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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Rifle is Complete, Come take a look at Bachbenchers Wedding, End of World, Giveaway Build (Page 1 of 4)
Posted: 5/2/2017 11:25:41 AM EDT
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As some of you know, @backbencher is getting married and had a giveaway as part of his celebration. backbencher's thread
I chose to participate and I've won the chance to build a Flat Spot Lower. I have a year to complete the build, before it would move on the the runner up @sixtigers. I'm probably a week away from starting the build, but I did receive the kit, and after looking at it, my first reaction was what the hell have I gotten myself into... See pic below. Anyway, I'm starting my build thread and I'll update with pictures as I go along. Thanks again, backbencher Also, I encourage any ideas of what kind of rifle you guys want me to turn it into. Something like @raider14's post apocalyptic build or something more standard... Help me decide. 
Updates below There's more pics down the page but heres the TL;DR 
5/5 
5/6 
Test Fired on a known good upper. IT WORKS! Video of test fire on lower 5/8 Almost there 
5/11 
5/15 Raiders sight came in. 
5/16 
5/24 
5/25 
5/26 
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I'd vote for something post apocalyptic (obvious bias  ) or something "retro-futuristic"/alternative history ish. Like wood furniture and if you skim through my big build thread, there was an idea of skinning a trimmed/modded regular upper in square tubing (think AR-180 look externally but all AR-15 internally)
As for help: It's a lot easier if you just opt out of stuff that requires drilling like the safety and bolt catch. Best thing I can recommend is to NOT let it get hot or it will warp like crazy. If you have access to a tig it helps a lot. If mig you may want to grind after every weld for clearance. A vice, vice grips, clamps, bolts, and anything else you can use to keep it rock solid is your friend I'd also grind out the slot for the magazine mag catch lip thing in the magwell beforehand. You'll also need to modify a standard mag catch by building up the part that actually catches onto the mag and maybe some other fitment stuff A Dremel along with opting for some of the "new" legit grinding disks they make will help a lot. They are very high quality and tough while allowing for actual precision grinding that'd usually be left to a file. That being said the disks + mounting bit thing will set you back like $25
Check fitment at every possible moment, if you have a stripped lower or at least an upper to bolt it to it will help Don't worry about the bagillion sharp edges you'll have until you get done
If you have any issues feel free to message me |
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I posted this in another thread that slipped into the archives-
I had some threaded stand-offs cut to .700". Used M4 screws for the trigger and hammer pin holes (M4 screw has a nice fit in a 5/32" hole) and a standard 3/8 bolt for the selector. Blueprint spec for the width on the fire control group pocket is .690" but when you stack up the metal plates that have to fit between the two receiver sides, they equal about .700. So I figured I need to stick to how this receiver was designed and ignore the spec. We are only talking about .005" on each side so I did not figure it would hurt anything. When I tighten the screws hopefully this will minimize distortion when I weld it together. 
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Quoted: I'd also grind out the slot for the magazine mag catch lip thing in the magwell beforehand.
You'll also need to modify a standard mag catch by building up the part that actually catches onto the mag and maybe some other fitment stuff
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I appreciate all the advice, and I'm sure I'll be hitting you guys up for help here and there. Raiders build has inspired me, I think Post apocalyptic is the way to go.
Anyone know where I can buy a steel upper receiver? I think it'd be cool to wrap it in sheet metal and dent it up for a beat up look. And I didn't feel like I had enough small loose parts, so I picked this up while I was out. 
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http://www.weaponeer.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=17072
http://www.weaponeer.net/uploads/files/22208/AR_15_A3_Upper_Receiver_plans.pdf Sagittarii is a credit to the Commonwealth. |
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It's all tacked up. Plenty more to do, but it's one part from a pile of parts. Pins move like they should, the mag falls right out. No idea what I have planned for the buffer tube yet or the front end. I'm thinking of a free floated mag light for my handguard. Things I've learned... those vice grip clamps are an absolute must have for this build. You will need an upper on hand for the assembly process for checking proper alignment and for making sure the mag will insert properly. A tig welder would be a better choice than a mig. |
Holy smokes, dude! I saw the buffer tube boss and thought, uh oh, hope he doesn't misalign it. Next pic was snugged up w/ an upper. Wow!
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Quoted:
Holy smokes, dude! I saw the buffer tube boss and thought, uh oh, hope he doesn't misalign it. Next pic was snugged up w/ an upper. Wow! Did you cut a slot in the mag well, or are you going to build up a standard steel magcatch? I'm still unclear whether that's a do one or the other. But I'm prepared for either now. But being a post apocalyptic build, a little ugly is good! |
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That's the upper I'm going to use. It's a blemish because the forward assist was drilled wrong.
I plan to grind the thing down and make it look less "cast" and more "created" but it's hard not to utilize the flat top for optics.... so it can be practical and neat. |
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Many, many thanks, sublimeshooter. I have given many of these away to friends who weld - you're the first who has gotten after it.
I would like to point out to those following this thread, that even if you don't weld, it costs less than $40 to birth a new gun into the world. A gun without a serial number. This makes liberals cry. Isn't it worth $40 to make liberals cry? Give an 80% lower today. 
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Quoted:
Many, many thanks, sublimeshooter. I have given many of these away to friends who weld - you're the first who has gotten after it. I would like to point out to those following this thread, that even if you don't weld, it costs less than $40 to birth a new gun into the world. A gun without a serial number. This makes liberals cry. Isn't it worth $40 to make liberals cry? Give an 80% lower today. It's far from done, but it's on it's way. I hit up EE WTB for a barrel and gas block. Still have to decide how I want to tackle the buffer tube. To all of those intimidated.... it looks like a ton of random parts. To be truthful, it is... however after you get the trigger assembly together it just kinda comes together and makes sense. edit: @sixtigers I'd be happy to pay it forward to you, since your "runner up" wont pan out  . I am excited to see your methods and build. Pm me and I can either paypal you the kit cost or get your info and send you a kit. And before you say it, it's not about the money.. It's about the idea!
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| @sublimeshooter, that's a very cool offer, but I don't know if my skills are up to it. I'm not a welder by trade, and I'm afraid I really don't know too much about it. Let me watch your build unfold and admire its post-apocalyptic glory, and you hold on to your generous offer! I'm probably going to attempt one of these flats, but I'm afraid I'd feel obligated to display my metal butchery in progress were you to gift me one. This way I can hide my shame and crimes against the welding gods that are sure to surface...! |
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Quoted:
*snip* The thanks and congratulations go to you! Thanks for offering me the opportunity to do something different. It was my obligation to do something with it, and I'm not one to back down from that or a challenge. . Still have to decide how I want to tackle the buffer tube. *snip* ! Quoted:
Quoted:
Many, many thanks, sublimeshooter. I have given many of these away to friends who weld - you're the first who has gotten after it. I would like to point out to those following this thread, that even if you don't weld, it costs less than $40 to birth a new gun into the world. A gun without a serial number. This makes liberals cry. Isn't it worth $40 to make liberals cry? Give an 80% lower today. The thanks and congratulations go to you! Thanks for offering me the opportunity to do something different. It was my obligation to do something with it, and I'm not one to back down from that or a challenge. . Still have to decide how I want to tackle the buffer tube. *snip* ! ETA: just noticed you're in OH too. I'm up in NEO but I get around. |
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It's welded up, and parts installed. The mag release block was too pretty when I had it all sanded nice, so I cut it off and added bubblegum to ugly it up as well as other welds. This is post apocalyptic afterall.
Time for your creative minds to help me with the rest of it's look! 
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Quoted:
I have a tap for the buffer tower if you need to borrow one. LMK. I have a few of these on the back burner I don't have any intentions of getting to immediately. ETA: just noticed you're in OH too. I'm up in NEO but I get around. |
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Parts are in and it seems to function properly. My only real hiccup today was the trigger plate, I had to mill it down for the trigger to function. weight reduction
Also, the mag release does need built up along with the plate ground down. It is not a one or the other kinda thing. |
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Quoted: Parts are in and it seems to function properly. My only real hiccup today was the trigger plate, I had to mill it down for the trigger to function. weight reduction I got my AR15Mold.com mod in today, and am going to try to cast a chocolate 80% lower first. I'll start a thread on that and link it here. 
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Quoted:
That's been noted in other builds - it's not clear if everyone has that problem or not. Love the mag fence. I've tried bolting together a cracked $20 Sabre Defense (Cav Arms Mk2) from Trinity Ordnance (sold as cracked, hence the price), and found I'd threaded the inside of the rear take down lug in my upper. Obviously you're not worried about this upper, but keep that in mind down the road. I might suggest wing nuts for the rear take down pin - or cotter pins. I got my AR15Mold.com mod in today, and am going to try to cast a chocolate 80% lower first. I'll start a thread on that and link it here. Yeah, I don't care about this upper at all for the $5 I have in it. The bolts shoulder goes clear through the lower, so it cant thread anything but that's a good thing to be mindful on. I had the same idea you just suggested, I just haven't decided on which. I'm leaning towards wing nuts. |
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http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_5/1991248_The-delicious-80--chocolate-lower-thread.html
It'll have to be milk - that's what FW_wife likes.
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Dude, you need to force a patina on that. IMO it'll look awesome. Personally I use a mixture of lemon juice, fresh coffee grounds, white, and cider vinegar, before letting blades sit surrounded by it for ~45 minutes to an hour. Here's a Mora that I did this soak to.
Attached File |
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Quoted:
Dude, you need to force a patina on that. IMO it'll look awesome. Personally I use a mixture of lemon juice, fresh coffee grounds, white, and cider vinegar, before letting blades sit surrounded by it for ~45 minutes to an hour. Here's a Mora that I did this soak to.
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/207715/IMG-7211-157507.JPG I had no intention of painting it, so this idea is great. It'll look way better than rust. |
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Use bones. I have cow bones from a beef that I feed my dag... Seriously though, I know nothing about the bone patina thing... I could google, but rein some quick knowledge on those who might come across this post if you wouldn't mind. |
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I'm halfway between Akron and Youngstown off 76. If you are close, then that will make my buffer dilemma far far easier. I could just come to your house with a 12'r of your choice and let you do some magic on it. Quoted:
Quoted:
I have a tap for the buffer tower if you need to borrow one. LMK. I have a few of these on the back burner I don't have any intentions of getting to immediately. ETA: just noticed you're in OH too. I'm up in NEO but I get around. |
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Quoted: Following.
Never welded at all, but I plan on ordering a welder before June. Hoping to mess around this summer with the kit backbencher sent me. 
I think I've even got a theme picked out.  http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_19/689044_Zombie-Welding--Kitties--Back-from-the-dead-Welding-Thread.html |
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Quoted:
Following. Never welded at all, but I plan on ordering a welder before June. Hoping to mess around this summer with the kit backbencher sent me.
I think I've even got a theme picked out. I wasn't planning to start my build this quick, but the kit was staring at me, and I think even calling out to me. |
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Quoted: And how does one go about getting bones? Are some bones better than other bones? What caliber is sufficient? This is AR15.com and I've read GD. I don't own a G19, or a .308, so I may be shit out of luck in killing anything to obtain said bones. Unless it's bird bones, I do have a shotgun!
I have cow bones from a beef that I feed my dag... Seriously though, I know nothing about the bone patina thing... I could google, but rein some quick knowledge on those who might come across this post if you wouldn't mind. www.brownells .com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/color-case-hardening/color-case-hardening-kit-prod1026.aspx (broken link b/c of Avantlink) If done right, as Turnbull does it, it produces beautiful colored patterns on the thin hardened surface of the steel - as Colt originally did on their revolvers in the 1800's. Basically, under high heat the carbon migrates from the bone to the steel it's rubbing against - and some of the calcium comes over as well, making the pretty colors. You don't have to buy Brownell's kit - you can use any old bones in your furnace. It hardens the surface of the steel, leaving the inside soft. |
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Stop the suspense! Whats your theme??? I wasn't planning to start my build this quick, but the kit was staring at me, and I think even calling out to me.
Mines sitting on my bench, mocking me with taunts of inadequacy.
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Quoted:
This seems to be a pretty good intro to welding thread: http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_19/689044_Zombie-Welding--Kitties--Back-from-the-dead-Welding-Thread.html But... For these kits, I strongly recommend using a gas set up vs flux core if you're using a mig setup. |
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Quoted: I'm a going to see if I can teach myself to weld first, then I'll reveal.
Mines sitting on my bench, mocking me with taunts of inadequacy. Now, if you're gonna save yourself a cool couple of thousand on a Turnbull color-case hardened receiver w/ a $37 kit, you're probably gonna need some skills. To replicate what Raider14's doing? You need to be able to tack some parts together & have a redneck engineering spirit. If you're gonna build yourself a Tok lower that takes PPSh41 or Suomi drums, you've got to be damn good w/ a Dremel, or have a proper mill. I almost got one of these together w/ super glue - tack welding won't be pretty but it should work. |
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Quoted:
It's called color case hardening, from prior to the high carbon steel age - which is handy, as your lower is of mild steel. www.brownells .com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/color-case-hardening/color-case-hardening-kit-prod1026.aspx (broken link b/c of Avantlink) If done right, as Turnbull does it, it produces beautiful colored patterns on the thin hardened surface of the steel - as Colt originally did on their revolvers in the 1800's. Basically, under high heat the carbon migrates from the bone to the steel it's rubbing against - and some of the calcium comes over as well, making the pretty colors. You don't have to buy Brownell's kit - you can use any old bones in your furnace. It hardens the surface of the steel, leaving the inside soft. |
| I'm meeting AFCarbon15 tomorrow to thread my lower. (This site has great people, and its amazing how close some are) So I'm foing.... and if it turns out to be an Arock ordeal, It was nice knowing you all. But make him finish the build and tell him I expect he better have got top dollar for my kidneys! |
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Ah, but fancy guns have it today b/c it brings back memories of expensive rare guns of yesteryear. But the remaining guns of yesteryear are expensive b/c they are rare, and they are rare b/c they are the guns of yesteryear. They were made from mild steel, and to get that steel up to the point where it could hold the gun together, it was color case-hardened b/c it was low carbon steel, and that's what works, and it can be done by any damn fool w/ a charcoal fire and some bones.
So post-apocalypse, many guns will be color-case hardened, due to the high availability of bones - and a lack of high carbon steel. |
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Quoted:
I've never tried to do a patina... I like this idea. Any particular mix ratio to those ingredients? I had no intention of painting it, so this idea is great. It'll look way better than rust. Quoted:
Quoted:
Dude, you need to force a patina on that. IMO it'll look awesome. Personally I use a mixture of lemon juice, fresh coffee grounds, white, and cider vinegar, before letting blades sit surrounded by it for ~45 minutes to an hour. Here's a Mora that I did this soak to.
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/207715/IMG-7211-157507.JPG I had no intention of painting it, so this idea is great. It'll look way better than rust. |
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Made a big leap today with the help of @AFCarbon 15. I met with him to thread lower for the buffer assembly. He's a pretty cool guy and I had a great time over a few beers getting it threaded. After it was threaded he had some parts laying around to test the lower out. Through some brainstorming we came up with a handle idea, which you can see in the picture.
Great news, it fires! Before we parted ways I bought a few parts off him I needed for it, so now all that's left needed for parts is a barrel and sights.
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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Rifle is Complete, Come take a look at Bachbenchers Wedding, End of World, Giveaway Build (Page 1 of 4)
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