User Panel
|
what state are you in? or said another way, does it get below freezing there for long periods of time? do you need a proper footer below the frost line?
i'm still a bit confused about your approach with all the gravel; typically for a foundation you would excavate the perimeter, pour a footer in the trench, then block up the foundation walls off the footer until about 18"-24" above grade, and then backfill against the foundation walls. next, you prep the interior (compacted gravel base + visqueen) and pour the flatwork slab, buffering it from the foundation walls with expansion strip so it floats. the resultant slab usually ends up about 4"-6" or so above grade, keeping the water out and allowing for an easy one-step-up entry and/or sloped garage entry apron. what's your order of operations compared to that? any why 12" commercial block? do you have an inexpensive source? did you cancel your gym membership and need a substitute? ar-jedi http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/11866-1/DSCN5143.JPG http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/10733-1/DSCN5166.JPG http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/10738-1/DSCN5127.JPG http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/11794-1/DSCN5168.JPG http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/11816-1/DSCN5171.JPG http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/11979-1/DSCN5218.JPG http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/12098-1/DSCN5236.JPG http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/12118-1/DSCN5241.JPG http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/12053-1/DSCN5247.JPG http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/12334-1/DSCN5257.JPG http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/12274-1/DSCN5262.JPG http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/12642-1/DSCN5339.JPG http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/35020-1/DSCN7795.JPG http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/27351-1/DSCN6642.JPG http://wopr.losdos.dyndns.org/gallery2/d/24127-1/DSCN6234.JPG |
|
No worries here about frost line or anything freeze related except water lines.
I pulled the area flat with my box blade on my tractor, formed 12" and staked with bracing. Had the gravel delivered and dumped into the form. Then I went around the edge to dig out the footing and level the gravel to a -4" for the concrete. The extra gravel, I pitched around the outside edge for support. Might not have needed it but I've never heard anyone say that they wished they didn't make their concrete form so sturdy, ever. I made the form 12" so the down hill side was up off of the ground about 6". It will remain back filled all the way around, almost to the top of the concrete when it is finished. It might not be how someone else would do it but someone else wasn't here to help. I'm going with 12" concrete block for the insulation value especially when it is filled with more concrete. 12' blocks cost $1.60 each and 8" are $1.06. About $250 more. BFD This building will hold items that I don't want to be exposed to rapid or drastic temperature change. |
|
I don't know anything about reloading, but do think a wood stove is the safest way to heat a reloading room.?
|
|
Quoted:
I don't know anything about reloading, but do think a wood stove is the safest way to heat a reloading room.? View Quote Plenty of people heat a reloading room with a wood stove. Just don't reload right on top of the stove and don't store powder or primers near it and you should be okay. Example if your stove is on the north wall you want to reload on the south wall. If you are storing powders and primers make sure you store them in a box with a weak side. If the worse should happen you want the box to have a way to allow the pressure to blow out and not turn into a bomb. Remember if the worse should happen there is nothing you can do to stop the fire since powders have such a fast burn rate. You can only take precautions to prevent serious injury and minimize the damage. |
|
I'll tag any thread started by a Beat fan.
All I can hear while reading your thread is, "Who, me?" |
|
For a place that small, I wouldn't heat it with a wood stove. Too much hassle for the amount of time you'll be using it.
I would use a small electric heater if I wanted to put heat in cheaply and if you are willing to spend a little more money, I'd install a vented propane or natural gas heater. Propane would probably be cheaper and easier since you could put a small 20-100 lb tank outside the building and just run the propane lines inside the building but if you go with natural gas, you'll have to trench a line from your existing meter/residence....and that's assuming that you even have natural gas. For a small building installing propane is usually the cheapest gas option even though natural gas is cheaper per BTU. If you do go with gas or propane, do NOT use unvented heaters. They do work and are pretty good emergency heat but they put a lot of moisture into the air and for a reloading room, you don't want moisture. FYI....concrete is a terrible insulator. If you have insulation on the OUTSIDE of the building, then the concrete is an EXCELLENT heat sink to hold and maintain the inside temp without a lot of heat input. But, if you are relying on thick concrete as insulation, you are going to be disappointed. Concrete transfers heat VERY well. Think of it this way....when it's cool outside and you sit down on a concrete surface what happens? You get cold. The reason is, your body heat is transferring from you into the concrete....and you get cold. Put a piece of insulation between you and the concrete, and you stay a lot warmer. Try sleeping on cold concrete with and then without some form of good insulation between you and the concrete and you'll experience it for yourself. The rule of insulation is that heat ALWAYS moves to cold. So, when it's cold outside and you are paying $$ to heat the inside, the heat you are paying for is transferring through the concrete to the outdoors. When it's hot outside and you are wanting to cool the inside to make it bearable to work in, the heat is transferring from the outside to the inside, heating up your building. Insulation slows the movement of heat. You can heat/cool a concrete building...but without a thermal break between the outside and the inside somewhere in the structure, you're going to have a hard time heating and cooling it....and it'll be a lot more expensive to do so. Enjoying the pics regardless so please keep them coming! |
|
Quoted:
I'm going with 12" concrete block for the insulation value especially when it is filled with more concrete. 12' blocks cost $1.60 each and 8" are $1.06. About $250 more. BFD This building will hold items that I don't want to be exposed to rapid or drastic temperature change. View Quote you mean thermal mass not insulation value. Concrete has effectively no insulation value. |
|
Nice. Do you have a masonry background? How hard is it to build with block?
|
|
|
|
Nice!
2" of XPS foam on the exterior and your choice of siding over that would go a loooooooooooooong way in achieving the kind of temp stability you are looking for. |
|
I made a rebar bender to make it easier on me.
" /> Closeup of the bender. It can handle 3/4' easy I'm guessing because it bent that 5/8" like buttah. " /> Getting ready to finish up the rebar and tie it tomorrow morning before it gets too hot. " /> Can't wait to finish this project! |
|
And the rebar is done! It only took 4 "saddles" to space it up off of the form. I am very happy with the results though my knees and back are complaining.
" /> Now waiting on the concrete guy to pour next week sometime. Should take about 10 1/2 yards of pump mix. That's about $1300 plus about $400 for the pump truck and about $1000 for the concrete man and his help. |
|
Quoted:
Very nice building. Is it safe to ask why a concrete roof? View Quote I detest wood for construction after finding all the damage on the old farmhouse that I live in now. Concrete is stronger, durable, more secure, rot free and fireproof. All for close to the same cost as wood and shingle or steel roofing. |
|
|
That roof looks like a death trap.
But, I know nothing about concrete roofing, so my post is just based upon looks alone. TRG |
|
The slope is 1" over 13' 4" and I'm thinking about coating the roof with truck bed treatment. Something like the stuff that they spray on but I don't know for sure yet.
|
|
I swear, your avatar makes me hear that voice every damn time I see it.
TRG |
|
Quoted:
The slope is 1" over 13' 4" and I'm thinking about coating the roof with truck bed treatment. Something like the stuff that they spray on but I don't know for sure yet. View Quote I've been following along with your progress. We've thought about doing something similar for a few years but keep thinking that we'll move to another area so it's been in a holding pattern. Having reloading powder in the house has always worried me. In the back of my head I always thought that we would use EPDM over an insulated concrete roof deck. In the FWIW department, I recently purchased a 20' x 50' roll of EPDM for about $500, don't know how that cost compares with the cost of the bed treatment product. The excess EPDM is nice to have around for covering the wood pile or equipment that doesn't fit inside the outbuildings. Good luck with your pour this week. |
|
Looks good, arf has me looking at spending money in every sub forum lol
|
|
|
Quoted:
I've been following along with your progress. We've thought about doing something similar for a few years but keep thinking that we'll move to another area so it's been in a holding pattern. Having reloading powder in the house has always worried me. In the back of my head I always thought that we would use EPDM over an insulated concrete roof deck. In the FWIW department, I recently purchased a 20' x 50' roll of EPDM for about $500, don't know how that cost compares with the cost of the bed treatment product. The excess EPDM is nice to have around for covering the wood pile or equipment that doesn't fit inside the outbuildings. Good luck with your pour this week. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
The slope is 1" over 13' 4" and I'm thinking about coating the roof with truck bed treatment. Something like the stuff that they spray on but I don't know for sure yet. I've been following along with your progress. We've thought about doing something similar for a few years but keep thinking that we'll move to another area so it's been in a holding pattern. Having reloading powder in the house has always worried me. In the back of my head I always thought that we would use EPDM over an insulated concrete roof deck. In the FWIW department, I recently purchased a 20' x 50' roll of EPDM for about $500, don't know how that cost compares with the cost of the bed treatment product. The excess EPDM is nice to have around for covering the wood pile or equipment that doesn't fit inside the outbuildings. Good luck with your pour this week. You had your ass handed to you on the roll of EPDM if only 35 mil. Same roll here is $369 or so for me. The excess is also great for a Koi pond or a slip and slide. |
|
Quoted:
The roof will be fine the way he has it, will last a long time in the interior area the op has. Anything larger, may require a mid-span beam or 2. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
I swear, your avatar makes me hear that voice every damn time I see it. TRG The roof will be fine the way he has it, will last a long time in the interior area the op has. Anything larger, may require a mid-span beam or 2. My concrete man said that I wouldn't need any support inside for the roof but I'm putting a pole in the center because I'd rather over build than build to nominal. I know, I know. Better is the nemesis of good enough. |
|
Quoted:
You had your ass handed to you on the roll of EPDM if only 35 mil. Same roll here is $369 or so for me. The excess is also great for a Koi pond or a slip and slide. View Quote Great, don't know if I should be mad at the supplier or mad at you for making me feel like crap this morning |
|
More Pictures.
The concrete pump arrives. " /> The Concrete Truck feeds the pump. " /> Poured under the window first. " /> Pouring the walls. " /> Pouring the roof. " /> The Boss inspects the work. " /> Done. " /> I placed two pieces of 3" PVC at opposite corners for passive vents. In two weeks i can wreck the forms and start my wiring and shelving. 11 yards of pump mix concrete, $1393.00. Concrete pump, 3 hours and charges for pumping 11 yards, $373.00. the guy taht did the pour and finish work didn't want to charge me anything so if he doesn't let me pay him some money I'm buying him a 1911 or a nice rifle. |
|
Quoted:
I swear, your avatar makes me hear that voice every damn time I see it. TRG View Quote Who, me? That's what I hear. OP, since you're already going balls out, please don't paint that concrete. Find a local roofer that can mop a single ply or a simple mid bit 2ply over the concrete. Simple gravel guard on all 4 sides and you'd be good to go. |
|
The roof is done and I pulled the outside forms off.
" /> I started taking down all of the loose stiffeners. Any of them that were hand loose got pulled. " /> My Jellybean approves of the finish. " /> |
|
Such a cool project! I may have to be a copy cat!
Please continue with the pics!!! |
|
Looks good and professional , Pangea. Nice job of curing the concrete too.
Looking forward to more pics. |
|
Small update. This might not look like much but it was a lot of work and money. 1/4" plate through the hole and framed around the opening.
1/2" round bar welded to the frame. Fitted the opening for the air conditioner and made it adjustable: with some effort, for a different air conditioner when this one craps out. " /> I pitched the top bars so that I can use them to put a piece of steel roofing on them to keep any chance of water from coming in. Tomorrow I will start pulling the inside forming down from the concrete pour. If it doesn't fall on my head and kill me, I'll post some more pictures. |
|
Pulled the center forms out but left the ones on each side in place. Fabricated the "stripper pole" 9call it that to aggravate my wife). i welded the top plate and gussets on in the shop and left the bottom plate and gussets off. I cut the pole 1/16" short to make it easier to install. Used a plum bob to transfer the center mark on the floor to the ceiling and drilled and bolted the pole by it's top plate so it hung down plumb. Slid the bottom plate under it, screwed it down, and welded it and it's gussets in place. I use Tapcon screws.
" /> The pole is installed and ready for paint. " /> The forms are down, the pole is painted and the floor is swept clean. I hope to paint tomorrow or Tuesday. " /> " /> More pics in the next few days. |
|
SURE it there to hold the roof up....
If we see lasers, disco balls, and a fog machine in ANY PICS, we will know that this is NOT going to be what you say it is |
|
Inside walls are painted now. Yesterday I put a heavy coat of Sherwin Williams Block Fill and today I put a coat of SW white eggshell. Probably put a coat on the ceiling too to help with lighting.
" /> |
|
It's looking good, looks like it should be sealed up tight as a drum.
|
|
Getting busy on my wiring. A 200 amp panel. Not that it needs it, but I will nurse off of that panel for my workshop when I build it.
" /> Lots-o-light! I installed six, four foot double lamp fixtures because i like to see what I'm doing. " /> " /> |
|
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.