Just a warning, I'm going to be as detailed as I can so this will be a long read!


After I posted I had just purchased a surplus HMMWV in this thread, at the request of Schott8283 I'm starting this thread to lay out what I've gone through in the purchase process for people who may be interested in purchasing one too, with the hope that people who know more than I do chime in and fill in any blanks I'm sure to leave.

Here's my truck I just bought:




















She's a 1994 M998A1 with a 6.2L diesel with 38,669 on the odometer. She runs and is intact from what I can see in the pictures (minus a broken mirror). There were 50 bids on my truck with me winning it at $9,500, up from a $5,000 opening bid.


First where do you find HMMWVs for sale? Just head on over to GovPlanet, the company awarded the contract by the US Government to sell off these trucks, to find the current inventory. From what I have heard, this was a first batch of roughly 4,000 trucks released by the government to see how sales would go. Sales started about a year ago and they are more than half way to 4,000 (2,600ish as of my posting this).

From there you will be able to narrow the inventory down by state and auction end time. Auctions are held weekly on Wednesday. Inventory listed is typically out two weeks.

Definitely read through the FAQ thoroughly. It will answer almost any question you've got. That said I did run into a mistake in it that has yet to be corrected by GovPlanet that I will detail below.


Now you'll have to decide if you want to buy something close enough to pick up yourself or if you want to have it shipped to you.

Shipping will, of course, cost more the further the truck is from you. That said, picking it up yourself can be cheaper if you live close to where it is located or don't mind a little travel. My truck I just purcased is about 4.5 hours from me so I'm going to be making a day of picking it up with my brother and a friend.

If shipping it, you will have the option to get an estimate from Veritread on shipping it from where it is located to you. This can found on every truck's listing on the right hand side.

If you are picking it up yourself, you can either trailer it or flat tow it.

Trailering is preferable from what I've read from people that have done both. Flat towing can be a bit of a task as the HMMWVs can manhandle a truck that is not up to the task. To flat tow it safely you'll need the military tow bar setup designed for the truck. The complete tow bar package will likely cost you $400-$600 if you can't find one to borrow. You'll also have to disconnect the half shafts (shafts that connect from the differentials to the geared hubs that drive the wheels, also known as portal axles) to safely tow it without damaging the transmission or transfer case. Just putting it in neutral will not suffice as either the transmission or transfer case will not properly lubricate itself. I can't recall which off the top of my head without looking it up but, trust me.

If you want to trailer it but don't have a trailer you can rent a U-Haul flat bed transporter trailer. It must be one of the newer models (galvanized as opposed to orange painted). The newer ones are wider and have a higher weight rating than the older ones. Also, if you truthfully tell U-Haul what you are planning on putting on it, they will deny you the rental because they believe it is too big/heavy. You'll have to... *ahem* stretch the truth as to what you're putting on it. From what other people have said, the HMMWV will fit (albiet snugly) and the trailer can handle the weight.

If your truck is running, when picking it up, bring fresh batteries and an air pump so you won't have problems loading it.

Now for the error in the GovPlanet FAQ. You may see in the FAQ that if you have your truck shipped to you, you will not be liable for the sales tax for the state it is in if shipping it out of that state. This is incorrect straight from a GovPlanet rep I spoke with on the phone after I made my purchaes. They are collecting sales tax regardless of whether you have it picked up by a shipper or pick it up yourself. I was originally going to pick it up myself but found through the Veritread estimate on the site that it would have been cheaper to have it shipped if the sales tax wasn't collected. After the purchase I called GovPlanet to find out how to schedule the pickup since it can't be picked up until your EUC clears (I'll go into this later). That's when I found out about the tax situation. So, if you are having the truck shipped, factor the shipment cost and sales tax into your final price. That said, if you are tax exempt for any other reason you can get your sales tax you have to pay refunded. No idea how that works but there is a section in the FAQ about it and process for it.


Here we get to selecting the truck you want.

After you've found the truck you want, I recommend picking another one or two trucks you can fall back on should you be outbid. Then again, if you have enough patience, you can always just wait until the next auction. I didn't end up with my first choice truck! I had originally bid on a 1992 M998 that ended up selling for $12,750, above my $12,250 max bid (it had 10,000 fewer miles, looked cleaner, and had a 6.5L diesel and full cargo cover).

When selecting a truck, read the description and look over the pictures very thoroughly. Unless you happen to live close enough to schedule an inspection, that is all you'll have to go off of for vehicle condition. If you do live close enough, you can contact GovPlanet who will put you in touch with the local rep to let you on site to look the truck over. I did not go inspect my truck prior to purchase though I will try to sometime between now and when I receive it.

You will find the trucks listed in various running conditions such as "running", "needed jump started", "needed ether", "not running", or listed otherwise.

Advice I had seen given was that GovPlanet will typically do what they can within reason, short of replacing parts or making repairs, to get a vehicle running so that it will sell for a higher amount.  If it isn't running it could be missing vital parts or it could have a cracked piston/head/block or some other catastrophic damage. Needing a jumpstart is likely not a big deal, possibly a dead battery or at worse a faulty charging system. If it needs a shot of ether, it could be a fuel delivery issue or possibly bad fuel. These trucks have been sitting for a while so things like that and flat tires are not uncommon. Again, if loading it yourself, bring fresh batteries and an air pump for this very reason! But, if it isn't running at all, there's quite possibly a very good reason for that and you should bid accordingly while possibly going so far as planning on replacing the drivetrain. Since even if you can inspect it, you can't tear it down, any non-running truck is going to be a gamble.

Besides being in various running conditions, you will also find trucks in various states of repair. Some will be nearly 100% complete while I've also seen stripped bodies on frames with partial engines being sold. A good bit of advice I once saw posted is that if it is missing parts, there could be a very good reason the unit it was with decided to start cannibalizing it. Maybe the transmission is slipping or maybe it doesn't stay running. Regardless it was seen as a more expendable vehicle for a reason. I'm sure a lot of readers, military or otherwise dealing with keeping fleets running, have experienced this first hand. Of course, you will pay more for a more complete and well running truck. Then again if you don't mind a challenge you can potentially save a lot of money. Just know that missing or broken parts that need replaced can add up and potentially be hard to find! My truck had a broken passenger mirror. I figured it wouldn't be a big deal finding some new glass for it since I've done that before on other vehicles. After several hours of searching I turned up nothing and was forced to buy an entire mirror assembly. Individual mirrors were around $90-$100 with eBay being the best source. Given that the individual mirrors were priced what they were and the driver side mirror's paint was pretty faded, I decided to purchase a pair which ended up putting the price of both mirrors at about $80 each since it was a package deal. I also have an ignition instruction plate that is unreadable. Finding a replacement was a chore but was located.

From people with experience, trucks with body damage or paint damage will require extra care in repairing them so bid on those accordingly as well. The bodies are aluminum so typical body repair shops may or may not be able to make repairs. The paint is CARC (Chemical Agent Resistant Coating) and is typically nasty stuff when applied or sanded and requires certain precautions some shops might not be able to handle.

Another thing to keep in mind is that despite what the odometer reading is listed as, it may not accurately reflect the mileage on the truck! Speedometers are switched out without much regard to the mileage except it being recorded in the maintenance logs (which you will not have access to). Compare the trucks typical wear spots with the mileage to see if it matches up. Also, sometimes trucks are put through a depot rebuild and this may be reflected in the odometer reading, especially if it is very low. These trucks will have placards/stickers to reflect the depot maintenance but I have seen that GovPlanet tries to avoid advertising these placards/stickers because they cannot verify if the trucks have actually been through the depot repairs. The part with the placard/sticker may have simply been cannibalized off of another truck that had and if they sell it advertised as having been done, only for the buyer to find out it hasn't, they're libel.


Now we come to the actual purchase.

As I mentioned, auctions are held weekly on Wednesdays.

Each truck is listed at a starting price based on condition. Running trucks are now being started at $5000 (down from $7500) and non-running and salvage trucks are being started at less than that.

The acutual auction time for each truck only lasts for 4 minutes and below is why.

The bidding process is a little bit different than most places you may have participated in. On GovPlanet you can bid at any time before or during the auction using what they call PriorityBid. Here is the FAQ section on what the PriorityBid is:

PriorityBid is our system for placing bids during the preview period of an auction. A significant amount of all bidding in our auctions occurs with PriorityBids; more than 70% of items typically have bids on them before auction day. Because they are placed during preview, PriorityBids have a delayed effect on the price of an item: the price does not change until the auction opens. There are several advantages of using PriorityBids:

   You do not have to be at your computer on auction day. When you place a PriorityBid, you specify the maximum you are willing to pay for an item. You will be told immediately if yours is the highest bid placed so far, but you will not know how much of your bid amount remains to protect you from later bidders. Your bid amount is confidential and our auction software will keep you in the lead against competitive bids through the preview and on auction day or until your maximum amount is exceeded. If you get outbid by another PriorityBid, an automatic email will immediately be sent to you.

   You can win the item for less than your maximum amount. In our style of auctions, the price the winner pays is determined by the price the runner-up was willing to pay. The final price is never more than one bid increment greater than the next-highest bid. So, if you have little competition, you can win an item for less than your maximum amount. We recommend you determine your "no regrets" price—the price at which, if someone else were to win, you would not regret the outcome—and then bid one increment below that.

   Bidding early helps ensure that you are the winner. When competing PriorityBids are placed for the same amount, the earliest bid takes precedence (it has Priority at that price), so submitting your bid early gives you an advantage. You can place a PriorityBid online any time day or night, or by fax during our Customer Care hours.

   Freedom to keep an eye out for other bargains. PriorityBids give you the freedom to browse and track other items on auction day without worrying about your "must-have" items. Our system acts as your assistant, constantly monitoring your PriorityBids and keeping you in the lead until the price goes beyond your designated maximum bid amount.

As auction day approaches, you can check the status of your PriorityBids in the Buying List of My Account. Make sure your email address and notification settings are correct in My Account Profile so that you can receive outbid notification emails. Before even being outbid, you can increase the maximum on any of your PriorityBids by placing a new PriorityBid on the same item for your new maximum amount (don't worry, you can not outbid yourself). Like all bids, PriorityBids are binding and can not be retracted nor reduced.


That pretty much lays it out. Bid what you're willing to go to before the auction starts. You won't know what the actual price is but if you get outbid at any point they will notify you via email and you can up your max bid if you want. If you bid a certain amount first, you get priority if someone else bids the same amount after you.

Also, bids are in $250 increments.

When deciding how much to bid, as I mentioned above, you will have to add in sales tax and transportation costs. That's not all though! You'll also have to factor in title costs as well as a 10% buyer fee! The title option with a Florida state off road title, a SF97 (essentially a federal government title), and a bill of sale will run you $150. Just the bill of sale and SF97 is cheaper but, you'll have to know if your state has any problems with dealing with SF97s. The Florida state title option was developed to help buyers deal with states that have problems with SF97s. Just the bill of sale is cheaper still but that may not be enough for some states. Know what is good for your state or err on the side of caution and get the full package!

I bought my truck for $9500. Between the 6% Kentucky state sales tax, the full titling option, and the 10% buyers fee I ended up with about an extra $1750 added to my purchase price. Then I've got to add in trailer rental and fuel costs to go pick it up.


And here we get to the post auction process.

So you've won your auction! Congratulations!

There are now some steps to take to finalize your purchase.

You will start by going through the checkout process. Here you will decide if you're shipping your truck or transporting it your self, selecting your titling options, and then finalizing the invoice total based on the options. After the invoice is finalized you will pay GovPlanet via wire transfer. Payment must be made within 3 business days or you may incur late fees usually $25-$50 per day depending on final sale price. If you go past a certain time, your item may be considered abandoned and you get charged an even bigger fee. There's also other stuff listed here.

But paying for it isn't the only thing you have to do!

On your account page you will be sent links (on the right hand side of the main account screen) to fill out your Hold Harmless Agreement which gets sent to one email address. You can print it out, physically sign it, and then physically mail it in. You can physically sign it, scan it, and then email it in. Or you can digitally sign it and email it in.

Most importantly, since the HMMWV is a defense article, you will have to fill out an EUC - End Use Certificate. This basically lets Uncle Sam know the final disposition of the item you're buying - if you're going to keep it, sell it, exporting it or not and if you are you have clearance to. This may seem to be a daunting part but GovPlanet has conveniently set up a form wizard that will assist you in filling it out correctly with descriptions of each field needing filled out. You will also need to send in a copy of your driver's license (preferably) or other government issued ID. Make sure your scan/photo of your license is crystal clear or your EUC may get kicked back after a very lengthy initial time period delaying you even further! Just like with the Hold Harmless Agreement you can send it in using one of the previously mentioned methods. It will be emailed to a different email address than the Hold Harmless Agreement though.

Directions are included with both forms.

First time EUC filers like I am can expect a 8-12 week wait. If you've previously filed an EUC with GovPlanet (GovLiquidation not included!) within, I believe the last year, your wait will be considerably shorter. This part is a bit like the whole NFA application and waiting game!


Here I'm getting to the pickup process and since I haven't yet picked up my truck, can only relay what information I've gleaned.

After your payment is received and your EUC is cleared you have 8 business days to remove your truck or you'll incur storage fees. Now, not to worry, if there are incidental delays GovPlanet will work with you so long as you are making a good faith effort to pick it up. This is word straight from a GovPlanet manager on Steel Soldiers. They simply put that there to keep people from abusing the time given to pick up the truck.

To pick up the truck you'll have to schedule a pick up time. If you are picking it up, it should be as simple as it sounds. If you're having a shipper pick it up, the pick up time will have to be coordinated between GovPlanet, your shipper, and you. You don't need to be on site for the shipper to pick it up.

Since I'm fuzzy on this part if you have any questions it would be best to call GovPlanet for clarification at 1-844-225-8799, Monday-Friday 6am-5pm Pacific.


Once you've got your truck at your site, it is not recommended you hop in and start cruising around! Your truck may have been sitting for months or a year or more!

A full fluid change is recommended. Since these are diesels, Shell Rotella T is a good motor oil. Replace other fluids as recommended by AM General. Specifications can be found in military TMs which are available at Steel Soldiers and other sites. Add fresh fuel, draining as needed to get a good mix to burn off the old stuff.

Check all of your important fasteners like lugnuts to make sure they are secure. Some very important fasteners unique to the HMMWV design are the bolts that connect the differential to the half shaft and the half shaft to the geared hubs. These can work their way out and should have some blue Loctite applied to prevent that. If they come loose they can damage brakes and other equipment!

Check for any leaks GovPlanet may have missed.

If you run into anything that was not on your inspection report, report it right away to GovPlanet to take advantage of their Iron Clad Guarantee which basically states they will disclose any problems as best they can. If they examine your claim and find it valid, they will refund a portion of your purchase price. If it's something internal and you knowingly bought a non-running truck don't count on any sort of refund. If you bought what appears to be a complete truck and it's missing say a mirror or seat, or it has some other problem that wasn't listed, you will likely see some money coming back to you. When in doubt file a claim. Worst case they deny it.


Now at this point we get into a topic that Steel Soldiers will not permit on their site: Titling, plating, and insuring for road use.

If you do bring it up, the topic will be deleted and you may be banned. For some reason they think that violating the purchase agreement and putting these trucks on the road will cause Uncle Sam and GovPlanet to stop selling them.

When you sign the Hold Harmless Agreement with GovPlanet, part of it states that you acknowledge the HMMWV is not roadworthy. The Florida title and SF97 are also stamped "Off Road Use Only":




That said, in many states, there are methods of titling off road vehicles for on road use. Check local laws! We've tried to compile instructions for various states below.

(Old Ohio registration information contained within)
Click To View Spoiler

For insurance, a number of companies out there will insure military vehicles. You'll have to call around. Although Steel Soldiers doesn't allow discussion about insuring the HMMWVs for road use, they do have a list of companies that have been known to insure military vehicles.


If you want technical information on the HMMWV there are two great resources

Steel Soldiers
G503.com

Despite my thinking that banning certain discussions about on road use of HMMWVs on Steel Soldiers is stupid, both have excellent information on HMMWVs and other military vehicles. Steel Soldiers also has one thing G503 doesn't which is a section dealing with the intricacies of purchasing from GovLiquidation and GovPlanet. A GovPlanet manager with the username of "Jwade" also participates in the HMMWV purchasing threads there answering questions and helping clear roadblocks you may run into. This thread is a good place to find him. (Update: "Jwade" is no longer with GP, Phil Hasty has filled his role.)


While waiting for my truck I've already started picking up accessories for it. If anyone wants me to I can go into what I've been picking up and why but customizing your truck will come down to what you like!


So, this is where everything currently stands with me. If anyone who has gone further in the process or has more detailed knowledge spots missing/incorrect information could contribute, it would be most appreciated!

HMMWV How-To Tech Links:

• Cutting Down 2 Man Troop Seats To Fit A 4 Man Truck


• Making Soft Half Doors

HMMWV Reference Material:

• HMMWV Operator and Technical Manuals

UPDATED 7/19/2017: State Registration Instructions

Ohio:
As of April 21, 2017 The State Of Ohio Department Of Public Safety, Bureau Of Motor Vehicles, Title Division sent the following Title Broadcast to all state title offices:



This is being used as justification by the BMV to (incorrectly) deny accepting the 3803 forms mentioned previously (to the point of claiming the form no longer exists). There have been conflicting reports of whether the BMV is continuing to accept registration for HMMWVs with valid, on road out of state titles. So far there has been no rescinding of on road titles for currently titled trucks.

THE BELOW IN THE SPOILER BOX FOR THE STATE OF OHIO SHOULD NOT BE USED FOR ANYTHING OTHER THAN INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ON THE PREVIOUS PROCESS!


Click To View Spoiler


Georgia: (Thanks to Lawman734)
The Georgia procedures manual states that to register a former military vehicle, it has to have been titled elsewhere (like a FL or MT title) or an SF97 needs to be provided. You'll need a VIN verification regardless (form is available at the tag office).

SF-97 - Even if it's not in your name, a bill of sale is sufficient from the original owner (GovPlanet) to the new owner (you). This works ok, but you're at the mercy of the clerk regarding the "Off-Road Use Only" part. Many are ok, others get a hassle.

Off-Road Florida titles - These don't seem to be an issue, but again - you're at the mercy of clerk on how they want to handle it given the fact its an off-road title and offroad vehicles in GA don't require registration.

Montana titles - These seem to be the easiest to work with and the most hassle free.

Prepare yourself so that it appears you know what you're doing. Bring the Title/SF97 along with your completed (signed by LEO) VIN Verification form and proof of insurance. It's a good idea to bring a photo of the vehicle and the vehicle data plate for good measure, even if not needed. The sales tax you paid will do you no good for the Georgia taxes and fees, but with proof that you paid in Georgia - contact Iron Planet because they say they'll refund your taxes - I'm still waiting on my check after 3 weeks.


Iowa: (Thanks to beef1911)
In Iowa you can get a Bonded title. All you need is a bill of sale or paid invoice. You have to apply to the DOT (2 weeks to respond), sign a form for military vehicles saying it meets FMVSS standards, get a bond for 1.5x the value of the humvee ($113 for $7500 bond for 3 years), wait for the DOT for 2 more weeks, then they say you can go get it registered. Same process for if you bought a car and did not receive a title. All this was done over email. Except for the registration.


Texas: (Thanks to EagleArmsHBAR)
In Texas, vehicles like a military surplus HMMWV can be registered under several categories:

1) normal registration;
2) antique (if over a particular age); and
3) former military vehicle

If registered as an antique or for more military vehicle, they don't have to pass inspection, but they are then limited on road use. If the vehicle passes inspection and is insured, it can be registered as a regular vehicle.

If all else fails in Texas and they won't accept an SF97 for some reason, a title can be obtained by going the bonded title route. Of course there are additional details with any of these registration methods, but that's the basics.


New York: (Thanks to kevin101)
My experience with NY was pretty simple.

1. I called Geico and was able to insure it pretty easily. It's insured as a normal vehicle with full coverage and didn't cost too much.
2. Brought my insurance card, SF97 marked "off road use only", my reassignment letter from GovPlanet, and the paid invoice from GovPlanet.
3. I handed everything over to the motor vehicle clerk who looked everything over. She mentioned the off road use only stamp but didn't seem to give it much thought and it didn't come up again.
4. Due to the truck not having a standard VIN she had to enter the vehicle manually. The only problem she had was having the computer accept the 6 digit ID number. She called a supervisor over who also looked over the paperwork quickly and the supervisor was able to override the system to enter the 6 digits.
5. I had to pay NY sales tax for the purchase price of the truck. I paid a 6% tax for Kentucky but NY doesn't have a tax agreement with that state. I'm hoping to get a refund from GovPLanet for the KY tax I paid.


Michigan:
Sorry, but anyone in Michigan seems to be out of luck with any sort of surplus HMMWV. Your state hates you. Not only are they denying on road registration of newly purchased auction vehicles but, if you buy a HMMWV legally titled out of state they will contact the state of origin in an attempt to get the title revoked and still refuse to title it on road. I'm betting you'll still run into some sort of issues even with the clear titled M1123s too due to ignorance but, who knows.

I suggest you all get some legislative action going to fix this!


South Carolina: (Thanks to An51960)
for the registration process, in SC, I would avoid the Greenville (University Ridge) location (that's where the lady told me I needed a title rather than a "certificate to obtain title"--she clearly had never seen an SF-97 and did not know what to do with it). After the one lady made several trips to ask other agents how to proceed, she said, "My boss will have to call headquarters." HQ was also clueless about how to proceed, however, they did get on a high horse about the off-road notation and state that there was no way to convert an off-road vehicle to an on-road vehicle (though they did admit that you could build a dune buggy in your garage and get it on the road). I ended up leaving there and going to Woodruff.

At the other location, I buried them in paperwork. I showed them my email where I won the auction, my invoice from gov planet, my email certifying my payment, my notice that my EUC was approved, my bill of sale, my insurance paperwork, my SF-97, and the notarized form transferring ownership from gov planet to me. The attitude at this office was much more figuring out how to help versus how to shut me down. The lady was very confused, but asked a fellow employee how to do things and pushed everything right on through. They told me I was going to have to pay sales tax all over again and get a refund from gov planet for the tax. They said the policy went into effect on 1 July. I pointed out that I had purchased before this date and they let me out of that even though the computer insisted that I pay it again. They kept my invoice showing the payment of state sales tax in case they needed to defend themselves again their own bureaucracy. The lady who issued my temporary tag works at this office and she knew enough to tell me that I would need my government certificate (SF-97) to get a title, so she clearly would've known what it was if she had been the one behind the desk that day.

I would also avoid the Blythewood location since this is where the Greenville office called.



UPDATED 8/7/2017: Insurance

Here's a list of insurance companies that will insure the trucks. Some more easily than others. You should probably call since these aren't standard trucks.

- State Farm
- Geico
- Liberty Mutual
- USAA
- Progressive
- Hagerty

There are other insurance companies that are out there that may insure these trucks so, if you are able to use one not listed, please let me know and I'll add it to the list.



Reputable Parts Suppliers:
So you've got your new HMMWV and are probably now looking for parts to fix one thing or another. Beware there are a lot of new companies popping up to make a quick buck off all of the new HMMWVs hitting the market and may be selling substandard parts.

If you're looking for OEM HMMWV parts there are a couple good sources sources:

- Mac Motors - They carry a couple handy pre-assembled filter kits. Just search for PM-A, PM-B, or PM-C depending on what you need. Otherwise search for your needed part number
- Hummer Parts Guy - Can search by name or part number.
- AM General Direct - Parts direct from AMG. Some good prices, some decent prices on some hard to find items, and some items priced like they're selling them to Uncle Sam.
- Kascar is a popular HMMWV parts dealer but, a number of buyers including myself, believe we have received out of spec reproductions and non-OEM substituted parts. In some instances, Kascar might be the only option available but they I can't really be recommended them as a primary my first go to source.
UPDATE 8/23/2017: Updating this section as Ron from Kascar contacted me personally today after seeing this post, looked me up by my name and order history, and assured me they always supply OEM parts and, to contact them if there are ever any issues with parts quality. In fairness to Kascar, I'd say after several purchases from them since this was made, my experience could best be classified as a "mixed bag" though I hope any and all future purchases are all positive
UPDATE 2/17/2020: I've made several orders with Kascar since the last update with all going well and everything exactly what it was supposed to be.
- Adventure Accessories is another great OEM option but they're geared more towards civilian H1 parts since they're the former Lynch Hummer group.
- BlueHummer Outfitters also sells OEM parts for both HMMWVs and H1s but also has some in house upgrade parts like upgraded spindle nuts, reusable half shaft bolt kits, and flexible caliper side brake lines. BlueHummer has closed up shop. Their items are now carried by Mod Mafia.

Not generally recommended:
Wolfer Parts/ComTac/MotoFino Truck Parts/Augusta Engine Parts has a combination of surplus OEM parts as well as in house manufactured driveline parts like half shafts and suspension parts like ball joints. It appears their "in house" parts are Chinese manufacture but they don't disclose this.

There are some surplus parts dealers out there that are great to deal with like Equipment Parts Sales. If you don't see it on their site, email them direct about what you're looking for. They've told me they don't always have their full inventory up on the website. They'll also work on prices on bundle purchases.

There are a number of surplus parts dealers also selling on eBay. Of them, the most reputable are beltfed34/Austin Aviation and amtak2/Arrowhead Lake XS Surplus. hdps_corp and militarysurplusparts deal in surplus parts but may have limited HMMWV parts. As mentioned, there are a number of others selling surplus parts. Just make sure if you're buying from them and they're claiming new surplus, they have correct military stickers on the packaging with the NSN or, at the least they have good feedback on the surplus they're selling.

Lastly, for surplus and especially hard to find parts, get in touch with Steel Soldiers and G503 member 86humv.

When in doubt though, post here and ask!

Hi guys, I just wanted to introduce myself. I've been watching your builds and they look great! I won my truck on GP and my EUC cleared about a week and a half ago. I picked her up at Fort Riley KS and did the whole road trip. I put her on my trailer and 1700 miles round trip and back to the Western Slope Colorado.
Here's a pic of my truck. If I'm being rude by posting on your thread let me know.

Hell no! Welcome! This thread is for every and all ARFCOM HMMWV owners and really anyone else who wants to join us.

Saw your truck on SS, didn't realize you were a member here too.

Sounds like it was a great trip and experience. My round trip to pick mine up was only about 400 miles but it was a fun experience I won't forget.

Don't be a stranger to the thread and keep us updated on everything!

Thank you for the kind welcome! I'll post all my build/mods!
My trip was really fun but long! FORT RILEY was killer! Talk about a nice base!

Welcome on board. Looks like a nice one. As Ryan said, feel free to post here as its for everyone. I like posting here first as sometimes the guys on Steel Soldiers are a bit rough or negative. Ryan and I have done things to our rigs such as Monstaliner that is somewhat frowned upon on SS.

Any plans on how you are going to build it out? I changed a bunch of times as I worked though it and am still making minor changes.

I have a nice turtle top and nice X Doors that I plan on putting on after the main body and hood get painted. Also converting to hightback seats. Truck runs great.
I've done a oil change, diff 80-90 change and hub 80-90 change
Coolant checks out good. Also put a new keyed ignition in. Tranny fluid smells good,colors good,levels good. One iffy thing is the brake fluid, looks a little darker than I'd like. So I'll change this asap. Looks as if my truck went thru a little overhaul.

(New) wiper motor, wheels and tires, CV's or axles, windshields and rubber,
Transfer case is a new unit.
I do have a question though. My odometer clicks over faster as it should..
Is this because my truck originating came with 36" tires and now it's been updated to 37"? Or do I just have a faulty odometer?

Nice! I've thought the helmet top looks pretty good. Should definitely help keep the leaks down!

With the brake fluid, 2 things. 1) Make sure you've got DOT 5! Nothing else is compatible with it. 2) My truck had amber colored DOT 5 in it. Looked a bit dark. Had to get new DOT 5 to add some to it after some brake work (thought I had a leaking caliper, it wasn't). New stuff was purple! Saw that on pouring it into the reservoir and went into a panic thinking someone had put something else in my truck before I got it. Turns out DOT 5 comes in both. Did the water test and confirmed it was DOT 5. So, if your fluid is a darker amber color it could be perfectly normal. Certainly won't hurt anything to change it though and, mixing purple and amber DOT 5 is okay.

With the odometer, how fast is too fast? Is the speed accurate? Cell phone with a driving app like Waze should be able to help tell you. If the speed is accurate, I'd say something else is off.

Turtle tops are nice and like Ryan said keeps the water out. Slantbacks and some soft tops leak alot. I looked for the one that isn't elevated and couldn't find one as the other one makes it too tall to fit in my garage.

As for the paint, have you decided if you are going to go with CARC or Rapco or Bear Paint?

Reminds me of what happens when you mix Dexcool with just about anything, including air.





That's why I wanted that stuff out of my engine and cooling system.

I'm going with Rapco. I've had good luck with it in the past.
The brake fluid just has a slight tent to it.
As for the speedo it seems to be correct, so I'm guessing there is something wrong with the odometer on the speedo...
the X doors I have are in great shape because I've had them gone over by a friend. I don't know if I wanna put alum skin "armor look" or just keep the X?

I'd toss a new speedo in it as cheap as they are.

Just chuck it on an electric drill for a bit to get the mileage to match up (assuming yours is accurate).

I have X doors and 1 real armored X door (you might see the rear armored one in my light bar pics). Regular X doors are somewhat flimsy when mounted and flex a lot. This is why most have paint issues where the paint pops off. The armor or skins sold on ebay actually make the door rigid and add some sound proofing at the same time. I am debating adding the steel skins to mine to match the one real armor door I have. There are two sellers on ebay and one claims better quality steel than the other, but both would need to be primed and painted.

Thank you for the info. I've also seen aluminium skins as well and I would think that would do the same without the weight, minus the armor factor.
I have a new odometer on its way and I'll swap here out when I disassemble the dash for paint.  

Got a question.. I'm getting pretty good air noise under dash/firewall when I step on the brake pedal and I do know that's somewhat normal but I don't remember the noise with my first humvee about 12 years ago but that's 12 years ago! Anyone know something about that?

Is the sound kinda like a vacuum leak? It is most likely the Cadillac valve on the other side of the fire wall right by the wash fluid reservoir. I think there is a write up on SS on which piece of rubber to buy to insulate it so it wont make the sound.

Your so probably correct! Thanks I'll get some rubber and clamps.

Thanks for the heads up. Got rubber around the caddy valve and FIXED!

Ryan,

I think I saw you driving on mt carmel tobasco rd today. Great looking truck!

Haha! Guilty!

And thanks!

I was up at Bullseye Ink, not for any tattoo work but my truck. My brothers have had work done there and one of the guys is using his artistic talent to do up a stencil for the lion on my quarter panel for me.



Went and ran some errands afterwards and ended up driving by the Union Township municipal complex. Remember the black slantback I posted several pages back at the community show and tell? Apparently they have another truck! was driving by in mine and spotted it so I pulled in and snapped a couple pics.





Just a plain 2 man M998 with a 2" receiver hitch welded on it looks like.


And a small helpful hint for anyone using Scepter cans. The Harbor Freight strap wrench works perfect for taking off and putting on the caps! Picked one up today and had a chance to use it. Super easy now!

Seen on the local news tonight.

Humvee Stolen From Ohio National Guard Armory In Stow

March 23, 2017


This photo shows the same model of Humvee that was stolen overnight Tuesday from an Ohio National Guard Armory in Stow, the state highway patrol said.

A Humvee was stolen from the Ohio National Guard Armory in Stow, officials said Thursday.

The military-grade desert tan Humvee was stolen late Tuesday or early Wednesday, Ohio National Guard spokeswoman Stephanie Beougher said.

The State Highway Patrol, which is investigating the theft, discovered that the thieves cut through a chain link fence sometime to enter the area where the Humvees are stored. The Humvee was locked, but the thieves broke into it and drove away, the Highway Patrol said in a news release.

The Humvee has distinct bumper numbers 174 and 1-145 near its left tail light and HQ-51 near the right tail light, the patrol says.

State patrol investigators have not identified any suspects or witnesses.

Anyone who may know where the Humvee is should call the Ohio State Highway Patrol at 216-265-1677 or dial #677.

I guess someone left the keys in it!





In other news, I just so happened to get a good deal on a fender mount A/C system, some X-doors, 6.5T drivetrain, A2 airlift bumper, ECV hood, and a set of MTRs on 24 bolts!

Totally and completely unrelated to any missing National Guard HMMWVs... I swear!

O god don't even joke they will be at your door in an hour!!! :) LOL

BRB, putting body armor on the dog...

How was the night? You make the dog sleep all night with the armor...! Lol ;)

I let her take it off when we hunkered down for the night.

Lol it just keeps on getting better.
I'm going to mount my fire extinguisher on my engine cover/doghouse today. Mocked up.
I'll get a picture of final install later today.

Do you think it will rattle in that spot? That's why I don't like the original spot. I keep meaning to mount one and have a few ideas in the rear where there are holes in the slant back.

Mounted it tonight. My mount has rubber insulators and it doesn't make any noise at all. I'm very happy with the location because I don't have to reach around to grab it and it's not in the way.

Installed a new thermostat today because I thought mine was stuck open. No change... how much noise should I be getting when I disconnect the two wire for the fan? I hear the fan in-gauge and start moving more air...   I guess my question is , should my fan stay running all the time? When I discount the two wire my fan moves more air. I changed the thermostat because my truck runs cooler than I think it should and take longer than I think it should to heat up also...

The can should not be running all the time. Start by checking the time delay module, then the solenoid,  then the thermostatic switch on the crossover pipe, and last the fan clutch.

Jake-cutter thank you. I'll try all. Does your fan come to a stop?

After reading a ton! I think my Cady valve is dirty/semi clogged. I'll pull her out tomorrow and give her some air and a checkup.

Damn bravo, sorry that new thermostat didn't fix it. The symptoms sure sounded like that. Sorry to make you waste your time on that.

Jake was spot on about the fan not running full bore all the time. When it isn't engaged, it will never be at a full stop though! It will still move a bit with the engine, although slower. When it kicks on it will lock in with the engine speed.

When you disconnect the wires you're turning it on.

After you clean the valve, make sure you follow the procedure to bleed the system of any air.



On my front, the weather here was downright awesome (maybe a little too cloudy if I had to nit pick) so I just had to go out doorless for the first time this year!



Took a trip to pick up some fresh cut steak and some good beer to enjoy earlier this evening.

Can't wait until it's time to go topless!

Also got my lion stencil done and the tattoo artist did a fantastic job of reproducing it! With that out of the way, as soon as we get some consistently warmer weather, painting will commence!

I did have two odd things happen on the trip out though...

1) While I was driving I suddenly heard some glass break. Looking around, I saw a chunk missing from my newly installed mirror to replace the one that broke during the storm. My damn truck just doesn't want a passenger side mirror! Strangest thing, nothing hit it. It just broke driving down the road. I'll take a pic tomorrow.

2) On the final stretch home my turn signal flasher stopped flashing. It will make the directional light brighter but not flash. No flashing indicator on the lever either. Same thing left, right, or hazard. I have noticed sometimes my flashers would blink more quickly but I've never figured out any rhyme or reason to it. It will do it regardless of if it is cold, wet, warm, or dry. Thinking the flasher might be going bad. Going to check the connections tomorrow and double check any grounds.

Love the 2 door the fella up several posts just bought.  Does anyone keep them in that configuration?  I have a narrow garage thats already full of a Honda CRV and a 53 M38A1, and just had to buy a '15 chevy express for work....or I'd be right here with you guys.

Aww don't stress it! I look at it as I have a NEW thermostat and I SHOULDNT have to replace it for awhile!

As for a truck configuration I LOVE IT! But I have two young boys and a wife that like going along so I'm going turtle top. I WILL get a two man and stay with it in the future. Two humvees wouldn't be bad!  ;)

Ryan-Ruck
I love your rig! It looks like it's getting down to business!

Here's the mirror that decided to mysteriously break on it's own.



Only thing I can figure is some sort of existing stress in the glass that got exacerbated by removal from the old mirror housing and temperature change yesterday.

Went out a bit ago and cleaned up the connections at the turn signal flasher and lever then coated everything thoroughly in dielectric grease. Guess I'll wait and see if that took care of it or if it decides to crop up again. A new flasher isn't too expensive but, I'd prefer to not have to replace it if I don't have to.



I've seen several in that configuration. Problem is, everyone usually wants a ride so you've got to maximize passenger space over utility!

If/When I get a 2nd one though, it will be a 2 door. However, it will have a 4 litter ambulance body on it! Really want to build an expedition RV.


Thanks! Still have a way to go on her until she's done!

Took the caddy valve off and cleaned everything out and used some air and my fan is still running.... I have module and temp sensor on order. Anyone have any ideas?

Ryan, I think you need to add cameras in place of the mirrors so you won't keep breaking them. Something like the Pyle 24v 4 camera version.

As for the fan bravojmc, check the crossover switch. It turns the fan on when the temp hits ~220 degrees. This is done by removing the power to the fan solenoid which is the same as unplugging the solenoid connector. Without power the fan engages. I guess you could check to see if its getting power. If no power at that switch then that's why its on. Otherwise the clutch would be my next guess. I see you posted on SS, hopefully Retiredwarhorses will chime in as he has the most experience.

I went to a Hamfest today looking for military radios, but no luck. Tomorrow is the Texas SS rally, but I won't be able to make it. Luckily my parents are going so maybe they will see if anyone is selling a 6.5 hmmwv engine.

Has anyone seen an inverter/power distribution box like in the pics below? Looks plug and play using the existing radio power cable or connecting the radio power cable to the MX7777 switch and then using that to power the inverter. Only problem is I can't find any info. Its from a youtube video and the guy has gone MIA after posting a few vids.

Attached File


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Yeah, I'm thinking about that now... Might not be bad for off road spotting either. Added to my Amazon list.


I love a good mystery!

I do believe that is a power distribution box of some sort. Notice he's got his HWR connected to it with the MIL-DTL-5015 connector that is at the front of the box, the one on the same side as the radio connector. Plus all the other miscellaneous power connectors.

Even downloaded the video at 1080p and played back in slow motion to try and get that number near the MIL-DTL-5015 connector but it's never clear enough.

Still looking...

I applied air to my fan hose about 25 times and my fan is functioning great now!!!

Awesome!

There's no telling how long your truck sat before you picked it up and, you just never know what that sitting will affect.

All in all I can't complain about the condition of my truck.  The fan is the only thing that's given me the run around. Great battery's from day one! Do you guys have anything in the works for your trucks anytime soon?

In no particular order... I've got some titanium exhaust wrap to put on I'm hoping will cool off the cab a little (I'll be be doing this pretty soon, maybe this week or weekend), new shocks to install, new heavy duty ball joints to put in, paint the truck, some new rear marker light buckets to install after painting, weather stripping to put in the door openings also after painting, and a leaky rear pinion seal that needs replaced.

Hoping to have all of that done before the Steel Soldiers rally at Haspin Acres in Indiana in June, which I'm going to be going to. Haven't nailed down which days just yet though.

I've also got a new dual oil filter kit to install but I won't be doing that until I'm ready for my oil change in about 4,000 miles. Even though I've heard the Shell Rotella T is good for more than 10,000 miles, I've decided that's when I'm going to do mine. Should only be 1 oil change a year. With the dual filter kit I could probably go longer but, meh, it's only about $40-$50 a year at that.

I'm also going to be installing some GMV bed rails to make my truck look a little cleaner when the top is off (will help hide the jerry cans and eventual air tank/compressor on the fenders). Lawman is hooking me up with some extra rear post mounts he had. Going to have to get the bed rails and either figure out how to attach them to the C-pillar without interfering with the soft top and rear curtain or, get some front mounts fabbed up that don't involve the C-pillar.

Really want to have my overhead rack fabbed up some time this year so I can start getting all my 12v stuff and LED interior lighting installed. Also want to keep piecing together the deep fording kit and get my rear winch installed this year as well.

And I'm also considering a 2" front suspension lift (just some spring spacers) now that I've added a bunch of weight to the front with the Ibis Tek bumper, winch, and stored recovery gear. You can tell from the pic I just posted the front is a tad low.

So, you could say I've got a few things planned.

Ryan, thanks for looking it is defiantly a mystery. Hopefully we will find it. I found an older version for the M113 pn# 12383862 that has some of the connections. Looks like there were some updates and even contracts out for updated versions as of 2014 for use in an MRAP. At least its a starting point to finding it as it seems like a nice plug and play option.

As for immediate things, I would like to get my engine fixed/upgraded as soon as possible. Looks like it will be a few more weeks. Problem has been getting help to get into it, but my schedule should clear up in the next two weeks, then its finding a 6.5 NA for an HMMWV. I found some others but needs a lot of parts swapped over. Looking for more turn key.

As for other projects, I did get my turret seat installed yesterday.

Attached File


I am also planning on doing a Xplore Tablet, CF19 Toughbook/tablet, or Camera system. If I go with the Toughbook or tablet, I will use USB webcams as rear cameras. There is currently a pic on g503 forums showing a CF19 Toughbook installed. Gives me ideas and size comparisons.

To run the Lights/LEDs and the tablet/cameras above, I keep looking at a sPod. I have talked to them and they assure it is good to go for 24V and have some running in Humvees already. Expensive for what it is, but plug and play for some of the wiring.

Also, I keep looking at the door skins for the set of X doors that I have to match the one armored door that I have. I reached out the to the seller to see how much for a set already painted in CARC tan, but no response. The other ones listed on ebay seem rougher and are spray painted. Trying to minimize prep work.

Last would be a radio of some sort. I keep looking for a military radio that would connect to my VIC 3 intercom, but no luck. Next would be getting a HAM radio and making a patch cable to hook everything together.

I also see some posts on SS about security. I am currently using a Spot Trace that I got on sale for $49. The subscription is ~$100 a year and gives pretty good tracking. I get email and text alerts when movement is detected. I am planning on either hard wiring it or wiring it to a large battery pack. So far the batteries it came with have lasted from December to now. I was surprised it gets a signal inside the vehicle even in my garage. Below is a screen shot showing that it keeps a record of your movements.

Attached File
t

Your truck is sick! Looks great.

Turret install looks excellent Jake!



I always thought my Google-fu was pretty strong but your power distribution box has eluded me. Hopefully someone on SS has seen it. Did come across plenty of other 24VDC to 120VAC converters though...



Looks like those California USMC trucks went for a pretty penny! Most seem to have had 300+ bids as well.



Then take the price and add in the 10% buyer's fee, taxes, and transport costs!

If there are more of these in the pipeline though, it could just end up that these went for what some of the first M998s went for with first buyers paying a premium with follow-on trucks being more reasonably priced.

Yup, I might have snagged the 'bargain' of the Woodland's (with 8 miles on the odo):



Some interesting things about the auction on these 5 trucks (1 desert tan, 2 woodland "straight slantbacks", and 2 woodland "fording slantbacks"):
- There's no banner saying "off-road use only" which is different.  Wonder if they just overlooked that these are the same "family" as the M998's or are covered by a seperate agreement with the Gov and/or GovPlanet.
- Auction page says buyer will have to complete a HHA (Hold Harmless Agreement) before delivery, but after the auction the only link that came up was for the EUC.  I e-mailed GovPlanet asking for a blank HHA, and got a response from the rep that there wasn't one required for this auction.
- The fording kit equipped trucks went crazy expensive... even more than what I've seen it would cost to add the fording kit to add on to mine.  I guess they have the "cool" factor, or folks were getting nervous about not getting one since they went last in the auction line and folks were willing bid them up in order not to lose out on an M1045A2.

I figured the trucks would go for around $30-35K based on what was installed on them (4LE80 tranny, hard doors, hard top/slant back, complete turret assembly, commander's seats, dual-voltage generator, etc.) and after pricing around what it would cost to get a good hard-top/slant-back kit for my M998 and all the extras I think I broke about even (barring any major mechanical issues), maybe a little ahead since this will have the OEM stuff on it vs. the after-market.  I'm sure I'm going to be working some weather sealing issues on the slant-back up here during the rainy season.

I'll post some more pics once it gets paroled out of Yermo and makes its way west, and then the fun will begin to see if it truly looks like the engine has only 8 miles on it, or it's gonna require some substantial "love" to get back up to spec.  Registration should be easy too -- Texas didn't even bat an eye at my "ORUO" stamped SF-97's previously, and this one might not even have the stamp.

Also, here's a pic of the CF-19 install I did to my M998.  It's pretty cool -- added a GPS to the toughbook itself, wired it to a TinyTrack 4 and VHF 2m radio mounted behind the back seat, and have full APRS running (poor civilian man's version of Blue Force Tracker), complete with maps, terrain, other HAM APRS tracking & messaging, etc.  The trick was to find the docking station for the hard-mount to the center deck board  Toughbook Docking Station then the right Lind power adapter to handle the 24V system.  Lind Toughbook Power Adapter 24v .  And Newegg had CF-19 refurbs for about $400 that were easy to upgrade to Windows 10 for free.

Wow! Officially jealous...

Big time congrats!

The funny thing about your truck not carrying a premium because of not having the deep fording kit is... It has the deep fording kit! You'll just need the snorkel and exhaust stack. Maybe the fender reinforcement bracket if it isn't already there. Hard to tell from the pics.

That's certainly a great looking truck and looking forward to more pics.

Great details on the Toughbook install. Certainly considering one of those...

Congrats on your purchase. It looks very clean and turnkey. It will be interesting to see what paperwork these come with and if they were released from the military with the armor and top or if Govplanet assembled them. If straight from the military, that means the demil codes changed so we will be seeing more parts in the future. Either way they are nice and no piecing together a slantback which isn't easy especially in today's market.

Also thanks for posting the CF19. I am leaning that way and using USB web cameras as a backup camera.

Forgot to mention and your post reminded me... I had seen a couple people post on SS that GovPlanet was installing Plan B's doors and in some cases painting them (like the black M1123s). I didn't see any links to back up what was said though.

Ryan, you are right about reading it on SS, but when I went back to check I could not find the info. I wondered why until I read this post on G503. I know SS can be squirrely sometimes. Looks like this may be the beginning of more being released.

As for Gov Planet selling Plan B hummers, I did find the old auctions. This is a Plan B hummer in their shop and located in Utah.

whoever bought plan b paid a little too much...lol