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Delrin Button to keep the Cocking Handle from beating up the housing and breaking off. E-mail [email protected] for more details. I'm finding the Older First Shipment SG5's have a 2 Piece Cocking Tube and a much more tapered nose when compared to the Newer Version. The Older Version has a much smaller opening in the front where you would install a Buffer Button. Also the length of the Buffer has to be made about 4 times as long as you can see in the Pic below. The Older versions had the Ribbed Cocking Tube Housing while the Newer Version has a Smooth Cocking Tube Housing. Keep this in mind when ordering a Buffer Button. Below: The long version of the buffer is for the old Gen1 made GSG-5. The short version of the buffer is for the newer Gen2 made GSG-5. |
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All for future refrence.
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To me, the GSG-5 felt front heavy, too front heavy. So I decided to do the Great Stuff
mod. But before doing so, I sprayed what I thought was the amount it would take to fill the stock and let it set to see how much I would need to spray and for how long (seems like about an 8 count). While I liked the density and knew it would solve part of the problem, I felt it would still be too front heavy. So I grabbed my change jar and started dropping in pennies until I felt the bottom had more than enough weight. Then I started taking a few out and adding them back to see what felt right. Turns out, IMO, that 50 pennies seemed to be just the right amount. So, with the opening facing up I made sure all 50 had been shaken down to the bottom flat and evenly distributed over the entire base, and keeping the stock upright I sprayed in the stuff. I let it set for about 2 minutes and then shook it from side to side and some of the pennies were still able to move so I shoved the straw dispenser as deep as I could, stirred it around and then gave it another 3 second spray. Then continued to shake if from side to side until the pennies were no longer moving. It feels great now. I could have added more pennies and still not been completely balanced, but I feel much better about it than before. I woudl recommend this to anyone, its very easy to do, just make sure to be careful with the stuff. Saying that is extremely sticky stuff is an understatement. And of course you dont have to use pennies, you could use anything with some added weight, it's just what I had available. |
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Why settle for only 72 Virgins?
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you were right 500 rounds and it starts light striking aquilla seems to be horrible CCI works fine still no subsonix ever. are you offering a kit to fix the problem at this time.
the can has a 14mm thread that rotates counter clock correct? what cans do you recomened that will swap faux of course |
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Tried the M74B laser w/mod... EPIC FAIL (by me at least).
The heat generated by the Dremeling fried the laser. $35 down the drain. Be careful and Dremel slowly, not allowing the laser to heat too much. |
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Has anyone tested the cocking tube laser through 500+ rounds to make sure the laser holds zero?? I have 2 on the way and can do the test/report, just wondering if its already out there.
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not had many but had the odd round not fire (light strike) was thinking about doing your mod , and wondered how is it holding up.. stick work ?
Andy |
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Just wonder how your mod has been holding up as I am thinking about do your mod this weekend?
Best Andy |
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The firing pin mod is holding up fine and working great.
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"Regular police procedure had failed, so I found it necessary to get out my stick and send him a message from my Lord." -- Deputy James Garcia
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Me too.
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Ok, my lasers came in and I've installed one in my Gen 1 GSG-5. This weekend I have a buddy coming out and we'll run it through the ringer. Will have a report in on the laser holding zero after 500-1000 rounds come Sunday.
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New here so bear with me. I have seen numerous references to Gen 1 GSG-5's, is there a SN range or characteristics that I should know that will each generation?
Thanks in advance, Jack |
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Take a look up in the buffer section where it shows the differences between the 2 generations. The latest (2nd) generation has a removable front sight post. 1st gen was the older style on the left in that picture and didn't have a removable front sight post. |
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Just got back from the range, put about 400 rounds through it. Fired semi slow and mag dumped as fast as I could pull the trigger. The sun was in my face, so I shot it at 10 yard (the furthest I could see the laser in the light). 2 groups were shot of 20 each, firing from a steady position, 1 by me and 1 by my buddy. It shot 2 inches low and varied left/right of center 1". His group had the same result. I'll be going back out when it' dark to shoot @ 25 yards, but off center windage wise @ 10 yards doesn't have me expecting much =\. I'll post back with an edit with update later today.
Edit: regarding the bullets shooting 2 inches low, I measured from barrel to laser, at 10 yards it shouldn't be that low. Second edit: Good news, I shake like a kid on a sugar high, my earlier findings were flawed. From bench rest @ 25 yards in lower light conditions the laser is accurate and hits the same place zeroed on Friday. For those on the fence about consistency, go for it. The laser holds zero past 500 shots. Make sure to follow the instructions - use an o-ring a bit smaller in diameter than the one supplied and you're golden. |
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I already replyed to your personal message but here it is for the rest who is interrested. The laser is rock solid in my GSG, I did make a little mod to it, when releasing the cocking tube the laser would sometimes fail to work. The batteries did not make good contact with the endcap of the laser unit because of the blow, I took a spring from a ballpoint and cut 1/3 of, this part I put between the endcap of the laser and the batteries. The laser endcap has a little notch that holds the spring in place, so problem solved. I did zero the laser ones and it still holding (after 1000+ rounds). The desingn makes it solid, the 3 adjustment srews hold each other in place, tighten them well (don't over do it) and you wil have no problem with this laser. |
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Any chance you have step buy step pics of the barrel fab?
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Now that's some great work! Too bad GSG didn't do it that way to begin with. |
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The firing pin, screw replacements and the buffer stop, are these mods you are suggesting should be done?
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None of them "have" to be done if you are happy with everything. The only thing I do recommend is blue locktite every screw. |
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I've been informed that the front part of the cocking tube where the laser sight screws in CAN NOT BE REMOVED on a Gen 2 rifle.
Something to keep in mind. I buggered mine up with a pair of vise grips trying to get it off before someone told me |
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Good idea but be carefull. I tried this myself yesterday and ended up screwing my stock up instead. You have to be very carefull when you fill the thing up, DO NOT OVERFILL. After putting my pennys in they would not stop rattling so I continued to add foam, I guess i put too much. I had foam coming out the buttplate, the sling holes, and the top. So after getting this sticky crap all over the stock I used the only recommended cleaning solution which was acetone. Unknown to me but acetone melts plastic so my stock looks like shiester now. So try this mod at your own risk. |
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I did the mod (cutting 4 links off) I am not sure which way to put the spring back in it has a metal insert in one end does that touch the firing (market "E") or does it go the end (market "D") in your pic it look like it at the D but I really what to be sure...
Man I really tried to take my time a watch the position and orientation but did seem to do a great job at spotting stuff Hmmm Best Andy |
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Andy, the plunger goes forward in the bolt cover as seen in the pics and the spring rests directly on top of the firing pin.
I had problems with that one as well when I did my 1st firing pin upgrade! Regards, Your "Colonial Cousin" |
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how come the gen 2 end cap does not screw off?any wat to adopt the laser to the gen 2?
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thanks man.. thats what I did but great to have it confirmed
cheers Andy
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Originally Posted By jackal2001:
Ejector Plate Fix using flat head screw instead of rivet. - by 00boto On one of my GSG's, I used an M2 counter sunk flat head which is just as solid as a rivet. You can get all of the hardware needed for this job at www.mcmaster.com. Hardware Needed - Drill Press or Hand Drill (if you feel like you can hold a hand drill straight) M2x.4 Drill and Tap Set (Drill bit is usually a 1.60mm drill bit) 4mm drill bit M2x0.4x6mm Flat Head Screw Finished Product Below http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/ww65/00boto/GSG001.jpg Instructions 1. Drill 1.50-1.60mm (drill that comes with tap) hole in center of circular tab. The tabs are not quite punched in the center so take your time and get the hole centered and straight. 2. Tap the hole with M2x0.4 tap. Use oil while running the tap through the hole 3. Use 4mm drill bit to counter sink ejector plate so that the flat head screw will sit flush with the ejector plate. 3. Use M2x0.4x6mm flat head screw with RED loctite to secure the screw. You don't want to ever have to remove this screw so use RED. Hope this helps! I just fixed mine per your idea and I wanted to check the picture because I may have drilled it to far back on the firing pin. Now there is no picture for me to check it. Can you repost it? |
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Decided to post a run down of mod's/enhancments I did to my new GSG-5. Had it about a week, put about 500 rounds through it. Flawless operation and very accurate.
On day one I completely dis-assembled the gun (following Jackal's excellent instructions) and cleaned all the factory oil and lube from all parts. I went back with Rem. Dry lube and some strategic drops of Rem.Oil. Also used a small dab of grease on the drop-safety spring, since it is captive on both sides and will effect the "feel" and smoothness of the trigger's 1st stage operation . I Re-assembled the gun with Blue lock-tite on all screws in the frame, barrel, breech-slide and trigger. (Most important step of all) I removed the magazine safety, but that tuned out to be a mistake. It resulted in magazines being very loose and wobbly when inserted into the gun, so much so, that not only was it annoying, but it would effect the feed of bullets into the gun, IMHO. I put the magazine safety back in, and would not recommned removing it. The magazines were steady as a rock after putting it back again. While I was in there I did a few other things. In the frame I noticed that the guide-rod, for the charging-handle spring, rotated and rattled in the frame where it sits. That caused the charging handle spring to have roughness in it's operation and a cheap "slinky" sound when cocked. To fix this I simply tucked some small pieces of dense foam around the rod. Cocking of the gun now operates smoothly, with no movement of the rod and no cheap sounds. http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s223/watsongrg/GSG-5011.jpg http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s223/watsongrg/GSG-5012.jpg Next I decided to make a buffer, as others have done, for the charging handle, so it would not slam into it's slot in the frame when released. In the plumbing Dept. at Home Depot, I found a couple items that were the proper 11/16" outer diameter size, that worked perfect. The (Danco brand 3/8L faucet stem repair) beveled washer and o-ring, stacked together make a buffer with a little "cush" for the cocking tube to travel forward into, without damaging the handle or frame, and it eliminates any cheap metalic noise when the handle moves forward after cocking the gun. I was able to install these items, without seperating the frame halves, by inserting them horizontaly, into the cocking-handle slot, and then turn them into position, and used the charging tube to "ram-rod" them into position, with a couple pulls and releases. http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s223/watsongrg/GSG-5020.jpg The pieces are oriented like on the pencil tip below, the cocking tube hits the o-ring. http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s223/watsongrg/CopyofIMG_0680.jpg http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s223/watsongrg/GSG-5019.jpg http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s223/watsongrg/GSG-5013.jpg Next, I decided to polish the key parts that make for a really smooth semi-auto firearm. The trigger sear, hammer, and breech slide. I used a 3-piece manicure file set that you can buy for $1.50 at most any store that has a beauty/grooming isle. http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s223/watsongrg/GSG-5009.jpg With these files you can safetly polish any metal surface to a mirror finish, without worrying about changing the real shape or profile of the hammer or sear. I did the sear and associatied hammer release surfaces (no pics) and the bottom edge of the breech-slide and hammer-face contact surfaces. These meet everytime the slide cycles to cock the gun'ss hammer. http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s223/watsongrg/GSG-5002.jpg http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s223/watsongrg/GSG-5004.jpg hard to see mirror finish http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s223/watsongrg/GSG-5010.jpg The result is buttery smooth operation of the charging (cocking) handle, trigger pull, and firing-cycle operation of the gun. And a neat little rifle that will stay together for years to come.... These target were 30 yards standing(right) and 60 yards resting arm (left) http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s223/watsongrg/GSG-5003.jpg All I can say is WOW, with a big smile on my face. |
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15-round mag into 24-round mag
I got fed up with not being able to find any 22-round mags for my PK. So I purchased a 15-round mag at the range the other day. They had about 9 of them there. After reviewing the mag, I came up with an idea. I modded it to take 24 rounds. That's right, 24 rounds! DISCLAIMER. Check you own State's law before proceeding. Mod at your own risk. I'm not responsible for your action or decision. You'll need: One (1) 15-round mag. The GSG tool that came with your riffle/pistol. A 9/64 drill bit and an electric drill. A Dremel cutting bit that looks like a drill bit. And a Dremel. If you don't have this, might be able to work with drill bit. I can't find my camera cord, so I'll post picts tomorrow. Here are the steps: 1) Take off the 2 screws on the top of the mag. And the 2 screws on the bottom of the mag's base. And lastly, the hex bolt on the follower. 2) Carefully pry the two halves apart. The lower spring base, not the cap, is slightly epoxy to the stopper piece and also to one of the mag's side. http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e121/fourstardrift/GSG5PK-mag-apart.jpg 3) Once apart, you can pry off one of the stopper that's on the rail of the mag. 4) Use the 9/64 drill bit to drill out the other pin of the stopper to the lower spring base. You'll only need to drill out one of the two pins, since only one is epoxy to the lower spring base. Use the drill bit to punch out the other pin to the base. Now take off the stopper on that rail, and the lower spring base. http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e121/fourstardrift/GSG5PK-mag-parts.jpg 5) The epoxy might have spilled onto the rail of the mag, so this is where the Dremel comes in. Just use it to smooth out the rail so the follower will slide smoothly up and down the mag. Make sure you clean out any plastic pieces that might come from the Dremeling. 6) Apply some grease, if need to, and assemble the mag back together. Leave the lower spring base out, and use use the base cap. There are two small posts on the cap to help keep the spring in place. 7) Now load up 24 rounds of .22LR. Have fun!!! http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e121/fourstardrift/GSG5PK-full-mag.jpg |
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Originally Posted By jackal2001:
[div style='text-align: center;']Phillips Type Screw Replacement</center id=center> [div style='text-align: center;']Replaced with Hex Head Stainless Steel Screws and Nuts</center id=center> The majority of the screws on the GSG are a "phillips type" screw. Even though they look like a standard phillips head, they are not. If you look closely you can see there is almost a star pattern to it as well. The only tool that should be used is the Orange Handled Multi-Tool that ships with the gun. A better option would be to replace the screws with hex head stainless steel screws. If you are having problems finding the screws locally you can order them from over in the EE. See links below in the last section. Summary of what to get when shopping at the hardware store: (12) - m3 hex nuts (11) - m3 hex head, .50 thread pitch, 12mm long (1) - m3 hex head, .50 thread pitch, 16mm long (2) - m2.5 hex nuts (2) - m2.5 heax head, .45 thread pitch, 12mm long Location: (4) m3 12mm, with nuts, for the trigger assembly (3) m3 12mm, with nuts, for the bolt assembly (4) m3 12mm, with nuts for the main reciever (1) m3 16mm, with nut - this is the barrel screw (you need this one 16mm to be long enough for the nut to attach (2) m2.5 12mm, with m2.5 nuts for the bolt assemby (these are the slightly smaller screw on the bolt assembly, they have a star hex that is a pain to get out, definately worth it to replace these as they strip easily. Some Pictures of a few of the locations: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l340/GSG5Host2/screwreplacement/barrelbolts1.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l340/GSG5Host2/screwreplacement/barrelbolts2.jpg http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l340/GSG5Host2/screwreplacement/GSGboltreplacement.jpg Complete Replacement screw sets avilable here: GSG 5 Replacement Screw Sets |
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Originally Posted By knedrgr:
15-round mag into 24-round mag I got fed up with not being able to find any 22-round mags for my PK. So I purchased a 15-round mag at the range the other day. They had about 9 of them there. After reviewing the mag, I came up with an idea. I modded it to take 24 rounds. That's right, 24 rounds! DISCLAIMER. Check you own State's law before proceeding. Mod at your own risk. I'm not responsible for your action or decision. You'll need: One (1) 15-round mag. The GSG tool that came with your riffle/pistol. A 9/64 drill bit and an electric drill. A Dremel cutting bit that looks like a drill bit. And a Dremel. If you don't have this, might be able to work with drill bit. I can't find my camera cord, so I'll post picts tomorrow. Here are the steps: 1) Take off the 2 screws on the top of the mag. And the 2 screws on the bottom of the mag's base. And lastly, the hex bolt on the follower. 2) Carefully pry the two halves apart. The lower spring base, not the cap, is slightly epoxy to the stopper piece and also to one of the mag's side. 3) Once apart, you can pry off one of the stopper that's on the rail of the mag. 4) Use the 9/64 drill bit to drill out the other pin of the stopper to the lower spring base. You'll only need to drill out one of the two pins, since only one is epoxy to the lower spring base. Use the drill bit to punch out the other pin to the base. Now take off the stopper on that rail, and the lower spring base. 5) The epoxy might have spilled onto the rail of the mag, so this is where the Dremel comes in. Just use it to smooth out the rail so the follower will slide smoothly up and down the mag. Make sure you clean out any plastic pieces that might come from the Dremeling. 6) Apply some grease, if need to, and assemble the mag back together. Leave the lower spring base out, and use use the base cap. There are two small posts on the cap to help keep the spring in place. 7) Now load up 24 rounds of .22LR. Have fun!!! BEEN 8 DAYS WHERE ARE THE PICS? you posted you did thid mod in another postr, so I came over here tolook & no pics |
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Sorry for the delay. The camera cord is MIA. And it's not the standard USB cord either... I'm going to search the house for it tonight, and will post pics.
Just bought more 15 rounders to do the mod. |
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Originally Posted By Jimmy500:BEEN 8 DAYS WHERE ARE THE PICS?
you posted you did thid mod in another postr, so I came over here tolook & no pics Updated with pictures. Hope it helps you. Have fun modding. |
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How much are replacement firing pins/strikers, in the event that the mod goes awry?
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"The uh...plaque for the alternates is down in the ladies room." |
Okay guys. I picked up my new gsg-5p on Friday. I found the grip to be uncomfortable, so I took a Hogue slip-on grip sleeve from one of my Sig 225's and it helps a lot. I took the gun a part and cleaned and oiled it. When I got it back together, when cleaning up I found a stray spring on the floor. It is about 1.5cm long and about 1.5mm wide. Question: Where the heck did that come from?
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that's the spring for the bolt-open/empty mag lever on the receiver. It just goes between the receiver and the lever in the mag well.
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Originally Posted By knedrgr:
that's the spring for the bolt-open/empty mag lever on the receiver. It just goes between the receiver and the lever in the mag well. How does it go in? Ah. I found this in another thread: Originally Posted By jackal2001:
The Missing or Flying Spring Last Round Bolt Hold Open
Most people have encountered a problem with the bolt hold open feature of the GSG-5 not working correctly. There is a tiny spring that sits behind the breech-housing that can easily fall out when removing the breech-housing for routine cleaning. Below are pictures of the proper location of the spring. These are pictures looking directly into the breech/ejection port of the weapon.
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