Food for though for guys running the PW auto drives,
And yes, most of these ideals have been borrowed/stolen from others designs.

1. Feed sorter jam sensor.    Granted that is does not need to be wired into the motor to kill it if you have a problem, but at least wire it into the contact switch so if you get a jam in the sorter section, the hopper will not keep running to just spray brass all over the machine and bench, or bad enough to jam the plate and kill the motor instead.
Note, still trying to come up with a sensor design that will stop the plate if the jam is in the hopper itself (not later in the sorter), isntead of the motor burning out due that kind of jam. Also, would like to come up with a optice sensor for the primer slide as well.  That way, if the primer slider fails to pick up a primer from the tube, it shuts the machine down, isntead of dropping powder into a primerless case(s) and just making a mess instead.

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c2r-eZY_BdE[/youtube]


2. Case sensor at the bottom of the case drop tube.   Here, even if the hopper sort jams up and does not turn back on, the machine will still run the cases in the tube before it shuts the drive off so the machine is not just cycling dry until you get around to turning it off isntead.
There are a couple of ways of doing this, such at just mimicking the mr bullet type contact for the bullet tube at the bottom of the case feed tube, or you can just install a small optic or proximity  sensor on top of the case feeder  ram plate instead.
Note, if you wire in a toggle switch for this contact switch (or just unplug it), you can just turn the sensor off, and it will allow you to reload the rest of the cases in the machine to run the machine dry.

3. Since I run a Hornady sizer with collet retained decapping pin, then I run a contact switch over the top of the pin isntead.   If the decapper runs into problems, then it will shove the decapping pin up to engage the contact switch an shut off the drive.  If you want to go high tech instead, then your into the Mk 7 spent primer detector instead.


4. Ringer detection at the swager.   Here, my top swage support tool is a collet type rod like the Hornady sizer die, and if the swager runs into a ringer, or even a primer hanger that is still in the pocket, it will shove the top tool rod up against a contact switch to kill the motor.  If you want to go high tech, then think in the lines of the Mk7 ringer detector instead.

5. Low primer tube detector.  Lets face it, the machine already comes with a system, so it just a mater of picking up the contacts in it, and tying it back into the motor.

6.  Low powder in the powder dispenser.  Dillon already sells one of these that you can use for the contact points, or you can just make one up of your own instead.

7, Powder check sensor, and again, Dillon already makes one of these that you can use the contacts to kill the motor, or you can make one of your own.

8. Bullet feed sensor, and the easy way to do this is to just install a second contact switch into the lower section of the drop tube.  Hence the top drop tube contact sensor is used to control the bullet feed hopper, and if the hopper goes dry, then you want to kill the motor before you loose too much weight on the  bullet drop tube assembly (before the lower tube gets low of bullets),and its not weight driving  the last bullets correctly into the cases instead.


Now since we are just using standard contacts, all this is a snap to wire to kill the motor if any of the sensors goes off.
Using a standard 30amp SPST latching relay, your going to wire the motor through NC section of the relay, and via a standard 12V wall wart, your going to wire all the sensors through it to the coil side of the relay.  Hence any of the contacts trigger, it will energize the relay to latch it the other way and kill power to the motor.  To reset the relay after you have correct the problem, just reverse the current through the lathe with a push button switch to reset the relay back into motor working state again.
If you really want to get fancy, then you can make a block with LEDS that are wired after the contacts as well a toggle switch to turn each contact off indepently, and will tell you just which contact triggered to shut the motor off.
Also to point out, the PW system does have clutch system in it, and if it set correctly, will save the motor from crashes if the drive continues to run (have not wired in a over load circuit into the drive system to stop the drive  that was during a crash isntead).


As for the PW drive, it does have one thing going for it over just cost alone with simple contact sensors, and that is the normal ramp down speeds of the arm system at the top and bottom of the stroke.  The motor is only running at 900rpm,and if you are just reloading pistol, you can make the motor run faster isntead.  I bring this up, since even with a Mk7 pro running top speeds, by the time you adjust the index and bottom of stroke to keep from making a mess with say rifle cases, the reload speed has dropped way down instead.

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GQXUpX6Lo38[/youtube]


And before anyone thinks that I'm slamming the Mk7, I'm not since its a great system for someone wanting a store bought solution instead (at the tune of about 3K with all the sensors in play).  I love the electric clutch system on machine, and in fact so much, If it will stop a 650 from blowing up a primer on a bad insert to take the primer assembly out, may even pick up a 650 and run a Mk7 pro drive on it. Hell, even if I can not add in my standard sensor to the  software systems main controller to get feedback on the screen to tell me the actual problem of why the drive stopped from one of my added sensors, I can still tie my own sensors into items like the low primer sensor to stop the motor that way isntead. Right up front with a Mk7pro drive and 650, your saving about $2 grand over Mk7 and 1050 to begin with, and then think of the cost savings on tool heads and conversion kits as well.  

But again, the reason that you don't normally run an auto drive on a 650, is because it's too easy to blow a primer assembly up on that machine (even when cycling it by hand). So if Mk7 electric clutch is sensitive enough to detect a primer feed problem into the case pocket and stop the machine before it blows a primer (chain reaction through the system to blow the primers in the tube as well), may be the solution that is needed to be able to run a 650 full auto with an auto drive instead.

That's a beautiful storage rack djryan13.