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Posted: 10/8/2014 10:31:33 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Nice....  What kind of bipod do you plan to run? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: this is what happens when you have a free day, bored and online. I went through this thread and just ordered a bumpfire stock. i have a beater dmps that this will be going on. all i need is a bipod adapter Nice.... What kind of bipod do you plan to run? |
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Posted: 10/9/2014 12:25:34 PM EDT
[#2]
One issue with the steel case ammo that gets overlooked is that there is inherently more friction with the steel cases rubbing each other and the underside of the carrier vs. brass cases. Also it tends to be on the under powered side of things which exacerbates the issues.
They also have less give which is why a fully loaded mag with brass cased ammo that can be inserted with the carrier forward has issues if fully loaded with steel cases. |
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Posted: 10/9/2014 4:10:35 PM EDT
[#3]
Awesome thread.
Does anybody have the weight of the BFS bump fire stock? I hope it works with my 22lr upper. |
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Posted: 10/14/2014 9:06:55 PM EDT
[#4]
Ok jaqufrost, I have a JARD in my cart at brownell's. Tell me one more time what this trigger does to improve bump fire? I take your word for it, but I want to know what I am getting it for outside your recommendation.
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Posted: 10/14/2014 9:38:02 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Awesome thread. Does anybody have the weight of the BFS bump fire stock? I hope it works with my 22lr upper. It is 12oz. direct from the mouth of the owner of BFS. |
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Posted: 10/14/2014 11:03:11 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Ok jaqufrost, I have a JARD in my cart at brownell's. Tell me one more time what this trigger does to improve bump fire? I take your word for it, but I want to know what I am getting it for outside your recommendation. This, I keep going between the JARD (which I'm a little worried about adjusting correctly), and a G2S, since I saw the video of that SBR being run with the BFS and G2S. I NEED GUIDANCE! |
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Posted: 10/14/2014 11:25:58 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Ok jaqufrost, I have a JARD in my cart at brownell's. Tell me one more time what this trigger does to improve bump fire? I take your word for it, but I want to know what I am getting it for outside your recommendation. I think the CMC may also be slower and that is the other trigger I was considering for this build. I really wish I had the tools to test the triggers myself. I've been looking for the actual lock time on the JARD and I haven't been able to find it, I thought I read awhile back that it was slower than a standard hammer. I had less trouble with the S2S than the SD3G, probably because of the increased reset travel required. One of the upsides to the JARD is you can swap trigger weights from 1.5 to 4.5lb with just a $5 spring swap. You can also adjust the reset to an extremely short distance. One of my other rifles with the 1.5lb version I had to adjust my over travel out because I was getting a second shot when I didn't want it.
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Posted: 10/15/2014 10:49:14 AM EDT
[#8]
Thanks for the reply guys. I'm looking forward to joining the club soon
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Posted: 10/15/2014 12:54:20 PM EDT
[#9]
The weight of the stock won't make much of a difference for the .22. It's the stationary part of the gun. You are really going to want something light weight with a GOOD trigger to get .22 to bump. I have seen it done, though never off of a bipod.
Good luck! |
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Posted: 10/15/2014 12:56:34 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
My understanding is it has one of the slower lock times of the match trigger designs. That gives the carrier a few more milliseconds to close before the hammer impacts the firing pin. It's not a magic bullet, but I've had enough times playing with my Geissele S2S(pre-cursor to the G2S) and SD3G where the hammer was down too early, so I was looking for a hammer that was slower. I think the CMC may also be slower and that is the other trigger I was considering for this build. I really wish I had the tools to test the triggers myself. I've been looking for the actual lock time on the JARD and I haven't been able to find it, I thought I read awhile back that it was slower than a standard hammer. I had less trouble with the S2S than the SD3G, probably because of the increased reset travel required. One of the upsides to the JARD is you can swap trigger weights from 1.5 to 4.5lb with just a $5 spring swap. You can also adjust the reset to an extremely short distance. One of my other rifles with the 1.5lb version I had to adjust my over travel out because I was getting a second shot when I didn't want it.
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Ok jaqufrost, I have a JARD in my cart at brownell's. Tell me one more time what this trigger does to improve bump fire? I take your word for it, but I want to know what I am getting it for outside your recommendation. I think the CMC may also be slower and that is the other trigger I was considering for this build. I really wish I had the tools to test the triggers myself. I've been looking for the actual lock time on the JARD and I haven't been able to find it, I thought I read awhile back that it was slower than a standard hammer. I had less trouble with the S2S than the SD3G, probably because of the increased reset travel required. One of the upsides to the JARD is you can swap trigger weights from 1.5 to 4.5lb with just a $5 spring swap. You can also adjust the reset to an extremely short distance. One of my other rifles with the 1.5lb version I had to adjust my over travel out because I was getting a second shot when I didn't want it.
Thank you for that. 
I think we need to proposition one of these trigger companies to make a BF specific trigger. Big heavy hammer, slow spring, light pull, etc. |
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Posted: 10/15/2014 1:24:41 PM EDT
[#11]
So I need some quick advise. I ordered the a 16" A2 profile barrel, mid-length gas system from PSA for their barrel clearance sale.
Barrel I ordered However, I received a 16" M4A1 barrel (obviously with a carbine length gas system). 
Barrel I received So, I'm about sick of waiting for stuff to arrive, and I REALLY don't want to deal with contacting PSA, sending a barrel back, and then waiting to receive the new one. So, now I'm trying to figure out if it is a good or bad idea to just build the rifle on this barrel (mostly because I've seen most people say that the mid-length seems to run better). Another advantage I see is that I'm pretty sure the M4A1 barrel is a tad lighter, which would mean the BFS stock would probably run better. So what do you you guys think. Is it worth the hassel to send back a barrel and wait for the other to arrive? Or will the one I have work just fine. I'm building it with a YHM gasblock as a dissy, if that matters. |
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Posted: 10/15/2014 2:03:23 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So I need some quick advise. I ordered the a 16" A2 profile barrel, mid-length gas system from PSA for their barrel clearance sale. Barrel I ordered However, I received a 16" M4A1 barrel (obviously with a carbine length gas system).
Barrel I received So, I'm about sick of waiting for stuff to arrive, and I REALLY don't want to deal with contacting PSA, sending a barrel back, and then waiting to receive the new one. So, now I'm trying to figure out if it is a good or bad idea to just build the rifle on this barrel (mostly because I've seen most people say that the mid-length seems to run better). Another advantage I see is that I'm pretty sure the M4A1 barrel is a tad lighter, which would mean the BFS stock would probably run better. So what do you you guys think. Is it worth the hassel to send back a barrel and wait for the other to arrive? Or will the one I have work just fine. I'm building it with a YHM gasblock as a dissy, if that matters. My Bump-SAW goes great on a carbine gas 16" I think it's probably one of the few places it's preferable since I bet you'll be running a lot of low power steel cased stuff. 
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Posted: 10/15/2014 2:06:30 PM EDT
[#13]
Edit: Mehh. Rules is rules.
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Posted: 10/15/2014 2:24:56 PM EDT
[#14]
Updated the Wikipedia entry:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bump_fire, after bumping into Bill Atkins on Weaponeer. He's got a new video of his 10/22 water-cooled/air-cooled prototype, with removable water jacket. 
Skip to 7:40 for him actually firing it & clearing stovepipe jams. |
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Posted: 10/15/2014 2:30:05 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: So I need some quick advise. I ordered the a 16" A2 profile barrel, mid-length gas system from PSA for their barrel clearance sale. Barrel I ordered However, I received a 16" M4A1 barrel (obviously with a carbine length gas system). Barrel I received So, I'm about sick of waiting for stuff to arrive, and I REALLY don't want to deal with contacting PSA, sending a barrel back, and then waiting to receive the new one. So, now I'm trying to figure out if it is a good or bad idea to just build the rifle on this barrel (mostly because I've seen most people say that the mid-length seems to run better). Another advantage I see is that I'm pretty sure the M4A1 barrel is a tad lighter, which would mean the BFS stock would probably run better. So what do you you guys think. Is it worth the hassel to send back a barrel and wait for the other to arrive? Or will the one I have work just fine. I'm building it with a YHM gasblock as a dissy, if that matters. |
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Posted: 10/16/2014 1:23:46 AM EDT
[#16]
So I finally decided to take the JP low mass carrier out of the package. Think I should have returned it and just got a slide fire instead, but I am stubborn in trying to get this to run without one.
My gun also has SD-3G and an extra power JP recoil spring. Have been running it with a SDN-6 to keep the indoor range from throwing me out... I was getting hammer follow through after anywhere from 1 to 3 or 4 shots. Most often just after 1. With the addition of the low mass carrier, I can consistently double the gun and the hammer is cocked afterwards. However, having a very difficult time getting off more than 2 shots now. I am thinking I need a bipod that is more wobbly, right now running a Harris bipod with a good quality rail adapter. Any UTG bipods that can be recommended for the right amount of wobble? |
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Posted: 10/16/2014 1:02:48 PM EDT
[#17]
Quake_Guy
I would need to see a pic of your setup before I would give bipod advice. Since most bipods are designed around precision shooting, it's kind of a crapshoot when going with the known brands. I know from watching reviews that spendier bipods such as the atlas and GG&G would work. I also know that's $200 and most people don't (yet) see it being worth the money. I know when I set out to do this thing in the first place, I intentionally looked at cheap airsoft stuff. For starters, they are cheap in price, so you aren't out a lot of dough if it doesn't pan out. They are also not finely precise so it's almost assumed they will wobble. The downsides are that they are cheap in quality and command a certain amount of derision when you show them to other shooters. I went to the local army surplus places outside Ft. Lewis and got this bipod for $20 or so. You can find similar when you google image search "picatinny mount bipod." You'll find stuff like this. Here was mine as I put it together out of old parts. My cheap bipod BROKE and that is why I put the cool-guy M60 struts. They looked cool, but they had a purpose. I still have them and I want to mount them again someday.    |
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Posted: 10/16/2014 1:18:03 PM EDT
[#18]
You might try a loose bipod adapter. Maybe an ADM mount adjusted so it is loose but the QD still locks keeping it on the rail.
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Posted: 10/16/2014 4:05:22 PM EDT
[#19]
One thing that drove me away from the "loose bipod" idea was that it was still loose when it was closed and not in use. Having something at the end of the gun shaking back and forth would be pretty obnoxious when you are using the gun in the traditional carbine mode.
I suppose if this is truly purpose-buit to be a prone Bump-SAW it doesn't matter. As much as you might see me running mine while probed out, I do use it for normal carbine shoots from time to time.
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Posted: 10/16/2014 9:11:07 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You might try a loose bipod adapter. Maybe an ADM mount adjusted so it is loose but the QD still locks keeping it on the rail. played around with it, but maybe I can't duplicate the original just right condition of looseness... I suspect its the bipod tightness, because I cleaned the gun before my last range trip and noticed the bipod was fairly loose and tightened it up without thinking of the possible results... |
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Posted: 10/17/2014 4:38:41 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: played around with it, but maybe I can't duplicate the original just right condition of looseness... I suspect its the bipod tightness, because I cleaned the gun before my last range trip and noticed the bipod was fairly loose and tightened it up without thinking of the possible results... Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: You might try a loose bipod adapter. Maybe an ADM mount adjusted so it is loose but the QD still locks keeping it on the rail. played around with it, but maybe I can't duplicate the original just right condition of looseness... I suspect its the bipod tightness, because I cleaned the gun before my last range trip and noticed the bipod was fairly loose and tightened it up without thinking of the possible results... So what is your technique in a non-BF, non select fire IAR? I could imagine something working if you were to grab the rear of the stock and push forward gently like this guy. It's douchey but it does work. It's not at all accurate though. |
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Posted: 10/17/2014 7:15:50 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
couple of questions, been lurking....' I am finishing up a dissipator upper on slidefire stock. Quadrail and bipod Anybody have any suggestions on muzzle device? Break or flash hider? Also, what sights are u guys running, I have been looking at an eotech for this type of build. Thanks! Both http://www.aimsurplus.com/product.aspx?item=XPWSTRIAD556&name=PWS+5.56%2f.223+Triad+Flash+Suppressor&groupid=973 |
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Posted: 10/18/2014 11:46:12 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So what is your technique in a non-BF, non select fire IAR? I could imagine something working if you were to grab the rear of the stock and push forward gently like this guy. It's douchey but it does work. It's not at all accurate though.
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
You might try a loose bipod adapter. Maybe an ADM mount adjusted so it is loose but the QD still locks keeping it on the rail. played around with it, but maybe I can't duplicate the original just right condition of looseness... I suspect its the bipod tightness, because I cleaned the gun before my last range trip and noticed the bipod was fairly loose and tightened it up without thinking of the possible results... So what is your technique in a non-BF, non select fire IAR? I could imagine something working if you were to grab the rear of the stock and push forward gently like this guy. It's douchey but it does work. It's not at all accurate though.
left hand on top of stock gently pushing forward with right hand loosely formed around pistol grip to do the bump. maybe I need to push more forcefully with the left hand. but given the very short reset of the SD3G and mild recoil of my rifle with the can attached, I should be able to keep the travel to a minimum and have decent accuracy with a bipod. I think I have the technical issues figured out regard bolt follow through, I just need to get outdoors where I have more freedom to experiment with technique. I get the looks when I am at the indoor range. I may order a cheap UTG bipod to give me some more options next time I can shoot outside. |
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Posted: 10/19/2014 12:49:02 AM EDT
[#24]
Would using a suppressor typically make the gun operate more or less reliably? From the reading in the OP, it makes it seem (to me) that making sure the bolt closes as quickly as possible is one of the more important things. Everything I've read says that using a suppressor will increase the ROF in a rifle. So, that says to me that the suppressor causes the bolt to cycle quicker than if there wasn't one, which will help with a trigger that has a slightly quicker lock time. I'm basically trying to decide between spending $115 on a SOCOM flash hider, or using the A2 flash hider in my parts box.
Parts I'm using for the build: Barrel: PSA M4A1 profile w/ Carbine gas Lower: Anderson Arms LPK: White Oak Armory Trigger: G2S Stock: Bump Fire Systems On another note, it's a dissipator build, and I'm using Magpul MOE handguards. With the YHM flip up gas block, is there a way to get the handguard cap to stay in place against the gas block without the handguards on? I had a busted gas tube that I cut and up used to 'pin' the cap with the gas block. But the end cap still slides down the gas tube when I remove the handguards. Any ideas, other than tapping the gas block and using a screw? TLDR; Will a suppressor (its a SOCOM556) typically make a bumpSAW more reliable? |
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Posted: 10/19/2014 7:07:43 PM EDT
[#25]
The suppressor will increase back pressure and it should open a little faster. It probably won't make much difference on how fast the bcg closes though. The suppressor will also add some weight and reduce recoil which could have some effect on the rifles ability to bump. It should work either way, but I would run it without the suppressor most of the time simply because if your dropping a lot of rounds your producing a lot of heat, and the suppressor only exacerbates the heat build up.
ETA: To keep your handguard cap in place I would probably use a short piece of gas tube and peen it open so that it pushes the cap against the YHM flip up gas block.
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Posted: 10/19/2014 8:09:22 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: left hand on top of stock gently pushing forward with right hand loosely formed around pistol grip to do the bump. maybe I need to push more forcefully with the left hand. but given the very short reset of the SD3G and mild recoil of my rifle with the can attached, I should be able to keep the travel to a minimum and have decent accuracy with a bipod. I think I have the technical issues figured out regard bolt follow through, I just need to get outdoors where I have more freedom to experiment with technique. I get the looks when I am at the indoor range. I may order a cheap UTG bipod to give me some more options next time I can shoot outside. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: You might try a loose bipod adapter. Maybe an ADM mount adjusted so it is loose but the QD still locks keeping it on the rail. played around with it, but maybe I can't duplicate the original just right condition of looseness... I suspect its the bipod tightness, because I cleaned the gun before my last range trip and noticed the bipod was fairly loose and tightened it up without thinking of the possible results... So what is your technique in a non-BF, non select fire IAR? I could imagine something working if you were to grab the rear of the stock and push forward gently like this guy. It's douchey but it does work. It's not at all accurate though. left hand on top of stock gently pushing forward with right hand loosely formed around pistol grip to do the bump. maybe I need to push more forcefully with the left hand. but given the very short reset of the SD3G and mild recoil of my rifle with the can attached, I should be able to keep the travel to a minimum and have decent accuracy with a bipod. I think I have the technical issues figured out regard bolt follow through, I just need to get outdoors where I have more freedom to experiment with technique. I get the looks when I am at the indoor range. I may order a cheap UTG bipod to give me some more options next time I can shoot outside. You might get that to work, but it's way too sensitive a technique for me personally. When my gun doesn't go there is usually something big going on to cause it not to bump. It's obviously not flawless though.
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Posted: 10/20/2014 12:42:26 PM EDT
[#27]
I've been following this thread for a couple weeks, on a whim I asked the local fun shoppe guy if they had an M60 bipod. He pulled a new-old-stock one right out of a box of stuff, I handed him $100 USD, now I must make a bumpSAW.
I have a rifle in my safe that will be the donor with specs: RRA reciever Adams Arms piston carbine length Daniel Defense .gov profile 16" barrel MIAD grip YHM QD suppressor mount flash hider RRA 2 stage NM trigger The magic brown truck dropped off: magpul FCS YHM Flip up gas block / front sight magpul SL handguards My plan is to replicate the DIY stock posted by jaqufrost. Through PMs I have most of my questions answered. It is a piston gun but I still want to have the YHM gas block out front to both increase sight radius and more importantly hold the bipod in place. I have seen bipods held in place between flash hiders and the gas block with good results, what if I were to "saddle" the gas block on the M60 bipod? I know there is probably not enough clearance between the barrel and the gas tube channel as is, but I can remove some metal and possibly get it to fit. Thoughts? I dont want to remove any material from the bipod, that would be borderline sacrelige. Although, if the saddle idea works, I could make the anti-rotation a viable addition. As for trigger, from what I gather, 2 stages are not ideal. Plus the hammer in the RRA NM is lighter. I have a Jard adjustable in another rifle that I could swap out though. Would a milspec trigger with JP light yellow spring work? |
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Posted: 10/20/2014 1:18:09 PM EDT
[#28]
I would leave the RRA two stage in it for now. I know guys are bumping with stock triggers, and an RRA should be easier to use than that. If it doesn't work well, then I would make the swap.
In case anyone is wondering, I played with my JARD yesterday and tried to take a measurement of how long my reset was. I'm measuring a .06 reset length, which is the same as the SD3G. Of course the JARD is adjustable, so I could shave it down a little more or open it up. My total front to back movement was limited to .10. I need to try and measure how much overtravel I have, my reset might actually be a hair under .06 because the .06 was measured from the trigger all the way back until the hammer dropped off the disconnector. |
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Posted: 10/20/2014 5:47:31 PM EDT
[#29]
I happen to know a little about mounting an M60 bipod to an AR.
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Posted: 10/21/2014 10:18:52 AM EDT
[#30]
C5 Hardtop just posted this over in the 3 position Geissele thread. This is great information for selecting a trigger for bumpfiring.
From ARFCOM member "feynman99" ____Trigger______Pretravel (in)____Overtravel (in)____ Reset (in)____Pull weight (lbs)____Hammer PE (in*oz) Taccon mode 1_____ 0.0335_________0.0335__________ 0.0420______3.638_____________52.23 Taccon mode 2_____0.0335_________0.0070___________0.0155______4.075_____________52.23 Timney 3lb_________0.0155_________0.0285__________0.0350_______3.238_____________61.92 AR Gold___________0.0140_________0.0055__________0.0140_______2.563_____________69.98 Geissele S3G_______0.0405_________0.0400__________0.0620_______2.875_____________100.68 Hipertouch 24E_____0.0400_________0.0370__________0.0600_______2.469_____________115.08 |
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Posted: 10/21/2014 12:14:30 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I happen to know a little about mounting an M60 bipod to an AR. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_4/615937_M60_bipod_mounted_to_my_M4_contour_barrel__How_I_did_it_.html Yes! I started to fit my bipod last night and know exactly what you did there. I need to relieve the lower half of the front clamp on my YHM block like you did. With that, it will provide a slight gap to allow my flash hider / suppressor mount to rest against the barrel shoulder instead of the bipod adapter. I'll post pics once I get it going. With the SL handguards and bipod folded up it reminds me of a BAR. So far I'm loving this thing. |
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Posted: 10/21/2014 1:41:56 PM EDT
[#32]
i was at the range earlier today and got to try it out for the first time. I kept having trigger reset issues, i couldnt get through more than a few bursts without it happening.
and while i kept having issues, the cheap bipod i have works great, it has just enough give to wobble back and forth.  |
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Posted: 10/21/2014 1:44:17 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted: i was at the range earlier today and got to try it out for the first time. I kept having trigger reset issues, i couldnt get through more than a few bursts without it happening. and while i kept having issues, the cheap bipod i have works great, it has just enough give to wobble back and forth. http://i58.tinypic.com/ilj77c.jpg |
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Posted: 10/21/2014 2:32:50 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Rifle looks good. What trigger are you using? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: i was at the range earlier today and got to try it out for the first time. I kept having trigger reset issues, i couldnt get through more than a few bursts without it happening. and while i kept having issues, the cheap bipod i have works great, it has just enough give to wobble back and forth. http://i58.tinypic.com/ilj77c.jpg |
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Posted: 10/21/2014 4:27:46 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted: i was at the range earlier today and got to try it out for the first time. I kept having trigger reset issues, i couldnt get through more than a few bursts without it happening. and while i kept having issues, the cheap bipod i have works great, it has just enough give to wobble back and forth. http://i58.tinypic.com/ilj77c.jpg Make sure your stock is moving back and forth nice and freely. It could be that the rifle portion of the system isn't getting back far enough to disconnect.
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Posted: 10/23/2014 8:57:40 AM EDT
[#36]
Pics Man, Pics!
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Posted: 10/23/2014 9:02:18 AM EDT
[#37]
I bought a VLTOR A1 stock that fits the Carbine receiver extensions. I'm tempted to try making it into another bump stock to see if I like the length of pull better.
My MOE fixed stock is a little short. I bought the .5 extension pad, but I haven't had time to try it out yet. |
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Posted: 10/23/2014 11:17:48 AM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Pics Man, Pics! Teaser pic of upper. 
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Posted: 10/23/2014 3:30:24 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Teaser pic of upper. http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii307/Cramerica1/IMG_20141022_083724662_zpsap95vdns.jpg Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Pics Man, Pics! Teaser pic of upper. http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii307/Cramerica1/IMG_20141022_083724662_zpsap95vdns.jpg That's shit-hawt. You need to post that in my GD thread!
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Posted: 10/23/2014 8:41:07 PM EDT
[#40]
Where do you get those m60 bipods
Thanks Tom
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Posted: 10/23/2014 9:16:07 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Teaser pic of upper. <a href="http://s267.photobucket.com/user/Cramerica1/media/IMG_20141022_083724662_zpsap95vdns.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii307/Cramerica1/IMG_20141022_083724662_zpsap95vdns.jpg</a> Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Pics Man, Pics! Teaser pic of upper. <a href="http://s267.photobucket.com/user/Cramerica1/media/IMG_20141022_083724662_zpsap95vdns.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii307/Cramerica1/IMG_20141022_083724662_zpsap95vdns.jpg</a> Spec's Please! I tried to shoot my bump gun with a Piston upper with no luck.. Simply bad fuckin ass!.......Sully |
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Posted: 10/23/2014 11:37:10 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Spec's Please! I tried to shoot my bump gun with a Piston upper with no luck.. Simply bad fuckin ass!.......Sully Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Pics Man, Pics! Teaser pic of upper. <a href="http://s267.photobucket.com/user/Cramerica1/media/IMG_20141022_083724662_zpsap95vdns.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii307/Cramerica1/IMG_20141022_083724662_zpsap95vdns.jpg</a> Spec's Please! I tried to shoot my bump gun with a Piston upper with no luck.. Simply bad fuckin ass!.......Sully I posted beginning specs in an earlier post on this page. I did the gas block clamp modification tonight with a milling bit and dremel. Went surprisingly fast with minimal run-over-and-scar-your-entire-piece-and-vise. I also took down some more of the inside of the bipod yoke so the flash hider rests on the barrel shoulder and has about a 0.002" gap to allow movement of then bipod. About as good as you can get without a mill. I'll start the stock mod this weekend with FCS and MIAD between kydex holster making and loading 9mm. |
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Posted: 10/24/2014 5:38:23 AM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I posted beginning specs in an earlier post on this page. I did the gas block clamp modification tonight with a milling bit and dremel. Went surprisingly fast with minimal run-over-and-scar-your-entire-piece-and-vise. I also took down some more of the inside of the bipod yoke so the flash hider rests on the barrel shoulder and has about a 0.002" gap to allow movement of then bipod. About as good as you can get without a mill. I'll start the stock mod this weekend with FCS and MIAD between kydex holster making and loading 9mm. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Pics Man, Pics! Teaser pic of upper. <a href="http://s267.photobucket.com/user/Cramerica1/media/IMG_20141022_083724662_zpsap95vdns.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii307/Cramerica1/IMG_20141022_083724662_zpsap95vdns.jpg</a> Spec's Please! I tried to shoot my bump gun with a Piston upper with no luck.. Simply bad fuckin ass!.......Sully I posted beginning specs in an earlier post on this page. I did the gas block clamp modification tonight with a milling bit and dremel. Went surprisingly fast with minimal run-over-and-scar-your-entire-piece-and-vise. I also took down some more of the inside of the bipod yoke so the flash hider rests on the barrel shoulder and has about a 0.002" gap to allow movement of then bipod. About as good as you can get without a mill. I'll start the stock mod this weekend with FCS and MIAD between kydex holster making and loading 9mm. Thanks, I hope it shoots as good as it looks!..........Sully |
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Posted: 10/24/2014 2:44:58 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Where do you get those m60 bipods Thanks Tom I wish someone would make a legit rail-mounted version. I remember a guy here who had a CAD drawing of a generic version. Then there's these random things I could never get ID'd.    |
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Posted: 10/24/2014 6:51:22 PM EDT
[#45]
Thanks I will keep looking
Tom |
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Posted: 11/2/2014 10:33:08 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It's really not needed on a 9mm though. 9mm's are blowback and don't have the timing issues that a 5.56 gun will. They don't need any extra time for the bolt to close at the end of the stroke before the firing pin can reach the primer. 9mm's also use a heavy bolt that pushes the gun forward slightly when it returns to battery. I think you could replicate that video with just an SD3G or AR Gold trigger in a standard 9mm setup. If you wanted a higher cyclic rate you could shorten the stroke or use an extended buffer so their is less overall travel during the cycle, this also prevents the bolt catch from breaking when it gets struck by the bolt. I had some friends shooting my 9mm with a Fostech stock yesterday. I haven't had a problem with it, but they had 3 or 4 out-of-battery detonations. When shooting 5.56, the worst I've had happen is hammer follow. I'm not sure if I was getting early hammer release, or if it was bolt bounce, timed just wrong so the hammer was hitting while it wasn't all the way into battery. On the 5.56 uppers I've gone to an AAC rate reducing buffer, which seems to greatly reduce the amount of HF I get. |
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Posted: 11/4/2014 1:37:14 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I had some friends shooting my 9mm with a Fostech stock yesterday. I haven't had a problem with it, but they had 3 or 4 out-of-battery detonations. When shooting 5.56, the worst I've had happen is hammer follow. I'm not sure if I was getting early hammer release, or if it was bolt bounce, timed just wrong so the hammer was hitting while it wasn't all the way into battery. On the 5.56 uppers I've gone to an AAC rate reducing buffer, which seems to greatly reduce the amount of HF I get. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: It's really not needed on a 9mm though. 9mm's are blowback and don't have the timing issues that a 5.56 gun will. They don't need any extra time for the bolt to close at the end of the stroke before the firing pin can reach the primer. 9mm's also use a heavy bolt that pushes the gun forward slightly when it returns to battery. I think you could replicate that video with just an SD3G or AR Gold trigger in a standard 9mm setup. If you wanted a higher cyclic rate you could shorten the stroke or use an extended buffer so their is less overall travel during the cycle, this also prevents the bolt catch from breaking when it gets struck by the bolt. I had some friends shooting my 9mm with a Fostech stock yesterday. I haven't had a problem with it, but they had 3 or 4 out-of-battery detonations. When shooting 5.56, the worst I've had happen is hammer follow. I'm not sure if I was getting early hammer release, or if it was bolt bounce, timed just wrong so the hammer was hitting while it wasn't all the way into battery. On the 5.56 uppers I've gone to an AAC rate reducing buffer, which seems to greatly reduce the amount of HF I get. |
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Posted: 11/4/2014 3:57:22 PM EDT
[#49]
Wow! That is awesome! It's like jaqufrosts gun and mine had a baby...
I really like that SL handguard. I want to see a rifle length version.
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Posted: 11/4/2014 4:02:23 PM EDT
[#50]
I can't see pictures at work, but I'll be checking this thread as soon as I'm home so I can see your build.
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