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Posted: 5/28/2016 11:53:06 AM EDT
Well I am having the same issue in 2 of my cars. The A/c work great, ice cold, on start up and will run good for about 30mins or until highway speeds are hit. After that it starts to get warm and musty smelling then just plain hot. I have hooked up gauges while it is operating properly (looks great) and during the issue. Once it stops working the low side reads about 70psi and the high about 100-150.
I am thinking there may be a blockage in the condensor. Anyone have some advice? |
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[#1]
evaporator is icing up
If you have a cabin air filter replace it and check the drain line to make sure it not plunged up as well "the musty smell may be water trapped in the vent system not draining". |
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[#2]
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[#3]
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Agree. Have you tampered with or worked on either system in any way OP? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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evaporator is icing up Have you tampered with or worked on either system in any way OP? No they are bone stock as far as I know. What would cause them to ice up? ETA: cabin filter on the civic was changed, my jeep does not have one. |
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[#4]
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No they are bone stock as far as I know. What would cause them to ice up? ETA: cabin filter on the civic was changed, my jeep does not have one. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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evaporator is icing up Have you tampered with or worked on either system in any way OP? No they are bone stock as far as I know. What would cause them to ice up? ETA: cabin filter on the civic was changed, my jeep does not have one. Check the drain line under the cars. The newer ones have a crappy valve to keep dirt out and plug up easy then back up water in the system causing the condenser to get wet and freeze up. Just cut the end off if it is plunged up at the end if not take low air PSI like 15 to 20 lbs and blow in the drain line it dont take much to loosen up the clog and get the water flowing out.. Had the same problem years ago with a dodge van until i unclogged the drain line. |
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[#5]
Quoted:
Check the drain line under the cars. The newer ones have a crappy valve to keep dirt out and plug up easy then back up water in the system causing the condenser to get wet and freeze up. Just cut the end off if it is plunged up at the end if not take low air PSI like 15 to 20 lbs and blow in the drain line it dont take much to loosen up the clog and get the water flowing out.. Had the same problem years ago with a dodge van until i unclogged the drain line. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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evaporator is icing up Have you tampered with or worked on either system in any way OP? No they are bone stock as far as I know. What would cause them to ice up? ETA: cabin filter on the civic was changed, my jeep does not have one. Check the drain line under the cars. The newer ones have a crappy valve to keep dirt out and plug up easy then back up water in the system causing the condenser to get wet and freeze up. Just cut the end off if it is plunged up at the end if not take low air PSI like 15 to 20 lbs and blow in the drain line it dont take much to loosen up the clog and get the water flowing out.. Had the same problem years ago with a dodge van until i unclogged the drain line. The jeep had water coming out of the drain but I blew it out anyways and got a little surge of water. I was reading that the expansion clave could be an issue as well. Only time will tell I guess. Now, on to the civic. |
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[#6]
Could be evaporator icing up, which is typically caused from a partially undercharged system. It could also be caused by a sticking expansion valve on the Honda, but on the jeep, they normally don't have one, they have orifice tubes. Hondas are also prone to failures of the clutch coils inside the a/c clutch when they get hot. If they have never been serviced, and the vehicles are more than a few years old, they are likely undercharged. R134a has a small molecule compared to R12(used before 1994), and you will lose some refrigerant over time, even in a good, sealed, mobile system thru the hoses. When your vehicle only holds a pound or a little more total, it wont take much to cause an undercharge and icing.
Now to fix it, it needs evacuating and a recharge. Topping off wont correct the issue and may make it worse. Here is why, and don't expect the auto parts stores to understand this. A lot of the stuff the stores sell have no place in vehicles, as they have sealers in them that will only plug up the system. You also have to contend with air and moisture contamination that migrates into the system over time(verified over the years with a refrigerant identifier), that causes corrosion, internal icing and reduced performance. Best bet, take it to a shop that has a modern, digital machine that will accurately charge the vehicle, and a guy who knows how to use it. This means no jiffy lube,etc |
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[#7]
Sounds like the Jeep was partially clogged up.
Do the cheap stuff first before you throw $ at the problem. |
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[#8]
Check the air gap on the AC compressor clutch it may be to wide and won't engage when the vehicle is up to operating temp . Easy cheap fix easy to diagnose . Google it or pm me I will tell you if you can't figure it out
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[#9]
Took the jeep for a quick ride. Its still going hot once I get up to speed. no more musty warning though.
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[#11]
Quoted:
Could be evaporator icing up, which is typically caused from a partially undercharged system. It could also be caused by a sticking expansion valve on the Honda, but on the jeep, they normally don't have one, they have orifice tubes. Hondas are also prone to failures of the clutch coils inside the a/c clutch when they get hot. If they have never been serviced, and the vehicles are more than a few years old, they are likely undercharged. R134a has a small molecule compared to R12(used before 1994), and you will lose some refrigerant over time, even in a good, sealed, mobile system thru the hoses. When your vehicle only holds a pound or a little more total, it wont take much to cause an undercharge and icing. Now to fix it, it needs evacuating and a recharge. Topping off wont correct the issue and may make it worse. Here is why, and don't expect the auto parts stores to understand this. A lot of the stuff the stores sell have no place in vehicles, as they have sealers in them that will only plug up the system. You also have to contend with air and moisture contamination that migrates into the system over time(verified over the years with a refrigerant identifier), that causes corrosion, internal icing and reduced performance. Best bet, take it to a shop that has a modern, digital machine that will accurately charge the vehicle, and a guy who knows how to use it. This means no jiffy lube,etc View Quote You could do it yourself if you go to AutoZone and rent a vacuum pump. Look for the sticker that shows how much 134 your car uses and recharge it yourself. |
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[#12]
Quoted:
Check the air gap on the AC compressor clutch it may be to wide and won't engage when the vehicle is up to operating temp . Easy cheap fix easy to diagnose . Google it or pm me I will tell you if you can't figure it out View Quote IM sent. I think there may be another issue. I was slowing down and noticed it got warm then I got back on the gas and the clutch was able to grab and cool it down again. I pulled into the drive way the clutch shut off and the car got warm again. Then clutch will not engage without letting the car sit shut off for a few minutes. I start it back up and the clutch engages. The Low line gets very warm during the "off period". |
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[#13]
I'm starting to think that it could be one of my pressure switches on the jeep, any mechanics out there that could pull specs on the switches? I'd like to ohm them out or try to run a test on them. It seems the pressure spikes on the jeep when hitting the throttle and instead of cutting the compressor off it allows the pressure to go so high the safety switch kicks in and kills the compressor. After a cool down period the A/c will begin to work again and the pressure goes back to normal. (I was actually able to watch the pressure normalize once the compressor came on).
ETA: when I hit the throttle body the a/c clutch shuts down right away, the higher the rpms I go the higher the pressure continues to build. |
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[#14]
I think I found the problem, my charge is low as hell even after doing a proper evac and recharge. I filled it with the specified amount and my refrigerant was stupid low. I have a leak somewhere. Now to find it. I'm glad I put that UV dye in with the recharge.
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[#15]
Quoted:
You could do it yourself if you go to AutoZone and rent a vacuum pump. Look for the sticker that shows how much 134 your car uses and recharge it yourself. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Could be evaporator icing up, which is typically caused from a partially undercharged system. It could also be caused by a sticking expansion valve on the Honda, but on the jeep, they normally don't have one, they have orifice tubes. Hondas are also prone to failures of the clutch coils inside the a/c clutch when they get hot. If they have never been serviced, and the vehicles are more than a few years old, they are likely undercharged. R134a has a small molecule compared to R12(used before 1994), and you will lose some refrigerant over time, even in a good, sealed, mobile system thru the hoses. When your vehicle only holds a pound or a little more total, it wont take much to cause an undercharge and icing. Now to fix it, it needs evacuating and a recharge. Topping off wont correct the issue and may make it worse. Here is why, and don't expect the auto parts stores to understand this. A lot of the stuff the stores sell have no place in vehicles, as they have sealers in them that will only plug up the system. You also have to contend with air and moisture contamination that migrates into the system over time(verified over the years with a refrigerant identifier), that causes corrosion, internal icing and reduced performance. Best bet, take it to a shop that has a modern, digital machine that will accurately charge the vehicle, and a guy who knows how to use it. This means no jiffy lube,etc You could do it yourself if you go to AutoZone and rent a vacuum pump. Look for the sticker that shows how much 134 your car uses and recharge it yourself. DON"T FORGET THE OIL CHARGE!!! You can buy cans of refrigerant with the oil in it, but make sure you get the right amount total into the system. not too much - not too little. |
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[#16]
Quoted:
DON"T FORGET THE OIL CHARGE!!! You can buy cans of refrigerant with the oil in it, but make sure you get the right amount total into the system. not too much - not too little. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Could be evaporator icing up, which is typically caused from a partially undercharged system. It could also be caused by a sticking expansion valve on the Honda, but on the jeep, they normally don't have one, they have orifice tubes. Hondas are also prone to failures of the clutch coils inside the a/c clutch when they get hot. If they have never been serviced, and the vehicles are more than a few years old, they are likely undercharged. R134a has a small molecule compared to R12(used before 1994), and you will lose some refrigerant over time, even in a good, sealed, mobile system thru the hoses. When your vehicle only holds a pound or a little more total, it wont take much to cause an undercharge and icing. Now to fix it, it needs evacuating and a recharge. Topping off wont correct the issue and may make it worse. Here is why, and don't expect the auto parts stores to understand this. A lot of the stuff the stores sell have no place in vehicles, as they have sealers in them that will only plug up the system. You also have to contend with air and moisture contamination that migrates into the system over time(verified over the years with a refrigerant identifier), that causes corrosion, internal icing and reduced performance. Best bet, take it to a shop that has a modern, digital machine that will accurately charge the vehicle, and a guy who knows how to use it. This means no jiffy lube,etc You could do it yourself if you go to AutoZone and rent a vacuum pump. Look for the sticker that shows how much 134 your car uses and recharge it yourself. DON"T FORGET THE OIL CHARGE!!! You can buy cans of refrigerant with the oil in it, but make sure you get the right amount total into the system. not too much - not too little. I got cans with oil in it but I can't find anything at all that tells you how much oil to add with the freon for either of my vehicles. Only the amount of oil to put into a new compressor. |
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[#17]
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I got cans with oil in it but I can't find anything at all that tells you how much oil to add with the freon for either of my vehicles. Only the amount of oil to put into a new compressor. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Could be evaporator icing up, which is typically caused from a partially undercharged system. It could also be caused by a sticking expansion valve on the Honda, but on the jeep, they normally don't have one, they have orifice tubes. Hondas are also prone to failures of the clutch coils inside the a/c clutch when they get hot. If they have never been serviced, and the vehicles are more than a few years old, they are likely undercharged. R134a has a small molecule compared to R12(used before 1994), and you will lose some refrigerant over time, even in a good, sealed, mobile system thru the hoses. When your vehicle only holds a pound or a little more total, it wont take much to cause an undercharge and icing. Now to fix it, it needs evacuating and a recharge. Topping off wont correct the issue and may make it worse. Here is why, and don't expect the auto parts stores to understand this. A lot of the stuff the stores sell have no place in vehicles, as they have sealers in them that will only plug up the system. You also have to contend with air and moisture contamination that migrates into the system over time(verified over the years with a refrigerant identifier), that causes corrosion, internal icing and reduced performance. Best bet, take it to a shop that has a modern, digital machine that will accurately charge the vehicle, and a guy who knows how to use it. This means no jiffy lube,etc You could do it yourself if you go to AutoZone and rent a vacuum pump. Look for the sticker that shows how much 134 your car uses and recharge it yourself. DON"T FORGET THE OIL CHARGE!!! You can buy cans of refrigerant with the oil in it, but make sure you get the right amount total into the system. not too much - not too little. I got cans with oil in it but I can't find anything at all that tells you how much oil to add with the freon for either of my vehicles. Only the amount of oil to put into a new compressor. I wouldn't add oil. Unless you have a massive leak or replace the accumulator you'll just be adding excessive oil. When you're charging the system, you should really watch the high side. The low side is regulated by the pressure switch (orifice) or TXV. A good rule of thumb is the high side pressure should be ~ 3 to 3.2 x ambient temperature. So if it's 80°F out, then you're looking for 240-250 psi. At 90° high side should be 270 - 290 psi. And be sure to have a good fan blowing on the condenser or else pressures will go crazy. |
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[#18]
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I got cans with oil in it but I can't find anything at all that tells you how much oil to add with the freon for either of my vehicles. Only the amount of oil to put into a new compressor. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Could be evaporator icing up, which is typically caused from a partially undercharged system. It could also be caused by a sticking expansion valve on the Honda, but on the jeep, they normally don't have one, they have orifice tubes. Hondas are also prone to failures of the clutch coils inside the a/c clutch when they get hot. If they have never been serviced, and the vehicles are more than a few years old, they are likely undercharged. R134a has a small molecule compared to R12(used before 1994), and you will lose some refrigerant over time, even in a good, sealed, mobile system thru the hoses. When your vehicle only holds a pound or a little more total, it wont take much to cause an undercharge and icing. Now to fix it, it needs evacuating and a recharge. Topping off wont correct the issue and may make it worse. Here is why, and don't expect the auto parts stores to understand this. A lot of the stuff the stores sell have no place in vehicles, as they have sealers in them that will only plug up the system. You also have to contend with air and moisture contamination that migrates into the system over time(verified over the years with a refrigerant identifier), that causes corrosion, internal icing and reduced performance. Best bet, take it to a shop that has a modern, digital machine that will accurately charge the vehicle, and a guy who knows how to use it. This means no jiffy lube,etc You could do it yourself if you go to AutoZone and rent a vacuum pump. Look for the sticker that shows how much 134 your car uses and recharge it yourself. DON"T FORGET THE OIL CHARGE!!! You can buy cans of refrigerant with the oil in it, but make sure you get the right amount total into the system. not too much - not too little. I got cans with oil in it but I can't find anything at all that tells you how much oil to add with the freon for either of my vehicles. Only the amount of oil to put into a new compressor. You are supposed to add the quantity that you recover out with the old charge. I usually add 10% or so due to leakage (judgement call). |
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[#19]
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You are supposed to add the quantity that you recover out with the old charge. I usually add 10% or so due to leakage (judgement call). View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Could be evaporator icing up, which is typically caused from a partially undercharged system. It could also be caused by a sticking expansion valve on the Honda, but on the jeep, they normally don't have one, they have orifice tubes. Hondas are also prone to failures of the clutch coils inside the a/c clutch when they get hot. If they have never been serviced, and the vehicles are more than a few years old, they are likely undercharged. R134a has a small molecule compared to R12(used before 1994), and you will lose some refrigerant over time, even in a good, sealed, mobile system thru the hoses. When your vehicle only holds a pound or a little more total, it wont take much to cause an undercharge and icing. Now to fix it, it needs evacuating and a recharge. Topping off wont correct the issue and may make it worse. Here is why, and don't expect the auto parts stores to understand this. A lot of the stuff the stores sell have no place in vehicles, as they have sealers in them that will only plug up the system. You also have to contend with air and moisture contamination that migrates into the system over time(verified over the years with a refrigerant identifier), that causes corrosion, internal icing and reduced performance. Best bet, take it to a shop that has a modern, digital machine that will accurately charge the vehicle, and a guy who knows how to use it. This means no jiffy lube,etc You could do it yourself if you go to AutoZone and rent a vacuum pump. Look for the sticker that shows how much 134 your car uses and recharge it yourself. DON"T FORGET THE OIL CHARGE!!! You can buy cans of refrigerant with the oil in it, but make sure you get the right amount total into the system. not too much - not too little. I got cans with oil in it but I can't find anything at all that tells you how much oil to add with the freon for either of my vehicles. Only the amount of oil to put into a new compressor. You are supposed to add the quantity that you recover out with the old charge. I usually add 10% or so due to leakage (judgement call). Yeah, but his Jeep probably only holds around 8 oz of oil, so squirting a couple of ounces or more will be an over charge. Unless you can see a lot of oily residue you're probably not low and should skip it. |
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