3D suppressors (Page 5 of 11)
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Originally Posted By mvintx: Started my FTN4.5 PCC print and it doesn't look great. Lot's of filament pieces scattered around the bed and the details of the baffles aren't as clean as I think they should be. The ASA I'm using for the support interface looks good, no loose pieces like the PA6CF is doing. Searching the web tells me it could be the retraction speed and/or length. Filament is dry, flow ratio has been calibrated, haven't figured out how to do the pressure advance yet. Anybody care to share what they're using for their retraction settings? Bambu Wiki suggests a length of .8 and a speed of 30 but I don't want to just plug those numbers in without some more testing. I'm not going to waste any more filament on this...finger poised above the cancel button. Pic to follow. https://i.imgur.com/dUwKSJh.jpeg I'm leaning toward oozing during nozzle swap which hints that it's still a little too wet. Bone dry PA6 really shouldn't be oozing hardly at all, and 0.8 retraction seems a little high to me. |
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Originally Posted By CFletch: Awesome, it looks great! I'll print this after my current print ends, which should be tomorrow afternoon if it doesn't fail overnight for some reason. I'll let you know how it goes. Any recommendations for layer height with PA6? I've been printing cans at 0.15mm but the other parts of the spool holder turned out fine at 0.24mm draft. I assume 0.24mm would be too large a layer height for the threads, though. I printed mine out of ABS at .2mm with a 0.4 nozzle for use in the S4. I think any layer height you want would work fine since there aren't any steep overhangs. The main thing to watch out for is the seams on the ends where it rolls - you'll want to sand or file them down flush if they stick up at all. |
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Originally Posted By Blob: I printed mine out of ABS at .2mm with a 0.4 nozzle for use in the S4. I think any layer height you want would work fine since there aren't any steep overhangs. The main thing to watch out for is the seams on the ends where it rolls - you'll want to sand or file them down flush if they stick up at all. Originally Posted By Blob: Originally Posted By CFletch: Awesome, it looks great! I'll print this after my current print ends, which should be tomorrow afternoon if it doesn't fail overnight for some reason. I'll let you know how it goes. Any recommendations for layer height with PA6? I've been printing cans at 0.15mm but the other parts of the spool holder turned out fine at 0.24mm draft. I assume 0.24mm would be too large a layer height for the threads, though. I printed mine out of ABS at .2mm with a 0.4 nozzle for use in the S4. I think any layer height you want would work fine since there aren't any steep overhangs. The main thing to watch out for is the seams on the ends where it rolls - you'll want to sand or file them down flush if they stick up at all. |
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Originally Posted By Blob: I'm leaning toward oozing during nozzle swap which hints that it's still a little too wet. Bone dry PA6 really shouldn't be oozing hardly at all, and 0.8 retraction seems a little high to me. The filament was in the E2 dryer at 100° for 22 hours. It was dried previously at 85° and put into a cereaI box with desiccant. I weighed the spool before I put it into the dryer and 22 hours later it weighed the same. I'd be surprised if it had any moisture in it at all but I guess it's possible. I might try dropping the print temp by 5° and see how that works. Tomorrow is another day. |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: The filament was in the E2 dryer at 100° for 22 hours. It was dried previously at 85° and put into a cereaI box with desiccant. I weighed the spool before I put it into the dryer and 22 hours later it weighed the same. I'd be surprised if it had any moisture in it at all but I guess it's possible. I might try dropping the print temp by 5° and see how that works. Tomorrow is another day. Yeah that should be plenty dry. My next thought would be to look at the gcode and see what it's doing during nozzle change because all the strings seem to be located around the purge tower. |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: Started my FTN4.5 PCC print and it doesn't look great. Lot's of filament pieces scattered around the bed and the details of the baffles aren't as clean as I think they should be. The ASA I'm using for the support interface looks good, no loose pieces like the PA6CF is doing. Searching the web tells me it could be the retraction speed and/or length. Filament is dry, flow ratio has been calibrated, haven't figured out how to do the pressure advance yet. Anybody care to share what they're using for their retraction settings? Bambu Wiki suggests a length of .8 and a speed of 30 but I don't want to just plug those numbers in without some more testing. I'm not going to waste any more filament on this...finger poised above the cancel button. Pic to follow. https://i.imgur.com/dUwKSJh.jpeg Brand of PA6-CF might be useful as well. I know what workable settings are for Fiberon PA6-CF20 but I also know that it behaves a little differently than other PA6 does. These are the settings that have been working for me, though I have had the volumetric as high as 6 without issues for prints I don't need to be all that strong. Attached File Attached File |
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here's an odd question: My E2 dryer has a drying mode and an annealing mode. For PA6-CF the temp and time for both drying and annealing is 100C for 10 hours. So what would the difference be between the 2 modes on the dryer if the temp and time are the same? |
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Originally Posted By CFletch: here's an odd question: My E2 dryer has a drying mode and an annealing mode. For PA6-CF the temp and time for both drying and annealing is 100C for 10 hours. So what would the difference be between the 2 modes on the dryer if the temp and time are the same? I haven't seen the annealing mode on mine. Maybe it's a slow ramp up and ramp down. |
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Originally Posted By CFletch: Could you share your max print speed, volumetric flow setting, and type of nozzle (material and size)? Brand of PA6-CF might be useful as well. I know what workable settings are for Fiberon PA6-CF20 but I also know that it behaves a little differently than other PA6 does. These are the settings that have been working for me, though I have had the volumetric as high as 6 without issues for prints I don't need to be all that strong. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/302267/image843863_png-3802850.JPGhttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/302267/image48348_png-3802851.JPG Thanks ever so much for your screenshot. I use both Sunlu and Fiberon’s PA6CF, they print about the same but have different flow ratios. .96 was the default flow ratio but the calibration recommended .73. These are my Fiberon settings…don’t have a pressure advance number yet and haven’t figured out how to enter it into Bambu Studio without using their calibration setup. I’m guessing you’re using Orca? My retraction is set to .8mm and a speed of 30mm/s. Using a .6 nozzle with a print speed of 30mm/s. Other than the pressure advance and your flow ratio, my setting are pretty much the same as yours. I might try reducing the temp 5-10° which seems to be a popular fix for my oozing problem. I printed a thread adaptor for the FTN 4.5 and it turned out pretty nice, threads just as crisp as they can be with PA6 but still had some oozing strings at the prime tower. The cans I’ve printed that stand on end, turn out great. It’s the one’s that lay on about a 20° angle with supports that are driving me crazy. Thanks again for your response.  |
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Well, I did the flow rate calibration cube for vase mode (hmmm, vase mode might be the problem), 1 wall, took three measurements on each side, averaged those. Divided the planned wall thickness by the measured average multiplied by the default ratio that Studio comes up with. Did it for the .4 and .6 nozzles and came up with .83 and .73 respectively. Can't seem to use the calibration feature in Studio because it doesn't recognize filament when it's fed from the HT in bypass mode. The H2D thinks it's coming from the external spool. I printed the SLR blast can threaded adaptor today and it came out pretty decent. Threads are about as good as I've seen with PACF on a sideways printed object. |
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In just used the flow rate the manufacturer recommended Why are you printing in vase mode? I don't think I've ever used that setting, but I don't know if it's beneficial to suppressors or something. |
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Originally Posted By CFletch: In just used the flow rate the manufacturer recommended Why are you printing in vase mode? I don't think I've ever used that setting, but I don't know if it's beneficial to suppressors or something. Big mistake here. You can get away with default profiles for a lot of stuff but for gun parts and especially suppressors I consider flow ratio to be the most critical setting to calibrate and get right. Skip everything else if you want, but calibrate flow ratio. This could very well be the reason your cans split after one shot. Printing a cube in vase mode is one way of calibrating flow ratio. You specify the line thickness in the slicer and print a single walled part so you can measure the actual line thickness so you can compensate how much material the printer is extruding. Every printer/nozzle/filament/filament brand combination will use a different value here. Most generic profiles that I've seen deliberately use values that underextrude. For example, generic PA6-CF profiles are set to .95 but my calibrated value is 1.03 which is an 8% difference. Read up here https://www.ar15.com/forums/General/Filament-Calibration-Guide-New-Filament-Don-t-skip-this-/194-2836575/ https://youtu.be/gVU5If1VsAM?si=iQyPv47NtPCwjPsB&t=780 |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: Well, I did the flow rate calibration cube for vase mode (hmmm, vase mode might be the problem), 1 wall, took three measurements on each side, averaged those. Divided the planned wall thickness by the measured average multiplied by the default ratio that Studio comes up with. Did it for the .4 and .6 nozzles and came up with .83 and .73 respectively. Can't seem to use the calibration feature in Studio because it doesn't recognize filament when it's fed from the HT in bypass mode. The H2D thinks it's coming from the external spool. I printed the SLR blast can threaded adaptor today and it came out pretty decent. Threads are about as good as I've seen with PACF on a sideways printed object. What did you use to measure the wall thickness? Micrometers are the only acceptable answer. Calipers don't have the accuracy that you want, are too easily influenced by varying finger pressure, and measuring at the very tips of the jaws can easily throw off your measurement by .03mm or more due to deflection. Not to mention they are very commonly incorrectly zeroed due to burrs or dirt on the jaws. I am a machinist and I will die on this hill. Calipers are not accurate enough for this application. |
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Originally Posted By Blob: What did you use to measure the wall thickness? Micrometers are the only acceptable answer. Calipers don't have the accuracy that you want, are too easily influenced by varying finger pressure, and measuring at the very tips of the jaws can easily throw off your measurement by .03mm or more due to deflection. Not to mention they are very commonly incorrectly zeroed due to burrs or dirt on the jaws. I am a machinist and I will die on this hill. Calipers are not accurate enough for this application. I did use calipers but I also have a micrometer. Still have the cubes so I'll measure them again and compare the results. Thanks for that input. Vase mode was only enabled for the calibration cube. I do not use vase mode for anything. I did the YOLO calibration mentioned in Obsessed's thread and the result was a .01 difference from the baseline. edited: It is surprising that even with the error induced by using calipers, the result would be so different from the YOLO. |
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I was printing the new spindle overnight. Of course, I woke up to the spool having tipped over. Catch 22 up in here. I have another spool to use with enough mass to avoid tipping, so I'll try again after checking flow calibration. |
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Originally Posted By CFletch: I was printing the new spindle overnight. Of course, I woke up to the spool having tipped over. Catch 22 up in here. I have another spool to use with enough mass to avoid tipping, so I'll try again after checking flow calibration. I made these spool weights that hold a length of 1.75" diameter steel bar for use in my E2 and still had very limited success using the stock rollers. I could upload them if you want to try them. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By Blob: I made these spool weights that hold a length of 1.75" diameter steel bar for use in my E2 and still had very limited success using the stock rollers. I could upload them if you want to try them. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/160722/1000020994_jpg-3803355.JPG Originally Posted By Blob: Originally Posted By CFletch: I was printing the new spindle overnight. Of course, I woke up to the spool having tipped over. Catch 22 up in here. I have another spool to use with enough mass to avoid tipping, so I'll try again after checking flow calibration. I made these spool weights that hold a length of 1.75" diameter steel bar for use in my E2 and still had very limited success using the stock rollers. I could upload them if you want to try them. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/160722/1000020994_jpg-3803355.JPG |
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| My dryer turned off sometime in the night, and it appears that a few hours was enough time for the PA6 to become wet enough to cause dogshit printing, to the extent that my calibration tiles all look equally fuzzy, like hardened felt. Time to dry for another 10 hours... |
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Originally Posted By CFletch: My dryer turned off sometime in the night, and it appears that a few hours was enough time for the PA6 to become wet enough to cause dogshit printing, to the extent that my calibration tiles all look equally fuzzy, like hardened felt. Time to dry for another 10 hours... Set the timer to 99 hours and let it ride |
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Originally Posted By Blob: Set the timer to 99 hours and let it ride Originally Posted By Blob: Originally Posted By CFletch: My dryer turned off sometime in the night, and it appears that a few hours was enough time for the PA6 to become wet enough to cause dogshit printing, to the extent that my calibration tiles all look equally fuzzy, like hardened felt. Time to dry for another 10 hours... Set the timer to 99 hours and let it ride |
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OK, getting ready to take on the PA6 CF adventure. I bought a Polymaker single spool dryer that will go up to the proper temp. Reading through the thread are you saying I have to not only dry it for 12 hours around 100c, but also print from a running dryer at the same temp? If it stays in a drybox feeding through a tube, will it absorb enough moisture to make a difference or am I tempting fate w/o a running drybox. |
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Originally Posted By bmarshall1: OK, getting ready to take on the PA6 CF adventure. I bought a Polymaker single spool dryer that will go up to the proper temp. Reading through the thread are you saying I have to not only dry it for 12 hours around 100c, but also print from a running dryer at the same temp? If it stays in a drybox feeding through a tube, will it absorb enough moisture to make a difference or am I tempting fate w/o a running drybox. I'd run from a running drybox. It just isn't worth wasting the time and expensive filament doing otherwise. |
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Originally Posted By bmarshall1: OK, getting ready to take on the PA6 CF adventure. I bought a Polymaker single spool dryer that will go up to the proper temp. Reading through the thread are you saying I have to not only dry it for 12 hours around 100c, but also print from a running dryer at the same temp? If it stays in a drybox feeding through a tube, will it absorb enough moisture to make a difference or am I tempting fate w/o a running drybox. |
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I've been drying my PA6 for 8 hours at 100C and it's still coming out like hard felt. Either it got super wet last night or something else is wrong. I'll give it another 2 hours (which will push it over 10 hours) and try again. I'll be keeping the dryer on all the time now, at least until I'm done with PA6, but I'm getting annoyed that I can't even get these flow calibration tiles done. I wonder if the filament in the feed tube isn't getting dried. |
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I usually dry my PA6 at 100° for 24 hours then heat it at 70° while feeding the printer. Keeps the filament somewhat flexible. I wonder also about when the filament sits in the PTFE tube for any length of time in between prints. Thinking it's becoming brittle and will crack somewhere in the tube or in the extruder. Hasn't happened....yet. |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: Here'a a thought. Anyone think of a reason not to print a FTN 4.5 PCC on it's end instead of laying on the bed at an angle? I can understand it for a rifle cartridge but for a subsonic pistol round? Why would you want to do that when the FTN.5 exists and is designed that way from the beginning? |
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Well, my crappy printing was at least partially a clog of nylon above the heated part of the nozzle but still part of the nozzle tube. Eventually got bad enough that the little gears couldn't force anything through at all. Heating the nozzle to scary temps didn't clear it. What ended up working was heating the end of some PA6 filament with a lighter, enough to soften it just below melting but not enough to actually melt it, and then quickly jamming it into the feed end of the (removed) nozzle assembly to hopefully bond to and grasp the broken filament so I could pull it out with the intact filament. It took many attempts but it eventually worked. I'll try printing calibration tiles again once my kid goes to bed and I can reassemble my print head. |
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Originally Posted By Blob: Why would you want to do that when the FTN.5 exists and is designed that way from the beginning? Here's my reason...objects printed vertically are much cleaner and have better detail. Objects printed horizontally look like crap. I know, I know my filament calibrations aren't right. But why would there be such a difference? First pic. Two thread adaptors for the 4.5 PCC. One on the left was printed in a vertical orientation. One on the right was printed horizontally. Fiberon PA6CF. Second pic. 3 hours of printing time on a 4.5 PCC before I cancelled the print. Looks like crap. Fiberon PA6CF. Just when I think I've got this filament figured out, crap like this happens.  
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well, it turns out I did not unclog the nozzle. In fact, nothing I do unclogs it. I have cold pulled it half a dozen times, but there is something in there near the very end that keeps restricting flow and will not melt out even up to 350C. I don't have a needle that will fit, so I ordered some, maybe that will fix it. But they won't arrive for a few days. After fucking with it for for like 4 hours I'm tempted to just buy a new nozzle. Would I be better off with a 0.6mm nozzle for Nylon? |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: Here's my reason...objects printed vertically are much cleaner and have better detail. Objects printed horizontally look like crap. I know, I know my filament calibrations aren't right. But why would there be such a difference? First pic. Two thread adaptors for the 4.5 PCC. One on the left was printed in a vertical orientation. One on the right was printed horizontally. Fiberon PA6CF. Second pic. 3 hours of printing time on a 4.5 PCC before I cancelled the print. Looks like crap. Fiberon PA6CF. Just when I think I've got this filament figured out, crap like this happens. https://i.imgur.com/BeuEIeo.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/Iy4M2ks.jpeg I think those horizontal prints look great.  But my point was that if you want to print a vertical can then use the ftn.5 and not the ftn4.5. |
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Originally Posted By CFletch: well, it turns out I did not unclog the nozzle. In fact, nothing I do unclogs it. I have cold pulled it half a dozen times, but there is something in there near the very end that keeps restricting flow and will not melt out even up to 350C. I don't have a needle that will fit, so I ordered some, maybe that will fix it. But they won't arrive for a few days. After fucking with it for for like 4 hours I'm tempted to just buy a new nozzle. Would I be better off with a 0.6mm nozzle for Nylon? Congrats! You just discovered the hard way why I don't print carbon fiber material with a 0.4mm nozzle.  0.6mm standard flow nozzles for me nearly exclusively. |
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Originally Posted By Blob: I think those horizontal prints look great. But my point was that if you want to print a vertical can then use the ftn.5 and not the ftn4.5. I guess if you think those threads look good then I'll stop worrying about it. My reason for wanting the 4.5 is for the Breek-style connection to a muzzle device. That way I can swap between my MP5 and other 9mm PDWs. The direct thread is kind of a pain unless you leave it on permanently. The FTN5 PCC is amazing though. Put another 200 rounds through it a few days ago and I am amazed at how quiet it is. Throwing subsonic 147s against steel plates is a hoot. If it weren't for the loud noise of those big bullets hitting steel, hearing protection would not have been required. |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: I guess if you think those threads look good then I'll stop worrying about it. My reason for wanting the 4.5 is for the Breek-style connection to a muzzle device. That way I can swap between my MP5 and other 9mm PDWs. The direct thread is kind of a pain unless you leave it on permanently. The FTN5 PCC is amazing though. Put another 200 rounds through it a few days ago and I am amazed at how quiet it is. Throwing subsonic 147s against steel plates is a hoot. If it weren't for the loud noise of those big bullets hitting steel, hearing protection would not have been required. Does the ftn5 not use the same thread inserts? I'm pretty sure it does, but I'm not home to confirm. |
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Originally Posted By Blob: What did you use to measure the wall thickness? Micrometers are the only acceptable answer. Calipers don't have the accuracy that you want, are too easily influenced by varying finger pressure, and measuring at the very tips of the jaws can easily throw off your measurement by .03mm or more due to deflection. Not to mention they are very commonly incorrectly zeroed due to burrs or dirt on the jaws. I am a machinist and I will die on this hill. Calipers are not accurate enough for this application. I re-took measurements for all three cubes using a micrometer and there was a difference, but not much. Where I made a mistake was using .45 for the desired wall thickness when it was actually .62. That makes my flow ratio a .99 instead of a .73. The devil is in the details. edited: didn't see your post before I sent this. The FTN5 PCC uses a 3/4 x 16 to 1/2 x 28 thread adaptor. Just like the FTN5 rimfires. |
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Originally Posted By Blob: Congrats! You just discovered the hard way why I don't print carbon fiber material with a 0.4mm nozzle. 0.6mm standard flow nozzles for me nearly exclusively. Originally Posted By Blob: Originally Posted By CFletch: well, it turns out I did not unclog the nozzle. In fact, nothing I do unclogs it. I have cold pulled it half a dozen times, but there is something in there near the very end that keeps restricting flow and will not melt out even up to 350C. I don't have a needle that will fit, so I ordered some, maybe that will fix it. But they won't arrive for a few days. After fucking with it for for like 4 hours I'm tempted to just buy a new nozzle. Would I be better off with a 0.6mm nozzle for Nylon? Congrats! You just discovered the hard way why I don't print carbon fiber material with a 0.4mm nozzle. 0.6mm standard flow nozzles for me nearly exclusively. Any advise for clearing out the 0.4mm one, though, so I can keep using it for other filaments? |
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Originally Posted By CFletch: I'll order a 0.6mm nozzle, then Any advise for clearing out the 0.4mm one, though, so I can keep using it for other filaments? Very strong chance the material inside has been burned to charcoal. If cold pulls haven't worked then I'd just toss it. |
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Originally Posted By Blob: Very strong chance the material inside has been burned to charcoal. If cold pulls haven't worked then I'd just toss it. Originally Posted By Blob: Originally Posted By CFletch: I'll order a 0.6mm nozzle, then Any advise for clearing out the 0.4mm one, though, so I can keep using it for other filaments? Very strong chance the material inside has been burned to charcoal. If cold pulls haven't worked then I'd just toss it. Is there any real need for the pricey tungsten carbide nozzle over one with a hardened steel tip? |
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Originally Posted By CFletch: sad, it's a tungsten one Is there any real need for the pricey tungsten carbide nozzle over one with a hardened steel tip? My main nozzle is a steel ObXidian and it works well enough but I also have a few Diamondbacks that I like. If you're going to spend money on a premium nozzle and plan on keeping the printer a long time I would get the diamondback, otherwise steel works fine. |
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Joined the "clogged nozzle" club again last night. After an 0230 trip to the bathroom I thought to look in on the printer. FTN 4.5 PCC about 10 hours into a 29 hour print. On the good side, my recently applied K-factor of .014 has cleaned up details on the baffles quite nicely. Still have pieces of filament scattered around the bed. The nozzle is not over-extruding on the print but does so on the prime tower when it switches between the Fiberon and the ASA. I'll try reducing the retraction from .8 to .4. I still want to do Obsessed's pressure advance test to see if I can improve the filament flow some. Nozzle looks salvageable but think I'll use another. Considering the Diamondback nozzle - $150 on Amazon. They claim it is less prone to clogging and Blob recommends it. Also used the Geetech glue stick for this print...seems to work great and a helluva lot cheaper than the Bambu. I'll try the print again with a new nozzle. This thought just came to me...been using a stainless steel toothbrush to clean the nozzles. I heat them up in the toolhead then pull them out and give them a brushing. I wonder if I'm damaging them with stainless steel. I don't think a brass brush will do that good a job. 
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| Got a new 0.6mm nozzle. Dialing in my flow ratio. It seems really low. Manufacturer rec was .95, but I'm looking at something like 0.83 judging by the slicer's built-in calibration tiles followed by the cube-vasemode calibration method. Is that normal? |
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Originally Posted By CFletch: I finally finished printing the new spindle. It works great. Did you have to use supports for the spindle? Looked like it needed them. I picked up a Diamondback nozzle. On the road right now and haven't had a chance to install it. |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: Did you have to use supports for the spindle? Looked like it needed them. I picked up a Diamondback nozzle. On the road right now and haven't had a chance to install it. Yeah it needs supports. I could've designed it to be three pieces and it would've printed unsupported. But I didn't.
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