User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 1:46:43 AM EDT
[#1]
That was part of it. Didn't have enough clearance without shims so I added some but now it won't seat correctly.
I have to literally hit the top of the suppressor to seat it and now it rachets down more but not all the way. To those who have surefire's. Does the collar turn the full rotation when on the mount like it does when it's off? |
|
|
|
UT, USA
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 1:47:50 AM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By hatexoc:
That was part of it. Didn't have enough clearance without shims so I added some but now it won't seat correctly. I have to literally hit the top of the suppressor to seat it and now it rachets down more but not all the way. To those who have surefire's. Does the collar turn the full rotation when on the mount like it does when it's off? To the last part no. I'd say it turns 75% of the way. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 1:50:35 AM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By jBoy723:
After I purchased my SR25, I graduated from Coach/Michael Kors to Louis Vitton's and Gucci's for my wife..  Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By jBoy723:
Originally Posted By AR-Ryan21:
You can almost always tell how many firearms a man owns by how many Coach purses his wife has. Let's just say that my wife has a ton of Coach purses. We get off pretty easy considering. Her Coach bags are far cheaper than any of my rifles, and cheaper than most of my optics as well. After I purchased my SR25, I graduated from Coach/Michael Kors to Louis Vitton's and Gucci's for my wife.. Oh yea? After I bought my first Anderson lower I bought my girl a sewn inside-out purse from Ross.
Whatchu got on that suckas |
|
|
|
UT, USA
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 2:10:30 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Oh yea? After I bought my first Anderson lower I bought my girl a sewn inside-out purse from Ross.
Whatchu got on that suckas Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Originally Posted By jBoy723:
Originally Posted By AR-Ryan21:
You can almost always tell how many firearms a man owns by how many Coach purses his wife has. Let's just say that my wife has a ton of Coach purses. We get off pretty easy considering. Her Coach bags are far cheaper than any of my rifles, and cheaper than most of my optics as well. After I purchased my SR25, I graduated from Coach/Michael Kors to Louis Vitton's and Gucci's for my wife.. Oh yea? After I bought my first Anderson lower I bought my girl a sewn inside-out purse from Ross.
Whatchu got on that suckas My wife left me so hah! |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 2:15:48 AM EDT
[#5]
'yote wins |
|
|
|
CO, USA
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 2:29:00 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By sweatpants:
Just a small note - the marking on the stickers aren't QR codes, they're data matrices. Just for anyone that pays attention to that kind of thing. http://i.imgur.com/V9aceDrl.jpg http://www.gomonews.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/qr-dm.png What kind of upper receiver is that? |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 2:31:54 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheTacticalCoyote:
My wife left me so hah! Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheTacticalCoyote:
Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Originally Posted By jBoy723:
Originally Posted By AR-Ryan21:
You can almost always tell how many firearms a man owns by how many Coach purses his wife has. Let's just say that my wife has a ton of Coach purses. We get off pretty easy considering. Her Coach bags are far cheaper than any of my rifles, and cheaper than most of my optics as well. After I purchased my SR25, I graduated from Coach/Michael Kors to Louis Vitton's and Gucci's for my wife.. Oh yea? After I bought my first Anderson lower I bought my girl a sewn inside-out purse from Ross.
Whatchu got on that suckas My wife left me so hah! Seems to me we both win this game then. I don't see myself getting married for a long ass time. I have a hard time staying with the same woman longer than like a year, and really don't like listening to bitching every time I want to drop 600-1k on an optic. When I ordered my first EOTech my ex was here the day it was being delivered. She was gettin mad cause I wouldn't shut the fuck up about it. She asked me how much it was and I told her like $150. She started bitching about that. Anyways, UPS shows up, I rip the package open and am drooling all over the optic, didn't see that she picked up the receipt. the rest of that day wasn't too exciting anymore
|
|
|
|
WA, USA
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 3:05:13 AM EDT
[Last Edit: ihcnehc]
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By hatexoc: That was part of it. Didn't have enough clearance without shims so I added some but now it won't seat correctly. I have to literally hit the top of the suppressor to seat it and now it rachets down more but not all the way. To those who have surefire's. Does the collar turn the full rotation when on the mount like it does when it's off? If you can still take the SF3P off, take it off and mount it with your SOCOM RC. However much the rotation is needed to fully tightened the suppressor is however much is needed when the SF3P is on the barrel. With enough clearance, the suppressor drops right in. When tightened, it is very positive, no mushy feel, and you will know when it is there. And, not meaning to be personal, whoever says SF3P ( or FH556-RC, mil four prong version ) does not need to be shimmed / indexed is FOS. BS tends to get repeated over and over on internet. It needs to be timed / indexed / shimmed. The instruction that comes with the package clearly says so. Surefire even has a video on youtube for mounting flash hiders (LINK).  |
|
|
IN, USA
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 4:44:31 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SecretSquirell:
If you've got girl hands Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SecretSquirell:
Originally Posted By Tmender03:
I'd rather keep my ladders, shooting on a bare rail without gloves is painful. If you've got girl hands I don't mean for heat, the bloody things can be sharp. Cut myself on a RAS when I qualified back in August. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 4:49:11 AM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Tmender03:
I don't mean for heat, the bloody things can be sharp. Cut myself on a RAS when I qualified back in August. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Tmender03:
Originally Posted By SecretSquirell:
Originally Posted By Tmender03:
I'd rather keep my ladders, shooting on a bare rail without gloves is painful. If you've got girl hands I don't mean for heat, the bloody things can be sharp. Cut myself on a RAS when I qualified back in August. I'm guessing these comments have just been some razzing. Not sure who wouldn't opt to run ladders on a quad rail without gloves if given the option. |
|
|
|
AZ, USA
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 9:39:56 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Lawdog-1:
Who makes the most correct & sells the CAG Code stickers here? Discussed completely over the last 4 or 5 pages. |
|
|
AZ, USA
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 9:40:59 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By hatexoc:
<a href="http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/hatexoc/media/DE17FB26-458D-4837-AD82-402A34399ACA_zps7vp0anwv.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii640/hatexoc/DE17FB26-458D-4837-AD82-402A34399ACA_zps7vp0anwv.jpg</a> All this rubbing doesn't seem right, this was a brand new flash hider/ suppressor This doesn't look right. |
|
|
AZ, USA
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 9:43:17 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By warpig8654:
I don't know if it matters, but where are the shims? Is the FH Rocketted on well? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By warpig8654:
Originally Posted By hatexoc:
<a href="http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/hatexoc/media/DE17FB26-458D-4837-AD82-402A34399ACA_zps7vp0anwv.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii640/hatexoc/DE17FB26-458D-4837-AD82-402A34399ACA_zps7vp0anwv.jpg</a> All this rubbing doesn't seem right, this was a brand new flash hider/ suppressor I don't know if it matters, but where are the shims? Is the FH Rocketted on well? Rockset caused problems for me. Through trial and error, my gunsmith and I found torquing down to work better. Have had no problems since then and that was about 6 months/3k rounds ago. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 10:10:13 AM EDT
[#14]
Looks like the suppressor wasn't completely seated/indexed on the bottom of the FH. To me it looks like it was tightened up before completely mounted properly. I usually will start mine on the mount and twist until it seats on the indentation on the bottom of the FH and wont turn any more. Then tighten the ring and have fun. However, I learned the hard way that the Geissele alignment rod is a good investment to check..Double check..Triple check my suppressors before the maiden shot is fired. Good luck with that. Hopefully SF doesn't try and make you pay a core charge like I did when I had a similar issue.
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 10:31:36 AM EDT
[#15]
Is the BCM Mod 4 Charging Handle kosher, or is the PRI a better choice? Or is there something else I need to be looking at?
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 10:34:24 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By OilfieldTrash78:
Is the BCM Mod 4 Charging Handle kosher, or is the PRI a better choice? Or is there something else I need to be looking at? BCM: no PRI: yes, along with Colt I do believe. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 10:51:41 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Stoner25mkiv]
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Thunder79:
Rockset caused problems for me. Through trial and error, my gunsmith and I found torquing down to work better. Have had no problems since then and that was about 6 months/3k rounds ago. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Thunder79:
Originally Posted By warpig8654:
Originally Posted By hatexoc:
<a href="http://s1263.photobucket.com/user/hatexoc/media/DE17FB26-458D-4837-AD82-402A34399ACA_zps7vp0anwv.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii640/hatexoc/DE17FB26-458D-4837-AD82-402A34399ACA_zps7vp0anwv.jpg</a> All this rubbing doesn't seem right, this was a brand new flash hider/ suppressor I don't know if it matters, but where are the shims? Is the FH Rocketted on well? Rockset caused problems for me. Through trial and error, my gunsmith and I found torquing down to work better. Have had no problems since then and that was about 6 months/3k rounds ago. Thunder79......What kind of problems did the Rockset cause? The instructions that came with mine called for torquing down to 20-30 ft lbs, using the included chart to determine the correct shims to use. After determining the correct shim pack, reinstalling with shims and retorquing to verify timing, I removed the brake and applied rockset............then reinstalled and retorqued. It took 28 ft lbs to get the "tab" to the 6 o'clock position. Unfortunately, it took more shim than I would have liked to use, but it takes what it takes. Hatexoc.....in your picture it doesn't look like there is the beveled washer installed. Any reason for not using it? (assuming it isn't installed....can't be for sure in your pic) Also.........does the 3 prong have the timing/indexing tab? I have the brake on mine, so my results may differ from yours, but I just went and checked mine. When I install the can I have to wiggle/jiggle the can to get it to engage the index tab. Once the can is clearly "located" on the tab it takes slightly LESS than a half turn of the locking collar to lock down..........securely. Dont forget.........you also have to use the beveled washer installed with the bevel towards the barrel shoulder to ensure that the brake/FH abutts squarely to the shoulder. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 11:24:53 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By hatexoc: http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii640/hatexoc/DE17FB26-458D-4837-AD82-402A34399ACA_zps7vp0anwv.jpg All this rubbing doesn't seem right, this was a brand new flash hider/ suppressor 1. The FH does need to be timed using the shims and procedure in the booklet that came with the FH. The indexing ridge needs to be at 6:00. 2. The fit an a new brake or FH can be very tight the tolerances are nil. Those rub marks are normal. It is likely you tightened the lock ring down before the can was seated on the FH which is not an uncommon thing to do. The procedure I have found to work best is as follows: -open the lock ring CC completely. -look into the can and visually locate the indexing ridge recess. -slide can over FH with indexing recess liberally to one side or the other of the ridge on FH -while pushing the can down FIRMLY against the brake rotate the cans indexing recess towards the indexing ridge on the FH. -you will feel the can try to drop onto the ridge when the ridge/recess line up. -it is not unusual at this point to have to pull/push depending on how you are holding the can, HARD while slightly wiggling the can on the indexing post. The can will eventually break free and drop down fully seated or it will drop down in several steps before fully seated. IT CAN TAKE SOME DELIBERATE FORCE AND WIGGLING TO GET IT TO SEAT FULLY. Until they are well used they do not typically just drop on like they do in the Surefire Videos. -On all the SF cans I have the lock ring rotates about 1/4 -1/3 turn from the time the teeth engage to full lock. Typically from say 9:00 to 6:00 Hopefully this will help you out. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 11:56:25 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By safetyoff:
Hatexoc, a few things 1. The FH does need to be timed using the shims and procedure in the booklet that came with the FH. The indexing ridge needs to be at 6:00. 2. The fit an a new brake or FH can be very tight the tolerances are nil. Those rub marks are normal. It is likely you tightened the lock ring down before the can was seated on the FH which is not an uncommon thing to do. The procedure I have found to work best is as follows: -open the lock ring CC completely. -look into the can and visually locate the indexing ridge recess. -slide can over FH with indexing recess liberally to one side or the other of the ridge on FH -while pushing the can down FIRMLY against the brake rotate the cans indexing recess towards the indexing ridge on the FH. -you will feel the can try to drop onto the ridge when the ridge/recess line up. -it is not unusual at this point to have to pull/push depending on how you are holding the can, HARD while slightly wiggling the can on the indexing post. The can will eventually break free and drop down fully seated or it will drop down in several steps before fully seated. IT CAN TAKE SOME DELIBERATE FORCE AND WIGGLING TO GET IT TO SEAT FULLY. Until they are well used they do not typically just drop on like they do in the Surefire Videos. -On all the SF cans I have the lock ring rotates about 1/4 -1/3 turn from the time the teeth engage to full lock. Typically from say 9:00 to 6:00 Hopefully this will help you out. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By safetyoff:
Originally Posted By hatexoc:
http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii640/hatexoc/DE17FB26-458D-4837-AD82-402A34399ACA_zps7vp0anwv.jpg All this rubbing doesn't seem right, this was a brand new flash hider/ suppressor 1. The FH does need to be timed using the shims and procedure in the booklet that came with the FH. The indexing ridge needs to be at 6:00. 2. The fit an a new brake or FH can be very tight the tolerances are nil. Those rub marks are normal. It is likely you tightened the lock ring down before the can was seated on the FH which is not an uncommon thing to do. The procedure I have found to work best is as follows: -open the lock ring CC completely. -look into the can and visually locate the indexing ridge recess. -slide can over FH with indexing recess liberally to one side or the other of the ridge on FH -while pushing the can down FIRMLY against the brake rotate the cans indexing recess towards the indexing ridge on the FH. -you will feel the can try to drop onto the ridge when the ridge/recess line up. -it is not unusual at this point to have to pull/push depending on how you are holding the can, HARD while slightly wiggling the can on the indexing post. The can will eventually break free and drop down fully seated or it will drop down in several steps before fully seated. IT CAN TAKE SOME DELIBERATE FORCE AND WIGGLING TO GET IT TO SEAT FULLY. Until they are well used they do not typically just drop on like they do in the Surefire Videos. -On all the SF cans I have the lock ring rotates about 1/4 -1/3 turn from the time the teeth engage to full lock. Typically from say 9:00 to 6:00 Hopefully this will help you out. Thanks this helps a lot What did y'all use to tighten the flash hider? All of my 3/4" wrenches and crescent wrenches are too wide |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 12:11:07 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TurbineGuy:
BCM: no PRI: yes, along with Colt I do believe. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TurbineGuy:
Originally Posted By OilfieldTrash78:
Is the BCM Mod 4 Charging Handle kosher, or is the PRI a better choice? Or is there something else I need to be looking at? BCM: no PRI: yes, along with Colt I do believe. Changing out a charging handle is a pretty cheap, simple, unobtrusive, and easily reversible modification that even a lot of conventional-side bubbas can get away with. PRIs have been issued, along with standard USGI charging handles with "Crane" latches, but there have been plenty of other people who have used personally owned charging handles, and at least one photograph that I can think of of an M4A1 with an AXTS Raptor charging handle installed. I would go with whatever your preference is - though... if you haven't tried a Raptor - I'd strongly recommend it. 
~Augee |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 12:32:25 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Stoner25mkiv]
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By hatexoc:
Thanks this helps a lot What did y'all use to tighten the flash hider? All of my 3/4" wrenches and crescent wrenches are too wide Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By hatexoc:
Originally Posted By safetyoff:
Originally Posted By hatexoc:
http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii640/hatexoc/DE17FB26-458D-4837-AD82-402A34399ACA_zps7vp0anwv.jpg All this rubbing doesn't seem right, this was a brand new flash hider/ suppressor 1. The FH does need to be timed using the shims and procedure in the booklet that came with the FH. The indexing ridge needs to be at 6:00. 2. The fit an a new brake or FH can be very tight the tolerances are nil. Those rub marks are normal. It is likely you tightened the lock ring down before the can was seated on the FH which is not an uncommon thing to do. The procedure I have found to work best is as follows: -open the lock ring CC completely. -look into the can and visually locate the indexing ridge recess. -slide can over FH with indexing recess liberally to one side or the other of the ridge on FH -while pushing the can down FIRMLY against the brake rotate the cans indexing recess towards the indexing ridge on the FH. -you will feel the can try to drop onto the ridge when the ridge/recess line up. -it is not unusual at this point to have to pull/push depending on how you are holding the can, HARD while slightly wiggling the can on the indexing post. The can will eventually break free and drop down fully seated or it will drop down in several steps before fully seated. IT CAN TAKE SOME DELIBERATE FORCE AND WIGGLING TO GET IT TO SEAT FULLY. Until they are well used they do not typically just drop on like they do in the Surefire Videos. -On all the SF cans I have the lock ring rotates about 1/4 -1/3 turn from the time the teeth engage to full lock. Typically from say 9:00 to 6:00 Hopefully this will help you out. Thanks this helps a lot What did y'all use to tighten the flash hider? All of my 3/4" wrenches and crescent wrenches are too wide Again, I am running a brake, and it may differ slightly as to what wrench will fit, but.....I used a crows foot wrench that can be used with a torque wrench. 20-30 ft lbs. When you use shims to locate the index tab on the FH, the tab may or may not locate exactly at 6 o'clock......the 10 lb range on torque allows a little "cheat" when trying to get the tab right at 6 0'clock. There's no way you can get an accurate torque with a Cresent or regular open end wrench. I bought a whole set at AutoZone for 15 bucks. If you have a NAPA close by you can probably buy just the 3/4" by itself. 
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 1:04:10 PM EDT
[Last Edit: ArmedFerret]
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By hatexoc:
What did y'all use to tighten the flash hider? All of my 3/4" wrenches and crescent wrenches are too wide i use these . They're very thin and easy to get purchase on suppressor mounts where a normal wrench may be too thick. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 1:33:42 PM EDT
[#23]
Does no one bother to adhere to SureFires instructions as far as torque goes? I'm guessing they have a torque spec for a reason.
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 1:38:48 PM EDT
[#24]
A few pages back, I think it was Augee that posted the pic of all the DoD stickers............the QR or DM matrix's, or what ever they are called. His all show Mfg/part #/serial #. I have some pics that a member sent me some time back. They were pics of his issue CQBR and the sticker had this info........cage code/part #/ serial # Is there any rhyme or reason for the difference? I planned on getting one made up for my carbine, but would like to get the correct tag. Any suggestions?
Thanks. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 1:46:24 PM EDT
[#25]
I am getting my Surefire RC next week
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 1:46:35 PM EDT
[#26]
300
|
|
|
|
TX, USA
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 2:00:06 PM EDT
[#27]
coming soon....
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 2:13:16 PM EDT
[Last Edit: safetyoff]
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Stoner25mkiv: Does no one bother to adhere to SureFires instructions as far as torque goes? I'm guessing they have a torque spec for a reason. ETA: less torque is always the better side to err on. With a stand alone brake (not to be used for a can adapter) hand tight is plenty. My point is Torque spec is to keep it dummy proof as far as becoming loose and causing a strike, (unless pinned and welded checking your muzzle device, suppressor attachment should be SOP) or getting it too tight and changing the muzzle dimension. Rockset when applied correctly takes care of a device not tightened to "spec numbers"
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 2:29:40 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By m4socom:
coming soon.... Wtf is this shit? No 4 prong pics? GTFO 
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 3:11:46 PM EDT
[Last Edit: StealthGuy]
[#30]
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 3:13:31 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By StealthGuy:
Place holder. Same. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 3:20:33 PM EDT
[#32]
Place holder
Here is the starting point, now if I could just find a 4 prong FH......   |
|
|
|
CO, USA
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 3:21:32 PM EDT
[#33]
Really looking fwd to the pics on this page!
I have been shooting a lot lately without the VFG. Starting to like it more and more. I think it would be even better with a RIS II... If only I could find one 
Super crappy potato pics 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 3:24:21 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Stoner25mkiv]
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By safetyoff:
The instructions per the booklet show a clock-like indexing drawing for shims. Once the proper hand tight combined shim thickness brake/FH alignment is obtained it is then tightened to the 6:00 position regardless of ACTUAL torque numbers. The desired torque range is obtained by following the index/shim drawing. ETA: less torque is always the better side to err on. With a stand alone brake (not to be used for a can adapter) hand tight is plenty. My point is Torque spec is to keep it dummy proof as far as becoming loose and causing a strike, (unless pinned and welded checking your muzzle device, suppressor attachment should be SOP) or getting it too tight and changing the muzzle dimension. Rockset when applied correctly takes care of a device not tightened to "spec numbers" Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By safetyoff:
Originally Posted By Stoner25mkiv:
Does no one bother to adhere to SureFires instructions as far as torque goes? I'm guessing they have a torque spec for a reason. ETA: less torque is always the better side to err on. With a stand alone brake (not to be used for a can adapter) hand tight is plenty. My point is Torque spec is to keep it dummy proof as far as becoming loose and causing a strike, (unless pinned and welded checking your muzzle device, suppressor attachment should be SOP) or getting it too tight and changing the muzzle dimension. Rockset when applied correctly takes care of a device not tightened to "spec numbers" I believe you need to go back and read the instructions again if I understand what you are trying to say. No where in the instruction booklet I have does it say that ACTUAL torque to get it to 6 o'clock is irrelevant. It says to hand tighten and then look at the "clock" to determine which shims to go with. Install those shims and tighten to 20-30 ft lbs, and if 20-30 ft lbs takes the index pin notch to BDC, then procede to step 6. That doesn't mean to stop at BDC (6 o'clock) if you are less than 20 ft lbs, and it doesn't mean to use more than 30 ft lbs if that's what it takes to get it to BDC. If 20-30 ft lbs doesn't get it to locate at BDC (6 o'clock) then you have to add or subtract shim to make it locate at BDC with 20-30 ft lbs torque. In simplified terms, you have to dry run the set up until it locates at 6 @ 20-30 ft lbs. Then you can take it apart and apply Rockset and reassemble. I think you might be misconstruing what Step 5 of their instructions is saying: Step 4 says to thread adaptor and any required shims onto barrel until hand tight. Then, Step 5 says to torque adapter to 20-30 ft lbs....then blah blah blah. When suppressor index pin notch on adapter is bottom dead center (BDC) move on to Step 6. That doesn't mean to stop short of 20 ft lbs, nor go past 30, to get it to BDC. If 20-30 doesn't get it to BDC then you need to reevaluate your shim selection. Not trying to get into a pissing match, but assuming someone wants to do it "by the book", that is how you would do it. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 3:38:20 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By AstraPat:
Really looking fwd to the pics on this page! I have been shooting a lot lately without the VFG. Starting to like it more and more. I think it would be even better with a RIS II... If only I could find one
Super crappy potato pics http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq82/astrapat/e1d839539a848b6356c512364551f2c0_zps6b1a4b7d.jpg http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq82/astrapat/c57a899c189a7514a421b672842a4de9_zps3c6fbab8.jpg You don't need no stinkin RIS II it's perfect how it is. If it was mine i'd keep it as-is and lose the BAD lever 
|
|
|
|
CO, USA
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 3:48:15 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MILSPEC556:
You don't need no stinkin RIS II it's perfect how it is. If it was mine i'd keep it as-is and lose the BAD lever Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Originally Posted By AstraPat:
Really looking fwd to the pics on this page! I have been shooting a lot lately without the VFG. Starting to like it more and more. I think it would be even better with a RIS II... If only I could find one
Super crappy potato pics http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq82/astrapat/e1d839539a848b6356c512364551f2c0_zps6b1a4b7d.jpg http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq82/astrapat/c57a899c189a7514a421b672842a4de9_zps3c6fbab8.jpg You don't need no stinkin RIS II it's perfect how it is. If it was mine i'd keep it as-is and lose the BAD lever Haha, thanks! Prob should, but being a lefty, it really speeds up my ability to send the bolt home during mag changes. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 3:54:10 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By AstraPat:
Haha, thanks! Prob should, but being a lefty, it really speeds up my ability to send the bolt home during mag changes. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By AstraPat:
Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Originally Posted By AstraPat:
Really looking fwd to the pics on this page! I have been shooting a lot lately without the VFG. Starting to like it more and more. I think it would be even better with a RIS II... If only I could find one
Super crappy potato pics http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq82/astrapat/e1d839539a848b6356c512364551f2c0_zps6b1a4b7d.jpg http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq82/astrapat/c57a899c189a7514a421b672842a4de9_zps3c6fbab8.jpg You don't need no stinkin RIS II it's perfect how it is. If it was mine i'd keep it as-is and lose the BAD lever Haha, thanks! Prob should, but being a lefty, it really speeds up my ability to send the bolt home during mag changes. I feel it. I used to use one as well and even being a righty it sped my reloads up as well, but I didn't want it to become a crutch (which it was) so I ditched it. I like the ide of picking up any AR and being able to manipulate it with speed more than I cared about the time I saved with one. Its all personal preference tho |
|
|
|
VA, USA
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 3:54:13 PM EDT
[#38]
 " />
|
|
|
TX, USA
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 4:08:16 PM EDT
[Last Edit: TacticalR]
[#39]
Molon Labe...300
Got an H buffer and different spring. Hopefully get to break in the SF RC on Sunday! |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 4:23:24 PM EDT
[Last Edit: MILSPEC556]
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TacticalR:
Molon Labe...300 http://<a href=http://i1315.photobucket.com/albums/t597/RoberaH/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsb77126a0.jpg</a>" /> Got an H buffer and different spring. Hopefully get to break in the SF RC on Sunday! Dayaum son. Where'd you get the kryptek dip done? |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 4:28:54 PM EDT
[#41]
Posted this before but, might as well get in on page 300..
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 4:31:24 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TacticalR:
Molon Labe...300 http://<a href=http://i1315.photobucket.com/albums/t597/RoberaH/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsb77126a0.jpg</a>" /> Got an H buffer and different spring. Hopefully get to break in the SF RC on Sunday! This rig makes me think so many impure thoughts. |
|
|
|
TX, USA
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 4:34:58 PM EDT
[Last Edit: TacticalR]
[#43]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Dayaum son. Where'd you get the kryptek dip done? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Originally Posted By TacticalR:
Molon Labe...300 Got an H buffer and different spring. Hopefully get to break in the SF RC on Sunday! Dayaum son. Where'd you get the kryptek dip done? Joint Force Enterprises in Fla. Edit...the build was a labor of love and thanks for the lustful complements guys! Just trying to keep pace but differentiate from some of the other supreme builds here. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 4:49:43 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TacticalR:
Molon Labe...300 http://<a href=http://i1315.photobucket.com/albums/t597/RoberaH/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsb77126a0.jpg Got an H buffer and different spring. Hopefully get to break in the SF RC on Sunday! Me likey!!! |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 4:51:43 PM EDT
[#45]
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 5:12:42 PM EDT
[#46]
Reserved for 300.
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 5:46:51 PM EDT
[#47]
Reserved
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 6:17:19 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Stoner25mkiv]
[#48]
Engraved the 80% lower to make it as correct as I could. 
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 6:19:36 PM EDT
[Last Edit: ArmedFerret]
[#49]
In on 300 too.
Stamp's a work in progress. As is a real SF4P. I have a friend in the right places.
mk18_pistol_1 by Armed Ferret, on Flickr 
mk18_pistol_2 by Armed Ferret, on Flickr 
mk18_pistol_3 by Armed Ferret, on Flickr |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/31/2014 6:23:18 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ArmedFerret:
In on 300 too. Although mine may be not entirely clone correct for a while, I'm bout to get a barrel just to get it up and running for a class soon. All you gotta do is leave the law guns 553 on it to make up for temporary clone incorrectness. It's hard to give someone shit for not being clone correct when they literally have the most correct optic there is, if that makes any sense whatsoever 
What's wrong with the barrel on it? Shot out already? |
|
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
