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Posted: 3/11/2016 5:21:35 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/11/2016 5:28:27 PM EDT by wildearp]
I was wondering when the Magpul setup came on the market if the magwell and mag would work with the H and S Precision Remington stocks.  The mag and magwell were recently $77 and I saw on a couple other forums that people had successfully done this.  









So I bought it and inletted it today.  I drew a circle around the area where you have to remove a significant amount of aluminum from the front bedding block. I used a coarse carbide burr in an air tool to accomplish this.  The arrows point to the area where you have to widen the stock a bit for this to fit. The area surrounding the trigger and around the front screw don't need to be touched.  I have a Timney trigger installed and it fit just fine with no alterations.






Well, it fits and feeds well.  I am taking it to the range in a few minutes.  I have M80 ball loaded in the mag.






https://www.magpul.com/products/hunter-700-stock-remington-700-short-action













My 700 LTR:











 







I think the Magpul stock is a bit ugly, but would have bought it if this didn't work out.  Sometimes ugly can grow on you.....










Providing there are no surprises at the range, I will need to get another three mags. This is a hell of a cheap way to add a mag feed that works to your Remington.  Short and long action versions are available.




 



It is 85 degrees outside and I have stew cooking in the crockpot.  
Link Posted: 3/11/2016 7:14:06 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/11/2016 7:29:28 PM EDT by gotigers]
I was talking to a friend about this today. I have a rem 5r with a HS precision stock.

Do you have pics of the inletting?

Ho does it fit around the screws? Externally how does it look from the bottom?

Does the magwell come in FDE or OD green?
Link Posted: 3/12/2016 1:54:18 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/12/2016 1:56:12 AM EDT by jim]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By gotigers:
I was talking to a friend about this today. I have a rem 5r with a HS precision stock.

Do you have pics of the inletting?

Ho does it fit around the screws? Externally how does it look from the bottom?

Does the magwell come in FDE or OD green?
View Quote


Excellent.  I opted to remove material from the MP part instead of the pillar bedding.










http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_16_3/3153_Magpul_DBM_on_a_non_Magpul_stock____I_made_it_work____.html
It's a very easy task, if you go slow and check fitment every so often.


Link Posted: 3/12/2016 11:15:22 AM EDT
It fits like factory around the screws.  It worked fine at the range with the M80 ball and with my 168gr SMK reloads.  I am pleased with it.  The mag drops free empty or full.
Link Posted: 3/12/2016 2:46:28 PM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By wildearp:
It fits like factory around the screws.  It worked fine at the range with the M80 ball and with my 168gr SMK reloads.  I am pleased with it.  The mag drops free empty or full.
View Quote



That's all that matters. IMO the task of inletting a stock (for this purpose) is so easy it seems intimidating to the novice.
Link Posted: 3/12/2016 4:58:05 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/13/2016 12:27:35 PM EDT by wildearp]


Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By jim:





Originally Posted By gotigers:


I was talking to a friend about this today. I have a rem 5r with a HS precision stock.





Do you have pics of the inletting?





Ho does it fit around the screws? Externally how does it look from the bottom?





Does the magwell come in FDE or OD green?






Excellent.  I opted to remove material from the MP part instead of the pillar bedding.





http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u129/51jim/gun%20pic%20place/100_2409_zps5baxjube.jpg





http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u129/51jim/gun%20pic%20place/100_2407_zps21kjlogv.jpg





http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u129/51jim/gun%20pic%20place/100_2416_zpsb0bc6hq6.jpg
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_16_3/3153_Magpul_DBM_on_a_non_Magpul_stock____I_made_it_work____.html


It's a very easy task, if you go slow and check fitment every so often.
Once again proving how much the arfcom search function sucks ass.  I wish I had seen your thread.  Well done!  The aluminum rib running along the length of the mag well was not very pronounced in my stock. I didn't hit it at all with the dremel.


 



I also dusted off my M1a for some off hand shooting at 100.  I watched a guy shooting his Garand at 25 from a bench rest.

I was walking it out to 200 when I realized I didn't have the proper 200Y frame on the last string of fire.  Dammit.  




My PSA .308 didn't miss a beat.  




Now I have to reload some cases..............
Link Posted: 3/24/2016 6:50:25 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/24/2016 6:53:14 PM EDT by Sapperdaddy04]
Ive been wondering about this myself. I want to try it in my Bell and Carlson stock. With it being plastic how touch is it?
Link Posted: 3/26/2016 1:24:11 PM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Sapperdaddy04:
Ive been wondering about this myself. I want to try it in my Bell and Carlson stock. With it being plastic how touch is it?
View Quote



Take your time and go for it.  It's plastic. Nothing some bondo can't fix.  Now if you do mess it up, consider picking up a take off stock and working with that.
Link Posted: 3/26/2016 11:11:10 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/26/2016 11:13:35 PM EDT by Zardoz]
I just finished fitting one into the Hogue stock on my aac-sd. I took my time, only cutting/sanding what was absolutely necessary & doing a lot of trial fitting, and it came out looking like it came from the the factory that way. I think I spent about 2.5 hours on it, start to finish.

It also greatly helped function, too. From the factory, the gun didn't feed worth a shit, the first round being nearly impossible to chamber. With the Magpul magwell & mag, feeding is super-smooth.


This thread is what gave me the idea in the first place...thanks, OP!


No pics yet.
The bottom metal & mag are drying, having just been sprayed to match the tier-000 HSLD paint job on the rest of the gun.
Link Posted: 3/27/2016 1:49:42 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/27/2016 1:50:01 PM EDT by ARhabit]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Zardoz:
I just finished fitting one into the Hogue stock on my aac-sd. I took my time, only cutting/sanding what was absolutely necessary & doing a lot of trial fitting, and it came out looking like it came from the the factory that way. I think I spent about 2.5 hours on it, start to finish.

It also greatly helped function, too. From the factory, the gun didn't feed worth a shit, the first round being nearly impossible to chamber. With the Magpul magwell & mag, feeding is super-smooth.


This thread is what gave me the idea in the first place...thanks, OP!


No pics yet.
The bottom metal & mag are drying, having just been sprayed to match the tier-000 HSLD paint job on the rest of the gun.
View Quote


Pics please. Got a hogue stock and wanting to do the same thing.
Link Posted: 3/27/2016 3:42:43 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 4/29/2016 9:19:13 AM EDT by Zardoz]
As requested, here's a couple pics:
The magazine well, itself. You can see that I left the tallest part of the rear magazine guide alone, though I did remove the strengthening ribs, and cut the gusset out of it's base. The front magazine guide, I removed completely instead of trimming- my one time caving in to impatience. I also removed the 2 small tabs from the sides.


And the rifle itself. Sorry about the shitty pic - the Note 3's camera sucks, the lighting sucked, and my phone's editing apps all suck.


In the end, removing the front mag guide didn't matter, because there is NO movement of the magazine when inserted. Although it's easy to remove, the mag doesn't fall free. That's because I trimmed the stock only enough for the mag well to squeeze up into the stock. If it bugs me, I can always trim a bit more, but right now it doesn't bother me.
Link Posted: 3/27/2016 11:02:18 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/31/2016 8:43:56 PM EDT by Engineer]
I fit the Magpul magwell to the stock on my 700 5-R this weekend. Took about three hours using files and a Dremel with a sanding drum.









I ended up cutting off the front and rear guides with no ill-effects to function.




























 







Cycling video
 








Edited to add pictures of the DBM itself:





























 
Link Posted: 3/28/2016 5:11:29 AM EDT
Nice upgrade guys. Interesting how everyone does it just a bit differently than those before you. Yet achieve the same result.   What a difference a $60+ upgrade makes to a factory stock.
Link Posted: 3/29/2016 11:39:54 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/29/2016 11:46:36 PM EDT by Dash_ISpy]
This is the best thread I've seen this year.

Thanks guys. I'm going to get one ordered and do the same.

ETA $59. Done.
Link Posted: 4/29/2016 3:04:19 AM EDT
Finally started on this tonight. I think I'm about halfway there. I'll post pics when done.
Link Posted: 5/17/2016 6:30:58 PM EDT
So are all of these rifles feeding now?
Link Posted: 5/18/2016 12:00:16 AM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Sapperdaddy04:
So are all of these rifles feeding now?
View Quote


I had no issues.
Link Posted: 5/18/2016 1:02:23 AM EDT
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Originally Posted By Sapperdaddy04:
So are all of these rifles feeding now?
View Quote


Mine worked great

I did a Hogue take off stock. I also stiffened the fore-end by epoxying two 3/16 pieces of steel rod in it. It actually worked really well

I ended up getting a great deal on a hunter stock so I swapped my action over
Link Posted: 5/18/2016 4:54:53 AM EDT
That's good, I plan on ordering some magpul bottom metal soon for bell and Carlson stock.
Link Posted: 5/18/2016 10:42:40 AM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Sapperdaddy04:
So are all of these rifles feeding now?
View Quote

Mine actually feeds like it's supposed to. It didn't feed at all with the factory bottom metal (the magazine box is my main suspect).
Link Posted: 5/18/2016 12:07:22 PM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Sapperdaddy04:
So are all of these rifles feeding now?
View Quote

Mine works great now. Both 5 and 10 rounders.

Link Posted: 5/19/2016 1:16:06 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By Dash_ISpy:
Originally Posted By Sapperdaddy04:
So are all of these rifles feeding now?

Mine works great now. Both 5 and 10 rounders.

http://i840.photobucket.com/albums/zz326/dasharfcom/Mobile%20Uploads/73248FBC-15E7-4A28-97D7-A3C53BA08915_zpsfxpawkpz.jpg

Heck yeah, finally anot affordable magazine system. And the mags are half the price of other ones.
Link Posted: 5/29/2016 9:51:11 PM EDT

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Sapperdaddy04:


So are all of these rifles feeding now?
View Quote




 
No problems with mine either.
Link Posted: 5/30/2016 1:23:37 AM EDT

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Engineer:





  No problems with mine either.

View Quote View All Quotes
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Engineer:



Originally Posted By Sapperdaddy04:

So are all of these rifles feeding now?


  No problems with mine either.





 
None with mine either, and mine is chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor. The only slight issue is if I cut the tab to allow 6 rounds the 6th is way too tight for my liking. I'm assuming it's due to the minimal taper of the case on the 6.5 Creedmoor compared to the .308 Win it's designed for. Oh well, I'm not going to lose any sleep over only being able to fit 6 rounds in instead of 5. I just need to make sure I don't accidentally grab the 6rd mag when I'm hunting.
Link Posted: 6/3/2016 12:23:59 AM EDT
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Originally Posted By Sapperdaddy04:
So are all of these rifles feeding now?
View Quote


My rifle is chambered in 6x47 Lapua and feeds so much better than the factory bottom metal.
Link Posted: 6/5/2016 8:35:46 PM EDT
Got my 700P done today,works great.Thanks all.
Link Posted: 6/6/2016 11:16:10 PM EDT
Looks great guys.
Link Posted: 6/15/2016 12:36:21 AM EDT
OST.  Have a kit coming my way and thinking of a good weekend project.
Link Posted: 6/15/2016 11:21:45 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 6/15/2016 11:21:58 PM EDT by Nmbmxer]
I fit one into the 40X stock on my 700 a couple weeks back. I milled down the front pillar 3/32 or so and removed some material between the trigger and magazine cutouts. I didn't cut the tabs/guides off the bottom metal (plastic) as I think they support the magazine front to back. I did trim off the little tabs on the sides. Works great even if the plastic is out of place on my wood stock...



Link Posted: 6/16/2016 1:57:57 PM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Nmbmxer:
I fit one into the 40X stock on my 700 a couple weeks back. I milled down the front pillar 3/32 or so and removed some material between the trigger and magazine cutouts. I didn't cut the tabs/guides off the bottom metal (plastic) as I think they support the magazine front to back. I did trim off the little tabs on the sides. Works great even if the plastic is out of place on my wood stock...

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q319/WBDIV/Misc/IMG_2337.jpg

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q319/WBDIV/Misc/IMG_2335.jpg
View Quote


That looks amazing. Can you take a whole rifle picture to see how it looks overall?
Link Posted: 6/18/2016 7:50:04 PM EDT
Did a test fit up tonight to start to see where I'd need to take material away on my factory stock.  Might not even start...the darn trigger contacts the trigger guard making it hard to install the bottom metal even without the stock in place.
Link Posted: 6/19/2016 4:17:44 PM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By jblomenberg16:
Did a test fit up tonight to start to see where I'd need to take material away on my factory stock.  Might not even start...the darn trigger contacts the trigger guard making it hard to install the bottom metal even without the stock in place.
View Quote

What trigger? I know the straight faced Timney triggers well require fitting of the stock or the trigger to clear.
Link Posted: 6/19/2016 5:32:54 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 6/19/2016 5:40:14 PM EDT by jblomenberg16]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Tmender03:

What trigger? I know the straight faced Timney triggers well require fitting of the stock or the trigger to clear.
View Quote View All Quotes
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Tmender03:
Originally Posted By jblomenberg16:
Did a test fit up tonight to start to see where I'd need to take material away on my factory stock.  Might not even start...the darn trigger contacts the trigger guard making it hard to install the bottom metal even without the stock in place.

What trigger? I know the straight faced Timney triggers well require fitting of the stock or the trigger to clear.


As far as I know it is a factory Remington trigger.  I don't see any identifying market on it to suggest it is anything other.   I did by the rifle used, but all signs point to bone stock (albeit a fantastic shooter!).   Looking at the other pictures online and in this thread, it looks like it is a tight fight for most triggers.  I realize a lot of extra room behind the trigger isn't really needed, but seems like Magpul cut it a little too close with the aggressive angle vs. the gentle curve of the factory guard.  

Both screws are in about 1 turn just enough to hold it in place and the trigger is inoperable as it is binding up on the guard.







Link Posted: 6/19/2016 6:36:49 PM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By jblomenberg16:


As far as I know it is a factory Remington trigger.  I don't see any identifying market on it to suggest it is anything other.   I did by the rifle used, but all signs point to bone stock (albeit a fantastic shooter!).   Looking at the other pictures online and in this thread, it looks like it is a tight fight for most triggers.  I realize a lot of extra room behind the trigger isn't really needed, but seems like Magpul cut it a little too close with the aggressive angle vs. the gentle curve of the factory guard.  

Both screws are in about 1 turn just enough to hold it in place and the trigger is inoperable as it is binding up on the guard.

<a href="http://s221.photobucket.com/user/jblomenberg16/media/20160619_172009_zpsrodjezqk.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd136/jblomenberg16/20160619_172009_zpsrodjezqk.jpg</a>

<a href="http://s221.photobucket.com/user/jblomenberg16/media/20160619_172150_zps7g0xe3lp.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd136/jblomenberg16/20160619_172150_zps7g0xe3lp.jpg</a>

<a href="http://s221.photobucket.com/user/jblomenberg16/media/20160619_172526_zpsrzeawzkn.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd136/jblomenberg16/20160619_172526_zpsrzeawzkn.jpg</a>

View Quote View All Quotes
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Originally Posted By jblomenberg16:
Originally Posted By Tmender03:
Originally Posted By jblomenberg16:
Did a test fit up tonight to start to see where I'd need to take material away on my factory stock.  Might not even start...the darn trigger contacts the trigger guard making it hard to install the bottom metal even without the stock in place.

What trigger? I know the straight faced Timney triggers well require fitting of the stock or the trigger to clear.


As far as I know it is a factory Remington trigger.  I don't see any identifying market on it to suggest it is anything other.   I did by the rifle used, but all signs point to bone stock (albeit a fantastic shooter!).   Looking at the other pictures online and in this thread, it looks like it is a tight fight for most triggers.  I realize a lot of extra room behind the trigger isn't really needed, but seems like Magpul cut it a little too close with the aggressive angle vs. the gentle curve of the factory guard.  

Both screws are in about 1 turn just enough to hold it in place and the trigger is inoperable as it is binding up on the guard.

<a href="http://s221.photobucket.com/user/jblomenberg16/media/20160619_172009_zpsrodjezqk.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd136/jblomenberg16/20160619_172009_zpsrodjezqk.jpg</a>

<a href="http://s221.photobucket.com/user/jblomenberg16/media/20160619_172150_zps7g0xe3lp.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd136/jblomenberg16/20160619_172150_zps7g0xe3lp.jpg</a>

<a href="http://s221.photobucket.com/user/jblomenberg16/media/20160619_172526_zpsrzeawzkn.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd136/jblomenberg16/20160619_172526_zpsrzeawzkn.jpg</a>


Strange. I use a Timney 510 with no issues, I'm using a Magpul Hunter stock, but that shouldn't matter since you only have the DBM installed. I wonder if it's a tolerance issue?
Link Posted: 6/19/2016 6:57:18 PM EDT

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Tmender03:





Strange. I use a Timney 510 with no issues, I'm using a Magpul Hunter stock, but that shouldn't matter since you only have the DBM installed. I wonder if it's a tolerance issue?
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Originally Posted By Tmender03:



Originally Posted By jblomenberg16:


Originally Posted By Tmender03:


Originally Posted By jblomenberg16:

Did a test fit up tonight to start to see where I'd need to take material away on my factory stock.  Might not even start...the darn trigger contacts the trigger guard making it hard to install the bottom metal even without the stock in place.


What trigger? I know the straight faced Timney triggers well require fitting of the stock or the trigger to clear.




As far as I know it is a factory Remington trigger.  I don't see any identifying market on it to suggest it is anything other.   I did by the rifle used, but all signs point to bone stock (albeit a fantastic shooter!).   Looking at the other pictures online and in this thread, it looks like it is a tight fight for most triggers.  I realize a lot of extra room behind the trigger isn't really needed, but seems like Magpul cut it a little too close with the aggressive angle vs. the gentle curve of the factory guard.  



Both screws are in about 1 turn just enough to hold it in place and the trigger is inoperable as it is binding up on the guard.



<a href="http://s221.photobucket.com/user/jblomenberg16/media/20160619_172009_zpsrodjezqk.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd136/jblomenberg16/20160619_172009_zpsrodjezqk.jpg</a>



<a href="http://s221.photobucket.com/user/jblomenberg16/media/20160619_172150_zps7g0xe3lp.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd136/jblomenberg16/20160619_172150_zps7g0xe3lp.jpg</a>



<a href="http://s221.photobucket.com/user/jblomenberg16/media/20160619_172526_zpsrzeawzkn.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd136/jblomenberg16/20160619_172526_zpsrzeawzkn.jpg</a>





Strange. I use a Timney 510 with no issues, I'm using a Magpul Hunter stock, but that shouldn't matter since you only have the DBM installed. I wonder if it's a tolerance issue?




 
The spacing doesn't seem right. The front looks like it's screwed in too much and pulling the DBM up at an angle, causing the trigger to contact the trigger guard.



Link Posted: 6/19/2016 10:05:17 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 6/19/2016 10:06:29 PM EDT by jblomenberg16]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Engineer:

  The spacing doesn't seem right. The front looks like it's screwed in too much and pulling the DBM up at an angle, causing the trigger to contact the trigger guard.


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Originally Posted By Engineer:
Originally Posted By Tmender03:
Originally Posted By jblomenberg16:
Originally Posted By Tmender03:
Originally Posted By jblomenberg16:
Did a test fit up tonight to start to see where I'd need to take material away on my factory stock.  Might not even start...the darn trigger contacts the trigger guard making it hard to install the bottom metal even without the stock in place.

What trigger? I know the straight faced Timney triggers well require fitting of the stock or the trigger to clear.


As far as I know it is a factory Remington trigger.  I don't see any identifying market on it to suggest it is anything other.   I did by the rifle used, but all signs point to bone stock (albeit a fantastic shooter!).   Looking at the other pictures online and in this thread, it looks like it is a tight fight for most triggers.  I realize a lot of extra room behind the trigger isn't really needed, but seems like Magpul cut it a little too close with the aggressive angle vs. the gentle curve of the factory guard.  

Both screws are in about 1 turn just enough to hold it in place and the trigger is inoperable as it is binding up on the guard.

<a href="http://s221.photobucket.com/user/jblomenberg16/media/20160619_172009_zpsrodjezqk.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd136/jblomenberg16/20160619_172009_zpsrodjezqk.jpg</a>

<a href="http://s221.photobucket.com/user/jblomenberg16/media/20160619_172150_zps7g0xe3lp.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd136/jblomenberg16/20160619_172150_zps7g0xe3lp.jpg</a>

<a href="http://s221.photobucket.com/user/jblomenberg16/media/20160619_172526_zpsrzeawzkn.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd136/jblomenberg16/20160619_172526_zpsrzeawzkn.jpg</a>


Strange. I use a Timney 510 with no issues, I'm using a Magpul Hunter stock, but that shouldn't matter since you only have the DBM installed. I wonder if it's a tolerance issue?

  The spacing doesn't seem right. The front looks like it's screwed in too much and pulling the DBM up at an angle, causing the trigger to contact the trigger guard.




I agree.  If I remove the front screw and rotate it towards the rear I can get enough clearance to operate the trigger, but that puts the front screw about 1/4 of a hole too far back to be able to get started.  I've also run the rear screw in a lot tighter without the front screw and the trigger just wants to dive right into the trigger guard.  The holes in the plastic appear to be free of flash or burrs, but I'm wondering if that is what it is.   I'll try to get a few measurements off the holes with some calipers too just to make sure there isn't a big difference.   Since I'm going to be most likely removing some material from the rest of the bottom "metal" anyway I'm not opposed to opening up or elongating the forward hole just a bit.  But if I'm going to do that I may as well relieve the trigger guard a bit as well.
Link Posted: 6/19/2016 10:29:22 PM EDT

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By jblomenberg16:



I agree.  If I remove the front screw and rotate it towards the rear I can get enough clearance to operate the trigger, but that puts the front screw about 1/4 of a hole too far back to be able to get started.  I've also run the rear screw in a lot tighter without the front screw and the trigger just wants to dive right into the trigger guard.  The holes in the plastic appear to be free of flash or burrs, but I'm wondering if that is what it is.   I'll try to get a few measurements off the holes with some calipers too just to make sure there isn't a big difference.   Since I'm going to be most likely removing some material from the rest of the bottom "metal" anyway I'm not opposed to opening up or elongating the forward hole just a bit.  But if I'm going to do that I may as well relieve the trigger guard a bit as well.

View Quote




 
Are you cutting the vertical mag guides? Those get in the way unless you plan on opening up the stock quite a bit more.




Does the Magpul DBM match up with the stock bottom metal hole spacing?



Link Posted: 6/20/2016 1:53:57 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 6/20/2016 2:00:00 PM EDT by jblomenberg16]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Engineer:

  Are you cutting the vertical mag guides? Those get in the way unless you plan on opening up the stock quite a bit more.


Does the Magpul DBM match up with the stock bottom metal hole spacing?


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Originally Posted By Engineer:
Originally Posted By jblomenberg16:

I agree.  If I remove the front screw and rotate it towards the rear I can get enough clearance to operate the trigger, but that puts the front screw about 1/4 of a hole too far back to be able to get started.  I've also run the rear screw in a lot tighter without the front screw and the trigger just wants to dive right into the trigger guard.  The holes in the plastic appear to be free of flash or burrs, but I'm wondering if that is what it is.   I'll try to get a few measurements off the holes with some calipers too just to make sure there isn't a big difference.   Since I'm going to be most likely removing some material from the rest of the bottom "metal" anyway I'm not opposed to opening up or elongating the forward hole just a bit.  But if I'm going to do that I may as well relieve the trigger guard a bit as well.

  Are you cutting the vertical mag guides? Those get in the way unless you plan on opening up the stock quite a bit more.


Does the Magpul DBM match up with the stock bottom metal hole spacing?




Plan is to remove most of the front guide so I don't get into the aluminum bedding of the stock .  I beleive the rifle to be a Rem 700 P LTR, so it does have a factory bedded stock (think it is H-S precision).  I did notice that the rear screw does bind a bit in the metal insert that is pressed into the plastic body.  I think that is my problem.  I'm going to go ahead and start inletting the stock a bit and then if I have to I may go in and just kiss that rear hole enough to get a bit more clearance.  I'll probably remove a little material to give the trigger a bit of relief just to prevent it touching as I pull through.  This is my first Rem 700, and I'm used to either the savage accutrigger or USGI 2 stage triggers on my M1's and M1a, that have a lot  more travel.   This trigger barely moves and does have a crisp break to it.
Link Posted: 6/28/2016 7:58:34 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 6/28/2016 8:14:55 PM EDT by wildearp]




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Originally Posted By jim:
I had no issues.
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Originally Posted By jim:
Originally Posted By Sapperdaddy04:




So are all of these rifles feeding now?

I had no issues.
I finally tested a second 5 round mag and a 10 round mag.  (this is after forgetting all the mags one range day. ) Single feeding with no follower present isn't what I would call fun.   All mags ran just fine with my 168gr SMK clone rounds.








My photo shows the standard Timney trigger with no special fitting required.








Those photos of the wood stock installation are really sexy.



 

 












Don't forget to properly torque and loctite the action screws.  Check them again after 25-50 rounds down range.  










 


 
Link Posted: 6/28/2016 8:24:35 PM EDT
Realized that round one feeds fine but subsequent rounds hit and don't feed properly on my second build. I think I need to inlet more.
Link Posted: 7/2/2016 11:20:36 AM EDT

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Originally Posted By Dash_ISpy:


Realized that round one feeds fine but subsequent rounds hit and don't feed properly on my second build. I think I need to inlet more.
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The mag lips should be kissing the bottom of the bolt as it slides back and forth.  Just a touch.  If you can't feel any slight friction at first install, the DBM is probably not inletted enough.

 
Link Posted: 7/5/2016 10:23:09 AM EDT
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Originally Posted By gotigers:
Does the magwell come in FDE or OD green?
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Magpul says black only.
Link Posted: 7/18/2016 11:53:59 PM EDT
I want magpul to do a run of lefty ones.  But that won't happen.
Link Posted: 7/19/2016 1:22:27 AM EDT


I need a gunsmith that will do this work on my 700 PSS,
any recommendations?

Link Posted: 7/21/2016 1:10:13 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/21/2016 1:11:41 PM EDT by Will]
I just sold my HS Precision stock and bought the Magpul stock. It seemed like the easier thing to do. Got enough out of it to buy the Magpul stock, Magazine conversion and an extra mag. Now I have a stock with an adjustable butt and a somewhat adjustable cheekpiece......The gun shoots as good as it ever did, maybe better with two loads that were Meh before.....
Link Posted: 12/18/2016 12:05:18 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 12/18/2016 2:08:12 PM EDT by gotigers]
I finally got around to installing a Magpul DBM on my Rem 700 5R .308. It was much easier than I thought it would be. I hand filed most of the work on the stock, gently used a round dremel sand drum on the radii and cut the front internal tab off the DBM. I have a few small chips off the finish, but overall my lines are fairly straight with minimal gap. The mag fits easily. Cartridges feed and eject as required. I wish I had done this 6 months ago. I am very happy with it. Now I need to get a real bolt knob installed.

Edit: the jewel trigger has plenty of room.



Link Posted: 12/18/2016 12:57:21 AM EDT
I just did this on a greyboe renegade stock. Is everyone elses screws running shorter than before? Mine are are showing 2-3 threads in the receiver, I may need to remove some shims I added to get mag lock.  Other than that it worked great. I actually used a stock made for a badger bottom metal, so I have just alittle bedding to do here and there. I will take pics when I finish getting it cleaned up. I am waiting on MDT mags since I am running .223, I don't know if that will make a difference as well.
Link Posted: 12/22/2016 3:55:15 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By gotigers:
I finally got around to installing a Magpul DBM on my Rem 700 5R .308. It was much easier than I thought it would be. I hand filed most of the work on the stock, gently used a round dremel sand drum on the radii and cut the front internal tab off the DBM. I have a few small chips off the finish, but overall my lines are fairly straight with minimal gap. The mag fits easily. Cartridges feed and eject as required. I wish I had done this 6 months ago. I am very happy with it. Now I need to get a real bolt knob installed.

Edit: the jewel trigger has plenty of room.

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d68/50_BMG/Rem%20700%205R%20308/MDBM3_zpssqqefrld.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d68/50_BMG/Rem%20700%205R%20308/MDBM2_zpshewm779l.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d68/50_BMG/Rem%20700%205R%20308/MDBM1_zpsdoui9ovx.jpg
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You can hacksaw or Dremil down your factory bolt knob into a  basic square protrusion, measuring it to the size you need to run a proper thread die.  After getting the basic square, you can then round off the corners to proper size and then run the die.  Thread on your Badger bolt knob.  Tape off anything you don't want to hit if the tool slips. 
Link Posted: 1/2/2017 11:14:49 PM EDT
The Magpul bottom "metal" is polymer, right?  Are there any chance in loss of accuracy due to this?
Link Posted: 1/3/2017 10:11:04 AM EDT
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Originally Posted By Hunter660:
The Magpul bottom "metal" is polymer, right?  Are there any chance in loss of accuracy due to this?
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I can't conceivably think of any way it could effect accuracy.  Once the bolt has chased the round into the chamber, the bottom metal is entirely independent of the firing sequence/setup.  

Now, during installation, if you have to remove aluminum to bed the bottom metal to the stock, you might lose some rigidity and thus accuracy.

So long as the core of your stock has not been altered during installation and the bottom metal reliably feeds rounds, I think you should be G2G.
Link Posted: 1/17/2017 11:30:47 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By Hunter660:
The Magpul bottom "metal" is polymer, right?  Are there any chance in loss of accuracy due to this?
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Shooting 5" groups at 600 yards before the DBM and after.
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