User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 12:36:10 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Do not listen to the people telling you to beat the rotor on the sides. Your rotor is fine, do not damage it. The hub face of the rotor between the studs is where it needs to be smashed with a hammer. Light taps to the rim of the rotor are okay. ETA: page 2 edit |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 12:38:01 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Now that I see in the other pics those pads actually slide in the holder. Dirt and rust gets under those clips and jams the pads, thats where you need to clean. All pads slide in the "holder". That's how brakes work. Do you think the caliper intimidates the rotor into stopping? |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 12:43:34 PM EDT
[#3]
I always smear some wheel bearing grease on the back of the rotor, seems to help prevent them getting stuck on there like that. You really needed a brake job.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 12:44:33 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Caliper hanging up possibly? Take off the caliper and Greese the slide bolts and the slide brackets on the caliper bracket. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 12:45:54 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Maybe partially siezed caliper causing wear drag? How are the sliders? Your piston(s) are sticking inside the caliper. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 12:47:35 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Only poor people or idiots replace only pads. I replace everything and inspect everything. Brakes are kind of important. And I don't know what the fuck is going on with your rotor in that 2nd pic. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 12:48:01 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'm in a good mood so I'll go easy... All pads slide in the "holder". That's how brakes work. Do you think the caliper intimidates the rotor into stopping? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Now that I see in the other pics those pads actually slide in the holder. Dirt and rust gets under those clips and jams the pads, thats where you need to clean. All pads slide in the "holder". That's how brakes work. Do you think the caliper intimidates the rotor into stopping? |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 12:51:33 PM EDT
[#8]
Rotors are cheap. Replace them.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 12:54:52 PM EDT
[#9]
If it was my wifes vehicle I'd replace the assy asap. Mine? I'd wait till it goes metal to metal and then replace them.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 12:55:33 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Kinda gotta get the saddle off to remove the rotor.... And for "Beat the fuck out of it" clowns, thanks. Sells lots of parts & work for real mechanics. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 12:57:34 PM EDT
[#11]
Piston pushed back in no problem so I don't think that was seized. I'm just slapping it all back together and figuring out my options. $120 total for pads and rotors for both sides may just do it.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 1:01:49 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Some systems the pads are fixed to the caliper which does the all sliding. And I'm glad you are in good mood, you must not work on brakes much. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 1:05:31 PM EDT
[#13]
Rotors look fine, if it were my car id just grease the calipers and replace the pads and rotors
when i do brakes i buy everything i need to do the job and only rarely do i have to replace a caliper. I am getting a new to me car and with that i plan on replacing everything for the brakes as i dont know the history of maintance on it and my son will be riding in it as well. for the good parts i can get them cheap and its worth it, plus i will know the history of when they were done last. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 1:06:56 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Maybe partially siezed caliper causing wear drag? How are the sliders? That's my experience. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 1:07:33 PM EDT
[#15]
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 1:09:14 PM EDT
[#16]
Do not hammer on the rotors, it won't get them off. Rent or borrow a puller.
My BIL tried to hammer off his rotors, after an hour I saw what he was doing and used my puller. Took no time at all. 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 1:10:21 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Run the right size bolt into that hole, it will pop right off. I don't remember the size however sorry. Maybe you can go to the parts store and try bolts on a new rotor to get the correct size. You don't want to mess up the old rotor with the wrong bolt |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 1:11:48 PM EDT
[#18]
I agree with everyone saying to replace the rotor too. You're already there, everything is alright apart.
You should flush the lines too. That's something a lot of people overlook. ETA: This was the last brake change I did. My car was like 70K miles and 3 years old I think. (The right is the old fluid moving left to the newer stuff getting pushed out). You can't tell in the pic but there's little bits of shit in the old fluid too.  Attached File |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 1:22:22 PM EDT
[#19]
Quoted:
Getting a grinding when I'm not even braking, then it sounds like sandpaper rubbing against sandpaper when I am braking. Pads seem to have some decent thickness left to them, except the one in the back seems to be wearing faster? Thinking its the rotors? Replace pads too?  Metal-on-metal on the inboard pad. Time for new brakes, and possibly caliper pins if they don't move. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 1:29:41 PM EDT
[#20]
Lol at the pad swap guys.
Yeah, I don't blame you heavy truck guys for doing that (because its a pain in the dick to replace the rotors on a heavy duty truck), but this looks like a throwaway GM FWD car, which means that rotors are less than $50, each, from the dealer. They are designed to be disposable, and anything that has worn that far would be out of spec even if the inboard pad didn't go metal on metal. By the time you even true the face of the rotors there won't be anything left. 
If the rotor is stuck, use some heat between the studs on the hat of the rotor, and then hit it with a hammer (mind the studs, of course). Should pop right off. Lol at the puller guys on that, I have NEVER used a puller to remove a stuck brake rotor, or drum. 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 1:36:38 PM EDT
[#21]
OP....could it be a wheel bearing making that grinding noise? Those rotors look fine.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 1:38:58 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
There is absolutely nothing wrong with replacing the brake pads only. I only fix what is necessary. There are specs for everything. Why throw away good rotors? If you're just throwing new pads on used rotors, well, LOL. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 1:43:01 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
ONLY if the rotor needs to come off. To inspect all you need is one pin. And for "Beat the fuck out of it" clowns, thanks. Sells lots of parts & work for real mechanics. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Kinda gotta get the saddle off to remove the rotor.... And for "Beat the fuck out of it" clowns, thanks. Sells lots of parts & work for real mechanics. Every "real mechanic" in salt country has a BFH for just that purpose. Who cares if you wreck the rotor? It needs new ones anyway, and they're cheap. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 1:45:10 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote History |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 1:48:10 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Only poor people or idiots replace only pads. I replace everything and inspect everything. Brakes are kind of important. And I don't know what the fuck is going on with your rotor in that 2nd pic. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 1:52:13 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Change it all. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 1:54:39 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Sweet rotors, pads, lines, calipers and master every 20k miles sounds smart to me.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 1:57:39 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
LOL. If the rotor is in spec and not warped, then there is no need to replace it. Same for calipers. I've done pads only many, many times over with zero problems. This. I've also found my Honda's have lasted in spec far longer than any GMs I've ever owned. My RAM isn't that great either and requires a full set of pads/rotors all around and full pin removal/lube for sanity's sake. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 1:57:50 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
There is absolutely nothing wrong with replacing the brake pads only. I only fix what is necessary. There are specs for everything. Why throw away good rotors?
Rotors are like $50 a piece. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 2:04:21 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Piston pushed back in no problem so I don't think that was seized. I'm just slapping it all back together and figuring out my options. $120 total for pads and rotors for both sides may just do it. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 2:07:03 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That inside pad looks totally shot, and I agree I bet the tab is rubbing on that pad The right way is to replace rotors and pads, yank the caliper apart replace bushings, grease, clearance the new pads,install new clips, check for fit and travel, flush and fill the brake fluid and bleed all 4 corners...do most people do that? Nope, do most shops do that? Nope. And yet the world keeps spinning. Yes brakes are important, but as long as there is friction material on the pads and fluid in the system they will stop. Properly setup brakes work better but disc brakes are pretty damn forgiving in the real world. A correct brake job on all 4 corners can take 4 hours or more if you know what you are doing have all the tools and do everything absolutely "correct". Change the pads OP. Rotors too if you can swing it. If not new pads on ugly ass rotors will safely stop you, they may not last, and they may pulse or talk or pull but they will stop. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 2:46:35 PM EDT
[#32]
Listening to arfcom give car advice is like listening to a gun counter guy
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 2:50:49 PM EDT
[#33]
When I was young, I would have replaced the rotors, pads, and rebuilt the calipers.
Mrs Rabinowitz doesn't allow it anymore. I have it professionally done. I suggest the same. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 2:53:32 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Maybe partially siezed caliper causing wear drag? How are the sliders? I see two brand new reman calipers in your future. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 2:54:00 PM EDT
[#35]
Are these the calipers that require a hex wrench to retract the piston ala Mazda and some Fords? I know it is a GM. Just don't know if they have changed style.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 2:57:21 PM EDT
[#36]
If they are phenolic pistons they will only sieze when the brake heats up, like when you are in stop n go traffic. Then when the caliper is cool they release and seem to work normally.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 3:05:58 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If they are phenolic pistons they will only sieze when the brake heats up, like when you are in stop n go traffic. Then when the caliper is cool they release and seem to work normally. (brake fire on the Neon did one in, the other was the rear caliper piston for an S10 Blazer, which had started to grind, and then exploded while I was driving it.)
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 3:08:00 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Piston pushed back in no problem so I don't think that was seized. I'm just slapping it all back together and figuring out my options. $120 total for pads and rotors for both sides may just do it. I finally replaced rotors and pads with the help of folks here. It brakes fine now. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 3:09:15 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That inside pad looks totally shot, and I agree I bet the tab is rubbing on that pad |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 3:11:13 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Did you use a c clamp to push it in? If so it could still be sticking. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 3:12:09 PM EDT
[#41]
Typical fashion I get 100 diff answers here. I bought some grease for the pins and greased them up since they didnt have any on them. Also only did the pass side cause I was lazy. I will attack it this weekend. Wondering what tab you guys see rubbing metal on metal on the inside brake pad? I don't see any of the tabs hitting the rotor?
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 3:12:33 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Every video uses a C clamp or similar to push the piston in. How do you determine if the piston is sticking? 
9/10 its the slides that stick, not the whole piston. 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 3:13:51 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Typical fashion I get 100 diff answers here. I bought some grease for the pins and greased them up since they didnt have any on them. Also only did the pass side cause I was lazy. I will attack it this weekend. Wondering what tab you guys see rubbing metal on metal on the inside brake pad? I don't see any of the tabs hitting the rotor? Also, what kind of vehicle is it, kind of important if you actually want a good answer.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 3:15:15 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Take a picture of all of the parts, please. Also, what kind of vehicle is it, kind of important if you actually want a good answer. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 3:16:08 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
LOL. If the rotor is in spec and not warped, then there is no need to replace it. Same for calipers. I've done pads only many, many times over with zero problems. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 3:28:55 PM EDT
[#46]
Seized piston. Rebuild or replace.
Also new pads and rotors, then bed. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 3:39:02 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
There is absolutely nothing wrong with replacing the brake pads only. I only fix what is necessary. There are specs for everything. Why throw away good rotors? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Only poor people or idiots replace only pads. I replace everything and inspect everything. Brakes are kind of important. And I don't know what the fuck is going on with your rotor in that 2nd pic. My OEM Toyota rotors have 160k miles on them. No reason to put "new" Chinese made rotors that could be defective. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 3:39:37 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Can't get the rotor off anyways, doesn't want to seem to budge even after hammering it. I see a little indent in the rotor is there a screw or something in there I need to take out before taking it off? Here is a pic of the pads and rotor. This is the front pass side by the way. https://preview.ibb.co/i6Ktj5/IMG_20170823_121300.jpg https://image.ibb.co/iTvAWk/IMG_20170823_121702.jpg |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 3:55:28 PM EDT
[#49]
I just changed the OEM pads and rotors on my Mazda 6 at 90k miles. The rear pads showed wear similar to yours. I'd suggest removing the old grease on the caliper pins and inside the caliper pin channels every 30k miles and relube. Make sure you lube the tabs on the end of the pads as well
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/23/2017 4:07:31 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Mentioned earlier its a 2014 mazda 6. I'm just going to replace everything this weekend. Its short money for all parts less than $120. The piston pushed back in very easily with the brake pad as a barrier and a c-clamp. Car only has 50k. There's your answer, buy the parts, clean out and lube the caliper guides properly, done in around a couple of hours. |
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
Attached File
Attached File