[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Getting into Reloading (Page 1 of 3)
Posted: 9/6/2015 2:05:43 PM EDT
|
Hey guys, I've been doing a bunch of research on reloading in the reloading forum, but I had a few more questions that I hope GD can answer before I take the plunge on a set up. First off I'm trying to take advantage of Cabela's sale. I was looking at the Hornady Lock and Load classic kit, which is a single stage kit that comes with a bunch of accessories and a reloading manual. Is this a good kit for the price($279 then additional 10% discount and free shipping)? Aside from dies, shell holders, and calipers, is there anything you would recommend/need equipment wise for a newbie?
How do I clean brass without a tumbler? Soap and water with a dry? I'm starting with 38 special do I need to worry about trimming cases? If I do what is a cheap solution? I know powders are not interchangeable and shouldn't be substituted without referencing the data, but can I interchange other components like primers (same size of course) and bullets (same weight different style)? I live in an apartment, Is it a mistake to even try? I wont be able to have a bench, but can I make a small bench set up that stays portable and is study enough to do work? Thanks for any help you guys can offer, I know theres a lot here haha. I don't wanna do this without having a solid understanding beforehand. Thanks again! |
|
http://www.ar15.com/forums/f_6/42_Reloading.html
Good info to start with. |
Price looks decent, and those "kits" are the way to go. For apartment use and handgun ammo, I use one of the hand-held Lyman presses:
Don't even try rifle ammo with that; I cracked the frame on one. 
Unless you are running screaming .38 Special +P+ loads, you should NEVER need to trim your brass. 
|
|
Quoted:
You will also need a good scale I use an ultrasonic cleaner for brass. You dont have to use a tumbler. Quoted:
You will also need a good scale I use an ultrasonic cleaner for brass. You dont have to use a tumbler. Kit comes with it: Kit Includes: Lock-N-Load Classic Single Stage Press, Lock-N-Load Powder Measure, Digital Scale http://www.midwayusa.com/product/749997/hornady-lock-n-load-classic-single-stage-press-kit?cm_vc=ProductFinding And you really don't need a cleaner at all. It's mostly cosmetic; just make sure the spent shells don't have any grit in them that will chew up guns & reloading dies. Went for years w/o a tumbler, rounds worked just fine. |
|
I don't really care for any of the kits. Each one has pluses and minuses.
Here's one I did for the reloading forum, it's actually the second part. Read the first link then this one. I usually write specifically for newer reloaders, small spaces like apartments, some equipment and so on. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/408347_A_second_run_at_my_style__this_time_bottle_necks__written_mainly_for_newer_reloaders_.html Here's another on a mini bench. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/429935_Somnio__A_super_mini_.html |
I use a HUSKY rolling tool cart, basically this:
but with a butcher block wood top that they also sell for it. 
I got both on sale @ HomeDepot....think I paid about $140 with the butcher block top. I drilled and bolted the press through the butcher block and the metal top of the cart, and then with the top drawer removed, tighten nuts with washers and then replace top drawer. The drawers below are great for storing all my reloading dies, tools, accessories, and boxes of bullets for ballast keeps it weighed down so it doesn't move much. I now have 3 presses (a Dillon XL650 progressive, a Rock Chucker single stage, and an Arbor Press) mounted on top and it's been working out great. It's on wheels so you can move it where / when you need to. If you need extra stability you can always eye-bolt into a wall stud and then ratchet strap the chest to the wall....I didn't find this necessary. |
| The hornady kit looks pretty nice. It has a rebate for 500 free bullets too. I have the powder measure and I really like it. You might need to pick up the pistol drum if its not included. Its a powder measure drum for measuring smaller charges. You will need it to accurately measure some powder at lower charges. 38 special is very straight forward to load. Lee dies will work just fine and they are cheap. I don't tumble my cases or trim pistol cases, no need. |
|
Ok awesome sounds like I'm sorta headed in the right direction. I need to figure out the bench situation for sure. I'm getting Hornady dies and shell holders so hopefully everything is compatible. Both the dies and the kit come with the bullet rebate so hopefully I can save some cost. I'm gonna need some primers and powder. I'm thinking either bullseye or unique as these seem to be the standard for the target loads. I'm sure this will save me oh so much money! Just like my fly tying kit!
|
|
The ABCs Of Reloading by C. Rodney James
It is an OUTSTANDING book. I still use it for reference now and again, and I first read it over ten years ago. "The Definitive Guide for Novice to Expert", and they're not kidding. I highly recommend it to anyone who handloads. (I'm not affiliated with the author or publisher in any way, I'm not trying to hustle anyone's product. It's just one of the best sources of reloading information in print) |
|
Quoted:
Ok awesome sounds like I'm sorta headed in the right direction. I need to figure out the bench situation for sure. I'm getting Hornady dies and shell holders so hopefully everything is compatible. Both the dies and the kit come with the bullet rebate so hopefully I can save some cost. I'm gonna need some primers and powder. I'm thinking either bullseye or unique as these seem to be the standard for the target loads. I'm sure this will save me oh so much money! Just like my fly tying kit! Why don't you go over to the reloading section in the armory forums. There's a bunch of FAQ's at the top that will answer EVERY question you have. There's a reason it's called the RELOADING FORUM, go figure. There's actually a lot of informative discussions spread over ARFCOM. Of course you'd get better answers from GD where tranny's and lesbian dating is more the norm. 
|
|
Quoted:
The ABCs Of Reloading by C. Rodney James It is an OUTSTANDING book. I still use it for reference now and again, and I first read it over ten years ago. "The Definitive Guide for Novice to Expert", and they're not kidding. I highly recommend it to anyone who handloads. (I'm not affiliated with the author or publisher in any way, I'm not trying to hustle anyone's product. It's just one of the best sources of reloading information in print) I recommend that book to all new reloaders. I prefer the read it so the get a good understanding before I help them. Reloading is not something you want to be lazy with. I read abcs, hornady, and Lyman's manuals before I started. |
|
Quoted:
Price looks decent, and those "kits" are the way to go. For apartment use and handgun ammo, I use one of the hand-held Lyman presses: http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/ODEwWDE0NDA=/z/Ta0AAOSwu4BVnC7T/$_35.JPG Don't even try rifle ammo with that; I cracked the frame on one.
Unless you are running screaming .38 Special +P+ loads, you should NEVER need to trim your brass. I would think neck sizing rifle ammo should be no problem. I use such a hand press to load my 7.62x39 for my Cz527M ( neck sized, not full sized ) |
|
Quoted:
The ABCs Of Reloading by C. Rodney James It is an OUTSTANDING book. I still use it for reference now and again, and I first read it over ten years ago. "The Definitive Guide for Novice to Expert", and they're not kidding. I highly recommend it to anyone who handloads. (I'm not affiliated with the author or publisher in any way, I'm not trying to hustle anyone's product. It's just one of the best sources of reloading information in print) I agree, get this book first. Once you find components you like, buy them in bulk online to save on Hazmat and shipping fees. Now is the time to check your stockpiles, Winter is coming. |
|
If I was just loading pistol ammo I would get a Dillon Square Deal B. Loading anything but precision rifle on a single stage sucks.
http://m.dillonprecision.com/mcontent/p/9/pid/25237/catid/1/Dillon_Square_Deal___039_B__039_ Comes with everything you need to get started except components and a scale. |
|
Quoted: If I was just loading pistol ammo I would get a Dillon Square Deal B. Loading anything but precision rifle on a single stage sucks. http://m.dillonprecision.com/mcontent/p/9/pid/25237/catid/1/Dillon_Square_Deal___039_B__039_ Comes with everything you need to get started except components and a scale. I use a single stage to process rifle brass but never reload with it. Reload with a 550B |
|
Welcome to the hobby, where being OCD is a good thing. 
You will eventually need a case trimmer if you start reloading for rifle, but you can skip it right now. When it comes to substituting components like primers, etc., remember the Reloaders Mantra...Start Low and Work Up. I would advise purchasing a chronograph of some sort. Without it, you're pretty much working blind, especially with low pressure rounds like the .38 Special. It's possible to get by without one, I did for years before Mr. Oehler got some of my hard-earned cash, but a chrono makes a reloaders life much easier. I've reloaded while living in an apartment, it's awkward but can be done...I just don't advise storing a whole bunch of powders there. Also, spilling a tray of primers on a deep pile carpet is bad, mmkay? The SO will find them with the vacuum, and will NOT be happy about finding the ones you missed. 
|
|
I would recommend you get a hand press to start out with due to your space limitation.
I use a hand press for loading while at the range working up new load and everything i need fits in a back pack. You can re-size rifle cases with a hand press just lube the cases good and watch your fingers 
The hand press will be a tool you use for years even when you move up to a new press you will find it has its use. Get a good reloading book 1st and read the hell out of it. Lee hand press kit $49.99 Hornady GS-1500 Electronic Powder Scale $26.49 im not a fan of it but it works. Picks a case trimming tool in your price range. from $8 to $300 hand trimmers suck if your doing over 50 rounds at a time but they are cheap and will work. Decide if you want a brass tumbler or ultrasonic case cleaner i prefer tubing so i don't have to dry cases after but its slow 4 to 6 hrs and its would irritate your neighbors . Die set in your caber, i prefer lee never had a problem with them and they are cheap. for pistol dies get carbon so you don't have to lube the cases. the last thing you want is primers, powder and bullets. after you decide on the load you want to work on. lee makes a great starter kit's for under $200 with everything but a die set to get you started but you will replace the scale first thing. I personally use a mix of Dillon, hornady and lee stuff all of it works great. start with a single stage press then later on move to a turret or progressive press. |
|
another vote for the workmate and the ABC's book. I prefer RCBS, but in the end dont listen to anyone tell you one brand is the "best". Lee is just fine, as you progress in reloading you will find the equipment you like the best.
Speed BTW, welcome to the club, you will be forever cash poor and ammo rich with all your savings! |
|
How do I clean brass without a tumbler? Soap and water with a dry?
You could just wash the brass in soap and warm to hot water, add a bit of Lemi Shine to the water to get a bit of shine. Brass doesn't have to glint in the sun to be clean enough. In fact, I started with .38 Specials and just used a carbide sizer die. The grit didn't bother it. Actually, for the most part I didn't bother to clean the brass other than a quick wipe with an old cloth. Air dry after the wash or placed on a cookie sheet at a very low temp (say below 200 degrees). There is a danger that too high of a heat will anneal the brass. I'm starting with 38 special do I need to worry about trimming cases? If I do what is a cheap solution? I never did. .38 Special doesn't grow all that much. But, if you like to trim brass, go ahead. It's helpful when setting your crimp position. Anyway, Lee makes a very cheap trimmer. http://leeprecision.com/case-conditioning-tools/ I know powders are not interchangeable and shouldn't be substituted without referencing the data, but can I interchange other components like primers (same size of course) and bullets (same weight different style)? The books and re-loading experts will say that you shouldn't interchange components. The data is very specific. http://www.frfrogspad.com/miscelld.htm#components But in reality.......well, take your risk level into consideration. And, remember to always start low and work your way up. I live in an apartment, Is it a mistake to even try? I wont be able to have a bench, but can I make a small bench set up that stays portable and is study enough to do work? See the other posts for pictures. Aloha, Mark |
|
Quoted: You have not done much research in the reloading forum, every question you have had been answered multiple times. True, and not to discourage him, while Dryflash and AeroE run a very tight ship in their forum, it is very newb friendly. And for a reason. As has been said, many, many good people in that forum.  EDIT: Aw geez. just noticed who I quoted. Who told you to change your avatar |
|
If you ever get a vibratory tumbler, "Lizard Litter" from the big pet stores is 100% walnut shell ground up for a fraction the post. Add a half cap of nu finish car polish per batch and your brass will be shinier than factory.
I use a cleaning bucket, dollar store colander and a cheap child's sand toy to sift the media out of the brass. |
|
Quoted: Hey guys, I've been doing a bunch of research on reloading in the reloading forum, but I had a few more questions that I hope GD can answer before I take the plunge on a set up. First off I'm trying to take advantage of Cabela's sale. I was looking at the Hornady Lock and Load classic kit, which is a single stage kit that comes with a bunch of accessories and a reloading manual. Is this a good kit for the price($279 then additional 10% discount and free shipping)? Aside from dies, shell holders, and calipers, is there anything you would recommend/need equipment wise for a newbie? How do I clean brass without a tumbler? Soap and water with a dry? You don't. Get a tumbler. I'm starting with 38 special do I need to worry about trimming cases? If I do what is a cheap solution? I'm not for sure on handgun rounds, rifle rounds the cases need to be trimmed every time. I know powders are not interchangeable and shouldn't be substituted without referencing the data, but can I interchange other components like primers (same size of course) and bullets (same weight different style)? Yes, but everytime you interchange a components you need to restart low and work back up. Unless you don't like your hands or face. I live in an apartment, Is it a mistake to even try? I wont be able to have a bench, but can I make a small bench set up that stays portable and is study enough to do work? There are several schematics out there for portable reload benches. Do some googling and you will find them. Thanks for any help you guys can offer, I know theres a lot here haha. I don't wanna do this without having a solid understanding beforehand. Thanks again! My answers in red. And start here: http://www.amazon.com/The-ABCs-Of-Reloading-Definitive/dp/1440213968 |
|
Quoted:
Ok awesome sounds like I'm sorta headed in the right direction. I need to figure out the bench situation for sure. I'm getting Hornady dies and shell holders so hopefully everything is compatible. Both the dies and the kit come with the bullet rebate so hopefully I can save some cost. I'm gonna need some primers and powder. I'm thinking either bullseye or unique as these seem to be the standard for the target loads. I'm sure this will save me oh so much money! Just like my fly tying kit! You can also use a cheap harbor freight bench grinder stand. Set a box of bullets on the shelf and bolt your press on the top. |
| OK sounds like I need to get in the reloading forum and keep going. Is there some merit to the idea of starting really slow with a hand press and just keep it to a small operation? I know theres info in the other forum, but I like to ask GD as there is typically more traffic. Thanks for all the helpful responses. |
|
OP this bench is now in its 4th apartment.
http://www.harborfreight.com/60-in-4-drawer-hardwood-workbench-69054.html I use the Lee quick change plate and bolts with wingnuts so my presses are removable. I don't want to advertise that I handload in case maintenance visits. |
" />
|
Quoted:
The table that I made for my loading set up. http://<a href=http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx328/Beauacadian/Table%20done..jpg</a>" /> Lock N Load. I made a base for the loader that put it about 6" higher than the tabletop. http://<a href=http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx328/Beauacadian/red%20mount%205.jpg</a>" /> Foot activated case trimmer rig. http://<a href=http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx328/Beauacadian/trim3.jpg</a>" /> Love the trimmer! any plan to put up drawings? |
|
Quoted:
Love the trimmer! any plan to put up drawings? Quoted:
Quoted:
/> Love the trimmer! any plan to put up drawings? Just give the picture a good looking over and you can do it easy. Heck, make some improvements on it and tell me about them! I'm looking for a dedicated motor for the trimmer so that I wont wear out my case prep motor. Thinking maybe a can opener motor will be strong enough. What do you think? |
|
Quoted:
Just give the picture a good looking over and you can do it easy. Heck, make some improvements on it and tell me about them! I'm looking for a dedicated motor for the trimmer so that I wont wear out my case prep motor. Thinking maybe a can opener motor will be strong enough. What do you think? Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
/> Love the trimmer! any plan to put up drawings? Just give the picture a good looking over and you can do it easy. Heck, make some improvements on it and tell me about them! I'm looking for a dedicated motor for the trimmer so that I wont wear out my case prep motor. Thinking maybe a can opener motor will be strong enough. What do you think? Let me do some thinking.. |
|
Quoted:
be sure to get into reloading only if you want to learn the skill or do it as a hobby. reloading isn't worth the time it takes if the reason is to save money. unless someone is retired or fsa. That's not true. I save a ton of money loading 9mm on my Dillon 650. It has paid for itself just in 9mm reloading. |
|
Quoted:
The table that I made for my loading set up. http://<a href=http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx328/Beauacadian/Table%20done..jpg</a>" /> Lock N Load. I made a base for the loader that put it about 6" higher than the tabletop. http://<a href=http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx328/Beauacadian/red%20mount%205.jpg</a>" /> Foot activated case trimmer rig. http://<a href=http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx328/Beauacadian/trim3.jpg</a>" /> I hate you.
Love that fucking loader base, that thing looks store-bought.  Wish I could fabricate as well as that. 
|
|
Quoted:
OK sounds like I need to get in the reloading forum and keep going. Is there some merit to the idea of starting really slow with a hand press and just keep it to a small operation? I know theres info in the other forum, but I like to ask GD as there is typically more traffic. Thanks for all the helpful responses. That is absolutely a great way to do it. Even if/when you graduate to a progressive or turret press later, that single stage will still come in handy for other stuff like bullet resizing or whatever. |
|
Quoted:
That's not true. I save a ton of money loading 9mm on my Dillon 650. It has paid for itself just in 9mm reloading. Quoted:
Quoted:
be sure to get into reloading only if you want to learn the skill or do it as a hobby. reloading isn't worth the time it takes if the reason is to save money. unless someone is retired or fsa. That's not true. I save a ton of money loading 9mm on my Dillon 650. It has paid for itself just in 9mm reloading. What I'm saying is don't get into reloading only to save money. |
|
Quoted: As many problems as I run into with my single stage setup, I would get frustrated as heck if it was a automatic progressive like a Dillon or other AP. I started on a progressive with zero knowledge and soley relying on guys from this site and THR for help. Its been pretty smooth after 1000s upon 1000s of pistol and maybe 1000 rifle rounds with no issues to date. Its not exactly rocket surgery. Load single rounds to get everything in order then rock'n'roll while checking every so often. YMMV. I can absolutely see where the "start off on a single stage, and move up" is good advice, especially to random strangers, but its hardly a rule. Just be in control at all times. |
|
Quoted:
be sure to get into reloading only if you want to learn the skill or do it as a hobby. reloading isn't worth the time it takes if the reason is to save money. unless someone is retired or fsa. Mostly true, but I have saved a bunch of cash by reloading for my .416 Rigby... |
|
Quoted:
Mostly true, but I have saved a bunch of cash by reloading for my .416 Rigby... Quoted:
Quoted:
be sure to get into reloading only if you want to learn the skill or do it as a hobby. reloading isn't worth the time it takes if the reason is to save money. unless someone is retired or fsa. Mostly true, but I have saved a bunch of cash by reloading for my .416 Rigby... And 300 blackout. 
|
|
Quoted:
What I'm saying is don't get into reloading only to save money. Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
be sure to get into reloading only if you want to learn the skill or do it as a hobby. reloading isn't worth the time it takes if the reason is to save money. unless someone is retired or fsa. That's not true. I save a ton of money loading 9mm on my Dillon 650. It has paid for itself just in 9mm reloading. What I'm saying is don't get into reloading only to save money. It does take awhile to make your money back. But if you shoot a lot it's the way to go. And you get the benefit of tuned consistent loads. |