Any of you guys calculating your  muzzle energy?

I just worked up some 168gr projectiles. 16gr of Lil Gun resulted in an average of 1975fps. That is 1454.77 ft-lbs of energy....from a 10.5 Barrel!  

15.5gr gave me a penny sized group at 50 yards @ 1900fps and giving 1350ft-lbs of energy.



Not sure if I rushed the 16gr group or not but it was like 3" at 50 yards.  Shooting a 10.5" AR pistol for accurracy isn't the easiest thing

1975 with 168's from a 10.5.  Are you sure? I would think you would have serious signs of overpressure.  How far away was your chronograph from the muzzle?

it was 10ft instead of my usual 15ft today...

I was a little off on the numbers from memory, but here they are. I was getting some marks on my brass at 16.0, but the accurracy didn't seem good. I didn't notice anything severe out of the 15.5gr load.

ALL of the following loads cycled perfectly.

Can anyone give me a load for 240 grain Sierra HPBT using accurate 1680?  Thanks.

WOW! Your velocities seem WAY high. I was having trouble getting 150gn bullets to 1900fps. with the same amount of Lil'Gun, and using CCI41's. I always put the chrono 12ft. from the muzzle, and shoot a minimum of 5 shot groups for more accurate velocities.

With 16.1gn of Lil'Gun my average velocities were 1870fps., and the primers were flat. I settled on 15gn with a velocity of 1825fps., and no signs of over pressure. All out of a 10.5" barrel, and same COAL as yours.

All I'm saying is that something don't seem right..

For sub sonic? 11.2 grains and work down until you achieve sub sonic velocity.

Yes subs.

For TacoLove: have you seen this Sierra data page? Check out the post and scroll down for the page. 300 Whisper and Blackout very similar.
http://ingunowners.com/forums/ammunition-reloading/240170-300-blk-240-gr-smks-subsonic-load.html

I saw that, It just seemed that 11.2 gr of AA was a lot considering I am using 10.4 gr on the Hornady 208 A-Max and 225 grain bullets.

For sub sonic you work up loads by starting higher than the anticipated need and work down to subsonic velocity. Getting a projectile stuck in the bore can have catastrophic effects on the well being of both yourself and the firearm.

The 235gr load here should get you in the neighborhood - My proven recipes

Anyone have good/bad comments on E.R Shaw barrel quality?   Making my first 300 Blk build and do not want to buy a crappy barrel.  Thanks for any help you can give me.

I've been impressed with my Rainier arms match 10.5" barrel. I've havent really shot it for groups yet, but the few I did shoot were impressive, sub moa.

LOL I missed the first sentence

I have one, it shoots very well. 2" groups at 100 yards with iron sights, no complaints.

Who carries Shaw barrels?
Thinking of getting into the 300 for hunting hogs.
Been using the 223 and it's done real well, but,,,,

Model1 sales carries them.

J&T Distributing uses some Shaw barrels I've read along with other brands including Wilson. I'd contact J&T for specifics on what barrel they use for the 300 BLK. I have 2 J&T 300 BLK uppers along with a 6.5 Grendel and they all perform perfectly with very good accuracy. Highly recommended by me anyway.

Is annealing the case neck a necessary step in 300 AAC reloading?

Depends on:  

Well, just ordered a barrel, couldn't find a 18" so had to go with 16" (wanted it for hunting)

Dryflash,

Have you tried any cast bullets with yours?

I have a mold that drops at 121 gr and would like to use it for fun, have plenty of 150's, 168's, and 190's to use for hunting.

Next, a set of dies.

'Borg

Thanks guys. I appreciate the help. Looks like I'll be picking up a torch and making a ji to do the annealing.

Study this pic, go to Home Depot.

I saw that and would like to make it.  Can you expand and post some pictures as to how the hoses are arranged in the back.  I'd like to see how they are hooked up to the propane tanks.

I had a local propane supply shop build a hose that splits (with a T as they didn't have a Y) that runs the torches. One thing I would have done differently is measure how long to make the hoses from where they setup is "parked" instead of just making each 2' long.  I'll snap some pics of the setup tonight.  The other thing you'll want is a socket to hold your cases, and a drill/driver to spin them.  I used a Bosch driver - smallest thing I could find at Lowes.  I'll try and get part numbers in the pics if the tags are still on the pieces.

 

How much holdover do you apply to a 100yd shot for a 220smk?

I crimp all of my .223 rounds with the Lee FCD. Even with a light crimp I can see the collet marks around the case mouth. I just loaded up my first 300blk rounds tonight. I used what I thought was a medium crimp with the300 blk Lee FCD but I couldn't see any marks what so ever. Lake city brass trimmed to 1.358. Sierra MK 125gr (#2121). It's set up properly and I can see the collets closing on the round. Is this normal for the 300 blk Lee FCD?




Jeff

I haven't loaded any projectiles that light but do see crimp marks from using my Lee FCD on 235gr softpoints

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http://kR-15.com - reloading recipes, shooting tips and more!

Man, I hate a 30-30, but those bullets sure do look good!

teaser pic...when I get my gas checks I am gonna try these in the 300blk.  These come in around 130 grains with 3 different configs.  This is a mold from a group buy...MP Mold.  Gonna try these with Lil Gun and see how they work out.  I just wish my Hornady bullet seating stem was a little less harsh on the nose profile...you guys know anyone that makes custom stems?  Anyway...the pic...

I want to say Buffalo Arms can make custom top punches.

I will check into them...the mold comes with a top punch for sizing applications...which I find is cool...it fits the lyman and rcbs applications...or so its said...I don't have either so I cant say...

it's the bullet seating stem I am having trouble with.  Hornady usually sends 2 stems with its pistol sets...one for standard roundnose type bullets and one for flatnose bullets...I often use the flatnose stem for HPs because they don't seam to distort the HP bullet like the stems for roundnose bullets do...the rifle sets only come with a single stem...basically made for a standard pointed bullet.  the thing is there are lots of different radiuses on different bullets...I know I spelled that wrong...

softer rounds with a longer ogive and thinner jacket seem to get rings on the nose where as thicker jacketed rounds with more blount noses do not...I was thinking a flat nosed stem my just do the trick...who knows...someone else that uses hornady dies may come along and chime in as well...

gonna check your reference right now...

Thank you!

I would think that a seating stem from a 30-30 die would work just fine

Those look nice!!

bump for the new guys!

Anyone use Alliant 2400?  My lgs has some and the new Hornady manual lists it as acceptable for 225gr bthp.  Lil gun is nonexistent here, so I'm looking for an alternate for subs.  I already have some H110 for supers, so I'm good there.

Captian_Howdy get a hold of 38-55/Calvin on castboolits, I've had several custom top punches made by him, very very quick and well priced

Opps miss read I'd still hit Calvin up and see if he can help you out as his work is top notch

Well, the mold came with an excellent top punch.  But I don't have the appropriate sizer to use it...not yet anyways.  The jury is still out on these bullets though.  But here is a picture of 15 loaded and ready to go.  These were loaded with 17.5 grains of Lil Gun.

My first usage of Lil Gun by the way...I normally use H110.  The Lil Gun does seem somewhat smoother...if you can imagine what I mean...I am using a softer alloy...harder cast lead at higher speeds tend to break up.  At slower speeds it doesn't do anything.

So here is a picture of my first 15 and if you look closely you can see what my bullet seater is doing to the nose profile.  I am assuming it is cosmetic...but the pros can tell me otherwise if I am mistaken...but if I was using the HP pins I am sure HP damage would occur.



My results at the range were not as good as I would have liked.  Basically if I cant tighten these groups up with some load tweaking then I would consider this bullet design not acceptable for the 300 BLK.  I am gonna try lengthening the OAL a bit and see if it helps accuracy.

I just gotta be mindful of bullet to magazine fitment in the rib area.  I certainly don't plan to use these bullets for much anything other than plinking or maybe some small game hunting...so a fully loaded mag isn't really required...but it is still a factor in load development.

The top target has 3 rounds of Hornady V-Max with 20 grains H110.  As you can see it's a decent group.  Considering I fired all groups at 25 yds in the pouring rain and was using the magpul MBUS sights.  I haven't decided what optics I am going to run yet.

The other targets were shot with the 130 grainish cast lead bullets from an MP mold.  Notice they are all over the place.  I had no leading of any kind nor did I have any weapon malfunctions either.  The gun felt good during firing and my loads felt well withing the proper power outputs without any signs of over pressure.



I cant explain why the cast bullets are all over the place.  I am going to make a guess that there may be an excessive bullet-to-bore jump as I seated the bullets to ride in the mag with as little interference from the mag rib as possible

while still keeping the gas check secure in the case neck area.  I plan to make a .015 seating adjustment in the morning and check for fitment.  If everything works out I am going to hit the range after Church and see if my

adjustments make any difference.  If I cant work it out over the next few sessions I will chock it up as a loss and see if I can get them to work in my SKS.  If nothing else, my SKS will shoot anything and I probably wont even notice

any accuracy limitations...and a 130 grain bullets just seems perfect for that application.

Edit:  more pics because you guys like pics:

Here are the cast bullets with checks installed.  Notice how short they are...people are having good luck with them through other platforms...



And here are the bullets in the pan lube.  I used a fired Mosin case with the end cut off as a cutter.  Usually I would just pop the entire mess off the plastic plate and push the bullets through...I just don't always get good results doing so.  I changed up because I need to have a good amount of lube in the bands and the cutter ensures I don't mess up by pushing through.

What is the readily available case lube of choice for forming 300BLK necks from 223 cases?  I have been using a wax like lube with a Q-tip form a fella up in Ak.   This lube is not gonna last forever and he is no longer producing it.

Since you already lie a wax type lube, Redding Imperial Sizing wax... or the Hornady version, in a bigger tin.

 

I personally like Dillon lube or home brew lube (essentially the same thing)

Imperial sizing die wax.  Great stuff and a tin lasts a long time.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/519525/imperial-case-sizing-wax-2-oz

Satisfied with my LilGun recipe for subsonic 220 SMKs - check it out if you like.

Grouping just as nicely as 1680, smaller charge, and a powder that's easier to find in my area


_________________
"The greatest danger to American freedom is a government that ignores the Constitution."--- Thomas Jefferson

http://kR-15.com - reloading recipes, shooting tips and more!

Thanks for the lube advice guys.. I ended up picking up a tub of the Hornady Unique sizing lube.  Wonderful stuff.  I sized 120 rounds last night with not a scratch and real smooth action.  

Anyways, I have a newb reloader question of the day.  I picked up a box of 100 rounds of  Hornady 125g SST bullets.  They appear to be the actual 300 blackout profile?  They also have a cannelure.  The cannelure appears to line up proper with the neck of a 300blk case.  My question is, I have Lee dies and the Lee FCD. Should I utilize this cannelure with the Lee FCD or is there another process?

I have had good luck with the 300blk so far. I have so many 30 cal factory bullets on hand to try out and a lee 230r mold and 308 and 309 lee sizers and found a load for this boolit that my gun likes at 100 yds. it is reformed lc brass wolf srm primers, 8.5 grs. lilgun, powder coated lee 230r boolits from wheelweights. right at 1100 fps and 2' at 100 yds  out of my  16" noveske upper with pistol gas system. As with any cast boolit sizing matters and pressure (i.e. speed) to fully expand base of boolit tight to the rifling for best accuracy and no leading. I do not have a can yet so fps is not an issue for me. my boolits don't have gas checks.