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Posted: 5/21/2015 11:39:38 AM EDT
[#1]
Use only motorcraft oil and change every 5k. Change the fuel filters every other oil change.
Worked for me so far and I haven't done any of the recommended upgrades. |
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Posted: 5/21/2015 11:41:06 AM EDT
[#2]
Get something to monitor your coolant temp and oil temp. If you are within 10 degrees while cruising on the highway your oil cooler is working well. It isn't mandatory to change the oil cooler if there are no problems. Also monitor your FICM voltage on startup, if it is dropping below 45-46V then you need some FICM work.
Unless you have proof they used a good ELC, go ahead and do a coolant flush and replace with a Cat rated ELC. Be careful of an EGR delete, dunno what your emissions checks are like in NY. |
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Posted: 5/21/2015 11:48:11 AM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Get something to monitor your coolant temp and oil temp. If you are within 10 degrees while cruising on the highway your oil cooler is working well. It isn't mandatory to change the oil cooler if there are no problems. Also monitor your FICM voltage on startup, if it is dropping below 45-46V then you need some FICM work. Unless you have proof they used a good ELC, go ahead and do a coolant flush and replace with a Cat rated ELC. Be careful of an EGR delete, dunno what your emissions checks are like in NY. At a minimum I would do a coolant flush with the actual flush Ford sells (purpose made) and an external coolant filter. The reason so many EGR/oil coolers fail is the crap floating around in the block due to the casting process. The sediment gets clogged in the EGR and oil cooler which leads to purges/overheating/etc which ultimately lead to blown head gaskets. |
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Posted: 5/21/2015 11:51:29 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Get something to monitor your coolant temp and oil temp. If you are within 10 degrees while cruising on the highway your oil cooler is working well. It isn't mandatory to change the oil cooler if there are no problems. Also monitor your FICM voltage on startup, if it is dropping below 45-46V then you need some FICM work. Unless you have proof they used a good ELC, go ahead and do a coolant flush and replace with a Cat rated ELC. Be careful of an EGR delete, dunno what your emissions checks are like in NY. No smog on diesels upstate. Will a scangauge monitor those temps? Or do I need independent gauges? |
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Posted: 5/21/2015 11:52:13 AM EDT
[#5]
Mod it into a Duramax.
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Posted: 5/21/2015 11:53:38 AM EDT
[#6]
Get a monitor. The edge CTS is really nice. I used it on my 5.9.
You should also look into head studs. |
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Posted: 5/21/2015 11:56:25 AM EDT
[#7]
Just save yourself the headache and sell it.
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Posted: 5/21/2015 11:59:55 AM EDT
[#8]
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Posted: 5/21/2015 12:00:00 PM EDT
[#9]
Scangauge is good, also the bluetooth/wifi adapters you can use with android/iOS work really well. You can even program a custom PID in a scangauge or wireless adapter to give you the delta between water and oil. The scanguage is good if you don't intend to mod it and want to leave something there all the time. I would go with one of the programmers if you ever intend to mod the engine, since they will give you OBD-II monitoring ability, EGT monitoring, and program all in one. You don't have to use the power adding capabilities of a programmer, but it is a fair expense if you are not.
What trim level did you get? I know my Lariat has a boost gauge factory, which is cool to watch at least. If you intend to tow a pyrometer to monitor the EGT is very nice to have. |
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Posted: 5/21/2015 12:01:04 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: No smog on diesels upstate. Will a scangauge monitor those temps? Or do I need independent gauges? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Get something to monitor your coolant temp and oil temp. If you are within 10 degrees while cruising on the highway your oil cooler is working well. It isn't mandatory to change the oil cooler if there are no problems. Also monitor your FICM voltage on startup, if it is dropping below 45-46V then you need some FICM work. Unless you have proof they used a good ELC, go ahead and do a coolant flush and replace with a Cat rated ELC. Be careful of an EGR delete, dunno what your emissions checks are like in NY. No smog on diesels upstate. Will a scangauge monitor those temps? Or do I need independent gauges? Yes, I have the SGII and it monitors both EOT and ECT (engine oil and engine coolant temps). I agree: no need to replace the oil cooler unless it's already plugged up. I've done most of these things to make my 6.0 bulletproof: http://www.ficmrepair.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=results/category_id=13/mode=cat/cat13.htm In addition: Get rid of both the kitty and the muffler. No other exhaust system mods need be done, unless you just want to spend money. Good luck! |
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Posted: 5/21/2015 12:01:47 PM EDT
[#11]
I just recently bought a 2005 F350 with a 6.0 with 212,000 miles. The engine went bad (lifter broke) so I did a full rebuild.
I'd definitely get some sort of monitor. No need for a new oil cooler if your's is working. I would definitely do a flush and only use ELC coolant, Rotella Ultra ELC is the best. Add a coolant filter so you can filter all coolant and not get a plugged oil cooler. I'd do an EGR delete as they are nothing but problems and can make a good running engine go bad in an instant. I did a full build thread on my rebuild here with lots of photos. It might help you see where things are located or what you feel like tackling first. Here it is: New Truck Bad Engine - Rebuild Thread |
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Posted: 5/21/2015 12:02:24 PM EDT
[#12]
ARP head studs, like yesterday.
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Posted: 5/21/2015 12:02:46 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Scangauge is good, also the bluetooth/wifi adapters you can use with android/iOS work really well. You can even program a custom PID in a scangauge or wireless adapter to give you the delta between water and oil. The scanguage is good if you don't intend to mod it and want to leave something there all the time. I would go with one of the programmers if you ever intend to mod the engine, since they will give you OBD-II monitoring ability, EGT monitoring, and program all in one. You don't have to use the power adding capabilities of a programmer, but it is a fair expense if you are not. What trim level did you get? I know my Lariat has a boost gauge factory, which is cool to watch at least. If you intend to tow a pyrometer to monitor the EGT is very nice to have. Just the XL. Basic package so after we trash it at work I can just pressure wash the inside. 
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Posted: 5/21/2015 12:04:04 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I just recently bought a 2005 F350 with a 6.0 with 212,000 miles. The engine went bad (lifter broke) so I did a full rebuild. I'd definitely get some sort of monitor. No need for a new oil cooler if your's is working. I would definitely do a flush and only use ELC coolant, Rotella Ultra ELC is the best. Add a coolant filter so you can filter all coolant and not get a plugged oil cooler. I'd do an EGR delete as they are nothing but problems and can make a good running engine go bad in an instant. I did a full build thread on my rebuild here with lots of photos. It might help you see where things are located or what you feel like tackling first. Here it is: New Truck Bad Engine - Rebuild Thread 
Hopefully with some of the preventative mods and a gauge I can push this on another 100k without any issues. If it can get me 5 years of work I will call it a win. |
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Posted: 5/21/2015 12:06:53 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Replace your coolant cap... NOW. http://www.amazon.com/Stant-10238-Radiator-Cap-PSI/dp/B000B8JUGQ I just put one of those on my 7.3.....maybe I should take it with me when I go to pick it up. |
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Posted: 5/21/2015 12:11:45 PM EDT
[#16]
ARB headstuds. My brother in law bought a 6.0 not to long ago. My brother told him to replace the bolts with the ARB studs. He claimed it was already done and brushed him off. His pickup is now in the shop. Repair bill is going to be thousands.
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Posted: 5/21/2015 12:13:48 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Replace your coolant cap... NOW. http://www.amazon.com/Stant-10238-Radiator-Cap-PSI/dp/B000B8JUGQ Buy a box of them and swap them out every 10k. Seriously. If it hasn't been done, install headstuds. |
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Posted: 5/21/2015 12:14:35 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
ARB headstuds. My brother in law bought a 6.0 not to long ago. My brother told him to replace the bolts with the ARB studs. He claimed it was already done and brushed him off. His pickup is now in the shop. Repair bill is going to be thousands. Can those be done without pulling the heads? Or should I just take it to the diesel shop in town. We have a pretty good diesel guy just a few miles away. I thought first thing I might run down and have it look it all over and recommend any preventative fixes. I don't want a hotrod, I just want a work truck that will start and run. |
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Posted: 5/21/2015 12:15:38 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
ARP headstuds. My brother in law bought a 6.0 not to long ago. My brother told him to replace the bolts with the ARP studs. He claimed it was already done and brushed him off. His pickup is now in the shop. Repair bill is going to be thousands. FIXT |
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Posted: 5/21/2015 12:15:58 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just save yourself the headache and sell it. This was my experience as well. |
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Posted: 5/21/2015 12:16:37 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Can those be done without pulling the heads? Or should I just take it to the diesel shop in town. We have a pretty good diesel guy just a few miles away. I thought first thing I might run down and have it look it all over and recommend any preventative fixes. I don't want a hotrod, I just want a work truck that will start and run. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: ARB headstuds. My brother in law bought a 6.0 not to long ago. My brother told him to replace the bolts with the ARB studs. He claimed it was already done and brushed him off. His pickup is now in the shop. Repair bill is going to be thousands. Can those be done without pulling the heads? Or should I just take it to the diesel shop in town. We have a pretty good diesel guy just a few miles away. I thought first thing I might run down and have it look it all over and recommend any preventative fixes. I don't want a hotrod, I just want a work truck that will start and run. Physically, yes. But it usually doesn't work for very long, at least from the reports I've read over the years over on the various diesel boards I am a member of. If you're down that far, just have them pull the heads and ensure they aren't already warped. Don't half-ass it. Buy one, cry once. |
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Posted: 5/21/2015 12:16:50 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Can those be done without pulling the heads? Or should I just take it to the diesel shop in town. We have a pretty good diesel guy just a few miles away. I thought first thing I might run down and have it look it all over and recommend any preventative fixes. I don't want a hotrod, I just want a work truck that will start and run. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
ARB headstuds. My brother in law bought a 6.0 not to long ago. My brother told him to replace the bolts with the ARB studs. He claimed it was already done and brushed him off. His pickup is now in the shop. Repair bill is going to be thousands. Can those be done without pulling the heads? Or should I just take it to the diesel shop in town. We have a pretty good diesel guy just a few miles away. I thought first thing I might run down and have it look it all over and recommend any preventative fixes. I don't want a hotrod, I just want a work truck that will start and run. I personally have no idea. I know I see a lot of people on the boating/fishing forums saying it has to be done, my brother has a Duramax and hangs out on the diesel forums quite a bit and it's highly recommended there too. Google "6.0 Bulletproofed" |
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Posted: 5/21/2015 12:18:27 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Can those be done without pulling the heads? Or should I just take it to the diesel shop in town. We have a pretty good diesel guy just a few miles away. I thought first thing I might run down and have it look it all over and recommend any preventative fixes. I don't want a hotrod, I just want a work truck that will start and run. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
ARB headstuds. My brother in law bought a 6.0 not to long ago. My brother told him to replace the bolts with the ARB studs. He claimed it was already done and brushed him off. His pickup is now in the shop. Repair bill is going to be thousands. Can those be done without pulling the heads? Or should I just take it to the diesel shop in town. We have a pretty good diesel guy just a few miles away. I thought first thing I might run down and have it look it all over and recommend any preventative fixes. I don't want a hotrod, I just want a work truck that will start and run. I saw where a guy did them without pulling the heads, but unless I was 110% sure everything was great, I would still want to pull the heads, replace the gaskets, level everything, etc. His did go for like 50k miles last I looked, so I might just be paranoid. |
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Posted: 5/21/2015 12:18:52 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Can those be done without pulling the heads? Or should I just take it to the diesel shop in town. We have a pretty good diesel guy just a few miles away. I thought first thing I might run down and have it look it all over and recommend any preventative fixes. I don't want a hotrod, I just want a work truck that will start and run. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
ARB headstuds. My brother in law bought a 6.0 not to long ago. My brother told him to replace the bolts with the ARB studs. He claimed it was already done and brushed him off. His pickup is now in the shop. Repair bill is going to be thousands. Can those be done without pulling the heads? Or should I just take it to the diesel shop in town. We have a pretty good diesel guy just a few miles away. I thought first thing I might run down and have it look it all over and recommend any preventative fixes. I don't want a hotrod, I just want a work truck that will start and run. Yes, but if you're going to the trouble of headstuds might as well do head gaskets. If you find a good shop, they can do it without pulling the cab. Most of the time it's easier just pull the cab and have a huge work area. |
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Posted: 5/21/2015 12:18:58 PM EDT
[#25]
Put a Cummins in it. Future problems solved.
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Posted: 5/21/2015 12:19:08 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This was my experience as well. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Just save yourself the headache and sell it. This was my experience as well. I keep getting mixed reviews. I know a few contractors with them with nothing but work miles and basic service and they run fine for them. Others have said nothing but problems. I am pretty meticulous with maintenance, I could keep more accurate records but once the odometer rolls over another 5k increment it gets some care. |
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Posted: 5/21/2015 12:19:54 PM EDT
[#27]
Yes, the head has to come off to replace the studs.
and I believe the cab of the truck has to be lifted to do the job. ETA - that's what kept me from buying the one I found when I was shopping for a diesel truck. It was cheap, and supposedly a "great deal", but there was a reason it was cheap. I've seen lots of folks trying to get rid of these trucks. I ended up buying a Cummins. |
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Posted: 5/21/2015 12:20:07 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Put a Cummins in it. Future problems solved. Can I borrow 10 grand.
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Posted: 5/21/2015 12:20:42 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Put a Cummins in it. Future problems solved. That's what my buddy did after his 2nd set of headgaskets. 24v FTW |
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Posted: 5/21/2015 12:35:09 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Physically, yes. But it usually doesn't work for very long, at least from the reports I've read over the years over on the various diesel boards I am a member of. If you're down that far, just have them pull the heads and ensure they aren't already warped. Don't half-ass it. Buy one, cry once. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
ARB headstuds. My brother in law bought a 6.0 not to long ago. My brother told him to replace the bolts with the ARB studs. He claimed it was already done and brushed him off. His pickup is now in the shop. Repair bill is going to be thousands. Can those be done without pulling the heads? Or should I just take it to the diesel shop in town. We have a pretty good diesel guy just a few miles away. I thought first thing I might run down and have it look it all over and recommend any preventative fixes. I don't want a hotrod, I just want a work truck that will start and run. Physically, yes. But it usually doesn't work for very long, at least from the reports I've read over the years over on the various diesel boards I am a member of. If you're down that far, just have them pull the heads and ensure they aren't already warped. Don't half-ass it. Buy one, cry once. Yes, studs cannot be installed without pulling the heads if the gasket is in good shape and they are done 1 at a time. There is 1 bolt that is very difficult to get out and may require dimpling the firewall a bit, but you cant see it once the cover is back on. Its much better to pull the heads, deck em flat and use a new Ford head gasket (not black onyx) The reason the head gasket fails is because the egr cooler lays in the valley along the passenger side head. When the EGR cooler gets clogged up with sand from the coolant it gets hot. The hot cooler laying on the head causes it to warp a bit and cylinder pressure pushes out the gasket a bit. Then its gone. Ford changed the head gasket design in late 05. The 03 and 04's had a different head gasket and the EGR cooler had a different core design which was also changed in 2005 through 2007. The oil cooler and oil rails in 05 also was redesigned over the 03 and 04 and all the plastic parts were removed. At this point, if your 6.0 is not throwing up onto the degas bottle or has sweet smelling exhaust, I would just do a fluid change and call it good. Pull and clean the turbo and enjoy it. 05+ 6.0's are reliable when stock. When you start modding them is when you have the head gasket issue as the cylinders are only surrounded by 4 torque to yield bolts each instead of 5 like on the other diesels. Post pics of your degas bottle. Pull the egr valve out and clean it. Post pics of your turbo to intercooler and manifold tubes to see if you have the updated ones. Check the turbo oil drain as well. A CTS monitor can show your oil/coolant deltas (*15* is the limit) as well as ficm voltage. Only use motorcraft oil filters. The aftermarket ones are a bit shorter and it has been found that it allows unfilter oil into the hpop. A blue spring conversion for the fuel filter housing will keep the pressures up at the injectors as well during hard pulls. The 6.0 likes to be run hard. When its used as a grocery getter with short trips and no good warm up time, it gets temperamental. Its a good motor in 05+ (when stock) and I mean stock. |
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Posted: 5/21/2015 12:39:01 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
A blue spring conversion for the fuel filter housing will keep the pressures up at the injectors as well during hard pulls. The 6.0 likes to be run hard. When its used as a grocery getter with short trips and no good warm up time, it gets temperamental. Its a good motor in 05+ (when stock) and I mean stock. I could be wrong, but I thought the 05+ already were blue spring converted from the factory? |
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Posted: 5/21/2015 12:39:22 PM EDT
[#32]
IN
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Posted: 5/21/2015 12:45:03 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Yes, studs cannot be installed without pulling the heads if the gasket is in good shape and they are done 1 at a time. There is 1 bolt that is very difficult to get out and may require dimpling the firewall a bit, but you cant see it once the cover is back on. Its much better to pull the heads, deck em flat and use a new Ford head gasket (not black onyx) The reason the head gasket fails is because the egr cooler lays in the valley along the passenger side head. When the EGR cooler gets clogged up with sand from the coolant it gets hot. The hot cooler laying on the head causes it to warp a bit and cylinder pressure pushes out the gasket a bit. Then its gone. Ford changed the head gasket design in late 05. The 03 and 04's had a different head gasket and the EGR cooler had a different core design which was also changed in 2005 through 2007. The oil cooler and oil rails in 05 also was redesigned over the 03 and 04 and all the plastic parts were removed. At this point, if your 6.0 is not throwing up onto the degas bottle or has sweet smelling exhaust, I would just do a fluid change and call it good. Pull and clean the turbo and enjoy it. 05+ 6.0's are reliable when stock. When you start modding them is when you have the head gasket issue as the cylinders are only surrounded by 4 torque to yield bolts each instead of 5 like on the other diesels. Post pics of your degas bottle. Pull the egr valve out and clean it. Post pics of your turbo to intercooler and manifold tubes to see if you have the updated ones. Check the turbo oil drain as well. A CTS monitor can show your oil/coolant deltas (*15* is the limit) as well as ficm voltage. Only use motorcraft oil filters. The aftermarket ones are a bit shorter and it has been found that it allows unfilter oil into the hpop. A blue spring conversion for the fuel filter housing will keep the pressures up at the injectors as well during hard pulls. The 6.0 likes to be run hard. When its used as a grocery getter with short trips and no good warm up time, it gets temperamental. Its a good motor in 05+ (when stock) and I mean stock. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
ARB headstuds. My brother in law bought a 6.0 not to long ago. My brother told him to replace the bolts with the ARB studs. He claimed it was already done and brushed him off. His pickup is now in the shop. Repair bill is going to be thousands. Can those be done without pulling the heads? Or should I just take it to the diesel shop in town. We have a pretty good diesel guy just a few miles away. I thought first thing I might run down and have it look it all over and recommend any preventative fixes. I don't want a hotrod, I just want a work truck that will start and run. Physically, yes. But it usually doesn't work for very long, at least from the reports I've read over the years over on the various diesel boards I am a member of. If you're down that far, just have them pull the heads and ensure they aren't already warped. Don't half-ass it. Buy one, cry once. Yes, studs cannot be installed without pulling the heads if the gasket is in good shape and they are done 1 at a time. There is 1 bolt that is very difficult to get out and may require dimpling the firewall a bit, but you cant see it once the cover is back on. Its much better to pull the heads, deck em flat and use a new Ford head gasket (not black onyx) The reason the head gasket fails is because the egr cooler lays in the valley along the passenger side head. When the EGR cooler gets clogged up with sand from the coolant it gets hot. The hot cooler laying on the head causes it to warp a bit and cylinder pressure pushes out the gasket a bit. Then its gone. Ford changed the head gasket design in late 05. The 03 and 04's had a different head gasket and the EGR cooler had a different core design which was also changed in 2005 through 2007. The oil cooler and oil rails in 05 also was redesigned over the 03 and 04 and all the plastic parts were removed. At this point, if your 6.0 is not throwing up onto the degas bottle or has sweet smelling exhaust, I would just do a fluid change and call it good. Pull and clean the turbo and enjoy it. 05+ 6.0's are reliable when stock. When you start modding them is when you have the head gasket issue as the cylinders are only surrounded by 4 torque to yield bolts each instead of 5 like on the other diesels. Post pics of your degas bottle. Pull the egr valve out and clean it. Post pics of your turbo to intercooler and manifold tubes to see if you have the updated ones. Check the turbo oil drain as well. A CTS monitor can show your oil/coolant deltas (*15* is the limit) as well as ficm voltage. Only use motorcraft oil filters. The aftermarket ones are a bit shorter and it has been found that it allows unfilter oil into the hpop. A blue spring conversion for the fuel filter housing will keep the pressures up at the injectors as well during hard pulls. The 6.0 likes to be run hard. When its used as a grocery getter with short trips and no good warm up time, it gets temperamental. Its a good motor in 05+ (when stock) and I mean stock. Thank you. I assume you have to work them to keep the EGR cleaner? It has a contractor body on it, will probably have a small trailer behind it at least once a week. It should get a workout. |
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Posted: 5/21/2015 1:02:58 PM EDT
[#34]
I bought mine in 04. Still going strong. Bone stock. No mods. I keep up on the service. Just replaced all the hoses and first set of brakes. I hope to keep it another ten years.
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Posted: 5/21/2015 1:08:55 PM EDT
[#35]
Getting rid of it would be a good 'mod'.
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Posted: 5/21/2015 1:11:30 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Can I borrow 10 grand. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Put a Cummins in it. Future problems solved. Can I borrow 10 grand. No. A buddy of mine does Cummins conversions for people. He just did an Excursion for his wife to drive. He also has a Corvette with a twin turbo 24 valve in it and a 72 Chevy Longhorn 4wd conversion with a twin turbo 24 valve. He knows his shit. |
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Posted: 5/21/2015 1:19:56 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just save yourself the headache and sell it. This is the. best advise. |
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Posted: 5/21/2015 1:21:23 PM EDT
[#38]
Upgrade to a dura-max...
Piss on Ford & their shit-stain Navistar. |
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Posted: 5/21/2015 1:23:47 PM EDT
[#39]
Yank that turd right outta there and put in a big block
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Posted: 5/21/2015 2:08:00 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Upgrade to a dura-max...
Piss on Ford & their shit-stain Navistar. lol! im guessing somebody got beat by a ford. headstuds are over rated. unless your looking to boost over 30psi/600+ HP they are not needed. the head gasket killers are the egr cooler, oil cooler, sticking turbo's , over aggressive timimg and low coolant conditions. a healthy 6.0 only needs an egr delete and coolant filter to stay healthy. if you want to run a tuner only go with an sct/custom tunes... your tranny and heads gaskets will thank you. 
an sct livewire is the way to go if you want a full time monitor. i run the X4 as a monitor and can disco it when not needed/want to be stealth. |
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Posted: 5/21/2015 2:11:36 PM EDT
[#41]
Take the radiator cap off the radiator, drive the old 6.0 truck out from under it, then drive a new truck, something that does not have a 6.0, under the radiator cap. Install cap. Done.
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Posted: 5/21/2015 2:14:10 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
lol! im guessing somebody got beat by a ford. headstuds are over rated. unless your looking to boost over 30psi/600+ HP they are not needed. the head gasket killers are the egr cooler, oil cooler, sticking turbo's , over aggressive timimg and low coolant conditions. a healthy 6.0 only needs an egr delete and coolant filter to stay healthy. if you want to run a tuner only go with an sct/custom tunes... your tranny and heads gaskets will thank you.
an sct livewire is the way to go if you want a full time monitor. i run the X4 as a monitor and can disco it when not needed/want to be stealth. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Upgrade to a dura-max...
Piss on Ford & their shit-stain Navistar. lol! im guessing somebody got beat by a ford. headstuds are over rated. unless your looking to boost over 30psi/600+ HP they are not needed. the head gasket killers are the egr cooler, oil cooler, sticking turbo's , over aggressive timimg and low coolant conditions. a healthy 6.0 only needs an egr delete and coolant filter to stay healthy. if you want to run a tuner only go with an sct/custom tunes... your tranny and heads gaskets will thank you.
an sct livewire is the way to go if you want a full time monitor. i run the X4 as a monitor and can disco it when not needed/want to be stealth. No, I got sick when we had to put $8-10K in our 06 F350... I speak from experience. So you don't know about the lawsuit over this engine & Fords denial of responsability for selling crap engines? OP bought the worst year to have. |
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Posted: 5/21/2015 2:22:10 PM EDT
[#43]
lol!
the lawsuit should have been against the EPA. what all did you have go wrong? im guessing you didnt have a coolant filter or EGR delete. |
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Posted: 5/21/2015 2:26:48 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just save yourself the headache and sell it. |
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Posted: 5/21/2015 2:34:10 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
ARP head studs, like yesterday. Why don't you tell him about the "cab off" part of that upgrade? Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Posted: 5/21/2015 2:35:37 PM EDT
[#46]
I'd have done the "buy any truck but one with a 6.0" mod.
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Posted: 5/21/2015 2:37:14 PM EDT
[#47]
What's the benefit of bypassing EGR?
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Posted: 5/21/2015 2:42:35 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Why don't you tell him about the "cab off" part of that upgrade? Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: ARP head studs, like yesterday. Why don't you tell him about the "cab off" part of that upgrade? Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Studs are unnecessary unless the owner is intending to run the truck past it's design limits. |
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Posted: 5/21/2015 2:46:57 PM EDT
[#49]
Head Studs. EGR Del, Coolant Filter.
Super Panty Dropper Tune from: https://www.trucksourcediesel.com/tsd-tunes/ My brother's 6.0 Excursion is a wicked!!!  . TSD tunes for his 7.3 also rock!
http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-0l-performance-parts-discussion/509114-super-panty-dropper-must-have.html |
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Posted: 5/21/2015 3:03:32 PM EDT
[#50]
Headstuds. Do not pass go, do not modify anything until the headstuds are done.
I owned a 2005 6.0, and I tell you three times you need to do the headstuds or you will regret it. |
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