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Here's a few pics of my first lower using the 5DT jig. I trial fitted this Anderson lower with its mate upper and it was a perfect fit with pivot/takedown pins aligning exactly as expected. Trigger pin and safety holes were also dead on.
Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File A few "learnings" of note are as follows: 1. Double and triple check all bolts and screws on the jig before commencing milling. I realized the two screws holding the buffer adapter weren't fully tightened halfway through the first milling level which caused the lower to move sideways resulting in the slight overmilling at the top of the trigger pocket as seen in pic 3. 2. Tight fitment of the end mill in the 5/16" trigger hole when getting to the last pass on the medium pin series might cause the router to stall when turned on. DO NOT try to start the router outside of the hole and lower it in as it may jump and hit the side of your pocket causing a gouge on your otherwise near-perfect lower...(see pic 4) Instead, use your 5/16" drill bit and "wallow out" the hole slightly until the end mill fits inside with enough tolerance to turn freely. Then, and only then, turn on your router and proceed with the final pass. 3. The 3/8" starter hole in the drill guide was tight for my drill bit to the point that it couldnt seat to full depth before starting the drill, so I had to be very careful starting that hole. I tried several bits, but all were too snug to seat fully. No problem was noted with the 5/16 bit fitting the drill guide. Overall, I'm very happy with the jig and the results. |
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I just read the instructions and watched the video. The question I have is why after drilling the two trigger holes could I not rout them with the router all the way down? This would negate the need to
be so careful as when you have a thin bottom and try to cut/rout the trigger hole. In fact this is the way my original Modulus Jig worked. Is it that the end mill is too large for the larger hole? |
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I just read the instructions and watched the video. The question I have is why after drilling the two trigger holes could I not rout them with the router all the way down? This would negate the need to be so careful as when you have a thin bottom and try to cut/rout the trigger hole. In fact this is the way my original Modulus Jig worked. Is it that the end mill is too large for the larger hole? View Quote That is the hole you use to cut the slot for the trigger in the bottom of the receiver. When you install the longest guide pins the router will only cut the trigger slot. |
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Are you referring to the ONE 5/16" hole? That is the hole you use to cut the slot for the trigger in the bottom of the receiver. When you install the longest guide pins the router will only cut the trigger slot. View Quote |
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To date I have not had an issue cutting the trigger slot.
Just closely follow the instructions. |
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Here's a few pics of my first lower using the 5DT jig. I trial fitted this Anderson lower with its mate upper and it was a perfect fit with pivot/takedown pins aligning exactly as expected. Trigger pin and safety holes were also dead on. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/440344/IMG-6068-179664.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/440344/IMG-6069-179665.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/440344/IMG-6074-179674.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/440344/IMG-6071-179668.JPG A few "learnings" of note are as follows: 1. Double and triple check all bolts and screws on the jig before commencing milling. I realized the two screws holding the buffer adapter weren't fully tightened halfway through the first milling level which caused the lower to move sideways resulting in the slight overmilling at the top of the trigger pocket as seen in pic 3. 2. Tight fitment of the end mill in the 5/16" trigger hole when getting to the last pass on the medium pin series might cause the router to stall when turned on. DO NOT try to start the router outside of the hole and lower it in as it may jump and hit the side of your pocket causing a gouge on your otherwise near-perfect lower...(see pic 4) Instead, use your 5/16" drill bit and "wallow out" the hole slightly until the end mill fits inside with enough tolerance to turn freely. Then, and only then, turn on your router and proceed with the final pass. 3. The 3/8" starter hole in the drill guide was tight for my drill bit to the point that it couldnt seat to full depth before starting the drill, so I had to be very careful starting that hole. I tried several bits, but all were too snug to seat fully. No problem was noted with the 5/16 bit fitting the drill guide. Overall, I'm very happy with the jig and the results. View Quote |
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Here's a few pics of my first lower using the 5DT jig. I trial fitted this Anderson lower with its mate upper and it was a perfect fit with pivot/takedown pins aligning exactly as expected. Trigger pin and safety holes were also dead on. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/440344/IMG-6068-179664.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/440344/IMG-6069-179665.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/440344/IMG-6074-179674.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/440344/IMG-6071-179668.JPG A few "learnings" of note are as follows: 1. Double and triple check all bolts and screws on the jig before commencing milling. I realized the two screws holding the buffer adapter weren't fully tightened halfway through the first milling level which caused the lower to move sideways resulting in the slight overmilling at the top of the trigger pocket as seen in pic 3. 2. Tight fitment of the end mill in the 5/16" trigger hole when getting to the last pass on the medium pin series might cause the router to stall when turned on. DO NOT try to start the router outside of the hole and lower it in as it may jump and hit the side of your pocket causing a gouge on your otherwise near-perfect lower...(see pic 4) Instead, use your 5/16" drill bit and "wallow out" the hole slightly until the end mill fits inside with enough tolerance to turn freely. Then, and only then, turn on your router and proceed with the final pass. 3. The 3/8" starter hole in the drill guide was tight for my drill bit to the point that it couldnt seat to full depth before starting the drill, so I had to be very careful starting that hole. I tried several bits, but all were too snug to seat fully. No problem was noted with the 5/16 bit fitting the drill guide. Overall, I'm very happy with the jig and the results. View Quote |
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I've been considering one of these for awhile, best jig I have seen.
Question... if one has a manufactured lower, but it has a high shelf, or just a little too much material there and it won't accept your RDIAS, can this jig be presumably used with that 100% lower to drop that shelf area down to low shelf material and fit the RDIAS? Really, I only have 3/64ths of an inch to remove from a tiny tiny shelf in a V7 lower. No idea why V7 would design it that way, but they did. I will buy the jig for that reason alone if this sounds doable. |
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I've been considering one of these for awhile, best jig I have seen. Question... if one has a manufactured lower, but it has a high shelf, or just a little too much material there and it won't accept your RDIAS, can this jig be presumably used with that 100% lower to drop that shelf area down to low shelf material and fit the RDIAS? Really, I only have 3/64ths of an inch to remove from a tiny tiny shelf in a V7 lower. No idea why V7 would design it that way, but they did. I will buy the jig for that reason alone if this sounds doable. View Quote |
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Watched it again and now I see why. Too small. But the question I ask is why not arrange that so that the pilot hole all the way through can accommodate the mill to allow you to rout an oval (the size of the trigger opening) all the way down before you level layers? What I mean is you use the router to create an oval tunnel with the dimensions of the trigger opening all the way down through thick aluminum before you begin to rout layers? This would eliminate the need to be so careful with that fragile trigger opening in 1/10" aluminum? View Quote way down leaving a long oval trigger sized cavity all the way through. Then switch back to the shortest pins and run though the first range and then the medium pins through the second and it's done. |
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I just got my "notice of shipment" today for my order (3 weeks on the button from when I ordered). Built a new work table just for this. Just need to order my router and a new shop vac now. The first few 80%s I plan to try will be basic mil-spec lowers, but then I plan to make a polymer and try out an Iconic Industries Inc lower. Anyone out there used a 5D Tactical Jig with an Iconic Industries Inc lower yet? I am thinking that a polymer lower will have zero problems with the jig. Im looking forward to cutting my first lower within the next week or so (depending on how much time I have).
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I just got my "notice of shipment" today for my order (3 weeks on the button from when I ordered). Built a new work table just for this. Just need to order my router and a new shop vac now. The first few 80%s I plan to try will be basic mil-spec lowers, but then I plan to make a polymer and try out an Iconic Industries Inc lower. Anyone out there used a 5D Tactical Jig with an Iconic Industries Inc lower yet? I am thinking that a polymer lower will have zero problems with the jig. Im looking forward to cutting my first lower within the next week or so (depending on how much time I have). View Quote |
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Bump for the weekend warriors. Lead times for jigs are currently at 2 weeks or less!
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Lead times have been averaging 5-7 days this week. No more waiting!
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I successfully used a 5d Tactical 80% jig to convert a high shelf V7 Lower to a low shelf configuration. http://i.imgur.com/et18MoF.jpg View Quote |
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I successfully used a 5d Tactical 80% jig to convert a high shelf V7 Lower to a low shelf configuration. http://i.imgur.com/et18MoF.jpg View Quote The 5D jig does it all!! |
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I successfully used a 5d Tactical 80% jig to convert a high shelf V7 Lower to a low shelf configuration. http://i.imgur.com/et18MoF.jpg View Quote |
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Just waiting on a shipment notice. So it'll be watching videos and taking notes for a lil bit
Also ordered a PCE6435 tonight. |
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Just waiting on a shipment notice. So it'll be watching videos and taking notes for a lil bit Also ordered a PCE6435 tonight. View Quote |
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Just finished # 3 and 4 yesterday. Great jig but I think I need a new mill bit and possibly top drill guides. How did you do low shelf?
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Just finished # 3 and 4 yesterday. Great jig but I think I need a new mill bit and possibly top drill guides. How did you do low shelf? View Quote And end mills: http://www.5dtactical.com/jig-tools-s/102.htm |
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We have replacement parts available here: http://www.5dtactical.com/jig-replacement-parts-s/108.htm And end mills: http://www.5dtactical.com/jig-tools-s/102.htm View Quote |
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I'm looking @ casting plastic 80% lowers for my friends using the AR15Mold.com mold - after I finish my chocolate lower. Unfortunately, due to the mold design, the safety hole will be cast - in order to keep it an 80% (and not be producing firearms I give away) I'll be leaving the rear takedown pin hole and pocket unmolded. Using your jig, would someone be able to drill the rear takedown pin hole and cut the rear takedown lug pocket?
Any issues w/ your endmill getting plugged up w/ melted plastic? Do you have a recommended rpm for plastic lowers? |
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my replacement parts came in monday. about how many lowers do you normally get out of the end mill bit? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
my replacement parts came in monday. about how many lowers do you normally get out of the end mill bit? Quoted:
I'm looking @ casting plastic 80% lowers for my friends using the AR15Mold.com mold - after I finish my chocolate lower. Unfortunately, due to the mold design, the safety hole will be cast - in order to keep it an 80% (and not be producing firearms I give away) I'll be leaving the rear takedown pin hole and pocket unmolded. Using your jig, would someone be able to drill the rear takedown pin hole and cut the rear takedown lug pocket? Any issues w/ your endmill getting plugged up w/ melted plastic? Do you have a recommended rpm for plastic lowers? |
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if i kept the smallest guide pins in for the second depth gauge is it become a low shelf lower ? for a light weight build or if i can ever buy a rdias?
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Any sales this weekend? View Quote http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_124/713887_NEW--5D-Tactical-All-Aluminum-AR-15-Router-Jig----149-99.html Have a safe weekend everyone... |
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Hi,
Any reports on the Iconic Industries Gen 2 fitment? I saw someone posting above regarding the 308 platform, but never confirmed that it actually fit. https://msrarms.com/collections/80-lowers-jigs/products/iconic-industries-gen2-instigator-billet-ar-15-80-lower-receiver-options?variant=22346705089 |
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Hi, Any reports on the Iconic Industries Gen 2 fitment? I saw someone posting above regarding the 308 platform, but never confirmed that it actually fit. https://msrarms.com/collections/80-lowers-jigs/products/iconic-industries-gen2-instigator-billet-ar-15-80-lower-receiver-options?variant=22346705089 View Quote |
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Hey 5DT....What's the recommended procedure to replace the guide bearing in the new style base? After removing the two screws, the bearing is still solidly fixed in the base so I wanted to check with the designers before applying the hammer....(metaphorically speaking)
Edit: NVM. A few hours in the freezer and a light tap with a socket did the trick. |
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Hey 5DT....What's the recommended procedure to replace the guide bearing in the new style base? After removing the two screws, the bearing is still solidly fixed in the base so I wanted to check with the designers before applying the hammer....(metaphorically speaking) Edit: NVM. A few hours in the freezer and a light tap with a socket did the trick. View Quote |
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Well, I've never completed an 80% receiver before but I guess I'm gonna learn! Lol! Bought the 5D jig last night!
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Haha! Thanks! Just need to figure out a good engraver and anodizer. I'm hearing US Anodizing doesn't take finished 80 receivers anymore. If true, that's a real shame.
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So a few weeks back I found a deal on some AR-308 polymer lowers (DPMS pattern). Yesterday I ordered my 5D Tactical 308 conversion kit (with some other spare parts). So in the next week or two (or whenever I find the time), I will try to cut a (Polymer80) 308 lower on the 5D Tactical 308 jig and give you guys (and ladies) a report on how it works out. I know its been stated before that the jig may not work on a polymer lower, but Im going to give it a try. So far all four of the AR-15 (non-polymer) lowers I have done came out perfectly (shared pics in this post of my first one).
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Can we use this jig with a typical 5/16" mill bit as long as it fits in our mini router?
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Can we use this jig with a typical 5/16" mill bit as long as it fits in our mini router? View Quote |
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You can, however a 5/16" x 4" end mill will be required and none of the commercially available end mills in this size will have a short enough length of cut. Therefore, the cutting surface will interfere with the bearing for the first several passes. To use an off-the-shelf 5/16" end mill you will need to remove the support bearing after centering the plate. The bearing does 2 things - it obviously supports the end mill to reduce deflection, but it also guarantees the position of the end mill in relation to the guide pins. Extra care must be taken to ensure the router adapter plate is perfectly centered, or else your finished milling job will be off-center. View Quote |
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UPDATE on Polymer80 308 LOWER in the 5D Tactical!
So I did get the Polymer80 308 to fit, but it did require me to slightly dremel down both of the upper sides of the lower so the side plates would fit. Once I got that done the lower fit perfectly and milling polymer was a snap. I did find that a lower router speed helped to keep it from getting 2 warm (was trying to avoid any melting). My cut came out super nice (sry no pics till I find a replacement for PhotoBucket). I have yet to put parts into it or get an upper (other projects ahead of it), but I will get around to that sometime soon. The bottom line is that with a minor "mod" it works just fine on a 5D Tactical 308 Jig! Thanks again to everyone at 5D Tactical! You have made making 80% lowers fun and practical. |
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