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Posted: 11/16/2020 9:40:20 AM EDT
[#1]
Have any of you guys built these in nylon/carbon fiber?
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Posted: 11/23/2020 3:51:10 PM EDT
[#2]
I'm going to try my hand at printing one of these this week. Any tips or settings that I should use outside of what is included in the .pdf? I'll be using eSun pla+.
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Posted: 11/23/2020 7:41:25 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I'm going to try my hand at printing one of these this week. Any tips or settings that I should use outside of what is included in the .pdf? I'll be using eSun pla+. Definitely get everything calibrated with that filament before printing. E-steps, flow rate, z-offset, etc. I didn't do this and got a few layers in before realizing my flow rate was a bit high and had to start over. |
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Posted: 12/9/2020 10:42:56 AM EDT
[#4]
Can someone send me a direct link to the .stls? I dont want to install keybase or whatever this crap is.
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Posted: 12/9/2020 11:51:23 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Can someone send me a direct link to the .stls? I dont want to install keybase or whatever this crap is. |
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Posted: 12/9/2020 1:01:47 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted: We can't link directly to most print files on this forum, unfortunately. Basically, CoC #3. Most sites that have files for these types of items have files for swift links and other illegal items. Is there a site hosting the files where I dont need to DL a 170mb program and install it? |
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Posted: 12/9/2020 1:45:19 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Is there a site hosting the files where I dont need to DL a 170mb program and install it? The Hellfire is public now, the Wildfire is currently in transition from beta to public release. Not sure of the date of release yet but it will be on the same site as the Hellfire and other 2a goodies. With that said if you happen to type ctrlpew into your favorite search engine you'll work to the location to procure these without violating Coc. |
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Posted: 12/9/2020 6:20:31 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The Hellfire is public now, the Wildfire is currently in transition from beta to public release. Not sure of the date of release yet but it will be on the same site as the Hellfire and other 2a goodies. With that said if you happen to type ctrlpew into your favorite search engine you'll work to the location to procure these without violating Coc. Try "lbry deterrence dispensed" in your favorite search engine, also. Not posted there yet, but probably will soon. Lots of others posted on lbry also. |
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Posted: 12/9/2020 11:26:34 PM EDT
[#9]
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Posted: 12/10/2020 1:33:25 AM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: So far it looks acceptable https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/481318/20201209_211110_jpg-1723484.JPG Curious to see what it looks like in the morning. My printer has decided it doesn’t want to stick plastic to the bed. I can’t nail down what’s changed since my last print. Oh well. |
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Posted: 12/10/2020 7:57:16 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: My printer has decided it doesn’t want to stick plastic to the bed. I can’t nail down what’s changed since my last print. Oh well. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: So far it looks acceptable https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/481318/20201209_211110_jpg-1723484.JPG Curious to see what it looks like in the morning. My printer has decided it doesn’t want to stick plastic to the bed. I can’t nail down what’s changed since my last print. Oh well. One side came loose overnight ?? |
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Posted: 12/10/2020 10:59:06 PM EDT
[#12]
Couldn't get the inner supports to stick with hairspray or glue. Gave up and sliced it with a raft.
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Posted: 12/10/2020 11:20:29 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Couldn't get the inner supports to stick with hairspray or glue. Gave up and sliced it with a raft. From what I can see in your above photo it looks like you have under extrusion, or nozzle height/z-offset is too high. Looks like there are gaps between lines. This will cause issues like corners of your print warping up, parts of the print or supports not sticking, etc. |
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Posted: 12/10/2020 11:39:55 PM EDT
[#14]
Why am I having trouble finding these files. I want to download them all.
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Posted: 12/11/2020 12:00:35 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It's nice that everything is 3d printable but unless there's a specific reason for it, they should design the fasteners and threads to be replaceable with actual hardware. It should also allow assembly with regular tools instead of a 3d printed assembly tool. This design's socket screws don't seem to match up with real allen wrenches. Every one I tried had too much slop. Mine works with a 7mm allen but most sets don't come with 7mm. |
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Posted: 12/11/2020 3:00:46 PM EDT
[#16]
any idea wtf is going on here?
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Posted: 12/11/2020 3:42:40 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryGive us a little info. filament brand, nozzle temp, bed temp, speed. quick guess is nozzle too far from bed. |
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Posted: 12/11/2020 4:10:22 PM EDT
[#18]
Paramount pla in OD (ive successfully printed a lower with this before.)
Standard quality .2mm layer height. 190* and 50* (per the filament instructions) 40mm/s speed Im about to swap in some black I have just as a test to rule out this filament. EDIT: not filament. Black doing the same thing. |
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Posted: 12/11/2020 4:47:37 PM EDT
[#19]
190 is kind of low for PLA, especially for a first layer. Bump it up to 210 for the first layer, back it off to 205/200 for the rest.
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Posted: 12/11/2020 5:28:58 PM EDT
[#20]
Not terrible, not great. Thankfully this spool of no name pla is only .5kg and almost empty because I wouldn't use it again.
 Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 12/11/2020 8:02:44 PM EDT
[#21]
Do you guys know if anyone has designed a 3d printed AR upper? I have a CMMG 22 kit laying around and it'd be cool to do a rifle or pistol with the upper, mags, grip, and lower 3d printed. I've printed a few 22 mags so far and they work great with my cmmg kit.
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Posted: 12/11/2020 8:35:16 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Do you guys know if anyone has designed a 3d printed AR upper? I have a CMMG 22 kit laying around and it'd be cool to do a rifle or pistol with the upper, mags, grip, and lower 3d printed. I've printed a few 22 mags so far and they work great with my cmmg kit. I believe there is an upper or two on thingiverse right now. As far as the quality or fitment not sure. Just within the past week on keybase a beta went live with an upper/rail that is designed around the cmmg kit. The way things have been progressing a 95%+ printed semiauto 22lr isn't too far off. |
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Posted: 12/12/2020 12:28:18 AM EDT
[#23]
Can someone link me these files.
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Posted: 12/12/2020 12:55:47 AM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Can someone link me these files. |
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Posted: 12/12/2020 4:54:27 PM EDT
[#25]
Turned out awesome. Just printing the remaining parts. I have some PLA+ that I will try next as well as some nylon. Although, I had a bitch of a time printing nylon a long time ago (made a gear). Since, I've upgraded to a 700watt heated bed, so it should work better. I might try ABS as well since I've ironed out all the issues I've had with it in the past.
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Posted: 12/12/2020 5:08:48 PM EDT
[#26]
Wouldn't petg or abs be better for something like this?
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Posted: 12/12/2020 5:42:31 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Wouldn't petg or abs be better for something like this? |
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Posted: 12/12/2020 7:23:36 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I believe there is an upper or two on thingiverse right now. As far as the quality or fitment not sure. Just within the past week on keybase a beta went live with an upper/rail that is designed around the cmmg kit. The way things have been progressing a 95%+ printed semiauto 22lr isn't too far off. I printed the one on thingiverse a few months back and while it would probably work a few times there was too much flex for any kind of accuracy. Ill check keybase and see if I can find that upper. |
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Posted: 12/13/2020 6:03:31 PM EDT
[#29]
Long bolt was not a happy camper for this build. Had to hammer it in and then screw it in with pliers.
 Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 12/14/2020 7:29:37 PM EDT
[#30]
Hellfire went public today so it's available at the "wink wink" place
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Posted: 12/26/2020 4:54:11 PM EDT
[#31]
Had to order a filament heater/dryer to dehumidify my hatchbox gray PLA so I could print all the parts to complete the lower. Turned out pretty good. Settings on this one were 0.4 nozzle, 0.2 layer height, 50mm/s speed, 6 wall line count, and 195c/60c.
 Attached FileRan some test prints and calibrations earlier for this new roll of pink esun pla+ I had. Settled at 205/60c, same 0.4 nozzle, dropped speed to 40mm/s, and dropped layer height to 0.16 to see if the detail gets any better. I started at 215c and z-hop enabled but I was getting a lot of strings and boogers, so dropped temp and disabled z-hop and restarted the print(was <10 layers in so not too much wasted filament). I'm currently about 5 layers in on the redo and it looks good so far. This filament was brand new, unsealed this morning, but still baked it in my heater/dryer for a few hours during the tests/calibrations just in case. |
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Posted: 12/26/2020 5:04:22 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Long bolt was not a happy camper for this build. Had to hammer it in and then screw it in with pliers. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/481318/20201213_160055_jpg-1729456.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/481318/20201213_160112_jpg-1729457.JPG Use a razor blade or even a dremel to carefully de-burr the long strut bolt to clean it up. Then hit it with a heat gun to get rid of the white stress coloring all over it. Make sure to evenly heat it, and don't hold the heat gun too close because PLA will warp and sag if it gets too hot. I'd be worried about the structural integrity of that strut, though. If it wasn't properly threaded in then it might take less pressure to pull that buffer plate away from the receiver, which the strut is designed to stop. |
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Posted: 12/27/2020 12:33:22 PM EDT
[#33]
So I just printed the main receiver with a 0.8mm nozzle and 0.4mm layer depth. Printed super fast, is super strong, and I'll print the rest with a 0.4mm nozzle and 0.2mm layer height.
I think all that needs to happen with the receiver is chasing the holes with a drill bit. I also need to get some of the goobers and stringing to go away; it's been better of late with some adjustments to temperature and retraction, but...  
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Posted: 12/27/2020 10:00:04 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Do you guys know if anyone has designed a 3d printed AR upper? I have a CMMG 22 kit laying around and it'd be cool to do a rifle or pistol with the upper, mags, grip, and lower 3d printed. I've printed a few 22 mags so far and they work great with my cmmg kit. Yeah, you want to search for the polyplinker. Works great. No problem ringing steel at 100 yards. Initially I was having issues with the barrel and barrel nut not being secure and flopping around but I just said fuckit and bedded the barrel and nut in with some strong two part glue. I'm using a dedicated .22 barrel. 
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Posted: 12/27/2020 10:02:25 PM EDT
[#35]
Second Hellfire complete, first one in PLA+(eSun pink). Settings were 0.4 nozzle, 205/60c, 0.16 layer height as a test to see if rollmarks looked better, speed 40mm/s.
 Attached FileShitty phone picture because I don't feel like getting the good camera out, but it turned out great. Had more 'boogers' than the PLA so clean up took a little longer, only a few fine hairs, and the rollmarks are noticeably cleaner compared to the PLA but not a massive difference. I only ran this PLA+ 10c hotter than my hatchbox PLA because anything more and it was stringing/boogering worse. I'm not sure what it is about my e3p but it seems like I have to run my temp lower for any filament compared to other users/printers. Will do the rest of the parts for this lower in esun pla+ black, I think it will look cooler than doing them in pink. Next build is already planned out. I'm going to print every part of the rifle that's safe to print, each part a different color, then whip up a rail mount to install one of those clown horns to the underside of the handguard. It's going to be hideous and stupid, and will probably end up being my favorite rifle. |
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Posted: 12/27/2020 10:12:50 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted: So I just printed the main receiver with a 0.8mm nozzle and 0.4mm layer depth. Printed super fast, is super strong, and I'll print the rest with a 0.4mm nozzle and 0.2mm layer height. I think all that needs to happen with the receiver is chasing the holes with a drill bit. I also need to get some of the goobers and stringing to go away; it's been better of late with some adjustments to temperature and retraction, but... https://i.imgur.com/yA9SqLS.jpg https://i.imgur.com/LdAQwml.jpg If you're aiming for faster print time, personally I'd just go with recommended settings and just do tests to increase your print speed/acceleration settings in your slicer until you find a good balance between speed and quality on your printer and this will benefit all your prints. If you're set on the 0.8 nozzle and 0.4 layer height, and it meets or exceeds the strength of a lower printed at the normal specs, then lower temp and/or adjust retraction to reduce blemishes(the strings and boogers). If the rollmarks are messed up just load the hellfire stl in cad to remove them because I don't think you're going to be able to clean those up at all via settings due to the big nozzle and layer height, there was just a video pinned in the fosscad subreddit on how to do this. |
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Posted: 12/28/2020 12:19:36 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Had to order a filament heater/dryer to dehumidify my hatchbox gray PLA so I could print all the parts to complete the lower. Turned out pretty good. Settings on this one were 0.4 nozzle, 0.2 layer height, 50mm/s speed, 6 wall line count, and 195c/60c. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/148395/Hellfire__png-1749457.JPG Ran some test prints and calibrations earlier for this new roll of pink esun pla+ I had. Settled at 205/60c, same 0.4 nozzle, dropped speed to 40mm/s, and dropped layer height to 0.16 to see if the detail gets any better. I started at 215c and z-hop enabled but I was getting a lot of strings and boogers, so dropped temp and disabled z-hop and restarted the print(was <10 layers in so not too much wasted filament). I'm currently about 5 layers in on the redo and it looks good so far. This filament was brand new, unsealed this morning, but still baked it in my heater/dryer for a few hours during the tests/calibrations just in case. For my Esun PLA+ black I've been printing at 215c bed 60c. I ran a retraction test and settled on 6mm. Haven't tried an AR lower yet though. I recommend this guy's settings for supports though. I get good layers where supports are and the supports are easy to break off. https://3dprintgeneral.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/Cura-Settings.jpg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7TsJOvxQk-c&list=FLEQSL3AIHe41pw60eAHmhmA&index=7&ab_channel=The3DPrintGeneral |
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Posted: 12/28/2020 12:36:00 PM EDT
[#38]
I'm running a direct drive extruder so my retraction settings are 1.5mm distance, 40mm/s speed, z-hop enabled. I've done all sorts of string/temp tower tests and adjusting my retraction settings never helped. The only thing that ever reduced stringing was reducing my temps. 195c on Hatchbox PLA, 200-205c on eSun PLA+ is where I settled.
I just printed that poly black panther with a brand new/just unsealed spool of prusament galaxy black and it had awful stringing/boogers at 195c. I'm betting if I dropped the temp to 185-190c it'll probably come out damn near perfect. Seems like my printer just doesn't want to print at recommend temps. Maybe my temp reading is off and I'm printing hotter than what the printer says? |
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Posted: 12/28/2020 1:31:31 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Maybe my temp reading is off and I'm printing hotter than what the printer says? That's likely to happen. Thermistors are something like + or - 3% in their temp reading. Just make sure it's inserted all the way into the heat block and that the wires aren't pinched. |
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Posted: 12/28/2020 3:55:39 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Printing with an 0.8 nozzle at 0.4 layer height means less lines/shorter print but less detail and blemishes are going to be more noticeable. The first picture is a bit too blurry when zoomed in to tell, but it looks like your rollmarks took a hit in quality and if the magwell is any indication you're going to be spending a lot of time doing post-print cleanup on that lower which takes away from the time you saved printing it. Can't speak to the overall strength or structural integrity when comparing 0.2 to 0.4 layer heights, no idea there. If you're aiming for faster print time, personally I'd just go with recommended settings and just do tests to increase your print speed/acceleration settings in your slicer until you find a good balance between speed and quality on your printer and this will benefit all your prints. If you're set on the 0.8 nozzle and 0.4 layer height, and it meets or exceeds the strength of a lower printed at the normal specs, then lower temp and/or adjust retraction to reduce blemishes(the strings and boogers). If the rollmarks are messed up just load the hellfire stl in cad to remove them because I don't think you're going to be able to clean those up at all via settings due to the big nozzle and layer height, there was just a video pinned in the fosscad subreddit on how to do this. This was more an experiment to see what would be needed to make it work with a 0.8 nozzle. I typically use a .8 nozzle if I need strong parts - 2.4 mm walls, 10% infill at the right speed and temp prints PLA(+) parts as strong as bricks - it's not about speed, it's about strength, which is why most of the engineering-grade machines take the 2.85mm filament and start out at 0.8mm nozzles. It turns out my E3Pro also does okay with that, although it's a little disconcerting to see your filament come off the spool that fast. When converting something designed for 0.4mm nozzles to 0.8 I generally rework the mesh to make the holes slightly smaller (they're now centering holes), and I might wipe the text. The post-print clean-up wasn't as bad as I expected; a couple of minutes with the rasp and some sandpaper had an aluminum mag dropping freely. I haven't chased the holes yet, things threaded suffer the most when printed 0.8mm nozzle and 0.4mm layers. I think the sides where the pistol grip bolts up will also need to be flattened. The smaller parts I'll most definitely print with a 0.4mm nozzle at 0.2 layer height. |
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Posted: 12/29/2020 1:43:00 AM EDT
[#41]
Have you had trouble getting the big main (buffer) bolt to print? A few of us at reddit fosscad are experiencing unsticking of the threads on the first layer.
https://www.reddit.com/r/fosscad/comments/klrzdn/comment/ghb0z3b |
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Posted: 12/29/2020 8:47:23 AM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Have you had trouble getting the big main (buffer) bolt to print? A few of us at reddit fosscad are experiencing unsticking of the threads on the first layer. https://www.reddit.com/r/fosscad/comments/klrzdn/comment/ghb0z3b |
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Posted: 12/29/2020 10:18:18 AM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Didn't have this issue on the first/only set of hellfire parts I printed. I'm running the creality glass bed that I keep clean between prints and spray with regular aquanet before prints, and a BLTouch ABL. Thanks for two clear tips. I can try those. I've been a "no clean" guy so far. |
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Posted: 12/29/2020 2:50:30 PM EDT
[#44]
I have esun pla+, and wish me luck as the first couple of layers are down without a hitch so it is a long slog from here. but thinking forward a bit, has anyone tried this with PETG? maybe a n00b question, but I am reading it has better overall strength, and given that my PLA bed support snapped the moment I put it on, I am concerned this PLA+ may not be that much better.
eta : ender glass bed and glue stick applied, in case that helps anyone. 212 deg / 60 bed. coming out nice and smooth no boogers or strings. |
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Posted: 12/29/2020 5:05:02 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I have esun pla+, and wish me luck as the first couple of layers are down without a hitch so it is a long slog from here. but thinking forward a bit, has anyone tried this with PETG? maybe a n00b question, but I am reading it has better overall strength, and given that my PLA bed support snapped the moment I put it on, I am concerned this PLA+ may not be that much better. eta : ender glass bed and glue stick applied, in case that helps anyone. 212 deg / 60 bed. coming out nice and smooth no boogers or strings. I've seen petg distort and holes egg out causing fcg misalignment and other bad things (on non-ar platforms). Esun pla+ is good stuff. I print at 230 / 60. It will get bendy when it warms up though. |
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Posted: 12/29/2020 10:10:26 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I've seen petg distort and holes egg out causing fcg misalignment and other bad things (on non-ar platforms). Esun pla+ is good stuff. I print at 230 / 60. It will get bendy when it warms up though. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I have esun pla+, and wish me luck as the first couple of layers are down without a hitch so it is a long slog from here. but thinking forward a bit, has anyone tried this with PETG? maybe a n00b question, but I am reading it has better overall strength, and given that my PLA bed support snapped the moment I put it on, I am concerned this PLA+ may not be that much better. eta : ender glass bed and glue stick applied, in case that helps anyone. 212 deg / 60 bed. coming out nice and smooth no boogers or strings. I've seen petg distort and holes egg out causing fcg misalignment and other bad things (on non-ar platforms). Esun pla+ is good stuff. I print at 230 / 60. It will get bendy when it warms up though. got it.. that explains much.. first two attempts failed fairly quickly as the small scaffolding got pulled off the bed. i gave up and added a raft and things are much better now. |
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Posted: 12/30/2020 11:47:52 AM EDT
[#47]
Is there an advantage with the Wildfire / Hellfire as compared to the PrintYour2AR-15 with steel reinforcements (front trunnion and buffer tower braces)?
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Posted: 12/30/2020 9:29:39 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Is there an advantage with the Wildfire / Hellfire as compared to the PrintYour2AR-15 with steel reinforcements (front trunnion and buffer tower braces)? The wildfire is designed to be 100% PLA printable and use only stock lower parts in addition. There are a number of designs out there that require additional bolts or custom parts. Btw, not appreciating content from the Facebook content distribution network. They don't need to know everyone who looked at this forum page. |
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Posted: 1/1/2021 1:44:56 AM EDT
[#49]
Anyone fool with Cura to see if using the "no supports" STL with tree supports in Cura prints faster than their STL with built-in supports?
ETA: I got the following estimates with my current profile. Using their "no supports" STL with tree supports in Cura - 13:47 to print. With their STL with supports - 12:19. Looks like their way saves a little bit of time. But the tree supports leave a much nicer finish according to the videos I've watched (Chep). Probably not going to print this until I get some PLA+, or if I can get set up to do consistent high quality printing in fiber reinforced nylon. I know nylon flexes a good bit, but as long as the buffer tube is aligned good enough to let the buffer and BCG in, it should work. I am curious why they don't recommend nylon. Is it for materials science reasons or is it because most people aren't set up for nylon? Looking at the front hinge pin holes, that looks like something you could make out of 1/4" thick aluminum plates with a drill press and a file in about the same amount of time it would take you to print them with 100% infill (but a lot more elbow grease). Also, a drop-in trigger would be much better than a stock AR trigger group since it will help keep the FCG dimensions correct and will only use the holes for positioning in the lower and not for actual pivoting. |
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Posted: 1/1/2021 3:47:55 AM EDT
[#50]
This is designed to be printed with no supports in the slicer. The model itself has supports in the needed areas.
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