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Posted: 11/13/2013 1:28:33 PM EDT
[#1]
Copy/Paste from another site I visit:
After many hundreds of hours I noticed my #66619 2 stroke generator was making an intermittent knocking noise. I pulled off the jug (5 minute job) and found the wrist pin bearing, a caged roller bearing, was loose. The rod and wrist pin were in good shape. HF doesn't sell the new bearing 10X14X14mm and I was unable to find a new one of the same size on line. Settled for a 10X14X15 which fit fine being just 1mm longer. A quick and easy repair and the little generator is purring like new. Thought the information might be relevant in this thread - if not now, eventually. |
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Posted: 11/24/2013 12:32:57 PM EDT
[Last Edit: fishstix]
[#2]
Looking for a space heater that I can plug into this. Any recommendations? Never bought one before and it seems like most have 2 levels, like 750 watts and 1500 watts, which I'm assuming this genny would not power. Also looking for recommendations a a good work light as well.
Thanks Eta The heater would be for 2 car garage or emergency heat in a bedroom or kitchen type area. |
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Posted: 11/24/2013 1:14:56 PM EDT
[#3]
it WILL run my deloghi oil radiator on the 750 setting. not on high <1500>
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Posted: 11/24/2013 1:44:39 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By The_Beer_Slayer:
it WILL run my deloghi oil radiator on the 750 setting. not on high <1500> The more I think about it, that might not be bad at 750. Leaves enough for a small light or two, etc. I heard good things about the oil filled heaters,just a little big. |
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Posted: 11/24/2013 2:48:22 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By fishstix:
The more I think about it, that might not be bad at 750. Leaves enough for a small light or two, etc. I heard good things about the oil filled heaters,just a little big. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By fishstix:
Originally Posted By The_Beer_Slayer:
it WILL run my deloghi oil radiator on the 750 setting. not on high <1500> The more I think about it, that might not be bad at 750. Leaves enough for a small light or two, etc. I heard good things about the oil filled heaters,just a little big. Just remember, the BTU heat output at 750 watts, is the same, oil filled -or not. There's no magic with 'oil filled' but it makes a GREAT marketing ploy for the Sheeple. |
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Posted: 11/24/2013 6:27:14 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By EXPY37:
Just remember, the BTU heat output at 750 watts, is the same, oil filled -or not. There's no magic with 'oil filled' but it makes a GREAT marketing ploy for the Sheeple. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By EXPY37:
Originally Posted By fishstix:
Originally Posted By The_Beer_Slayer:
it WILL run my deloghi oil radiator on the 750 setting. not on high <1500> The more I think about it, that might not be bad at 750. Leaves enough for a small light or two, etc. I heard good things about the oil filled heaters,just a little big. Just remember, the BTU heat output at 750 watts, is the same, oil filled -or not. There's no magic with 'oil filled' but it makes a GREAT marketing ploy for the Sheeple. So theres no difference in the amount of heat between oil,ceramic, etc if the watts are the same? I'd like to buy a cheap, simple one vs an expensive one of the heat output is the same. |
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Posted: 11/24/2013 11:09:36 PM EDT
[Last Edit: EXPY37]
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By fishstix:
So theres no difference in the amount of heat between oil,ceramic, etc if the watts are the same? I'd like to buy a cheap, simple one vs an expensive one of the heat output is the same. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By fishstix:
Originally Posted By EXPY37:
Originally Posted By fishstix:
Originally Posted By The_Beer_Slayer:
it WILL run my deloghi oil radiator on the 750 setting. not on high <1500> The more I think about it, that might not be bad at 750. Leaves enough for a small light or two, etc. I heard good things about the oil filled heaters,just a little big. Just remember, the BTU heat output at 750 watts, is the same, oil filled -or not. There's no magic with 'oil filled' but it makes a GREAT marketing ploy for the Sheeple. So theres no difference in the amount of heat between oil,ceramic, etc if the watts are the same? I'd like to buy a cheap, simple one vs an expensive one of the heat output is the same. Why would you expect anything different? 
Marketing doesn't repeal the laws of phsicks. But ---some folks will argue that the oil filled heaters make them feel warmer.  Maybe so...
Look into the radiant heaters that are cheap and look like a small parabolic shiny dish. Been around for ages... They can direct heat where you need it. It all depends on your application, as do most things in life. |
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Posted: 11/24/2013 11:25:10 PM EDT
[#8]
Oh, burning gas to run an engine to turn an alternator to produce electricity to run a heater...
Is about the most inefficient way to warm a room I can think of. 
Why not consider a small 8000 BTU kerosene heater that sips fuel? Unless the first method has to be used for 'special' reasons. |
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FL, USA
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Posted: 11/25/2013 8:20:48 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Blackoperations]
[#9]
start with the heater on low, turn knob slowly.....when the genny spits up white smoke, turn the knob back down a bit......
Worse case scenario is under voltage to the heater, which wont matter to the heater at all. |
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FL, USA
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Posted: 11/25/2013 8:23:16 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Blackoperations]
[#10]
$88.88 Black Friday Sale:
Here is the Ad preview: http://images.harborfreight.com/hftweb/home-page2013/images112813a/thanksgiving-day-preview.pdf 29th, 30th, Dec 1st., Ad does not state if in store only or website....they state retail is $179.99 "save $91",lol, these guys are hilarious!  ; considering this thread is based on a $79 generator, once purchased new for $64, during another one of their "Sales"  .
Currently selling online for $129.99, http://www.harborfreight.com/900-peak800-running-watts-2-hp-63cc-gas-generator-60338.html |
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IL, USA
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Posted: 11/28/2013 8:26:40 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Blackoperations:
$88.88 Black Friday Sale: Here is the Ad preview: http://images.harborfreight.com/hftweb/home-page2013/images112813a/thanksgiving-day-preview.pdf 29th, 30th, Dec 1st., Ad does not state if in store only or website....they state retail is $179.99 "save $91",lol, these guys are hilarious! ; considering this thread is based on a $79 generator, once purchased new for $64, during another one of their "Sales" .
Currently selling online for $129.99, http://www.harborfreight.com/900-peak800-running-watts-2-hp-63cc-gas-generator-60338.html Can purchase today via their website for the same Black Friday price - $88.88 plus shipping, which is $6.99. Not a bad deal! |
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Posted: 11/29/2013 7:21:26 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By EXPY37:
Just remember, the BTU heat output at 750 watts, is the same, oil filled -or not. There's no magic with 'oil filled' but it makes a GREAT marketing ploy for the Sheeple. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By EXPY37:
Originally Posted By fishstix:
Originally Posted By The_Beer_Slayer:
it WILL run my deloghi oil radiator on the 750 setting. not on high <1500> The more I think about it, that might not be bad at 750. Leaves enough for a small light or two, etc. I heard good things about the oil filled heaters,just a little big. Just remember, the BTU heat output at 750 watts, is the same, oil filled -or not. There's no magic with 'oil filled' but it makes a GREAT marketing ploy for the Sheeple. true but actual power usage is less due to the oil retaining heat and the element having to cycle less for the same duration of heat output. i have been using those heaters for years and they do produce less power usage than ceramic and other types. my power bill shows a definite difference. |
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Posted: 11/29/2013 7:32:31 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By EXPY37:
Oh, burning gas to run an engine to turn an alternator to produce electricity to run a heater... Is about the most inefficient way to warm a room I can think of.
Why not consider a small 8000 BTU kerosene heater that sips fuel? Unless the first method has to be used for 'special' reasons. and burning wood would be an even better choice. some locations have issues with propane/kerosene storage and use <i have seen apartment complexes like this> which pretty much relegates heater usage to electric. personally wouldn't live in a location like that but they are out there. |
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Posted: 11/29/2013 12:53:33 PM EDT
[Last Edit: EXPY37]
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By The_Beer_Slayer:
and burning wood would be an even better choice. some locations have issues with propane/kerosene storage and use <i have seen apartment complexes like this> which pretty much relegates heater usage to electric. personally wouldn't live in a location like that but they are out there. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By The_Beer_Slayer:
Originally Posted By EXPY37:
Oh, burning gas to run an engine to turn an alternator to produce electricity to run a heater... Is about the most inefficient way to warm a room I can think of.
Why not consider a small 8000 BTU kerosene heater that sips fuel? Unless the first method has to be used for 'special' reasons. and burning wood would be an even better choice. some locations have issues with propane/kerosene storage and use <i have seen apartment complexes like this> which pretty much relegates heater usage to electric. personally wouldn't live in a location like that but they are out there.
We've got a condo where it gets cold and this thread got me thinking. I have no idea what the rules are re burning kero and the smell that might tip off the neighbors and HOA. [Plus IDC]
However, a screaming H-F genny on the balcony running a space heater inside, is sure to be a no-no.
It occurred to me that having a couple Aladdin or other kero lamps burning inside while burning a small kero heater... And the Snoops coming around to see watcha doin because of the odor, you could invite them in and say how do you like the nice kero lamp? Check the draft if you have a condo or townhouse, whatever, crack open the front door and see which way the wind blows. Also, there are much smaller kero heaters than we usually talk about and they can be found on ebay. Aladdin makes some nice very small ones, perfect for a condo. We have a couple small Aladdin's and they have little odor and are great, so we'll be sure to have one available for the condo and some kero lamps. Here's a tiny one... 
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Posted: 11/29/2013 5:14:30 PM EDT
[#15]
Doesn't burning kerosene produce Carbon Monoxide?
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Posted: 11/29/2013 9:23:08 PM EDT
[Last Edit: EXPY37]
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By backbencher:
Doesn't burning kerosene produce Carbon Monoxide? Sure does, to varying degrees depending on the efficiency of the combustion system. From a practical standpoint, probably less than natural gas or even propane. |
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PA, USA
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Posted: 12/9/2013 7:38:20 PM EDT
[#17]
Got mine out and gave it a stretch last weekend in prep for the impending snow.
Uneventful, of course Anyone pick one up on the BF sale? |
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Posted: 12/11/2013 9:42:13 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By EXPY37:
Sure does, to varying degrees depending on the efficiency of the combustion system. From a practical standpoint, probably less than natural gas or even propane. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By EXPY37:
Originally Posted By backbencher:
Doesn't burning kerosene produce Carbon Monoxide? Sure does, to varying degrees depending on the efficiency of the combustion system. From a practical standpoint, probably less than natural gas or even propane. Not exactly. Because natural gas and propane are more heavily hydrogenated, they tend to produce more water as a proportion of combustion gasses. In addition their combustion tends to be better controlled - when was the last time you saw smoke out of a gas appliance? While there are probably more cases of CO poisoning from faulty gas appliances, proportionately I believe they are quite low compared to portable liquid fueled appliances. But the biggest factor in CO poisonings is stupidity/ignorance. If a combustion appliance isn't running right, don't run it. That being said, ALL combustion produces Carbon Monoxide - period. Unless you have electric heat, you should have a CO detector. |
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IA, USA
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Posted: 12/12/2013 8:41:25 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ssm1602:
Anyone that wants to read the blog that I got my information from on what upgrades or changes the should be done to these, this is it. http://utahlepidoptera.com/2011/12/23/hello-world/ I am going to be trying my generator this afternoon with a full tank of fuel. I have gone through it short of pulling the jug and head, off the crankcase. I made new gaskets for the "intake manifold" and either side of the carb to make sure I didn't haven any vacuum leaks. I even went through the carb and made sure it was extremely clean. So, the moment of truth will be this afternoon. Well, no success after this attempt. So I tore it down and pulled the head and the jug. Even split the crankcase. What it looks like my problem possibly is, is a leaking head gasket. The gasket itself looks good, so I am going to clean everything up and clean the rings as well. Put the hole thing back together and make sure the head gasket seals up good. The only question I have is what kind of torque should I set the head bolts too. I was thinking about 20 ft/lb based on my research. Any suggestions would be appreciated. |
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FL, USA
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Posted: 12/13/2013 6:56:40 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ssm1602:
Well, no success after this attempt. So I tore it down and pulled the head and the jug. Even split the crankcase. What it looks like my problem possibly is, is a leaking head gasket. The gasket itself looks good, so I am going to clean everything up and clean the rings as well. Put the hole thing back together and make sure the head gasket seals up good. The only question I have is what kind of torque should I set the head bolts too. I was thinking about 20 ft/lb based on my research. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ssm1602:
Originally Posted By ssm1602:
Anyone that wants to read the blog that I got my information from on what upgrades or changes the should be done to these, this is it. http://utahlepidoptera.com/2011/12/23/hello-world/ I am going to be trying my generator this afternoon with a full tank of fuel. I have gone through it short of pulling the jug and head, off the crankcase. I made new gaskets for the "intake manifold" and either side of the carb to make sure I didn't haven any vacuum leaks. I even went through the carb and made sure it was extremely clean. So, the moment of truth will be this afternoon. Well, no success after this attempt. So I tore it down and pulled the head and the jug. Even split the crankcase. What it looks like my problem possibly is, is a leaking head gasket. The gasket itself looks good, so I am going to clean everything up and clean the rings as well. Put the hole thing back together and make sure the head gasket seals up good. The only question I have is what kind of torque should I set the head bolts too. I was thinking about 20 ft/lb based on my research. Any suggestions would be appreciated. return it for a new one, that's my suggestion. |
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Posted: 12/13/2013 11:02:00 PM EDT
[Last Edit: EXPY37]
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ssm1602:
Well, no success after this attempt. So I tore it down and pulled the head and the jug. Even split the crankcase. What it looks like my problem possibly is, is a leaking head gasket. The gasket itself looks good, so I am going to clean everything up and clean the rings as well. Put the hole thing back together and make sure the head gasket seals up good. The only question I have is what kind of torque should I set the head bolts too. I was thinking about 20 ft/lb based on my research. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ssm1602:
Originally Posted By ssm1602:
Anyone that wants to read the blog that I got my information from on what upgrades or changes the should be done to these, this is it. http://utahlepidoptera.com/2011/12/23/hello-world/ I am going to be trying my generator this afternoon with a full tank of fuel. I have gone through it short of pulling the jug and head, off the crankcase. I made new gaskets for the "intake manifold" and either side of the carb to make sure I didn't haven any vacuum leaks. I even went through the carb and made sure it was extremely clean. So, the moment of truth will be this afternoon. Well, no success after this attempt. So I tore it down and pulled the head and the jug. Even split the crankcase. What it looks like my problem possibly is, is a leaking head gasket. The gasket itself looks good, so I am going to clean everything up and clean the rings as well. Put the hole thing back together and make sure the head gasket seals up good. The only question I have is what kind of torque should I set the head bolts too. I was thinking about 20 ft/lb based on my research. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I'd say go with 20 and see if it now runs. Good job and stay with it, you are learning a LOT -more!
As well as edjumacating all of us... |
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FL, USA
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Posted: 12/14/2013 1:16:34 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 1LTfptg: I wouldn't hook up a $700 computer to a $79 generator if i were you. not if you want to keep your computers hard drive. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 1LTfptg: Originally Posted By Blackoperations: Originally Posted By easy610: http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y130/easy610/thisthread.jpg Awaiting any additional insight....thanks for the post. I'm a generator idiot. What could you run with this, household items as example....? not much at the same time, however, a chest freezer/fridge (depending on size). Lights, TV computers, fans...the list goes on. I wouldn't hook up a $700 computer to a $79 generator if i were you. not if you want to keep your computers hard drive. All you have to do is use a GFI/surge type plug in between the electronics and the generator. It's not that hard to figure out and they are cheap. |
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Posted: 12/15/2013 9:51:01 AM EDT
[#23]
Or use a laptop. Even if the generator goes grossly over voltage, the 110-220 power supply will automagically adapt. If there are intermittent power drops, the laptop will switch to its battery.
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Posted: 12/15/2013 10:11:49 AM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By floridajpr:
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By floridajpr:
Originally Posted By 1LTfptg:
Originally Posted By Blackoperations:
Originally Posted By easy610:
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y130/easy610/thisthread.jpg Awaiting any additional insight....thanks for the post. I'm a generator idiot. What could you run with this, household items as example....? not much at the same time, however, a chest freezer/fridge (depending on size). Lights, TV computers, fans...the list goes on. I wouldn't hook up a $700 computer to a $79 generator if i were you. not if you want to keep your computers hard drive. All you have to do is use a GFI/surge type plug in between the electronics and the generator. It's not that hard to figure out and they are cheap. ummm no. most PC power supplies will handle over voltages without an issue unless they are MASSIVE spikes.generators don't normally have those issues. they are regulated on the AC side and the DC side on quality power supplies. the GFI protectors are designed to fault with a short NOT a surge. the biggest issue with pc's is low voltage. in general it will cause write issues to the drives but generally won't harm anything physically. <usually>. modern quality power supplies can handle low voltage conditions in short spans but not long term. power surge protectors are pretty much useless in regards to protecting electronics from generator power. if you want protection you need to be on an actual power conditioner battery system <not a ups>, or as said above a laptop. |
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Posted: 12/15/2013 3:46:34 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By backbencher:
Or use a laptop. Even if the generator goes grossly over voltage, the 110-220 power supply will automagically adapt. If there are intermittent power drops, the laptop will switch to its battery. Most modern laptop power supplies are designed to operate on 100 to 240 volts AC 50-60 Hz. The 100 volt spec allows them to be used in Japan, which uses 100 volts as their standard AC mains voltage. Basically, laptop manufacturers use the same power supply in different countries, substituting a different AC cordset to match the wall outlet used in any particular region. In reality, the power supply is designed to operate at voltages somewhat outside the ones on the nameplate, in order to accommodate the normal variation in AC mains voltages encountered in the real world. Typically, they'll tolerate voltages 10 percent above or below the nameplate ratings - i.e., approx. 90 to 264 volts. If your generator isn't capable of staying within 90-264 volts, it's probably not producing any voltage anyway...
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IA, USA
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Posted: 12/18/2013 11:11:34 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By EXPY37:
I'd say go with 20 and see if it now runs. Good job and stay with it, you are learning a LOT -more!
As well as edjumacating all of us... Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By EXPY37:
Originally Posted By ssm1602:
Originally Posted By ssm1602:
Anyone that wants to read the blog that I got my information from on what upgrades or changes the should be done to these, this is it. http://utahlepidoptera.com/2011/12/23/hello-world/ I am going to be trying my generator this afternoon with a full tank of fuel. I have gone through it short of pulling the jug and head, off the crankcase. I made new gaskets for the "intake manifold" and either side of the carb to make sure I didn't haven any vacuum leaks. I even went through the carb and made sure it was extremely clean. So, the moment of truth will be this afternoon. Well, no success after this attempt. So I tore it down and pulled the head and the jug. Even split the crankcase. What it looks like my problem possibly is, is a leaking head gasket. The gasket itself looks good, so I am going to clean everything up and clean the rings as well. Put the hole thing back together and make sure the head gasket seals up good. The only question I have is what kind of torque should I set the head bolts too. I was thinking about 20 ft/lb based on my research. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I'd say go with 20 and see if it now runs. Good job and stay with it, you are learning a LOT -more!
As well as edjumacating all of us... Well, I now know that it will be about 10lbs max torque on head bolts. Got them to 10 and was working on getting them to 15 and one of the bolts snapped. So, I would say a max of 10 ft/lbs, but more like 8 ft/lbs of torque. At least I am not out any money, as this machine was given to me because it didn't run. I will keep you guys updated on my progress with it. |
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FL, USA
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Posted: 1/20/2014 5:40:10 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Blackoperations]
[#27]
Champion 1400watt/1800watt Generator next to Harbor Freight 800watt Generator:
http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/champion-power-equipmenttrade%3B-1400w-1800w-portable-generator-carb-compliant 
http://www.harborfreight.com/800-rated-watts-900-max-watts-portable-generator-66619.html Duplicate of a post I made here: http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_17/671447_.html&page=1&anc=11482202#i11482202 The reason I bother to duplicate my posting is because, this thing is tiny!...by comparison, a 1400watt generator is arguably "the next size up" one would logically choose, and this thing is very compact when compared to a 80cc, 1400watt "4 stroke" generator. Harbor Freight 800w Generator vs. Champion 1400w Generator: 63cc engine (2 stroke) vs.80cc engine (4 stroke)...17cc bigger engine 39.10 pounds vs. 59.52 pounds....20 pounds heavier Advertised noise specs are 69 dB at 21ft (3/4 Load) vs. 65 dB at 25ft Advertised run time @ 50% (400 watt) load (1 gallon tank)= 5 hours vs. run time @ 50% (700watt) Load (1.45 gallon tank)= 10 hours More comparisons to come by "request" on the comparison between these two generators....please consider my laziness and how many beer's, the test will take before submitting any request(s) thank you.
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Posted: 1/20/2014 6:16:13 PM EDT
[#28]
Thanks for the comparison of the two. That is good info to know.
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Posted: 1/20/2014 10:58:57 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Blackoperations:
20 pounds heavier At least 5 pounds of that is safety stickers... |
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PA, USA
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Posted: 2/22/2014 2:39:01 AM EDT
[Last Edit: decypher]
[#30]
Anyone get to stretch the legs of this box during the recent power outages?
Update... I put about another hour on mine today preparation for our coming winter weather. |
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Posted: 3/7/2014 10:42:12 AM EDT
[Last Edit: hanau]
[#31]
Power went out about 5:30 am started generator up around 7am. Been running generator almost 3 hrs now.
TV, dish receiver and fan on propane heater. Voltage on kilowatt meter is only 92-93 volts but everything is running fine. |
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Posted: 3/7/2014 10:45:54 AM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By decypher:
Anyone get to stretch the legs of this box during the recent power outages? Update... I put about another hour on mine today preparation for our coming winter weather. last year my first one ran about 6hrs a day for 2 weeks. powered battery chargers and was able to run a freezer on it. no issues at all. |
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Posted: 3/8/2014 3:11:39 PM EDT
[#33]
Anyone know how to adjust the out put voltage, pulling about 200 watts and voltage drops to 92-93 volts.
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PA, USA
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Posted: 3/8/2014 7:40:36 PM EDT
[#34]
Pulled this from the google
To adjust voltage, put a couple of incandescent lights on it for a load and check with your VOM. The philips screw that is a couple inches above the pull chord will adjust engine RPM and with it, voltage and cycles. So I dropped mine to 120v, but I will have to check it again after the break in period. I have a cheap VOM, so I can't check the cycles. |
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PA, USA
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Posted: 3/8/2014 7:42:17 PM EDT
[Last Edit: decypher]
[#35]
Btw... There is a parking lot sale going on. Gen is sub 90.00
http://t.harborfreight.com/900-peak800-running-watts-2-hp-63cc-gas-generator-60338.html#.Uxu4wdq9KSM |
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Posted: 3/8/2014 8:44:02 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By hanau:
Anyone know how to adjust the out put voltage, pulling about 200 watts and voltage drops to 92-93 volts. Measured right at the generator outlet, or at the end of an extension cord? An undersized extension cord can reduce the voltage measured at the appliance by 30 volts, easily. |
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Posted: 3/8/2014 8:46:27 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By decypher: Pulled this from the google To adjust voltage, put a couple of incandescent lights on it for a load and check with your VOM. The philips screw that is a couple inches above the pull chord will adjust engine RPM and with it, voltage and cycles. So I dropped mine to 120v, but I will have to check it again after the break in period. I have a cheap VOM, so I can't check the cycles. After adjusting it my gas cap started leaking. Buddy had some gasket material added that leak stopped. |
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Posted: 3/8/2014 8:52:51 PM EDT
[Last Edit: hanau]
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Skibane: Measured right at the generator outlet, or at the end of an extension cord? An undersized extension cord can reduce the voltage measured at the appliance by 30 volts, easily. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Skibane: Originally Posted By hanau: Anyone know how to adjust the out put voltage, pulling about 200 watts and voltage drops to 92-93 volts. Measured right at the generator outlet, or at the end of an extension cord? An undersized extension cord can reduce the voltage measured at the appliance by 30 volts, easily. adjusted screw showing 114 v, Same thru extension cord at kill a watt meter will have to recheck everything in morning. Lights are not flickering now so guess it pretty close. |
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Posted: 3/8/2014 10:38:12 PM EDT
[#39]
$88 + tax for the red one this weekend. Looks like HF is having their sidewalk sale.
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TX, USA
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Posted: 3/10/2014 12:26:29 PM EDT
[#40]
good to see others are still getting good service out of their original blue HF gennys. I haven't run mine lately other than a 30min test run but still running after many, many hours of use over the last 2 or 3 years. I will level with folks that since I picked up one of those little champion 1400 watt 4-stroke gennys... I don't really think I will be using the HF one anymore. I like the convenience of the 4 stroke and although it is noticeably heavier... it is still very easy to carry around. The added wattage of the champion also makes it nice. My blue HF genny can run my night fishing lights at 2x250 watt mode but bogs down when I run them at 2x500watt. The champion can run them at full 2x500watt with power to spare.
I like my blue HF genny and it has run way better than I expected but for those that don't have a genny yet... I'd say take a hard look at the little 1400/1800 champion genny. |
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OK, USA
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Posted: 3/10/2014 12:47:36 PM EDT
[#41]
Can I run 2 of these lil monsters paralell. Once running can I connnect them together to run paralell on the same circuit. Granted they both are running the same speed so the frequency and phase is the same and one doesnt become a parasite on the other.
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Posted: 3/10/2014 12:50:23 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By orion3814:
Can I run 2 of these lil monsters paralell. Once running can I connnect them together to run paralell on the same circuit. Granted they both are running the same speed so the frequency and phase is the same and one doesnt become a parasite on the other. Pretty sure that's a trick that only inverters can pull off. Smarter people than me will be along shortly to tell you why. |
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Posted: 3/10/2014 1:06:03 PM EDT
[#43]
No, they can't run in parallel unless you do quite a bit of electrical engineering on them. AC is a constantly changing voltage - think of a wave going up and down ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
For the two generators to run in parallel, the two waves have to be precisely synchronized, so that both waves are both on the peak and trough together. |
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Posted: 3/10/2014 1:57:52 PM EDT
[Last Edit: EXPY37]
[#44]
I wonder if the two gennys, if synchronized [connect neutrals, place a lamp between the hot legs and watch the 'beat' and when slowly changing or unchanged, throw a switch to connect hots]
That the gennys would 'lock' them selves together -at least over some range of load. I was looking at two gennys not too long ago that run off water, and develop a couple megawatts, that have been in service going on 90 years. I think they might be synchronized this way. |
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Posted: 3/10/2014 2:39:41 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By EXPY37:
I wonder if the two gennys, if synchronized [connect neutrals, place a lamp between the hot legs and watch the 'beat' and when slowly changing or unchanged, throw a switch to connect hots] That the gennys would 'lock' them selves together -at least over some range of load. I was looking at two gennys not too long ago that run off water, and develop a couple megawatts, that have been in service going on 90 years. I think they might be synchronized this way. just make sure you film this when you try it.
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Posted: 3/10/2014 5:50:21 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By The_Beer_Slayer: just make sure you film this when you try it. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By The_Beer_Slayer: Originally Posted By EXPY37: I wonder if the two gennys, if synchronized [connect neutrals, place a lamp between the hot legs and watch the 'beat' and when slowly changing or unchanged, throw a switch to connect hots] That the gennys would 'lock' them selves together -at least over some range of load. I was looking at two gennys not too long ago that run off water, and develop a couple megawatts, that have been in service going on 90 years. I think they might be synchronized this way. just make sure you film this when you try it. |
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Posted: 3/10/2014 10:42:34 PM EDT
[Last Edit: backbencher]
[#47]
This should be @ least as exciting as the 70% rubbing alcohol, charcoal lighting fluid, fingernail polish remover & mothball thread.
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OK, USA
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Posted: 3/11/2014 12:18:42 AM EDT
[Last Edit: orion3814]
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By EXPY37:
I wonder if the two gennys, if synchronized [connect neutrals, place a lamp between the hot legs and watch the 'beat' and when slowly changing or unchanged, throw a switch to connect hots] That the gennys would 'lock' them selves together -at least over some range of load. I was looking at two gennys not too long ago that run off water, and develop a couple megawatts, that have been in service going on 90 years. I think they might be synchronized this way. Thats exactly what im talking about. Years ago at john c lincoln hospital we put 2 new massive gennys in we were able to parallell them in a similar manner with a paralleling scope and switchgear. We had to wait till the sine waves matched then throw the combination gear and they would basically be 1 circuit. The first time they done that they had a phase 120 out and it popped the massive fuses as soon as they were combined. Nothing like hearing 2 massive 4300hp quad turbo v20 cats instantly load up and almost stall.. |
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Posted: 3/11/2014 1:18:59 AM EDT
[Last Edit: EXPY37]
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By orion3814:
Thats exactly what im talking about. Years ago at john c lincoln hospital we put 2 new massive gennys in we were able to parallell them in a similar manner with a paralleling scope and switchgear. We had to wait till the sine waves matched then throw the combination gear and they would basically be 1 circuit. The first time they done that they had a phase 120 out and it popped the massive fuses as soon as they were combined. Nothing like hearing 2 massive 4300hp quad turbo v20 cats instantly load up and almost stall.. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By orion3814:
Originally Posted By EXPY37:
I wonder if the two gennys, if synchronized [connect neutrals, place a lamp between the hot legs and watch the 'beat' and when slowly changing or unchanged, throw a switch to connect hots] That the gennys would 'lock' them selves together -at least over some range of load. I was looking at two gennys not too long ago that run off water, and develop a couple megawatts, that have been in service going on 90 years. I think they might be synchronized this way. Thats exactly what im talking about. Years ago at john c lincoln hospital we put 2 new massive gennys in we were able to parallell them in a similar manner with a paralleling scope and switchgear. We had to wait till the sine waves matched then throw the combination gear and they would basically be 1 circuit. The first time they done that they had a phase 120 out and it popped the massive fuses as soon as they were combined. Nothing like hearing 2 massive 4300hp quad turbo v20 cats instantly load up and almost stall.. So, you had 2 of the 3 phases [wires] reversed and they didn't know it and it didn't show up on the scope! Since the scope was looking at only one of the phases. You can do the same thing with a light bulb but it's not as sensitive to detecting the exact synchronization. Scopes are dirt cheap now anyhow. I imagine it could be done with 2 well governed matched gennys with occasional breaker tripping... ETA, or more likely the scope was connected to two different phases.
SO the 'sync' was at PRECISELY the wrong time. 
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OK, USA
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Posted: 3/11/2014 9:57:00 PM EDT
[#50]
Yup 2 of the phases were reversed lol. The scope was only matchin phases of one of the 3 poles on each genny lol. The cables in the switchgears were cut to length and were very hard to bend so they pulled the cover off the head of genset 2 and jockied the cables around in there since they were a high strand count they were easier to manipulate. There were 6 0000 guage cables on each pole in the head. Took bout an hour the fix. Then pulled the covers over the couplings between the engine and the head to check the couplers luckily they werent cracked hahahh. I miss those days sometimes.
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