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Posted: 7/27/2009 5:04:34 PM EDT
I have a fair amount of food and water, generator, first aid, and of course defense weapons and lots of ammo.
I have a pretty good truck, 1988 toyota 4x4, that has been modified for ultimate reliability, and off road capability. but it is still a work in progress. I could still put another $5000 into it to finish it and make it damn near bullet proof. my dilemma is I could leave it as it is, it runs well but is not where I want it to be,but if the economy really nose dives I don't think I could get the work done to finish it, and a really capable truck would be a nice thing to have if things don't turn around for several years and roads and society get a little rough around the edges. It's one of those durable goods ideas, like refrigerators, washing machines, and generators. or I could save the cash and just sit on the money for "just in case" situations. but I think the dollar is really not going to be worth much after this year and probably not for another 5-10 years as well. any input from the hive? |
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It doesn't need to be bulletproof, you'll be taking it far easier with wife, kids, and gear on board.
Don't let the perfect become the enemy of good enough. Ops |
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Mind posting what you want to want to upgrade? Maybe there are some stuff that you could go with out.
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I was where you are at 30-years ago during the last Arab oil induced depression. Inflation was eating away dollars at rest so I spend them as fast as I could. I bought a lot of durable goods and "fun stuff". After losing 75% of my life savings in the Savings and Loan collapse I found a whole 'nuther distrust of the banking system and the greedy bastards that run it. Oddly enough we're in the exact same space as we were in the early 1980s - an Arab oil induced depression and banks collapsing due to the theft of funds.
My one saving grace was working for the military my retirement savings were taken out automatically for 24 years. Since those days long ago the military now offers a thrift savings plan that allows the soldiers, sailors, and airmen to add their own money. Those that can ought to toss in $50 or $100 a month starting this payday. Now that I'm a civilian I'm pouring money into my retirement savings and I am living very comfortably now and have my military retirement to take care of me and mine. It is about a 98% chance that you'll live to retirement age and every dollar you put away today will pay back three in 36 years given normal steady up and down returns. There's about a 99.9999999% chance that the end of the world won't come during your life time and even smaller chance over the next five years. Don't forgo your obligation to yourself to buy things for your truck - pay yourself first, save your money until you've got 6-months invested in something instrument you can put your hands on quickly. |
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There's used bulletproof cars that sometimes get sold rather cheap, ex gov or CIT.
I like the idea of bulletproof and runflats becuase I've heard of several people alredy avoiding kidnappings and carjacks thanks to them. Last time was in Brazil, last week, a soccer player's wife called Wanda Nara.(armored SUV) Still, this is worth the investment only in serious high crime areas or if you have the money for it and/or other important things covered. FerFAL |
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There's used bulletproof cars that sometimes get sold rather cheap, ex gov or CIT. I like the idea of bulletproof and runflats becuase I've heard of several people alredy avoiding kidnappings and carjacks thanks to them. Last time was in Brazil, last week, a soccer player's wife called Wanda Nara.(armored SUV) Still, this is worth the investment only in serious high crime areas or if you have the money for it and/or other important things covered. FerFAL FerFAL, I didn't mean real bullets. that's a $50,000 up grade in America. I meant fully reliable and heavy duty utility. I hear you Paul, sometimes I just let my paranoia get the better of me. |
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Now is not the time..........id settle for what you got and see where we are in a year
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Compromise , Upgrade the parts with the highest probability of failure and set on the rest . I could do the same with my jeep but there are componets that Ive decided that just are not worth the money to upgrade . I just got to keep them in mind when I depress the stupid pedal.
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Mind posting what you want to want to upgrade? Maybe there are some stuff that you could go with out. this. tell us what you're planning and we can give you input on which items are a go and which should be no go. |
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You're wanting to put $5,000 or more into a fully depreciated truck. You do understand that if in the unfortunate event someone destroys your truck in an auto accident it will be difficult to recover your investment from an insurance settlement. The insurance company will only want to pay blue book KBB.com gives a private sale value $3000 for excellent condition full options SR5 with 200,000 miles.
The 2 BOVs in this photo only bust the $5,000 cost because I count the cost of the bike rack. Work in progress BOV Those are 32 inch tires and I could go up to 33 without lift when I buy new tires I do believe that there are better investments that your $5k could be put to |
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if you plan on keeping the truck i say go for it as long as it doesnt put you in the poor house. most modified cars and trucks are not worth what is in them. but if its what you want and like go for it. i have an 86 iroc that is prob book value of 2-5 grand tops. my brakes and wheels and tires cost more then that. not to mention the 402 smallblock and procharger going in it. lol. i dont plan on selling it so the money in it is worth it to me and thats all that matters. plus im hopping to get around 20mpg with it and still do 9's at the track.
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Mind posting what you want to want to upgrade? Maybe there are some stuff that you could go with out. this. tell us what you're planning and we can give you input on which items are a go and which should be no go. ok, rebuild the leaf springs, they have over 200,000 miles on them, the grommets are the old rubber, and are cracked and some of the leafs are bent. rebuild the transmission, same 200,000 miles on it, it's a 5 speed and besides leaking a little fluid from the front seal, it shifts perfect. (the leak is what bothers me because I already replaced the seal once before. Transfer case rebuild. even though it see's less wear than the tranny, it is still original. move my winch control box to under the hood, it's getting a little weathered from sitting on top of the winch in the snow and sun. a new set of Pro-Comp gauges to monitor the critical parts. quick steer pitman arm. the stock one takes a lot of turns to move the 33" tires comparatively. new shocks, the bilstiens have been hammered. and just a general under carriage maintenance and lube. I need better zerks on all my tie rod ends and other grease points as well. new windshield. and rear glass for the shell. it sounds like a lot, but I tell you the truck is pretty tough, I just want to round it out to fresh condition. http://img266.imageshack.us/i/bodietrip038.jpg/ others have addressed the cons of older vehicles, but that being said, if you still plan to go forward, and i completely understand why, then i'd focus on the red, for obvious reasons. the blue is pretty much what i'd consider not needed repairs, but good ideas. unless, of course, the windshield is spider webbed to the point of not being able to see out of it, then i'd make it a priority. the trans and transfer case on those toyotas are pretty damn bullet proof, even w/ larger tires. i'm not sure you'd need a complete rebuild, i.e., near gears etc, but new seals/gaskets couldn't hurt, but i'd have a pro take a look at the internal wear and give you their opinion. zerks are cheap and easy. so is the lube job, just takes time and getting dirty. both are essential, however, so get under there yourself. leaf springs should run less than $200 each for some old man emus, last time i checked, you could redo your entire suspension package (incl. torsion bars, leafs, shocks, etc.) for less than $1300. before you spent all kinds of money on it, i'd make sure the engine was still in good enough shape to keep on keepin' on. my '91 crapped out at 165k when the timing chain finally wore a hole through the engine block and i was getting mixing of oil and coolant. i couldn't be w/o a vehicle, so i bought a newer one, but i love that truck, had it for almost 10 years. overall, i'd pay cash for each repair/upgrade and slowly work on them. don't put anything on credit. i wouldn't dump entire paychecks into it either. none of your repairs are absolutely must-do-now type of repairs, and being that this is the SF, i'd set aside a little cash each month for the truck parts/repairs/upgrade and make sure you're getting your other preps in place, as well as putting away a cash reserve for emergencies. now if you already have all your preps in place and a cash reserve, then have at it, as long as you can pay cash. btw, are you running stock diff gears? that was one of my few complaints w/ my truck, after i upgraded tires, i all but lost 5th gear; it was almost useless, except on flat ground w/ a tail wind. i planned to upgrade after grad school, but the engine died first. |
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Mind posting what you want to want to upgrade? Maybe there are some stuff that you could go with out. this. tell us what you're planning and we can give you input on which items are a go and which should be no go. ok, rebuild the leaf springs, they have over 200,000 miles on them, the grommets are the old rubber, and are cracked and some of the leafs are bent. rebuild the transmission, same 200,000 miles on it, it's a 5 speed and besides leaking a little fluid from the front seal, it shifts perfect. (the leak is what bothers me because I already replaced the seal once before. Transfer case rebuild. even though it see's less wear than the tranny, it is still original. move my winch control box to under the hood, it's getting a little weathered from sitting on top of the winch in the snow and sun. a new set of Pro-Comp gauges to monitor the critical parts. quick steer pitman arm. the stock one takes a lot of turns to move the 33" tires comparatively. new shocks, the bilstiens have been hammered. and just a general under carriage maintenance and lube. I need better zerks on all my tie rod ends and other grease points as well. new windshield. and rear glass for the shell. it sounds like a lot, but I tell you the truck is pretty tough, I just want to round it out to fresh condition. http://img266.imageshack.us/i/bodietrip038.jpg/ others have addressed the cons of older vehicles, but that being said, if you still plan to go forward, and i completely understand why, then i'd focus on the red, for obvious reasons. the blue is pretty much what i'd consider not needed repairs, but good ideas. unless, of course, the windshield is spider webbed to the point of not being able to see out of it, then i'd make it a priority. the trans and transfer case on those toyotas are pretty damn bullet proof, even w/ larger tires. i'm not sure you'd need a complete rebuild, i.e., near gears etc, but new seals/gaskets couldn't hurt, but i'd have a pro take a look at the internal wear and give you their opinion. zerks are cheap and easy. so is the lube job, just takes time and getting dirty. both are essential, however, so get under there yourself. leaf springs should run less than $200 each for some old man emus, last time i checked, you could redo your entire suspension package (incl. torsion bars, leafs, shocks, etc.) for less than $1300. I don't have torsion bars anymore, I converted to a straight axle. ( what are old man emu's?) before you spent all kinds of money on it, i'd make sure the engine was still in good enough shape to keep on keepin' on. my '91 crapped out at 165k when the timing chain finally wore a hole through the engine block and i was getting mixing of oil and coolant. i couldn't be w/o a vehicle, so i bought a newer one, but i love that truck, had it for almost 10 years.New rebilt engine 25,000 agosmells like it runs a little rich, can't find the reason. overall, i'd pay cash for each repair/upgrade and slowly work on them. don't put anything on credit. i wouldn't dump entire paychecks into it either. none of your repairs are absolutely must-do-now type of repairs, and being that this is the SF, i'd set aside a little cash each month for the truck parts/repairs/upgrade and make sure you're getting your other preps in place, as well as putting away a cash reserve for emergencies. now if you already have all your preps in place and a cash reserve, then have at it, as long as you can pay cash.I have well over $25,000 in reserve with a mix of PM's and cash. about 1 months worth of store bought food in reserve, a garden, tools (auto and construction) and defense weapons. btw, are you running stock diff gears? that was one of my few complaints w/ my truck, after i upgraded tires, i all but lost 5th gear; it was almost useless, except on flat ground w/ a tail wind. i planned to upgrade after grad school, but the engine died first.I have new bigger gears in the diffs. ARB air locker in the rear, and if I could figure out how to post pics I would post a pic of my truck. looks like I go half way there on the pic and it's in the link in the above post. |
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You're wanting to put $5,000 or more into a fully depreciated truck. You do understand that if in the unfortunate event someone destroys your truck in an auto accident it will be difficult to recover your investment from an insurance settlement. The insurance company will only want to pay blue book KBB.com gives a private sale value $3000 for excellent condition full options SR5 with 200,000 miles. The 2 BOVs in this photo only bust the $5,000 cost because I count the cost of the bike rack. Work in progress BOV http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u142/PA22-400/CIMG0702.jpg Those are 32 inch tires and I could go up to 33 without lift when I buy new tires I do believe that there are better investments that your $5k could be put to while I fully agree with you on the poor investment aspect, this truck is more than just an investment, it's a source of joy and entertainment, while I could spend myself into the poor house insuring everything against loss, things like ATV's, small boats, race cars and off road trucks are just a few of the things that are counter productive to insure. all my cars and trucks are paid for, long ago. and without trying to offend (I am not really) your suburban would get you only as far as the road goes and dry trails. my truck has made significant portions of the Rubicon trail, been rolled over, up to it's doors in mud, crossed blind streams 2-1/2 feet deep, the winch used to rescue other trucks as well as myself, and blasted 50 MPH down fire trails frequently getting airborne and still kept going. sometimes a thing is worth more than it's dollar value. |
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If you have the money and you are looking at it as a hobby, why not go for it?
I love the old toyota minis. Probably some of the longest lasting vehicles ever sold stateside...as long as they never saw road salt. I always used to want one but could never find any in OH that were not rusted out. |
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at storm walker: i'd tell you to get a good bit more food. get 3 months worth of what you eat normally, then put away some longer storage stuff, wheat/rice/oats, or some freeze dried. but i'd go ahead and spend the money since you already have a good reserve.
here's the pic of truck by the way old man emu builds off road products. they have a lot of products for toyotas, such as suspension systems/parts. good move on replacing the IFS. i never had a problem w/ mine being a limiting factor, but i also didn't wheel on hardcore rocks. |
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You're wanting to put $5,000 or more into a fully depreciated truck. You do understand that if in the unfortunate event someone destroys your truck in an auto accident it will be difficult to recover your investment from an insurance settlement. The insurance company will only want to pay blue book KBB.com gives a private sale value $3000 for excellent condition full options SR5 with 200,000 miles. The 2 BOVs in this photo only bust the $5,000 cost because I count the cost of the bike rack. Work in progress BOV http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u142/PA22-400/CIMG0702.jpg Those are 32 inch tires and I could go up to 33 without lift when I buy new tires I do believe that there are better investments that your $5k could be put to while I fully agree with you on the poor investment aspect, this truck is more than just an investment, it's a source of joy and entertainment, while I could spend myself into the poor house insuring everything against loss, things like ATV's, small boats, race cars and off road trucks are just a few of the things that are counter productive to insure. all my cars and trucks are paid for, long ago. and without trying to offend (I am not really) your suburban would get you only as far as the road goes and dry trails. my truck has made significant portions of the Rubicon trail, been rolled over, up to it's doors in mud, crossed blind streams 2-1/2 feet deep, the winch used to rescue other trucks as well as myself, and blasted 50 MPH down fire trails frequently getting airborne and still kept going. sometimes a thing is worth more than it's dollar value. In the context of SF: Truck = BOV to be used to transport personnel and equipment out of harms way or other vital missions. In the context of my personal experience; all my bug outs have been retreat to home events. I do not have the time now to go mud bogging, or a place to keep an appropriate mud truck. I do not have time to get to rock trails, so no need for a crawler. What I do is travel for medical care, and groceries that cannot be bought locally. I use a vehicle to haul people over hundreds of miles. So the Suburban does the mission it is intended to do; all weather personnel carrier. The 4x4 is to keep the horses on the pavement. Since the Toyota is not vital to your needs, so that if someone were to destroy it by crashing into it; the loss would be lamented but not a catastrophe. Do as you wish and invest the money where it will bring you the greatest reward. |
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PA22-400.
your truck seems to fill your roll very well, as long as the traffic cooperates and the bridges are not down due to an earthquake. or a flood hasn't taken out the road or a train derailed right in front of you and you have to cross some farmers field to escape the poisonous gasses spilling out from the tanker car. while all of these are less likely than winning the lotto, isn't that why we prepare? most likely all of us are going to die from old age or some mundane event, like falling off a ladder putting up Christmas decorations, heart attack or something like that. Survival prep is about 99% fantasy prep and 1% actual use to save our bacon. so why not dream. |
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No matter what you do to it, it is still a 21 YO vehicle.
I would not be putting a whole lot of money into it. No matter what you do, it will never be as reliable as a newer one. For what you are thinking of putting into it, and what it is probably worth, you could put a really nice downpayment on a new one and with the various incentives not have to take on much of a loan. |
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Consider the post that makes the comments about "good enough".
It is an older vehicle and could use some stuff and I could see putting some money into it but I would not do it all at once and I would not pay someone to do some of the jobs. Leaf springs are easy to do and you can buy some already assembled and ready to just bolt on. Coil springs or torsion bars are something to read up about for your specific vehicle and decide what you think about doing it yourself. For spring work I would use a spring shop. They normally work on medium and heavy duty vehicles but when I worked in a spring shop they had no problem working on smaller vehicles as long as they had the time to do it. For leaf springs pay attention to the re-torque schedule. The posts about the value of the truck are also spot on but in today's world I can't see not fixing up a vehicle you like. |
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Cute truck. moar later; time to feed the Jr22-400s yep, cute like a wolverine. |
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Nice pickup Im not a fan of toyotas but from what I hear they can beat on pretty heavily.
Id mostly concentrate on storage if you want to make it a bov. |
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Did you do the SAS? I thought the pickups went to IFS in '86.
Nice pickup...I love those things. They were my dream truck growing up. Too bad all in OH had long rusted out by the time I hit 16 ETA: 22RE? |
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No matter what you do to it, it is still a 21 YO vehicle. I would not be putting a whole lot of money into it. No matter what you do, it will never be as reliable as a newer one. For what you are thinking of putting into it, and what it is probably worth, you could put a really nice downpayment on a new one and with the various incentives not have to take on much of a loan. not true. a friend of mine has restored various vehicles to better than new condition. he strips them down to the frame and completely rebuilds them, but he builds them the way the factory should have, but didn't. he has built amazing land cruisers and fjs. |
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I have been running Toyotas since the mid 90's. Currently have a 99 4runner, 07 4runner, and my Dad has an 05 4Runner and an 02 Tacoma. I have had a couple of Tacomas, and an FJ40, and am familiar with the older HiLux. I love them, can you tell?
I also have a 97 Dodge 2500 extended cab 4x4 with the CTD in it. March of 07, the SHTF in my hometown. The hospital, who I worked for, was DESTROYED by an F4 tornado. I was responsible for getting to the hospital 12 miles away, on the other side of the path of the tornado, and organizing the evacuation of all patients utilizing the ambulances that came in from surrounding counties to assist us. Those that could get there anyway. I thought briefly about previous experiences in floods and other natural disasters, and chose the Tacoma (2WD Prerunner) over the big Dodge. The reason? Small, reliable, great ground clearance, and did I mention reliable? and TUFF. I felt like the small size would allow me to squeeze through areas I would have to drive over in the Dodge. Anybody that has tried to drive over trees knows it is easier to go around. The result? I was right. The Tacoma got into small areas that I would have never been able to go in the big Dodge. I got to the hospital fine, mapped a route to get the ambulances in and out of the hospital and on the road to area hospitals, and we only lost one pts finger due to a door that slammed on it during the evacuation. The hospital was torn down incidentally, and we are still without a permanent hospital. The previous administration swindled all of the relief money and an area hospital had to come in to manage the situation. That is another story though. Anyway, I think you could do far worse than what you have to start with, and would like to see a nice camper shell with rack and flip out windows on that thing. |
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I have been running Toyotas since the mid 90's. Currently have a 99 4runner, 07 4runner, and my Dad has an 05 4Runner and an 02 Tacoma. I have had a couple of Tacomas, and an FJ40, and am familiar with the older HiLux. I love them, can you tell? I also have a 97 Dodge 2500 extended cab 4x4 with the CTD in it. March of 07, the SHTF in my hometown. The hospital, who I worked for, was DESTROYED by an F4 tornado. I was responsible for getting to the hospital 12 miles away, on the other side of the path of the tornado, and organizing the evacuation of all patients utilizing the ambulances that came in from surrounding counties to assist us. Those that could get there anyway. I thought briefly about previous experiences in floods and other natural disasters, and chose the Tacoma (2WD Prerunner) over the big Dodge. The reason? Small, reliable, great ground clearance, and did I mention reliable? and TUFF. I felt like the small size would allow me to squeeze through areas I would have to drive over in the Dodge. Anybody that has tried to drive over trees knows it is easier to go around. The result? I was right. The Tacoma got into small areas that I would have never been able to go in the big Dodge. I got to the hospital fine, mapped a route to get the ambulances in and out of the hospital and on the road to area hospitals, and we only lost one pts finger due to a door that slammed on it during the evacuation. The hospital was torn down incidentally, and we are still without a permanent hospital. The previous administration swindled all of the relief money and an area hospital had to come in to manage the situation. That is another story though. Anyway, I think you could do far worse than what you have to start with, and would like to see a nice camper shell with rack and flip out windows on that thing. funny you should mention that, I just picked up a used Leer shell and have plans for just that. |
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Were I'm at I can find some nice trucks for 3-5K depending on taste. Right now expecially I have seen some nice deals.
I've always wanted a 79 F250 4x4. I know were there is a good one with a solid body and it runs, 4x4 works for 1K. I would have to go through it front to back to get it the way I would like it, but, I could do it over time, and have it still be drivable during most of the process. Thats the kinda truck I would keep till I'm gone, but, not really wanting a long term prodject right now. Not to mention last years fuel prices got me not wanting anymore v8's. |
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PA walks to pantry and remembers that he needs to get V8 at the grocery store.
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Were I'm at I can find some nice trucks for 3-5K depending on taste. Right now expecially I have seen some nice deals. I've always wanted a 79 F250 4x4. I know were there is a good one with a solid body and it runs, 4x4 works for 1K. I would have to go through it front to back to get it the way I would like it, but, I could do it over time, and have it still be drivable during most of the process. Thats the kinda truck I would keep till I'm gone, but, not really wanting a long term prodject right now. Not to mention last years fuel prices got me not wanting anymore v8's. gas economy tends to even out once you get into custom, most EFI V8's get around 10-15 MPG and my 4cyl Toyota gets about that with all the modifications. to be honest, if I had to do it all over again, I would have gone with a V8 Chevy 4x4. |
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Mind posting what you want to want to upgrade? Maybe there are some stuff that you could go with out. this. tell us what you're planning and we can give you input on which items are a go and which should be no go. ok, rebuild the leaf springs, they have over 200,000 miles on them, the grommets are the old rubber, and are cracked and some of the leafs are bent. rebuild the transmission, same 200,000 miles on it, it's a 5 speed and besides leaking a little fluid from the front seal, it shifts perfect. (the leak is what bothers me because I already replaced the seal once before. Transfer case rebuild. even though it see's less wear than the tranny, it is still original. move my winch control box to under the hood, it's getting a little weathered from sitting on top of the winch in the snow and sun. a new set of Pro-Comp gauges to monitor the critical parts. quick steer pitman arm. the stock one takes a lot of turns to move the 33" tires comparatively. new shocks, the bilstiens have been hammered. and just a general under carriage maintenance and lube. I need better zerks on all my tie rod ends and other grease points as well. new windshield. and rear glass for the shell. it sounds like a lot, but I tell you the truck is pretty tough, I just want to round it out to fresh condition. http://img266.imageshack.us/i/bodietrip038.jpg/ I'm still not seeing $5k in that list. If you hired someone to do the repairs and upgrades yea there is $5k there, but if you turn the wrenches na not $5k there. |
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I think that you have a pretty awesome start
The truck is already pretty damn sound, you have a solid drivetrain (solid front axle, and the 22RE is a half million+ mile engine if you take care of it) and you already have pretty good body armor with the front and rear bumpers, roll bar and rock sliders. I would start with any preventative maintanance that may need done (spark plugs, timing belt, oil/ water pump, fuel filter, fuel pump, etc) that hasn't already been done in the engine rebuild. I would also repack the front wheel bearings and replace if necessary, check out a front axle rebuild kit that would include new seals for the closed knuckle front axle, and replace the oil in the front/ rear diffs and trans/ xfer case Putting new seals, etc into the trans and transfer case wouldn't be a bad idea, check out marlin crawler, they have rebuilt trans and transfer cases, as well as parts to rebuild your own, doing a doubler transfer case setup would be cool, but not necessary for a BOV A auxilery fuel tank for extra range wouldnt be a bad idea, but could also be solved by carrying fuel cans I would recommend staying with 35" tires or smaller for reliability, however, the toyota axles are easily upgradable to run up to 40" tires, check out longfield super axles for front axles upgrades, and poly performance for upgraded rear axle shafts, even if you stick to the smaller tires these upgrades wouldn't be a bad idea for reliability If you really want to spend some money look into swapping in the 3.4 v6 or the 2.7 inline 4 I think thone of the easiest things you could do would be to get more organized storage with some bed drawers or somthing similar, and possibly look into a 1/4 ton trailer. Since you already have a camper shell maybe you could find a good way to turn the bed into a sleeping quarters? You could also look into upgrading the roll bar into a full cage, either inside the cab, or exo for more body protection and interior room, you could also integrate a hoop over the radiator to keep that essential system intact in case of a roll over. I would stick with what you have vehicle wise, toyotas are trusted in some of the most extreme terrain in the world |
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well, I'm more of a gun guy, while I am mechanically inclined I don't have a lot of time. welding I can not do. and as long as you tell me what is broke or needs to be done I can do it, but I don't have most of the technical tools. sockets and screw drivers i got, air tools, and widgets I don't.
but your right, it shouldn't be 5k worth of stuff, I just prepare myself for the most and try to save where I can. |
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I think that you have a pretty awesome start The truck is already pretty damn sound, you have a solid drivetrain (solid front axle, and the 22RE is a half million+ mile engine if you take care of it) and you already have pretty good body armor with the front and rear bumpers, roll bar and rock sliders. I would start with any preventative maintanance that may need done (spark plugs, timing belt, oil/ water pump, fuel filter, fuel pump, etc) that hasn't already been done in the engine rebuild. I would also repack the front wheel bearings and replace if necessary, check out a front axle rebuild kit that would include new seals for the closed knuckle front axle, and replace the oil in the front/ rear diffs and trans/ xfer case axles are totally rebuilt, but the drive shafts are next on the list front and rear. Putting new seals, etc into the trans and transfer case wouldn't be a bad idea, check out marlin crawler, they have rebuilt trans and transfer cases, as well as parts to rebuild your own, doing a doubler transfer case setup would be cool, but not necessary for a BOV I wonder if seals are all it needs, the trans shifts great and has a new clutch, but to be bullet proof I wonder if I should go with total rebuild (about $1200) and another ($400 for the transfer case) A auxilery fuel tank for extra range wouldnt be a bad idea, but could also be solved by carrying fuel cans I have a dual 5 gal gas can carrier mounted next to the spare tire. I would recommend staying with 35" tires or smaller for reliability, however, the toyota axles are easily upgradable to run up to 40" tires, check out longfield super axles for front axles upgrades, and poly performance for upgraded rear axle shafts, even if you stick to the smaller tires these upgrades wouldn't be a bad idea for reliability truck will stay with 33" tires If you really want to spend some money look into swapping in the 3.4 v6 or the 2.7 inline 4 looked into a 4.3 Chevy vortec, big $$ and lots of time, would have to swap out the trans and lots of adapters. not worth the effort on this rig. the 22 re is fine for me. I think thone of the easiest things you could do would be to get more organized storage with some bed drawers or somthing similar, and possibly look into a 1/4 ton trailer. Since you already have a camper shell maybe you could find a good way to turn the bed into a sleeping quarters? I have a home built trailer, but I am looking into another better one. I already sleep in the back when camping. a twin size air mattress fits perfectly between the wheel wells in the back. You could also look into upgrading the roll bar into a full cage, either inside the cab, or exo for more body protection and interior room, you could also integrate a hoop over the radiator to keep that essential system intact in case of a roll over. I was seriously considering a EXO cage, but that's down the road after the mechanicals are 100% I would stick with what you have vehicle wise, toyotas are trusted in some of the most extreme terrain in the world yep, seems every third world shit hole has them or Nissan's for "technical's" |
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Mind me asking where in NV these pictures were taken?
Looks like a very nice area. As far as the truck, I always like to spend money on my truck and my guns so... I'd upgrade the things that someone highlighted in red. Creature comforts are always nice too though, check out an engel fridge for your truck. |
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Quoted:
Mind me asking where in NV these pictures were taken? Looks like a very nice area. As far as the truck, I always like to spend money on my truck and my guns so... I'd upgrade the things that someone highlighted in red. Creature comforts are always nice too though, check out an engel fridge for your truck. actually the pics are from a trail ride from Topaz lake NV to Bodie, CA. about 160 miles off road traveled both ways. went with Reno 4x4.com guys. |
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well, I'm more of a gun guy, while I am mechanically inclined I don't have a lot of time. welding I can not do. and as long as you tell me what is broke or needs to be done I can do it, but I don't have most of the technical tools. sockets and screw drivers i got, air tools, and widgets I don't. but your right, it shouldn't be 5k worth of stuff, I just prepare myself for the most and try to save where I can. Get a catalog from Snap On, and MAC tools. Read catalog; especially those sections that have the weird things that only fit your truck. Go to pawn shop spot weird wrench for less. Buy weird wrench. Do work yourself. Profit. This works if you get more repair $ done per hour than you make at your day job. Some of those fixes I'd do as a safety improvement. The bling gauges I'd hold off on till some racer wanted to pawn his. Hey I did a simple spreadsheet on the repairs and upgrades that I need to do or want to do for the Suburban. I ranked the importance from 1 = asap to 5 = probably never. Total for all with me doing all that labor that I can = $20k at full retail. Yep some of the upgrades may not happen, but I've already got $2500 worth done by G-d's grace and an hour of my time. |
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