Got my tickets last year and finally ordered my first HF radio last night.  After extensive reading on this forum last night I ordered an IC-7200 and a TM-V71 (already have V71 in my truck).  I also order Diamond X50 and an Alpha Delta DX-LB-Plus.  I know I probably could have built the antennas but I wanted something I knew should work and I'll learn to build them once everything is on the air.  I also saw this antenna mast design yesterday and think this will work in my location and so I can change antennas out to see how things work.  

The question I have at the moment is spacing.  This mast will top out ~40' above grade.  I plan on putting the x50 on top.  How far below would the Alpha Delta need to be in an inverted V configuration?  My area also has a very large mesh network and I have a 2.4 GHz Ubiquiti M2 I would also like on this mast as high as possible.  Could I put the M2 between the other two antennas?  What spacing would I need?

Hey wka,
I have a 7200 and an X50.  Been pretty happy with both for several years!  Can't help much with the vertical spacing because I use a 43' ground mounted vertical for the 7200.  



The X50 is in the attic.  Use it with my FT-8800 and IRLP node.



BD

I could mount the x50 in the attic...  I can hit most of the repeaters in the area sitting in my truck in the driveway so it should work fine.  Only net I can't work well is a simplex net.

You can operate your base HF rig (the 7200) and the VHF rig from the same power supply.  You just can't
transmit on both at the same time, but you can monitor on one, transmit on the other.

For a power supply I can highly recommend any of three models, the Samlex SEC-1223, SEC-1223BBM, or SEC-1235M.

The SEC-1223 is a 23 amp supply that will give reliable power for a 100 w HF SSB rig, or 75 w VHF FM rig.  It can also power
a number of accessories, meter light, tuner, etc.  It is rated 23 A continuous, 25 A surge.

The SEC-1223BBM is the similar as above, but about 2" longer to accommodate a "Battery Backup Module", which when
connected to a 12 v battery will provide backup power when the lights go out.  If 120 vac fails, the SEC-1223BBM will instantly
switch to battery.  This is so fast, so smooth, the radio will not even blink.  Seamless operation.  When power is restored,
the supply will switch back to 120 vac power, and at the same time charge the 12 v battery.  Once fully charged it will maintain
a "float charge" to keep the battery topped off.  Otherwise, same power output as the SEC-1223.

The SEC-1235M is similar to the 1223 but instead of 23 A / 25 A like the 1223, it is rated 30 A continuous / 35 A surge.  Also
it has Volt and Current meters on front.

All three of these supplies are small, light, run cool, and do not produce any of the dreaded RF hash that some other switching
supplies produce.

Another accessory you need for the IC-7200 is a tuner.  I can highly recommend the LDG IT-100 tuner.  I've had several of these
including one in my HF portable / emergency kit now.  I have another with a 7200 at our club station.

The radio and tuner can be set to "tune on PTT", that is, as soon as you key the mic, if the system needs tuning, SWR higher
than 1.7:1, it will automatically go into tuning mode, reducing the IC-7200's power to 10 watts and producing a carrier wave for
tuning.  When tuned, SWR is down to 1.3 or less, it will stop and return the radio to its previous power and mode setting.  It is
not going to tune every time you press the mic's PTT button, but only if it senses it needs to tune, such as after a band change,
or a frequency change over a certain amount for where last tuned.  Take advantage of this.  It will only tune on PTT when it needs
to.

When I worked at the state EOC, we had 5-10 feet between the midpoint of the HF antennas (B&W folded dipole or Alpha-Delta DX-CC) and the VHF/UHF dual bands (mostly Cushcraft AR-270s).  Never had too much trouble with desense, using the same antennas on the tower.  We had Kenwood dual band radios (45/35 watts IIRC) with TenTec Omni VI at up to 500 watts or Kenwood TS-430 at 100 watts.

Thanks Jupiter7200.  I used a lot of your advice.  I ordered the 1223BBM...only plan on talking on one at a time.  I also ordered the IT-100.  This will be my base station for now put will eventually be converted to base/emcomm.

This setup can be used both portable, operated from the case, or removed and set on a desk or table.


http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_22/675680_.html

VHF/UHF antenna will work best if mounted on the very top of the mast. You can mount the Inverted-V's feed point about a foot below it. I doubt it will affect either antenna. The manual for your X50 may recommend to have an omega shaped one turn loop in the coax, about a foot below the X50 feed point. So, practically this will bring the Inverted-V feed point about 3 ft below the top of the tower. It's no problem.
Keep the Inverted-V away from any other conductive objects. The ends should be elevated at least 7-8 ft. off the ground.
Don't forget to install lightning arresters on the coax cables and at least one grounding rod where coax cables enter the house. Single-point ground for everything is the key. We had lots of discussions on grounding. You'll find tons of information on the web as well.

Good point on keeping the HF antenna away from other metal objects.  We used angle iron to move the apex of out antennas a couple of feet away from the tower to keep it from shorting out or interacting too much.

Also, if you ever use ladder line, it has to be kept away from metal supports also.  A group of us, including at least three Extras, spent over an hour trying to figure out why a G5RV antenna wasn't working.  Used a TDR to check the coax end to end, a multimeter to check continuity and so forth... until someone finally looked at the ladder line, neatly taped to a leg of the tower.  DUH!

I don't follow how that works.

The angle iron is bolted to the legs and/or diagonal braces of the tower with U-bolts so that it sticks out horizontally several feet.  

It should have a hole drilled near the end and a pulley installed.  Let me recommend making the rope a continuous loop, and
where the balun will tie on, a snap hook or other device to secure the balun yet be too large to go through the pulley.  Make
the loop go almost to the ground, thus leaving enough end so that it can be tied off on the leg of the tower chest high from
the ground.

Also I recommend using a good marine grade pulley from a boat shop rather than a cheap hardware store pulley.  A marine
grade pulley is more expensive but will not freeze up from corrosion in just a few seasons.

A few photos of our club mast and antennas.


Not one, but TWO bucket trucks!




Up top.




Arms holding 75 m dipole center and OCFD balun.