Hello all,
 I have 2 questions concerning this scope and you will probably ask "Is this guy for real'? How stupid can he be but I have very little experience with scopes and 0 with adjustable turrets. So here are my questions.

1. I have read that the Leupold Ar Mod 1 turrets are set so that if you zero them at 100 yards you can use the turrets as a estimate for longer yards. IE turn to 1.5 for 150 yards 2 for 200 yards -5 for 500 yards. Does the VX-R patrol do the same?

2. If you zero the scope for 100 yards and then reset the knobs do you set it for 1 or 0?

Not stupid questions at all. However, the answer isn't something I can post without getting really involved. I suggest you do some reading on what a MOA and milliradian is. Once you understand that, your questions will be easier answer. There is a metric-shit-ton of info on the subject, you're going to have to do some reading to fully understand it. I'm sure someone has some better links but you can start with this.

http://snipercountry.com/Articles/MilDot_MOA.asp

I somewhat understand the Moa/mil relationship with distance etc. I realize you use the formula for that but since i do to not have a shooting range convenienly accessible (sorry I live in Maryland) I haven't been able to use this scope. I have read the Leupold Ar Mod 1 uses a P5 turret. I assume they can be ordered through leupold bit wasn't sure if the VX-r was the same turret. The 2nd question is more or less governed by question 1. So if you zero your scope at a certain distance ex. 100 yards I realize that that means your round will hit (in theory) dead center of your aim. Do if you have turrets that indicate distance you set the caps to 100 and not 0? Meaning your caps will always say 1or more depending on distance?

If you zero your rifle at 100yds the turret will read zero. If you are taking a 500 yd shot you will need dial in the correction(come-ups). What that number is depends on the ballistics of your rifle/ammo. You'll have to use a ballistic calculator to find out how many mils or MOA's you'll need to come-up for a 500 yard shot. Say it's 6.5 mils, you just dial up to the 6.5 mark. Same deal fo MOA's, just different number values. To return to your original 100 yd zero, you just dial it back down to zero. You need scope dope for your rifle. It's late, I hope I am making some sense.

The VX-R Patrol 1.25x4 that I have has standard Mil turret caps. My particular carbine that it sits on is zeroed at 50 yards and the turret is set on "0". To hit a target at 500 yards, using my custom hand-loaded ammo, I set the turret to 2.7 mils, and aim dead-on.

It does not have the turrets as you described.

VX-R Patrol scopes have turrets and reticles that are true milrad.  I have the 3-9x40mm version, but turrets are the same.  The milrad system is accurate at 4x on the 1.25-4x version and at 9x on the 3-9x version, as these are second focal plane scopes.  Yes, you can estimate range, and absolutely adjust holdover with the elevation turret, but not in the manner you suggest.

The milrad system is amazingly easy to use once you play with it at the range and get MOA thinking out of your head.  It is completely independent of any specific ammo.  It does not depend on a preset bullet drop from 55 grain M193 or 62 grain M855.  Rather, you use the actual or closely estimated velocity and ballistic coefficient of the bullet in the load you are actually shooting.  There is published data for most factory loads and barrel lengths that can get you close and then you fine tune at the range.  It is easier to do than to explain.

One mil is one yard at 1000 yards.  That is 3.6" at 100 yards.  It is the same system originally used by land surveyors.  The clicks on the Patrol turrets are .1mil, which is .36".  The system revolves around yards and fractions of yards rather than inches.

The Patrol turrets are 6.0 mils per revolution.  Different people will zero different ways, but most will probably use a traditional combat zero of 50/250 as their baseline.  That means that your bullet stays within about 3-4" (depending on load) of your point of aim out to almost 300 yards, so no holdover is needed until you pass that "point blank" range.  Then you use "come up" data for ranges beyond that.  Using that zero, I can shoot out to 600 yards without passing zero on the elevation turret.

I have a pet 55 grain Barnes TSX bullet handload. I use a simple software ballistic calculator to develop the "come ups" based on that bullet velocity, BC, and my chosen zero.  I use Strok+, but there are several good ones.  I have printed out the come ups out to 600 yards, and have them laminated and attached to the rifle.

Again, this is much easier to do than to explain.  Its beauty is its simplicity once you use it a bit, its independence on a single factory load, and its high accuracy, if worked up carefully.

Here is a detailed Strelok+ come up chart for one particular load.   The one with my rifle is abbreviated and covers only 300 to 600 yards in 50 yard increments.  I'm showing the details to help uou with the concept.

For this load, if I have a target at 500 yards, I move the elevation turret to 2.8 (the same as 28 clicks)and hold straight on.  If in a hurry, I would quickly rotate to "3" and then two clicks back.

Just do it.  Milrad ranging is a superior system.  Far right column is the "hold off" left or right for a 10 mph cross wind.  The column to its left is the "come up" data for that load.  575 yards is the last distance where that particular bullet remains supersonic. After that it goes transonic and is stable to 600, but destabilizes after that.  So this is a 600 yard max load.

Your 500 yard DOPE is only 2.7 mils from a 50 yard zero? What bullet weight are you shooting and how hot is that load?

Not hot at all, I'm loading 25.7 gr. of H335 with a pulled military M193 55gr. bullet.

Not much different than that table above.

I guess I'm so used to shooting the heavy bullets that it threw me off. That and the 50 yard zero.

2.7 is probably about right.  My elevation dope (that table above) is 2.8 mils for the Barnes 55 grain TSX at 500 yards and 2,900 fps MV.  But, I am limited to 600 yards with the light bullet.   The TSX is a bit longer due to solid copper construction, but my velocity may be down a little.  My load is not maximum.  Close, but an extra 50 fps would not help much and might ruin accuracy.  My zero is also a little different.  It is not a true 50/250, but is close, as I want to control rise to no more than 3.0" midrange.

I mistook this scope to be like the AR mod 1. A YouTube review stated the AR Mod 1 uses the Turret to adjust range and he said one of the great features was that you turn the turret to whatever distance you are at and he stated 100 yards turn to 1 300 turn to 3 etc. I am not sure if he was incorrect or not but I believe the AR mod shows a specific round that the caps are for.
Even so what screws with my mind is if you zero at 100 then the caps first 9 increments will be not be of use? Or if you zero at 100 yards and set turret caps to zero then if your at 50 yards you would put the cap at .5 or (5 clicks up from 0)? Seems to me if your caps are calibrated as described and you zero at 100 and move caps to zero then any adjustment in 1/10 mil increments from  0 will always be shooting you high by 10 clicks or 1 mil. Seems to me if you caps are claibrated and you zero at 100 yards you should reset your caps to 100.

How accurate do you need to be?  If you are shooting at very tiny targets you may want a 100 yard zero and know the precise holdovers or hold unders for other distances.  But, if you use a 50/250 zero and don't mind being within 3" of your point of aim, as for hunting most game or shooting steel, then you need NO turret adjustments out to about 275 yards.  See chart above.  Only beyond 300 do you really need to be moving the turrets.  This is where the milrad system takes over.

What targets will you be shooting?  What size?  Fixed distance or varying range, and how far?

You can have custom turrets made(or Leupy makes them already,IDK) that will be marked like 2 for 200, 3 for 300 and so on. The only problem with that is it will only be good for a certain load. The best thing, IMO, is to use mil or MOA turrets and make your own dope for each load. You can also find premade ballistic cards for the most common loads and barrel lengths. However, if you want precision you'll need to chrono each load from your barrel and use a good ballistic calc to make your dope. I also have found that a 50yd zero to be best for the AR-15 in 5.56/.223.

Its all very confusing to me. I think I may use the 50yd-  250yard. I have the Patrol 1.25 to 4 SPR. Each has is 2.5 mils. I was told that with 100 yard zero you don't have to do anything and should score a hit on a 2meter target if it fills the circle.

It's ok.  Play with it a while.  You will figure out what works best for the target and distance you are shooting.  What ammo are you using and what barrel length?  I can generate a chart for you in Strelok+ and post it specific to that reticle and the zero you want to use.  Yes, the software has the ability to show holdover points for just about any reticle out there from any major manufacturer.  You might want to get some firm of inexpensive ballistic software and play with it, as that is a good way to learn what your bullet will do without wasting a lot of ammo, and then can use the ammo efficiently to develop shooting skill.

Unfortunately  I have several different ammo.
1. PMC 55gr XTAC green tip Xp193, PMC 62 GR 5.56k Nato Lap, Wally world bulk Federal 55gr Bp223BL, American Eagle 55gr Ae223bl.

I have a 16" barrel

Anyone tell me a decent ballistic software that I can get with computer base and Droid app?

I used to have Cold bore but it was for a Pda.

Anyone have experience with Bullet flight military version?
They have 3 versions the most expensive is the military for 29.99

Strelok for android

So, OP:  I played with Strelok+ a bit.  I put in variables that would closely (but not exactly) approximate a 55 grain FMJ M193 load fired from a 16" carbine barrel, and used a typical scope height above the bore.  There are other variables, such as temperature that can have an effect, but this can give you an idea of the capabilities.

I chose a 100 yard zero and used the Leupold Firedot SPR reticle choice and set the zero for 100 yards.  I assumed the same type of turrets and adjustments (Milrad).  Since the scope is second focal plane, ranges are accurate only at 4x.  So, that is what I used.   Here is what I came up with.  Does this look like your reticle?  The ranges are not going to be exact, but might be close enough for you to try at the range.   You zero for 100 yards, and then keep the turrets set on zero.  Do not move them.   Then see if the hold overs are close to what this reticle is suggesting.

What surprised me is that your friend and Leupold may be onto something with the SPR reticle and its usefulness out to 300 yards with a 100 yard zero.  Note how the dot is on at 100, the first vertical hash mark is almost exactly on at 200 (211), and the circle is almost exactly on at 300 (294)  Sort of cool, for that use. It goes to hell after that, however with no clear correlation between hash marks and any "round number" range.

Remember, now, this is an approximation.  "Your mileage may vary" and probably will.

I remain of the view, however, that if you are going to use the weapon tactically, and not just to shoot precision shots at paper, the 50/250 zero and use of the turrets for come ups might be better.  But if you are more comfortable using the reticle for ranging, give it a try.

Oh, and get Strlok+ for Android. That's what I used to generate the charts in this thread.  It is dirt cheap.  Not saying it is the best or anything like that, but it works for me.  I  believe I paid something like $12-13 for the full bells and whistles version.

Thank you very. Very cool

I downloaded Strelok Pro. Awesome program. Seems it has all info in one package even with converters. Any other apps people would recommend that Strelok doesn't cover that I may need?
Anyone have a link to a manual or guide that covers it use? I am sure some of you guys know all that stuff like the back of your hand but it's all new to me. Thanks for all your help

Ok maybe I am confusing holdover with the target distance. I must not be setting up the program correctly as I can not duplicate what Leupold says is the holdovers for this scope. In addition the holdovers they give in the manual is are only for max magnification? If scope is dialed back to 1 that changes the hold overs? I guess being 2nd focal plane a 2 meter target looks different in 1 power and 4, Would the numbers stay constant ie if a target height is 1 meter in 1 power it would look 4 meters in 4 power? I plan on making a life size target and glassing a bit at different distances but waiting on a few things.

You have to go back to your "zero" setting for your holdovers to be correct. With a SFP scope, you also have to be on your highest(4x) setting for you holdovers to he correct. Say you have to make a shot that requires 4 mils up. You can either holdover 4 mils using the subtensions in your reticle(scope needs to be on 4x) or you can dial in the correction 4 mils and use the center crosshair/dot(scope can be on any magnification). Hope I'm making sense?

This is one reason why FFP scopes are popular since it doesn't matter what mag you are on. They are also useful in ranging targets on any mag setting. I come from the school of thought that any scope under 10x doesn't require FFP because you will be on your highest mag if shooting/ranging at distances that require a holdover.

Holdovers have their place but I personally prefer to dial in my correction since its more precise.

Excellent advice here ^.

I'll add a couple thoughts.   The Leupld manual does not specify what zero to use to match the SPR chart in the manual (Table 9).  I'd have to input various zero points to try to replicate that.  Leupold should have said what zero to use with that chart.  They did not.  

I used a 100 yard zero for purposes of the hold overs I posted above for the SPR reticle.  I used my own 3" maximum above line of sight for the "come up" data charts posted earlier.  Those are different and are intended for use with the turrets only and with a zero very close to the 50/250 combat zero.  Changing the zero changes significantly how the SPR reticle subtensions relate to range.

I've not done it for your scope, but try changing to a 50 yard zero in Strelok+ and see what that looks like for your reticle.   But, if you are trying to keep it simple for 100, 200 and 300 with the dot, the first subtension mark and the circle, respectively, with M193, that seems to match use of a 100 yard zero.

I agree with Hydra-shoks, that it is better to use a combat zero and use the reticle only for close up work, and use "come up" data to dial in the correction with elevation turret when shooting out beyond 300.  At some point, you will shoot far enough out to need to do the same thing for wind changes.   It is for that purpose I use my reticle and leave my windage turret alone.   That is beyond the purpose of this thread and reasonable people dope and adjust for wind in different ways.

I wish we were close to each other.  This is easier to show someone than to try to explain it in writing.  Once you see it, you'll say ah-ha, yes, it makes sense.  

But, until you get the hang of milrad, use the reticle and a 100 yard zero.  For those points to be right, you MUST have the scope set on 4x.   That's where most people would have a scope set for target work anyway.   When you go to milrad correction with the elevation turret, magnification becomes irrelevant, you can use any magnification you want.   But to use the marks in the reticle, they only work for a specific magnification, in this case 4x for the data I have supplied.

If the Leupy reticle is mildot and not BDC, a 50yd zero is going to work best.

It is milrad, but not mildot.  Subtension marks are milrad.  Turrets are milrad, .1 mil per click, 6 mils per rotation.
.

What's the difference? As long as the reticle matches the turrets it doesn't matter.

Milrads or MOA, just different numbers.

Can you give me screen shots of all the settings? I haven't been able to get close to Leupold's Holdovers. Did you have zero wind and it shows aiming point to be off to the left. Spin drift?

You might find this of some use.

http://www.jbmballistics.com/ballistics/calculators/calculators.shtml

I agree, its just that his reticle has hash or tick marks but not dots.  They are, however calibrated according to the milling system.  I've been corrected when calling the SPR or TMR Leupold reticles mildot.  Sorry for any unnecessary over precise nomenclature.  No offense intended.

CORRECTION:  This chart was incorrect.  I entered the wrong muzzle velocity data.  It does not work out to be 211 or 294 at the hash and circle.  My apologies.  It does work out closer to Leupold's Table 9.  I will post corrected chart in a post below with screenshots of the program menu tabs.

Leupold's Table 9 is for SS109 M855 62 grain ammo from a 16" barrel at 2800 fps.  Inputting the M855 BC and that velocity and a 100 yard zero, produces the following, which does differ a little from their chart.



Compared to Table 9 from Leupold, here.  Similar, but clearly different.  Altitude and temperature have some effect, and I don't know what they used.

Can you post screen shots of all your settings? I cant even get close to Leupold's hold overs for the spr reticle

Obviously  there is a misprint as it shows 550 Meters  at 2 different lines

No offense taken. I wasn't trying to come across that way.

This, they cost a good amount of money but you send them your dope chart and they make you a custom marked turret.

edit: full auto without a tax stamp, double post

Here are the screen shots.  No particular order. These are the main ones.  There are submenus, but this should serve to show you the basics and how to navigate the software.  Note that I am at 200 feet altitude and used a 10 mph crosswind for the horizontal data.  That does not affect vertical drop.  Do you have a chrono?  That will help you fine tune.  Note, if you are shooting 55 grain M193 or equivalent, your drop will be close but will differ, because of lower BC, but higher MV.  I'm here just trying to replicate the Leupold chart for its use of the M855.