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Posted: 4/23/2016 2:21:24 AM EDT
[#1]
Sounds like the inside of the primer tube is dirty if primers don't freely drop down?
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Posted: 4/23/2016 3:45:44 AM EDT
[#2]
Did You switch to different primers? Seems odd that it would hit both machines at the same time.
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Posted: 4/23/2016 4:46:30 AM EDT
[#3]
Was happening to me this week. My slide area was gummy so it didnt slide all the way back. Make sure the lever is getting the slide all the way back. Cleaned it all and I was running again.
Definitely clean inside of tube. The maintenace kit comes with pipe cleaners... hint hint |
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Posted: 4/23/2016 7:25:57 AM EDT
[#4]
CCI primers? They are known to be out of round. Dillon recommends not using them. |
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Posted: 4/23/2016 7:59:22 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
CCI primers? They are known to be out of round. Dillon recommends not using them. CCI's were binding in my 550 primer's tube every so often. Switched to Winchester primers and haven't had a problem. |
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Posted: 4/23/2016 7:59:53 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
CCI primers? They are known to be out of round. Dillon recommends not using them. Really? I've run lots of CCI primers with no issue, in a 550 and SDB tho. I'd pull that primer tube and clean it up. |
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Posted: 4/23/2016 8:43:36 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted: CCI's were binding in my 550 primer's tube every so often. Switched to Winchester primers and haven't had a problem. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: CCI primers? They are known to be out of round. Dillon recommends not using them. CCI's were binding in my 550 primer's tube every so often. Switched to Winchester primers and haven't had a problem. Just remember- don't force 'em. http://www.ar15.com/archive/topic.html?b=6&f=42&t=316460 |
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Posted: 4/23/2016 10:26:39 AM EDT
[#8]
Clean out the tube with acetone and also clean out where the primer slide lives.
Change out the primer tube to one from a 650. The 650 tube has a brass tip instead of the plastic one. No more primer issues. |
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Posted: 4/23/2016 11:12:03 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just remember- don't force 'em. http://www.ar15.com/archive/topic.html?b=6&f=42&t=316460 Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
CCI primers? They are known to be out of round. Dillon recommends not using them. CCI's were binding in my 550 primer's tube every so often. Switched to Winchester primers and haven't had a problem. Just remember- don't force 'em. http://www.ar15.com/archive/topic.html?b=6&f=42&t=316460 Ouch. I've never had them stuck in the tube to that degree. Usually, the primer slide will fail to pick up a primer and raising the ram again results in picking up a primer. I've only had that happen with CCI primers. I bought a lot of S&B primers when they were on sale at Cabelas' a while back. I hope they work with the Dillon. |
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Posted: 4/23/2016 11:41:40 AM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Ouch. I've never had them stuck in the tube to that degree. Usually, the primer slide will fail to pick up a primer and raising the ram again results in picking up a primer. I've only had that happen with CCI primers. I bought a lot of S&B primers when they were on sale at Cabelas' a while back. I hope they work with the Dillon. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
CCI primers? They are known to be out of round. Dillon recommends not using them. CCI's were binding in my 550 primer's tube every so often. Switched to Winchester primers and haven't had a problem. Just remember- don't force 'em. http://www.ar15.com/archive/topic.html?b=6&f=42&t=316460 Ouch. I've never had them stuck in the tube to that degree. Usually, the primer slide will fail to pick up a primer and raising the ram again results in picking up a primer. I've only had that happen with CCI primers. I bought a lot of S&B primers when they were on sale at Cabelas' a while back. I hope they work with the Dillon. S&B runs great in mine |
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Posted: 4/23/2016 1:38:58 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just remember- don't force 'em. http://www.ar15.com/archive/topic.html?b=6&f=42&t=316460 Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
CCI primers? They are known to be out of round. Dillon recommends not using them. CCI's were binding in my 550 primer's tube every so often. Switched to Winchester primers and haven't had a problem. Just remember- don't force 'em. http://www.ar15.com/archive/topic.html?b=6&f=42&t=316460 Everyone who has a progressive should read that and thank dogsplat for having the fortitude to post it. Ow mommy and all 
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Posted: 4/23/2016 3:22:41 PM EDT
[#12]
Sounds like it just needs a good cleaning since it just started recently.
Also, I didn't see it mentioned but you can take a bullet (I think I'm using a lead .45) and set it on top of the primer rod (black plastic thingy) and then set a .45LC case on top of that. The case is long enough to cover the bullet and go onto the primer rod, holding it in place. The added weight helped me on my Dillons. |
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Posted: 4/23/2016 5:32:38 PM EDT
[#13]
I too was unaware that Dillon recommends against CCI.
That said, I clean my primer tubes every thousand (or so). Alcohol/pipe cleaner/compressed air I've never had one hang up, including many thousand CCI Edit: 550B... I'm not sure if the priming system is similar? |
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Posted: 4/23/2016 5:38:36 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I too was unaware that Dillon recommends against CCI. That said, I clean my primer tubes every thousand (or so). Alcohol/pipe cleaner/compressed air I've never had one hang up, including many thousand CCI Edit: 550B... I'm not sure if the priming system is similar? I use CCI but did have one get stuck in a 650 tube. Dillon sent me a new tube and told me that CCI had some inconsistent runs that were causing those problems. I still use CCI and haven't had a problem since, but it can/does happen. |
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Posted: 4/23/2016 6:08:21 PM EDT
[#15]
This has to be a troll. Dillon are always perfect.
What did you do within the last 2-4 weeks? Have you stripped the machines down and cleaned and oiled them, or has powder or such gotten into the works? Nothing messes up the priming system and the indexing system like powder/dirt not being cleaned up immediately. Check the rubber tube (slide roll pin sleeve 14990) on the primer slide assembly roll pin. Must be in perfect shape. Next, does the primer slide assembly actually slide easily back-and-forth? Does the slide actuating lever actually move back-and-forth completely and are the springs in good shape? You've covered it, but for others: The plastic primer cap must be in the groove (wiggle/rotate when sliding it it until it drops into groove) and you can NOT turn the magazine shield cap tight. Finger tight ONLY if more than enough, otherwise you distort the plastic cap. |
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Posted: 4/23/2016 7:58:51 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This has to be a troll. Dillon are always perfect.What did you do within the last 2-4 weeks? Have you stripped the machines down and cleaned and oiled them, or has powder or such gotten into the works? Nothing messes up the priming system and the indexing system like powder/dirt not being cleaned up immediately. Check the rubber tube (slide roll pin sleeve 14990) on the primer slide assembly roll pin. Must be in perfect shape. Next, does the primer slide assembly actually slide easily back-and-forth? Does the slide actuating lever actually move back-and-forth completely and are the springs in good shape? You've covered it, but for others: The plastic primer cap must be in the groove (wiggle/rotate when sliding it it until it drops into groove) and you can NOT turn the magazine shield cap tight. Finger tight ONLY if more than enough, otherwise you distort the plastic cap. Rubber tube is the only thing I've had give me problems with the priming set up . hit your LAPS and buy a foot of it , has anyone tried the piece made out of UHMW ? |
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Posted: 4/23/2016 8:52:10 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Rubber tube is the only thing I've had give me problems with the priming set up . hit your LAPS and buy a foot of it , has anyone tried the piece made out of UHMW ? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
This has to be a troll. Dillon are always perfect.What did you do within the last 2-4 weeks? Have you stripped the machines down and cleaned and oiled them, or has powder or such gotten into the works? Nothing messes up the priming system and the indexing system like powder/dirt not being cleaned up immediately. Check the rubber tube (slide roll pin sleeve 14990) on the primer slide assembly roll pin. Must be in perfect shape. Next, does the primer slide assembly actually slide easily back-and-forth? Does the slide actuating lever actually move back-and-forth completely and are the springs in good shape? You've covered it, but for others: The plastic primer cap must be in the groove (wiggle/rotate when sliding it it until it drops into groove) and you can NOT turn the magazine shield cap tight. Finger tight ONLY if more than enough, otherwise you distort the plastic cap. Rubber tube is the only thing I've had give me problems with the priming set up . hit your LAPS and buy a foot of it , has anyone tried the piece made out of UHMW ? I should have asked when I was there today. I know the new primer slides have threaded hole and a brass/bronze bushing and screw to hold it. Where the old ones only had a roll pin and the rubber tube. Since I found this out, I have wondered if I could remove the roll pin and thread the slide and buy the screw and bushing. Guess I will have to make some phone calls this week. |
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Posted: 4/23/2016 9:16:45 PM EDT
[#18]
I sort of fixed the problem by taping a bullet to the top of the black plastic plunger. You would think that with the 1050 costing $1800, it wouldn't need such fixes.
Primers are now seating, but a new problem has arisen: the primers sometime do not seat fully. It's weird. One problem solved, a new one pops up. Tomorrow, I am going to take it apart and clean the whole press. Edit: the little, tiny, rubber sleeve that is on the priming device is worn. Is this tubing material available at Lowes or Home Depot? What size is it? What is it called? Will replacing that rubber sleeve fix things? |
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Posted: 4/23/2016 9:49:12 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I sort of fixed the problem by taping a bullet to the top of the black plastic plunger. You would think that with the 1050 costing $1800, it wouldn't need such fixes. Primers are now seating, but a new problem has arisen: the primers sometime do not seat fully. It's weird. One problem solved, a new one pops up. Tomorrow, I am going to take it apart and clean the whole press. Edit: the little, tiny, rubber sleeve that is on the priming device is worn. Is this tubing material available at Lowes or Home Depot? What size is it? What is it called? Will replacing that rubber sleeve fix things? I get mine from LAPS , it's just a piece of 1/8" vacuum line |
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Posted: 4/24/2016 3:58:35 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I sort of fixed the problem by taping a bullet to the top of the black plastic plunger. You would think that with the 1050 costing $1800, it wouldn't need such fixes. Primers are now seating, but a new problem has arisen: the primers sometime do not seat fully. It's weird. One problem solved, a new one pops up. Tomorrow, I am going to take it apart and clean the whole press. Edit: the little, tiny, rubber sleeve that is on the priming device is worn. Is this tubing material available at Lowes or Home Depot? What size is it? What is it called? Will replacing that rubber sleeve fix things? Here are some tips for primer depth |
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Posted: 4/25/2016 10:19:13 PM EDT
[#21]
Ok, I have 6 Super 1050s at work. I loaded more on them than most people will load in their life! primer problems are intermittent and A PIA!!! So, here is what you do. First, get an empty 45 ACP case and put that on top of the follower rod.
Check your tip. I use a 30 Mauser or 7.62x25 pistol case to seat the tip STRAIGHT! Also check the inside of the primer drop tube to make sure it is clean. Clean the primer slide and the channel it rides in. Check the rubber on the slide. I use vacuum hose from NAPA. Works GREAT! And saves money. Make sure it is not torn up and extended past the slide...it will rub the channel and create misfeeds. Now to set up the operating arm. Pull the lever all the way down, so the slide is all the way in (under the shellplate). Loosen the clamp screw and slide the arm all the way down until it stops. Lift it 1/16 of an inch and make sure the arm is straight, tighten the clamp. Raise the handle and the end of the arm (the back corner) should be in the middle of the rubber on the slide....middle of the slot and middle of the bumper or just a hair below. Pull the lever down and back up and make sure there is no hang ups. If there is it will usually be just before the arm hits the primer tube shield base. Spot of grease on the pin at the back of the toolhead that actuates the primer arm is all the lube you need in this part of the machine. |
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Posted: 4/25/2016 10:19:49 PM EDT
[#22]
Next is setting the white case alignment tab. First take out the tab and check to make sure there is no groove worn into tab surface where it contacts the case rim.
Make sure it isn't warped from having the screw tightened down too tight!! Put a case in and run it to the priming station. Loosen the tab and slide it in until it touches the case rim. Slide it out about a millimeter away from the rim. Tighten the screw...but not too tight as it will bend the tab! Make sure the 2 screws for the primer tube and the screw in the back that holds the slide stop in place are tight. Also make sure the cap on top of the primer tube shield...the silver one that the primer alarm goes on is ONLY FINGER TIGHT! Too tight and you smash the tip..and you need a new tip. The critical adjustment is the white tab. I have had most of my problems solved with that adjustment. Good luck! |
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Posted: 4/25/2016 10:27:44 PM EDT
[#23]
Cliffspot,
What do you mean by this? 30 Mauser or 7.62x25 pistol case to seat the tip STRAIGHT What tip are you keeping straight? |
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Posted: 4/26/2016 9:30:25 AM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
CCI's were binding in my 550 primer's tube every so often. Switched to Winchester primers and haven't had a problem. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
CCI primers? They are known to be out of round. Dillon recommends not using them. CCI's were binding in my 550 primer's tube every so often. Switched to Winchester primers and haven't had a problem. Same issue. Did the same change. Same results. CCI to WSP. Resolved my issues. And no more FTF light primer strikes with my reduced weight striker springs on my competition pistol M&P's. |
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Posted: 4/26/2016 10:39:43 AM EDT
[#25]
I am feeling a little stupid but my primer slides never came with sleeves. That includes the small primer kit I purchased seperately. I have never gotten 100% perfect priming (miss one now an then). :( Could that be why? My slides just have a little black detent punched in it.
Maybe I need to stop by auto store today and check if anything gets better. Been running 2yrs without. I dont see them mentioned in manual. WTH??? |
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Posted: 4/26/2016 4:11:41 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I get mine from LAPS , it's just a piece of 1/8" vacuum line Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I sort of fixed the problem by taping a bullet to the top of the black plastic plunger. You would think that with the 1050 costing $1800, it wouldn't need such fixes. Primers are now seating, but a new problem has arisen: the primers sometime do not seat fully. It's weird. One problem solved, a new one pops up. Tomorrow, I am going to take it apart and clean the whole press. Edit: the little, tiny, rubber sleeve that is on the priming device is worn. Is this tubing material available at Lowes or Home Depot? What size is it? What is it called? Will replacing that rubber sleeve fix things? I get mine from LAPS , it's just a piece of 1/8" vacuum line Or can someone provide a link to where they purchased their 1/8 inch lining hose? What's LAPS?
I bought 1/8 inch vacuum lining hose off of Amazon, but the outside diameter is too large. I called Dillon, and the operator did not know the outside diameter. He only said it is 1/8. The problem is almost fixed. My guess is that I need the proper 1/8 inch vacuum lining hose. Thanks |
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Posted: 4/26/2016 4:39:37 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Does anyone know the outside diameter of the vacuum lining hose? Or can someone provide a link to where they purchased their 1/8 inch lining hose? What's LAPS? I bought 1/8 inch vacuum lining hose off of Amazon, but the outside diameter is too large. I called Dillon, and the operator did not know the outside diameter. He only said it is 1/8. The problem is almost fixed. My guess is that I need the proper 1/8 inch vacuum lining hose. Thanks Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I sort of fixed the problem by taping a bullet to the top of the black plastic plunger. You would think that with the 1050 costing $1800, it wouldn't need such fixes. Primers are now seating, but a new problem has arisen: the primers sometime do not seat fully. It's weird. One problem solved, a new one pops up. Tomorrow, I am going to take it apart and clean the whole press. Edit: the little, tiny, rubber sleeve that is on the priming device is worn. Is this tubing material available at Lowes or Home Depot? What size is it? What is it called? Will replacing that rubber sleeve fix things? I get mine from LAPS , it's just a piece of 1/8" vacuum line Or can someone provide a link to where they purchased their 1/8 inch lining hose? What's LAPS? I bought 1/8 inch vacuum lining hose off of Amazon, but the outside diameter is too large. I called Dillon, and the operator did not know the outside diameter. He only said it is 1/8. The problem is almost fixed. My guess is that I need the proper 1/8 inch vacuum lining hose. Thanks Dang acronym maker uppers.. ;) Guessing he means local auto parts store.. will stop by on way home to see what they got. |
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Posted: 4/26/2016 5:40:12 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Dang acronym maker uppers.. ;) Guessing he means local auto parts store.. will stop by on way home to see what they got. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I sort of fixed the problem by taping a bullet to the top of the black plastic plunger. You would think that with the 1050 costing $1800, it wouldn't need such fixes. Primers are now seating, but a new problem has arisen: the primers sometime do not seat fully. It's weird. One problem solved, a new one pops up. Tomorrow, I am going to take it apart and clean the whole press. Edit: the little, tiny, rubber sleeve that is on the priming device is worn. Is this tubing material available at Lowes or Home Depot? What size is it? What is it called? Will replacing that rubber sleeve fix things? I get mine from LAPS , it's just a piece of 1/8" vacuum line Or can someone provide a link to where they purchased their 1/8 inch lining hose? What's LAPS? I bought 1/8 inch vacuum lining hose off of Amazon, but the outside diameter is too large. I called Dillon, and the operator did not know the outside diameter. He only said it is 1/8. The problem is almost fixed. My guess is that I need the proper 1/8 inch vacuum lining hose. Thanks Dang acronym maker uppers.. ;) Guessing he means local auto parts store.. will stop by on way home to see what they got. yep Local auto parts store, might have clicked better using FLAPS ?, .220 ish is what I measure , Dillon part # 14990 |
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Posted: 4/26/2016 8:51:22 PM EDT
[#29]
Will someone kindly measure the length of the little rubber piece, if you have one laying around?
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Posted: 4/26/2016 9:04:10 PM EDT
[#30]
I just put it on the pin and trim with a razor blade,
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Posted: 4/30/2016 1:15:31 PM EDT
[#31]
After a week of fiddling, I finally have the primer system on all my presses running at 100% again.
The final key was that little rubber hose piece. Without the rubber hose piece, I was having problems with 1-3 missed primers per 100. I installed the rubber hose piece, and voila, all is fixed. Surprisingly, the rubber hose piece is very difficult to find. I ordered an 1/8 off Amazon that was too large of an outside diameter. Three auto parts stores and Lowes in town did not have the 1/8 size. One auto store had 7/64 (close because 1/8 is 8/64), but it fit and I've been using it with zero problems now. Contributors to this thread have been very help, and I appreciate all the help. Time to go throw some lead downrange! |
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Posted: 4/30/2016 5:05:21 PM EDT
[#32]
Glad to hear. The rubber hose i got at LAPS was a little too big in OD but stil seems to work for me. I am debating buying one of the Delrin ones from Level 10. If anyone has any experience with the one I am talking about, I would like to hear.
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Posted: 5/1/2016 9:55:11 AM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The critical adjustment is the white tab. I have had most of my problems solved with that adjustment. |
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Posted: 5/1/2016 12:36:37 PM EDT
[#34]
For everyone's edification, I thought "LAPS" meant "Los Angeles Police Supply" and I was wondering if it was supposed to be "LA Police Gear."
For a non-Dillon owner, can you explain or illustrate the parts that were giving you problems? I can find Dillon's diagrams online, but the descriptions people have been using have been...confusing? A priming system can only do so many things differently from any other priming system, and I'd like to learn how the 1050 is different. |
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Posted: 5/1/2016 1:53:50 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
For everyone's edification, I thought "LAPS" meant "Los Angeles Police Supply" and I was wondering if it was supposed to be "LA Police Gear."
For a non-Dillon owner, can you explain or illustrate the parts that were giving you problems? I can find Dillon's diagrams online, but the descriptions people have been using have been...confusing? A priming system can only do so many things differently from any other priming system, and I'd like to learn how the 1050 is different. You have a Hornady, right? Let me compare it to hornady... You know the roller mechanism on the primer slide? Well, the dillon slides dont need a roller but they do have a little pin like that where a lever arm pushes on it. For 2 yrs, I didnt know there were supposed to be rubber bushings on it. To be honest, I am not sure it matters all that much besides perhaps not pulling the slide back enough to pick up next primer (never had that issue myself). The next part in question (white piece people mentioned) is a little almost triangle shaped piece that acts just like the case retention spring on the Hornady. If the cases are not perfectly aligned in the shellplate, primers won't seat straight into the primer pocket. When I make a mistake and note primers crushed and slightly offset, its because that white piece isn't keeping the case in the shellplate. I actually dont have the white one anymore. I got the clear one on ebay and like it much better. I can actually see the primer in the slide before its seated (not that I look at all of them.. autodrive moves fast!). Hope that clears it up. Once its setup, its pretty near perfect. Unlikely my Hornady which for some reason couldnt seat a priner in new Starline brass to save its life... Although, other than Starline, i didnt have near as many problems as others.. You can see the Delrin version of rubber bushing here: Ebay |
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Posted: 5/1/2016 3:46:42 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You have a Hornady, right? Let me compare it to hornady... You know the roller mechanism on the primer slide? Well, the dillon slides dont need a roller but they do have a little pin like that where a lever arm pushes on it. For 2 yrs, I didnt know there were supposed to be rubber bushings on it. To be honest, I am not sure it matters all that much besides perhaps not pulling the slide back enough to pick up next primer (never had that issue myself). The next part in question (white piece people mentioned) is a little almost triangle shaped piece that acts just like the case retention spring on the Hornady. If the cases are not perfectly aligned in the shellplate, primers won't seat straight into the primer pocket. When I make a mistake and note primers crushed and slightly offset, its because that white piece isn't keeping the case in the shellplate. I actually dont have the white one anymore. I got the clear one on ebay and like it much better. I can actually see the primer in the slide before its seated (not that I look at all of them.. autodrive moves fast!). Hope that clears it up. Once its setup, its pretty near perfect. Unlikely my Hornady which for some reason couldnt seat a priner in new Starline brass to save its life... Although, other than Starline, i didnt have near as many problems as others.. You can see the Delrin version of rubber bushing here: Ebay Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
For everyone's edification, I thought "LAPS" meant "Los Angeles Police Supply" and I was wondering if it was supposed to be "LA Police Gear."
For a non-Dillon owner, can you explain or illustrate the parts that were giving you problems? I can find Dillon's diagrams online, but the descriptions people have been using have been...confusing? A priming system can only do so many things differently from any other priming system, and I'd like to learn how the 1050 is different. You have a Hornady, right? Let me compare it to hornady... You know the roller mechanism on the primer slide? Well, the dillon slides dont need a roller but they do have a little pin like that where a lever arm pushes on it. For 2 yrs, I didnt know there were supposed to be rubber bushings on it. To be honest, I am not sure it matters all that much besides perhaps not pulling the slide back enough to pick up next primer (never had that issue myself). The next part in question (white piece people mentioned) is a little almost triangle shaped piece that acts just like the case retention spring on the Hornady. If the cases are not perfectly aligned in the shellplate, primers won't seat straight into the primer pocket. When I make a mistake and note primers crushed and slightly offset, its because that white piece isn't keeping the case in the shellplate. I actually dont have the white one anymore. I got the clear one on ebay and like it much better. I can actually see the primer in the slide before its seated (not that I look at all of them.. autodrive moves fast!). Hope that clears it up. Once its setup, its pretty near perfect. Unlikely my Hornady which for some reason couldnt seat a priner in new Starline brass to save its life... Although, other than Starline, i didnt have near as many problems as others.. You can see the Delrin version of rubber bushing here: Ebay |
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Posted: 5/1/2016 10:01:44 PM EDT
[#37]
So I was doing some preventative care on one of my other 1050s. I took apart the priming system to clean and check the rubber hose piece.
This 1050 primer slide didn't have the rubber hose. Rather, the place where the rubber hose wouldn normally go has a brass colored metallic ring permanently in place of the rubber hose. I guess Dillon got sick of people calling in to replace the rubber hose and just redesigned the piece. Question... To assemble the white primer piece, should I place it in a way that the brass sits tightly in the station? What is optimal placement of the white tab? |
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Posted: 5/2/2016 8:21:47 PM EDT
[#38]
But...but......... arf says dillon is bestest at all things reloading, its BLUE and everything!
I kid, I kid. Primer systems seem to be the weak link in many if not all brands. Whether new or several yrs old, I'd start by cleaning the hell out of that system and then looking at the primers themselves. |
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Posted: 5/2/2016 8:59:58 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So I was doing some preventative care on one of my other 1050s. I took apart the priming system to clean and check the rubber hose piece. This 1050 primer slide didn't have the rubber hose. Rather, the place where the rubber hose wouldn normally go has a brass colored metallic ring permanently in place of the rubber hose. I guess Dillon got sick of people calling in to replace the rubber hose and just redesigned the piece. Question... To assemble the white primer piece, should I place it in a way that the brass sits tightly in the station? What is optimal placement of the white tab? I set mine so the case is very close to it but not touching. Just enough so that if case were to slide out a little, the white piece will reset it. Not tight that its touching. You dont want any drag on shellplate. |
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Posted: 5/2/2016 9:47:03 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
But...but......... arf says dillon is bestest at all things reloading, its BLUE and everything! I kid, I kid. Primer systems seem to be the weak link in many if not all brands. Whether new or several yrs old, I'd start by cleaning the hell out of that system and then looking at the primers themselves. I agree with this 100%, and not just with progressives. The only priming system I know of that's relatively problem free is RCBS's APS system, and that requires their proprietary strips and lots of preparation. Priming with a press mounted system is certainly not perfect, either. Hand priming, bench top tool priming, all of it has foibles and pitfalls that the user needs to know about (in advance!) and pay attention to. This is why I asked my questions above. Getting primers lined up with cases on a repeated basis can only go so many ways. It's the mechanical details of how this works in different machines that I find interesting. I find the "bring the dies down to the cases" arrangement of the 1050 to be incredibly smart - combining the case moving system with a ram adds variables that make sizing (rifle cases, anyway) inconsistent. But that priming step still needs to shove the little guy under where the case will be, whether the ram moves the cases up or the dies down... |
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Posted: 5/2/2016 11:35:34 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So I was doing some preventative care on one of my other 1050s. I took apart the priming system to clean and check the rubber hose piece. This 1050 primer slide didn't have the rubber hose. Rather, the place where the rubber hose wouldn normally go has a brass colored metallic ring permanently in place of the rubber hose. I guess Dillon got sick of people calling in to replace the rubber hose and just redesigned the piece. Question... To assemble the white primer piece, should I place it in a way that the brass sits tightly in the station? What is optimal placement of the white tab? Yes it was replaced with brass bushing on newer models, and nice improvement. I use a .454 Casull case on top of the primer tube follower (black plastic rod), you can also use a .45ACP or .45 Colt case if available. White plastic guide is usually has a gap, think finger nail thickness or so. ~g |
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