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Is that your personal shop or is it for your business? I thought it was a hell of a home shop then I saw the barcodes on the shelf and though it might be some sort of business?
Oh, there's a car forum here too, might draw more interest there. |
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My dad and I own a sandblasting company. This is our sandblast shop. The pallet racks were bought used and we haven't taken the bar codes off.
We like to work on our own stuff and would rather build something than buy it, so we have a pretty well set up shop. Lots of tools, woodworking and metal fab equipment. It's nice to have a place to work on whatever you want! |
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Tag for interest. I do so many of those it's nice to see someone else do one. Good price. I picked up a 2004 250 long bed crew lariat for 6,000 3 years ago and just put it back together. Got a 2003 and an 06 this year.
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6.0 Powerstroke: The glocks of diesel trucks.
For real though, good luck. The 05-07 Superduty's are my favorite 3/4 ton trucks looks-wise (would have made a primo 6BT swap though) |
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You splitting the Trans off and leaving it in the truck or trying to pull it all out?
You already pull all electrical and other connections off the engine? Looks like more than a couple hours work yet...especially without a lift. Did you get the real shop manuals from ford? Little details are very important.
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Very awesome.
This is something I would love to do but wouldn't have the faintest idea how. |
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agreed with the cummins swap. 5.9! Looking forward to a thread not full of dumbasses hopefully!
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I think you made a good choice in buying that truck cheap and doing the engine swap/rebuild yourself. Good luck and keep us up to date on your progress.
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you have a forklift and are gonna use an engine hoist? The 6.0 Fords are kinda hit and miss, my boss has one that has 300k on it and it runs great. Good luck on the rebuild.
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Isn't the SOP for pulling the motor from a Super Duty to lift the cab off the frame?
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Quoted: Isn't the SOP for pulling the motor from a Super Duty to lift the cab off the frame? View Quote |
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Quoted:
you have a forklift and are gonna use an engine hoist? The 6.0 Fords are kinda hit and miss, my boss has one that has 300k on it and it runs great. Good luck on the rebuild. View Quote My brother has a 6.0 and works that thing like a DOG in his tree service business and he has had no problems with it. Really surprised me. |
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F*cking Old Rebuilt Dodge!
Sorry, just popped in my head. Looks like a cool project for you guys. Have fun, keep us updated! |
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No. Massive waste of time and high probability of damaging the interior. Plus if the customer sees it like that, you just married every squeak rattle or clunk that truck will ever make. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Isn't the SOP for pulling the motor from a Super Duty to lift the cab off the frame? "I need 32k for my pain and suffering." |
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Parts are starting to come off! I'm taking lots of photos and keeping all the screws and bolts in individually labeled zip lock bags. Dad's organizing the tools in this photo. Smart! Sure will help later. |
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Quoted:
No. Massive waste of time and high probability of damaging the interior. Plus if the customer sees it like that, you just married every squeak rattle or clunk that truck will ever make. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Isn't the SOP for pulling the motor from a Super Duty to lift the cab off the frame? I'm OCD enough that I'd spend an extra week cleaning the grease and rust off the frame. It would end up being a frame-off restoration. With a freshly powdercoated frame. |
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Would've been easier to buy a body lift and just pull the cab off.
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Quoted:
No. Massive waste of time and high probability of damaging the interior. Plus if the customer sees it like that, you just married every squeak rattle or clunk that truck will ever make. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Isn't the SOP for pulling the motor from a Super Duty to lift the cab off the frame? Votefromrooftops in the HTF will tell you different. |
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Tag for interest. I do so many of those it's nice to see someone else do one. Good price. I picked up a 2004 250 long bed crew lariat for 6,000 3 years ago and just put it back together. Got a 2003 and an 06 this year. View Quote I might pm you on some pointers then, if you don't mind. I think everything is going to be pretty straight forward, but it'd be good to have someone to bounce a few questions off of. I'm posting over at powerstroke.org as well. |
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View Quote Nah, don't have that much money to put into it right now. I'll be bulletproof in this one though. |
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Quoted:
You splitting the Trans off and leaving it in the truck or trying to pull it all out? You already pull all electrical and other connections off the engine? Looks like more than a couple hours work yet...especially without a lift. Did you get the real shop manuals from ford? Little details are very important. View Quote Yeah, I'll be unbolting the Trans and leaving it in. I still have to pull some connections, the turbo, filter housing and intake before it's ready to come out. The 2+ hours was just an estimate, might be a little conservative though. I can get the ford manuals from the diesel mechanic I bought it from. He works on these all the time and has all the manuals. His wife wouldn't let him keep this one. |
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Quoted: Isn't the SOP for pulling the motor from a Super Duty to lift the cab off the frame? View Quote Not really. Some guys came up with that to beat warranty labor times years ago, now all of a sudden people want to pull bodies off of like Ford Escorts to swap engines. There is a time and a place for removing the cab. I try to avoid it if possible, I only did it to beat warranty labor times. If it was customer pay, I could quote the job fairly where we didn't have to do any of that cab off craziness and still have the job turn out perfect. |
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I've yanked and replaced a bunch of engines in my time, and the first thing I always did was REMOVE THE HOOD.
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I've done almost a dozen of these jobs...
1. replace the front cover. The metal damage that took out the oil pump also scarred the cover and it's critical for oil pressure (the cover comes with a pump and pressure valve already installed) 2. replace the oil cooler 3. You are not to remove the flange on the back of the crank. (I've done it without issue but the book says not to) so you have to pull the crank to pull the cam shaft 4. Make sure you put in upgraded rocker arm sets. You can tell if they are because the upgraded ones have an oiler hole in the tip 5. 85ftlbs and 3/4 of a turn on the head bolts. (or you can upgrade to a stud kit at this time) 6. Go ahead and rebuild the injector oil rails. The kit is only about 200 bucks to do this. well worth it. 7. I personally put in new injectors but it's up to you. 8. Prime the fawk out of the oil system. Fill the oil gallery from the oil cooler to the HP pump before assembly 9. There is a screen under the oil cooler. A new one comes with the cooler the old one will be holed. It's a shame you are so far away. I've got a complete set of rocker arms kits and oil pump for that engine sitting on my work bench. One final thought.... Those damn roller needles get into EVERYTHING. I strongly recommend having the block vatted to make sure it's absolutely free of the damned things. |
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Why not do the trans also.
With 200k+ miles and you pulling the engine seems it would be worth the little extra work? |
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Any reason for not doing a cummins swap?
My buddy just swapped his 6.0 out for a 24 valve cummins and loves it |
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Quoted: Nah, don't have that much money to put into it right now. I'll be bulletproof in this one though. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Nah, don't have that much money to put into it right now. I'll be bulletproof in this one though. |
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First camshaft job I did ran 10k when it was all said and done... You can almost buy a new motor for that!
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Quoted: Teeners View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Or do the research, do it right and make the 6.0 the engine that ford never could. I'd gut that block, pressure wash the empty and start over. I've seen Torrington bearings cause havoc in an allison, I can't imagine what needle bearings would do in an engine. The r&r is the hard part, buy the seals, bolts and bearings and rebuild it right. |
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Quoted:
I've done almost a dozen of these jobs... 1. replace the front cover. The metal damage that took out the oil pump also scarred the cover and it's critical for oil pressure (the cover comes with a pump and pressure valve already installed) 2. replace the oil cooler 3. You are not to remove the flange on the back of the crank. (I've done it without issue but the book says not to) so you have to pull the crank to pull the cam shaft 4. Make sure you put in upgraded rocker arm sets. You can tell if they are because the upgraded ones have an oiler hole in the tip 5. 85ftlbs and 3/4 of a turn on the head bolts. (or you can upgrade to a stud kit at this time) 6. Go ahead and rebuild the injector oil rails. The kit is only about 200 bucks to do this. well worth it. 7. I personally put in new injectors but it's up to you. 8. Prime the fawk out of the oil system. Fill the oil gallery from the oil cooler to the HP pump before assembly 9. There is a screen under the oil cooler. A new one comes with the cooler the old one will be holed. It's a shame you are so far away. I've got a complete set of rocker arms kits and oil pump for that engine sitting on my work bench. One final thought.... Those damn roller needles get into EVERYTHING. I strongly recommend having the block vatted to make sure it's absolutely free of the damned things. View Quote This !! Then buy and install a B cummins and call it a day . The B is the best of the small engines by a mile |
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Quoted: Votefromrooftops in the HTF will tell you different. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Isn't the SOP for pulling the motor from a Super Duty to lift the cab off the frame? Votefromrooftops in the HTF will tell you different. |
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