Found a guy local to me selling his asking $200 for it. What are these usually worth in this condition? And if I get it, what ammo is safe to shoot out of it?


Untitled by Sn8kebitten, on Flickr

Untitled by Sn8kebitten, on Flickr

Untitled by Sn8kebitten, on Flickr

Untitled by Sn8kebitten, on Flickr

Make sure it has the bolt face, extractor/ejector and an unbroken fireing pin.  Many of these were sold in the states without these parts as "wall hangers".  As for shooting it, all the research I have done points to slugging the barrel to find out for sure.  Do not shoot surplus 8mm out of this, its generally too hot.  Some have said that commercial 8mm is ok because it is much less hot/less pressure (FWIW I am not advocating this).  Again, the safest would be to slug then reload your own proper diameter cast bullets.

That is about what I paid for one of the 1888's I have...  but that one is pretty worn on the finish.  I'm not sure if prices have gone up in the years since I bought mine to account for that.

As for ammo, you need to slug the barrel to find out if you've got an original .318" bore or if it has been re-bored to .323".  The one I have I hand load .318" bullets for it using a Lee Collet Neck Sizing die which I ordered a .318" mandrel for so it can squeeze the neck of the cases down enough to hold the smaller bullets.  I also load to a conservative level (below even commercial 8x57 Mauser ammo) just to be on the safe side.  I've worked up loads that are accurate, very pleasant to shoot and also very economical because neck sizing only with low pressure levels means I get lots of loads before the cases wear out and I don't use a lot of powder.  One of the powders that works well is IMR 4198.  I've been using copper jacketed bullets from either Buffalo Arms or Graf & Son's but you could save even more by using cast lead bullets, perhaps with a copper gas check.  I actually have been loading berdan brass from some milsurp ammo using the Tulammo primers.  I color each case base with a blue sharpie so I can immediately tell the .318" loads for the 1888 apart from all of my other 8x57 Mauser ammo.

That "S" and relief cut usually Spitzer conversion.  .323  (or probably closer to a .321 - mine was).

Surplus 8mm might be a little hot for her - remember it only has two locking lugs.  

These things are pretty cool - I haven't shot all of mine - just my unconverted one.  Luckily I stumbled on some 8x57j in .318 - put a couple through it and put it away.

I need to get setup for reloading and actually enjoy them.

The S means the neck/throat has been altered for the 7.92x57S .323 154gr spritzer ammo.  Slug the bore to determine dia only real way to be sure 318 vs 323 replacement bbl.

Either way don't shoot the later 197gr Ss type surplus ammo or 176gr Smk.

The original  S ammo has a very short bearing surface and will go through a 318 bore fairly well with no major pressure issue, about the same for the Romanian 154 gr surplus which is a boat tail bullet with narrow bearing surface though I would still recommend downloading either the Turk ( most Turk is 7.92x57S spec ammo ) or Romanian ammo if you wish to shoot it through a converted 88/05.

If really paranoid you can get 318 bullets.

Really nice shooting rifles with smooth action.

Value OP rifle 88/05 ...if complete ( Bolt Head ) and good bore $200, + $50 for matching bolt. Original unconverted 1888's in shootable condition will bring more money.

I was looking at getting one also, but decided not to because of the reloading issue. Not to change topics, but are the Turkish Gew 88/35 in the same situation regarding modern ammo and chamber pressures or can they shoot shoot modern PPU FMJ

The Turk 88/05/35 has a 323 bore but because of the action I still wouldn't shoot the heavy 198gr ammo like Commercial S&B,PPU or surplus 198 Ss Yugo Surplus etc.

I've shot Turk surplus S Ball and the Romanian 154 FMJBT through mine.

thanks for the heads up. any thoughts on this stuff. Is this what you are referring to? Looks like around 2400fps
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