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Posted: 7/11/2009 1:08:09 PM EDT

KA-BAR SNAPPED AT THE HANDLE

WHAT DO I DO? WILL KA-BAR SEND ME A NEW ONE? HELP!!!http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa146/Blackhawk11195/DSC01817.jpg HAVE MORE PICS!!!

Posted: 7/11/2009 1:18:23 PM EDT

[#1]

Wow, how did that happen?!?!?!?! I would think that they would send you a new one as long as you weren't abusing your knife when it broke by trying to pry something open with it......

Posted: 7/11/2009 1:19:49 PM EDT

[#2]

Damn, WTH were you doing with it?

From their web site:

Limited Lifetime Warranty

If at any time your knife fails to perform due to manufacturer’s defect,
we will replace the product with the same model or the most similar
model to it from our current product line.

Posted: 7/11/2009 1:39:55 PM EDT

[#3]

using on some small peices of wood out in the everglades to start a fire...put myself in a survival situation

Posted: 7/11/2009 1:42:57 PM EDT

[#4]

i was chopping some small peices of wood (no prying) the peices of wood were maybe 1 ft long by 6 inches wide

Posted: 7/11/2009 2:31:38 PM EDT

[#5]

That's a common area for breakage with that design. Good question about the Ka Bar warranty. What vintage is your knife?

Posted: 7/11/2009 2:47:25 PM EDT

[#6]

Another case for full tang designs.

Posted: 7/11/2009 2:58:54 PM EDT

[#7]

Quoted:
Another case for full tang designs.

USMC Ka-Bar Plain Full Tang Model: KBAR1217

ETA: I was under the assumption these were full tanged knifes.

Posted: 7/11/2009 3:05:43 PM EDT

[#8]

If they won't replace it, grind it down into a trout and bird knife.

Then get a hatchet for chopping firewood

Posted: 7/11/2009 3:16:03 PM EDT

[#9]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Another case for full tang designs.

USMC Ka-Bar Plain Full Tang Model: KBAR1217

ETA: I was under the assumption these were full tanged knifes.

They are. The tang goes all the way through the knife and that square indent on the pommel is where the tang is heated and hammered to complete the knife like swords used to be.

OP using a knife to cut wood in a survival situation is a good way to end up without a knife. Just because Les Stroud does it does not mean its a good idea.

Posted: 7/11/2009 3:19:03 PM EDT

[#10]

Make a VFG with the handle!
CHRIS

Posted: 7/11/2009 3:20:36 PM EDT

[#11]

I'm impressed that you were able to get the blade out of the hooker's body!

Posted: 7/11/2009 3:21:48 PM EDT

[#12]

Quoted:

Make a VFG with the handle!

CHRIS

Actually, that's a pretty clever idea.

Posted: 7/11/2009 3:56:48 PM EDT

[#13]

Cixelsyd: what is a VFD?
Bloodsport: i have a hatchet but the whole point of being in the everglades with just this knife and some water was the point of the survival situation to be caught off guard with just this knife and i could survive... and to all the other people, i have a vietnam hatchet; the one with the side that punctures skulls

Posted: 7/11/2009 3:57:29 PM EDT

[#14]

VFG rather...

Posted: 7/11/2009 4:19:48 PM EDT

[#15]

They should take care of you on that. Check the break area for discoloring or rust that shows a crack existed prior to you breaking it. I have seen a few bucks break on a hairline crack that was present before the task that broke the knife.

Posted: 7/11/2009 5:12:13 PM EDT

[#16]

the KaBar (and the USAF survival knives) are stick tang––a relatively narrow tang that ends with a threaded section to screw the pommel to. They aren't the strongest designs but they do make for some comfortable handles––and they're strong enough for most uses.

something like this: http://www.knifekits.com/vcom/product_info.php?cPath=2_333&products_id=1726

vs this: http://www.knifekits.com/vcom/product_info.php?cPath=2_286&products_id=1496

Posted: 7/11/2009 9:19:17 PM EDT

[#17]

Send it back.
They will replace it.

Posted: 7/11/2009 10:04:25 PM EDT

[#18]

does anyone know what vfg means?

Posted: 7/11/2009 10:07:27 PM EDT

[#19]

Quoted:
the KaBar (and the USAF survival knives) are stick tang––a relatively narrow tang that ends with a threaded section to screw the pommel to. They aren't the strongest designs but they do make for some comfortable handles––and they're strong enough for most uses.

something like this: http://www.knifekits.com/vcom/product_info.php?cPath=2_333&products_id=1726

vs this: http://www.knifekits.com/vcom/product_info.php?cPath=2_286&products_id=1496

That's what I meant.
Not "full length".

VFG = Vertical Fore Grip

Posted: 7/12/2009 12:09:05 AM EDT

[#20]

never heard of it called a VFG but ya that sounds awesome cause i just put some free float rails on my colt carbine....colonelhurts-how would i do this it sounds quite appealing

Posted: 7/12/2009 12:33:50 AM EDT

[#21]

Quoted:
never heard of it called a VFG but ya that sounds awesome cause i just put some free float rails on my colt carbine....colonelhurts-how would i do this it sounds quite appealing

What do you call it?

Just buy one and screw it on.
I have one from GG&G. http://www.gggaz.com/index.php?id=48&parents=38,44
They come in many flavors.

Posted: 7/12/2009 10:38:07 AM EDT

[#22]

My brother has one from back in the 1960's that he bought at a hardware store and it broke in the same place. Somebody welded it for him.

Posted: 7/12/2009 12:31:28 PM EDT

[#23]

K-Bar's are cool (I've had several), but maybe you'd want to go with a more "heavy duty" type knife for "survival", especially if chopping, splitting, or batoning of logs is expected.

Something from Bark River, Busse, Swamp Rat, Chris Reeve, or Scrap Yard, maybe?

They aren't $50 knives, but they're also made a bit more stoutly...

Posted: 7/12/2009 1:13:22 PM EDT

[#24]

nevermind.

Posted: 7/12/2009 2:43:13 PM EDT

[#25]

colonelhurtz we just call it a forward grip and i hant to turn my kbar handle into a forwad grip how would i do this?

Posted: 7/13/2009 4:45:06 AM EDT

[#26]

I'de give them a call. I don't know about ka-bar's but I've seen where ka-bar replaced beckers with much less failure than this.

Posted: 7/13/2009 8:44:21 AM EDT

[#27]

thank you all, ka-bar called me back and within 20 seconds the nice customer service lady said, "send it in, well send you a new one." ka-bar is now on my list of favorite companies!

Posted: 7/13/2009 1:29:19 PM EDT

[#28]

Quoted:

K-Bar's are cool (I've had several), but maybe you'd want to go with a more "heavy duty" type knife for "survival", especially if chopping, splitting, or batoning of logs is expected.

Something from Bark River, Busse, Swamp Rat, Chris Reeve, or Scrap Yard, maybe?

What is the pictured knife?

Posted: 7/13/2009 1:32:12 PM EDT

[#29]

Blackhawk,

I applaud you for getting out and seeing what the knife would take. Better to find out in somewhat controlled circumstances than to really need it. I would use the Kabar for most any type cutting task, but pass on the batoning with them.

YMMV

Doc

Posted: 7/13/2009 1:34:58 PM EDT

[#30]

I had two of them, and they both broke the same way. I was batoning hard wood and they broke. The first time I had it replaced; the second time I figured I would just buy a better knife and not have to worry about it ever again.

That was when I discovered the Busse family of knife companies, a couple of years ago. These can take all the punishment in the world you could possibly want to throw at them.

Once I bought my first one, I never looked back.

Posted: 7/13/2009 4:01:59 PM EDT

[#31]

The blade mentioned by pitbull is a scrapyard knife company blade. I can't tell you which one right off. They make some inexpensive and tough blades for stuff like you described in your outing. Look at their website...http://scrapyardknives.com/

Posted: 7/13/2009 9:04:53 PM EDT

[#32]

thank you doc, and to jbom i also broke mine trying to cut pretty hard wood. But to all im building my my own knife right now with a full tang

so i wont encounter this problem again

Posted: 7/14/2009 3:45:50 PM EDT

[#33]

Quoted:

Quoted:
K-Bar's are cool (I've had several), but maybe you'd want to go with a more "heavy duty" type knife for "survival", especially if chopping, splitting, or batoning of logs is expected.

Something from Bark River, Busse, Swamp Rat, Chris Reeve, or Scrap Yard, maybe?

What is the pictured knife?

Looks like a Scrap Yard SOD (Son of Dogfather).
I endorse Pitbull's post.

Posted: 7/14/2009 3:49:25 PM EDT

[#34]

Quoted:

Quoted:

K-Bar's are cool (I've had several), but maybe you'd want to go with a more "heavy duty" type knife for "survival", especially if chopping, splitting, or batoning of logs is expected.

Something from Bark River, Busse, Swamp Rat, Chris Reeve, or Scrap Yard, maybe?

What is the pictured knife?

Looks like a Scrap Yard SOD (Son of Dogfather).

I endorse Pitbull's post.

Yep. That's the SOD.

Posted: 7/15/2009 8:33:43 PM EDT

[#35]

That Scrapyard SOD is a great knife!!! All the Busse, Swamprat and Scrapyard knives are super tough blades that will take a beating and are guarenteed for life.

Posted: 7/16/2009 12:09:12 AM EDT

[#36]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Another case for full tang designs.

USMC Ka-Bar Plain Full Tang Model: KBAR1217

ETA: I was under the assumption these were full tanged knifes.

They are. The tang goes all the way through the knife and that square indent on the pommel is where the tang is heated and hammered to complete the knife like swords used to be.

OP using a knife to cut wood in a survival situation is a good way to end up without a knife. Just because Les Stroud does it does not mean its a good idea.

What else are you going to cut wood with? A knife is designed to cut wood and that is exactly what you will need to do to survive. I have used my fixed blade knives and even folders in the field to cut and chop wood for fires, lean to shelters and for spears. Saying don't use your knife to cut wood is like saying don't use your car to drive around in.

Posted: 7/16/2009 12:18:07 AM EDT

[#37]

Quoted:
does anyone know what vfg means?

Vertical Forward Grip

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