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Page AR-15 » Optics, Mounts, and Sights
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Link Posted: 5/6/2012 5:27:16 PM EDT
[#1]
Quoted:
KF

k80 has a good description of what is going on with the sight. The 1mm fiber is fine.  I got a variety pack of fibers, and went with the 3mm . What ever works is good, when messing around with these things. Everyone has their own thoughts on how to set it up. Here's mine....

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t311/hilljacknm/Mobile%20Uploads/ns1.jpg

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t311/hilljacknm/Mobile%20Uploads/ns2.jpg

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t311/hilljacknm/Mobile%20Uploads/ns3.jpg

First shots were off the paper, high at 25 yards. Probably 6 - 8 feet high at 100yards.  Windage was almost dead on. Fired around 100 rounds as far out as 300 yards.

I'll say it again, cool little sight.

Thanks OP for posting about it.  


What do you have your fiber optic mounted with?

Link Posted: 5/6/2012 6:08:19 PM EDT
[#2]
It's a block of AcraGlas gel . Drilled/counter sunk a hole through the ACOG mount .  Put a bolt through the hole to give the gel a good place to hold on to. Made a mold out of modeling clay and filled it with the gel. Filed the block down to height, and used a round file to make a  channel for the fiber to fit in. Painted the channel with glow in the dark paint, hoping to get a little low light glow.  That didn't help. Next time, will just paint the channel white. Glued/aligned the fiber to the block.  It's just that easy.

Link Posted: 5/8/2012 11:48:30 AM EDT
[#3]
I just got mine the other day.  Mines a little different thogh, in that it has two tiny mirrors under the front main one instead of one.  
Also, I kind of doubt the quality of this little thing.  For $30 ok, but I wouldnt put much faith in it. The fragile sighting components are exposed too much.
When I got it, I noticed that the top front and rear glass portions were hazed, so I took a q-tip with a little isopropyl alcohol and cleaned those surfaces a bit to allow light to enter more easily.  Then I noticed the unit inside the casing start to move around.  The alcohol ate up the adhesive holding the internal glass thingy to the metal frame!  It was just knocking around freely.  I used super glue on a toothpick to glue the front and rear portions back in.  It seems ok now, but I have to doubt that this thing will hold up to repeated recoil.  As for the optic part, I just took some metal foil tape, cut out a square and stuck it on that front ledge thats underneath the front lense.  
This isnt a perfect sight, but for the money its worth the fun in trying to improve it.
Link Posted: 5/9/2012 4:51:34 PM EDT
[#4]
I have an astigmatism, so a normal red dot gives me the "bowl of grapefruit" or comma effect.
Any thought how this might work out for me?
Anyone else with an astigmatism with one?
Thanks.

Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile
Link Posted: 5/9/2012 5:58:58 PM EDT
[#5]
Quoted:
I have an astigmatism, so a normal red dot gives me the "bowl of grapefruit" or comma effect.
Any thought how this might work out for me?
Anyone else with an astigmatism with one?
Thanks.

Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile


I'm in the same boat. EOTechs and aimpoints are comma shaped to me. This little sight works for me.

Link Posted: 5/9/2012 8:27:40 PM EDT
[#6]
Anyone try the sight on a carry handle?

Tried to put it on one and it would not fit. It is too wide to to seat all the way down inside the handle. This is on a removable handle. Are the non-removable handles wider?

Link Posted: 5/9/2012 9:45:35 PM EDT
[#7]
I received the tritium vial I ordered weeks ago.  It is not bright enough to illuminate the fiber optic.  Does someone make a UV emitting tritium lamp?
Link Posted: 5/9/2012 10:34:54 PM EDT
[#8]



Quoted:


Anyone try the sight on a carry handle?



Tried to put it on one and it would not fit. It is too wide to to seat all the way down inside the handle. This is on a removable handle. Are the non-removable handles wider?





I'll be putting mine on an A2 when it comes in. I'll let you know...

 
Link Posted: 5/9/2012 11:36:50 PM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:
Anyone try the sight on a carry handle?

Tried to put it on one and it would not fit. It is too wide to to seat all the way down inside the handle. This is on a removable handle. Are the non-removable handles wider?



I put one on a removable carry handle and it fit fine. A little too high, bit it fit in the handle fine. Cardinal forge mark handle......

Makes me think:

Let's see some pictures of how you're mounting the sights.

I'll get some of mine up tomorrow........

Link Posted: 5/10/2012 12:41:26 AM EDT
[#10]
Crappy cell phone pics...





You can see the back end does not sit all the way down in the handle.
Link Posted: 5/10/2012 12:43:07 AM EDT
[#11]
Quoted:
Crappy cell phone pics...

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t311/hilljacknm/Mobile%20Uploads/chs2.jpg

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t311/hilljacknm/Mobile%20Uploads/chs.jpg

You can see the back end does not sit all the way down in the handle.


Where do you have the washers that came with the sight? I was having that same problem and realized the washers need to be on the outside of the sight. Mine fits perfectly on my mil-spec carry handle now.
Link Posted: 5/10/2012 1:11:44 AM EDT
[#12]
They are on the bench. The optic is just sitting on the handle.  If the washers were installed, the nut will not thread on.
Link Posted: 5/10/2012 1:13:34 AM EDT
[#13]
Quoted:
They are on the bench. The optic is just sitting on the handle.  If the washers were installed, the nut will not thread on.


Really? That's odd. Mine works just fine. Is your carry handle Mil-spec?
Link Posted: 5/10/2012 1:22:07 AM EDT
[#14]
Dunno.

Its a Colt Competition HBAR I picked up, back in the 90's .
Link Posted: 5/10/2012 1:27:28 AM EDT
[#15]
That's really weird. Mine fits on there really tight. No movement at all and it looks like it was made for the carry handle.
Link Posted: 5/10/2012 1:30:28 AM EDT
[#16]
I believe it was. This rifle has the large trigger pins and a screw for the front pivot. Maybe the handle is different too?
Link Posted: 5/10/2012 1:32:45 AM EDT
[#17]
Who knows, I guess it's always possible. I really have no clue.
Link Posted: 5/10/2012 2:31:27 PM EDT
[#18]
Very smart thinkin. I like it!
Link Posted: 5/12/2012 9:01:07 PM EDT
[#19]
Mounted on a TA60 mount. gives just the right height - about that of a T1 on a riser mount.



A slightly less costly method is to take a cheap UTG 1/2" riser, drill a hole in it, countersink, and mount it that way. The groove in the top is a bit wider than the base of the sight, but screwed down with a dab of epoxy, it should stay straight. Just a hair shorter than the TA60, but much, much cheaper.





Love not having a damn red dot wash out in the sun......
Link Posted: 5/13/2012 6:54:43 PM EDT
[#20]
I've got a couple extra sights if someone can't find them for sale. IM me for details so I don't get in trouble for an ad in a tech forum.
Link Posted: 5/14/2012 10:14:41 PM EDT
[#21]
Quoted:
Crappy cell phone pics...

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t311/hilljacknm/Mobile%20Uploads/chs2.jpg

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t311/hilljacknm/Mobile%20Uploads/chs.jpg

You can see the back end does not sit all the way down in the handle.


Mine didn't fit so good either, but push down with force and it will "snap" into the handles groove
Link Posted: 5/15/2012 11:27:39 PM EDT
[#22]


















Light tube is from a magnetic shotgun front sight that I picked up at Wal-mart. Had four tubes. One I'm using on my shotgun, this one got Gorilla glued to this sight.





I'll give a range report after I take it out and see how she does...



 
 
Link Posted: 5/16/2012 8:27:52 AM EDT
[#23]
This guy does a great writeup on this sight.
Great pictures and even a Solidworks model!
http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=88918
Link Posted: 5/16/2012 10:49:17 AM EDT
[#24]





Quoted:



Then I noticed the unit inside the casing start to move around.  The alcohol ate up the adhesive holding the internal glass thingy to the metal frame!  It was just knocking around freely.  I used super glue on a toothpick to glue the front and rear portions back in.  It seems ok now, but I have to doubt that this thing will hold up to repeated recoil.



Yep, I had mine for 12 hours before it fell apart on me.




 
 
Link Posted: 5/16/2012 12:17:16 PM EDT
[#25]
Quoted:

Quoted:
Then I noticed the unit inside the casing start to move around.  The alcohol ate up the adhesive holding the internal glass thingy to the metal frame!  It was just knocking around freely.  I used super glue on a toothpick to glue the front and rear portions back in.  It seems ok now, but I have to doubt that this thing will hold up to repeated recoil.

Yep, I had mine for 12 hours before it fell apart on me.
   


That sucks. Mine has held up fine now for a while. Holds zero well.
Link Posted: 5/16/2012 1:12:10 PM EDT
[#26]
Quoted:
Quoted:

Quoted:
Then I noticed the unit inside the casing start to move around.  The alcohol ate up the adhesive holding the internal glass thingy to the metal frame!  It was just knocking around freely.  I used super glue on a toothpick to glue the front and rear portions back in.  It seems ok now, but I have to doubt that this thing will hold up to repeated recoil.

Yep, I had mine for 12 hours before it fell apart on me.
   


That sucks. Mine has held up fine now for a while. Holds zero well.


I think the Brits used maple syrup to glue the glass to the plastic base.
I've kinda given up on attempting to use fiber optics and tritium vials, I'm just going to stick some LEDs on the damn thing.
Link Posted: 5/16/2012 3:57:26 PM EDT
[#27]
Just curious.  How long did it take for these take to be delivered?

Also, how well does the T reticule work with ambient light?  Fiber optics don't work with that one?
Link Posted: 5/16/2012 4:15:28 PM EDT
[#28]
Quoted:
Just curious.  How long did it take for these take to be delivered?

Also, how well does the T reticule work with ambient light?  Fiber optics don't work with that one?


I paid for mine on May 3 and got it yesterday the 15th.

The T reticule is completely invisible in ambient light. I haven't had any luck with fiber optics since the top window is actually frosted glass and not transparent. I'm just going to rig a small battery and switch compartment on the top with a switch to control a red LED for the T reticle and a separate switch for a green for the circle.

Link Posted: 5/16/2012 5:47:18 PM EDT
[#29]
How is everyone removing the bottom screw from the base of the sight? Pliers?
Link Posted: 5/17/2012 5:57:46 AM EDT
[#30]
Got mine.  Have to complain that the black stuff below the viewing window is just a bit too high so it cuts off the bottom of the circle.

I don't know if it's a separate piece from the glass or what, but I would like to find a way to remove it without damaging anything
Link Posted: 5/17/2012 8:34:47 AM EDT
[#31]
Quoted:
How is everyone removing the bottom screw from the base of the sight? Pliers?


Yes. it's got some sort of loctite on the threads. I heated up the threads with a small butane torch for about a minute, clamped some vise grips on it and turned. They're M5 threads.

From what I understand, the T reticle is the one that works off the (now pretty much dead) tritium. The top window allows ambient light in to help the changeover to the T reticle, however that works. I've shined a light in the top window in an attempt to light up the T but it just sends so much light into the prism that light just bounces around the glass and you can't actually see through it any more. That's probably why it's frosted.





Link Posted: 5/17/2012 12:18:06 PM EDT
[#32]
After the link was posted above I went to it and asked the guy if I could repost it here since he was not a member and several question are being asked that his post addresses.
A friend of mine referred me to a thread on ARF about some inexpensive optics that were for sale on Ebay.
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_18/570826_Battery_free__budget_reflex_sight.html
He said he was planning on ordering some for himself and wondered if I was interested in any. I had him get 2 for me with the knowledge that I would be experimenting on one of them so it was expendable. At the time on Ebay they were about $20 USD. The sights are NOS but the tritium has long since died in them.
There are no makers of the sight listed on it when I got it but since it was from England it was not too hard to track down.
Picture of what I received:

























They are much smaller than you think they are. I looked them up in a old 1996-96 edition of Jane's Infantry Weapons and found them. The units are manufactured by Ring Sights in the UK. Their website is http://www.ringsights.com/homepage.htm
The model is Model No. LC-7-40-M16. Here is a pdf pamphlet on the sight and how they operate. http://www.ringsights.com/Tech%20Papers/13171.PDF
This is the same company that makes the ring sight for the FN P90 PDW.
Technical Data on these supplied by Jane's
Aperture - 7mm




Focal Length - 47mm




Length - 63mm




Height - 32mm




Width - 14mm




Weight - 4g
These are designed to be mounted on the M16/AR15 carry handle.





The sights are solid glass in design with screw adjustment external to the optics body.




The sight has two reticules one for day time, a doughnut/ring and an open center "T" for night time. The daytime ring is white and varies in intensity based on how bright of object you are looking at though the scope. Brighter the object, brighter the ring. Being white it can be hard to pick up on certain backgrounds. The night sight "T" is powered by a tritium vial which is now dead in the sight but it also has a window on top of the sight to collect some ambient light so at those periods between light enough for the ring and not dark enough for the tritium you can see the "T". I was able to get a picture of it with a flash light illuminating it. I was unable to photograph the ring but you will see it later further down this review.





Having two sights I was going to try to get one apart to try and replace the tritium since I have several green and red 1.5mm X 5mm vials left over from other projects where I  had ordered extras.




The sight is a cast non magnetic metallic body with only the windage and elevation screws holding the assembly together. These screws are peened over at the end to retain a thick washer and are not made to be removed.










I used a file to remove the peened over ends of the screws.





The pieces of the sight:




The tritium square vial broke when I tried to remove it. (yes I know about the hazards and too precautions).
The stud on the bottom is a standard 5M metric thread and was Loctited in. The solid glass optics is glued to a plastic base that the windage and elevation screws pass through for the adjustments. I broke it free of the plastic base by applying a bit of pressure. No damage was done to either. It looks like some sort of Cyanoacrylate glue might have been used to secure them together.




I made a Solidworks model of the largest components so its easier to understand how it is assembled/works:











Sectioned view




The three vials were enough to illuminate the "T" reticule but I do not think I will be able to reassemble the sight  w/o making new screws for the elevation and windage. I would not buy one of these if you plan on using it with the intention of replacing the tritium in them.
The glass optic is actually four pieces of glass bonded together with black paint on areas to keep out light. Some of the surfaces are semi mirrored.



The light paths appear to be like this:




I took three of the spare tritium vials 1.5mm X 5mm and placed them on a piece of electrical tape.








I taped them where the original vial was located and looked through the sight in a darkened room




Final thoughts:
The sight has a very small window to look through and is very cheek well
dependent. For quick type shooting it might be easier to get use to
once you have a lot of practice with the sight. It certainly is not as
forgiving as an Aimpoint T-1 but it only cost $20 so you can't complain
too much for that. I will also be trying it out with the fiber optic
illumination enhancements mentioned in the ARF thread.  I most likely
will use it on a 22LR or something like that with a cheap ACOG clone
mount.
For $20 its worth it just to play with and test it out.

 
 
 
 

 
Link Posted: 5/17/2012 8:54:02 PM EDT
[#33]




Quoted:

After the link was posted above I went to it and asked the guy if I could repost it here since he was not a member and several question are being asked that his post addresses.





A friend of mine referred me to a thread on ARF about some inexpensive optics that were for sale on Ebay.





For $20 its worth it just to play with and test it out.













wow, just wow
Link Posted: 5/18/2012 4:32:41 PM EDT
[#34]
I think the designers of this sight took their time working on the prism, then started running behind schedule and just stuck the unfinished thing inside a pot metal holder.
I enjoy weekend projects, but none of the things I attempted to make this sight usable worked very well.


It's going to sit in a drawer until I find a use for the parts.




 
 
 
Link Posted: 5/20/2012 11:01:28 AM EDT
[#35]
Bump for updates.  Very cool project.  
Link Posted: 5/20/2012 3:00:54 PM EDT
[#36]
Damnit, another project!  
Link Posted: 5/21/2012 1:10:07 AM EDT
[#37]
Has anyone found cheap flat top mounts for these sights?  I can't seem to find anything under 10$ for the acog style mounts.
Link Posted: 5/21/2012 8:13:56 AM EDT
[#38]
Link Posted: 6/1/2012 11:23:06 AM EDT
[#39]
Bump for future project.  

~Augee
Link Posted: 6/5/2012 8:39:29 PM EDT
[#40]
Link Posted: 6/5/2012 8:52:21 PM EDT
[#41]
Turning the adjuster in the H direction will raise the point of impact.
Link Posted: 6/9/2012 12:28:06 PM EDT
[#42]
While not very sturdy, I got mine set up with a fiber optic rod. The Fixed front sight base on the rifle helps to index the sight very quickly. I am able to find the ring faster than I would be able to line up a front and rear sight. Basically, I see the front sight, and I know the ring is above it so I adjust accordingly.






I used a lighter to bend the fiber optic rod into shape, keeping the flame a few inches away, and letting gravity help me. When it was in a "J" shape, I used some packing tape to hold it in position, and then glued it to the side of the sight in increments, while slowly removing the tape, using flexible cement. When the glue was dry, I the fiber optic rod tag end was point straight back at me, so I again used a lighter to shape it around the body of the sight. I works very well, and I can even pick up the ring indoors. However, it does wash out if looking outside from a dark room.







In direct sunlight the ring is extremely bright. I don't think I even needed as long of a piece of fiber optic as I used, but it is working well and I don't want to mess with it.






















 
Link Posted: 6/19/2012 4:54:39 PM EDT
[#43]
Sites are available on Ebay again.
 
Link Posted: 6/25/2012 8:48:56 PM EDT
[#44]
Quoted:
[

The T reticule is completely invisible in ambient light. I haven't had any luck with fiber optics since the top window is actually frosted glass and not transparent. I'm just going to rig a small battery and switch compartment on the top with a switch to control a red LED for the T reticle and a separate switch for a green for the circle.



"wet" the frosted glass area with some gun oil or something similar and it will allow a lot more ambient light in.  I was using my sight for woodchuck hunting today and there were times when the "T" showed up better than the "O" depending on the lighting where I was standing vs. looking.  Also the Tritium is a radioactive gas that "activates" a phosphor material even though the tritium is exhausted you can activate the phosphor material by using a small blacklight, there are some LED keychain lights available that nearly match the diameter of the top hole. (Maybe this?http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-UV-Light-Forged-Money-Detector-with-Keychain-/140732711205?pt=US_LED_Light_Key_Chains&hash=item20c452c125)  I played around with this method for a while but abandoned it because battery dependant illumination wasn't what I wanted.  If somone could make a UV LED module that would shine through the tip and be compact it might be a viable alternative.

Link Posted: 6/29/2012 11:39:03 AM EDT
[#45]
Link Posted: 7/16/2012 4:35:20 PM EDT
[#46]
tag
Link Posted: 8/2/2012 11:10:27 AM EDT
[#47]
Link Posted: 8/3/2012 3:20:44 PM EDT
[#48]
i wonder  if this would work on a cheaper red dot like primary arms
Link Posted: 8/3/2012 8:55:18 PM EDT
[#49]
I've been searching but can't find any of these except the $55 ones at the link in the OP.  Any leads on the ~$20 ones?
Link Posted: 8/5/2012 10:06:42 AM EDT
[#50]
Quoted:
Well damn.  That's pretty cool.


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