User Panel
[#1]
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[#2]
If you go helmet mounted this Holosun
IR weapon mounted IR Laser is a great option. It duplicates the form & function of the Steiner OTAL at half the price of $270 (Optics Planet pricing) and it uses AA batteries. Holosun IR Laser See my list o' links near the top of page 63. FYI Originally Posted By ThePitt: Just acquired an aurora sport today. Eventually I may get a helmet but for now its mounted on a gun. Haven't been following this thread well. Any tips for a newb? Settings? Lights or lasers? View Quote |
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[#3]
Originally Posted By Johnny_C: If you go helmet mounted this Holosun IR weapon mounted IR Laser is a great option. It duplicates the form & function of the Steiner OTAL at half the price of $270 (Optics Planet pricing) and it uses AA batteries. Holosun IR Laser See my list o' links near the top of page 63. FYI View Quote I grabbed the small Steiner one from TNVC, it was under 300 shipped IIRC. |
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[#4]
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[#5]
I grabbed a Steiner too, but still waiting on back order from a couple weeks ago.
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[#6]
I had one of those in my hand on March 15th.
It certainly looks nice & the versatility to mount it on a handgun or a long gun is appealing, but with the Holosun being at the same price point and using AA batteries it appeals better to me (& I want another long gun laser). If you need a handgun laser, then the Steiner should be a great place to start. Originally Posted By Napalmsticks: I grabbed the small Steiner one from TNVC, it was under 300 shipped IIRC. View Quote |
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[Last Edit: Napalmsticks]
[#7]
Originally Posted By Johnny_C: I had one of those in my hand on March 15th. It certainly looks nice & the versatility to mount it on a handgun or a long gun is appealing, but with the Holosun being at the same price point and using AA batteries it appeals better to me (& I want another long gun laser). If you need a handgun laser, then the Steiner should be a great place to start. View Quote That makes sense. I like the LE117IR model they have on their website. ETA: I just looked at these models and the laser is right over the picatinny mount. It wouldn't work if I top mount with my front sight. |
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[#8]
Does the entire lens glow or, just the LED with the 850s?
If it’s just the LED, could you stick a small piece of tape (1/4”) in the center of the lens to obscure the red glow and still get decent illumination? |
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[#9]
I am speechless. I can't believe I didn't
notice that before & I can't believe that Holosun did that. That's terrible. Originally Posted By Napalmsticks: That makes sense. I like the LE117IR model they have on their website. ETA: I just looked at these models and the laser is right over the picatinny mount. It wouldn't work if I top mount with my front sight. View Quote |
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[#10]
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[Last Edit: barnbwt]
[#11]
Originally Posted By mickdonaldson: Official Number Of Sensor Delay Time From Sionyx I heard back from Anthony Longo at Sionyx. He initially gave me what he recalled was the number for the sensor delay (he was wicked close), but he checked with engineering to be sure. The time it takes data to enter the sensor, and then appear on the EVF, is: 33ms I'm not absolutely positive that you *always* have to add the 16ms Pixel Refresh time to that, but let's assume you do - that gives you a total time of 49ms. Since I never notice any true "lag" during actual use, like Shooting, or like @Pneumagger with Driving, I looked up the first thing I thought of that had a delay, but was wicked fast - the Human Eye Blinking: University College London 100ms - 150ms is the fastest recorded blink and came from that study, others (Google) give anywhere from 100-400ms depending on fatigue state, with the average of 300ms. So there you have it, even at 49ms, the delay is at least 2 times faster than the time it takes to blink. The 'Motion Blur' is absolutely there, real, and apparent at fast pan/tilt speed, and I'm sure a PACT Timer would have you a bit slower with an Aurora, transitioning between two spread out targets at close range...how much would have to be tested - but this "lag time", in real world use, is way overblown IMO. View Quote Fab-tabulous; thanks for posting that! So it seems the refresh rate is the limiting factor (bearing in mind how shitty our own eye's 'frame rate' becomes in even lowish light) Does the delay change based on ambient light/ISO setting? The frame refresh rate is a user-defined setting, not variable automatic? I did a quick Google search "how much latency is bad in gaming?" "Latency is measured in milliseconds, and indicates the quality of your connection within your network. Anything at 100ms or less is considered acceptable for gaming. However, 20-40ms is optimal." 1/20th second sounds damn close to not an issue at all. Again, for gaming, the slew rate that causes bad frame tearing (which I'm guessing is what the 'blur' really is) is far & away the limiting factor, and is why we're seeing such an emphasis on stupid-high frame rates that are far faster than the ~150 our eyes see, in an attempt to get cleaner still frames as they are rendered in real time. But for tracking movement or hand-eye coordination while the field of view is roughly stationary, I can see that it shouldn't be an issue. Night-Parkour might be a problem, however (or running through a shoot-house) I wonder if anyone's tried a spiral refresh pattern rather than linear or interlaced? It would result in a small area at the center of vision that's both captured & displayed within a very narrow time frame, and that /should/ result in a very clean image at the center to give us a better frame of reference for trajectory tracking. I don't care if the two pixels at each end of the top-most line are nearly synced, so much as I care about the center 1/3 where I'm watching something with my primary vision. Has anyone done a tear-down disassembly of any aurora products, yet? |
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[#12]
Originally Posted By steviesterno16: Someone hasn’t been filling this thread. It damn near blackout this thing sucks, but so does a pvs14. Add IR for $25. Giggle like a school girl View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By steviesterno16: Originally Posted By thezentree: My aurora black showed up yesterday afternoon, and after dorking around with it last night and early this morning I am ...underwhelmed at its performance in my darkened house. It works great outside in my neighborhood where there is a lot of ambient light, but it absolutely dies in a dark room where my dark adjusted eyes can see pretty well unaided. It turns to really colorful noise with little to no detail. Oh, and $700 but you can't include a cheap rubber lens cap? I will caveat that with the fact that the only experience I have with NV other than this is looking through my college roommate's PVS-14 in my darkened bathroom six or seven years ago, so my expectations might be a little unrealistic. I'm on the fence about returning it and just saving for a PVS-14. Someone hasn’t been filling this thread. It damn near blackout this thing sucks, but so does a pvs14. Add IR for $25. Giggle like a school girl Also, humans actually have pretty damn good night vision, so it's kind of an unfair comparison (sort of like current digital sensors vs. tube intensifiers). Tubes are only a bit better than human eyes without IR illumination, at the tremendous cost of resolution and field of view for anything but the really dark stuff where our eyes are useless. The main thing, is both tubes and digital are instantly on & adjusted. Human eyes...not so much. |
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[Last Edit: mickdonaldson]
[#13]
Originally Posted By barnbwt: Fab-tabulous; thanks for posting that! View Quote No prob, tech forum = tech posts - at least from me As to the rest, all I can say is the only thing you will notice in use, is the EVF (take your pick:) Pixel Refresh Rate / 'Motion Blur' / 'Smearing' - when you move your head side to side / up and down, above a certain speed. Once you stop, 16ms later, you have a perfect image again. It doesn't bother me and a few other guys in here, that shoot / drive / hunt with them - but it may bother you, everybody is different. The longer you use it/them, the less you seem to notice it / it bothers you - again, individual dependent. The sensor delay is a paper tiger in the real world - you're literally trying to tell someone that twice as fast as an eye blink, is slow.... ok, good luck. I use Camera mode unless recording video (rare) - there's just less to fiddle with, and I've noticed no loss in image quality over 360/24 or 720/30, so why deal with video at all - is my thinking. No tear downs that I know of, I-Fix-It would probably have to do that, probably. Being a consumer digital product, if you don't like it, return it. After getting your feet wet, you may buy a 14 - a few guys have done that, as well. |
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[#14]
Exactly! I have fixed front sight bases on all
of my AR's. I have a Steiner OTAL on my night AR & was intending to buy a Holosun IR laser to build a duplicate backup AR for classes. I have been looking at images to see if the bases might be reversible or something, but I haven't been able to verify. In some of the vids on YT, a couple of the higher end Holosun lasers with illuminators & visible lasers, the QD lever on the other side, so I am still hopeful, but I really assumed Holosun would have copied the form of the Steiner's. I have 4 of the 507/407c red dots & they have been great, so this is a huge let down for me, when it seemed they were so on point with everything I have seen from them before. Originally Posted By Napalmsticks: I just like to have fixed front sights on my rifles. View Quote |
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never underestimate the stupidity of other people
GA, USA
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[#15]
Originally Posted By Johnny_C: Exactly! I have fixed front sight bases on all of my AR's. I have a Steiner OTAL on my night AR & was intending to buy a Holosun IR laser to build a duplicate backup AR for classes. I have been looking at images to see if the bases might be reversible or something, but I haven't been able to verify. In some of the vids on YT, a couple of the higher end Holosun lasers with illuminators & visible lasers, the QD lever on the other side, so I am still hopeful, but I really assumed Holosun would have copied the form of the Steiner's. I have 4 of the 507/407c red dots & they have been great, so this is a huge let down for me, when it seemed they were so on point with everything I have seen from them before. View Quote maybe dumb on my end but if you are dead set on having front sights then couldn't you just put the laser on the bottom of the rail (6 oClock) instead? That's how I used to use my visible lasers for night matches anyway. I like less stuff in my FOV and lights/lasers on top of the gun piss me off. Maybe that's preference but that's what I would think... |
"Holy shit that is way way less work than pushing a wet shit through a tube like I just did" @Kuraki
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[#16]
Hey!
I have my current AR set up with the laser at 12:00, and intend to keep it that way. I have found that lights & lasers mounted at 6:00 have issues with barricades & obstacles, etc. I plan on calling Holosun's CS today to see if I can verify if the mount is configurable. If not, I guess I'll buy another Steiner. I was just hoping to save a little money & try out another Holosun product, but if it won't work, it's not the end of the world for me. Originally Posted By steviesterno16: maybe dumb on my end but if you are dead set on having front sights then couldn't you just put the laser on the bottom of the rail (6 oClock) instead? That's how I used to use my visible lasers for night matches anyway. I like less stuff in my FOV and lights/lasers on top of the gun piss me off. Maybe that's preference but that's what I would think... View Quote |
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[#17]
Originally Posted By steviesterno16: maybe dumb on my end but if you are dead set on having front sights then couldn't you just put the laser on the bottom of the rail (6 oClock) instead? That's how I used to use my visible lasers for night matches anyway. I like less stuff in my FOV and lights/lasers on top of the gun piss me off. Maybe that's preference but that's what I would think... View Quote Yeah, on the side would work too. |
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[Last Edit: Advance]
[#18]
Originally Posted By thezentree: My aurora black showed up yesterday afternoon, and after dorking around with it last night and early this morning I am ...underwhelmed at its performance in my darkened house. It works great outside in my neighborhood where there is a lot of ambient light, but it absolutely dies in a dark room where my dark adjusted eyes can see pretty well unaided. It turns to really colorful noise with little to no detail. Oh, and $700 but you can't include a cheap rubber lens cap? I will caveat that with the fact that the only experience I have with NV other than this is looking through my college roommate's PVS-14 in my darkened bathroom six or seven years ago, so my expectations might be a little unrealistic. I'm on the fence about returning it and just saving for a PVS-14. View Quote Get the FandyFire Illuminator and your opinion of the Aurora is going to go up by an order of magnitude. It is so good, I was a bit let down by my recently purchased X300V. I've got a thread about it here: https://www.ar15.com/forums/Armory/Anyone-own-both-a-Surefire-X300V-and-a-FandyFire-940nm-IR-illuminator-/18-511438/#top
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Deep State Timeline - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1cialWWJ907vV3b9HPS2lhEspZh0WoPHqixUuKed_hFI/edit#gid=125747095
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[#19]
Originally Posted By Johnny_C: Hey! I have my current AR set up with the laser at 12:00, and intend to keep it that way. I have found that lights & lasers mounted at 6:00 have issues with barricades & obstacles, etc. I plan on calling Holosun's CS today to see if I can verify if the mount is configurable. If not, I guess I'll buy another Steiner. I was just hoping to save a little money & try out another Holosun product, but if it won't work, it's not the end of the world for me. View Quote Let us know if the mount can be moved, I'm interested in one if the mount is configurable. |
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never underestimate the stupidity of other people
GA, USA
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[#20]
Originally Posted By Napalmsticks: Yeah, on the side would work too. View Quote @Napalmsticks it does work, but remember lasers shoot straight and bullets are parabolas. So if the laser is above/below the bore you just have to know how much above or below the bullet impact will be compared to the laser at distance. If you have the laser on the side you have to remember that PLUS oh yeah, it's 1.5" to the left of where the bullet will actually end up as well. |
"Holy shit that is way way less work than pushing a wet shit through a tube like I just did" @Kuraki
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[Last Edit: gaspain]
[#21]
15% off my stuff till Monday, you know where to get it
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[#22]
Originally Posted By Napalmsticks: Yeah, on the side would work too. View Quote Be fine. A lot of people prefer a converging zero at "wicked far distance" anyway. Pick a tree at 3/6/900yds, and put the pointer right on your optic's aiming point. Then, the max you'd be off, would be the physical distance between the LASER diode, and the bore, at contact distance, and DOUBLE your "zero" distance (which is already way further than typical night distances with NODs anyway). You just account for the ballistic arc of your round, just like you do with your optic, and the very minimal lateral offset - which is ~1.x" and probably insignificant at night, at distance, under NODs - to worry about. I also imagine that the LASER diodes are pretty close to where they'd be at 12/6 O'clock anyway, just on the opposite side (12 vs 9 for example). Here's an article about "Non-Standard" LAM locations (YMMV): Alternate LAM Placement Was playing around with my PERST-3 last night, as well as Passive Aiming. I shake my head sometimes, at the stuff some of these InstaTube "gurus" spout about things. I heard one say recently: "Forget about Passive Aiming with an LVPO at 1x, under NODs"? Works for me with a Swampfox Arrowhead at 2.25" optic center on an SPR Mount with a slight inboard cant. Binos worked, but are real close to the Occular Lens. I actually preferred flipping my dominant eye unit up, and doing the "Brain Meld" with the reticle and the left eye Monocle. With that method, you don't need an NV setting on the optic, either. This was Dry Fire, but I don't see how touching off a round would have changed anything. More "Do", less "Say" |
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[#23]
Has anyone tried adding a 940nm filter and running in night mode for a straight up IR experience?
Anyone remember how the old Sony 0 lux handicams worked? |
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[Last Edit: R3L04D]
[#24]
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Gun control is like trying to eliminate drunk driving by making it illegal for sober people to own cars
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[#25]
Memorial Day Pig Roast!
Nice :thumbsup: |
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[#26]
I called Holosun Friday. The base
on that laser is not reconfigurable. Bummer! I was thinking I would buy another OTAL, but a friend of mine has suggested that I look at the .7mw DBAL. I will start researching those. Originally Posted By Napalmsticks: Let us know if the mount can be moved, I'm interested in one if the mount is configurable. View Quote |
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[Last Edit: Advance]
[#27]
After 2.5 months stuck in COVID-19 shipping...
Attached File Attached File Attached File 1st impressions? Quality, dovetails work with Norotos female and Wilcox male. L4G24 knock-off has more play in it than genuine Norotos RHNO II (but this has been my experience with genuine Wilcox L4G24 mounts as well). I’d trust this with my PVS-14 as long as I had a lanyard attached. Off to find and file the shoes I purchased for the Auroras. This is the last project I have planned for the SiOnyx gear before it goes up on EE as an “ultimate setup”. |
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Deep State Timeline - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1cialWWJ907vV3b9HPS2lhEspZh0WoPHqixUuKed_hFI/edit#gid=125747095
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[#28]
Got my helmet setup over the weekend. I used the Emerson airsoft helmet and it took a good bit of grinding/sanding to get my Rhino to fit. Other than that I'm happy with the setup. Also held the new Steiner/TNVC laser in my hand and liked what I saw. I live in a pretty urban environment so not a great place to test capabilities but it was fun nonetheless.
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[#29]
Originally Posted By PFran42: After 2.5 months stuck in COVID-19 shipping... 1st impressions? Quality, dovetails work with Norotos female and Wilcox male. L4G24 knock-off has more play in it than genuine Norotos RHNO II (but this has been my experience with genuine Wilcox L4G24 mounts as well). I’d trust this with my PVS-14 as long as I had a lanyard attached. Off to find and file the shoes I purchased for the Auroras. This is the last project I have planned for the SiOnyx gear before it goes up on EE as an “ultimate setup”. View Quote If you have M24 FLIR Shoes, take a file, and do 1 pass down each "Long Side", and then test fit. It will take longer, but that way, you will have zero play between the Shoes and the Bridge. Don't try to force the Shoe to "click in", if you do, you'll have to take a rubber mallet and tap the Bridge off the Aurora- ask me how I know (didn't hurt anything). I got a little overzealous and did like 3 passes each side, a couple times, and ended up with a smidge of play between the Shoes and the Bridge. I just got a SOTAC G24 too - same, was not expecting it to be as good as it is. I've only handled a friends real deal Wilcox, but it too, had some play between the Plunger Pin, and U-Notch Barrel. This one has it too (not a lot) - but I think I can get some 1/8" Heat Shrink around the Pin, to tighten it up. |
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[#30]
Chinese knockoffs are funding the commie army and undermine your fellow Americans.
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[#31]
@Solscud007 (and anyone else who has the SOTAC bino bridge + Wilcox M24 shoes)
I am having issues with getting the M24 Wilcox P/N 61310G01 shoes to snap in to the SOTAC bino bridge. Can you fill me in on which side/edges need to be filed down in order to get proper engagement? Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Deep State Timeline - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1cialWWJ907vV3b9HPS2lhEspZh0WoPHqixUuKed_hFI/edit#gid=125747095
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[Last Edit: mickdonaldson]
[#32]
Originally Posted By PFran42: @Solscud007 (and anyone else who has the SOTAC bino bridge + Wilcox M24 shoes) I am having issues with getting the M24 Wilcox P/N 61310G01 shoes to snap in to the SOTAC bino bridge. Can you fill me in on which side/edges need to be filed down in order to get proper engagement? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By PFran42: @Solscud007 (and anyone else who has the SOTAC bino bridge + Wilcox M24 shoes) I am having issues with getting the M24 Wilcox P/N 61310G01 shoes to snap in to the SOTAC bino bridge. Can you fill me in on which side/edges need to be filed down in order to get proper engagement? Originally Posted By mickdonaldson: If you have M24 FLIR Shoes, take a file, and do 1 pass down each "Long Side", and then test fit. It will take longer, but that way, you will have zero play between the Shoes and the Bridge. Don't try to force the Shoe to "click in", if you do, you'll have to take a rubber mallet and tap the Bridge off the Aurora- ask me how I know (didn't hurt anything). I got a little overzealous and did like 3 passes each side, a couple times, and ended up with a smidge of play between the Shoes and the Bridge. The longest portion, above and below the writing (The P/N: and Cage:). |
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[Last Edit: Napalmsticks]
[#33]
I'm kind of on the fence between keeping my order of the Sionyx Pro or buying a gen 2+ monocular....
ETA: Or in ARFCOM fashion get both? |
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[#34]
Originally Posted By PFran42: @Solscud007 (and anyone else who has the SOTAC bino bridge + Wilcox M24 shoes) I am having issues with getting the M24 Wilcox P/N 61310G01 shoes to snap in to the SOTAC bino bridge. Can you fill me in on which side/edges need to be filed down in order to get proper engagement? ] View Quote Sorry I used dove tails from Lions Gear Solutions. I didnt need to modify anything. |
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[#35]
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Deep State Timeline - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1cialWWJ907vV3b9HPS2lhEspZh0WoPHqixUuKed_hFI/edit#gid=125747095
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[#36]
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Deep State Timeline - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1cialWWJ907vV3b9HPS2lhEspZh0WoPHqixUuKed_hFI/edit#gid=125747095
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[Last Edit: Advance]
[#37]
Originally Posted By mickdonaldson: The longest portion, above and below the writing (The P/N: and Cage:). View Quote @mickdonaldson What faces on the long sides of the M24 shoe did you file? The face closest to the Aurora or the face closest to the bino bridge (when mounted)? Edit: Attached File |
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Deep State Timeline - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1cialWWJ907vV3b9HPS2lhEspZh0WoPHqixUuKed_hFI/edit#gid=125747095
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[#38]
Originally Posted By PFran42: @mickdonaldson What faces on the long sides of the M24 shoe did you file? The face closest to the Aurora or the face closest to the bino bridge (when mounted)? View Quote The actual edge where those to slopes meet (so you will end up flattening it a bit). If you visualize how it interfaces with the socket, it should make sense - that edge is hitting the sides 3/4 of the way in. Take a little bit away, and it will go a bit more forward, take some more, further still - repeat until it clicks in. Go slow, too much and there will be some movement - like I did (but its very minor, even then, I'm going to shim them when I get the Pro's). |
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[#40]
Originally Posted By mickdonaldson: The actual edge where those to slopes meet (so you will end up flattening it a bit). If you visualize how it interfaces with the socket, it should make sense - that edge is hitting the sides 3/4 of the way in. Take a little bit away, and it will go a bit more forward, take some more, further still - repeat until it clicks in. Go slow, too much and there will be some movement - like I did (but its very minor, even then, I'm going to shim them when I get the Pro's). View Quote Thanks! I test fit and held a light behind them in order to see where the interference was, then filed away at the seam you described. Got both shoes to click in with no wobble. Articulation is nice! |
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Deep State Timeline - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1cialWWJ907vV3b9HPS2lhEspZh0WoPHqixUuKed_hFI/edit#gid=125747095
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[#41]
Pics for those considering the SOTAC bino bridge / L4G24 / RHNO II...
Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Deep State Timeline - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1cialWWJ907vV3b9HPS2lhEspZh0WoPHqixUuKed_hFI/edit#gid=125747095
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[Last Edit: Advance]
[#42]
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Deep State Timeline - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1cialWWJ907vV3b9HPS2lhEspZh0WoPHqixUuKed_hFI/edit#gid=125747095
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[Last Edit: Advance]
[#43]
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Deep State Timeline - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1cialWWJ907vV3b9HPS2lhEspZh0WoPHqixUuKed_hFI/edit#gid=125747095
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[#44]
Fantastic pictures and thank you for sharing!
I ordered a Lions Gear FAST mount this AM to try. |
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[#45]
Some additional pics for showing how close to the helmet these binos can get when folded...
SOTAC L4G24 Attached File Attached File RHNO II Attached File Attached File |
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Deep State Timeline - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1cialWWJ907vV3b9HPS2lhEspZh0WoPHqixUuKed_hFI/edit#gid=125747095
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[#46]
sure looks like it puts the NVG lower than the fast mount. thats my only concern. the Wilcox mount may sit higher so it doesnt matter but my rhino is almost maxed in the up.
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callmenoshie: "saying that females have the potential to be "bat shit crazy" is like saying the sky has the potential to be blue."
XCRmonger: "I've seen German Shit Porn that was sexier." |
[#47]
Originally Posted By PFran42: Some additional pics for showing how close to the helmet these binos can get when folded... SOTAC L4G24 https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/309598/IMG_20200528_131139_jpg-1436109.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/309598/IMG_20200528_131151_jpg-1436112.JPG RHNO II https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/309598/IMG_20200528_131312_jpg-1436110.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/309598/IMG_20200528_131304_jpg-1436111.JPG View Quote Looks fancy, BUT how does it really compare apples to oranges to this case?? Any pics of NV with and without IR? |
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[#48]
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Deep State Timeline - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1cialWWJ907vV3b9HPS2lhEspZh0WoPHqixUuKed_hFI/edit#gid=125747095
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[#49]
Originally Posted By slappomatt: sure looks like it puts the NVG lower than the fast mount. thats my only concern. the Wilcox mount may sit higher so it doesnt matter but my rhino is almost maxed in the up. View Quote I went from a MACHOS on a RHINO II, to the SOTAC clones of the SkeetIR Bridge, and G24. I had to Lower, and push forward, the new setup, .vs the old. If you get both, I don't think you'll have a problem... one or the other, no idea. Probably also depends on face/head physical characteristics too. |
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[Last Edit: JLA]
[#50]
This (IRmount MK2) will be available next week.
Opens up room for your nose, all the other mounts fasten from the top which makes the right camera stab your nose. Not with this one! Made of carbon fiber filled plastic secret sauce. I am very exited to bring this new media to the market. You are gonna love it. Similar to Glock plastic but stronger. Has thumb knobs for easy width adjusting too. And comes with carbon shoe. Promotional image removed. Contact [email protected] for details on advertising packages. - JLA |
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