ONLY A TRAINED GUNSMITH SHOULD ATTEMPT ANYTHING IN THIS POST
USE THIS INFORMATION @ YOUR OWN RISK!!
well i've done the research, so i might as well share what i've learned:
i'll start with some essential info, then lay things out in the order i plan to do them.
exploded views for assembly/disassembly
link
how the trigger group parts interact
link
1) "stoning the hammer" to reduce trigger pull to the desired weight
link
i made this the first point b/c it lightens the trigger pull and should probably be attempted before any of the stuff below. in this method u basically file down one side of the notch in your hammer (see link for pics). u file it down gradually to slowly decrease the amount of tension required to fire the gun. if u go too far, you'll make the gun inoperable and usafe. USE EXTREME CAUTION! if you're scared, you can buy an aftermarket hammer that's already got this done from manufacturers like Volquartsen or RT (
link to lots of goodies for the rich and/or lazy )
2) the "jb weld trick"
link
this trick removes the excessive take up in the factory trigger without reducing trigger pull weight (it shortens the first part of your trigger pull). it costs about $5 and takes about 20 minutes of work and 1 day of cure time.
another example of the jb weld trick to remove the take-up in the stock trigger
this method can be done by purchasing a new sear with a set screw in it. if my memory serves these sears are available @ the link in point #1"stoning the hammer". or if you're brave you can drill and tap your factory sear with a set screw to accomplish the same result. i've also seen the take up on both ends of the trigger pull done with 2 different set screws drilled and tapped into the actual receiver that houses the trigger group. sorry no links available @ this time for these methods, but i did see them on that rimfirecentral.com forum somewhere
3) polishing the hammer, sear, disconnector, & trigger return plunger
link
this link shows excellent before and after pics of the surfaces to be polished. this mod will provide a smoother trigger pull, reduce the weight of the trigger pull, and will aide shooting subsonic ammo, especially if you've altered any springs in your trigger group.
4) the "set screw method" to remove trigger over-travel, aka takes out the slack not addressed by point #2 "the jb weld trick"
link
i'll provide more info & updates when i have time, feel free to post if u see errors or have anything to add from personal experience. i purposely did not copy and paste the info or pics so as not to leech bandwidth and to provide credit to the original posters. thanks and enjoy
eta:
update:
Volquartsen makes an adjustable trigger i've been thinking of purchasing, or drill/tap my factory trigger in similar fashion
also, Power Custom makes an adjustable sear i've been looking @, or i could drill/tap my factory sear as well.
these parts have an adjustment screw in them. the
Power Custom adj sear shortens trigger engagement (trigger take-up, the beginning of the trigger pull, aka creep). the adjustable sear would be an alternative to the "jb weld trick"
the
Volquartsen adj trigger takes care of the latter part of the trigger pull