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300 Blackout Master Thread (Page 52 of 77)
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Link Posted: 1/2/2017 4:37:01 PM EDT
[Last Edit: The_Hammer] [#1]
The bullet diameter after pc is .310. The neck wall thickness is .012. I'm using once fired factory 300blk brass and not converted brass.
Link Posted: 1/2/2017 6:53:16 PM EDT
[Last Edit: The_Hammer] [#2]
After a looking around for a while I think I'm going to order this http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/product_info.php?cPath=88&products_id=1512

I ended up ordering a .308 and .309 which should be here shortly. I'll post back with the results once I'm able to do some more testing.
Link Posted: 1/10/2017 3:18:22 PM EDT
[#3]
Anybody got any information on loads using Sierra 220 grain Pro-Hunters over Accurate 1680? I'll be running them in an 8.5" Noveske with a form 1 can. I've read through several pages of this thread but haven't found anything using this bullet yet.
Link Posted: 1/10/2017 6:32:46 PM EDT
[#4]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By PoopdeckPappy:
Anybody got any information on loads using Sierra 220 grain Pro-Hunters over Accurate 1680? I'll be running them in an 8.5" Noveske with a form 1 can. I've read through several pages of this thread but haven't found anything using this bullet yet.
View Quote

If you have a chronograph, it'll be easier. I'd start at 11.0 grains and proceed according to what the chronograph says. If you don't, listening for the crack can be tricky.
Link Posted: 1/11/2017 8:12:41 AM EDT
[#5]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By sheltot:

If you have a chronograph, it'll be easier. I'd start at 11.0 grains and proceed according to what the chronograph says. If you don't, listening for the crack can be tricky.
View Quote


OK, I can start at 11 grains and I do have a Chrono. Any idea what the COAL is going to be? Seems like they are going to be awful short and probably end up highly compressed. Any trouble with that? How do they feed in a PMag?
Link Posted: 1/11/2017 11:18:23 AM EDT
[Last Edit: M4tth3w] [#6]
Guys, pistol powder is a pain in my ass.

I've only been reloading about 2 years now, 300blk got me started, and I shifted to mostly reloading 308 stuff.  My biggest turn off to reloading 300blk is that H110 leaks everywhere out of my lee powder measurer and makes the action gritty, and jams up my trickler.

Any suggestions on how you guys meter/measure/handle your fine spherical powders?
Link Posted: 1/11/2017 12:52:39 PM EDT
[Last Edit: AS556] [#7]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By M4tth3w:
Guys, pistol powder is a pain in my ass.

I've only been reloading about 2 years now, 300blk got me started, and I shifted to mostly reloading 308 stuff.  My biggest turn off to reloading 300blk is that H110 leaks everywhere out of my lee powder measurer and makes the action gritty, and jams up my trickler.

Any suggestions on how you guys meter/measure/handle your fine spherical powders?
View Quote


That's what happens to me with True Blue I'm not using it again til I replace my Lee PPM with something better. I have to pull 200 9mm Gold Dots with TB because I don't trust it to throw accurate charges with those fine powders.

H110 doesn't do it on mine though,  maybe try Lil Gun it's not so fine
Link Posted: 1/11/2017 1:59:17 PM EDT
[Last Edit: dryflash3] [#8]
Link Posted: 1/11/2017 3:49:41 PM EDT
[Last Edit: M4tth3w] [#9]
Thanks guys, I'll look around for a higher quality powder measure.

ETA:  Just cleaned and set up an RCBS uniflow.  Holy cow!  It's so smooth.. it's so consistent.. thank you! @AS556 @dryflash3
Link Posted: 1/11/2017 4:29:19 PM EDT
[#10]
I believe I finally have everything sorted out and would like to update my earlier posts.


Originally Posted By The_Hammer:
So far I've shot about 200 of my sub sonic loads and I'm still working on dialing it in. I've noticed that the lower has a lot of unburnt powder residue building up and was wondering if that's to be expected with subs?
I'm using 10 grains of RL-7 and seating to just shy of the ogive method for ~1000fps.

ETA:

The red flakes in the lower are pieces of powder coat. So far I'm not seeing any build up of any kind in my barrel or suppressor.

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/299792/IMG-1910-118138.JPG
View Quote


Originally Posted By The_Hammer:
Well I'm pretty sure that I found my issue. My Lee sizing die is only expanding the neck to .302 . I pulled a few bullets from my loaded rounds and they only measure .305 . Looks like I've got about 100 rounds to pull down now.

What bushing die would y'all recommend?
View Quote


Originally Posted By The_Hammer:
After looking around for a while I think I'm going to order this http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/product_info.php?cPath=88&products_id=1512

I ended up ordering a .308 and .309 which should be here shortly. I'll post back with the results once I'm able to do some more testing.
View Quote



I received my NOE expander plugs today and I'm very happy with how well they worked. The .309 plug expands the cases to a little over .308 which is perfect for my .310 bullets. I loaded up 5 rounds using the ogive method which ends up being just shy of compressing 10 grains of RL-7.

Initial results look very promising. My cases are no longer covered in soot, I'm not getting a blowback of unburnt powder and my velocity is much more consistent. Average velocity of 5 shots is 970 FPS, up from 950. Extreme spread is 29, down from around 75.

The wind is currently gusting upwards of 35 mph so I may have to save any accuracy testing for another day.
Link Posted: 1/11/2017 7:10:48 PM EDT
[#11]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By PoopdeckPappy:


OK, I can start at 11 grains and I do have a Chrono. Any idea what the COAL is going to be? Seems like they are going to be awful short and probably end up highly compressed. Any trouble with that? How do they feed in a PMag?
View Quote

I have no problems using PMags.

Use the 1/4" ogive at the rib method developed by @dryflash3. I believe it's on page one of this thread.
FWIW, I received an email from Magpul today advertising a bespoke 300 BLK PMag.
Link Posted: 1/11/2017 7:38:31 PM EDT
[#12]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By sheltot:

I have no problems using PMags.

Use the 1/4" ogive at the rib method developed by @dryflash3. I believe it's on page one of this thread.
FWIW, I received an email from Magpul today advertising a bespoke 300 BLK PMag.
View Quote


Got it. Thanks.

The Magpul site says the 300 Blackout PMags are coming out spring 2017.
Link Posted: 1/11/2017 11:02:51 PM EDT
[#13]
Link Posted: 1/11/2017 11:54:40 PM EDT
[#14]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By dryflash3:
Keep in mind the .250 ogive method of setting OAL applies to 180 gr and lighter bullets.

It is my understanding, as I don't load subsonic, that 2.250 is used for for 220 gr Sierra's OAL and the front ribs of a P mag have to be shaved some.
View Quote


I am using m2 pmags and the .250 worked for hornady 208's and also palmetto armory pc lead.

It didnt work for 110 gr hornady though.  There was too little in the case for an has gun.  I had to seat shorter for that particular bullet though.
Link Posted: 1/12/2017 12:39:20 AM EDT
[#15]
Link Posted: 1/12/2017 12:44:54 AM EDT
[#16]
Link Posted: 1/12/2017 10:52:54 AM EDT
[#17]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By dryflash3:
I don't know what to say, every 110 gr bullet with the exception of the short RN 30 Carbine bullets have worked great for me with the .250 method.

I will be specific, Hornady 110 gr Spire point #3010, OAL 2.015. Got the OAL with the .250 method. Fed and fired fine for me.

Exceptions to everything I guess and some members have gotten the Carbine bullets to feed.
View Quote
I've run 30 carbine bullets in Blackout rounds.  I happened to have a pile of them on hand, so I tried them.  I believe that there's a couple of factors that affect how rounds with these bullets might feed in specific guns, including feed ramps, gas systems, and spring systems.

They weren't as accurate as the spire point bullets (Hornady's and Sierra's), but they worked and fed nicely.  I believe I had to seat them at an odd OAL, (data's not in front of me), but they were pretty short to keep the .250" diameter at the rib in the magazine.

I'm now saving my metric butt-load of 110 FMJs for a .30 Carbine loading project whenever I get some (a large amount of) time, and I've moved to "pointier" bullets for Blackout.
Link Posted: 1/12/2017 8:32:12 PM EDT
[#18]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By M4tth3w:
Thanks guys, I'll look around for a higher quality powder measure.

ETA:  Just cleaned and set up an RCBS uniflow.  Holy cow!  It's so smooth.. it's so consistent.. thank you! @AS556 @dryflash3
View Quote


Awesome maybe Ill check them out. My Lee gear is starting to piss me off.
Link Posted: 1/12/2017 11:07:40 PM EDT
[#19]
Link Posted: 1/12/2017 11:15:07 PM EDT
[#20]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By dryflash3:
Your welcome. 

How to tune a Uniflo my methods work for all metal powder measures.

The wax is the key.
View Quote


Thanks for posting that! I need to clean my Hornady PM and will use that wax on it.
Link Posted: 1/12/2017 11:37:15 PM EDT
[#21]
I have quite a bit of lead from shooting .22 lr into a bullet trap.

I also have some scrap lead and 25# of Linotype.

I've got a 1-7 twist barrel for a bolt action rifle chambered in .300 Blackout coming in soon (plus an AR in .300 Blackout).



What would be an acceptable hardness for cast .300 Blackout bullets that will all be subsonic. . . And powdercoated?

I've seen a BHN of 11-12 for subsonic, but wondering if the powdercoating might let me get away with a softer bullet.
Link Posted: 1/13/2017 12:34:18 AM EDT
[Last Edit: dryflash3] [#22]
Link Posted: 1/15/2017 8:41:25 PM EDT
[#23]
Pulled some factory Hornady 208 amax rounds.  Found 10.1 grains of this:

Attachment Attached File


Anyone recognize it?
Link Posted: 1/15/2017 10:31:22 PM EDT
[#24]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By davebl:
Pulled some factory Hornady 208 amax rounds.  Found 10.1 grains of this:

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/257366/fullsizeoutput-1550-126669.JPG

Anyone recognize it?
View Quote
It is a flattened spherical-type powder.  Like many, many powders available today.

It is both unwise and futile to put much effort into identifying a powder found in a commercially loaded round.  It is quite possible that the powder used is not available as a canister grade powder, despite "looking just like" some powder or other that IS available.
Link Posted: 1/15/2017 10:46:33 PM EDT
[#25]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By GHPorter:


It is both unwise and futile to put much effort into identifying a powder found in a commercially loaded round.  It is quite possible that the powder used is not available as a canister grade powder, despite "looking just like" some powder or other that IS available.
View Quote


Why do people always spout this if someone asks what kind of powder a factory cartridge has?  Maybe people are just curious.
Link Posted: 1/15/2017 11:55:24 PM EDT
[#26]
I tried all kinds of powder, different lengths and crimp/no crimp, I was never able to get them to stabilize @ 100 yards.

This was with an 8.5" 1/7 twist barrel
Link Posted: 1/15/2017 11:56:03 PM EDT
[#27]
Link Posted: 1/16/2017 11:43:24 AM EDT
[#28]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By dryflash3:
A handloader doesn't care what the factory used. Factory loads are a compromise to function in many different firearms.

We care about custom tuning a load to our firearm, not settle for what is commercially available.
View Quote

I don't agree with that at all

yes it's silly to attempt to visually identify pulled powder because it may not even be something we can get, but I reload as a cheaper way to get quality ammo

I have many firearms, and my friends even trust me enough to shoot my loads in theirs, so when I work up a load I want to make it as modular as possible

working up specific loads for specific guns will never be my thing
Link Posted: 1/16/2017 11:57:10 AM EDT
[Last Edit: makintrax73] [#29]
Tested some of the updated Hodgdon data for 300blk.  Updated data is on the Hodgdon website - didn't make it into the 2017 annual manual.  The new max load for 125 Nosler is 21.0 Lil'gun ---- way hotter than the old data.  Hopefully will have accuracy testing done, but it won't be for a while.

125SST Hornady, Lil'gun 18.0 to 20.1, LC brass (converted), Wolf SRM primer, 2.11" COL, light crimp LeeFCD

20.1 grains Lil'gun        1,556 ft.lbs  

Series, 7, Shots:, 3
Min,2357, Max,2383
Avg,2368 ,S-D, 13
ES , 26

link to thread with my full velocity test results and notes
Link Posted: 1/16/2017 1:46:06 PM EDT
[#30]
Link Posted: 1/16/2017 10:10:38 PM EDT
[#31]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By davebl:


Why do people always spout this if someone asks what kind of powder a factory cartridge has?  Maybe people are just curious.
View Quote
I said this because the next question is often "where can I get that stuff," and the person asking that question usually intends to take a (very stupid) shortcut and simply "copy the factory load".  That's not a smart move, even if the factory load was made with an available, canister grade powder.

The only reason to even vaguely want to know what specific powder is in a particular factory load is if there's something special about that load, such as low flash (or something negative like LOTS of flash), and then only if you want to find out how that "something special" was produced.

The way we keep this hobby safe (and avoid well meaning idiots trying to regulate us to death) is by staying VERY safe.  Handloaders that blow stuff up because they take shortcuts do not keep us safe.

The worst thing I've done in handloading is miss dropping powder in 3 out of 100 rounds of 9mm ammo, which gave me a squib, some powder burns, a damaged gun and a huge sense that I could have done a lot of damage that way.  I pulled down all of the remaining rounds and tried to see how I'd goofed.  I wound up learning a lot about HOW I was loading, which made me safer and more efficient.  

I never want to hear about someone who posts here having lost a finger, an eye, or a life by thinking that this hobby is inherently goof-proof.  Because it ain't.  So I "spout" this sort of thing, hoping I can help someone I've never met avoid hurting himself or others.  That's why...
Link Posted: 1/17/2017 1:59:43 PM EDT
[#32]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By MaxTheRabbit:

I don't agree with that at all

yes it's silly to attempt to visually identify pulled powder because it may not even be something we can get, but I reload as a cheaper way to get quality ammo

I have many firearms, and my friends even trust me enough to shoot my loads in theirs, so when I work up a load I want to make it as modular as possible

working up specific loads for specific guns will never be my thing
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By MaxTheRabbit:
Originally Posted By dryflash3:
A handloader doesn't care what the factory used. Factory loads are a compromise to function in many different firearms.

We care about custom tuning a load to our firearm, not settle for what is commercially available.

I don't agree with that at all

yes it's silly to attempt to visually identify pulled powder because it may not even be something we can get, but I reload as a cheaper way to get quality ammo

I have many firearms, and my friends even trust me enough to shoot my loads in theirs, so when I work up a load I want to make it as modular as possible

working up specific loads for specific guns will never be my thing



You know what?  You are both right.

Back in time, way before the internet; this was the difference between a "Handloader" and a "Reloader".

The Handloader was all about the most customnest loads possible; the last hundredth of an inch, the last 10 fps possible.
The Reloader was about making the best "factory" style loads possible. Work in anything, better than the factory.

Bubba just threw shit together.
Link Posted: 1/17/2017 2:16:07 PM EDT
[#33]
Link Posted: 1/19/2017 1:16:38 AM EDT
[#34]
I can't wait to try out the new CFE BLK.  Has anyone tried any of it, yet?
Link Posted: 1/19/2017 1:41:58 PM EDT
[#35]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By grimhollow:
I can't wait to try out the new CFE BLK.  Has anyone tried any of it, yet?
View Quote

There's a thread going about this powder over on the 300 blackout forum...I would link, but not sure that is acceptable here.

Overall impressions so far is a powder that is unpredictable with inconsistency in pressure when working up/down test loads.  So, gist is that it's not any better than what is already available...
Link Posted: 1/19/2017 2:45:24 PM EDT
[#36]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By M4tth3w:
Guys, pistol powder is a pain in my ass.

I've only been reloading about 2 years now, 300blk got me started, and I shifted to mostly reloading 308 stuff.  My biggest turn off to reloading 300blk is that H110 leaks everywhere out of my lee powder measurer and makes the action gritty, and jams up my trickler.

Any suggestions on how you guys meter/measure/handle your fine spherical powders?
View Quote


Run them through an RCBS Uniflow or Hornady LnL powder measure.
Link Posted: 1/19/2017 3:22:29 PM EDT
[#37]
Link Posted: 1/19/2017 3:24:00 PM EDT
[#38]
Link Posted: 1/19/2017 4:11:01 PM EDT
[#39]
thanks for the heads up dry flash.

It's a long thread, but I cut towards the last page because that's where this new powder started to have real test numbers..
CFE BLK stats
Link Posted: 1/19/2017 5:23:01 PM EDT
[#40]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By v6pwr:
thanks for the heads up dry flash.

It's a long thread, but I cut towards the last page because that's where this new powder started to have real test numbers..
CFE BLK stats
View Quote
Hey, thanks!  I'll take a look at it. All I have used so far is Winchester 296, with 125 gr Sierra Pro Hunters. Worked pretty well. 
Link Posted: 1/21/2017 8:55:55 PM EDT
[Last Edit: El-Skippo] [#41]
Well I've been playing with Bullet combos and loads in my 300blkout 90 grain fxt -- 230 lee cast projys l. I had did some more testing yesterday of different combos. The performers I will keep  to continue developing, in my Ruger American ranch with the 110 nosler varminters. For Fox, Hare, and Rabbits in both super and subsonic loads.

The supers I got a good node at 18.0 of adi 2205 ( h110) shot a .71 Moa centre to centre, Average fps was 2110.8 fps with a SD of 20.9fps  going to test again  with .2 grains either side.

For the subsonic was 4.5grn of Trailboss I got a .59 Moa centre to centre spread, with a average of 1000.2 fps with a SD of 14.2fps going to test .2grain either side in .1 intervals. Pretty stoked with the subs.



Now that this new lot of brass that I made ( not brought remanufactured brass) is fire formed in my chamber they will improve somewhat come the next lot of testing.
Link Posted: 1/25/2017 6:43:34 PM EDT
[#42]
Is this the right place to ask about 300 BLK loads using Rainier's 180 RNFP (Plated lead) bullets?

They're about $120/1000 plus shipping (about .12 cents each)

Seems like a great low-cost plinking round.

Rainier suggests max of 1500 fps...

Any ideas?
Link Posted: 1/25/2017 6:58:26 PM EDT
[#43]
Link Posted: 1/25/2017 7:09:56 PM EDT
[#44]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By LoneStoner:
Is this the right place to ask about 300 BLK loads using Rainier's 180 RNFP (Plated lead) bullets?

They're about $120/1000 plus shipping (about .12 cents each)

Seems like a great low-cost plinking round.

Rainier suggests max of 1500 fps...

Any ideas?
View Quote


Not factory loads.

Asking if anyone has experience and/or load data for the above.

OAL, powder/charge weight, functioning, feeding reliability, accuracy, those kinds of things.

Thanks.
Link Posted: 1/25/2017 10:24:20 PM EDT
[Last Edit: dryflash3] [#45]
Link Posted: 2/1/2017 8:08:12 PM EDT
[#46]
Hey guys,

I'm new to the .300 Blackout reloading game. I want to make sure that I am doing this .250 ogive rule correctly.

My case is trimmed to 1.360" and I am seating a Sierra 168gr MatchKing bullet.

My COAL is 2.078" - 2.080". Does this sound close to being right?
Link Posted: 2/1/2017 8:10:58 PM EDT
[#47]
OAL by itself is really meaningless without more data.  If it fits in the magazine, AND if the .250" diameter point on the bullet is in the right spot in the magazine (per dryflash3's pictures), then that OAL is "about right."  Sometimes the ".250 rule" only gets you in the close proximity to the final, functional OAL
Link Posted: 2/1/2017 11:24:15 PM EDT
[#48]
Link Posted: 2/4/2017 2:17:35 AM EDT
[#49]
Anyone converted Wolf gold to 300 brass? Wondering if the neck is too thick, I know Geco brass won't work as I've already tried. I have a ton of Wolf, just want to know if it's worth converting or not.
Link Posted: 2/4/2017 11:24:01 AM EDT
[#50]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Aby001:
Anyone converted Wolf gold to 300 brass? Wondering if the neck is too thick, I know Geco brass won't work as I've already tried. I have a ton of Wolf, just want to know if it's worth converting or not.
View Quote

Give a few a try and see what happens.

In my experience, most of the "neck too thick" issues people have with converting brass has more to do with how they do the forming than the cases themselves.  

I chop cases, then anneal them before forming.  I chop my cases a bit long - long enough that they need a bit of trimming after forming as well.  

I've gone through a lot of different headstamps that "the list" on 300 BlkTalk says are "no go" because of "thick necks" and not had a single issue.  I believe this is because the annealing makes the neck conform both to the sizing die and the expander ball, which should adjust the thickness of the brass in the process.  I KNOW that annealing reduces forming effort.
Page / 77
300 Blackout Master Thread (Page 52 of 77)
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