I have changed the transmission oil in my vehicles and they have magnets in the transmission pan. Each time I've dropped the pan I've seen similar attached to the magnet.

Of course, if it's attached to the magnet it's not aluminum.

I still think it's ok.

So what ive found is shavings and dust are fine for the first 200, chunks are bad. Gonna cut her open this weekend but seeing the shavings on the magnet I'm highly doubtful I'll find chunks deeper in the filter.

Nope, just seeing what is caught in the filter itself.  What you find in the filter can tell you if you have an issue and what it may be.  Sounds like you're already on the right track 

Aluminum will tell you if you have a bearing out. Nylon race keeper's will tell you if a bearing lost it's race caps. I don't know if kabota still uses an aluminum body hydraulic pump. Shavings are more than likely from the throw out gear on the pto.

Dealer is still saying June 20 delivery to them.  I'll believe it when I see it .  On a higher note I found out they are a dealer for Rim Guard, the rear end will be 470 lbs heavier when we take delivery . Now to find a deal on wheel weights...

I got it in the tires of my Duetz 420. I love it!!!

We've always just used water...

We get this northern phenomenon called winter 

The old Farmall H and Ferguson TO30 we had when I was growing up had calcium.  Never again...

Boy in the winter even here methanol even occasionally freezes then your tractor shakes it's ass like a mexican stripper.

Not to mention the rim rust. Calcium was hell on rims. Not to mention valve stems.

They are loading them with Beet juice in my area now.  So I have one tractor with Calcium filled and One with Beets.

Just be sure to run the valve stem to the top of the rim to check pressure. My wife killed two gauges with the rim guard beat juice.

Check pressure on the rears? Can't say I've ever done that, always just watched the tread under load.

$800.00 tires last longer when you keep them at pressure. I don't think I have ever checked the rear baby kabota tires. But I keep my eyes on the 6615 and the Duetz 420. The 5520 I kinda meeh it.

Makes sense. Something I've never really thought about though.  Thanks!

How'd that kill the gauges though? Beat juice isn't corrosive. Just gum em up?

Stopped them up butt good. It's not really sticky until the air gets to it. But it made the gauges not want to return to zero.

Next question.... You called it rim guard beat juice...   Are rim guard and beat juice separate things for adding weight to a tire? Or is rim guard weight, simply beat juice instead of Calcium?

New (ish now) got beat juice over Calcium for two reasons.  1. The dealer had both options. 2. Beat juice weighed more than the Calcium.

The Blue one is mine. Just stopped over to help the neighbor with his disaster.

Rim Guard is the trade name for beet juice and the only beet juice based ballast to my knowledge.  There is also calcium and Counterweight Blue.  Not sure what CB is made from.

As answered, RG is the trade name for beet juice.  It's the good stuff for ballasting tractor tires.

The only downsides are that it's expensive (~$3/gal), can only be installed by a dealer and is only available north of TN/KY state line (per RG rep a couple years ago).

Won't freeze until ~-40 degrees F, weighs around 11 lb/gallon, non-corrosive and is totally non-toxic.  Perfect material for tire ballasting.  If I could a 55 gallon drum of it, I'd put it in my tractor tires.

Correct. I don't know what the blue stuff is. Beat juice is biodegradable. Sometimes you can get it from your county road department at the end of winter.

Per their website they have dealers in 44 states now.  Might check again.  Also Counterweight Blue is almost as good and a guy at work just got it a bit cheaper than RG.  They had a lot of dealers down in KY and some in TN IIRC.

I just didn't realize it had a trade name. TIL.

I had to unload some power from the truck today.


The bag on top is 50lbs of smithing coal for a project latter this summer.   So Old power and new power.

Where does it say that on their website?  Per this link (see right side) it says call them to find a dealer (which is what I did a couple years ago):  http://www.rimguard.biz/

On their contact page.  Still have to call to find specific dealers.  Why they can't list dealers on their website is beyond me. 

• To find a Rim Guard® dealer in your area, please call or email us. We will provide you with the name, address and phone number of your nearest dealer. We currently have over 950 dealers in 44 states and 6 Canadian provinces.

Calcium is nasty crap, I have it in one tractor and in the tires for another and I can't wait to get rid of it.

I am going to iron weights, they never leak or rot rims.  No special dealer to buy and they never go bad.

Anyway it has been awhile in the works but I have successfully added another horse to my fleet, a 1950 WD.

I found it like this in 2015:



The terms of the sale was "come and get it or I am going to scrap it, I am tired of looking at it"

Engine turned and rumor had it it had a WD-45 crank so why not.

So I put a combine tire and wheel on the one corner (rim was gone from fluid) and hauled it home.  Put the other combine tire on it since the one that looked up was actually flat but full of fluid.  Went to change the oil and the drain plug was stuck.  Dropped the pan full of oil and heated the plug so it would come out and reinstall with a new gasket.  Noted it did in fact have the bigger crank and overbore aluminum pistons so that was good.  Put oil in it and the tappet cover on the side of the engine leaked badly so I replaced that.  Changed plugs and points and rebuild carb.  Motorola alternator was froze so I replaced it with the stock V6 alternator from my Ranger and rewired the tractor.  Stuck a battery on it and tried to start it, turned over real slow and drained the battery fast.  Pulled starter and cleaned/lubed it.  Whipped over like a champ but only kinda sorta tried to hit on one cyl.  Checked compression, only #1 had any and it wasn't much.  Checked around and the manifold was full of dead bugs, pulled the manifold and tried to vacuum it out to no avail.  Pulled the head, ground the valves, touched up the seats and replaced four guides.  Stuck the head back on and it leaked, pulled it back off and noted the new tappet cover gasket was a little bigger than it needed to be and it was interfering with the headgasket so I trimmed that and installed with another new headgasket.  Runs beautiful but the water pump and the radiator were leaking.  Replace those (radiator was rotten and not worth fixing)  Replace the one blown out front tire with a used one with a new tube.  Flushed the fuel tank out by setting it on the dog tie out in the yard and flushing with the garden hose... dog tie out punched thru bottom of the tank so I found another tank.  New sediment bowl and fuel lines.

Runs great now!



I think the original tires can be saved with new tubes and it came with a better rim (that is yellow)

Tried to take down a tree today, didn't work out too well, will be in the hospital a couple days....


https://www.liveleak.com/view?i=042_1496858096

Damnit man I know you don't feel lucky but your guardian angel was looking out for you.  I hope you recover quickly.

That is a beautiful WD and you got it at a good price(free).  Only thing I would do is put a wide front axle on it but that is just my preference.  Enjoy.

Wide fronts are neat but I always grew up with them being trikes so that is the "norm" to me.  Besides that they are more maneuverable and they stack in sheds better.

On these converting kind of sucks, that whole front casting between the frame rails is different.  There was a company that made aftermarket kits that left the pedestal in the middle... they look really weird.

Why is the US not funding those heat seaking trees, the second you de-assed the tractor with the quickness the tree decided to turn too

Glad yous semi-good, any good battlescars?

Mowed hay today with my Farmall 806 and the IH 990 mower... didn't take any pictures this go around though.  Will snap a few on Monday when I go ted everything with my Super C.

Got another one!

Third one down, I'm onna roll!!!

Ok guys, back to reality. 

Here's a couple things I did with my tractor today.

First Up:  Move my Taj Mahal Upgrade deer shooting shack out of the shop so I can roof, side it and finish it:







2nd, Attach my elevated work platform to my tractor forks and change out the crappy garage outdoor light fixture with a LED version.  Need to work +15' in the air, no problemo:






Oh, and last but not least:  The Bushhog Wars of 2017 have started!






Thanks for reading!

Well considering I didnt see the ghost busters meme cause it wouldn't load until just now......phooy on you

Was doing other random feed moving and it got to be chore time so skipped the pig the easy way

It is metal shavings. That's one of the reasons for having a magnet at the filter....pull those magnetic metal particles out.

You might be surprised at how much metal shavings your oil filtration system pulls out of an engine and even more so, a transmission. Most transmissions have magnets inside to help catch that metal.

Some people even put a magnetic oil plug or magnetic oil dipstick on engines.....helps to remove excess metal shavings.....which all engines and transmissions have.

Well this was a couple of days worth.
Cut the haygrazer pig weed mix.




I know the trailer wasn't loaded but the ac doesn't work in the skidsteer and I was reading to call it good.

What percent moisture do you aim for?

50 to 60% on the haygrazer and 40 to  50% on clovers or vetch mix with rye grass. Wheat and oats I try to shoot for 50 to 60%. If I get to high it seems like I get scours and have to mix some calcium and bentonite in to control it. If I drop to low say 25 to 30% it just doesn't ensile as well and my tdn goes down a bit. Along with palatablity. 65 to 70% is really hard on the equipment and you get into a dangerous area with bovine emphasimia. It heats the rumen up to much and mimics pneumonia.

The mixer allows me to test then mix my hay to hayledge ratio. My vetch was a little mature so my tdn will be down but my haygrazer should counter act and the pig weed should give me a little urea for my dry hay. Don't know for sure yet but I will test it in a couple of months.