AR Sponsor
Posted: 10/18/2016 2:13:47 PM EDT
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Please present your home built tooling or production tooling which has been modified to fit your specific need. Pretty much anything is game here for assembling/building/modifying AR 15's. Including: Jigs or fixtures for performing repairs/modifications/installations Fixtures for holding components or other modifications to milling machines/lathes/drill presses Previous threads have been started about workstations and parts organization so unless yours is really unique let's skip those. materials you used and details on how to build/assemble the tool. Measurements are a plus. Post Script: I realize that many of you have already posted your creative work in other threads over the years. It would be beneficial to have some of those great ideas posted here again so it can be found more easily. I've only been a member here for less than year and half, I'm sure I missed a lot of good posts on this subject matter. |
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I'll start it off. Built this holding fixture to keep a barreled upper square for drilling/pinning an A2 FSB in a drill press. I'm still tweaking it a bit but it should work fine. It does not line up the FSB like the BRD Engineering Jig. This is not a jig, just a holding fixture so the holes can be drilled perpendicular to the barrel on two planes. Materials: 24" of 4" channel iron 8" of 2" X 2" X 1/4" angle iron 5 3/4" of 1" X 2" oak 2 small bar clamps for holding upper receiver (nearly any screw type clamp will work) 1 small "C" clamp for squeezing FSB journal  Structural steel is not made for building semi-precise instruments! Tweaking was necessary. (re-checked it with my machinist's square later)  |
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So I needed to put an already drilled FSB on my 603 clone. So I trued up an aluminum block.
Then milled out a pocket to accept the barrel extension. Slip the block on place a level on it. Top side up I drilled the gas port. Next flip it over and still use the level and locate and file for the taper pins. I put one level on my block and another on the bayonet lug. It worked ! . 
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Great stuff so far. That bolt holding tool for compressing the ejector is a piece of work....very nice. AFCarbon15........where are you?......(crickets chirping) You've posted some pretty cool stuff in the past, would like to see you re-posted some of it here. Here's another one of mine. Anybody buy one of those steel receiver puzzles, ya know- that bag of flat metal parts you got in the mail and now it's laying in your gun cabinet? I have one for a rainy (or snowy) day project but started doing some pre-planning on how to put it together correctly so it is square and true. I figured the most important part is the fire control group area so I figured I'd get that right and work from there. I had some threaded stand-offs cut to .700". Used M4 screws for the trigger and hammer pin holes (M4 screw has a nice fit in a 5/32" hole) and a standard 3/8 bolt for the selector. Blueprint spec for the width on the fire control group pocket is .690" but when you stack up the metal plates that have to fit between the two receiver sides, they equal about .700. So I figured I need to stick to how this receiver was designed and ignore the spec. We are only talking about .005" on each side so I did not figure it would hurt anything. When I tighten the screws hopefully this will minimize distortion when I weld it together.    |
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Custom Adapter for BROWNELLS BARREL EXTENSION TORQUE TOOL
I did not like using a breaker bar or positioning vertically so I made this adapter. It now works like a Geissele reaction rod but at half the price. All you need is a square drive socket from Harbor Freight, a piece of scrap metal and a friend with a MIG welder. 
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