User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
FL, USA
|
Posted: 8/28/2013 6:25:28 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GLHX2112:
Not sure if it mattered or not, but, I stored my little genny inside my home (not in my basement) for the past year. I have an un-heated detached garage that gets chilly/damp/nasty during winter months, so I figured better safe than sorry. 
both of my genny;s are stored in a shed outside that barely keeps the rain out, here in humid Florida....been in there over two years, still work fine....not even starting to show surface rust yet! |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/28/2013 6:45:36 PM EDT
[#2]
Need to fire my gen up.
|
|
|
|
FL, USA
|
Posted: 8/28/2013 6:49:38 PM EDT
[#3]
So it was 93f degrees today, hot and humid. Makes me appreciate the A/C, as such....here is a re-post of the Harbor Freight Generator running the a/c
Page 14 on this thread: http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_18/632490_Review_of_the__79_Harbor_Freight_Generator__with_pics__56k_noway____update_page_14.html&page=14 
|
|
|
FL, USA
|
Posted: 9/20/2013 9:47:59 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Blackoperations]
[#4]
random bump, for hurricane season?
Shamelessly keeping the thread alive. 
Watcha got? lets hear about this little bugger doing some work!, or about how you abuse it (regularly)........which brave soul will be the first to admit they love this genny more than you love your Honda eu2000i? 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/20/2013 10:48:42 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Skibane]
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Blackoperations:
which brave soul will be the first to admit they love this genny more than you love your Honda eu2000i? Funny you should mention that: Just the other day, I was reading a thread over on RV.net about the Champion 2000i inverter model - and one of the guys mentioned that his "800 watt" HF generator would start loads that his "2000 watt" Champion wouldn't. Of course, it was probably only producing around 80 volts while it was struggling - but at least it wouldn't give up!
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/21/2013 1:13:35 AM EDT
[#6]
That's the difference between gennys that have' sophisticated' load limit protection and those that don't.
|
|
|
|
PA, USA
|
Posted: 9/21/2013 6:46:37 AM EDT
[#7]
I'll throw my .02.
I picked up one of these the other day and went about the process of breaking it in yesterday. Unboxed it-all items present. Replaced the spark put with an autolite64 . Perfect fit. While the plug was out, I shot a little fogging oil in the chamber and pulled the starter cord to cycle it through. Hope is to lubricate during initial startup. Replaced plug Filled her with 50:1 fresh high test/synthetic mix Took a couple of pulls to get her started... Ran 10mins with no load. Put the 500watt halogen on her and she evened right out. 5 hours or so. Voltage and HZ were a little carried in the beginning, but over the course of the 5 hours, it really evened out Ran her out, cooled it down, pulled the plug again and gave another dose of fogging oil. Its not honda quiet, but I was actually very impressed at how quiet it was. 10ft away, it was not annoying at all... No louder than my whacker. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/27/2013 10:43:19 PM EDT
[#8]
This reminds me that I should pull the generators out and run them to prepare for our annual October power outage.
|
|
|
|
FL, USA
|
Posted: 9/27/2013 10:59:08 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Blackoperations]
[#9]
Question I cant seem to find on the internet.
Does anybody know what RPM these motors run at, when producing a steady 800 watts?....I have found that comparable 63cc two strokes genset's running 1000 watt, state 3600 rpm Thanks ahead of time! 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/27/2013 11:07:15 PM EDT
[Last Edit: EXPY37]
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Blackoperations:
Couple of questions I cant seem to find on the internet. 1. Does anybody know what RPM these motors run at, when producing a steady 800 watts?....I have found that comparable 63cc two strokes genset's running 1000 watt, state 3600 rpm 2. What is the feasibility of separating the genset head from motor; I want to put a pulley on the genset head, don't care if I have to hack the motor: suggestions? Thanks ahead of time! By definition, for 60 hurtz, 3600 RPM for that sort of gen head. Been wondering the same thing, I expect the gen head is a single bearing, or none at all, for that sized power of 800 watts. Might have to use the engine and gen head as a unit and drive it from the pull start side. Or, the gen head stator and rotating field might be easily adaptable to some sort of Asian alternator case. Wouldn't surprise me... |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/27/2013 11:15:10 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Skibane]
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By EXPY37:
I expect the gen head is a single bearing, or none at all, for that sized power of 800 watts. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By EXPY37:
Originally Posted By Blackoperations:
2. What is the feasibility of separating the genset head from motor; I want to put a pulley on the genset head, don't care if I have to hack the motor: suggestions? I expect the gen head is a single bearing, or none at all, for that sized power of 800 watts. 
Doesn't look like any bearings at all for the alternator head. (Item 5 is just an oil seal). |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/1/2013 10:19:23 PM EDT
[#12]
Just purchased the red tank generator. Should I gap the NGK BP7ES to the same gap of the blue tank generator that is 0.028 - 0.031" gap?
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/1/2013 10:52:33 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Bronc:
Just purchased the red tank generator. Should I gap the NGK BP7ES to the same gap of the blue tank generator that is 0.028 - 0.031" gap? That will be fine. FWIW I still have the stock plug in mine. Well over 100 hours. |
|
|
|
FL, USA
|
Posted: 10/1/2013 10:53:59 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Bronc:
Just purchased the red tank generator. Should I gap the NGK BP7ES to the same gap of the blue tank generator that is 0.028 - 0.031" gap? I took out the 'egg roll special 'and gapped my NGK to what it was gapped at. I also added 40:1 marine grade 2 stroke oil instead of the 50:1 that's suggested, with no smoke, but for the first 3 minutes out of the box. I did the B&S pancake fuel filter and clear fuel line mods, as well. I stopped break-in at 14+ hours, figuring that that was enough, despite the 25 hours recommended by the manufacturer. My Storm Cat has run like a champ and started up on the first 'good' pull pretty much every time (6 sessions). Chris |
|
|
PA, USA
|
Posted: 10/2/2013 7:07:06 AM EDT
[#15]
Anyone have pics of the fuel filter addition. Is the consensus that this is necessary?
I'm currently running stock fuel line |
|
|
|
Posted: 10/2/2013 8:22:13 AM EDT
[#16]
Is anyone else's generator really hard starting?
I've had this generator for about two years. It has always been extremely hard to start, usually requiring starting fluid. It has had an NGK plug since day 1. It doesn't seem to flood unless I use the choke too much. It just doesn't start well, hot or cold. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/2/2013 10:00:25 AM EDT
[Last Edit: SeanTX]
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By KCGunnr:
Is anyone else's generator really hard starting? I've had this generator for about two years. It has always been extremely hard to start, usually requiring starting fluid. It has had an NGK plug since day 1. It doesn't seem to flood unless I use the choke too much. It just doesn't start well, hot or cold. Not hard to start but there is sort of a routine. I'll start at the end when I turn it off. There is a reason. 1. I never use the kill switch. I turn off the gas and let the carb bowl empty. It will run for a minute or so and start surging (this is with no load of course). 2. After 2 minutes or so it will die. 3. To start, open petcock and full choke. 4. Will start in 3-4 pulls. 5. Let run on chock until you hear a slight "bog" then turn choke full off. 6. Let it run for another minute or so before presenting a load. 7. Return to step one when you're through using it.
This ensures there is no stale gas in the carb bowl and every start is with "fresh" gas from the tank. I do this with pretty much everything that has a fuel petcock. If the generator hasn't been run for 4-6 weeks I'll drain the tank and use fresh mixed gas before using it. Is all this necessary? Don't know, but never a hiccup with any of my gas powered stuff. I figure it's good hygiene considering the abysmal excuse that is currently passed off as gasoline. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/2/2013 11:10:18 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By decypher:
Anyone have pics of the fuel filter addition. Is the consensus that this is necessary? I'm currently running stock fuel line I would replace the fuel line and the spark plug with something better, on this and pretty much any Chinese generator. I didn't put a filter on mine but could see how it might be beneficial. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/2/2013 2:26:01 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SeanTX:
Not hard to start but there is sort of a routine. I'll start at the end when I turn it off. There is a reason. 1. I never use the kill switch. I turn off the gas and let the carb bowl empty. It will run for a minute or so and start surging (this is with no load of course). 2. After 2 minutes or so it will die. 3. To start, open petcock and full choke. 4. Will start in 3-4 pulls. 5. Let run on chock until you hear a slight "bog" then turn choke full off. 6. Let it run for another minute or so before presenting a load. 7. Return to step one when you're through using it. .It also helps to open the fuel valve BEFORE moving the generator to where you'll be using it. The process of moving the generator sloshes fuel around in the tank, some of which gets pushed down into the carb bowl. The more you jostle the generator, the more fuel priming you get. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/4/2013 12:52:18 PM EDT
[#20]
Have had one of these for about a year. Has worked fine for several things. However, I fear it's doing something weird now. It sat for a few months and I couldn't get it started. Cleaned the carb all out and had to disconnect all the wires to get the front cover off. I'm 99.9% certain they're all back where they're supposed to be. Oddly though, when I start it now (which it does pretty easily) it just sounds like it's racing fast. I don't have a convenient way to measure RPMs. I put a multi meter on the outlet and with no load it shows like >200v and between 110-115 Hz. What the heck is going on? Is this normal? I never measured right after I bought it. If I plug a load in, will it govern it back to 120v 60hz properly or am I going to blow something up?
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/4/2013 2:14:59 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Skibane]
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By aheiser:
I don't have a convenient way to measure RPMs. If you have an old electric clock with a seconds hand on it, you can use it to measure frequency - Plug it in to the generator, and compare the amount of time it takes the seconds hand to cover a full 60 seconds with the same measurement on a wristwatch or stopwatch. Example: Clock connected to generator requires 67 seconds to make one full revolution of the seconds hand (measured with your wristwatch or stopwatch). 60 seconds / 67 seconds = 0.895 Conclusion: Generator is running at 89.5 percent of desired speed (or 53.7 Hz). Remedy: Adjust the generator governor to move the engine speed upward until the generator clock and your wristwatch both measure exactly 60 seconds per full revolution of the seconds hand. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/5/2013 1:35:34 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By aheiser:
Have had one of these for about a year. Has worked fine for several things. However, I fear it's doing something weird now. It sat for a few months and I couldn't get it started. Cleaned the carb all out and had to disconnect all the wires to get the front cover off. I'm 99.9% certain they're all back where they're supposed to be. Oddly though, when I start it now (which it does pretty easily) it just sounds like it's racing fast. I don't have a convenient way to measure RPMs. I put a multi meter on the outlet and with no load it shows like >200v and between 110-115 Hz. What the heck is going on? Is this normal? I never measured right after I bought it. If I plug a load in, will it govern it back to 120v 60hz properly or am I going to blow something up? Check the carb mounting bolts - I suspect a vacuum leak. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/5/2013 2:23:18 PM EDT
[Last Edit: aheiser]
[#23]
UPDATE: Turns out the governor arm was just loose on the spindle. Note that they put a super soft metal arm that squeezes around the spindle similar to a battery terminal/clamp. So I had to tighten it a lot to get it to bite in. Seems to be running fine again. Though after running with a load for 20min, unloaded, it will say 125v and 120Hz on the multimeter. Weird. After the cold startup it first said 125v and 62Hz. Goofy thing.
I think the carb bolts and nuts are tight and I believe the gaskets/plates are there and in the right order. Are there any other areas where a vacuum leak might develop on something this simple? I wonder if the governor linkage or armature inside some how went to pieces. Though I think I'd hear something else rattling or squealing. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/5/2013 9:02:54 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By aheiser:
after running with a load for 20min, unloaded, it will say 125v and 120Hz on the multimeter. Weird. Not uncommon. The AC waveform is kind of funky, particularly with no significant AC load connected. Confuses some meters when measuring frequency. Add a couple hundred watts of load, and it looks a lot more like the AC waveform that comes out of your wall outlets. |
|
|
|
IA, USA
|
Posted: 10/30/2013 2:04:04 PM EDT
[Last Edit: ssm1602]
[#25]
I was given another one of these and was told that it would run perfect for about 30 seconds. Before I even try to start it, I wanted to get a compression reading and see if any of you guys have done a check on your running machines. I got an average reading of 125 psi. Let me know what you think.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/30/2013 2:11:26 PM EDT
[Last Edit: SeanTX]
[#26]
Haven't tested mine, but for a 2 stroke that size you're probably in the zone regarding compression.
What happens after 30 seconds? Dies? Runs like garbage? Explodes? W/o even looking at the thing I will almost bet it is old/bad fuel or an obstructed jet caused by bad/old/contaminated fuel. |
|
|
|
IA, USA
|
Posted: 10/30/2013 2:22:10 PM EDT
[#27]
I sputters and dies. I thought the compression reading was in the ball park of where it should be. To me, it seems like a "fuel" issue of some sort, be it a venting problem in the tank or plugged jet. I also wonder if there is a vacuum leak in the crank case though and it is just leaning out to much. I haven't ran it yet. Just wanted to check things on it before I even fired it. I did pull the plug (Champion RN14YC Gapped .030") and it looked good. I am getting good spark too.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/30/2013 3:28:55 PM EDT
[#28]
one thing i have found on both of mine. 1/4 tank or so of fuel = empty. that burned me before when i thought it should have had enough to run. pulled fuel line and nothing. added gas and bingo ran like a champ.
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/30/2013 3:37:42 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By The_Beer_Slayer:
one thing i have found on both of mine. 1/4 tank or so of fuel = empty. that burned me before when i thought it should have had enough to run. pulled fuel line and nothing. added gas and bingo ran like a champ. Venting issue? I usually run mine dry (w/o a load of course) before putting it away, and it will run all the way down to an empty tank. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/30/2013 3:39:28 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dbrowne1:
Venting issue? I usually run mine dry (w/o a load of course) before putting it away, and it will run all the way down to an empty tank. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dbrowne1:
Originally Posted By The_Beer_Slayer:
one thing i have found on both of mine. 1/4 tank or so of fuel = empty. that burned me before when i thought it should have had enough to run. pulled fuel line and nothing. added gas and bingo ran like a champ. Venting issue? I usually run mine dry (w/o a load of course) before putting it away, and it will run all the way down to an empty tank. nope. both of mine will stop there even with the cap off. i suspect the fuel petcock mounted high in the tank in the wrong place. not a huge deal as these things sip gas anyway. just spent an hour trying to figure out why it wouldn't run when it was techinically out of gas. |
|
|
|
PA, USA
|
Posted: 10/31/2013 6:55:44 AM EDT
[#31]
Mine has the same issue... It will Peter out and die even with a 1/4inch in the tank. It made me scratch my head for 20mins the first time it happened... You can add fuel or just raise the far corner from the petcock..
|
|
|
IA, USA
|
Posted: 11/1/2013 8:25:06 AM EDT
[#32]
That is something I hadn't thought about. But now that it is brought up, it would make sense. I will have to give that a try after I have gone through it and replaced the fuel line on it with something better than stock. I am currently fixing the feet on it as it apparently has been dropped or something, because 2 of the cast mounts for the feet have been broke off. I am cleaning up all the joints and going to JB Weld them back on. Otherwise the machine is physically in really good shape. I will let you all know what I find when I get it back together and put a full tank of fuel in it.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/1/2013 8:48:12 AM EDT
[#33]
For those who have replaced the fuel line, what diameter did you use? I tried 1/4-inch hose, but it was a loose fit on the carburetor and fuel valve barbs.
Briggs and Stratton makes two similar in-line filters; one is for gravity –fed applications and is 150-micron and the other is 75-micron and is for applications with fuel pumps. I bought the 150-micron one because the gen is gravity-fed, but the filter media is just a fairly coarse screen. It is better than nothing, but I would have gone with the 75-micron filter had I actually seen it before ordering online. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/1/2013 12:40:42 PM EDT
[#34]
Question popped in another thread, figgered y'all the folks to answer it:
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_5/1551220_backbencher_s_delema____What_in_the_PX_will_run_in_a_2_stroke_engine_.html&page=1#i43647919 Anyone know the RPM of that 900 watt Harbor Freight generator? |
|
|
|
IA, USA
|
Posted: 11/1/2013 1:00:11 PM EDT
[#35]
It is 3600 RPM.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/1/2013 1:08:15 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By olson04:
For those who have replaced the fuel line, what diameter did you use? I tried 1/4-inch hose, but it was a loose fit on the carburetor and fuel valve barbs. Briggs and Stratton makes two similar in-line filters; one is for gravity –fed applications and is 150-micron and the other is 75-micron and is for applications with fuel pumps. I bought the 150-micron one because the gen is gravity-fed, but the filter media is just a fairly coarse screen. It is better than nothing, but I would have gone with the 75-micron filter had I actually seen it before ordering online. Almost certain it is 6mm fuel line. You can always take the old one with you to the parts store and have them confirm. Or measure it.
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/1/2013 1:24:29 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ssm1602: It is 3600 RPM. |
|
|
|
IA, USA
|
Posted: 11/1/2013 1:34:27 PM EDT
[#38]
The blog that I found on these, the guy used the red filter that is 150 micron. It said in the description of the Briggs part number that I looked up, it was for non fuel pump engines. I plan on using 1/4" fuel line with the screw style hose clamps. I am going with that size as it is what I have on hand already and will work. Also, the red fuel filter is for 1/4" fuel line as well. Hope this helps based on the research I have done.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/1/2013 2:10:47 PM EDT
[Last Edit: PARover]
[#39]
Can someone tell me some detail on this engine on the carb and exhaust?
For the carb I am assuming it is a fixed jet, but is the low side have any adjustment/caps/plugs to make it adjustable? Does the muffler have a catalyst in it? Thanks, PAR ETA: Anyone have one they are willing to donate (running or not) to the thread backbencher referred to above? |
|
|
|
FL, USA
|
Posted: 11/1/2013 4:09:23 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ssm1602:
The blog that I found on these, the guy used the red filter that is 150 micron. It said in the description of the Briggs part number that I looked up, it was for non fuel pump engines. I plan on using 1/4" fuel line with the screw style hose clamps. I am going with that size as it is what I have on hand already and will work. Also, the red fuel filter is for 1/4" fuel line as well. Hope this helps based on the research I have done. I did the Briggs & Stratton red pancake fuel filter and the 1/4" clear poly hose/clamp mod to mine. Couldn't get the lower pressure clamp off completely and the new clamp on, so I left that and put three worm gears on and called it a day. I also put a NGK plug in mine and bought a spare. After 14 hours running with 90% ethanol and marine grade 2 cycle oil at 40:1 and not 50:1, I pulled the plug and it was clean. No smoking except for 3 minutes worth on the initial start up out of the box. Chris |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/1/2013 4:27:19 PM EDT
[Last Edit: EXPY37]
[#41]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SeanTX:
Almost certain it is 6mm fuel line. You can always take the old one with you to the parts store and have them confirm. Or measure it. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SeanTX:
Originally Posted By olson04:
For those who have replaced the fuel line, what diameter did you use? I tried 1/4-inch hose, but it was a loose fit on the carburetor and fuel valve barbs. Briggs and Stratton makes two similar in-line filters; one is for gravity –fed applications and is 150-micron and the other is 75-micron and is for applications with fuel pumps. I bought the 150-micron one because the gen is gravity-fed, but the filter media is just a fairly coarse screen. It is better than nothing, but I would have gone with the 75-micron filter had I actually seen it before ordering online. Almost certain it is 6mm fuel line. You can always take the old one with you to the parts store and have them confirm. Or measure it. What a concept! 
|
|
|
|
NM, USA
|
Posted: 11/2/2013 2:17:58 PM EDT
[#42]
Got a $89 coupon the other day. May have to pick up another.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/2/2013 7:20:58 PM EDT
[#43]
I think there is no adjustments on the carb.
That said I use the old Motocross trick - to compensate for altitude just run a richer oil mix like 40:1 or 32:1 The quality of todays 2-stroke oil blends are such that running a richer oil mix won't cause any noticeable plug fouling until you get below 20:1 and most people I know won't mix below 32:1 unless they are using nitro fuels. Most of this excess oil will just be carried out as vapor in the exhaust gases, some will coat the insides of the muffler and may cause a few drips. |
|
|
|
NM, USA
|
Posted: 11/2/2013 8:02:42 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ProfGAB101:
I think there is no adjustments on the carb. That said I use the old Motocross trick - to compensate for altitude just run a richer oil mix like 40:1 or 32:1 The quality of todays 2-stroke oil blends are such that running a richer oil mix won't cause any noticeable plug fouling until you get below 20:1 and most people I know won't mix below 32:1 unless they are using nitro fuels. Most of this excess oil will just be carried out as vapor in the exhaust gases, some will coat the insides of the muffler and may cause a few drips. Not sure what elevation you are in Colorado, but here in New Mexico, I am at 5560 ft. (at the house) and 50:1 works best. Spend a lot of time camping/fishing around 9000 ft. A 45:1 works great there. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/4/2013 3:42:43 AM EDT
[#45]
I think I'm about 7000' - but in summer density alt can break 10K and even 11K at times. (Colorado Springs and Aspen airports are common textbook examples for pilot ground school training. AKA why your plane won't fly with even less than a full load.) Last mix I did was 40:1
Note: I have the older Blue model which seems to be more sensitive to octane levels. Now that its getting colder I'm not sure how to go - the pump gas in CO is some of the worst this side of Pemex . The stuff they pass off as "Regular" is 10% mystery piss @ 85 Octane but sold at the price level other states get 87 octane. Since this genny isn't used much and isn't a pig when it is running I buy the stuff sold as Premo and keep a 5 gal can which gets rotated out often so I don't use any additives other than what is in the 2 stroke oil blend.
I'm on my 4th tank full, still has the OEM installed plug and fires up on the first pull every time if you do it right. Fuel valve on Ignition switch on choke on Prime (wait 10 sec) Pull start run until it starts to miss a bit then open the choke, let run 2-3 additional minutes to fully warm up before attaching any load. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/4/2013 7:45:04 AM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ProfGAB101: I think there is no adjustments on the carb. That said I use the old Motocross trick - to compensate for altitude just run a richer oil mix like 40:1 or 32:1 The quality of todays 2-stroke oil blends are such that running a richer oil mix won't cause any noticeable plug fouling until you get below 20:1 and most people I know won't mix below 32:1 unless they are using nitro fuels. Most of this excess oil will just be carried out as vapor in the exhaust gases, some will coat the insides of the muffler and may cause a few drips. Thanks, looking at the parts list and diagrams it didn't look like there were any adjustments. For altitude (less o2) the richer oil will compensate for the carb adjustment by leaning the fuel mixture out. This wont help me running the engine on Charcoal lighter fluid and 70% Ethyl Alcohol... I need it richer. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/5/2013 12:37:24 AM EDT
[#47]
Could maybe mix in a few extra oz of K1 (Kerosene) or just plain diesel fuel. That should richen up your fuel, and the alki should help with octane rating.
|
|
|
|
IA, USA
|
Posted: 11/5/2013 11:06:38 AM EDT
[#48]
Anyone that wants to read the blog that I got my information from on what upgrades or changes the should be done to these, this is it.
http://utahlepidoptera.com/2011/12/23/hello-world/ I am going to be trying my generator this afternoon with a full tank of fuel. I have gone through it short of pulling the jug and head, off the crankcase. I made new gaskets for the "intake manifold" and either side of the carb to make sure I didn't haven any vacuum leaks. I even went through the carb and made sure it was extremely clean. So, the moment of truth will be this afternoon. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/5/2013 11:25:57 AM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By LOW2000:
If I wanted to use it to spin my electric meter backwards by plugging it into a wall socket, would that work? How much gasoline would you go through to break even on the price of the gen vs. $80 worth of electricity? Assume I get gasoline for free. I would advise against this. TXL |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/5/2013 11:29:14 AM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ProfGAB101: Could maybe mix in a few extra oz of K1 (Kerosene) or just plain diesel fuel. That should richen up your fuel, and the alki should help with octane rating. (R + M) /2ie Reckless + Motor trials = half a guess  The guys overseas need unconventional fuels, like only what they can find in the PX. |
|
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
