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Posted: 3/21/2015 9:01:55 PM EDT
[#1]
Shit if you were closer I'd do it for you for some beer and the parts .
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Posted: 3/21/2015 9:03:11 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Shit if you were closer I'd do it for you for some beer and the parts . Same, your calipers should not need to be replaced after 62k miles either. Did they tell you why they need to be replaced? |
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Posted: 3/21/2015 9:05:06 PM EDT
[#3]
I posted in CTGuntalk too.
If you are willing to drive to Cheshire my brother has a shop. I seriously doubt the car needs calipers. PM or email me. |
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Posted: 3/21/2015 9:06:13 PM EDT
[#4]
Eh they could need to be done. I've been through a few sets on my truck . The seize up all the time
But the dealers is probably trying to bone for more work |
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Posted: 3/21/2015 9:14:26 PM EDT
[#5]
With the new liquid saline death they spray onto the roads now, I'm doing calipers almost every time I'm doing pads now. The shit is just horrendously corrosive.
That being said you could do it yourself for maybe 3-400 in parts. A vacuum bleeder makes it an easy job. |
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Posted: 3/21/2015 9:19:27 PM EDT
[#6]
The Toyota dealership (A1 Toyota) claimed they would try to repair the calipers first before replacing them. The Meineke guy claimed really had to crank down on the tool they use to check caliper piston movement.
This is exactly what A1 Toyota wrote in their inspection report: "Front brake rotors are badly rusted and have hot spots forming. The slides on both front calipers have frozen to a point where little to no movement is possible. Rear brakes are at 2mm (drums). Recommend replacing front pads, rotors, and calipers." A1 Toyota, as well as Meineke both indicated the water pump is leaking, but I figure I can replace that myself as it seems pretty straight forward. Didn't really want to try and tackle a major brake replacement myself as I don't have the space or tools/equipment to do so. |
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Posted: 3/21/2015 9:22:50 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
With the new liquid saline death they spray onto the roads now, I'm doing calipers almost every time I'm doing pads now. The shit is just horrendously corrosive. The guy at Meineke asked if I had the car sitting in water because of all the rust he saw on the brakes. Told him the car does sit outside (no garage), isn't driven all that much (a two or three times a week). I figured that crap they're spraying on the roads along with the salt and not driving the car much, did the brakes in. |
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Posted: 3/21/2015 9:23:03 PM EDT
[#8]
If you can do a water pump you can do brakes.
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Posted: 3/21/2015 9:23:49 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Eh they could need to be done. I've been through a few sets on my truck . The seize up all the time But the dealers is probably trying to bone for more work Usually the caliper slides rust and cause the caliper not to "float" and the inner pad wears out while the outer pad looks good. These can be cleaned up and lubed. If the piston is corroded then a remanufactured caliper is required. You should be flushing a changing brake fluid every 2 years as part of preventive maintenance. Brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs water). The water does 2 things. The obvious is the corrosion of steel/iron components like calipers and wheel cylinders. Secondly the water severely lowers the boiling point of brake fluid. After just 2 years the boiling point is dangerously low. Ever have brakes fade? Not very fun. The fluid boils and the resulting bubbles cause the pedal to be very spongy. European manufacturers have regular intervals for brake flushes. Domestics and asians not so much. Brake fluid and boiling point over time. |
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Posted: 3/21/2015 9:46:17 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If you can do a water pump you can do brakes. I probably could do it myself even though I don't have the tools or equipment to do so. But there are times when its best to let the pro's deal with it and I figure this is one of those times. |
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Posted: 3/21/2015 9:48:38 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
But the dealers is probably trying to bone for more work That's what I'm afraid of. Tough to get an honest opinion from the chain muffler/brake shops or even from the Toyota dealership. |
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Posted: 3/21/2015 9:51:49 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I probably could do it myself even though I don't have the tools or equipment to do so. But there are times when its best to let the pro's deal with it and I figure this is one of those times. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
If you can do a water pump you can do brakes. I probably could do it myself even though I don't have the tools or equipment to do so. But there are times when its best to let the pro's deal with it and I figure this is one of those times. It's not. Brakes are super easy. What do you need for tools? You have wrenches and a big c clamp? Don't need a vacum pleader, can just do it with another person pumping brake pedal |
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Posted: 3/21/2015 9:55:33 PM EDT
[#13]
Bring it to me I get parts at cost and should only take a few beers
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Posted: 3/21/2015 10:10:48 PM EDT
[#14]
A loaded caliper shouldn't cost more then 60-80 bucks a piece. So I wouldn't really debate doing them or not , I'd just do them.
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Posted: 3/22/2015 8:29:52 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It's not. Brakes are super easy. What do you need for tools? You have wrenches and a big c clamp? Don't need a vacum pleader, can just do it with another person pumping brake pedal I did the pads a number of years ago. Should have done the rotors at that time but didn't. 
What tools would be needed other than wrenches and big c clamp? Where is a good place to buy all the parts; rotors, pads, calipers, brake fluid? Amazon or local shop like Autozone, Advanced Auto Parts or Pep Boys? If doing this myself can it be done without a vacuum device? Any special tricks or tips if doing this by myself? |
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Posted: 3/22/2015 8:39:16 AM EDT
[#16]
As far as tools, you have them listed. I beed brakes very "back yard mechanic like" as I'll have the spare caliper right next to me ready to go in, then unbolt the old one from the line and then get the new on hooked up as fast as possible. Some fluid will leak out of the line but not a ton. Once the rotar pads and caliper are re installed I put a clear piece of plastic hose over the bleeder nipple and have someone inside the vehicle pump up the brakes. Once the brake feels firm with their foot I have them hold it down, at the same time you open the bleeder nipple up ( it has a spot to put a wrench on it) . When it opens , brake fluid and air bubbles will come out of the nipple into the clear hose. You then repeat the process till there is no more air bubbles coming out of the line. Be sure to have the hose dumping into a can or jug to insure no mess. Also be sure to keep the master cyclinder full of fluid while doing this.
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Posted: 3/22/2015 8:39:43 AM EDT
[#17]
Rockauto.com for the parts, they will be half the price of any local store, even with the cost of shipping.
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Posted: 3/22/2015 9:44:01 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I did the pads a number of years ago. Should have done the rotors at that time but didn't.
What tools would be needed other than wrenches and big c clamp? Where is a good place to buy all the parts; rotors, pads, calipers, brake fluid? Amazon or local shop like Autozone, Advanced Auto Parts or Pep Boys? If doing this myself can it be done without a vacuum device? Any special tricks or tips if doing this by myself? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
It's not. Brakes are super easy. What do you need for tools? You have wrenches and a big c clamp? Don't need a vacum pleader, can just do it with another person pumping brake pedal I did the pads a number of years ago. Should have done the rotors at that time but didn't.
What tools would be needed other than wrenches and big c clamp? Where is a good place to buy all the parts; rotors, pads, calipers, brake fluid? Amazon or local shop like Autozone, Advanced Auto Parts or Pep Boys? If doing this myself can it be done without a vacuum device? Any special tricks or tips if doing this by myself? If you already did the pads, you'll be fine. Wrenches, sockets to take things apart. Big c clamp or similar to push back cylinder in existing caliper, unnecessary if you are replacing them. Only need to bleed brakes if replacing calipers, although that is also a way to replace the current brake fluid- ie, flush it. What was posted is a fine way to do it. Just remember, if you replace the calipers, they are left and right- bleed nipple must be on top. Replacing rotors is nothing, after wheel and caliper is off, just whack them a couple times with a dead blow hammer or block of wood and they should come off. I would take everything apart and look at it, and only order calipers if necessary. When you have the caliper in your hand, make sure it slides on the mounts, so that it would be applying equal pressure on both sides of the rotor when in use. Most likely part to "fail", freeze up. Lube if necessary, likely if you are keeping the calipers. Also make sure rubber boots are in good shape and not cracked. Post pictures here if you want. |
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Posted: 3/22/2015 9:51:44 AM EDT
[#19]
Tire Express in north haven. Dale and Ralph are honest and fair in price. I bring all my vehicles there.
You might want to consider doing your own though. It's not a complicated job, unless you have to take bearings out to pull rotors. Since you have a corolla , I'll go out on a limb and say you dont. I replaced my camry rotors and pads a few months ago it was easy and I'm not mechanically inclined. Pathfinder was another story, requires removing bearings to pull rotors... this is were my friends above came in If you decide to do it yourself order high end rotors, either American or English steel. Stay away from autozone type Chinese crap, you will just wind up with warped rotors in due time... ask me how I know 
A few extra dollars up front will pay in the backend 
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Posted: 3/22/2015 10:05:01 AM EDT
[#20]
I ordered from here had them in two days free shipping
I think they ship from Mass. http://http://www.1aauto.com/2005-toyota-corolla-brake-pad-and-rotor-kits/y-mo-c/2005-387-127 Good Luck site I order parts vid but not the right car 
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Posted: 3/22/2015 11:04:58 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Rockauto.com for the parts, they will be half the price of any local store, even with the cost of shipping. Been looking through their site but its a bit confusing and a bit daunting trying to figure out what are good parts (rotors, pads, calipers) to buy. There isn't much info or reviews on the parts so its hard to tell what is the cheap Chinese crap and what is decent quality stuff that won't break the bank. Not sure if going for a loaded caliper is the way to go or go with a semi loaded one and get a set of pads. Stupid question time for those who have done this before. I assume rotors do not come in pairs like the brake pads do (or at least did when I bought a set of Wagners a while back)? Where does one buy the plastic hose (and what size) to drain the brake fluid? Local automotive store or home depot/lowes? Would all four brakes have to be bled or just the two fronts when replacing the calipers? Been digging through various online videos and DIY's in an effort to decide if I do it myself or simply take it to a garage and have a pro do it. My problem and concern is that I only have one car so if I fuck this up and have to wait on parts or if I muck up the do it myself repair I'll be without a car. Not to mention the added cost of some extra tools like rubber mallet and jack stands. I hope if I do go this route that the car's scissor jack for replacing a tire will get the car raised up enough to use a set of cheap harbor freight jack stands. |
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Posted: 3/22/2015 11:13:23 AM EDT
[#22]
I think they got ya covered here but I have to chime in because I've been doing my own work for 30 years. Brakes are a big money maker for these people. Even if you replace pads and rotors yourself it's maybe a couple hundred bucks in parts. Calipers, usually you can grease the slider pins with caliper grease unless there is something wrong with the piston. Even if you had to replace them and bleed yourself, not a big deal. Invest in some tools and a floor jack. You'll be glad later. Don't let these vermin rip you off.
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Posted: 3/22/2015 11:46:04 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I think they got ya covered here but I have to chime in because I've been doing my own work for 30 years. Brakes are a big money maker for these people. Even if you replace pads and rotors yourself it's maybe a couple hundred bucks in parts. Calipers, usually you can grease the slider pins with caliper grease unless there is something wrong with the piston. Even if you had to replace them and bleed yourself, not a big deal. Invest in some tools and a floor jack. You'll be glad later. Don't let these vermin rip you off. A little harsh, no? He might need calipers. The car is 10 years old and has miles on it. Also a professional has to stand behind the work. If the caliper is questionable a pro will go with a replacement. Also you are paying for labor, typically in the $100/hr range. So if a technician has to spend an hour per side to clean rust and free up a frozen slide it is more cost effective to replace. Most shops will charge around 1.5hrs per wheel to do brakes with calipers. They also mark up parts. Just like anything. If you do it yourself you can save money. I can build a house for less than a carpenter will charge me. I can make a steak at home for a fraction of what a restaurant will charge. If you want a shop you can trust the diagnosis and repair to there have been many names mentioned here and the "other" site. If your car is not garaged you will find that the rust is pretty heavy. This can make removing parts a challenge. Especially if you snap a mounting bolt off. Then you are looking at a tow in addition to the extra labor. Most shops will not install customer supplied parts. That is akin to bringing your own food to a restaurant and asking them to cook it. |
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Posted: 3/22/2015 1:07:14 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
A little harsh, no? He might need calipers. The car is 10 years old and has miles on it. Also a professional has to stand behind the work. If the caliper is questionable a pro will go with a replacement. Also you are paying for labor, typically in the $100/hr range. So if a technician has to spend an hour per side to clean rust and free up a frozen slide it is more cost effective to replace. Most shops will charge around 1.5hrs per wheel to do brakes with calipers. They also mark up parts. Just like anything. If you do it yourself you can save money. I can build a house for less than a carpenter will charge me. I can make a steak at home for a fraction of what a restaurant will charge. If you want a shop you can trust the diagnosis and repair to there have been many names mentioned here and the "other" site. If your car is not garaged you will find that the rust is pretty heavy. This can make removing parts a challenge. Especially if you snap a mounting bolt off. Then you are looking at a tow in addition to the extra labor. Most shops will not install customer supplied parts. That is akin to bringing your own food to a restaurant and asking them to cook it. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I think they got ya covered here but I have to chime in because I've been doing my own work for 30 years. Brakes are a big money maker for these people. Even if you replace pads and rotors yourself it's maybe a couple hundred bucks in parts. Calipers, usually you can grease the slider pins with caliper grease unless there is something wrong with the piston. Even if you had to replace them and bleed yourself, not a big deal. Invest in some tools and a floor jack. You'll be glad later. Don't let these vermin rip you off. A little harsh, no? He might need calipers. The car is 10 years old and has miles on it. Also a professional has to stand behind the work. If the caliper is questionable a pro will go with a replacement. Also you are paying for labor, typically in the $100/hr range. So if a technician has to spend an hour per side to clean rust and free up a frozen slide it is more cost effective to replace. Most shops will charge around 1.5hrs per wheel to do brakes with calipers. They also mark up parts. Just like anything. If you do it yourself you can save money. I can build a house for less than a carpenter will charge me. I can make a steak at home for a fraction of what a restaurant will charge. If you want a shop you can trust the diagnosis and repair to there have been many names mentioned here and the "other" site. If your car is not garaged you will find that the rust is pretty heavy. This can make removing parts a challenge. Especially if you snap a mounting bolt off. Then you are looking at a tow in addition to the extra labor. Most shops will not install customer supplied parts. That is akin to bringing your own food to a restaurant and asking them to cook it. I'm going to have to side with Clint about brake jobs being a money maker, I had a sticky caliper and I flushed my fluid and all was well. The calipers are original to my truck which is 22+ years old. While it is not always the case I would say with a 10 year old vehicle with 62k on it I would try bleeding out the old fluid before replacing the calipers. |
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Posted: 3/22/2015 1:12:31 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
... I had a sticky caliper and I flushed my fluid and all was well. The calipers are original to my truck which is 22+ years old. While it is not always the case I would say with a 10 year old vehicle with 62k on it I would try bleeding out the old fluid before replacing the calipers. What are the indicators of a sticky caliper? How does one determine its stuck when they remove the caliper while changing out the pads and rotors? |
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Posted: 3/22/2015 1:19:03 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What are the indicators of a sticky caliper? How does one determine its stuck when they remove the caliper while changing out the pads and rotors? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
... I had a sticky caliper and I flushed my fluid and all was well. The calipers are original to my truck which is 22+ years old. While it is not always the case I would say with a 10 year old vehicle with 62k on it I would try bleeding out the old fluid before replacing the calipers. What are the indicators of a sticky caliper? How does one determine its stuck when they remove the caliper while changing out the pads and rotors? When trying to compress the piston into the caliper there will be ALOT of resistance, they should compress fairly easy. ETA: mine was so bad I could feel it while accelerating the car. I got it home one day and the pads were smoking hot, that's when I decided I should probably do something lol 
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Posted: 3/22/2015 2:27:58 PM EDT
[#27]
I'm seeing that some places charge a "core" charge and some don't on the calipers. Do people who order from online places like Rockauto really return stuff that is marked with a "core" charge? I'm wondering if the cost of shipping something like a caliper back, if I really have to replace it, will eat up the core charge refund. If that's the case I assume it is probably better to buy the caliper locally and return it locally for the core refund.
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Posted: 3/22/2015 2:42:29 PM EDT
[#28]
It really depends on how much the core charge is. You should call and gets prices for a part locally and compare to the prices on rockauto. Usually the "lowest grade part" locally is more expensive then a "high end part" on Rockauto.
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Posted: 3/22/2015 3:22:58 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It really depends on how much the core charge is. You should call and gets prices for a part locally and compare to the prices on rockauto. Usually the "lowest grade part" locally is more expensive then a "high end part" on Rockauto. Shit rockauto is $55.00 more than I paid and I did not check out shipping charge |
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Posted: 3/22/2015 3:25:22 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'm seeing that some places charge a "core" charge and some don't on the calipers. Do people who order from online places like Rockauto really return stuff that is marked with a "core" charge? I'm wondering if the cost of shipping something like a caliper back, if I really have to replace it, will eat up the core charge refund. If that's the case I assume it is probably better to buy the caliper locally and return it locally for the core refund. Pretty sure that you get a return label when you buy from rock auto with a core charge |
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Posted: 3/22/2015 3:49:24 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Pretty sure that you get a return label when you buy from rock auto with a core charge Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I'm seeing that some places charge a "core" charge and some don't on the calipers. Do people who order from online places like Rockauto really return stuff that is marked with a "core" charge? I'm wondering if the cost of shipping something like a caliper back, if I really have to replace it, will eat up the core charge refund. If that's the case I assume it is probably better to buy the caliper locally and return it locally for the core refund. Pretty sure that you get a return label when you buy from rock auto with a core charge Doesn't appear so, per their policies page: "Shipping charges on cores aren't refundable. (Before sending back a core, you'll need to decide if the core deposit is worth the shipping cost.) As with any return, before returning a core you must obtain and follow return instructions from our Order Status & Returns page or via email." That's why I wondered how many actually spend the money to return in order to get the core charge refunded. If I do end up ordering an item from them with a core charge I guess I'll find out. |
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Posted: 3/22/2015 3:51:05 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Been looking through their site but its a bit confusing and a bit daunting trying to figure out what are good parts (rotors, pads, calipers) to buy. There isn't much info or reviews on the parts so its hard to tell what is the cheap Chinese crap and what is decent quality stuff that won't break the bank. Not sure if going for a loaded caliper is the way to go or go with a semi loaded one and get a set of pads. Stupid question time for those who have done this before. I assume rotors do not come in pairs like the brake pads do (or at least did when I bought a set of Wagners a while back)? Where does one buy the plastic hose (and what size) to drain the brake fluid? Local automotive store or home depot/lowes? Would all four brakes have to be bled or just the two fronts when replacing the calipers? Been digging through various online videos and DIY's in an effort to decide if I do it myself or simply take it to a garage and have a pro do it. My problem and concern is that I only have one car so if I fuck this up and have to wait on parts or if I muck up the do it myself repair I'll be without a car. Not to mention the added cost of some extra tools like rubber mallet and jack stands. I hope if I do go this route that the car's scissor jack for replacing a tire will get the car raised up enough to use a set of cheap harbor freight jack stands. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Rockauto.com for the parts, they will be half the price of any local store, even with the cost of shipping. Been looking through their site but its a bit confusing and a bit daunting trying to figure out what are good parts (rotors, pads, calipers) to buy. There isn't much info or reviews on the parts so its hard to tell what is the cheap Chinese crap and what is decent quality stuff that won't break the bank. Not sure if going for a loaded caliper is the way to go or go with a semi loaded one and get a set of pads. Stupid question time for those who have done this before. I assume rotors do not come in pairs like the brake pads do (or at least did when I bought a set of Wagners a while back)? Where does one buy the plastic hose (and what size) to drain the brake fluid? Local automotive store or home depot/lowes? Would all four brakes have to be bled or just the two fronts when replacing the calipers? Been digging through various online videos and DIY's in an effort to decide if I do it myself or simply take it to a garage and have a pro do it. My problem and concern is that I only have one car so if I fuck this up and have to wait on parts or if I muck up the do it myself repair I'll be without a car. Not to mention the added cost of some extra tools like rubber mallet and jack stands. I hope if I do go this route that the car's scissor jack for replacing a tire will get the car raised up enough to use a set of cheap harbor freight jack stands. Rotors come in pairs. When shopping online it will either say pair or each. Look at EBC rotors they are American or English steel , it just depends on the lot. They are high quality and don't cost all that much more. I want to say I spent roughly 100$ shipped to my house for 2 front rotors. |
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Posted: 3/22/2015 4:17:21 PM EDT
[#33]
Quoted:
Posted this same question over on CTGT but figured not everyone goes to that site. Anyone know of any good places in the New Haven area to get brakes serviced and or replaced? Toyota dealership claimed I need new front pads, rotors and calipers and wants an obscene amount of money to replace them, about $900. Monroe wasn't much better, about $850. Meineke who also inspected the car said the same (front pads, rotors, calipers), was the cheapest at $680 but not wild about using them. Car is a 2005 Corolla with 62,000 miles on it. Anderson Automotive on 34 in West Haven by Harte Nissan. They are very honest. Been going there for years. |
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Posted: 3/22/2015 4:26:46 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Rotors come in pairs. When shopping online it will either say pair or each. Look at EBC rotors they are American or English steel , it just depends on the lot. They are high quality and don't cost all that much more. I want to say I spent roughly 100$ shipped to my house for 2 front rotors. Rockauto doesn't have any EBC rotors listed for the Corolla. In looking around its hard to tell if any of the rotor manufacturers make their rotors in the USA. Was looking at the WAGNER Part # BD126017E {#BD126017} rotors among a few others. Again its hard to tell what is good and what isn't because there are no reviews and the numbers Rockauto use to identify parts don't necessarily match elsewhere. Will probably go with the WAGNER Part # QC923 ThermoQuiet Pads which seems to get decent reviews. |
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Posted: 3/22/2015 7:32:20 PM EDT
[#35]
Like I have said before. If you flush your fluid every two years your brake components will last much longer. Also when you do a "brake job" you should open the bleeder then push the piston back. This will prevent you from pushing the rust and crap back up to the master cylinders. Many times this will iill a master cylinder. Also when you push the piston back without opening the bleeder you will more than likely push enough fluid that the master cylinder becomes overfull and you have a mess.
Brake fluid will remove paint so be careful. Do one side at a time. if you don't you can pop the piston out of the caliper on the opposite side. This is a huge mess. Be sure to lubricate the slides. and pad contact points where they sit in the bracket. Once you have the new calipers installed open both bleeders and let fluid run out until you do not see air bubbles and the fluid is clean. Then top off the master. Once you have gravity bled the brakes have a second person assist with bleeding. You open the bleeder then have the person press the pedal lightly and steady. Close the bleeder and then release the pedal. Do this until no more air comes out and the fluid is clean. Use a piece of clear tubing. Typically 3/16" fits most bleeders. Put the other end in a bottle . Do NOT reuse brake fluid. Make sure to keep checking the master cylinder. if that goes dry you have a headache on your hands. Use Dot 4 brake fluid. Do NOT use DOT 5. DOT 5 fluid is silicone and is not compatible. I would bleed the rears too. Do the same thing as the front. When you have nice clean fluid you are done. Old brake fluid is bad for the metal and for stopping ability. EDIT: Rotors are almost always sold individually. Some of the cheap Chinese knockoffs are sold in pairs. |
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Posted: 3/22/2015 8:39:49 PM EDT
[#36]
I agree bleeding every couple years is a good idea but few people do it.
And with the stuff sprayed on the roads now, the calipers are rusting from the outside-in first...Generally what happens is the saline death mix gets stuck in the caliper "cup" and rots it out. Almost impossible to hose that out too to prevent that... :( Also seen a ton of brake-pad failures recently from corrosion where the pad material is actually separating from the backing plate due to rot... Terrible stuff. Can't imagine how fast the bridges are rotting now. |
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Posted: 3/23/2015 7:34:29 AM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Like I have said before. If you flush your fluid every two years your brake components will last much longer. Also when you do a "brake job" you should open the bleeder then push the piston back. This will prevent you from pushing the rust and crap back up to the master cylinders. Many times this will iill a master cylinder. Also when you push the piston back without opening the bleeder you will more than likely push enough fluid that the master cylinder becomes overfull and you have a mess. Brake fluid will remove paint so be careful. Do one side at a time. if you don't you can pop the piston out of the caliper on the opposite side. This is a huge mess. Be sure to lubricate the slides. and pad contact points where they sit in the bracket. Once you have the new calipers installed open both bleeders and let fluid run out until you do not see air bubbles and the fluid is clean. Then top off the master. Once you have gravity bled the brakes have a second person assist with bleeding. You open the bleeder then have the person press the pedal lightly and steady. Close the bleeder and then release the pedal. Do this until no more air comes out and the fluid is clean. Use a piece of clear tubing. Typically 3/16" fits most bleeders. Put the other end in a bottle . Do NOT reuse brake fluid. Make sure to keep checking the master cylinder. if that goes dry you have a headache on your hands. Use Dot 4 brake fluid. Do NOT use DOT 5. DOT 5 fluid is silicone and is not compatible. I would bleed the rears too. Do the same thing as the front. When you have nice clean fluid you are done. Old brake fluid is bad for the metal and for stopping ability. EDIT: Rotors are almost always sold individually. Some of the cheap Chinese knockoffs are sold in pairs. Going to wait on replacing the calipers to see if the existing ones are really bad or if a brake flush in addition to cleaning and relubing the sliding pins solves it. When I talked to the Toyota dealership that's what they said they would try first before replacing the entire caliper. Did order pads and rotors from Rockauto last night along with a water pump (and some other stuff). Did get hosed on the shipping because the parts are coming from two different warehouses. The second warehouse order tacked on $15 or so in shipping charges. But that will be partially offset by a manufacturer's rebate on the pads. The rotors were listed as individual, but unless someone knew that ahead of time or clicked on the "info" link for the product when ordering from the Rockauto's site they wouldn't know that. They might assume like with brake pads that it comes as a set of two. For my car Toyota doesn't recommend flushing the brakes every few years for what ever reason. Going to make a one man brake bleed bottle as described in this Youtube video to replace the brake fluid and bleed the brakes. Will probably be using a jug of DOT 3 & 4 fluid from NAPA for the brake fluid. |
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Posted: 3/23/2015 7:37:26 AM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Terrible stuff. Can't imagine how fast the bridges are rotting now. Because "shovel ready jobs".
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Posted: 3/23/2015 7:41:21 AM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Going to wait on replacing the calipers to see if the existing ones are really bad or if a brake flush in addition to cleaning and relubing the sliding pins solves it. When I talked to the Toyota dealership that's what they said they would try first before replacing the entire caliper. Did order pads and rotors from Rockauto last night along with a water pump (and some other stuff). Did get hosed on the shipping because the parts are coming from two different warehouses. The second warehouse order tacked on $15 or so in shipping charges. But that will be partially offset by a manufacturer's rebate on the pads. The rotors were listed as individual, but unless someone knew that ahead of time or clicked on the "info" link for the product when ordering from the Rockauto's site they wouldn't know that. They might assume like with brake pads that it comes as a set of two. For my car Toyota doesn't recommend flushing the brakes every few years for what ever reason. Going to make a one man brake bleed bottle as described in this Youtube video to replace the brake fluid and bleed the brakes. Will probably be using a jug of DOT 3 & 4 fluid from NAPA for the brake fluid. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Like I have said before. If you flush your fluid every two years your brake components will last much longer. Also when you do a "brake job" you should open the bleeder then push the piston back. This will prevent you from pushing the rust and crap back up to the master cylinders. Many times this will iill a master cylinder. Also when you push the piston back without opening the bleeder you will more than likely push enough fluid that the master cylinder becomes overfull and you have a mess. Brake fluid will remove paint so be careful. Do one side at a time. if you don't you can pop the piston out of the caliper on the opposite side. This is a huge mess. Be sure to lubricate the slides. and pad contact points where they sit in the bracket. Once you have the new calipers installed open both bleeders and let fluid run out until you do not see air bubbles and the fluid is clean. Then top off the master. Once you have gravity bled the brakes have a second person assist with bleeding. You open the bleeder then have the person press the pedal lightly and steady. Close the bleeder and then release the pedal. Do this until no more air comes out and the fluid is clean. Use a piece of clear tubing. Typically 3/16" fits most bleeders. Put the other end in a bottle . Do NOT reuse brake fluid. Make sure to keep checking the master cylinder. if that goes dry you have a headache on your hands. Use Dot 4 brake fluid. Do NOT use DOT 5. DOT 5 fluid is silicone and is not compatible. I would bleed the rears too. Do the same thing as the front. When you have nice clean fluid you are done. Old brake fluid is bad for the metal and for stopping ability. EDIT: Rotors are almost always sold individually. Some of the cheap Chinese knockoffs are sold in pairs. Going to wait on replacing the calipers to see if the existing ones are really bad or if a brake flush in addition to cleaning and relubing the sliding pins solves it. When I talked to the Toyota dealership that's what they said they would try first before replacing the entire caliper. Did order pads and rotors from Rockauto last night along with a water pump (and some other stuff). Did get hosed on the shipping because the parts are coming from two different warehouses. The second warehouse order tacked on $15 or so in shipping charges. But that will be partially offset by a manufacturer's rebate on the pads. The rotors were listed as individual, but unless someone knew that ahead of time or clicked on the "info" link for the product when ordering from the Rockauto's site they wouldn't know that. They might assume like with brake pads that it comes as a set of two. For my car Toyota doesn't recommend flushing the brakes every few years for what ever reason. Going to make a one man brake bleed bottle as described in this Youtube video to replace the brake fluid and bleed the brakes. Will probably be using a jug of DOT 3 & 4 fluid from NAPA for the brake fluid. My advice would be to go to autozone or napa and see if you can rent a vacuum bleeder, if they do not have rentals they have them for purchase and IIRC they're only in the $30-$40 range. If you can rent them they chrage you X amount and then when it is returned you get the full amount back. Here is the exact one I have, it has been great to me. They have more uses than bleeding brakes too. Vacuum bleeder 
One of those will make the world of a difference, I use to bleed my brakes the same way as bikerman, but now, I will never go back to the old way. You pop that thing on open the valve suck the old fluid out (making sure the master cylinder never goes dry). ETA: video
I don't remove my wheels I just jack up the car and put it on some jack stands and lay under it, JACK STANDS ARE VERY IMPORTANT!! NEVER TRUST A JACK ALONE!! |
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Posted: 3/23/2015 12:41:44 PM EDT
[#40]
I use Russel Speed Bleeders - they replace the stock bleeder and it makes brake bleeding a one man job
http://www.jegs.com/p/Russell/Russell-Speed-Bleeders/744478/10002/-1 |
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Posted: 3/23/2015 6:04:38 PM EDT
[#41]
For those who have replaced the brake pads/rotors themselves, have you guys used a torque wrench? In some of the DIY's I'm reading they talk about using a torque wrench to tighten bolts to a certain foot/pound. Is a torque wrench really needed? If so is there a good place to get one, in 1/4 inch, at a low price? Harbor Freight has some but they get generally poor reviews and the ft/lbs ones are 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch, my socket sets are all 1/4 inch. If they make an adapter 1/2->1/4 I supposed I could use that in a pinch and hope I don' break the adapter.
What about using anti-seize on the various bolts used to mount the caliper and the mounting bracket? I'm seeing mixed opinions on that. |
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Posted: 3/23/2015 6:22:34 PM EDT
[#42]
I bought the harbor freight torque wrench, piece of shit. Its not necessary if you have somewhat of a mechanical sense and knew when something is tight but not ready to strip.
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Posted: 3/23/2015 6:31:59 PM EDT
[#43]
I did not use a torque wrench when reassambling
but to break the bolts took doubling up box end wrench and on some bolts tapping with a hammer |
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Posted: 3/23/2015 8:54:32 PM EDT
[#44]
Looks like Autozone, Pep Boys and Advanced Auto Parts all have a "rent a tool" program where you can take certain tools (like breaker bars and torque wrenches for example) out on loan for a deposit. It doesn't appear they will rent the socket(s) though so one would have to already own a set of sockets or buy the sockets if they rented the breaker bar or torque wrench. It appears they generally have the torque wrench in 3/4 and 1/2 inch size. May end up going the rent a tool route for the torque wrench and just buy a set of 1/2 inch sockets to go with the 1/2 inch breaker bar I already have.
http://www.autozone.com/landing/page.jsp?name=loan-a-tool http://www.pepboys.com/parts/tools/ http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/o/storeservices |
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Posted: 3/23/2015 9:36:22 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Looks like Autozone, Pep Boys and Advanced Auto Parts all have a "rent a tool" program where you can take certain tools (like breaker bars and torque wrenches for example) out on loan for a deposit. It doesn't appear they will rent the socket(s) though so one would have to already own a set of sockets or buy the sockets if they rented the breaker bar or torque wrench. It appears they generally have the torque wrench in 3/4 and 1/2 inch size. May end up going the rent a tool route for the torque wrench and just buy a set of 1/2 inch sockets to go with the 1/2 inch breaker bar I already have. http://www.autozone.com/landing/page.jsp?name=loan-a-tool http://www.pepboys.com/parts/tools/ http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/o/storeservices I used these rental tools and they helped in making the job easier. |
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Posted: 3/23/2015 10:14:33 PM EDT
[#46]
That mityvac pictured above it awesome if you're doing a couple jobs a year. I wrap the bleed screws in Teflon tape to help prevent sucking air in through the threads (and making it difficult to tell that from actual air in the lines).
Antiseize everything with a thin coat. Every fastener. Yeah torque values don't take a lubricant into account... but I've never had a bolt back out in 30 years. Torque wrenches are great if you can get them to work in the confined spaces you'll be in. General rule with brake stuff is really tight and recheck in a few hundred miles. Generally you don't need one for basic brake work. Few more mandatory things for garage brake jobs in the rust belt: Liquid Wrench (applied copiously the day before and of surgery), a propane torch with a pencil tip, a length of pipe you can slip over the 1/2 wrench handle for leverage. A 1/2 breaker bar. A 2.5 pound steel mallet, aka the Persuader. Two stainless steel wire brushes of different sizes for scrubbing crap/cleaning fasteners. |
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Posted: 3/26/2015 1:13:05 PM EDT
[#47]
FedEx guy didn't look happy having to shlep the rotors (32 pounds of them) from his truck to my door.
What do folks do with the old rotors? Scrap yard? Toss in trash pickup recycle bin? What about the water pump? Scrap yard that too or just toss in recycle bin? The old brake pads (ceramic) I assume I can just toss in the trash. |
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Posted: 3/26/2015 1:53:18 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
FedEx guy didn't look happy having to shlep the rotors (32 pounds of them) from his truck to my door.
What do folks do with the old rotors? Scrap yard? Toss in trash pickup recycle bin? What about the water pump? Scrap yard that too or just toss in recycle bin? The old brake pads (ceramic) I assume I can just toss in the trash. I just toss my just parts in the trash. $/lb is probably not worth bringing them to the scrap yard unless you're swaping an engine or something.. |
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Posted: 3/26/2015 11:35:02 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I just toss my just parts in the trash. $/lb is probably not worth bringing them to the scrap yard unless you're swaping an engine or something.. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
FedEx guy didn't look happy having to shlep the rotors (32 pounds of them) from his truck to my door.
What do folks do with the old rotors? Scrap yard? Toss in trash pickup recycle bin? What about the water pump? Scrap yard that too or just toss in recycle bin? The old brake pads (ceramic) I assume I can just toss in the trash. I just toss my just parts in the trash. $/lb is probably not worth bringing them to the scrap yard unless you're swaping an engine or something.. Jesus Christ you're asking on a shooting forum what to do with old rotors? 200+ yards my man.... Some make a wonderful ring if hung correctly. Everything else in the trash. |
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Posted: 3/26/2015 11:51:07 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I posted in CTGuntalk too. If you are willing to drive to Cheshire my brother has a shop. I seriously doubt the car needs calipers. PM or email me. What's your bros shop? IM me if you want |
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