How do these brake rotors look? - Page 3

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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - How do these brake rotors look? (Page 3 of 3)

Posted: 8/23/2017 4:09:14 PM EDT

[#1]

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Rotors look fine, if it were my car id just grease the calipers and replace the pads and rotors

when i do brakes i buy everything i need to do the job and only rarely do i have to replace a caliper.

I am getting a new to me car and with that i plan on replacing everything for the brakes as i dont know the history of maintance on it and my son will be riding in it as well.
for the good parts i can get them cheap and its worth it, plus i will know the history of when they were done last.

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I'm not as lucky. I had to replace my rear calipers for my Golf earlier this year. one of the slides were seized so badly in the bracket that it had to be coaxed out with a torch.

Posted: 8/23/2017 4:14:39 PM EDT

[#2]

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Are you a beach lifeguard? That's a lot of rust!

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Lol if you think that's bad I should show you some vehicles that have been on MI roads for 20 winters.

Posted: 8/23/2017 4:15:18 PM EDT

[#3]

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I'm with you. Pads I would replace, but not rotors.

My OEM Toyota rotors have 160k miles on them. No reason to put "new" Chinese made rotors that could be defective.

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You can get the genuine Toyota rotors online for not that much more than the Chinese ones. I have a new set of OEM pads and OEM rotors I bought a few years ago online in anticipation of my second front pad change on my 2003 Tacoma. It has 190k on it now. I change rotors after 2 pads.

I even bought a set of rear drum shoes but the rear shoes still have so much meat on them I don't think I'll ever have to change the rears.

This truck has towed a 19 ft bass boat its whole life too.

Posted: 8/23/2017 4:19:08 PM EDT

[#4]

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Spoken like a guy who lives in the desert.

Every "real mechanic" in salt country has a BFH for just that purpose. Who cares if you wreck the rotor? It needs new ones anyway, and they're cheap.

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Kinda gotta get the saddle off to remove the rotor....

ONLY if the rotor needs to come off. To inspect all you need is one pin.

And for "Beat the fuck out of it" clowns, thanks. Sells lots of parts & work for real mechanics.

Spoken like a guy who lives in the desert.

Every "real mechanic" in salt country has a BFH for just that purpose. Who cares if you wreck the rotor? It needs new ones anyway, and they're cheap.

Yup. Gotta have the BFH, torch, cheater bar, bandaids, and copious amounts of never seize if you live in salt country. I coat the hub with never seize, all hardware with never seize, slide the rotor on and coat where the wheel touches the rotor with never seize. Copious, copious amounts.

Also, you want to nake sure the pads slide freely on those clips. If they dont you need to file off of the rust under the clips until they do. I drive my personal truck about 4k to 5k a year and have to do an annual brake job to it since it sits so much. Lots of practice.

Posted: 8/23/2017 4:23:37 PM EDT

[#5]

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$120 for all the parts?

There's your answer, buy the parts, clean out and lube the caliper guides properly, done in around a couple of hours.

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It's probably around $120 in parts for the front pads and rotors

Posted: 8/23/2017 4:27:42 PM EDT

[#6]

Just grease them up real good, that will quiet them down!

Posted: 8/23/2017 4:30:51 PM EDT

[#7]

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I should show you some vehicles that have been on MI roads for 20 winters.

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Isn't that the truth

Posted: 8/23/2017 4:34:18 PM EDT

[#8]

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It's probably around $120 in parts for the front pads and rotors

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$120 for all the parts?

There's your answer, buy the parts, clean out and lube the caliper guides properly, done in around a couple of hours.

It's probably around $120 in parts for the front pads and rotors

$120 for OEM or AutoZone?
There is a difference with brake parts.

Posted: 8/23/2017 4:36:51 PM EDT

[#9]

Rotors are not that much more vs turning them and those look like rusted shit. Replace the rotors and pads!

Posted: 8/23/2017 4:45:49 PM EDT

[#10]

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$120 for OEM or AutoZone?
There is a difference with brake parts.

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OEM Mazda pads are junk. I already had the fronts replaced about 20,000 ago.

Posted: 8/23/2017 4:47:05 PM EDT

[#11]

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$120 for OEM or AutoZone?
There is a difference with brake parts.

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I never get OEM for Honda/Acura, over priced and mediocre. StopTech or Centric with painted hubs are inexpensive and good quality. My dad put Centric on his Silverado. For the price there is no reason not to change the rotors.

Posted: 8/23/2017 5:04:42 PM EDT

[#12]

Performance differences aside, one of the nice things about sticking with OEM is you know you're not going to run into any fitment issues, or any problems down the road from an imperfect fit, which can happen sometimes with the aftermarket stuff.

OEM pads also tend to make much less dust.

Posted: 8/23/2017 5:18:18 PM EDT

[#13]

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Performance differences aside, one of the nice things about sticking with OEM is you know you're not going to run into any fitment issues, or any problems down the road from an imperfect fit, which can happen sometimes with the aftermarket stuff.

OEM pads also tend to make much less dust.

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Agree with ya here. I ordered two Centric C-Tek rotors and Power Stop brake pads total of $102 on Amazon. We will see how they do.

Posted: 8/23/2017 7:54:04 PM EDT

[#14]

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OEM Mazda pads are junk. I already had the fronts replaced about 20,000 ago.

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That's not true. It might have more to do with your braking style. I also have a Mazda 6 and just replaced my original OEM pads and rotors at 95k miles. I replaced them with Bosch Quietcast

Posted: 8/23/2017 8:08:56 PM EDT

[#15]

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You can get the genuine Toyota rotors online for not that much more than the Chinese ones. I have a new set of OEM pads and OEM rotors I bought a few years ago online in anticipation of my second front pad change on my 2003 Tacoma. It has 190k on it now. I change rotors after 2 pads.

I even bought a set of rear drum shoes but the rear shoes still have so much meat on them I don't think I'll ever have to change the rears.

This truck has towed a 19 ft bass boat its whole life too.

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I love rear drums. Clean em, lube the backplate once in a while-maybe crank out the adjuster. They last forever.

I found Toyota OE parts reasonable. Now that I have a Honda beater I'm at Vatozone a lot. Dealer is

.

Posted: 8/23/2017 8:13:05 PM EDT

[#16]

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Jesus tittyfucking Christ. WHY remove the caliper bracket? Pull ONE pin & swing the caliper.

Buy a Service Manual.

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Can't get the rotor off anyways, doesn't want to seem to budge even after hammering it. I see a little indent in the rotor is there a screw or something in there I need to take out before taking it off? Here is a pic of the pads and rotor. This is the front pass side by the way.

https://preview.ibb.co/i6Ktj5/IMG_20170823_121300.jpg
https://image.ibb.co/iTvAWk/IMG_20170823_121702.jpg

Jesus tittyfucking Christ. WHY remove the caliper bracket? Pull ONE pin & swing the caliper.

Buy a Service Manual.

And that's the reason I don't take cars to mechanics. A year later when that one you didn't bother with freezes up, I get to pay for your laziness. Plus, you didn't want to get your hands greezy so you didn't bother to lube the one you DID take out. [you did of course charge for all new brake parts though..............]

Posted: 8/23/2017 8:13:46 PM EDT

[#17]

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Does the inboard pad have a metal tab that's contacting the rotor?
If so, there's your noise.

They do that by design to let you know it's time for service.

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I think this.

Wear indicator tab built into the brake pad designed to contact the rotor when the pads reach a certain thickness.