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Posted: 7/19/2013 2:33:34 AM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By BigPolska:
There was a you tube video, I wish I could remember more, but the fella used a Lee hand priming tool and shell holder. He would pop the case in the shell holder, and squeeze the priming handle, and this would make the case easier to hold onto, and prevent it from spinning while trimming. I think the trick was to use the large primer ram, it would still clear the hole in the shell holder, but would not fit the small primer hole in the case, this would allow the priming tool to operate as a lever operated case holder. HTH Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By BigPolska:
Originally Posted By TOTHEMAX:
Does anyone have any tips/tricks to holding onto the brass while trimming with the giraud? I have a hard time holding onto the brass as it tends to spin in between my fingers. I have tried gloves and pliers but was curious if there is something else. Any help would be appreciated. There was a you tube video, I wish I could remember more, but the fella used a Lee hand priming tool and shell holder. He would pop the case in the shell holder, and squeeze the priming handle, and this would make the case easier to hold onto, and prevent it from spinning while trimming. I think the trick was to use the large primer ram, it would still clear the hole in the shell holder, but would not fit the small primer hole in the case, this would allow the priming tool to operate as a lever operated case holder. HTH I saw this before I bought mine and was concerned. I had the same problem at first but I realized that in most cases the ones that grabbed I could enter them slowly and the trimmer would take off the offending bur that was causing the sticking. |
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Posted: 7/20/2013 12:04:09 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TOTHEMAX: Does anyone have any tips/tricks to holding onto the brass while trimming with the giraud? I have a hard time holding onto the brass as it tends to spin in between my fingers. I have tried gloves and pliers but was curious if there is something else. Any help would be appreciated. A pliers like tool that holds brass during case prep. Been advertised in Handloader magazine. |
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Posted: 7/20/2013 4:42:44 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
A pliers like tool that holds brass during case prep. Been advertised in Handloader magazine. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
Originally Posted By TOTHEMAX:
Does anyone have any tips/tricks to holding onto the brass while trimming with the giraud? I have a hard time holding onto the brass as it tends to spin in between my fingers. I have tried gloves and pliers but was curious if there is something else. Any help would be appreciated. A pliers like tool that holds brass during case prep. Been advertised in Handloader magazine. Wowza, those aren't cheap. Looks like they work pretty well though. |
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Posted: 7/20/2013 4:56:12 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
Dismal failure. They wouldn't feed. Insert mag, close bolt chambering round, fire, and next round would nose dive in mag. I quit after 4 cycles of this. Pulled the bullets, experiment over. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
Originally Posted By jgieske:
Dryflash, I remember you loaded some 30 carbine to try earlier in the thread but I don't remember you talking about how they performed. Are they worth it for cheap plinking purposes? If so, what load? I just bought an AAC mpw 16inch and I'm currently gathering components. Seems like the cheapest option. Jeff Dismal failure. They wouldn't feed. Insert mag, close bolt chambering round, fire, and next round would nose dive in mag. I quit after 4 cycles of this. Pulled the bullets, experiment over. I am planning to purchase an H&R handi-rifle in .300BLK. Do you think the 110gr FMJ bullets would do well in a single shot? I am thinking that being a single shot it would be much easier to load for since feed issues would not be a part of the equation. |
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Posted: 7/20/2013 6:34:56 PM EDT
[#5]
Apparently my iPad didn't post yesterday...
To hold a case for the trimmer: A pair of needle nosed pliers with one leg inserted into the primer pocket and the other leg grasping the edge of the case's base will get you where you need to be. To reduce fatigue of the user's hand, be sure the pliers have a spring to assist in opening the pliers.
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OH, USA
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Posted: 7/20/2013 8:09:45 PM EDT
[#6]
So I just bought the Hornady headspace gauge kit for use with calipers. I assume the 350 bushing is used for 300blk, correct? Also, if headspace is in perfect saami spec, what should the caliper read? My goal is to set my sizing die more precisely. I use the RCBS precision case mic for .223 for this purpose but they haven't jumped on the blackout bandwagon yet.
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KY, USA
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Posted: 7/20/2013 9:51:55 PM EDT
[#7]
Haven't bought any factory 300 BLK to measure but info I've read is that with the 350 insert factory Remington cases measure approximately 1.068". I've also read that some factory cases measure even less. Also it seems chamber headspaces from reports can be short and some seem to have trouble with their sizing dies not being able to push the shoulder back enough. You'll have to check some fired brass from your rifle to get an idea of your chambers headspace. I have two AR's from the same manufacturer and they both have the exact headspace which by the way is on the maximum side of specs. My fired brass is approximately 1.075" meaning the chamber is probably a couple thousandths longer. I size the brass trying to get about 1.073" measured with the 350 insert from the Hornady Headspace set. My Hornady sizing die will push the shoulder back to what the factory Remington 300 BLK was reported to be at 1.068-1.069 with firm contact with the shellholder. I have to back it off to get my 1.073"
Your brass fired in your rifle and your brass brand may make your measurements totally different than mine. |
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KY, USA
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Posted: 7/20/2013 10:12:35 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
Dismal failure. They wouldn't feed. Insert mag, close bolt chambering round, fire, and next round would nose dive in mag. I quit after 4 cycles of this. Pulled the bullets, experiment over. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
Originally Posted By jgieske:
Dryflash, I remember you loaded some 30 carbine to try earlier in the thread but I don't remember you talking about how they performed. Are they worth it for cheap plinking purposes? If so, what load? I just bought an AAC mpw 16inch and I'm currently gathering components. Seems like the cheapest option. Jeff Dismal failure. They wouldn't feed. Insert mag, close bolt chambering round, fire, and next round would nose dive in mag. I quit after 4 cycles of this. Pulled the bullets, experiment over. These run awesome in my 700 Bolt AAC-SD. I am running them over 18 grains of LilGun. I plink with them all the time at the range. Out of 300 I only have about 100 left. Time to buy some more. |
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OH, USA
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Posted: 7/20/2013 10:31:11 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By rg1:
Haven't bought any factory 300 BLK to measure but info I've read is that with the 350 insert factory Remington cases measure approximately 1.068". I've also read that some factory cases measure even less. Also it seems chamber headspaces from reports can be short and some seem to have trouble with their sizing dies not being able to push the shoulder back enough. You'll have to check some fired brass from your rifle to get an idea of your chambers headspace. I have two AR's from the same manufacturer and they both have the exact headspace which by the way is on the maximum side of specs. My fired brass is approximately 1.075" meaning the chamber is probably a couple thousandths longer. I size the brass trying to get about 1.073" measured with the 350 insert from the Hornady Headspace set. My Hornady sizing die will push the shoulder back to what the factory Remington 300 BLK was reported to be at 1.068-1.069 with firm contact with the shellholder. I have to back it off to get my 1.073" Your brass fired in your rifle and your brass brand may make your measurements totally different than mine. Yeah I figured I'd have to wait until I had some fired cases and go off of that number but I haven't fired any yet. I'm just now getting all the components and I'm about to start forming cases for the first time. I just wanted a number to go off of initially. Thanks for the input. |
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Posted: 7/20/2013 10:59:55 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By OIF_Vet08-09: Dismal failure. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By OIF_Vet08-09: Originally Posted By dryflash3: Originally Posted By jgieske: Dryflash, I remember you loaded some 30 carbine to try earlier in the thread but I don't remember you talking about how they performed. Are they worth it for cheap plinking purposes? If so, what load? I just bought an AAC mpw 16inch and I'm currently gathering components. Seems like the cheapest option. Jeff Dismal failure. They wouldn't feed. Insert mag, close bolt chambering round, fire, and next round would nose dive in mag. I quit after 4 cycles of this. Pulled the bullets, experiment over. I am planning to purchase an H&R handi-rifle in .300BLK. Do you think the 110gr FMJ bullets would do well in a single shot? I am thinking that being a single shot it would be much easier to load for since feed issues would not be a part of the equation. Nothing wrong with 110 gr bullets in general for use in 300 blk. The bullets I'm talking about were meant for 30 carbine and don't feed through an AR. The blunt nose RN type. 110 gr bullets with a spitzer shape feed fine in an AR. Other action types may not have this problem, especially single shots. |
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Posted: 7/22/2013 8:33:41 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
A pliers like tool that holds brass during case prep. Been advertised in Handloader magazine. http://brassgripper.com/ Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
Originally Posted By TOTHEMAX:
Does anyone have any tips/tricks to holding onto the brass while trimming with the giraud? I have a hard time holding onto the brass as it tends to spin in between my fingers. I have tried gloves and pliers but was curious if there is something else. Any help would be appreciated. A pliers like tool that holds brass during case prep. Been advertised in Handloader magazine. http://brassgripper.com/ I think I remember seeing those. If I keep tearing up my fingers, those may be in my future. I did use a pair of spark plug pliers with success but they were awkward. |
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WI, USA
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Posted: 7/22/2013 1:54:23 PM EDT
[Last Edit: kR-15]
[#12]
Chrony results and my 300 AAC recipes are Here if anyone is interested
I add recipes as I work them up- planning on subsonic LilGun and 190gr SMK in the next 5 or 6 weeks |
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Posted: 7/22/2013 4:47:05 PM EDT
[Last Edit: m411b30]
[#13]
I needed to do some testing of the Nosler 150gn BT, and Nosler 125gn Accubond, and I know some here were interested in this as well. So, here goes:
I did the testing using a 55 gallon drum filled with water, and used a 12ft step ladder to shoot down into the water to capture the bullets. Disclaimer: I am not in any way, shape, or form saying this is safe! On the Left, 125gn Accubond @ 1950fps, and on the right is the 150gn Ballistic tip @ 1825fps: 
The weight retention for both:  
Weight retention for 150gn Ballistic tip with the core on the scale: 
So you can see that the Accubond is actually way better for staying together. Hope this helps some. 
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Posted: 7/23/2013 9:48:30 AM EDT
[#14]
When it comes to trimming, cutting, forming brass. What order do you guys use that works best or is the only way to do it? Im getting into reloading specially forming my 300 but im a bit confused when it comes to the cutting and trimming.
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Posted: 7/23/2013 9:52:29 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ycastane:
When it comes to trimming, cutting, forming brass. What order do you guys use that works best or is the only way to do it? Im getting into reloading specially forming my 300 but im a bit confused when it comes to the cutting and trimming. The way that makes the most sense is: 1. Cut 2. Form 3. Trim If you form before you cut, you will need to remove the expander ball from your die. |
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Posted: 7/23/2013 10:21:59 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By John87:
The way that makes the most sense is: 1. Cut 2. Form 3. Trim If you form before you cut, you will need to remove the expander ball from your die. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By John87:
Originally Posted By ycastane:
When it comes to trimming, cutting, forming brass. What order do you guys use that works best or is the only way to do it? Im getting into reloading specially forming my 300 but im a bit confused when it comes to the cutting and trimming. The way that makes the most sense is: 1. Cut 2. Form 3. Trim If you form before you cut, you will need to remove the expander ball from your die. Good deal. Thanks!! |
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Posted: 7/23/2013 2:45:31 PM EDT
[#17]
Not sure if this has been asked before but, down to what size do you guys cut the brass? and then down to what size do you trim? Whats the final measurement for the brass??
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Posted: 7/23/2013 6:20:21 PM EDT
[Last Edit: EvilBetty]
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ycastane:
Not sure if this has been asked before but, down to what size do you guys cut the brass? and then down to what size do you trim? Whats the final measurement for the brass?? I cut down to 1.370" or a little less. Then after resizing trim down to 1.355". SAMMI maximum is 1.368" |
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Posted: 7/23/2013 8:28:54 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By xtreme762: I needed to do some testing of the Nosler 150gn BT, and Nosler 125gn Accubond, and I know some here were interested in this as well. So, here goes: I did the testing using a 55 gallon drum filled with water, and used a 12ft step ladder to shoot down into the water to capture the bullets. Disclaimer: I am not in any way, shape, or form saying this is safe! On the Left, 125gn Accubond @ 1950fps, and on the right is the 150gn Ballistic tip @ 1825fps: http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/3952/cvzj.jpg The weight retention for both: http://imageshack.us/a/img35/5089/a4je.jpghttp://imageshack.us/a/img543/7903/wmt3.jpg Weight retention for 150gn Ballistic tip with the core on the scale: http://imageshack.us/a/img834/6905/aup4.jpg So you can see that the Accubond is actually way better for staying together. Hope this helps some. The 150 Nosler BT looks a bit like the ones I shot into water. What was your powder charge (and with what powder) with each bullet if you don't care to mention it. Thanks for the pics and info. |
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Posted: 7/23/2013 9:41:11 PM EDT
[Last Edit: m411b30]
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By rob99rt:
The 150 Nosler BT looks a bit like the ones I shot into water. What was your powder charge (and with what powder) with each bullet if you don't care to mention it. Thanks for the pics and info. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By rob99rt:
Originally Posted By xtreme762:
I needed to do some testing of the Nosler 150gn BT, and Nosler 125gn Accubond, and I know some here were interested in this as well. So, here goes: I did the testing using a 55 gallon drum filled with water, and used a 12ft step ladder to shoot down into the water to capture the bullets. Disclaimer: I am not in any way, shape, or form saying this is safe! On the Left, 125gn Accubond @ 1950fps, and on the right is the 150gn Ballistic tip @ 1825fps: http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/3952/cvzj.jpg The weight retention for both: http://imageshack.us/a/img35/5089/a4je.jpghttp://imageshack.us/a/img543/7903/wmt3.jpg Weight retention for 150gn Ballistic tip with the core on the scale: http://imageshack.us/a/img834/6905/aup4.jpg So you can see that the Accubond is actually way better for staying together. Hope this helps some. The 150 Nosler BT looks a bit like the ones I shot into water. What was your powder charge (and with what powder) with each bullet if you don't care to mention it. Thanks for the pics and info. Nosler 150gn Ballistic tip @ 1825fps. 15gn Lil'gun FEDGM205M primer 2.22" COAL Nosler 125gn Accubond @ 1950fps. 16gn H110 CCI 41 primer 2.10" COAL I'll be sticking to the Accubond's. I'm gonna try to find some 150gn Accubond's if I can. I think they would hold together a little better. Keep in mind this is out of a 10.5" barrel also. Have a 14.5" on the way, so velocities will go up a bit. According to Quick Load, I still have quite a bit of room left on both of these loads. But settled with these as good reliable loads. No feeding issues out of ANY mags! ETA: If you look close at the Accubond in the above picture. You can see where the lead swallowed the polymer tip.
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Posted: 7/24/2013 8:42:31 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By EvilBetty:
I cut down to 1.370" or a little less. Then after resizing trim down to 1.355". SAMMI maximum is 1.368" Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By EvilBetty:
Originally Posted By ycastane:
Not sure if this has been asked before but, down to what size do you guys cut the brass? and then down to what size do you trim? Whats the final measurement for the brass?? I cut down to 1.370" or a little less. Then after resizing trim down to 1.355". SAMMI maximum is 1.368" So as long as you stay below 1.368" you are okay? I would guess not to low either but as a general idea. Just trying to understand all of this since im beginning to get into loading, specially with the 300 and all the cutting and stuff. |
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Posted: 7/24/2013 10:12:54 AM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ycastane: So as long as you stay below 1.368" you are okay? I would guess not to low either but as a general idea. Just trying to understand all of this since im beginning to get into loading, specially with the 300 and all the cutting and stuff. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ycastane: Originally Posted By EvilBetty: I cut down to 1.370" or a little less. Then after resizing trim down to 1.355". SAMMI maximum is 1.368" So as long as you stay below 1.368" you are okay? I would guess not to low either but as a general idea. Just trying to understand all of this since im beginning to get into loading, specially with the 300 and all the cutting and stuff. |
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Posted: 7/24/2013 10:48:47 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By xtreme762: Nosler 150gn Ballistic tip @ 1825fps. 15gn Lil'gun FEDGM205M primer 2.22" COAL snip... |
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Posted: 7/24/2013 10:54:31 AM EDT
[#24]
Anyone have any leads on data for 247gr lead projectiles with Lil'Gun
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Posted: 7/24/2013 11:38:31 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By coug91:
Max length is 1.368", with minimum 1.348". I trim to 1.360". Nice round number. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By coug91:
Originally Posted By ycastane:
Originally Posted By EvilBetty:
I cut down to 1.370" or a little less. Then after resizing trim down to 1.355". SAMMI maximum is 1.368" So as long as you stay below 1.368" you are okay? I would guess not to low either but as a general idea. Just trying to understand all of this since im beginning to get into loading, specially with the 300 and all the cutting and stuff. Good deal!! Thanks!!!! |
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Posted: 7/24/2013 9:27:51 PM EDT
[#26]
Getting my barrel in the mail tomorrow! I can't wait to get into the black out game.
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Posted: 7/24/2013 9:50:33 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By OIF_Vet08-09:
I am planning to purchase an H&R handi-rifle in .300BLK. Do you think the 110gr FMJ bullets would do well in a single shot? I am thinking that being a single shot it would be much easier to load for since feed issues would not be a part of the equation. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By OIF_Vet08-09:
Originally Posted By dryflash3:
Originally Posted By jgieske:
Dryflash, I remember you loaded some 30 carbine to try earlier in the thread but I don't remember you talking about how they performed. Are they worth it for cheap plinking purposes? If so, what load? I just bought an AAC mpw 16inch and I'm currently gathering components. Seems like the cheapest option. Jeff Dismal failure. They wouldn't feed. Insert mag, close bolt chambering round, fire, and next round would nose dive in mag. I quit after 4 cycles of this. Pulled the bullets, experiment over. I am planning to purchase an H&R handi-rifle in .300BLK. Do you think the 110gr FMJ bullets would do well in a single shot? I am thinking that being a single shot it would be much easier to load for since feed issues would not be a part of the equation. I own a Handi rifle in 300 Blk. Shoots several factory loaded 110 grn bullets very well. Shoots Remington 220 grn subsonics with my 7.62 SD can very well also. I just got my dies delivered today so I don't have handloads worked up yet. Have some 200 grn BTSPs to try for subsonic work |
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Posted: 7/25/2013 6:20:27 AM EDT
[Last Edit: garyd]
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By InfiniteGrim:
Anyone have any leads on data for 247gr lead projectiles with Lil'Gun 8.3 gr has given me 1020fps out of a 9.5 inch barreled AR. 6.8gr has given me 980 fps out of a AAC Model 7 |
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WI, USA
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Posted: 7/25/2013 10:31:00 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By garyd:
8.3 gr has given me 1020fps out of a 9.5 inch barreled AR. 6.8gr has given me 980 fps out of a AAC Model 7 Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By garyd:
Originally Posted By InfiniteGrim:
Anyone have any leads on data for 247gr lead projectiles with Lil'Gun 8.3 gr has given me 1020fps out of a 9.5 inch barreled AR. 6.8gr has given me 980 fps out of a AAC Model 7 Try this - it should get you close enough to tune the charge to your desired Velocity Load data halfway down the page |
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Posted: 7/25/2013 11:59:21 AM EDT
[#30]
Sweet thanks guys....
CORE15 9½", pistol gas, Spikes ST-2 buffer, 100% stock. I think a ST-2 is 4.3 oz instead of the 4.6 for a H2. 180g Hornady SST, 8.4g Lil' Gun, cycles and locks open on an empty mag with and without a can. 200g SGK, 8.7 Lil' Gun, cycles and locks open on an empty mag with and without a can. 208 A-Max, 8.2 Lil'Gun, cycles and locks open on an empty mag with and without a can. 220g SMK, 8.7 Lil' Gun, cycles and locks open on an empty mag with and without a can. 245g MBC, 8.4 Lil' Gun, cycles and locks open on an empty mag with and without a can. Alpha Sports 10½", pistol gas, standard carbine buffer, 100% stock. 180g Hornady SST, 8.4g Lil' Gun, cycles and locks open on an empty mag with and without a can. 200g SGK, 8.7 Lil' Gun, cycles and locks open on an empty mag with a can, unknown without can 208 A-Max, 8.2 Lil'Gun, cycles and locks open on an empty mag with and without a can. 220g SMK, 8.7 Lil' Gun, cycles and locks open on an empty mag with and without a can. 245g MBC, 8.4 Lil' Gun, cycles and locks open on an empty mag with and without a can. |
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WI, USA
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Posted: 7/26/2013 2:00:08 PM EDT
[#31]
Here is a list of my proven load recipes with avg velocities to date:300 AAC load recipes. I plan to add 190gr SMK and other powder data over the next few months as I work up those loads.
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Posted: 7/29/2013 12:11:37 AM EDT
[Last Edit: InfiniteGrim]
[#32]
I am seriously impressed with this Rainier arms 10.5" barrel with a pistol gas length system. I have not loaded a single road yet out of 280 test loads that failed to cycle the rifle. I loaded a 168gr SMK to subsonic levels and it cycled fine. I started at 8gr of LIL gun and it felt like shooting a .22, I thought it didn't even cycle at first, I had to hand it to my brother to try to make sure I wasnt going crazy.
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WI, USA
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Posted: 7/29/2013 12:20:56 PM EDT
[#33]
What is the projectile on the right side of your photo? Looks funky- and their perfect color for BLK
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TN, USA
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Posted: 7/29/2013 2:16:31 PM EDT
[#34]
Anybody using AA#9 for 300 BLK? I have a ton of this powder and just can't find any reloading data for it. I know it is a little faster than W296/H110, but should be slow enough to use with 110 gr bullets.
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Posted: 7/29/2013 8:46:02 PM EDT
[Last Edit: InfiniteGrim]
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By kR-15:
What is the projectile on the right side of your photo? Looks funky- and their perfect color for BLK Its a 247gr NOE cast projectile with some sort of hard coating on it that prevents leading, its comes out to 249gr with the coating. |
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Posted: 7/29/2013 10:43:26 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By molar: Anybody using AA#9 for 300 BLK? I have a ton of this powder and just can't find any reloading data for it. I know it is a little faster than W296/H110, but should be slow enough to use with 110 gr bullets. They just recently updated their data.
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Posted: 7/29/2013 11:12:54 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By InfiniteGrim:
Its a 247gr NOE cast projectile with some sort of hard coating on it that prevents leading, its comes out to 249gr with the coating. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By InfiniteGrim:
Originally Posted By kR-15:
What is the projectile on the right side of your photo? Looks funky- and their perfect color for BLK Its a 247gr NOE cast projectile with some sort of hard coating on it that prevents leading, its comes out to 249gr with the coating. That's a whole Lotta lead coming at ya. |
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OR, USA
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Posted: 7/29/2013 11:22:58 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By InfiniteGrim:
Its a 247gr NOE cast projectile with some sort of hard coating on it that prevents leading, its comes out to 249gr with the coating. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By InfiniteGrim:
Originally Posted By kR-15:
What is the projectile on the right side of your photo? Looks funky- and their perfect color for BLK Its a 247gr NOE cast projectile with some sort of hard coating on it that prevents leading, its comes out to 249gr with the coating. Looks like someone read about the piglet method over at castboolits
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Posted: 7/29/2013 11:28:35 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By xacex:
Looks like someone read about the piglet method over at castboolits Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By xacex:
Originally Posted By InfiniteGrim:
Originally Posted By kR-15:
What is the projectile on the right side of your photo? Looks funky- and their perfect color for BLK Its a 247gr NOE cast projectile with some sort of hard coating on it that prevents leading, its comes out to 249gr with the coating. Looks like someone read about the piglet method over at castboolits 600 ft-lbs of enery at 1050fps. Much better than any handgun I own! Hell my 160gr reloads out of my 10.5" barrel have the same evergy as 5.56 out of my 16" barrel. I am loving 300 blackout! |
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TN, USA
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Posted: 7/30/2013 7:35:08 AM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
Have you looked at the Accurate web site? They just recently updated their data. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
Originally Posted By molar:
Anybody using AA#9 for 300 BLK? I have a ton of this powder and just can't find any reloading data for it. I know it is a little faster than W296/H110, but should be slow enough to use with 110 gr bullets. They just recently updated their data. Yep. They don't have #9 listed. |
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WI, USA
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Posted: 7/30/2013 6:30:57 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By molar:
Yep. They don't have #9 listed. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By molar:
Originally Posted By dryflash3:
Originally Posted By molar:
Anybody using AA#9 for 300 BLK? I have a ton of this powder and just can't find any reloading data for it. I know it is a little faster than W296/H110, but should be slow enough to use with 110 gr bullets. They just recently updated their data. Yep. They don't have #9 listed. Try the handloading forum at 300blktalk.com - it's hosted by Robert Silvers (AAC R&D- lead on the 300WTF project) and I've seen AA9 data there |
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IL, USA
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Posted: 7/30/2013 7:57:13 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By molar:
Anybody using AA#9 for 300 BLK? I have a ton of this powder and just can't find any reloading data for it. I know it is a little faster than W296/H110, but should be slow enough to use with 110 gr bullets. |
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Posted: 7/30/2013 9:00:29 PM EDT
[#43]
How many times can you load a 300 blackout case?
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Posted: 7/30/2013 9:59:14 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By WitchDr: How many times can you load a 300 blackout case? That depends on how hot you load it. Also if you annealed the shoulder before you formed the cases from once fired brass. Just shoot it until PP gets loose, neck cracks, or signs of a case separation.
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Posted: 7/30/2013 11:23:52 PM EDT
[#45]
Thanks.. Good to know
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WI, USA
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Posted: 7/31/2013 12:53:38 AM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By WitchDr:
How many times can you load a 300 blackout case? Cautious people say 3 total recycles loads. I've seen plenty of people claim they get 7+ uses if they only run subsonics. I have some Remington brass that's got 3 recycles on it (mostly supersonic loads and I'm starting to see flattened primers). I am examining those cases closely after cleaning and watching for signs of pressure or case head separationm ( details on pressure signs and photos here ). After I wear a couple down I will figure out my number. If I get to 7 uses though ill toss them. YMMV |
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VA, USA
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Posted: 8/2/2013 11:19:20 AM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By molar:
Anybody using AA#9 for 300 BLK? I have a ton of this powder and just can't find any reloading data for it. I know it is a little faster than W296/H110, but should be slow enough to use with 110 gr bullets. 16.0 grs of aa9 with a 125 gr bullet. Not sure what the proper load for a 110 gr bullet would be. |
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Posted: 8/2/2013 6:38:35 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By WitchDr:
How many times can you load a 300 blackout case? I have some PMC cases I have loaded up 5 times now. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 8/2/2013 9:40:07 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By xtreme762:
I think maybe the Nosler Accubond might hold together a little better. Their site says they offer more expansion at lesser velocities. I have a bunch of 125's to load up, and will test them. The BT's aren't very impressive to say the least! Any followup on the accubond 125 gr? I ordered some for hunting down the road. |
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Posted: 8/2/2013 10:12:27 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By delirious1:
Any followup on the accubond 125 gr? I ordered some for hunting down the road. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By delirious1:
Originally Posted By xtreme762:
I think maybe the Nosler Accubond might hold together a little better. Their site says they offer more expansion at lesser velocities. I have a bunch of 125's to load up, and will test them. The BT's aren't very impressive to say the least! Any followup on the accubond 125 gr? I ordered some for hunting down the road. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/385765_300_Blackout_Master_Thread.html&page=31#i3772693 |
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