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Posted: 5/21/2017 9:04:05 PM EDT
[#1]
Quoted:
How big of a job is an EGR delete on a Ford 6.0L? I've been running mine a little bit harder lately, and have decided to get a few things done to make it more reliable down the road. Its an '07 with 92k trouble free miles, and is completely stock. My plan is to do an EGR delete, coolant filter, 4" straight pipe to get rid of cat and muffler (should keep EGT's lower), and gauges to monitor everything. I've read a few articles on the EGR delete, and it doesn't seem too bad....but youtube videos make it look a lot more complicated. I have reasonable mechanical skills, but don't want to get in over my head. Suggestions? It's really not bad. Call it an 8-10 hour job for a novice. Where are you at on GA? I can direct you to some reputable shops as well. But if you want to tackle it yourself, don't feel deterred. ETA- make sure you own a set of quality metric ratchet wrenches, and a set of box end metric half moon wrenches for the up pipes. |
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Posted: 5/21/2017 9:12:58 PM EDT
[#2]
Where are you at on GA? I can direct you to some reputable shops as well. But if you want to tackle it yourself, don't feel deterred.
ETA- make sure you own a set of quality metric ratchet wrenches, and a set of box end metric half moon wrenches for the up pipes. |
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Posted: 5/21/2017 9:16:48 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'm about 35 miles NE of Macon/ Tools aren't the problem. Any recommendations on a delete kit? Seems there are quite a few out there to choose from. Also, what are your opinions on the blue spring upgrade kit for the fuel system? |
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Posted: 5/21/2017 9:19:47 PM EDT
[#4]
Cruising down the street in my six-oh.
Blowing EGRs and spending some dough. 
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Posted: 5/21/2017 9:29:49 PM EDT
[#5]
I used the sinister kit, do the oil cooler while you're there also.
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Posted: 5/21/2017 9:30:39 PM EDT
[#6]
Don't use sinister anything. They exist in this market solely by ripping off the real innovators.
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Posted: 5/21/2017 9:32:41 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Don't use sinister anything. They exist in this market solely by ripping off the real innovators. |
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Posted: 5/21/2017 9:35:10 PM EDT
[#8]
Not even their coolant filter kit? |
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Posted: 5/21/2017 9:35:13 PM EDT
[#9]
Their quality is low end to mediocre and they rip everything (and I mean everything) off of other companies. Second worst in the whole industry.
Buy this instead. |
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Posted: 5/21/2017 9:35:33 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Don't use sinister anything. They exist in this market solely by ripping off the real innovators. |
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Posted: 5/21/2017 9:36:59 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Genuine question, why not? I've installed 3 sinister delete kits and never had any issues. I know you've probably done and seen more, so what's the issue with them? My biggest issue is that they are fucking pirates. Quality isn't great. It's not the worst, but not good either. If anyone truly knew how much intellectual property they rip off from others, no one would purchase an o-ring from them. |
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Posted: 5/21/2017 9:40:26 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
My biggest issue is that they are fucking pirates. Quality isn't great. It's not the worst, but not good either. If anyone truly knew how much intellectual property they rip off from others, no one would purchase an o-ring from them. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Genuine question, why not? I've installed 3 sinister delete kits and never had any issues. I know you've probably done and seen more, so what's the issue with them? My biggest issue is that they are fucking pirates. Quality isn't great. It's not the worst, but not good either. If anyone truly knew how much intellectual property they rip off from others, no one would purchase an o-ring from them. I've never heard of river city, thanks for the heads up. |
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Posted: 5/21/2017 9:48:34 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Gotcha, this was back in 07/08 I think. I did use a dieselsite coolant filtration system, thoughts? I've never heard of river city, thanks for the heads up. |
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Posted: 5/21/2017 9:54:34 PM EDT
[#14]
If anyone truly knew how much intellectual property they rip off from others, no one would purchase an o-ring from them. |
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Posted: 5/21/2017 9:58:48 PM EDT
[#15]
I have deleted a 6.0, it wasnt that bad of a job. Does the 07 need the delete? I thought the late ones were a better egr cooler that wouldnt fail.
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Posted: 5/21/2017 10:01:17 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I have deleted a 6.0, it wasnt that bad of a job. Does the 07 need the delete? I thought the late ones were a better egr cooler that wouldnt fail. |
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Posted: 5/21/2017 10:03:16 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Sounds like it should be easy enough to litigate, especially if patent infringement is happening/happened. Don't quote me on this, but I believe they have. Many of the companies who they've done that to have been a little to small to bother or afford it. |
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Posted: 5/21/2017 10:04:01 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Good question...would certainly save me a lot of trouble! |
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Posted: 5/21/2017 10:08:01 PM EDT
[#19]
It is less likely to fail. If it isn't leaking now, I might be inclined to leave it until it is. Considering how high truck prices are getting, though, I want to make sure I can keep this one as long as possible. |
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Posted: 5/21/2017 10:09:35 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Their quality is low end to mediocre and they rip everything (and I mean everything) off of other companies. Second worst in the whole industry. Buy this instead. |
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Posted: 5/21/2017 10:10:58 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I've seen no evidence that it is leaking now, but honestly not sure where I would even check. I do know that two weeks ago, I hauled two loads at a GCVW of 29,400 and 30,600lbs over 100 miles...and the truck ran great (and got 9.9mpg hand calculated to boot). Considering how high truck prices are getting, though, I want to make sure I can keep this one as long as possible. |
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Posted: 5/21/2017 10:12:02 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That looks almost identical to the Sinister coolant filter setup. Exactly my point. Care to guess which company had one on the market first? |
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Posted: 5/21/2017 10:12:23 PM EDT
[#23]
Its a pretty easy job i would recommend doing the oil cooler while you have the turbo off and upgrade the spring for the fuel.
Ive done a lot of deletes on the 6.0 and I've never had any issues with sinister diesel products buy with confidence if youre jist doing deletes and not going all oit performance just get an sct xcal for the tune as a diyer you should set aside a saturday to get the job done |
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Posted: 5/21/2017 11:08:14 PM EDT
[#24]
Its a pretty easy job i would recommend doing the oil cooler while you have the turbo off and upgrade the spring for the fuel. |
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Posted: 5/21/2017 11:13:10 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thought about doing the oil cooler as well, how much complexity does it add to the job? |
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Posted: 5/22/2017 12:10:26 AM EDT
[#26]
Isn't sinister the company that charges like 3xs for stuff that's identical to cheaper stuff?
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Posted: 5/22/2017 12:24:33 AM EDT
[#27]
Spartandieseltech, I think we talked on the phone previously. When my 2014 6.7 runs out of warranty, I'm bringing it to you. No, I will never drive it in CA.
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Posted: 5/22/2017 12:40:52 AM EDT
[#28]
IPR gen2 delete is best bar none. Do the stc fitting, oil cooler, and coolant flush while you're at it. Don't put Ford gold back in. Get some zerex ec-1 concentrate from napa. You'll need a tune to turn off the CEL.
Pull the egr valve and check for any dampness to see if you've got an egr leak. It should be dry. Not a good sign if it's gooey. Took me 2 days to do mine. First time to do it and worked alone. Wasn't hard just time consuming. |
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Posted: 5/22/2017 12:45:21 AM EDT
[#29]
The oil cooler and/or a bad degas bottle cap (radiator cap) are the things that cause the EGR cooler to go bad. The EGR cooler leaking is a symptom of these.
If you don't have an EGR cooler to go bad (deleted), or some way to monitor oil temp, you could smoke your engine because of a restricted oil cooler. An EGR cooler leaking has saved many engines from more serious damage. |
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Posted: 5/22/2017 12:50:48 AM EDT
[#30]
Just reading, trying to get a grasp of the 6.0 (and a possible future diesel purchase, so have no real world means to determine fact from forum hack advertising.
My humble understanding is that the core of the 6.0 problem is heat. While the delete helps performance, getting rid of the egr cooler helps with the heat problem (besides helping the system by not dealing with coloring the egr gasses, the cooler can clog and screw up coolant flow. Separating the oil cooler from the engine coolant system likewise does the same (less to cool and removes a potential coolant restriction. Seems to me that studding is simply trying to address a symptom rather than e underlying causes. (A likely sinerio I read was oil cooler restricted coolant flow to egr cooler. Restricted flow caused coolant to flash vaporize in egr cooler, leaving restrictive deposits, quickly further reducing flow. Now you have hot oil and nonexistent engine coolant-of course heads fail. I am am not sure if bypassing the egr cooler is part of a normal delete. ---- i wanted an Excursion, but if I add the cost of fully bulletproofing one, and look at the after tax write off of a new super duty-The new truck starts looking a lot less expensive (Excursion would be a man toy, Superduty would be a business vehicle). |
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Posted: 5/22/2017 9:46:28 AM EDT
[#31]
The oil cooler and/or a bad degas bottle cap (radiator cap) are the things that cause the EGR cooler to go bad. The EGR cooler leaking is a symptom of these. If you don't have an EGR cooler to go bad (deleted), or some way to monitor oil temp, you could smoke your engine because of a restricted oil cooler. An EGR cooler leaking has saved many engines from more serious damage. |
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Posted: 5/22/2017 9:55:24 AM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Sounds like I may be better off leaving it as is.... And THIS is where I am. For the last 12 years. Have a pair of '05 6.0s. Both had EGR issues, under warranty, one at 30K and one at 70K and no issues with either truck since. Both between 150 and 180k now. |
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Posted: 5/22/2017 10:52:23 AM EDT
[#33]
Just bought an 04 6.0 & the one thing I'm going to do is change the oil cooler & then flush and switch coolant type.
It seems to be the root cause for all the other common issues |
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Posted: 5/22/2017 11:35:28 AM EDT
[#34]
Don't use Ford Anti-freeze and you won't need a coolant filter at all.
Edit: Ford Anti-freeze is the wrong spec for all their engines, period. It's just cheaper for them to use their universal orange across the board, from the factory pretty much. Drain, flush, fill with Final Charge 50/50 pre-mix and you'll be good to go. Edit 2: Run a engine oil systems cleaner and a synthetic blend 15w40 such as Kendall Super D-XA or Chevron Delo XLE. Your oil cooler will be good for a long time. |
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Posted: 5/22/2017 11:49:31 AM EDT
[#35]
Super duty service has an upgraded intake and up pipes that is about the best kit I've seen there a bit pricy tho and you still need a tuner you might as well do an oil cooler while your that far in
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Posted: 5/22/2017 11:58:07 AM EDT
[#36]
The '06/'07 models have all the factory revisions in place, these mods are not needed if the owner is doing their part, which includes:
-Changing the Ford Gold coolant at 50K per Ford's TSB (gelling problems = clogs otherwise). A good initial flush will get rid of any casting flash. A switch to ELC is recommended. -Use Ford's fuel lube to make up for lack of lubrication in ULSD fuel = increases injector life. I have over 130K on our '06 and its only need $28 in repairs, a $4 fuel pressure regulator o-ring at 75K, and a $24 water in fuel sensor at 120K, took 5 minutes each to swap out. If you start running tunes, etc then you'll start having problems costing you more money. |
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Posted: 5/22/2017 12:09:46 PM EDT
[#37]
I did my 04 a couple of years ago. For OEM parts I use Autonationfordwhitebearlake.com. Significant savings over local dealers. They are very good on the phone and will send you parts info and diagrams if you need them. I replaced my EGR cooler with a Bulletproof one and did the blue spring and turbo pipe upgrades. Lots of parts so I just lined them up in the truck bed in order and reassembly was very easy. Didn't need any special tools other than a six sided 10mm wrench, the twelve was trying to round the bolt head. On the 04 you can just disconnect the EGR valve and the engine light will not illuminate. I recommend upgrading the oil cooler and be sure to use lint free rags when cleaning out the valley where the oil cooler sits.
The biggest improvement for my truck was running synthetic oil instead of dino. Original owner and no problems with 6.0. |
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Posted: 5/22/2017 12:18:44 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The '06/'07 models have all the factory revisions in place, these mods are not needed if the owner is doing their part, which includes: -Changing the Ford Gold coolant at 50K per Ford's TSB (gelling problems = clogs otherwise). A good initial flush will get rid of any casting flash. A switch to ELC is recommended. -Use Ford's fuel lube to make up for lack of lubrication in ULSD fuel = increases injector life. I have over 130K on our '06 and its only need $28 in repairs, a $4 fuel pressure regulator o-ring at 75K, and a $24 water in fuel sensor at 120K, took 5 minutes each to swap out. If you start running tunes, etc then you'll start having problems costing you more money. we're trading it in, in 3 months.... our 6.7's have been good.... not great! But good. |
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Posted: 5/22/2017 7:00:34 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Sounds like I may be better off leaving it as is.... ~ 18 year Ford diesel tech. |
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Posted: 5/22/2017 7:13:02 PM EDT
[#40]
Do you have a scan gauge?
I think the tell for when to rip it apart is when the coolant temp and oil temp under normal operation are regularly 16 degrees or more apart. Mine jumps from 2-15 just cruising around depending on the ambient temp outside, towing the oil temp jumps up on the hills, but drops down quickly after a big pull. I am the type that falls back to "If it's not broke, don't fix it". I don't plan on doing anything more than regular maintenance and fixing things that break as they come up (and replacing anything that might have to get removed as part of that particular fix) |
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Posted: 5/22/2017 7:14:23 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Definitely replace the Degas cap. That is the actual root cause of most 6.0 cooling system issues. It's not a coolant problem, it is the fact that the degas caps go bad and can't keep the system pressurized. Most people, including technicians, don't think about testing the cap. ~ 18 year Ford diesel tech. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Sounds like I may be better off leaving it as is.... ~ 18 year Ford diesel tech. |
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Posted: 5/22/2017 7:27:23 PM EDT
[#42]
When my egr shit the bed and took out my head gaskets I had a new OEM upgraded oil cooler, ARP studs, sinister delete installed. Cost me $3k. Kinda north for you though in Ballground.
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Posted: 5/22/2017 8:10:58 PM EDT
[#43]
I did that the first week I had my current work truck. You could crack the cap shortly after a trip and not get any pressure. The new one I can leave it sitting for two days and crack it open and still have a ton of pressure shoot out. |
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Posted: 5/22/2017 8:21:12 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
How long should the cap hold pressure? Quote HistoryQuoted:
I did that the first week I had my current work truck. You could crack the cap shortly after a trip and not get any pressure. The new one I can leave it sitting for two days and crack it open and still have a ton of pressure shoot out. |
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Posted: 5/22/2017 10:31:18 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just bought an 04 6.0 & the one thing I'm going to do is change the oil cooler & then flush and switch coolant type. It seems to be the root cause for all the other common issues |
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Posted: 5/22/2017 10:34:33 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I did that the first week I had my current work truck. You could crack the cap shortly after a trip and not get any pressure. The new one I can leave it sitting for two days and crack it open and still have a ton of pressure shoot out. |
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Posted: 5/22/2017 10:35:50 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Don't use Ford Anti-freeze and you won't need a coolant filter at all. Edit: Ford Anti-freeze is the wrong spec for all their engines, period. It's just cheaper for them to use their universal orange across the board, from the factory pretty much. Drain, flush, fill with Final Charge 50/50 pre-mix and you'll be good to go. Edit 2: Run a engine oil systems cleaner and a synthetic blend 15w40 such as Kendall Super D-XA or Chevron Delo XLE. Your oil cooler will be good for a long time. pre diluted is for topping off and drain and fill (no flushing with gallons upon gallons of water). |
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Posted: 5/22/2017 10:42:07 PM EDT
[#48]
FPNI
Just did mine with a friends help, 9 hour job. |
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Posted: 5/22/2017 10:43:26 PM EDT
[#49]
ETA: Consider purchasing a good tuner, such as a CTS-2 made by Edge. It is crucial to monitor your engine vitals.
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Posted: 5/22/2017 10:59:11 PM EDT
[#50]
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