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Posted: 6/20/2019 7:13:26 PM EDT
I presently have a dilapidated fuel storage cabinet. I have used it to store fuel in the past though due to the heat in the non air conditioned building it has had cans over pressure in the past and leak fuel in the container.
Given that I have a newly painted floor, I'm not wanting to dump gasoline on to the new paint. Many ideas will help. |
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[#1]
dont fill the cans??
i rotate thru 5 milspec plastic gas cans, in use for 9 years so far.. in summer I only fill about 3.5 gallons.. gives room for expansion |
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[#2]
I am not sure what a fuel storage cabinet is. I have always used the metal NATO cans and they have never leaked even in this Az heat.
https://deutscheoptik.com/20-Liter-Jerry-Can-SET-OF-FOUR.html |
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[#3]
I'm not sure I understand what you're looking for...
A better can that won't overpressure or leak? We would need to know what you had before and what the climate/storage conditions are... NATO and military cans are generally the best at not leaking but they can get pricey if you're storing more fuel. If you want best value storage that will stay airtight 55 gallon petroleum drums are great storage for cheap... |
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[#4]
Other good storage solutions are repurposed hot water tanks, or say 100# propane tanks, with adequate safety pressure relief valves.
If desired, a larger bung can be installed in either, by torch brazing or silicon bronze TIG 'brazing' [easier]. Bung weldments are available from McMaster Carr for about $10. |
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[#5]
Quoted:
I am not sure what a fuel storage cabinet is. I have always used the metal NATO cans and they have never leaked even in this Az heat. https://deutscheoptik.com/20-Liter-Jerry-Can-SET-OF-FOUR.html View Quote |
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[#6]
Quoted:
I'm not sure I understand what you're looking for... A better can that won't overpressure or leak? We would need to know what you had before and what the climate/storage conditions are... NATO and military cans are generally the best at not leaking but they can get pricey if you're storing more fuel. If you want best value storage that will stay airtight 55 gallon petroleum drums are great storage for cheap... View Quote Attached File Put them on pallets or tarps etc. not concrete. |
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[#7]
Quoted: I've not been lucky with those, had 2; both leaked after less than 2 years of use. One on a seam the other got a pin hole in the body..no dent, wasn't mistreated, just "Ruptured" View Quote |
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[#8]
Quoted:
I am not sure what a fuel storage cabinet is. I have always used the metal NATO cans and they have never leaked even in this Az heat. https://deutscheoptik.com/20-Liter-Jerry-Can-SET-OF-FOUR.html View Quote Hell one time I was rushing over to back scrape around a fire that got out of hand and partially ran over a Euro can with my bulldozer. Was very surprised to find it still holding diesel later- turned it upside down and all around and nothing was leaking. They are pretty well built cans. Back in the 90's I rode around for years with one in the back of my Cherokee without any problems. Things I have done with mine that have helped- 1. If you are using any diesel, put diesel in them first. May do nothing, may help. 2. Spray the bottom and the seams with truck spray under coating. 3. Don't fill them all the way, you need some expansion room- this isn't the place to be OCD. 4.5 gallons typically will be about max in a can. |
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[#9]
Quoted:
3. Don't fill them all the way, you need some expansion room- this isn't the place to be OCD. 4.5 gallons typically will be about max in a can. View Quote The NATO and US Jerry cans are designed to hold the specified amount of fuel and still maintain adequate air-volume for expansion. The coefficient of thermal expansion of gasoline is less than 1/3 the coefficient of air. But air is compressible also. I didn't run it through calculations because it's complicated to account for the varied expansions & the changing vapor pressure of the gasoline but my gut instinct is that the pressure in the doesn't change much no matter how much air you leave in there unless you happen to overfill and there isn't enough expansion space, at which point the pressure will rise sharply. But like I said, the expansion space is designed into the can. I always fill my cans to spec and I've never had any problems. |
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[#10]
Quoted:
I've not been lucky with those, had 2; both leaked after less than 2 years of use. One on a seam the other got a pin hole in the body..no dent, wasn't mistreated, just "Ruptured" View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
I am not sure what a fuel storage cabinet is. I have always used the metal NATO cans and they have never leaked even in this Az heat. https://deutscheoptik.com/20-Liter-Jerry-Can-SET-OF-FOUR.html |
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[#11]
Quoted:
I don't understand this.... The NATO and US Jerry cans are designed to hold the specified amount of fuel and still maintain adequate air-volume for expansion. The coefficient of thermal expansion of gasoline is less than 1/3 the coefficient of air. But air is compressible also. I didn't run it through calculations because it's complicated to account for the varied expansions & the changing vapor pressure of the gasoline but my gut instinct is that the pressure in the doesn't change much no matter how much air you leave in there unless you happen to overfill and there isn't enough expansion space, at which point the pressure will rise sharply. But like I said, the expansion space is designed into the can. I always fill my cans to spec and I've never had any problems. View Quote I'll have to watch better at the pump next fuel run and see what the average is I'm putting in each can. Edited to add- my first thought was "what's 1/4 or 1/2 gallon" but then I thought about the number of cans we have/use. And yes it adds up. |
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[#12]
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[#13]
I treat metal nato cans a little like ammo cans. If they need paint or a bit of help, they get it. No I don't want brand new cans to need sealed inside or something but a seam leaking would probably have me buy some of the gas tank sealer they make for motorcycle gas tanks and coat the inside with that. Yes that stuff is expensive. But a well sealed can is worth what to you?
The pin hole, I would be looking at jb weld or something maybe. Course might also have to open hole up a bit to make it so the jb weld can get ahold of it and seal. They make one for gas tanks. This can would be the one I used for lawn mower gas probably. Give it some rough handling and use and see if it holds up or not. I think any storage should have "all the above" answers. Fuel, water, food, whatever. Small easily portable container for what you are using to rotate. Next larger size can be moved by you but can also be used to refill easily portable container a few times as well. Eventually we probably get to the big containers like a 55 gallon drum that I won't be moving full unless it is on a pallet and I have a pallet jack or I feel like trying to roll it on its bottom edge and not screw up. Nothing wrong with kegs or propane canisters or whatever. Good solid container that is not self venting at average temps and pressures is my goal. |
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[#14]
Quoted: Probably just me but they always seem to send a blast your way when opening them so I've always kept it a little from the top. Probably not always exactly 4.5 gallons however. Maybe me just being cautious??? I'll have to watch better at the pump next fuel run and see what the average is I'm putting in each can. Edited to add- my first thought was "what's 1/4 or 1/2 gallon" but then I thought about the number of cans we have/use. And yes it adds up. View Quote If you've found that leaving them a bit under-filled works for you then don't let my criticism be the driving factor in your storage. I just didn't understand what you were getting at. I thought your concern was with over-pressurizing the tank. That being said, I'm not willing to give up that storage space so I've modified my procedures to keep the problem at bay. |
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[#15]
Quoted:
Ah, now I understand what you mean. Yes, due to the design that prevents over-filling (reserving the necessary air-space for expansion) they do have a tendency to "burp" fuel out if they've warmed up (expanded) since filling. To me this is reassuring that they're holding pressure good, but the fuel waste is annoying so I've gotten in the habit of tipping them back (making the gas bubble move to the lid side) then slowly cracking them open when they're full. If you've found that leaving them a bit under-filled works for you then don't let my criticism be the driving factor in your storage. I just didn't understand what you were getting at. I thought your concern was with over-pressurizing the tank. That being said, I'm not willing to give up that storage space so I've modified my procedures to keep the problem at bay. View Quote The heat definitely seems like it's got something to do with it also, as we get the crazy blast a lot less in cooler weather. |
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[#16]
I have 5 of the douch opticks cans and rotate them every year. On year 3 now. Never had a leak or issue. I fill them to about 5 gallons but I do it on a hot day (in texas) so the air in there is already pretty expanded. Typically no blow off when opened when I do it this way.
However I had just a little bit of gas in them and they sat in my hot truck all day before i filled them. THOSE blew gas everywhere. I think there was more room to expand the gas |
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[#18]
In previous discussions someone explained that gas does not expand with temps, the air is what is is expanding and creating pressure.
These new cans have vent systems and since that is probably where the air is it might be sucking the gas along with it as you vent the setup. Venting a can lets the highly volatile vapors out first. So you are losing some of the best parts of the gas. There are articles on the net about how to take the red can pictured and add a vent to the back part of the handle. Then when you want to pour you can use it like a normal old style can. Lot of youtube stuff shows using stuff for car tires but I don't think that rubber handles fuel long term, so do some reading and studying first. I use red plastic eagle type safety cans for my lawn mowers. So they get emptied and filled several times during the mowing seasons. The nato style cans get filled and put away. I do know from messing with one on a hot summer day to fill an empty gas tank in something they can spew fuel as you crack em open, using a tool to slowly open it vs. me finally forcing it open may have helped on that. |
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[#19]
RJ- I would strongly consider ditching the plastic gas cans.
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[#20]
Spill containment was the words I was looking for.. Thanks for bringing up the Eagle Fuel Can, their site lead me to it.
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[#21]
Quoted:
RJ- I would strongly consider ditching the plastic gas cans. View Quote |
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[#22]
If you have a lot of space I would look for a pallet spill containment setup someone is either getting rid of or clearing out. Pallets usually hold 4 of the 55 gallon drums and those get damaged now and then. No it won't hold 200 gallons but should hold the gas well.
Just plastic that chemicals won't attack from what I recall. In our fuel can oracle someone has nice big farm tanks. They poured a concrete floor and put up concrete brick to contain any major leaks. Believe there is a code it was built to but I forget. |
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[#24]
Quoted:
Those are mainly used for lawn work anymore... I am trying to get back on track with purchasing more MFC's to cover my plan. I was going with the Jack Spirico method of fill a can a month. However the Scepter MFC's bulge out as well. Im not sure how we with did it in the army, the only exception of that being it was diesel fuel, which I guess does better in the heat. View Quote That being said, diesel fuel has a much lower vapor pressure compared to gas. That's why the cans bulge with gas but they didn't in the military w/ diesel. Just to reiterate, pressure inside a fuel container is good. That's what keeps your gas good. If your container is NOT holding pressure you should be concerned. |
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[#25]
Watched a couple videos on the transfer pump/ tank... I get it...
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[#26]
Quoted:
The volatile components of gas create pressure in heat because they're trying to evaporate but the pressure in the container prevents it. The MFCs are meant to contain that pressure w/o failing. It is that airtight storage, that keeps the pressure in that makes fuel last years in storage. You WANT that pressure to build. Don't vent it. That being said, diesel fuel has a much lower vapor pressure compared to gas. That's why the cans bulge with gas but they didn't in the military w/ diesel. Just to reiterate, pressure inside a fuel container is good. That's what keeps your gas good. If your container is NOT holding pressure you should be concerned. View Quote |
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[#27]
Quoted:
So, the bulging wont cause the cap to pop off on the red? or crack the can on the mfc? interesting View Quote All bets are off on the red plastic... I have had a couple red cans split at the seam before. And by split I mean develop pin-hole leaks. |
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[#28]
The 100gal transfer tank is a good option. They are generally cheaper, per gallon stored. (20-5gal cans at $15 ea. is $300)
You can find them for $250ish on sale. They suck for portability tho. A full one is in the 700lb range. The best way to move them is on a pallet, with a piece of plywood on it. Typically, the paint on them is pretty crappy. Another thing I discovered it that they don't like to be hauled longways in the truck. There is an internal slosh baffle that will flex and eventually crack the welds. For protecting your floor, I would start with the big drip pans designed to go under cars. They are 3'x4'ish x 1" deep. It won't contain a major spill, but will help with dribbles and burps from the cans. |
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[#29]
Quoted: Typically, the paint on them is pretty crappy. Another thing I discovered it that they don't like to be hauled longways in the truck. There is an internal slosh baffle that will flex and eventually crack the welds. View Quote |
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[#30]
It is mentioned in the fuel oracle that a lot of the in bed tanks are designed for diesel and not so much for gasoline.
Some of you folks discussing these tanks want to chime in if they had gas in em? I had a diesel pickup for a bit. Bought an aluminum in bed fuel tank and it stated for diesel use only. I did not plumb it into the truck, just used it to fill the truck now and then. It was easy fuel storage and truck was overkill for me so keeping some weight in the bed was a good thing. |
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[#31]
Quoted:
I've been around numerous tanks hauled around in farm trucks and service trucks for years and never seen that happen. Makes me wonder if that was a super cheap tank with walls way too thin to support a baffle? View Quote All I can figure is that the tanks were designed to be mounted cross-bed and this didn't give near the amount of sloshing against the baffle. I had an aluminum 60gal tank/toolbox that made over 750,000 miles in two trucks without issue. Only the ones that were carried longways in the bed. |
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[#32]
Quoted: I don't think so. One was an "Attwoods" house brand, the other I don't remember. When they swapped out the defective one, I asked if this happens a lot. the store manager said no. All I can figure is that the tanks were designed to be mounted cross-bed and this didn't give near the amount of sloshing against the baffle. I had an aluminum 60gal tank/toolbox that made over 750,000 miles in two trucks without issue. Only the ones that were carried longways in the bed. View Quote Yeah, I can see running one around a lot with it mounted 90 degrees from the intended orientation could cause problems with the baffle. Typically the only time I see people put them in that way it is temporary and they pull it back out shortly after using it. |
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[#33]
Quoted:
I am not sure what a fuel storage cabinet is. I have always used the metal NATO cans and they have never leaked even in this Az heat. https://deutscheoptik.com/20-Liter-Jerry-Can-SET-OF-FOUR.html View Quote |
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[#34]
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[#35]
Keep in mind what I'm looking for is for home storage. Not driving around. Once full to any degree it's not moving beyond being 5 gallons
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[#36]
Because the cheap cans leak at the seams, you will find you either buy the good cans or have a plan when the cheap cans leak. I have a couple quart cans of gas tank sealant around here someplace, not sure how long it is good for.
My personal opinion is risk a deal price and consider you may have to chase gas tank sealer that ruins your deal price. But if you caught a good sale, yay. |
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[#38]
Quoted: Are these cans GTG genuine NATO? Just bought a Wavian that was way more expensive for the truck, but I want more cans for home storage. View Quote I'm not sure this is still active or not (it looks like it is) but this price is close enough that I'd pay the small premium and stick to the Wavians. https://www.lucky8llc.com/products/land-rover-nato-style-jerry-can-20l-5-gal-european-military-spec-set-x2 |
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[#39]
Quoted: The Optick cans may or may not use the same spout that fits your Wavian and most folks think the Wavian is the better can. I'm not sure this is still active or not (it looks like it is) but this price is close enough that I'd pay the small premium and stick to the Wavians. https://www.lucky8llc.com/products/land-rover-nato-style-jerry-can-20l-5-gal-european-military-spec-set-x2 View Quote $82. for two them is a bit steep, but shipping costs are stupid on these. Yes it is a different funnel than previous Euro cans. |
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[#40]
Quoted: Same cans as what @Dace posted. $82. for two them is a bit steep, but shipping costs are stupid on these. Yes it is a different funnel than previous Euro cans. View Quote The cans DeutscheOptik sells are made in Poland, Wavians are made in Latvia. They are similar but not identical cans and most folks think the Wavians are the better can. The fuel can oracle posted at the top of the forum has lots of discussion about this. The Optik offer is for 4 cans shipped @ $156.00. The link I posted is for 2 cans shipped @ $82.00, so 4 cans shipped @ 164.00. I would pay the $8.00 premium for Wavians. This is especially true since he already has a Wavian. |
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[#41]
Quoted:
I don't think I understand what you're trying to say. The cans DeutscheOptik sells are made in Poland, Wavians are made in Latvia. They are similar but not identical cans and most folks think the Wavians are the better can. The fuel can oracle posted at the top of the forum has lots of discussion about this. The Optik offer is for 4 cans shipped @ $156.00. The link I posted is for 2 cans shipped @ $82.00, so 4 cans shipped @ 164.00. I would pay the $8.00 premium for Wavians. This is especially true since he already has a Wavian. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted: Same cans as what @Dace posted. $82. for two them is a bit steep, but shipping costs are stupid on these. Yes it is a different funnel than previous Euro cans. The cans DeutscheOptik sells are made in Poland, Wavians are made in Latvia. They are similar but not identical cans and most folks think the Wavians are the better can. The fuel can oracle posted at the top of the forum has lots of discussion about this. The Optik offer is for 4 cans shipped @ $156.00. The link I posted is for 2 cans shipped @ $82.00, so 4 cans shipped @ 164.00. I would pay the $8.00 premium for Wavians. This is especially true since he already has a Wavian. |
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[#42]
Quoted: Wavian is nothing but a company importing the cans. There is no such thing as a "Wavian" NATO can. Wavian is a US brokerage company that imports another companies fuel cans. The link you posted are not Wavian cans (call them, I did). True NATO cans are all made by either VALPRO (Latvia) or GELG (Poland). GELGs cans actually exceed the NATO standard for metal thickness. It is nothing but pure preference what one person like between VALPRO or GELG and neither is "better". Both are used by NATO countries. View Quote I'm not the only one who prefers the Wavians over the Polish cans, you can read all about it in the Fuel Can thread pinned at the top of the forum. As well, the spout and adaptor options are significantly better for the Wavian cans, if that matters to the buyer. Regardless, it's your money so buy what you like. |
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[#43]
Quoted:
Agreed. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/300350/787690C0-F344-4174-ABE1-EB976401F781_jpeg-987433.JPG Put them on pallets or tarps etc. not concrete. View Quote |
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[#44]
Quoted:
As well, the spout and adaptor options are significantly better for the Wavian cans, if that matters to the buyer. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
As well, the spout and adaptor options are significantly better for the Wavian cans, if that matters to the buyer. I don't have a great deal of experience but NATO cans and various spouts. I can tell you what I have that works. My love for NATO cans started with 4 Swiss cans I scored on Craigslist for $30 (total). I got them and realized what all the hype was about. I picked up 8 more mil-surp from Major's last year for ~$24 each (a mix of Valpro and GELG) when another member posted them here in this forum. I finally broke down and ordered a Swiss spout from one of only 2 places you still find them. It was pricey @ $60 but IMHO well worth it. The crappy chinese spout that the guy threw in with the Swiss cans on CL got canned (no pun intended). The chinese spout AND the Swiss spout fit all 12 of my cans no problem. Quoted: Your blue drum looks great. How do you fill and transport it though? In my case I have a mixed fuel storage approach. I have 12 NATO cans, those are used for filling vehicles and can be easily transported. I also have some drums of fuel, they pretty much stay put. I siphon fuel from the drums into the NATO cans when the cans need refilled. |
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[#45]
Quoted:
Aren't we talking about NATO cans? I thought the spouts were mostly universal? I don't have a great deal of experience but NATO cans and various spouts. I can tell you what I have that works. My love for NATO cans started with 4 Swiss cans I scored on Craigslist for $30 (total). I got them and realized what all the hype was about. I picked up 8 more mil-surp from Major's last year for ~$24 each (a mix of Valpro and GELG) when another member posted them here in this forum. I finally broke down and ordered a Swiss spout from one of only 2 places you still find them. It was pricey @ $60 but IMHO well worth it. The crappy chinese spout that the guy threw in with the Swiss cans on CL got canned (no pun intended). The chinese spout AND the Swiss spout fit all 12 of my cans no problem. View Quote I believe I was the one that posted that deal from Major Surplus (link below) and if that's true you received Valpro and Bellinio cans, no Gelg's. https://www.ar15.com/forums/Outdoors/PSA-maybe-Surplus-NATO-jerry-cans/17-692233/ That Swiss spout is awesome. |
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[#46]
Quoted: Yes, we are talking about NATO cans and no, the spouts aren't always universal. The Gelg's can be different enough in the lock up so a Valpro/Wavain spout won't even fit on the can and some can's (including from other manufacturers) have a different air vent inside that can interfere with newer spouts. I don't know if it's still true but as recently as late 2017 the 20L Gelg used a different spout that the 10L Gelg. WTF? I believe I was the one that posted that deal from Major Surplus (link below) and if that's true you received Valpro and Bellinio cans, no Gelg's. https://www.ar15.com/forums/Outdoors/PSA-maybe-Surplus-NATO-jerry-cans/17-692233/ That Swiss spout is awesome. View Quote If the info you provided on the spouts is true then I would say stay away from GELG then... Concur fully on the Swiss spout... I can empty a 20L can in about 35 seconds. But don't tell anybody else or the price will just keep going up. They're already too expensive as it is... |
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[#47]
Quoted:
Thanks for the info... and you're right, Bellinio and Valpro, not GELG... got confused there... I'm still somewhat newish to NATO cans as you can probably tell. If the info you provided on the spouts is true then I would say stay away from GELG then... Concur fully on the Swiss spout... I can empty a 20L can in about 35 seconds. But don't tell anybody else or the price will just keep going up. They're already too expensive as it is... View Quote |
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[#48]
Quoted:
The 100gal transfer tank is a good option. They are generally cheaper, per gallon stored. (20-5gal cans at $15 ea. is $300) You can find them for $250ish on sale. They suck for portability tho. A full one is in the 700lb range. The best way to move them is on a pallet, with a piece of plywood on it. Typically, the paint on them is pretty crappy. Another thing I discovered it that they don't like to be hauled longways in the truck. There is an internal slosh baffle that will flex and eventually crack the welds. For protecting your floor, I would start with the big drip pans designed to go under cars. They are 3'x4'ish x 1" deep. It won't contain a major spill, but will help with dribbles and burps from the cans. View Quote |
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[#49]
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[#50]
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