the wheels, also known as portal axles) to safely tow it without damaging the transmission or transfer case. Just putting it in neutral will not suffice as either the transmission or transfer case will not properly lubricate itself. I can't recall which off the top of my head without looking it up but, trust me.

If you want to trailer it but don't have a trailer you can rent a U-Haul flat bed transporter trailer. It must be one of the newer models (galvanized as opposed to orange painted). The newer ones are wider and have a higher weight rating than the older ones. Also, if you truthfully tell U-Haul what you are planning on putting on it, they will deny you the rental because they believe it is too big/heavy. You'll have to... *ahem* stretch the truth as to what you're putting on it. From what other people have said, the HMMWV will fit (albiet snugly) and the trailer can handle the weight.

If your truck is running, when picking it up, bring fresh batteries and an air pump so you won't have problems loading it.

Now for the error in the GovPlanet FAQ. You may see in the FAQ that if you have your truck shipped to you, you will not be liable for the sales tax for the state it is in if shipping it out of that state. This is incorrect straight from a GovPlanet rep I spoke with on the phone after I made my purchaes. They are collecting sales tax regardless of whether you have it picked up by a shipper or pick it up yourself. I was originally going to pick it up myself but found through the Veritread estimate on the site that it would have been cheaper to have it shipped if the sales tax wasn't collected. After the purchase I called GovPlanet to find out how to schedule the pickup since it can't be picked up until your EUC clears (I'll go into this later). That's when I found out about the tax situation. So, if you are having the truck shipped, factor the shipment cost and sales tax into your final price. That said, if you are tax exempt for any other reason you can get your sales tax you have to pay refunded. No idea how that works but there is a section in the FAQ about it and process for it.


Here we get to selecting the truck you want.

After you've found the truck you want, I recommend picking another one or two trucks you can fall back on should you be outbid. Then again, if you have enough patience, you can always just wait until the next auction. I didn't end up with my first choice truck! I had originally bid on a 1992 M998 that ended up selling for $12,750, above my $12,250 max bid (it had 10,000 fewer miles, looked cleaner, and had a 6.5L diesel and full cargo cover).

When selecting a truck, read the description and look over the pictures very thoroughly. Unless you happen to live close enough to schedule an inspection, that is all you'll have to go off of for vehicle condition. If you do live close enough, you can contact GovPlanet who will put you in touch with the local rep to let you on site to look the truck over. I did not go inspect my truck prior to purchase though I will try to sometime between now and when I receive it.

You will find the trucks listed in various running conditions such as "running", "needed jump started", "needed ether", "not running", or listed otherwise.

Advice I had seen given was that GovPlanet will typically do what they can within reason, short of replacing parts or making repairs, to get a vehicle running so that it will sell for a higher amount.  If it isn't running it could be missing vital parts or it could have a cracked piston/head/block or some other catastrophic damage. Needing a jumpstart is likely not a big deal, possibly a dead battery or at worse a faulty charging system. If it needs a shot of ether, it could be a fuel delivery issue or possibly bad fuel. These trucks have been sitting for a while so things like that and flat tires are not uncommon. Again, if loading it yourself, bring fresh batteries and an air pump for this very reason! But, if it isn't running at all, there's quite possibly a very good reason for that and you should bid accordingly while possibly going so far as planning on replacing the drivetrain. Since even if you can inspect it, you can't tear it down, any non-running truck is going to be a gamble.

Besides being in various running conditions, you will also find trucks in various states of repair. Some will be nearly 100% complete while I've also seen stripped bodies on frames with partial engines being sold. A good bit of advice I once saw posted is that if it is missing parts, there could be a very good reason the unit it was with decided to start cannibalizing it. Maybe the transmission is slipping or maybe it doesn't stay running. Regardless it was seen as a more expendable vehicle for a reason. I'm sure a lot of readers, military or otherwise dealing with keeping fleets running, have experienced this first hand. Of course, you will pay more for a more complete and well running truck. Then again if you don't mind a challenge you can potentially save a lot of money. Just know that missing or broken parts that need replaced can add up and potentially be hard to find! My truck had a broken passenger mirror. I figured it wouldn't be a big deal finding some new glass for it since I've done that before on other vehicles. After several hours of searching I turned up nothing and was forced to buy an entire mirror assembly. Individual mirrors were around $90-$100 with eBay being the best source. Given that the individual mirrors were priced what they were and the driver side mirror's paint was pretty faded, I decided to purchase a pair which ended up putting the price of both mirrors at about $80 each since it was a package deal. I also have an ignition instruction plate that is unreadable. Finding a replacement was a chore but was located.

From people with experience, trucks with body damage or paint damage will require extra care in repairing them so bid on those accordingly as well. The bodies are aluminum so typical body repair shops may or may not be able to make repairs. The paint is CARC (Chemical Agent Resistant Coating) and is typically nasty stuff when applied or sanded and requires certain precautions some shops might not be able to handle.

Another thing to keep in mind is that despite what the odometer reading is listed as, it may not accurately reflect the mileage on the truck! Speedometers are switched out without much regard to the mileage except it being recorded in the maintenance logs (which you will not have access to). Compare the trucks typical wear spots with the mileage to see if it matches up. Also, sometimes trucks are put through a depot rebuild and this may be reflected in the odometer reading, especially if it is very low. These trucks will have placards/stickers to reflect the depot maintenance but I have seen that GovPlanet tries to avoid advertising these placards/stickers because they cannot verify if the trucks have actually been through the depot repairs. The part with the placard/sticker may have simply been cannibalized off of another truck that had and if they sell it advertised as having been done, only for the buyer to find out it hasn't, they're libel.


Now we come to the actual purchase.

As I mentioned, auctions are held weekly on Wednesdays.

Each truck is listed at a starting price based on condition. Running trucks are now being started at $5000 (down from $7500) and non-running and salvage trucks are being started at less than that.

The acutual auction time for each truck only lasts for 4 minutes and below is why.

The bidding process is a little bit different than most places you may have participated in. On GovPlanet you can bid at any time before or during the auction using what they call PriorityBid. Here is the FAQ section on what the PriorityBid is:

PriorityBid is our system for placing bids during the preview period of an auction. A significant amount of all bidding in our auctions occurs with PriorityBids; more than 70% of items typically have bids on them before auction day. Because they are placed during preview, PriorityBids have a delayed effect on the price of an item: the price does not change until the auction opens. There are several advantages of using PriorityBids:

   You do not have to be at your computer on auction day. When you place a PriorityBid, you specify the maximum you are willing to pay for an item. You will be told immediately if yours is the highest bid placed so far, but you will not know how much of your bid amount remains to protect you from later bidders. Your bid amount is confidential and our auction software will keep you in the lead against competitive bids through the preview and on auction day or until your maximum amount is exceeded. If you get outbid by another PriorityBid, an automatic email will immediately be sent to you.

   You can win the item for less than your maximum amount. In our style of auctions, the price the winner pays is determined by the price the runner-up was willing to pay. The final price is never more than one bid increment greater than the next-highest bid. So, if you have little competition, you can win an item for less than your maximum amount. We recommend you determine your "no regrets" price—the price at which, if someone else were to win, you would not regret the outcome—and then bid one increment below that.

   Bidding early helps ensure that you are the winner. When competing PriorityBids are placed for the same amount, the earliest bid takes precedence (it has Priority at that price), so submitting your bid early gives you an advantage. You can place a PriorityBid online any time day or night, or by fax during our Customer Care hours.

   Freedom to keep an eye out for other bargains. PriorityBids give you the freedom to browse and track other items on auction day without worrying about your "must-have" items. Our system acts as your assistant, constantly monitoring your PriorityBids and keeping you in the lead until the price goes beyond your designated maximum bid amount.

As auction day approaches, you can check the status of your PriorityBids in the Buying List of My Account. Make sure your email address and notification settings are correct in My Account Profile so that you can receive outbid notification emails. Before even being outbid, you can increase the maximum on any of your PriorityBids by placing a new PriorityBid on the same item for your new maximum amount (don't worry, you can not outbid yourself). Like all bids, PriorityBids are binding and can not be retracted nor reduced.


That pretty much lays it out. Bid what you're willing to go to before the auction starts. You won't know what the actual price is but if you get outbid at any point they will notify you via email and you can up your max bid if you want. If you bid a certain amount first, you get priority if someone else bids the same amount after you.

Also, bids are in $250 increments.

When deciding how much to bid, as I mentioned above, you will have to add in sales tax and transportation costs. That's not all though! You'll also have to factor in title costs as well as a 10% buyer fee! The title option with a Florida state off road title, a SF97 (essentially a federal government title), and a bill of sale will run you $150. Just the bill of sale and SF97 is cheaper but, you'll have to know if your state has any problems with dealing with SF97s. The Florida state title option was developed to help buyers deal with states that have problems with SF97s. Just the bill of sale is cheaper still but that may not be enough for some states. Know what is good for your state or err on the side of caution and get the full package!

I bought my truck for $9500. Between the 6% Kentucky state sales tax, the full titling option, and the 10% buyers fee I ended up with about an extra $1750 added to my purchase price. Then I've got to add in trailer rental and fuel costs to go pick it up.


And here we get to the post auction process.

So you've won your auction! Congratulations!

There are now some steps to take to finalize your purchase.

You will start by going through the checkout process. Here you will decide if you're shipping your truck or transporting it your self, selecting your titling options, and then finalizing the invoice total based on the options. After the invoice is finalized you will pay GovPlanet via wire transfer. Payment must be made within 3 business days or you may incur late fees usually $25-$50 per day depending on final sale price. If you go past a certain time, your item may be considered abandoned and you get charged an even bigger fee. There's also other stuff listed here.

But paying for it isn't the only thing you have to do!

On your account page you will be sent links (on the right hand side of the main account screen) to fill out your Hold Harmless Agreement which gets sent to one email address. You can print it out, physically sign it, and then physically mail it in. You can physically sign it, scan it, and then email it in. Or you can digitally sign it and email it in.

Most importantly, since the HMMWV is a defense article, you will have to fill out an EUC - End Use Certificate. This basically lets Uncle Sam know the final disposition of the item you're buying - if you're going to keep it, sell it, exporting it or not and if you are you have clearance to. This may seem to be a daunting part but GovPlanet has conveniently set up a form wizard that will assist you in filling it out correctly with descriptions of each field needing filled out. You will also need to send in a copy of your driver's license (preferably) or other government issued ID. Make sure your scan/photo of your license is crystal clear or your EUC may get kicked back after a very lengthy initial time period delaying you even further! Just like with the Hold Harmless Agreement you can send it in using one of the previously mentioned methods. It will be emailed to a different email address than the Hold Harmless Agreement though.

Directions are included with both forms.

First time EUC filers like I am can expect a 8-12 week wait. If you've previously filed an EUC with GovPlanet (GovLiquidation not included!) within, I believe the last year, your wait will be considerably shorter. This part is a bit like the whole NFA application and waiting game!


Here I'm getting to the pickup process and since I haven't yet picked up my truck, can only relay what information I've gleaned.

After your payment is received and your EUC is cleared you have 8 business days to remove your truck or you'll incur storage fees. Now, not to worry, if there are incidental delays GovPlanet will work with you so long as you are making a good faith effort to pick it up. This is word straight from a GovPlanet manager on Steel Soldiers. They simply put that there to keep people from abusing the time given to pick up the truck.

To pick up the truck you'll have to schedule a pick up time. If you are picking it up, it should be as simple as it sounds. If you're having a shipper pick it up, the pick up time will have to be coordinated between GovPlanet, your shipper, and you. You don't need to be on site for the shipper to pick it up.

Since I'm fuzzy on this part if you have any questions it would be best to call GovPlanet for clarification at 1-844-225-8799, Monday-Friday 6am-5pm Pacific.


Once you've got your truck at your site, it is not recommended you hop in and start cruising around! Your truck may have been sitting for months or a year or more!

A full fluid change is recommended. Since these are diesels, Shell Rotella T is a good motor oil. Replace other fluids as recommended by AM General. Specifications can be found in military TMs which are available at Steel Soldiers and other sites. Add fresh fuel, draining as needed to get a good mix to burn off the old stuff.

Check all of your important fasteners like lugnuts to make sure they are secure. Some very important fasteners unique to the HMMWV design are the bolts that connect the differential to the half shaft and the half shaft to the geared hubs. These can work their way out and should have some blue Loctite applied to prevent that. If they come loose they can damage brakes and other equipment!

Check for any leaks GovPlanet may have missed.

If you run into anything that was not on your inspection report, report it right away to GovPlanet to take advantage of their Iron Clad Guarantee which basically states they will disclose any problems as best they can. If they examine your claim and find it valid, they will refund a portion of your purchase price. If it's something internal and you knowingly bought a non-running truck don't count on any sort of refund. If you bought what appears to be a complete truck and it's missing say a mirror or seat, or it has some other problem that wasn't listed, you will likely see some money coming back to you. When in doubt file a claim. Worst case they deny it.


Now at this point we get into a topic that Steel Soldiers will not permit on their site: Titling, plating, and insuring for road use.

If you do bring it up, the topic will be deleted and you may be banned. For some reason they think that violating the purchase agreement and putting these trucks on the road will cause Uncle Sam and GovPlanet to stop selling them.

When you sign the Hold Harmless Agreement with GovPlanet, part of it states that you acknowledge the HMMWV is not roadworthy. The Florida title and SF97 are also stamped "Off Road Use Only":




That said, in many states, there are methods of titling off road vehicles for on road use. Check local laws! We've tried to compile instructions for various states below.

(Old Ohio registration information contained within)
Click To View Spoiler

For insurance, a number of companies out there will insure military vehicles. You'll have to call around. Although Steel Soldiers doesn't allow discussion about insuring the HMMWVs for road use, they do have a list of companies that have been known to insure military vehicles.


If you want technical information on the HMMWV there are two great resources

Steel Soldiers
G503.com

Despite my thinking that banning certain discussions about on road use of HMMWVs on Steel Soldiers is stupid, both have excellent information on HMMWVs and other military vehicles. Steel Soldiers also has one thing G503 doesn't which is a section dealing with the intricacies of purchasing from GovLiquidation and GovPlanet. A GovPlanet manager with the username of "Jwade" also participates in the HMMWV purchasing threads there answering questions and helping clear roadblocks you may run into. This thread is a good place to find him. (Update: "Jwade" is no longer with GP, Phil Hasty has filled his role.)


While waiting for my truck I've already started picking up accessories for it. If anyone wants me to I can go into what I've been picking up and why but customizing your truck will come down to what you like!


So, this is where everything currently stands with me. If anyone who has gone further in the process or has more detailed knowledge spots missing/incorrect information could contribute, it would be most appreciated!

HMMWV How-To Tech Links:

• Cutting Down 2 Man Troop Seats To Fit A 4 Man Truck


• Making Soft Half Doors

HMMWV Reference Material:

• HMMWV Operator and Technical Manuals

UPDATED 7/19/2017: State Registration Instructions

Ohio:
As of April 21, 2017 The State Of Ohio Department Of Public Safety, Bureau Of Motor Vehicles, Title Division sent the following Title Broadcast to all state title offices:



This is being used as justification by the BMV to (incorrectly) deny accepting the 3803 forms mentioned previously (to the point of claiming the form no longer exists). There have been conflicting reports of whether the BMV is continuing to accept registration for HMMWVs with valid, on road out of state titles. So far there has been no rescinding of on road titles for currently titled trucks.

THE BELOW IN THE SPOILER BOX FOR THE STATE OF OHIO SHOULD NOT BE USED FOR ANYTHING OTHER THAN INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ON THE PREVIOUS PROCESS!


Click To View Spoiler


Georgia: (Thanks to Lawman734)
The Georgia procedures manual states that to register a former military vehicle, it has to have been titled elsewhere (like a FL or MT title) or an SF97 needs to be provided. You'll need a VIN verification regardless (form is available at the tag office).

SF-97 - Even if it's not in your name, a bill of sale is sufficient from the original owner (GovPlanet) to the new owner (you). This works ok, but you're at the mercy of the clerk regarding the "Off-Road Use Only" part. Many are ok, others get a hassle.

Off-Road Florida titles - These don't seem to be an issue, but again - you're at the mercy of clerk on how they want to handle it given the fact its an off-road title and offroad vehicles in GA don't require registration.

Montana titles - These seem to be the easiest to work with and the most hassle free.

Prepare yourself so that it appears you know what you're doing. Bring the Title/SF97 along with your completed (signed by LEO) VIN Verification form and proof of insurance. It's a good idea to bring a photo of the vehicle and the vehicle data plate for good measure, even if not needed. The sales tax you paid will do you no good for the Georgia taxes and fees, but with proof that you paid in Georgia - contact Iron Planet because they say they'll refund your taxes - I'm still waiting on my check after 3 weeks.


Iowa: (Thanks to beef1911)
In Iowa you can get a Bonded title. All you need is a bill of sale or paid invoice. You have to apply to the DOT (2 weeks to respond), sign a form for military vehicles saying it meets FMVSS standards, get a bond for 1.5x the value of the humvee ($113 for $7500 bond for 3 years), wait for the DOT for 2 more weeks, then they say you can go get it registered. Same process for if you bought a car and did not receive a title. All this was done over email. Except for the registration.


Texas: (Thanks to EagleArmsHBAR)
In Texas, vehicles like a military surplus HMMWV can be registered under several categories:

1) normal registration;
2) antique (if over a particular age); and
3) former military vehicle

If registered as an antique or for more military vehicle, they don't have to pass inspection, but they are then limited on road use. If the vehicle passes inspection and is insured, it can be registered as a regular vehicle.

If all else fails in Texas and they won't accept an SF97 for some reason, a title can be obtained by going the bonded title route. Of course there are additional details with any of these registration methods, but that's the basics.


New York: (Thanks to kevin101)
My experience with NY was pretty simple.

1. I called Geico and was able to insure it pretty easily. It's insured as a normal vehicle with full coverage and didn't cost too much.
2. Brought my insurance card, SF97 marked "off road use only", my reassignment letter from GovPlanet, and the paid invoice from GovPlanet.
3. I handed everything over to the motor vehicle clerk who looked everything over. She mentioned the off road use only stamp but didn't seem to give it much thought and it didn't come up again.
4. Due to the truck not having a standard VIN she had to enter the vehicle manually. The only problem she had was having the computer accept the 6 digit ID number. She called a supervisor over who also looked over the paperwork quickly and the supervisor was able to override the system to enter the 6 digits.
5. I had to pay NY sales tax for the purchase price of the truck. I paid a 6% tax for Kentucky but NY doesn't have a tax agreement with that state. I'm hoping to get a refund from GovPLanet for the KY tax I paid.


Michigan:
Sorry, but anyone in Michigan seems to be out of luck with any sort of surplus HMMWV. Your state hates you. Not only are they denying on road registration of newly purchased auction vehicles but, if you buy a HMMWV legally titled out of state they will contact the state of origin in an attempt to get the title revoked and still refuse to title it on road. I'm betting you'll still run into some sort of issues even with the clear titled M1123s too due to ignorance but, who knows.

I suggest you all get some legislative action going to fix this!


South Carolina: (Thanks to An51960)
for the registration process, in SC, I would avoid the Greenville (University Ridge) location (that's where the lady told me I needed a title rather than a "certificate to obtain title"--she clearly had never seen an SF-97 and did not know what to do with it). After the one lady made several trips to ask other agents how to proceed, she said, "My boss will have to call headquarters." HQ was also clueless about how to proceed, however, they did get on a high horse about the off-road notation and state that there was no way to convert an off-road vehicle to an on-road vehicle (though they did admit that you could build a dune buggy in your garage and get it on the road). I ended up leaving there and going to Woodruff.

At the other location, I buried them in paperwork. I showed them my email where I won the auction, my invoice from gov planet, my email certifying my payment, my notice that my EUC was approved, my bill of sale, my insurance paperwork, my SF-97, and the notarized form transferring ownership from gov planet to me. The attitude at this office was much more figuring out how to help versus how to shut me down. The lady was very confused, but asked a fellow employee how to do things and pushed everything right on through. They told me I was going to have to pay sales tax all over again and get a refund from gov planet for the tax. They said the policy went into effect on 1 July. I pointed out that I had purchased before this date and they let me out of that even though the computer insisted that I pay it again. They kept my invoice showing the payment of state sales tax in case they needed to defend themselves again their own bureaucracy. The lady who issued my temporary tag works at this office and she knew enough to tell me that I would need my government certificate (SF-97) to get a title, so she clearly would've known what it was if she had been the one behind the desk that day.

I would also avoid the Blythewood location since this is where the Greenville office called.



UPDATED 8/7/2017: Insurance

Here's a list of insurance companies that will insure the trucks. Some more easily than others. You should probably call since these aren't standard trucks.

- State Farm
- Geico
- Liberty Mutual
- USAA
- Progressive
- Hagerty

There are other insurance companies that are out there that may insure these trucks so, if you are able to use one not listed, please let me know and I'll add it to the list.



Reputable Parts Suppliers:
So you've got your new HMMWV and are probably now looking for parts to fix one thing or another. Beware there are a lot of new companies popping up to make a quick buck off all of the new HMMWVs hitting the market and may be selling substandard parts.

If you're looking for OEM HMMWV parts there are a couple good sources sources:

- Mac Motors - They carry a couple handy pre-assembled filter kits. Just search for PM-A, PM-B, or PM-C depending on what you need. Otherwise search for your needed part number
- Hummer Parts Guy - Can search by name or part number.
- AM General Direct - Parts direct from AMG. Some good prices, some decent prices on some hard to find items, and some items priced like they're selling them to Uncle Sam.
- Kascar is a popular HMMWV parts dealer but, a number of buyers including myself, believe we have received out of spec reproductions and non-OEM substituted parts. In some instances, Kascar might be the only option available but they I can't really be recommended them as a primary my first go to source.
UPDATE 8/23/2017: Updating this section as Ron from Kascar contacted me personally today after seeing this post, looked me up by my name and order history, and assured me they always supply OEM parts and, to contact them if there are ever any issues with parts quality. In fairness to Kascar, I'd say after several purchases from them since this was made, my experience could best be classified as a "mixed bag" though I hope any and all future purchases are all positive
UPDATE 2/17/2020: I've made several orders with Kascar since the last update with all going well and everything exactly what it was supposed to be.
- Adventure Accessories is another great OEM option but they're geared more towards civilian H1 parts since they're the former Lynch Hummer group.
- BlueHummer Outfitters also sells OEM parts for both HMMWVs and H1s but also has some in house upgrade parts like upgraded spindle nuts, reusable half shaft bolt kits, and flexible caliper side brake lines. BlueHummer has closed up shop. Their items are now carried by Mod Mafia.

Not generally recommended:
Wolfer Parts/ComTac/MotoFino Truck Parts/Augusta Engine Parts has a combination of surplus OEM parts as well as in house manufactured driveline parts like half shafts and suspension parts like ball joints. It appears their "in house" parts are Chinese manufacture but they don't disclose this.

There are some surplus parts dealers out there that are great to deal with like Equipment Parts Sales. If you don't see it on their site, email them direct about what you're looking for. They've told me they don't always have their full inventory up on the website. They'll also work on prices on bundle purchases.

There are a number of surplus parts dealers also selling on eBay. Of them, the most reputable are beltfed34/Austin Aviation and amtak2/Arrowhead Lake XS Surplus. hdps_corp and militarysurplusparts deal in surplus parts but may have limited HMMWV parts. As mentioned, there are a number of others selling surplus parts. Just make sure if you're buying from them and they're claiming new surplus, they have correct military stickers on the packaging with the NSN or, at the least they have good feedback on the surplus they're selling.

Lastly, for surplus and especially hard to find parts, get in touch with Steel Soldiers and G503 member 86humv.

When in doubt though, post here and ask!

Well, I ordered one today. Do you have a link to the fuses you will be using?

I'm going to use a screw and nut to attach these to one end of each cable and then heat shrink over the connection.

3 pack 125A fuses

2 pack 80A fuses



By the way, it looks like I overestimated the size of the compartment next to the battery box and underestimated the size of the equalizers.

I can fit one in there but not both. So, it's either use just one or locate one in an alternate location and, I'd really prefer not to use just 1.

Unless I can think up a different location, I'm thinking one in the battery box compartment and one mounted in the rear passenger underseat compartment. I can then run the cable bundle in some wire loom (for a clean look) to the battery box and run it through the ambulance body power umbilical opening in the rear of the battery box. That will keep the wire runs nice and short and it will still be out of the way. I'll probably have to use a hole saw and put a hole in the underseat compartment to do that though.






Since you're only using one, you shouldn't have any problem. You could possibly fit a second in the actual battery compartment if you were using civi batteries since they take up so much less space.

Very interesting.....thanks!

I'm sadly admitting that I've made very little progress on mine due to weather and work but I do have a question.

Is it worth the hassle to delve into the auction again and try for a 6.5 and sell my current 6.2? I know it's a gamble but since I have almost everything ready to turn mine into a 4 man should I get a better motor? The EUC wait should be minimal this time.

I wouldn't go through the time of selling and potential loss of money. Run it how it is and you will most likely never have an issue. If you do have an issue like I did, just get a 6.5 engine from Southern Metals and replace it.

Personally, the differences between the 6.2 and the 6.5NA are negligible. The GEP 6.5s are simply nice because you know it's a newer engine in your truck and it happens to have some design modernizations. Where you start seeing differences in performance is when you get a 4 speed behind the 6.5NA or you've got a 6.5T.

If you're looking for more power, have you tried turning up your injector pump?

My 6.2 with the pump turned up does an adequate job. Where I'm seeing the choke point now is definitely the transmission.

Good points on both. Thanks.

Got my replacement laptop today after FedEx played games not delivering it for 2 days. Much happier with this one.

GPS works perfect on it. Picked up 9 sats right away. The new battery with this one has better remaining service life. Also, it looks like it's in a lot better overall shape.

Doug was nice enough to toss in a key since he'll be making some more of his own shortly and, offered to send a couple along for assisting in trying to get some replacements.

Overall, glad Doug took care of everything.

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Pics of CF19 and internet set up as promised.  Let me know if you need different pics

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continued.   This set up works 95 percent of the time and mapping system is updated on the regular.  Maps also work in offline mode 

If anyone does come up with extra keys for a reasonable price, I'm interested.

On a side note.  I haven't been able to figure out what you need to do to be able to post pics.
Is it just be a paying member? The membership descriptions are a little lacking for info on it and I can't find it described anywhere that I can understand.

Thanx

He said he'll be offering the keys up for sale soon. I think he said Tuesday they should be available but you might want to message him.

For photos, direct upload to the site is apparently a paying member feature. Even though I have it, I still use a Photobucket account for most of my pics.



Earlier I finally found a CB suitable for my truck at a reasonable price. I had seen these around but most of the people offering them straight up for sale want an arm and a leg for them. I got this at a decent price on an eBay auction.



Going to paint the knobs and chrome trim flat black so it fits in better. Both are standard Cobra CB parts so if I ever have to sell it, I'll just pull them of the standard 29 LTD I've got so it's back to original condition.

Now I need to build the mil antenna for it...

Interesting setup... Is the Sierra Wireless box the modem and router in one unit?

Also, I've got that same Gamber Johnson dock from my old work laptop van setup I installed on my own. Doesn't have that shock mount or anything fancy, Was just the dock on a pole mount. Actually pulled it out of a Cincinnnati Bell van at the same Pull and Save scrapyard I got the E-Track from, $20.

Believe so. But motorola box might do it too . We have a wireless card somewhere.  

Nice write up. Very well done.

Went to the yard today to try to see my truck. The first guy I spoke with was a complete asshole and never put his cellphone down while he spoke. He was also kicked back with his feet up. Typical stereotype of a federal govt employee. Unfortunately, the govplanet guy was relocated for a week. Seems the one at Stewart had a death in the family and the one I was looking for was temporarily relocated to do inspections on a hundred items they're trying to put on auction. That left no one around to let me see my truck. They wouldn't even point it out and let me see it from a distance. Four hours down the drain. They did confirm that they are currently allowing you to drive your prize away if you choose to do so. He also said he's heard that EUCs are getting cleared in 5-6 weeks.

These guys are not federal employees, they work or are subcontracted by Gov Planet (private company). Since they are the only contractor that sells vehicles for the military, they operate as if they have no real need for good customer service which is a shame. They use to respond to people at the beginning but I have heard complaints once they started the process to merge with Richie Brothers.  

Also with a HMMWV, I doubt that they will let you drive off with it unless it one of the titled ones and even then I wouldn't risk it. Call before you go.

The guy I was talking about was a DLA employee, not the govplanet contractor. He was a federal employee, but that would imply he worked for a check. He was just on the dole from the looks of it.

I did speak with the govplanet folks and they said "you can drive it, drag it, tow it; we don't care."

Any idea why the starting bid on this one: 1045A2 is so cheap?

Nick

That sucks. Hope it wasn't a long drive for you.

My truck was 4 hours away and thankfully City Salvage was great to deal with. Let me have run of the storage yard to look at all the trucks. How I ended up finding another member's truck when it wasn't listed as being there.


And no more Jwade either...


That's an interesting change.


Probably because they know it will go for a lot more regardless of what they start it at.

Just note the part on there now where it says "***The turret and its components are subject to further demilitarization per DoD regulations.***". The first batch didn't have this. Haven't seen one of these post demil yet so it will be interesting to see how bad of a hack job they end up being.




And just a heads up if anyone is looking for a mil style antenna for CB use... I've been looking all around for the couple of recommended antennas and the ones I was finding were either not available for sale, priced astronomically, or incomplete (missing the elements/masts). I did find the MX-6707 the most readily available though.

Details on converting it to CB use are here.

After a lot of searching I finally found all 3 components (base, lower element section, and upper element section) at Eastern Surplus but after talking to them on the phone this morning, the upper section is only available NOS and they think it's made of gold ($100+) and, you have to complete an EUC for the other 2 parts which were reasonably priced. .

Then I found Rapco's parts division actually has the whole package for sale for $125 + shipping, no EUC. Right here. Sure enough, bought it this morning and it did ship today as well. Probably should have ordered the tip and tie down kit they have while I was at it but didn't notice them since I found the antenna page via internet search.

Now I just need to find an antenna I could use with my Baofeng BF-F9V2+ for when I actually do get licensed to use it. Antenna needs be a mil design and be able to handle, or modified to handle, 2m and/or 70cm (radio does 136-174MHz and 400-520MHz). @WING25C or anyone else, any suggestions?

Let me put my thinking cap on, I want to say there is a version of the military antenna that can be used but I think only one band or the other (VHF vs UHF) but I have to try and dig it up


Ultimately you could get by with something like this, it is tactical looking and works well I ran one for ham radio because it was flexible in nature and take a beating plus worked(tuned) for UHF/VHF at the same time.

SBB1 Antenna

We definitely need a Like/Thanks button on here. That antenna may actually work perfectly with an idea I came up with...

I'm thinking of taking some PVC 4" pipe I've got, a round antenna mount blank cover, and an AS-3900 spring assembly and making a setup that looks like this Titan electronic warfare antenna or FRF-115 antenna





I can put that Comet dual band antenna inside the PVC pipe which shouldn't interfere with the function and give it a more appropriate look.

As long as the paint doesn't have any metal in it, it shouldn't cause any problems.  The metal in the paint will cause problems.

What have y'all done for the ignition switch or for a power disconnect to help safeguard your truck?  I see the switches on eBay and govplanet, but I'm not keen on drilling the opening wider (I want to drill as little as possible).  Is there a switch that won't require drilling?  If I'm looking for a switch, what diameter am I looking for?  How many connections on the back (does it have to be 3)?  I'm guessing it needs to be a 3-position (off, run, start).  Anything else to consider?

Honestly the most common way to do this is with one of the switches either from e-bay (or other vendors that are a little cheaper if you buy it direct from them) like this:

http://www.thosemilitaryguys.com/keyed-in-dash-ignition-switch-w-uni-bit-drill/

Yeah, all the switches requires a little more widening of the hole to accommodate the larger diameter of a keyed tumbler vs. a simple switch mechanism.  But really it's not that much of an increase and is the cleanest plug-and-play solution. If you really don't want to change the "stock" non-keyed switch and hole, you can always add the battery cut off switch, but then every time you park/run the truck you're going to have to lean over and add an extra step to start/stop it.

You need the three connector switch -- one lead is common positive voltage, the next is "run", and the third is "start".  Some of the switches even have the fourth position that's used for "accessory" just like in a car, but I've not seen anyone really bother to run a separate wire bus up for this in the HMMWV, but you certainly could.

I had a switch from, if I recall, Federal Military Parts on eBay but it was a piece of junk and they took it back. You could wiggle it and the truck would shut of or engage the starter. I think they have a better one out now but I haven't bothered with it.

In fact, I run my truck stock. I use the cable tie and just shift it into reverse if I go in anywhere. I figure a car thief is pretty unlikely to be carrying a set of bolt cutters and, half the time I forget to put it in neutral to start it. I did drill out my ignition switch opening but didn't have any problem refitting my factory switch with a couple washers after drilling it out. I did put a new placard in though...

As TexJeepTJ mentioned, Those Military Guys have a switch but, I'm not terribly inclined to give them my business either with how they did me over a push button light switch they sold me.

So I am preparing for the next step of getting my new drivetrain in at the end of the month/first of next month. It will be shipped Fastenal and I will have them forklift it onto a trailer since it will be on a double pallet and won't fit in the bed of my truck. So I have been looking at options on how to get it off the trailer and into the garage. Option A is to buy the HMMWV engine lifting bracket and using an engine hoist to lift it off or option B is using a pallet jack and possibly ramps depending on which trailer I rent.

I picked up an AS3449 for the 70cm band.  It is suppose to handle 400-470Mhz.  It is part of the VSQ-1 system.  I got mine from Sportsmans Guide as a complete setup with antenna cables and mounting hardware for around $150.  People are selling the same parts individually on ePay for 10 times that.  Don't know if they are still available.

Just wanted to thank everyone who has contributed to this thread. Over the past few weeks I've done a lot of research and read all 35 pages. After a couple near misses, I won this one today - . I look forward to picking her up in a few months and getting to work! Anyone have first hand experience titling/registering in Louisiana?

I will caveat that I don't know these electrical system well.

However a simple kill switch in line with the current ignition switch would work.  On a standard gas engine the best method is always putting a kill witch between the coil and distributor however I believe these don't have either of those.  You want to find a low power wire that is needed for starting the vehicle and just interrupt that circuit with a kill switch.

You could always put a switch on the injector pump wire however there is usually enough fuel to still start the vehicle and drive it a little before dying.  They wouldn't get far but could still take it.

Depends on what type of trailer you're using. We move large safes/vaults using pallet jacks and metal/wooden dowels as rollers. If it's a low deck trailer, you could possibly even forego the pallet jack all together using just dowels and two assistants to switch dowels. You'll need to put a couple 2x4s on the bottom of the pallets so you've got a flat surface to roll everything on.

There are some trailers designed to lower the entire deck to ground level hydraulically (our company has some) but they aren't very common.


No dice on SG. Think the dual band antenna is probably a better option. Thanks though!


Congrats and welcome to the club! It might not be a few months. I've seen word of EUCs getting processed more quickly than before.

As for registration in LA, I don't think I've seen anything. If you find some concrete info and get through the process successfully, let us know and I'll add it to the list in the OP.


Both of those options should work well.

The injector pump wire should be the one on top. You can always just unplug it too.




A couple things I got done.

Wired up my docking station. Also got my switch to add to the dock so I can leave it plugged in all the time. Tried to wired it in but there is something about it the dock doesn't like. I'm sure it's something to do with the LED/resistor. It causes some sort of protection to trip and the dock won't power up until the main board has been disconnected from the power supply board. The only waterproof switches I've found are illuminated so I bit the bullet and ordered a regular switch from Mouser.

Something else I thought you guys with these laptops would like to know about... I was thinking it would be awesome if I could run Waze on it for navigation since it has GPS and some of my other Android apps (like SiriusXM and Pandora) since it's got a touchscreen so I did some checking around. Sure enough there are Android emulators for PCs! I tried Bluestacks and it sucked, no GPS support. Then I found DuOS. I'm running the 30 day trial right now and so far, I really like it! Laptop GPS works with it. I have found a couple times DuOS won't use connect to the GPS receiver saying it's in use or not connected but, a reset of the program and laptop seems to fix it. Also, I found it best to crank the RAM utilization all the way up for smooth function. $15 for the Lollipop version is a pretty good deal for what it lets you do. I was able to essentially clone my Android tablet to the laptop, including even Nova Launcher.

Also, got my one Vanner Vann-Guard wired in. If my upcoming trip to Southern Metals is successful, I will hopefully be bringing home a couple 24v Warn winches so I won't need to wire in the second Vann-Guard afterall. So, that may be coming up for sale should someone be interested in it. I'll even toss in an 80A and 125A fuse too!

Come on Ryan you know the rules, pictures are required.

I know... I was running out the door when I posted that.

Right now the dock itself is in a couple pieces while I put in a patch wire until the new switch gets here.

Only have one pic handy on my phone of the Vann-Guard partly wired.

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Just a heads up in case anyone else is doing a VIC system install, these Racal Acoustics headsets are a great buy!

The seller took an offer of $17 each shipped. Mine showed up today and 3 of the 4 I ordered look like they weren't even used and the 4th looks like it was worn maybe once or twice.

Also, my MX-6707 antenna showed up from Rapco yesterday afternoon. Just as it said, it had all 3 parts - base, lower element, and upper element. All for $160 shipped. They did an excellent job packing the antenna elements/masts in a big cardboard tube. Took the base apart and found the tuning capacitor that needs adjusted. Will need to hook up my CB and SWR meter to see which direction it needs turned since the instructions didn't specify. Also the instructions specify using a plastic screwdriver to adjust it (I assume to prevent shorting anything out) but I didn't have any luck locating any such thing. Instead I found a set of ceramic screwdrivers on eBay (they're available all over for $10 or less depending on how fast you need them) which should accomplish the same thing.

Doug listed the keys for the docking ports today if anyone is interested.  $20 each.

 From Doug:  I am listing pairs of these keys on eBay now. You can find the listing here: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?type=3&campId=5337559805&toolId=10001&customId=j3qmvezf0p00zk8a00004&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2F122540493818

Ryan, what are the lengths on the cables for the equalizer? I came up with 15", 18" and 24" but want to confirm.

I will measure them tomorrow for you. Beat after spending the day at Haspin Acres!

I don't have the equalizer bolted in yet so no big deal but, those measurements sound right. I ended up setting the equalizer in place and then just laying out each piece where it needed to go and cutting to length. I did have to open up the small cutout that is already there between the two compartments. Made that about 4" wide and an inch deep. I put some rubber edging on it to prevent any rub through.




Haspin Acres was a blast! My buddy Dave drove his HMMWV and Mark drove Dave's M1028 CUCV with newly installed Banks turbo kit. Mark's HMMWV was in pieces and he just couldn't get it back together in time. Ended up leaving the M1028 parked though due to a busted brake line.

Both our HMMWVs were pretty popular. We were the only ones there. Lots of compliments.

Didn't hit any super serious trails. I was following Dave since I didn't know my way around and he didn't want to christen his new paint with some pinstripes just yet. I did take a few alternate paths with some tougher lines a couple times. Used BTM successfully and you could really feel when it locks up. Was getting some rear wheel spin, did BTM, and boom - traction! Also, only had to put the t-case in HL once when I had one corner in the air and the other opposite corner with no traction. Then had to drop it into L when taking an uphill, dry creek bed path at a rock shelf so I could bounce up and over. By the way, never even aired down the tires from my 40/45 levels!

Drive out and back was about an hour and a half each way. Not a single issue from the truck.

Not too many action shots since everyone in our group was driving. Snagged a couple pics someone on SS managed to get of us driving though.

In no particular order...




















It was unbelievably dusty there since we haven't had much in the way of rain in the last week or so. I now know what my brother was talking about when he mentioned the "moon dust" they dealt with in Afghanistan. It gets everywhere. I'm still hacking it up and blowing it out of my nose.



I should mention too, even though it looks like it in the pics above, the wheels on Dave's truck are not tan. They are actually black but whatever they were painted with seemed to really attract the dust.

Was VERY glad to have my pre-cleaner on my intake! I'm going to check my filter tomorrow to see how it looks when I wash down the truck.

So I ran into a news article that seems to support the notion that SB 176 in KY means titling for HMMWVs.  Someone linked to it over at the G503 HMMWV forums.  I'm not ready to jump in head first or anything, I'd still like someone to tell me the first week of July that yes, in fact, they got an inspeaction and a road title for their truck.

http://g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=63&t=287337

Has anyone won an auction on a decent 2 man truck lately?  Privately owned auction trucks around here are selling for $12,000+ in that configuration and with the 6.5L installed.  Plus side being that one can test drive and really inspect these trucks before they buy, as well as take home that day.  But seems like I read that said 2 man rigs are going for $7500 from auction.

Mounted up the laptop again today using the mongoose mount. Sits lower and pulls in and out allowing either the driver or passenger to use it. Now to mount the Ibis Tek switch boxes onto a flat piece to aluminum or something and then mount that to a ram mount or similar.

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Won my 6.5 2-man back at the end of Apr. Cost 5900 at the auction, then about 7000 with taxes and fees, I've spent about 2k buying parts for it. Mine didn't have (but those parts are now sitting around waiting for the truck to be released) a top, back curtain, door blanks, troop seats, etc. Lesson learned, pay a little more for a complete truck. I'm at about 9k now and still need a few more things. I'm pretty sure I'll have at least 10k in it by the time it's actually on the road. And then will come modifications like radios, seats, etc.

Got those measurements for you.

I'm going to mount the equalizer on the compartment divider instead of the outside edge, at the far back.

24v lead - 22"
12v lead - 32"
Ground lead - 30"

I guess I went a little longer than I thought but, better than too short. I did route mine forward to the cutout then back to the posts. I'll get a pic tomorrow when I'm putting everything back in after washing the truck down today.

I suppose we're going to see how water resistant some of the additions like the dock, MRAP light control, and VIC boxes are since I hosed everything down. I already know the Ibis Tek lightbar box doesn't like water all that much and will start turning circuits on if the switches get wet. I need to see about replacing those switches with waterproof ones.

Found the perfect replacement sand/dust pre-filter for my clouded-up one on the HMMWV on E-bay last week:



https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?type=3&campId=5337559805&toolId=10001&customId=j3tljanbzj00zk8a00004&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FDONALDSON-4-5-AIR-PRE-CLEANER-H000823-FITS-FORD-JOHN-DEERE-CASE-CAT-MASSEY-%2F142166911601

$18.50 plus $16 to ship and you get the *exact* same pre-filter that the Army was putting on these things in the field for a fraction of the price they were paying.  Same manufacturer even (Donaldson).  I think you can get just the clear plastic bowls for a bit less too, but at that price it was just as easy to swap the whole thing out for a new one.

Really cleans up the look of the vehicle:

Nice find! I've only ever seen them clouded up.

Your pics reminded me I meant to ask, you mind taking a couple pics of your camo rack? Mainly the area on the roof.

My buddy Dave had someone flag him down when he was out driving his truck and offer him a NIB one for $40 () so, of course, he bought it but thought it might be for a 2 man. I told him it should work with a 4 door since I'd seen yours but wasn't sure how it mounted up aside from the windshield attachment points.

Will do when the sun comes back up -- looks like it just mounts between the "A" and "B" pillars through the cloth roof.

Looks like you had a great time at Haspin Acres with the SS group -- was the topic of registering civilian HMMWV's banned there in person too?  

Truth be told, our group pretty much kept to ourselves. We said hi to a few folks Dave knew and met up with another HMMWV owner whose truck wasn't ready for the event. All of the vehicle shots were happenstance meetups on the trails. The event was pretty non-centralized. No tents, no swap meet, nothing really official at all. Dave was telling me in the past it's been much more organized and better attended.

I plan on mounting mine on the inside edge at this time. Post pics when you get a chance so I can see the wire routing you are taking.

As requested.  Just ignore the rust -- one of my projects is to pull it off, clean it up and get it painted, and re-attach this summer.
Pretty simple mount it seems, let me know if you need it from another angle:

Thanks!

So it just bolts through the soft top? Hmm... Seems like it would be better to have rubber feet so it sits on top of the top instead going through the material. Or, have a hoop that goes over the top and attaches to the sides of the B-pillar you could attach it to..

It's funny, someone on the HML (humvee.net) was talking about building a roof rack a couple of months ago and was asking for ideas on what to use for the floor of it.  I suggested expanded metal and was told it wasn't a good idea.

What else would you use?

Anything solid like diamond plate is going to potentially trap water on top and weigh more than it needs to.

I guess you could use metal "planks"...