this is apparently such an interesting topic that the Canuck Government wrote a paper on it:

http://www.omafra.gov.on.ca/english/engineer/facts/00-059.htm

ar-jedi

Even more interesting is this one:

http://www.omafra.gov.on.ca/english/engineer/facts/99-007.htm

I've never seen Anderson Power Pole connectors used for AC loads before, only DC like lift trucks and similar. Being a non-sexed connector, they don't provide much in the way of protection from accidental contact with the contacts. Of course the cam-lock type high current connectors commonly used in the US for high current generator connections are similarly minimally protected. I do think the US cam-lock arrangment with color coded connectors avoids the contact arrangment issues with those power poles. Kinda difficult to mess up green to green, white to white, red to red, etc. regardless of the arrangment on the panels.

We use the big PowerPoles at the office on the external battery cabinets of our medium-sized UPS power arrays (the large arrays are hard wired). One nice thing about using them is that they can't be connected backwards. Another nice thing is color coding them for voltage. In our data centers 48v cabinets have gray connectors, and 96v cabinets are red for example.

I mandated the color coding years ago after a junior tech tried to plug a 96v cabinet into a 48v array. No idea what would have happened if he had succeeded, but it probably would have been spectacular and expensive. We have also since shortened the feeders, so that can no longer happen. I also have a color-coded chart on the wall that spells out what goes with what-from small 12v and 48v standalone rackmounts all the way up to the big iron. My techs call it the Garanimals chart

On another note, this same tech hit the EPO (emergency power off) to the shunt trip breaker once, killing the 400A 3-phase feed to one of our server rooms. He said he was "curious" about what would happen, so he wanted to see. My assistant fired him on the spot after that fiasco.

Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile

i don't think Anderson PP's are a good idea for HV AC.  
the connector is certainly not IEC950 complaint as it will definitely fail the IEC finger probe test.

ar-jedi

The Cam-lock connectors used in the US wouldn't pass the finger test either. In either case the connectors are not used on "consumer" goods and essentially fall under the industrial spec of being used by qualified personnell only who should know engough not to stick their fingers in the socket. The giant banana plug like "elbow" connectors used in utility underground and pad transformer HV connections are similar.

Damn, so much useful info. Thanks for putting all this together, AR-J.

i keep thinking of things...

–– after a few days of no utility power all of the CO (carbon monoxide) detectors in the house were chirping due to low battery.  now then, in my case my generators are about 50' from the house so i didn't have a whole lot of reason to put fresh batteries in the CO detectors (which would have lasted another 3-5 days).  however, in different circumstances i think this might be a good idea –– about $3 for a 9V battery which could save you and your family's lives.

–– the inputs to my video security system depends on too many distributed wall-warts and not enough PoE (which the "P" in Power-over-Ethernet comes from a fixed, central location), and the outputs depend on locations which may not have power.  i have to work on this and look at a more systemic approach to no-utility-power operation.

–– "emergency" exterior flood lighting around where the generator is would prove useful.  an inexpensive 12V LED landscape flood lamp, a modest sized gel-cell battery, and an inline switch might do the trick.  

ar-jedi

Most of the video security system DVRs run directly on 12VDC, and so do the cameras. I have a 4-channel system that has everything (including the LCD monitor) powered from a battery bank. Using a small monitor with LED backlighting reduces the current consumption somewhat (2.2 amps for the whole system at night, or 1.3 amps during the daytime).



A small solar system (maybe a 100 watt panel, a couple of AGM trolling motor batteries and a charge controller) could probably keep both of these items running, in addition to your home security system. Naturally, you could also run a few LED indoor lights and some ham gear from it.

i have some Axis IP cameras and they have local wall-warts.  need to convert some of them.

ar-jedi

i thought up yet another thing...  

USE COMMON SENSE!!!

below, see those three wires strung at the topmost position on the poles?  

those wires are carrying 7.2KV (7200 Vac) with enough current capacity to light up an entire residential neighborhood.  
now then, what do you think that's going to do to your SUV if there is incidental contact?

ar-jedi

Sandy aftermath: Woman Electrocuted By Live Power Line

What a horrible way to go.

Actually if you had incidental contact in your SUV you would be fine with your rubber tires insulating you.  But don't ever get out of a vehicle with a powerline laying on it.  Chances are that line is live though unless it is on the ground somewhere else.  

 

Siamese wire for the win. Other than a few outbuildings where we ran coax underground, everything comes back to the DVR for power and UPS.

While I was up there I came arpund a blind corner and there was a power line hanging about 4 feet abouve the ground.....couldn't get stopped till it was laying on my hood, im assuming it was dead but I about wet my pants.....

The only thing I can add to this informative AAR, is that if you are going to operate a chainsaw for more than a casual 5 minutes of operation. I highly reccomend you have a pair of chainsaw safety chaps.

I worked in the timber industry for a decade and knew about 7 guys killed in the industry. If you don't know what you are doing, your chances of seriously injuring yourself increase exponentially.

They are available from Amazon for a fair price, especially considering the alternative.

I really like my Labonville full wrap chaps.

http://www.labonville.com/Chainsaw-Safety-Chaps-W850KP2X-_p_34.html

I got cut working tornado recovery by a chainsaw. Chaps now are part of my storm gear.

Great write up! enjoyed it and good job on all the prior preperation.

So if I wanted to wire up something like this I would do it as shown in the wiring diagram below?

Look into a Bialetti Moka Express pot. Works great on small gas stoves or electric (just not induction since it's made from aluminum), and generates coffee that is quite similar to espresso in under 5 minutes on a heat source.
~20$ will get you a 3-cup unit that brews ~6oz of very strong coffee per brew. ~45$ for a 12 cup model.  It's not the purists idea of espresso, but it IS a pressurized brew method so it's close and easily repeatable - I love espresso, roast my own beans, etc. - and I brew more coffee from my moka pots than I do from my waayyyyyy more expensive espresso machine ;)

They make from 1-cup(shot) all the way up to 12 (~24oz).

it's actually more simple than that, but that is the basic idea.

in the 2 wire + ground cordset (and in the cordset ONLY) which goes from the single phase generator (i.e., only 120Vac -- such as a Honda EU2000i) to the 3 wire + ground split phase generator inlet receptacle (such the the Reliance PB50 shown earlier in this thread), simply put a bridge wire between X and Y (L1 and L2) when you wire up the generator "plug" on the end of the cordset.   i put "plug" in quotes there because it is actually a female receptacle, not male prongs, on the end of a proper generator interconnect cordset.  the PB50 has the male prongs.

so, you need a short (approximately 1 or 2 inch) jumper AT the 3 wire + ground end of the cordset.  and ONLY there.  do not implement this bridge phasing anywhere else unless you are fond of excitement and have a fire extinguisher handy.  

hope that helps.

see also the info in this EXCELLENT THREAD as well:

pt 1: explanation.
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_17/644329__ARCHIVED_THREAD____DIY_Generator_Power_Cables_and_Install.html&page=8#i11046514

and

pt 2: EXCELLENT COLOR PICTURES
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_17/644329__ARCHIVED_THREAD____DIY_Generator_Power_Cables_and_Install.html&page=9#i11070418  

and finally

pt 3: warning label
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_17/644329__ARCHIVED_THREAD____DIY_Generator_Power_Cables_and_Install.html&page=9#i11092568  

I refused to wear my chaps until my SO bought me... -THESE!

TAG



Thanks, OP.


 

Thank you for pointing me to that thread, I hadn't seen it since he laid the conduit and didn't realize the other valuable information.

i thought of a couple more things to document here:

1) GO TO THE ATM BEFORE THE STORM.  i know this is obvious but when there is no power county-wide for ~2 weeks and most of the people who work in the bank aren't even coming to work because they have their own problems at home, you may find it difficult to get CASH.

2) CASH goes a long way to getting service folks to, well, service you.  arborists (tree guys), pumpers, plumbers, electricians, carpenters, etc all speak CASH.

3) CASH works really well at gas stations with a backup generator powering the pumps, and no working credit card authorization system.

ps
did i mention CASH is good to have?

for the record i always have some SHTF cash at home, but i took out a couple hundred more before Sandy "just in case".

ar-jedi

if you throw $500 in the gun safe at the beginning of hurricane season, and it is not needed, it becomes the property of the gun safe and can be exchanged for a new blaster...

I have 2 EU2000's and would like to make an adapter to go from the L14-30 generator inlets I have on some of my houses to plug into the genset.  Please correct me if I am wrong my plan is to get some 12-3 SO cord and connect a 5-15p plug with one hot jumped to the other at the L14-30 connector.  

I also would like to make one to connect them from the parallel cable I have to the L14-30 as well.  Is there anything special that changes with them paralleled?  I know I can look it up but does anyone know which is the correct plug for the parallel cable?

Grove

ETA-Jedi, Do you have the companion model?

two "generic" EU2000i's? two "generic" and the older pairing kit?   one "generic" and one Companion model?


that should do it.  connect L1 and L2 with the same gauge wire as in the cordset.




not clear what you mean here.  by the "parallel cable" you mean the older interconnection box?

note that if you are doing this using a 30A plug at both ends, then you should use 10AWG SOOW cordage.  30A requires 10AWG.


not currently.  are you listening Santa?  

ar-jedi

What receptacle is on the front of your generator?  It looks like the twist lock on the companion model.  I have two of the regular EUs and the parallel cable kit (I'll post a pic later).

Grove

no, it's a standard NEMA 5-15R.

ar-jedi

grove,
did the cable work out?

ar-jedi

Just wanted to say thanks for posting this. It gave me some ideas that lead to solutions for my own situation. Big gen for well/water heater, small gen for essentials. I live in a sort of rural area near the Gulf Coast. Tall trees, overhead power lines, and well water can be a bad mix. I've been without power for up to two weeks a few times and it's not unusual to be without for 12 hours for no apparent reason. I have no problem using a big generator for short very local outages. For multiple days & a widespread outage, fuel becomes the issue. Prior to going big/small, I would just trade one crisis (no power) for another (burning gas looking for gas).  Thanks again.

Thanks for taking the time to post this.

I'm not nit picking, but I'd like to point out that the "there has never been water here before" thing is extremely dangerous.  

A lot of areas have not have any real detailed studies done on their recent (last few thousand years) geological history --  it's very common to find that an area that looks like the safest place in the world has been leveled several times in the last thousand years by any number of repetitive disasters.    

Even scientists get lazy and they like to see what they expect to see instead of what is actually there.

Nature is not your friend and living memory is not much more than the blink of an eye to it.

a quick 6-months-later update...

0)
i still haven't purchased an extended run external tank for my EU2000i.  really now, what are the chances that another 12 day outage could happen???  

1)
my mom is back in her house since february; new boiler, new water heater, COMPLETELY new electrical system (incl service panel and ALL branch circuit wiring -- all the 1950's era BX is gone, replaced with Romex).  i still have to re-wire up her generator interlock but this is a nice 2 hour sunny summer day project.  note, the electrician who installed her service panel had a good idea; it's now located on the first floor rather than in the basement.  IDEALLY this should prevent some problems in the future.

2)
the contractor situation in the affected areas has been a complete cluster-f.  
see http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_5/1408133__ARCHIVED_THREAD____dear_plumbers_and_other_tradespeople___make_sure_your_apprentices_actually_know_what_they_are_doing_.html

3)
if i had to do one thing differently at my mom's -- in hindsight, prior to the storm the power cords for the sump pumps (there are 2) should have extended such that i could power the sump pumps from an external generator once the basement was flooded.  it seems like such a good idea now that i think about it, but i certainly didn't think about it when i should have thought about it.   once the water receded from my mom's street, and folks were allowed to drive into the affected areas, i brought a little submersible pump and a length of garden hose.  hah.

this was like trying to stop an oncoming freight train using a .22LR -- my mom's basement was still filled right to the foundation windows (you can see the glint on the water in the first picture below) -- and it was going to take my puny little Home Depot 1/5HP pump about 3 days to drain it through a 5/8" garden hose.  for that matter, the ground was so saturated that i was thinking the water was still coming in through the foundation walls and floor as fast as i could pump it out.  

if i could only get to the sump pumps and power them -- they are big 1/3HP units with 1.5" PVC outlets and could push a lot more water per hour out into the street.  alas, there was no way to do it (safely) -- to connect up the cords i would have to swim in the filthy, diesel-coated saltwater in the basement and i wasn't really up for that.  i would probably be sick a day later, and besides there was always the possibility of drowning in my mom's basement and she'd really be pissed at me if that happened.  

my sister's neighbor, who is a contractor, had a 10HP trash pump with a 3" outlet along with the requisite suction and drain hoses, and we eventually used that to pump out my mom's basement.  it's still took a couple of hours.  once the basement was mostly-pumped, i rigged up some extension cords so the sump pumps could be powered from an external generator.  this kept the groundwater at bay for the remainder of the outage period.  

the washer, dryer, boiler, and water heater had all been under(salt)water for 4 days and were tossed.  along with a lot of stuff my mom had stored in cardboard boxes on shelves in the basement (note to parents: don't do this to your kids, please).  

4)
on yet another sunny summer day i am going to reconfigure my transfer switch arrangement a bit and make it such that i can get a bit more versatility in terms of where the power ends up.  for example: as i mentioned earlier in this thread, not having the master bath (incl lights and fan) on the generator feed was a bit of a pain.  my wife: "yo, engineer guy/master of all infrastructure -- tell me why are we showering in the dark and afterward the bathroom is full of steam?" -- some folks are just ungrateful for what they got.  

5)
the pile of debris pictured below is all of the stuff that floated onto my mom's property during the storm.  random pieces of houses, docks, fences, picnic benches etc. -- just to put some perspective on this -- in the last picture below, see the power company meter on the side of the house?   the water level during the storm was just below that.  

ar-jedi

Suggest when the rewire the furnace, you make it so an external generator can power it directly as well.

the new service panel (Square-D QO series) has an OEM interlock setup such that we can power ANY branch circuit from the generator.  this is/will be very handy.

ar-jedi

Most people don't consider a need for a trash.

As you found out they are a necessity for recovery. They can always be good during the situation to prevent flooding if the sump pump can't keep up.

Use long suction and discharge hoses >100 feet to move the water far away.

Caution..........10 HP trash pump can cause basement walls to cave in, on the outside of the wall water pressure can be very high & create a dangerous situation.
Slower pump is often better.
This can also cause a great  "inrush ?"  of water from the  surrounding area, creating under ground tunnels directly to moms basement, causing problems in the future.

This is why I only live in areas not prone to flooding!!

Good writeup.

Or start lifting and cracking the basement floor slab. If the water is at the top of the wall on the outside that is 8' to 10' of water pressure under the slab.

If you use a slower pump, you can pull down the outside water table via the drainage tile.

RR

I used to live in an apartment in an old house that had one. It had to have been from the 1930s-40s. It was a narrow one, so narrow there was no space in between the burners. Constant pilot light. If you wanted to use the oven, you had to manually light it.

I miss that stove! (I have an electric one now. Hate it).

I would think they are mostly gone by now. People tear them out and haul them to the dump, and that is the end of that. Pilot lights are now "verboten," because they are a waste of energy. My parents still have pilto light stove, and its been there for like 60 years, but it costs like $15/month to run just the pilot lights.

Very informational, thanks for posting this, and linking to it in the other thread!

bare bones tappan/ge  have no pilots..the are electric ignition. but can be lit by hand.can still be purchased around that 3-400 mark and are that standard 30 inch size..  



 

Bump.
This is a very good write up.
Thanks for sharing!!!!!