3D suppressors (Page 4 of 11)
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Originally Posted By mvintx: Lot's of folks use the Elmer's purple glue stick but I use Bambu's...it's pricey compared to Elmer's. When I bought my H2D I got both their liquid and solid glue so that's what I've been using. I originally used the liquid glue for my suppressor prints but started having failures. Since switching to a glue stick I've had zero problems. When the print is finished and the plate cools, it is really stuck on there but comes off with some gentle prying with a scraper. I use both a textured PEI and engineering plate and had success with both. Just make sure - and I'm sure you are - scrubbing your plate with dish soap and water. Sometimes I'll give it a spritz of IPA and let that dry before applying the glue. Oh, and although Fiberon does not recommend any chamber heat, mine gets up to 50 or 55 during the printing process so I set the heat at 50 also. Good luck bro'. I feel your pain. I'll invest in some glue sticks. And yes, I'm scrubbing with soap and water (specifically the printer maker's recommendation of dishwasher detergent and water). Though perhaps I need to do so more often with nylon than with other materials. How often do you clean your plates with PA filaments? |
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Getting ready to go a couple Form1's soon so I can start printing out some suppressors (assuming approval). Any good videos out there you guys could suggest that goes through the whole process for filling out the online forms step by step? I just want to make sure I don't screw something up and have them rejected. Thanks! |
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I would definitely up the nozzle temp to 300 if you can. You could go higher but supposedly nylon will start degrading above that temp. I haven't seen any research indicating that's the case but I also haven't gone looking for it. Get your chamber as hot as you can. It will promote layer adhesion and reduce warping. I am using prusas satin sheet without glue and it has been very reliable for me. Vision Miner's nano polymer adhesive is supposed to be the bee's knees. It is available on Amazon. What are your current print speeds? Have you calibrated flow? Are you drying the material hot enough beforehand? Did you anneal after printing? All of these factors are hugely critical for suppressors and you don't want to skimp on any of them. I have had so many issues printing with spools just sitting on top of rollers that I have gone back to exclusively supporting the spool through the center hole. It is far more reliable IME and all of my problems disappeared when I went back to center hole support. I am using a sunlu S4 to feed during the print using an internal roller bearing assembly I found on printables and I designed some custom spindles to support the spool and lock it in place perfectly so it has zero wobble even when the rigid filament is trying to kick it off center. It works great. I'd be happy to share if you wanted it. |
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Originally Posted By CFletch: Thanks. I think I'll stick with 50C chamber just for consistency, as my garage (where the printer is) will go from 30-55C through an all-day or longer print. I'll invest in some glue sticks. And yes, I'm scrubbing with soap and water (specifically the printer maker's recommendation of dishwasher detergent and water). Though perhaps I need to do so more often with nylon than with other materials. How often do you clean your plates with PA filaments? I clean my plates before every PA print. Yeah, it's a PIA but a cheap price to pay to avoid a failed print. Try an Elmer's glue stick since they're cheap and available everywhere. Then start a suppressor print and let it go for a couple of hours and then cancel the print. Check and see how well the print is stuck to the bed. Just throwin' that out there. I'm a newb to this stuff, printed my first rimfire can on a P2S with Sunlu PA6. Blob recommended to print it slow (30 mm/s), hot (300°) and at a bed temp of 100° (except for Fiberon). Set the volumetric flow to 3, and that's what I've done for my last 4 cans. Happy to help. |
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Originally Posted By imq707s: Getting ready to go a couple Form1's soon so I can start printing out some suppressors (assuming approval). Any good videos out there you guys could suggest that goes through the whole process for filling out the online forms step by step? I just want to make sure I don't screw someone up and have them rejected. Thanks! -stock picture of the printer, from the manufacturer's site, in jpg format -stock picture of the roll of filament you plan to use, from the site you expect to buy it from -a fingerprint file in .eft format -passport-style photo of your face (you can use your phone like I did, just get the distance and angle right, and no glasses or hat) -for details on the design/how you plan to make it, put only "IT WILL BE MADE USING ADDITIVE MANUFACTURING USING A [make+model] 3D PRINTER AND PA6-CF FILAMENT." If you use a different filament for some reason, put that instead of PA6-CF. Do not provide any further detail on the plan, file, or anything else. -for reason, "ALL LAWFUL PURPOSES" -you'll need the name and official contact info for your local Sheriff, which you can get off their website. It's a very easy form. I felt silly after doing my first one for thinking it'd be a much bigger deal than it was. |
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Originally Posted By imq707s: Getting ready to go a couple Form1's soon so I can start printing out some suppressors (assuming approval). Any good videos out there you guys could suggest that goes through the whole process for filling out the online forms step by step? I just want to make sure I don't screw someone up and have them rejected. Thanks! Look at a couple of these. There is some nuance to navigating around Eforms and how to fill out a Form 1. PM me if you have other questions and I'll try to help. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=eforms+form+1 |
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Originally Posted By Blob: I would definitely up the nozzle temp to 300 if you can. You could go higher but supposedly nylon will start degrading above that temp. I haven't seen any research indicating that's the case but I also haven't gone looking for it. Get your chamber as hot as you can. It will promote layer adhesion and reduce warping. I am using prusas satin sheet without glue and it has been very reliable for me. Vision Miner's nano polymer adhesive is supposed to be the bee's knees. It is available on Amazon. What are your current print speeds? Have you calibrated flow? Are you drying the material hot enough beforehand? Did you anneal after printing? All of these factors are hugely critical for suppressors and you don't want to skimp on any of them. I have had so many issues printing with spools just sitting on top of rollers that I have gone back to exclusively supporting the spool through the center hole. It is far more reliable IME and all of my problems disappeared when I went back to center hole support. I am using a sunlu S4 to feed during the print using an internal roller bearing assembly I found on printables and I designed some custom spindles to support the spool and lock it in place perfectly so it has zero wobble even when the rigid filament is trying to kick it off center. It works great. I'd be happy to share if you wanted it. I have the speeds way slower than the filament manufacture says it can go to. I think my max is 60 for suppressor prints. I have calibrated flow, no issues there. I am drying for 10 hours at 100C before printing, then printing from the dryer running at 100C for the duration. I did anneal as per the manufacturer spec (another 10 hours at 100C, though on the annealing setting instead of the drying one). I am printing a central spool holder now in pieces, as I have had quite a few issues with the spool twisting at last 50 or so meters of material on the spool and causing modern art. The print spool insert is in many part batches/plates and relatively small in material use, so it's a little less material risk as I try to get the settings dialed in, and a PA6-CF spool holder should last forever no matter how hot I run the dryer. A spindle to lock it in place is a very good idea. I was just going to have another spool in there (as it's a sunlu e2 2-spool unit) but a custom spindle might be better. I might just print some rings or studs that slip over the normal spindle for this holder and epoxy them in place at the right points. |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: I clean my plates before every PA print. Yeah, it's a PIA but a cheap price to pay to avoid a failed print. Try an Elmer's glue stick since they're cheap and available everywhere. Then start a suppressor print and let it go for a couple of hours and then cancel the print. Check and see how well the print is stuck to the bed. Just throwin' that out there. I'm a newb to this stuff, printed my first rimfire can on a P2S with Sunlu PA6. Blob recommended to print it slow (30 mm/s), hot (300 ) and at a bed temp of 100 (except for Fiberon). Set the volumetric flow to 3, and that's what I've done for my last 4 cans. Happy to help. Originally Posted By mvintx: Originally Posted By CFletch: Thanks. I think I'll stick with 50C chamber just for consistency, as my garage (where the printer is) will go from 30-55C through an all-day or longer print. I'll invest in some glue sticks. And yes, I'm scrubbing with soap and water (specifically the printer maker's recommendation of dishwasher detergent and water). Though perhaps I need to do so more often with nylon than with other materials. How often do you clean your plates with PA filaments? I clean my plates before every PA print. Yeah, it's a PIA but a cheap price to pay to avoid a failed print. Try an Elmer's glue stick since they're cheap and available everywhere. Then start a suppressor print and let it go for a couple of hours and then cancel the print. Check and see how well the print is stuck to the bed. Just throwin' that out there. I'm a newb to this stuff, printed my first rimfire can on a P2S with Sunlu PA6. Blob recommended to print it slow (30 mm/s), hot (300 ) and at a bed temp of 100 (except for Fiberon). Set the volumetric flow to 3, and that's what I've done for my last 4 cans. Happy to help. |
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Originally Posted By CFletch: I'm using the textured PEI sheet the printer came with. I just ordered some crealty glue sticks so we'll see how those work. I have the speeds way slower than the filament manufacture says it can go to. I think my max is 60 for suppressor prints. I have calibrated flow, no issues there. I am drying for 10 hours at 100C before printing, then printing from the dryer running at 100C for the duration. I did anneal as per the manufacturer spec (another 10 hours at 100C, though on the annealing setting instead of the drying one). I am printing a central spool holder now in pieces, as I have had quite a few issues with the spool twisting at last 50 or so meters of material on the spool and causing modern art. The print spool insert is in many part batches/plates and relatively small in material use, so it's a little less material risk as I try to get the settings dialed in, and a PA6-CF spool holder should last forever no matter how hot I run the dryer. A spindle to lock it in place is a very good idea. I was just going to have another spool in there (as it's a sunlu e2 2-spool unit) but a custom spindle might be better. I might just print some rings or studs that slip over the normal spindle for this holder and epoxy them in place at the right points. What printer are you using? I run my PA6 at around 30mm/s for maximum strength. Supports can be printed faster to reduce print time a little. Do you have a link to the spool holder you're making? If I find the time I might end up designing one for the E2. The spindle I designed is custom made to fit Fiberon spools specifically but I could redesign it to accommodate a wider range of internal diameters and spool widths and then I could upload it. |
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Originally Posted By Blob: What printer are you using? I run my PA6 at around 30mm/s for maximum strength. Supports can be printed faster to reduce print time a little. Do you have a link to the spool holder you're making? If I find the time I might end up designing one for the E2. The spindle I designed is custom made to fit Fiberon spools specifically but I could redesign it to accommodate a wider range of internal diameters and spool widths and then I could upload it. Originally Posted By Blob: Originally Posted By CFletch: I'm using the textured PEI sheet the printer came with. I just ordered some crealty glue sticks so we'll see how those work. I have the speeds way slower than the filament manufacture says it can go to. I think my max is 60 for suppressor prints. I have calibrated flow, no issues there. I am drying for 10 hours at 100C before printing, then printing from the dryer running at 100C for the duration. I did anneal as per the manufacturer spec (another 10 hours at 100C, though on the annealing setting instead of the drying one). I am printing a central spool holder now in pieces, as I have had quite a few issues with the spool twisting at last 50 or so meters of material on the spool and causing modern art. The print spool insert is in many part batches/plates and relatively small in material use, so it's a little less material risk as I try to get the settings dialed in, and a PA6-CF spool holder should last forever no matter how hot I run the dryer. A spindle to lock it in place is a very good idea. I was just going to have another spool in there (as it's a sunlu e2 2-spool unit) but a custom spindle might be better. I might just print some rings or studs that slip over the normal spindle for this holder and epoxy them in place at the right points. What printer are you using? I run my PA6 at around 30mm/s for maximum strength. Supports can be printed faster to reduce print time a little. Do you have a link to the spool holder you're making? If I find the time I might end up designing one for the E2. The spindle I designed is custom made to fit Fiberon spools specifically but I could redesign it to accommodate a wider range of internal diameters and spool widths and then I could upload it. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7385579 It is made for a single 3kg spool and will need dividers added to the spindle (or another spool on there) to keep the 1kg spool in place, but it's a good starting point. I'll print the spindle last and mess around with it a bit to get a good fit (in diameter and in spacing of the dividers I'll add) on the fiberon spools I'm using. |
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Originally Posted By Blob: I would definitely up the nozzle temp to 300 if you can. You could go higher but supposedly nylon will start degrading above that temp. I haven't seen any research indicating that's the case but I also haven't gone looking for it. Get your chamber as hot as you can. It will promote layer adhesion and reduce warping. I am using prusas satin sheet without glue and it has been very reliable for me. Vision Miner's nano polymer adhesive is supposed to be the bee's knees. It is available on Amazon. What are your current print speeds? Have you calibrated flow? Are you drying the material hot enough beforehand? Did you anneal after printing? All of these factors are hugely critical for suppressors and you don't want to skimp on any of them. I have had so many issues printing with spools just sitting on top of rollers that I have gone back to exclusively supporting the spool through the center hole. It is far more reliable IME and all of my problems disappeared when I went back to center hole support. I am using a sunlu S4 to feed during the print using an internal roller bearing assembly I found on printables and I designed some custom spindles to support the spool and lock it in place perfectly so it has zero wobble even when the rigid filament is trying to kick it off center. It works great. I'd be happy to share if you wanted it. Interesting that some problems can be attributed to how the spool is supported. I have an E2 dryer, will your design fit in that? |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: Interesting that some problems can be attributed to how the spool is supported. I have an E2 dryer, will your design fit in that? Originally Posted By mvintx: Originally Posted By Blob: I would definitely up the nozzle temp to 300 if you can. You could go higher but supposedly nylon will start degrading above that temp. I haven't seen any research indicating that's the case but I also haven't gone looking for it. Get your chamber as hot as you can. It will promote layer adhesion and reduce warping. I am using prusas satin sheet without glue and it has been very reliable for me. Vision Miner's nano polymer adhesive is supposed to be the bee's knees. It is available on Amazon. What are your current print speeds? Have you calibrated flow? Are you drying the material hot enough beforehand? Did you anneal after printing? All of these factors are hugely critical for suppressors and you don't want to skimp on any of them. I have had so many issues printing with spools just sitting on top of rollers that I have gone back to exclusively supporting the spool through the center hole. It is far more reliable IME and all of my problems disappeared when I went back to center hole support. I am using a sunlu S4 to feed during the print using an internal roller bearing assembly I found on printables and I designed some custom spindles to support the spool and lock it in place perfectly so it has zero wobble even when the rigid filament is trying to kick it off center. It works great. I'd be happy to share if you wanted it. Interesting that some problems can be attributed to how the spool is supported. I have an E2 dryer, will your design fit in that? |
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Originally Posted By CFletch: wow, slowing down to 30mm/s pushes the print time of the 9mm Flow up to 44 hours. If it works, it works, but damn. 44 hours? The FTN5 PCC 9mm flow takes 27 hours on my H2D at Blob's suggested speeds with a .6 nozzle. My filament is calibrated except for the pressure advance which I'm having trouble figuring out. |
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Originally Posted By CFletch: the 2-spool unit? That's what I have. I can share my modified one if it works well, though it sounds like Blob has a lot more experience with this stuff than me. This is what I'm printing now (and will modify the spool to work better with 1kg fiberon rolls) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7385579 Dang! Why does this 3D printing thing keep getting more and more complicated??? Thanks for that link. Looks like it will work OK. What did you print it out of, maybe ABS or ASA? I've got some Bambu ABS GF. |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: Dang! Why does this 3D printing thing keep getting more and more complicated??? Thanks for that link. Looks like it will work OK. What did you print it out of, maybe ABS or ASA? I've got some Bambu ABS GF. Originally Posted By mvintx: Originally Posted By CFletch: the 2-spool unit? That's what I have. I can share my modified one if it works well, though it sounds like Blob has a lot more experience with this stuff than me. This is what I'm printing now (and will modify the spool to work better with 1kg fiberon rolls) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7385579 Dang! Why does this 3D printing thing keep getting more and more complicated??? Thanks for that link. Looks like it will work OK. What did you print it out of, maybe ABS or ASA? I've got some Bambu ABS GF. Happy note, the first plate of the spool holder printed well with the settings recommended above (50C plate, 50C chamber, 300C nozzle). So those seem to be working. |
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Originally Posted By CFletch: Qidi Q2. I'll try slowing it down to 30 max for the next can. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7385579 It is made for a single 3kg spool and will need dividers added to the spindle (or another spool on there) to keep the 1kg spool in place, but it's a good starting point. I'll print the spindle last and mess around with it a bit to get a good fit (in diameter and in spacing of the dividers I'll add) on the fiberon spools I'm using. Cool that looks pretty good. I can definitely whip up a spindle if you aren't able to. I've found that if the spool isn't constrained from rotating like this then it still has the potential to bind against the spindle and cause the extruder gears to grind the filament and then stop feeding. I accomplished this by wedging the spool against a taper and then threading on a tapered cap to secure it. This also allows the spindle to rotate on the bearing much more smoothly and freely than just the cardboard dragging directly against the spindle. Attached File Attached File |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: 44 hours? The FTN5 PCC 9mm flow takes 27 hours on my H2D at Blob's suggested speeds with a .6 nozzle. My filament is calibrated except for the pressure advance which I'm having trouble figuring out. Originally Posted By mvintx: Originally Posted By CFletch: wow, slowing down to 30mm/s pushes the print time of the 9mm Flow up to 44 hours. If it works, it works, but damn. 44 hours? The FTN5 PCC 9mm flow takes 27 hours on my H2D at Blob's suggested speeds with a .6 nozzle. My filament is calibrated except for the pressure advance which I'm having trouble figuring out. |
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Originally Posted By Blob: Cool that looks pretty good. I can definitely whip up a spindle if you aren't able to. I've found that if the spool isn't constrained from rotating like this then it still has the potential to bind against the spindle and cause the extruder gears to grind the filament and then stop feeding. I accomplished this by wedging the spool against a taper and then threading on a tapered cap to secure it. This also allows the spindle to rotate on the bearing much more smoothly and freely than just the cardboard dragging directly against the spindle. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/160722/1000020824_jpg-3801871.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/160722/1000020825_jpg-3801872.JPG Originally Posted By Blob: Originally Posted By CFletch: Qidi Q2. I'll try slowing it down to 30 max for the next can. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7385579 It is made for a single 3kg spool and will need dividers added to the spindle (or another spool on there) to keep the 1kg spool in place, but it's a good starting point. I'll print the spindle last and mess around with it a bit to get a good fit (in diameter and in spacing of the dividers I'll add) on the fiberon spools I'm using. Cool that looks pretty good. I can definitely whip up a spindle if you aren't able to. I've found that if the spool isn't constrained from rotating like this then it still has the potential to bind against the spindle and cause the extruder gears to grind the filament and then stop feeding. I accomplished this by wedging the spool against a taper and then threading on a tapered cap to secure it. This also allows the spindle to rotate on the bearing much more smoothly and freely than just the cardboard dragging directly against the spindle. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/160722/1000020824_jpg-3801871.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/160722/1000020825_jpg-3801872.JPG I'll let you know how my attempt works. I think the overall spool holder is good and only the spindle will need tweaked, and I can do a few attempts at the spindle without wasting too much material since I'm printing the holder at .24 draft settings (with 2 walls and 15% infill), since it shouldn't need to be all that strong. |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: Interesting that some problems can be attributed to how the spool is supported. I have an E2 dryer, will your design fit in that? The one I'm using is for an S4 so it won't fit the E2, but the one linked above looks like a pretty solid design so I'd just use that. I will design a better spindle for it though. I have my extruder gear tension set pretty low to reduce the tendency to snap the rigid filament due to the small bend radius around the gear set. If the spool binds and drags then the gears will just slip over the filament and grind it down and won't be able to feed anymore. I am not familiar with bambus extruder gear design so maybe this is not an issue for your printer. |
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Originally Posted By CFletch: that looks damn solid, nice I'll let you know how my attempt works. I think the overall spool holder is good and only the spindle will need tweaked, and I can do a few attempts at the spindle without wasting too much material since I'm printing the holder at .24 draft settings (with 2 walls and 15% infill), since it shouldn't need to be all that strong. I would prototype the spindle out of pla until the design and fit is good. |
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Originally Posted By Blob: The one I'm using is for an S4 so it won't fit the E2, but the one linked above looks like a pretty solid design so I'd just use that. I will design a better soi for for it though. I have my extruder gear tension set pretty low to reduce the tendency to snap the rigid filament due to the small bend radius around the gear set. If the spool binds and drags then the gears will just slip over the filament and grind it down and won't be able to feed anymore. I am not familiar with bambus extruder gear design so maybe this is not an issue for your printer. Originally Posted By Blob: Originally Posted By mvintx: Interesting that some problems can be attributed to how the spool is supported. I have an E2 dryer, will your design fit in that? The one I'm using is for an S4 so it won't fit the E2, but the one linked above looks like a pretty solid design so I'd just use that. I will design a better soi for for it though. I have my extruder gear tension set pretty low to reduce the tendency to snap the rigid filament due to the small bend radius around the gear set. If the spool binds and drags then the gears will just slip over the filament and grind it down and won't be able to feed anymore. I am not familiar with bambus extruder gear design so maybe this is not an issue for your printer. |
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Originally Posted By Blob: I would prototype the spindle out of pla until the design and fit is good. Originally Posted By Blob: Originally Posted By CFletch: that looks damn solid, nice I'll let you know how my attempt works. I think the overall spool holder is good and only the spindle will need tweaked, and I can do a few attempts at the spindle without wasting too much material since I'm printing the holder at .24 draft settings (with 2 walls and 15% infill), since it shouldn't need to be all that strong. I would prototype the spindle out of pla until the design and fit is good. |
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Originally Posted By CFletch: I added a large "hat" topper to my printer to raise the top about 2-3", which allows the filament line to enter the head at a more vertical angle without as much of a drastic bend. I've had no snapping/grinding issues yet except when the spool twists and binds. Which only happens when the spool is almost empty, and the spool holder should fix that issue. My snapping happens directly inside the extruder itself. There is a large drive gear and two smaller idlers that force the filament to bend sharply. I modified the extruder to use a single idler which helps a lot but too much tension will still cause some problems. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By Blob: My snapping happens directly inside the extruder itself. There is a large drive gear and two smaller idlers that force the filament to bend sharply. I modified the extruder to use a single idler which helps a lot but too much tension will still cause some problems. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/160722/1000020826_jpg-3801879.JPG Originally Posted By Blob: Originally Posted By CFletch: I added a large "hat" topper to my printer to raise the top about 2-3", which allows the filament line to enter the head at a more vertical angle without as much of a drastic bend. I've had no snapping/grinding issues yet except when the spool twists and binds. Which only happens when the spool is almost empty, and the spool holder should fix that issue. My snapping happens directly inside the extruder itself. There is a large drive gear and two smaller idlers that force the filament to bend sharply. I modified the extruder to use a single idler which helps a lot but too much tension will still cause some problems. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/160722/1000020826_jpg-3801879.JPG |
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Originally Posted By CFletch: It's really easy. You will need the following info: -stock picture of the printer, from the manufacturer's site, in jpg format -stock picture of the roll of filament you plan to use, from the site you expect to buy it from -a fingerprint file in .eft format -passport-style photo of your face (you can use your phone like I did, just get the distance and angle right, and no glasses or hat) -for details on the design/how you plan to make it, put only "IT WILL BE MADE USING ADDITIVE MANUFACTURING USING A [make+model] 3D PRINTER AND PA6-CF FILAMENT." If you use a different filament for some reason, put that instead of PA6-CF. Do not provide any further detail on the plan, file, or anything else. -for reason, "ALL LAWFUL PURPOSES" -you'll need the name and official contact info for your local Sheriff, which you can get off their website. It's a very easy form. I felt silly after doing my first one for thinking it'd be a much bigger deal than it was. Originally Posted By CFletch: Originally Posted By imq707s: Getting ready to go a couple Form1's soon so I can start printing out some suppressors (assuming approval). Any good videos out there you guys could suggest that goes through the whole process for filling out the online forms step by step? I just want to make sure I don't screw someone up and have them rejected. Thanks! -stock picture of the printer, from the manufacturer's site, in jpg format -stock picture of the roll of filament you plan to use, from the site you expect to buy it from -a fingerprint file in .eft format -passport-style photo of your face (you can use your phone like I did, just get the distance and angle right, and no glasses or hat) -for details on the design/how you plan to make it, put only "IT WILL BE MADE USING ADDITIVE MANUFACTURING USING A [make+model] 3D PRINTER AND PA6-CF FILAMENT." If you use a different filament for some reason, put that instead of PA6-CF. Do not provide any further detail on the plan, file, or anything else. -for reason, "ALL LAWFUL PURPOSES" -you'll need the name and official contact info for your local Sheriff, which you can get off their website. It's a very easy form. I felt silly after doing my first one for thinking it'd be a much bigger deal than it was. Awesome! Thanks. I have everything I need...just need to get online I fill out a few forms. 
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Originally Posted By mvintx: Look at a couple of these. There is some nuance to navigating around Eforms and how to fill out a Form 1. PM me if you have other questions and I'll try to help. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=eforms+form+1 Originally Posted By mvintx: Originally Posted By imq707s: Getting ready to go a couple Form1's soon so I can start printing out some suppressors (assuming approval). Any good videos out there you guys could suggest that goes through the whole process for filling out the online forms step by step? I just want to make sure I don't screw someone up and have them rejected. Thanks! Look at a couple of these. There is some nuance to navigating around Eforms and how to fill out a Form 1. PM me if you have other questions and I'll try to help. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=eforms+form+1 I've seen this one before....he walks you through everything step by step! Thanks!  Filing Your First Suppressor Form 1? Here's How - ATF eForms Tutorial |
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anyone happen to have some Fiberon spools on hand to measure the inside diameter of the spool where the spindle would go through? I only have Polymaker rolls (who also make Fiberon) except for the roll that's printing, and I can't take that roll out of the dryer anytime soon to measure it. My Polymaker rolls all have 55mm wide holes. Given that Fiberon spools are cardboard and the spool holder I am making has the spindle rotate on bearings, I think I might be able to make life easier for myself if I get a really close fit spindle, and then force the roll on, and then I won't need to worry about spacers/dividers/wedging holders. |
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I use geeetech glue sticks off amazon, very cheap 6 pack for under $12) and they work great and i have never had a failed print using them ( asa, abs, pa6 ect). i have been printing a lot of the PA6-GF from Jayo and been working great ( just picked up 4 one kg rolls of their pa6-gf for $86 shipped. When i put it in my ams-ht i load it as bambu brand pa6 and use the settings it automatically syncs the print temp settings, never an issue, perfect everytime. |
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Originally Posted By cmandak: I use geeetech glue sticks off amazon, very cheap 6 pack for under $12) and they work great and i have never had a failed print using them ( asa, abs, pa6 ect). i have been printing a lot of the PA6-GF from Jayo and been working great ( just picked up 4 one kg rolls of their pa6-gf for $86 shipped. When i put it in my ams-ht i load it as bambu brand pa6 and use the settings it automatically syncs the print temp settings, never an issue, perfect everytime. Geetech, eh? Thanks, I'll have to try them. |
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Originally Posted By CFletch: anyone happen to have some Fiberon spools on hand to measure the inside diameter of the spool where the spindle would go through? I only have Polymaker rolls (who also make Fiberon) except for the roll that's printing, and I can't take that roll out of the dryer anytime soon to measure it. My Polymaker rolls all have 55mm wide holes. Given that Fiberon spools are cardboard and the spool holder I am making has the spindle rotate on bearings, I think I might be able to make life easier for myself if I get a really close fit spindle, and then force the roll on, and then I won't need to worry about spacers/dividers/wedging holders. https://wiki.polymaker.com/polymaker-products/about-polymaker/polymaker-faq Attached File |
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This is the spindle I designed for my S4. It works beautifully and could easily be adapted to the E2 holder. I made it with a 100 degree thread form so there is zero overhang on the threads during printing so they come out perfectly clean and thread together nicely. Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Originally Posted By CFletch: awesome. I'll go with 55.1mm, since it'll shrink a bit after cooling and the cardboard should have a little give to it. That'll give a nice snug fit. I just printed the cylinder in PLA and a 55.1 diameter. It measures 55.02mm and it is a snug fit. It has to be twisted into the spool. I like what Blob has done but that capability is beyond me. I'm still waiting for my Solidworks subscription to be authorized. |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: I just printed the cylinder in PLA and a 55.1 diameter. It measures 55.02mm and it is a snug fit. It has to be twisted into the spool. I like what Blob has done but that capability is beyond me. I'm still waiting for my Solidworks subscription to be authorized. If you notice the tolerance on their chart you'll see it's +/- 1mm. The one I just grabbed off the shelf measured 55.4mm, which is where the taper comes in to play to compensate for different diameters. |
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Originally Posted By Blob: If you notice the tolerance on their chart you'll see it's +/- 1mm. The one I just grabbed off the shelf measured 55.4mm, which is where the taper comes in to play to compensate for different diameters. Yep, I think your design is the best way to skin this cat. Got my Solidworks authorization but now I find out I can't run it on a Mac unless I do a virtual Windows OS. Nothing like throwing $20 away. |
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Well, the spindle didn't work. I feel very dumb. I printed a 55.1mm spindle but didn't consider that it wouldn't fit in the holder made for the original 50mm one. @Blob if you'd adapt your adjustable spindle to the E2 holder, I'd be very grateful. |
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Originally Posted By CFletch: Well, the spindle didn't work. I feel very dumb. I printed a 55.1mm spindle but didn't consider that it wouldn't fit in the holder made for the original 50mm one. @Blob if you'd adapt your adjustable spindle to the E2 holder, I'd be very grateful. I got to looking at it this evening. Having a single spindle with two spools attached would not allow simultaneous feeding of both. There would need to be two separate spindles which means you'd need a center support and two more pairs of bearings to allow each spool to spin independently. I don't think I'm going to have the time to redesign the holder at least for a couple weeks, but I could modify my current spindle to accept a single spool if you'd like, but I won't be able to until tomorrow evening. |
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Originally Posted By Blob: I got to looking at it this evening. Having a single spindle with two spools attached would not allow simultaneous feeding of both. There would need to be two separate spindles which means you'd need a center support and two more pairs of bearings to allow each spool to spin independently. I don't think I'm going to have the time to redesign the holder at least for a couple weeks, but I could modify my current spindle to accept a single spool if you'd like, but I won't be able to until tomorrow evening. Originally Posted By Blob: Originally Posted By CFletch: Well, the spindle didn't work. I feel very dumb. I printed a 55.1mm spindle but didn't consider that it wouldn't fit in the holder made for the original 50mm one. @Blob if you'd adapt your adjustable spindle to the E2 holder, I'd be very grateful. I got to looking at it this evening. Having a single spindle with two spools attached would not allow simultaneous feeding of both. There would need to be two separate spindles which means you'd need a center support and two more pairs of bearings to allow each spool to spin independently. I don't think I'm going to have the time to redesign the holder at least for a couple weeks, but I could modify my current spindle to accept a single spool if you'd like, but I won't be able to until tomorrow evening. No rush. I'm going to attempt the can again with the settings that seem to be working (50C bed, 50C chamber, 300C nozzle, freshly cleaned plate) and that'll take 40+ hours due to the smaller 0.4 nozzle and slow print speed. The spool issues only seem to crop up when it's almost empty, which this print shouldn't get it anywhere near. |
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Originally Posted By CFletch: A single spool spindle would be amazing. I never do multi-filament prints so the 2nd spool is just in there to keep dry (if one is in there at all). No rush. I'm going to attempt the can again with the settings that seem to be working (50C bed, 50C chamber, 300C nozzle, freshly cleaned plate) and that'll take 40+ hours due to the smaller 0.4 nozzle and slow print speed. The spool issues only seem to crop up when it's almost empty, which this print shouldn't get it anywhere near. Originally Posted By CFletch: Originally Posted By Blob: Originally Posted By CFletch: Well, the spindle didn't work. I feel very dumb. I printed a 55.1mm spindle but didn't consider that it wouldn't fit in the holder made for the original 50mm one. @Blob if you'd adapt your adjustable spindle to the E2 holder, I'd be very grateful. I got to looking at it this evening. Having a single spindle with two spools attached would not allow simultaneous feeding of both. There would need to be two separate spindles which means you'd need a center support and two more pairs of bearings to allow each spool to spin independently. I don't think I'm going to have the time to redesign the holder at least for a couple weeks, but I could modify my current spindle to accept a single spool if you'd like, but I won't be able to until tomorrow evening. No rush. I'm going to attempt the can again with the settings that seem to be working (50C bed, 50C chamber, 300C nozzle, freshly cleaned plate) and that'll take 40+ hours due to the smaller 0.4 nozzle and slow print speed. The spool issues only seem to crop up when it's almost empty, which this print shouldn't get it anywhere near. I also would be very appreciative for your efforts. |
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Originally Posted By CFletch: Well, the spindle didn't work. I feel very dumb. I printed a 55.1mm spindle but didn't consider that it wouldn't fit in the holder made for the original 50mm one. @Blob if you'd adapt your adjustable spindle to the E2 holder, I'd be very grateful. LOL, you're not alone. I only printed a short section of the spindle for fitting but I did not think about it not fitting in the holder until I saw your post. Two more useless pieces into the trash can...  |
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@CFletch Looking at the spindle: The roller that you downloaded uses a 50mm spindle. Mine is originally 35mm. If I make mine flare out to 50mm diameter then there will not be enough meat for the threads since the spool ID is too close in size. There are two options: 1) Add a third part (Part C) that threads into the spindle and keeps the 50mm diameter. This will keep the centerline of the assembly the same, but will be annoying to assemble because there will be an extra part to mess with every time you change spools. 2) Keep the 35mm diameter all the way down the length. Since I haven't printed the roller assembly I'm not sure if dropping the centerline will still allow for the spools to fit. I'm guessing it will since it's only a change of 7.5mm but I'd like to be sure first. Attached File |
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Started my FTN4.5 PCC print and it doesn't look great. Lot's of filament pieces scattered around the bed and the details of the baffles aren't as clean as I think they should be. The ASA I'm using for the support interface looks good, no loose pieces like the PA6CF is doing. Searching the web tells me it could be the retraction speed and/or length. Filament is dry, flow ratio has been calibrated, haven't figured out how to do the pressure advance yet. Anybody care to share what they're using for their retraction settings? Bambu Wiki suggests a length of .8 and a speed of 30 but I don't want to just plug those numbers in without some more testing. I'm not going to waste any more filament on this...finger poised above the cancel button. Pic to follow. 
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Originally Posted By Blob: @CFletch Looking at the spindle: The roller that you downloaded uses a 50mm spindle. Mine is originally 35mm. If I make mine flare out to 50mm diameter then there will not be enough meat for the threads since the spool ID is too close in size. There are two options: 1) Add a third part (Part C) that threads into the spindle and keeps the 50mm diameter. This will keep the centerline of the assembly the same, but will be annoying to assemble because there will be an extra part to mess with every time you change spools. 2) Keep the 35mm diameter all the way down the length. Since I haven't printed the roller assembly I'm not sure if dropping the centerline will still allow for the spools to fit. I'm guessing it will since it's only a change of 7.5mm but I'd like to be sure first. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/160722/Screenshot_2026-07-28_175428_jpg-3802505.JPG I'm not thinking right, that'd make it impossible to get a spool on or off due to the threaded-on holder part. |
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@Blob Actually, keeping the 35mm width looks like it'd work. See this: Attached File Attached File What do you think? |
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This is where the spool sits on the stock rollers Attached File The spindle holder raises it about 30mm over where it sits stock, so a 35mm spindle should leave plenty of room above and below the spool. I'm not sure if that was a concern of yours but I figured I'd give as much info as I can think of. |
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Originally Posted By Blob: I kept the spool offset to line up with the ports. LMK if you think it'd be better with it centered. https://www.printables.com/model/1794095-fiberon-e2-spindles I'll print this after my current print ends, which should be tomorrow afternoon if it doesn't fail overnight for some reason. I'll let you know how it goes. Any recommendations for layer height with PA6? I've been printing cans at 0.15mm but the other parts of the spool holder turned out fine at 0.24mm draft. I assume 0.24mm would be too large a layer height for the threads, though. |
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