User Panel
Here is the latest from Brownells on the A1 lowers and 20" 1/7 A1 barrel assemblies.
Cliff, Thank you for contacting Brownells in regards to backorder. It appears these items 100-021-012 AR-15 20" A1 RIFLE BARREL 1-7 ASSY and 080-001-304 AR15 BRN-16A1 LOWER RECEIVER are still out of stock. We are anticipating, but no guarantees, that these items will be available by the end of July. We do apologize for any inconvenience this may have caused. If you have any additional questions, feel free to contact Customer Service at 1-800-741-0015. Thank you for shopping with Brownells! Sincerely, Ryan |
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Yeah, I was afraid of that. Lucky for me, I have a backup plan. The assembly is out of stock, but so far the barrels themselves are still in stock. I managed to piece together a list of the parts in the assembly as a second way out, and costs about 2 dollars more.
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Here is the latest from Brownells on the A1 lowers and 20" 1/7 A1 barrel assemblies. Cliff, Thank you for contacting Brownells in regards to backorder. It appears these items 100-021-012 AR-15 20" A1 RIFLE BARREL 1-7 ASSY and 080-001-304 AR15 BRN-16A1 LOWER RECEIVER are still out of stock. We are anticipating, but no guarantees, that these items will be available by the end of July. We do apologize for any inconvenience this may have caused. If you have any additional questions, feel free to contact Customer Service at 1-800-741-0015. Thank you for shopping with Brownells! Sincerely, Ryan View Quote |
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Yeah, I was afraid of that. Lucky for me, I have a backup plan. The assembly is out of stock, but so far the barrels themselves are still in stock. I managed to piece together a list of the parts in the assembly as a second way out, and costs about 2 dollars more. View Quote |
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Yeah, I was afraid of that. Lucky for me, I have a backup plan. The assembly is out of stock, but so far the barrels themselves are still in stock. I managed to piece together a list of the parts in the assembly as a second way out, and costs about 2 dollars more. View Quote |
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That's for a 1/7 Twist, I wonder if the 1/12's are going to take the same amount of time. Personally, I'd prefer the 1/12 and if not that, then the 1/9. View Quote I really want the ability to shoot 77 grain though. |
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if I'm not mistaken, all it takes is tapping in a couple taper pins to attach it to the barrel. I've seen several people do it on youtube (including the brownells guide) and it looks easy enough. Is there a catch to it?
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if I'm not mistaken, all it takes is tapping in a couple taper pins to attach it to the barrel. I've seen several people do it on youtube (including the brownells guide) and it looks easy enough. Is there a catch to it? View Quote |
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if I'm not mistaken, all it takes is tapping in a couple taper pins to attach it to the barrel. I've seen several people do it on youtube (including the brownells guide) and it looks easy enough. Is there a catch to it? View Quote |
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Retro prices have really gone up, as available stocks of parts decrease. When I built my SP1 Carbine clone, I spent $300 just for the barrel, but it was a Colt 6420 1/7 twist chrome lined pencil barrel. Everything on the Carbine is Colt, except the stripped Nodak Spud 601 lower receiver. The buffer is a Colt H buffer, and the tube is a Colt 4 position with an N marked Fiberite Colt stock. Even the handguards are early shiny Colt 6 hole.
I did it one piece at a time, sometimes using aftermarket parts as placeholders. By doing that, I was able to shop for good deals. Even at that, I am north of $1000 to $1100 on the SP1 Carbine clone. But, you want to talk expensive retro - ArmaLite AR-180! I gave $1100 for my Costa Mesa made one back in 2011. That was steep for the times (with Howa and Sterlings going for $900 + or -), but considering it was a low serial number, Costa Mesa built in 99.9% shape with 4 mags, I thought it was still a good deal. It would easily be $1600 now. |
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...not exactly the most idea thing in the world, but I don't think it'll cost too much to have that done.
I did break down and decided to spend the extra money on the A1 lower from brownells, and here's why. All the coatings I see (moly resin, cerakote, etc) all require the parts to be blasted. I don't have any access to that, and by the time I'd have the parts shipped off to be anodized or coated or whatever, I might as well have bought the matching parts. It'll cost me about 200 bucks when it's all said and done, but....well, I don't have much choice. |
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...not exactly the most idea thing in the world, but I don't think it'll cost too much to have that done. I did break down and decided to spend the extra money on the A1 lower from brownells, and here's why. All the coatings I see (moly resin, cerakote, etc) all require the parts to be blasted. I don't have any access to that, and by the time I'd have the parts shipped off to be anodized or coated or whatever, I might as well have bought the matching parts. It'll cost me about 200 bucks when it's all said and done, but....well, I don't have much choice. View Quote |
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...not exactly the most idea thing in the world, but I don't think it'll cost too much to have that done. I did break down and decided to spend the extra money on the A1 lower from brownells, and here's why. All the coatings I see (moly resin, cerakote, etc) all require the parts to be blasted. I don't have any access to that, and by the time I'd have the parts shipped off to be anodized or coated or whatever, I might as well have bought the matching parts. It'll cost me about 200 bucks when it's all said and done, but....well, I don't have much choice. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
...not exactly the most idea thing in the world, but I don't think it'll cost too much to have that done. I did break down and decided to spend the extra money on the A1 lower from brownells, and here's why. All the coatings I see (moly resin, cerakote, etc) all require the parts to be blasted. I don't have any access to that, and by the time I'd have the parts shipped off to be anodized or coated or whatever, I might as well have bought the matching parts. It'll cost me about 200 bucks when it's all said and done, but....well, I don't have much choice. As for the barrel, you should check around on what it would cost to have a front sight mounted for you. Don't just go by 'I don't think it'll cost too much', I don't know what a gunsmith charges, but I would assume off the top of my head, at least $75 to $100 (purely a guess on my part, I have no idea what it would cost). It may seem like a 'simple, easy' thing to do, but you're paying for someone's skill and experience. Plus, if you're shipping it to someone, you'll pay shipping both ways and that adds money to it. Maybe call a local gun shop and ask if they have a gunsmith that they recommend. Or maybe there's someone here that does it and can give you an idea of cost. Quoted:
Just in case you didn't know. If you are going to be using a Brownells A1 upper receiver they are black and not XM Gray like an original Colt or even the ones NoDak Spud offers directly. The Brownells A1 upper receivers match most black A2 lower receivers pretty well. An A1 lower receiver is still the best choice for a correct build but if you are only buying one because of color you don't really have to. And the Brownells A1 lower receivers are black so even if you were to use an original Colt upper receiver it will not match. Having it black would bug me too much. It would be like buying the jersey of your favorite NFL player, but having it on a CFL teams jersey. True, it's still your favorite players name and number, but it's not the right team (or league) lol. |
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Seriously? Their uppers and lowers are black? Huh, they ought to change their pictures then... I'll likely wind up ordering the upper first and go from there.
At the end of the day, I honestly don't mind if it's black or grey, so long as the color scheme is consistent. I like both colors equally. Big thing for me is that they match, or are real close to each other. A grey upper and black lower would kill me. VaBeachGuy, For the parts you mentioned It would be about..... 505. Brownells upper, windham bcg (complete), rear sight kit and 3 prong flash hider from fulton, and the $148 furniture kit I mentioned earlier. One idea I toyed with. If I wound up buying the USGI furniture, I'd want to 'restore' them as best as possible. I've used Krylon fusion satin black paint on both my front and rear bumpers with great success, so I'd think that would be suitable here. To fill in any gouges or cracks, I was considering some type of epoxy or JB quickset...maybe even 'bondo'. Sand smooth and paint. |
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Seriously? Their uppers and lowers are black? Huh, they ought to change their pictures then... I'll likely wind up ordering the upper first and go from there. At the end of the day, I honestly don't mind if it's black or grey, so long as the color scheme is consistent. I like both colors equally. Big thing for me is that they match, or are real close to each other. A grey upper and black lower would kill me. VaBeachGuy, For the parts you mentioned It would be about..... 755. Brownells upper and barrel assembly, windham bcg (complete), rear sight kit and 3 prong flash hider from fulton, and the $148 furniture kit I mentioned earlier. One idea I toyed with. If I wound up buying the USGI furniture, I'd want to 'restore' them as best as possible. I've used Krylon fusion satin black paint on both my front and rear bumpers with great success, so I'd think that would be suitable here. To fill in any gouges or cracks, I was considering some type of epoxy or JB quickset...maybe even 'bondo'. Sand smooth and paint. View Quote I'll be ordering a parts kit, probably within the next hour actually, and I know there will be several things in it that I won't use. So I'll end up selling them. Like the front sight base, the birdcage, the fcg and the stock. The stock will be a type E (trap door stock), and since I'm going with a 3 prong, the type E would be out of place. I don't know what I'll get for the sold items, but whatever I get will just reduce the overall price of the kit ($700). I'll be very pleased if that's in the $200 neighborhood. |
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Black or grey, as long as the finish holds up and within a few shades of one another, fine by me. I'm not patient either, so I'll likely pass on the spuds. I'll have to think about which receiver I'll do, and actually have the upper in my hands when I do place my order.
If you sell the M16 FCG, do you plan on cutting them down to semi-auto only or selling them as-is? I'd be really leerie of messing with F/A parts. You should post pics of the kit you get when it comes in, btw. That's something I'd be interested in seeing, and I'm sure a few other members would agree |
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Did a little searching, and a local gunshop does gunsmithing that isn't too far away from me. Maybe a 20 minute drive. I'm going to drop by on friday during an outing and inquire about a ballpark figure. The parts are useless to me without someone who can put 'em together. I wish I could do it myself, but these hands can't use a regular drill and be within hopes of accurate. Maybe I'll get lucky and find it's already drilled for the taper pins. We'll see.
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Did a little searching, and a local gunshop does gunsmithing that isn't too far away from me. Maybe a 20 minute drive. I'm going to drop by on friday during an outing and inquire about a ballpark figure. The parts are useless to me without someone who can put 'em together. I wish I could do it myself, but these hands can't use a regular drill and be within hopes of accurate. Maybe I'll get lucky and find it's already drilled for the taper pins. We'll see. View Quote |
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250-280 is about max, definitely no more than 300. I'm willing to wait for the brownells assembly, mainly because I want as many parts as possible from the same manufacturer/maker. I'm not a big fan of mixing and matching brands, as everyone has their own tolerances and processes, etc.
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250-280 is about max, definitely no more than 300. I'm willing to wait for the brownells assembly, mainly because I want as many parts as possible from the same manufacturer/maker. I'm not a big fan of mixing and matching brands, as everyone has their own tolerances and processes, etc. View Quote |
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Yeah, I noticed that. I don't plan on starting until 2018, simply because I need to focus on new tires before winter (my bad) and also some other options.
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Yeah, I noticed that. I don't plan on starting until 2018, simply because I need to focus on new tires before winter (my bad) and also some other options. View Quote |
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I considered that, but I think I like the idea of the black upper and lower. Here's why.
For one thing, I seriously love the color black. Almost everything I own is black, including a ton of my clothes. But, more importantly, I like the idea of a couple things being unique to this rifle. Even though black is incorrect as well as the flashhider I plan to use for an M16A1 clone with trapdoor stock, it's those little preferences that, in my eyes, separates it enough from being "Oh look, another clone" to being "Hey, that's his clone" without going so far into the realm of "Did he not pay attention to half of it?". What I think I'll do is leave the lower receiver for last. I am leaning towards the style of the A1 lower, but my wallet likes the A2 more. (My wallet doesn't like this hobby at all, truth be told) What I'll do is assemble the upper and swap it over onto my Windham's A2 lower and see how I like the A2 with A1 matchup. This would also give me a good opportunity to function check everything before proceeding further. I likely will fight the urge to cheap out and will wind up with the A1 lower, because somewhere in me is still a perfectionist. I definitely will purchase the furniture set first and swap it onto my Windham to mess with while I start getting parts on the way and assembling. |
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I considered that, but I think I like the idea of the black upper and lower. Here's why. For one thing, I seriously love the color black. Almost everything I own is black, including a ton of my clothes. But, more importantly, I like the idea of a couple things being unique to this rifle. Even though black is incorrect as well as the flashhider I plan to use for an M16A1 clone with trapdoor stock, it's those little preferences that, in my eyes, separates it enough from being "Oh look, another clone" to being "Hey, that's his clone" without going so far into the realm of "Did he not pay attention to half of it?". What I think I'll do is leave the lower receiver for last. I am leaning towards the style of the A1 lower, but my wallet likes the A2 more. (My wallet doesn't like this hobby at all, truth be told) What I'll do is assemble the upper and swap it over onto my Windham's A2 lower and see how I like the A2 with A1 matchup. This would also give me a good opportunity to function check everything before proceeding further. I likely will fight the urge to cheap out and will wind up with the A1 lower, because somewhere in me is still a perfectionist. I definitely will purchase the furniture set first and swap it onto my Windham to mess with while I start getting parts on the way and assembling. View Quote I'm working on my 4th since 2014. My A1, I have an A2, an M4 and now the XM16E1. I may wind up selling the M4 in favor of building an XM177E2 though. |
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Something I always liked about the early M16 models was a nice, shiney, BCG. However, I cannot find a chrome BCG like they would have had. I can find the carrier, albeit match grade with the price tag to match. What I can find everywhere though are nickel boron BCGs. I've never seen nickel boron or chrome bcgs in person, however, so I'm not sure how close they appear in appearance. Would I, visually, be able to get away with a Nickel Boron BCG? Seems a little sacrilegeous, but it won't be a 100% copy from the get-go.
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Something I always liked about the early M16 models was a nice, shiney, BCG. However, I cannot find a chrome BCG like they would have had. I can find the carrier, albeit match grade with the price tag to match. What I can find everywhere though are nickel boron BCGs. I've never seen nickel boron or chrome bcgs in person, however, so I'm not sure how close they appear in appearance. Would I, visually, be able to get away with a Nickel Boron BCG? Seems a little sacrilegeous, but it won't be a 100% copy from the get-go. View Quote |
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Awesome link. That's actually cheaper than the Windham BCG I would have used.
Beautiful rifle btw. Thanks for including the parts list, too. I may just have to swap out a few pieces here and there. |
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Awesome link. That's actually cheaper than the Windham BCG I would have used. Beautiful rifle btw. Thanks for including the parts list, too. I may just have to swap out a few pieces here and there. View Quote I just noticed you can't actually see the links I put on there. Upper, lower, and barrel came from Brownell's. The furniture came from Indiana Army Surplus, and everything else came from Amherst Depot. |
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That helps, lol. After I finally get started on mine (around black friday or so / early 2018) I'll be sure to post links and whatnot to what parts I wind up with, plus progression pics as I go.
EDIT: Decided to total up the build again after swapping some parts out. 894. The 3 prong muzzle device + lock washer, chromed BCG, and rear sight assembly (used, but still cheaper than fulton) are coming from ar15sport, and the shipping they want is added into the final price. I have not added shipping to the brownells parts, as in 2018 I plan on purchasing the 'edge' program. Decided to swap the charging handle from the brownells model to the Windham model for an extra 5 bucks. I'm going to continue 'tuning' and re-edit with the result. |
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That helps, lol. After I finally get started on mine (around black friday or so / early 2018) I'll be sure to post links and whatnot to what parts I wind up with, plus progression pics as I go. EDIT: Decided to total up the build again after swapping some parts out. 894. The 3 prong muzzle device + lock washer, chromed BCG, and rear sight assembly (used, but still cheaper than fulton) are coming from ar15sport, and the shipping they want is added into the final price. I have not added shipping to the brownells parts, as in 2018 I plan on purchasing the 'edge' program. Decided to swap the charging handle from the brownells model to the Windham model for an extra 5 bucks. I'm going to continue 'tuning' and re-edit with the result. View Quote The biggest one in my mind is Indiana Army Surplus. They are selling Surplus M16A1 parts for much less than anyone else I can find. From them, I got: - Type D buttstock - $25 - Triangle Hanguard set - $19.95 - Completed A1 rear sight assembly - $15 - A1 pistol Grip - $9.95 I used these on the rifle above (except the rear sight kit) and they are in really good condition! They don't sell these on their website, you have to call and ask for Slim, he will be able to help you. The next place is Amherst Depot. Their parts are not the cheapest out there, but they are all gov contract replacement parts. I am very happy with they parts I got from them. Here is a slightly revised spreadsheet of my above build that might be a little more helpful. |
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That is insanely cheap. I suppose that surplus store doesn't ship anywhere, do they? That's about a 2 hour drive from where I am. With the mileage I get, I'd burn up all my savings in gas. Well, maybe not quite that bad, but you see what I mean, lol.
Hmm.... I'm thinking perhaps I ought to take the same train of thought you did and whip up a document I can link to and modify as I go. Right now, all my parts are sorted into folders in my favorites, and unfortunately there's no easy way to link that directory. |
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They do ship, it's kinda expensive however ($18). Mostly due to the fragile furniture. All of my parts were bought online or over the phone and shipped to me.
I would definitely recommend doing a spread sheet, it will help you keep track of your costs and not go over your budget. |
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Yeah, I suppose 18 is a little steep, but considering how much you aren't paying for the furniture (compared to more expensive alternatives), seems worth it to me. Part of me is still holding out for the Brownells furniture, as I'd really prefer to get my hands on brand new manufactured parts. I've had a lot of hands-on time with old plastics, and it never has ended well for me.
Here's what I have thus far. I have not calculated for shipping for a couple of reasons. 1: I plan on making use of Brownell's Edge program, so therefor free shipping, and I don't know what all I'll order each time. Sort of one of those deals where you cross that bridge when you get there. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1J81mM5fgWruVMDSEj2Q38r1zoKGT7MCuU98zeEnXvW8/edit?usp=sharing |
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Looks good to me so far! I am also waiting on the Brownell's furniture. Mostly because the major parts of my rifle are already Brownell's and I really love it when my rifles are as matching as possible.
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Same, I like to buy as many parts as possible from the same place, preferably the same manufacturer. And, actually, out of 16 links, only 6 of them originate from Brownells. So, technically speaking, this is more of a Brownells shell with Windham internals. I suppose I could have bought every single part from Brownells and be happy with it, but I'm hoping that with the internals I've elected, I can capture the same slickness that I have with my Windham 20". The trigger pull is snappy and very sure of itself (Not like "oh, well, maybe I'll let go of the hammer. I'm not sure yet, come back later."), the action itself feels so smooth that you'd swear it was on ball bearings, etc. I'm super stoked about getting this under way, but alas tires must come first.
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I've been getting, what I'll dub, "Retro Rifle Fever" over the last few days. Here in a couple weeks after I get new tires, and recoup a little after that purchase, I'm going to start in and get this project under way, instead of waiting for 2018. I'm going to start getting the cheaper pieces around August, then around black friday and christmas I'll see about the more expensive pieces when they go on sale, maybe shave a few dollars off that way.
Right now, I'm satisfied with where I have the parts. No, it won't be XM Grey as it historically should be. But, on the other hand, with the little inconsistencies here and there (nothing too wild, though) it won't be a retro rifle, it'll be my retro rifle. However, there is one little piece that's bugging me. I scrounged around retroblackrifle and was surprised to find not even a mention of slings. I love having a sling on my Windham and I'd like to have one on this rifle, too. This is the sling I have bookmarked, and for a fiver it's a pretty good sling I'd say. https://shop.windhamweaponry.com/products/12624561 While it would work, I don't know how accurate it would be. I would think that some type of leather would have been used. I'm not too familiar with what we had in the 60s - 70s, but I'm not too sure we had strong/durable enough nylon for this purpose, especially considering the, apparently, rather corrosive environment that was Vietnam. I recall a mentioning in "Modern Marvels - M16", or somewhere else perhaps, that the magazine well on some earlier M16s was, literally, rotting away due to the conditions in Vietnam. Anyone have any input? |
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I've been getting, what I'll dub, "Retro Rifle Fever" over the last few days. Here in a couple weeks after I get new tires, and recoup a little after that purchase, I'm going to start in and get this project under way, instead of waiting for 2018. I'm going to start getting the cheaper pieces around August, then around black friday and christmas I'll see about the more expensive pieces when they go on sale, maybe shave a few dollars off that way. Right now, I'm satisfied with where I have the parts. No, it won't be XM Grey as it historically should be. But, on the other hand, with the little inconsistencies here and there (nothing too wild, though) it won't be a retro rifle, it'll be my retro rifle. However, there is one little piece that's bugging me. I scrounged around retroblackrifle and was surprised to find not even a mention of slings. I love having a sling on my Windham and I'd like to have one on this rifle, too. This is the sling I have bookmarked, and for a fiver it's a pretty good sling I'd say. https://shop.windhamweaponry.com/products/12624561 While it would work, I don't know how accurate it would be. I would think that some type of leather would have been used. I'm not too familiar with what we had in the 60s - 70s, but I'm not too sure we had strong/durable enough nylon for this purpose, especially considering the, apparently, rather corrosive environment that was Vietnam. I recall a mentioning in "Modern Marvels - M16", or somewhere else perhaps, that the magazine well on some earlier M16s was, literally, rotting away due to the conditions in Vietnam. Anyone have any input? View Quote As far as I know, the M16 never used a leather sling, you'd need either an OD sling (probably old M14 slings were originally used), or a black sling, which is all I ever saw used during my time in the Army. I believe they're a cotton blend as opposed to nylon, but I'm not positive on that. This is the sling that I've bought for several of my rifles and also my brothers rifles... http://shop.ar15sport.ihoststores.com/productinfo_v3.aspx?productid=SLING-07 |
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The sling you linked to appears to be the same, at least visually in a coiled state. I already have one of Windham's slings, so I can link a photo if that would help. Might not feel quite as good as a more premium sling, but for a 5 dollar sling it'd say it's a bargain. The steel buckles (which surprised me, I was expecting plastic) haven't bent and don't slip, in fact they feel quite stout.
Speaking of leather, I did see a guy post a picture of his A4 rifle with a nice looking leather sling. Not what I, personally, would use on this build but I wouldn't mind trying one. http://imgur.com/8646kt3 |
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The sling you linked to appears to be the same, at least visually in a coiled state. I already have one of Windham's slings, so I can link a photo if that would help. Might not feel quite as good as a more premium sling, but for a 5 dollar sling it'd say it's a bargain. The steel buckles (which surprised me, I was expecting plastic) haven't bent and don't slip, in fact they feel quite stout. Speaking of leather, I did see a guy post a picture of his A4 rifle with a nice looking leather sling. Not what I, personally, would use on this build but I wouldn't mind trying one. http://imgur.com/8646kt3 View Quote As for the black sling, if it has a bit of a sheen to it and feels slick/artificial, it's not right for an A1. If it has a rough, cotton type feel then it would be what I'd call 'correct'. |
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Well, Windham's sling is far from correct then, lol. Feels about as artificial as those individual craft singles (AKA, plastic cheese). Is the one you linked to closer in that regard, since you've handled a few in person?
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Well, Windham's sling is far from correct then, lol. Feels about as artificial as those individual craft singles (AKA, plastic cheese). Is the one you linked to closer in that regard, since you've handled a few in person? View Quote |
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Awesome. My rifle will wear one of those, then. View Quote |
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very nice
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Built this for $760 over about a month. Waited for deals on the Brownell's parts. http://i.imgur.com/YJzGdRq.jpg Parts list: http://i.imgur.com/9pfKH9S.png View Quote |
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If there's other things that you'll order from ar15sport.com, order the sling with the other items. Otherwise the shipping charges will eat you alive. Like that Chrome BCG, for instance. If you order that, tack the sling onto that order. View Quote |
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I suppose you could say that Project Vietnam has began. I just ordered an M7 bayonet with scabbard for 50 bucks.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?type=3&campId=5337559805&toolId=10001&customId=j569p6nont00zk8a00004&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2F272496172782:g:qhgAAOSwZQRYXcbz Couldn't help myself this time. Ordered it with Fortunate Son playing in the background |
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I've thought about getting a Bayonet or two, one for my Garand and one or two for my M16 clones, but I just haven't ever gotten around to it.
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