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Posted: 2/7/2014 3:07:40 PM EDT
[Last Edit: TheSafeGuy]
[#1]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Huskerfan4evr:
I have two computers and a laptop. One of the reasons I'm getting a BF6636 is to store my computers and laptops when we go on vacation. After reading this thread, I know that moisture will be in the safe in case of a fire. I've learned from you all what to do with my guns and paperwork. Are there any suggestions to store a computer tower in the safe and have it saved from moisture (since moisture and computer components don't play well with each other)? I would suggest you use Space Bags. They are heavy-duty plastic bags used to store bedding, pillows and other similar things. You draw the air out with a suction to evacuate and make them small. They are made by Ziploc, so the materials are good quality and will probably do well up to 300º. Place your items in the bottom of the safe. They make various sizes. Below you will see that the temperatures in the bottom of the AMSEC BF safe are considerably cooler late in the fire test. The probe distribution in this data is as follows: Two top probes 7 inches from the inside ceiling, two mid-elevation probes at vertical center of volume, and one probe 7 inches off the floor. All probes are equidistant from the inner walls. 
You can see the floor probe was still below 280º at 2-1/2 hours in the BF Gunsafe fire test. The rating for the safe is based on the hottest probes at the top, but you can see that there is a notable gradient and much lower temperatures as you go from top to floor. This is real data, not contrived made up numbers. This should focus your thinking on where you store valuables in your safe. I'll say it again, stacking lots of ammo in your safe is not smart (read epic stupid). It occupies valuable real estate, and when it gets to an ignition point, it's a huge source of incendiary fuel that will surely destroy whatever survived up to that time. |
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MP, USA
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Posted: 2/7/2014 4:37:40 PM EDT
[#2]
At what temperature (and what exposure time) are firearms in jeopardy of becoming damaged?
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Posted: 2/7/2014 5:31:18 PM EDT
[Last Edit: TheSafeGuy]
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By JoshNC:
At what temperature (and what exposure time) are firearms in jeopardy of becoming damaged? I don't know of any data or testing that really nails that down. It is probably not a simple question to answer. The age and type of woods, the quality of the metal finishing and degree of oiling present, the temperatures where these finishes begin to break down and various metals alloys begin to oxidize. We know that there is a saturated steam environment where that curve is above 212º. Wood soaks up moisture and swells, so the steam probably accelerates the damage to the wooden parts of a gun. High moisture and temperature clearly accelerates metal oxidation. I don't think anyone knows where the limits are in these conditions. It's probably fair to say that the old wood-stock and blue finish guns get hurt much sooner than the dura-coat parts, the anodized metals and plastic furniture on tactical weapons will be hurt. Paper ignites over 415º, so most woods probably have charring damage around that temperature. |
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Posted: 2/8/2014 1:18:49 PM EDT
[#4]
First, my apologies if this has been answered before. I've searched and had no luck.
What are the differences between the 2013 and 2014 BF6636 models. I believe the fire rating may be different, but not sure what else. Thanks in advance. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 2/8/2014 3:01:51 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryI would suggest you use Space Bags. Quote HistoryI would suggest you use Space Bags. Great. Thanks! Below you will see that the temperatures in the bottom of the AMSEC BF safe are considerably cooler late in the fire test. One of the reasons I'm going with AMSEC. I'll say it again, stacking lots of ammo in your safe is not smart (read epic stupid). I second that! (ammo)... it's a huge source of incendiary fuel that will surely destroy whatever survived up to that time. Which goes against my whole reason for the safe 
Thanks again TSG! 
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/8/2014 7:48:25 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheSafeGuy:
I see your point, and in your eyes you see weakness. In my eyes, there is simplicity and evolution. Well, that and 19 years of stellar success with the single most significant advance in safe designs in decades. That safe that you find to be lacking so much has changed the safe industry. I designed that safe in 1995, and it has been the biggest selling safe model in the last 30 years. A true milestone in the history of safes, it's the first plate door safe to get a legitimate UL burglary rating and a real UL Class 350 1-hour fire rating. To this day, not a single competitor has managed to meet the challenge and duplicate the advanced technologies hidden in that safe design. That simplicity is why it works. You may see that boltwork to be frail, but there is genius in that simplicity. I am not going to explain the why, but the unrivaled success of that product says that your concerns are completely unfounded. The BF Security Safe is the cornerstone of two decades of our success. The BF gunsafe that everyone raves about here, and for good reason, is the metamorphosis of that product into a Gunsafe platform. No doubt all of those beef-up measures that you suggest sound good, but would ruin the product. Trust me, there is nothing wrong in that safe design. I can point you to tens-of-thousands of satisfied customers that will sing that safe's praises as to it's value, security and fire resistance.... I moved my safe into my home all by myself. It weighs well over 3000 lbs. You can do anything if you think, use your tools with ingenuity and do things in a slow and deliberate way. I didn't remove the door. I used 3 sheets of 3/4 plywood, a pile of short 1x2s, 2x4s and 4x6s, a pallet jack and a nice big Johnson bar. I think you can handle a BF Gunsafe, if you think you can handle a BF Gunsafe. Cut to fit tight. Lay in the top, then the sides, then the back, then the floor... in that order. The sides and back will hold up the top. RTV Silicone Calking, good. Goop every joint full length as you lay in the panels. A second layer, same order as the first layer. Pack the jamb pocket area with strips on all four sides, and cap with one long cover piece. Silicone and cover with masking tap to hold until the RTV is set. Slather RTV on the inside back face of the door plate and piece in as much drywall as you can fit around the boltwork without interfering with function. One panel on the back of the door to replace the door cover. Intumescent door seals with soft silicone seals on top to get a good closing seal. Not a bad fire safe, should go 45 minutes. Steel liner, don't bother, too much work, not much gain. Use Type X gypsum board if you can find it. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheSafeGuy:
Originally Posted By Six2Life:
....Although, there is one area of the BF series that is causing me some concern. I have had the opportunity to look behind the door of a friend's late-90's BF1512 and was less than impressed with the construction of the boltwork. For one, the bolts seemed rather short. The other concern was the apparent weakness of the bolt support. The only piece of steel that the bolts pass through was rather thin. It couldn't have been more than 10ga. I did not see any kind of anti-pry tabs on the bolt carriage. I actually recommended that he consider pulling the bolt carriage out and have another piece of sheet steel welded to the back of the door frame since there seemed to be enough clearance with the bolts locked to get a pretty thick reinforcement in there. It looked to me like there was enough room in the door of this particular safe to double the length of the bolts and add a second bolt support an inch or so back from the door frame. Wouldn't this provide a substantial increase in pry-resistance for a rather small increase in production cost? Am I way off base even worrying about this? I realize the 1512 isn't the same safe that I am considering buying so maybe none of this even applies to the gunsafe BF line. I see your point, and in your eyes you see weakness. In my eyes, there is simplicity and evolution. Well, that and 19 years of stellar success with the single most significant advance in safe designs in decades. That safe that you find to be lacking so much has changed the safe industry. I designed that safe in 1995, and it has been the biggest selling safe model in the last 30 years. A true milestone in the history of safes, it's the first plate door safe to get a legitimate UL burglary rating and a real UL Class 350 1-hour fire rating. To this day, not a single competitor has managed to meet the challenge and duplicate the advanced technologies hidden in that safe design. That simplicity is why it works. You may see that boltwork to be frail, but there is genius in that simplicity. I am not going to explain the why, but the unrivaled success of that product says that your concerns are completely unfounded. The BF Security Safe is the cornerstone of two decades of our success. The BF gunsafe that everyone raves about here, and for good reason, is the metamorphosis of that product into a Gunsafe platform. No doubt all of those beef-up measures that you suggest sound good, but would ruin the product. Trust me, there is nothing wrong in that safe design. I can point you to tens-of-thousands of satisfied customers that will sing that safe's praises as to it's value, security and fire resistance.... ...Is there an approximate cut-off weight above which someone should not attempt a DIY install, assuming no staircases are involved? Is removing the door to bring the weight down more trouble than it is worth? I moved my safe into my home all by myself. It weighs well over 3000 lbs. You can do anything if you think, use your tools with ingenuity and do things in a slow and deliberate way. I didn't remove the door. I used 3 sheets of 3/4 plywood, a pile of short 1x2s, 2x4s and 4x6s, a pallet jack and a nice big Johnson bar. I think you can handle a BF Gunsafe, if you think you can handle a BF Gunsafe. TSG, do you have any tips for doing this? ...I am thinking of trying to seal the sheetrock joints with some of that 3M fire caulk. Would it be a bad idea to use a sealant that may expand when heated and possibly displace the sheetrock? Should I put some thin sheet steel inside the sheetrock as a liner to prevent displacement? Is some sheetrock better than others? My local big box home improvement store had a couple different types, one of which claimed to be "firerock". The store monkey had no idea why it might be more fire resistant. Cut to fit tight. Lay in the top, then the sides, then the back, then the floor... in that order. The sides and back will hold up the top. RTV Silicone Calking, good. Goop every joint full length as you lay in the panels. A second layer, same order as the first layer. Pack the jamb pocket area with strips on all four sides, and cap with one long cover piece. Silicone and cover with masking tap to hold until the RTV is set. Slather RTV on the inside back face of the door plate and piece in as much drywall as you can fit around the boltwork without interfering with function. One panel on the back of the door to replace the door cover. Intumescent door seals with soft silicone seals on top to get a good closing seal. Not a bad fire safe, should go 45 minutes. Steel liner, don't bother, too much work, not much gain. Use Type X gypsum board if you can find it. Thanks for the detailed answers! I'm sorry if I came across as bashing the BF1512. I was just trying to understand what I saw, admittedly from a layman's perspective. Thanks for taking the time to address my concerns. Since we're back on the topic of fire resistance, and I've started on my little fire upgrade project I thought I'd throw a couple more questions out there. I've seen a type of sheetrock called Type C or "improved Type X". Is there any benefit to using this stuff over standard Type X? The Type X I can find locally pretty easily, but finding someone who's even heard of Type C has been pretty difficult. The jamb pocket on this safe has steel channel or tubing placed over it forming a hollow void all around the door on the front of the safe. In your instructions above, you said to fill the jamb pocket with gypsum but I won't be able to do this since it isn't accessible. It seems this area, if left as is, would conduct quite a bit of heat into the safe interior. I thought about drilling a couple of holes through the steel covering the jamb pocket, and trying to fill the voids with as much vermiculite as possible. Does this seem like a good idea? Is there anything else I could do to address this problem? |
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WA, USA
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Posted: 2/8/2014 8:07:32 PM EDT
[#7]
TheSafeGuy, is the mechanical dial in the Lock Duo Redundant Lock option on BF6030 a group I or group II lock?
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/9/2014 12:49:23 AM EDT
[#8]
Great thread , I read all the way through. Question about safe rooms. Really I want to know everything you can think to add. Seems like a great idea for cost vs volume. Parents got robbed and all the accessories that don't go in the safe got taken, they didn't waste the time with the safe. If it was a do it yourself job what do you think of cinderblock walls turned lengthwise, staggered lay and a big rebar from slab to ceiling. Filled with concrete of course. What to do for a roof. When getting a vault door does that narrow down the dealers who know how to do it right? I would love an essay on this topic from your experiance.
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Posted: 2/9/2014 9:30:33 PM EDT
[#9]
Hello TheSafeGuy,
First off I have enjoyed this whole thread and thank you very much for your time. I recently bought a safe with my limited budget. There are a couple of things that I would like to have your opinion about. Today I installed lighting and notice a hole. Is this something I should make the "manufacturer" aware of? Also I became curious of what the internal workings looked like and found some rust. Should I be worried about this as well? 
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MN, USA
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Posted: 2/10/2014 1:30:01 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Aztecf]
[#10]
TSG, looking at a 7240 with the Lock Duo, do you have any pictures of an actual safe with this lock and not just the PDF installation instructions. Are you currently installing Lagard on one side of the Duo? There seems to be very little information on this setup?
Jeff |
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USA
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Posted: 2/10/2014 7:12:33 PM EDT
[#11]
Hey TSG,
I am in the market for a gun safe and came across this thread during my research and it was great all the information you have shared. There really hasn't been a lot of great resources out there with accurate information! Anyway I started out my search on what would be a pretty limited safe budget of $500-750 before I started looking which grew more the more research I did. Now I'm looking around $1500 with maybe pushing to $2000 if it's really worth it and I get a good deal. This is going in a closet so I was looking at the BF6024 and the SF6032 since I think the BF6032 is probably out of my price range so I was wondering if you could compare the SF and BF a little bit since most of the discussion here has been on the BF and on up? Crime is somewhat non-existent in my area so it's not a huge concern but I do live in a potential wildfire area...in fact one was a couple miles from my house last year and those houses that burned down there was nothing left but the chimney so that is a small concern. Since this SF's don't list a specific fire certification I assume the 60 minutes was just during your own testing or am i missing something? Also what does it use for the fire protection...again i'm assuming some kind of gypsum? Also if I can't work out a decent deal with my local dealer I was wondering if anyone's dealt with the safe and vault store? They seem to have good prices and delivery service. I think I can handle getting it in the house if they get it to the garage. If I do get it local does anyone have any tips for getting it out of the back of my truck safely if I take delivery myself? Thank you! |
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Posted: 2/10/2014 8:08:27 PM EDT
[#12]
Sorry if I am not hitting all the questions quickly right now gang, but I am way over here in India working on a project this week. I'll try to carve out some time to get thru the Q's soon.
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Posted: 2/10/2014 9:18:04 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheSafeGuy:
Sorry if I am not hitting all the questions quickly right now gang, but I am way over here in India working on a project this week. I'll try to carve out some time to get thru the Q's soon. No problem. Be safe. |
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Posted: 2/10/2014 10:59:37 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MONEYPIT808:
Finally pulled the trigger, ordered a BF7240 today. They said 4-6 wks. Finally, it's here!!!! 
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Posted: 2/11/2014 10:36:31 AM EDT
[#15]
My BF6636 is being delivered this week.
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Posted: 2/11/2014 11:29:59 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By LSUmakemewanna:
My BF6636 is being delivered this week. You will not be disappointed!!
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/11/2014 7:51:31 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MONEYPIT808:
You will not be disappointed!! Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MONEYPIT808:
Originally Posted By LSUmakemewanna:
My BF6636 is being delivered this week. You will not be disappointed!! Neither was I. But now after four years of heeler's version of storage wars I wish mightily I would have ordered a BF7240 instead of my BF6636 which I still love dearly. Hell I even put it in my Will as who it is to go to one day...... 
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CA, USA
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Posted: 2/11/2014 8:44:12 PM EDT
[#18]
Question on installation. RF6528 installed on a slab(garage). Safe drilled to be bolted down, single bolt hole. 3455 lbs., 72"x35"x29.5". Elevate on hockey pucks? If so, drill a hole through one puck so the bolt goes through the safe, puck, and into the slab? Or no elevation?
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CA, USA
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Posted: 2/11/2014 10:36:14 PM EDT
[#19]
The RF does not come with holes. You would have to order it that way. I believe you can order it that way for not much $$.
Drilling it aftermarket would not be fun. Aside from the issues with the box, the interior does not seem to have been designed with holes in mind. |
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Posted: 2/11/2014 10:40:24 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By guggep:
The RF does not come with holes. You would have to order it that way. I believe you can order it that way for not much $$. Drilling it aftermarket would not be fun. Aside from the issues with the box, the interior does not seem to have been designed with holes in mind. I believe that earlier in this thread TSG said that was because safes with this much capacity for valuables usually have a monitored alarm system. You can epoxy it to the floor. That was in this thread too. Long thread. |
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Posted: 2/12/2014 2:54:17 AM EDT
[Last Edit: JE3146]
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheSafeGuy:
I would suggest you use Space Bags. They are heavy-duty plastic bags used to store bedding, pillows and other similar things. You draw the air out with a suction to evacuate and make them small. They are made by Ziploc, so the materials are good quality and will probably do well up to 300º. Place your items in the bottom of the safe. They make various sizes. Below you will see that the temperatures in the bottom of the AMSEC BF safe are considerably cooler late in the fire test. The probe distribution in this data is as follows: Two top probes 7 inches from the inside ceiling, two mid-elevation probes at vertical center of volume, and one probe 7 inches off the floor. All probes are equidistant from the inner walls. http://<a href=http://i1363.photobucket.com/albums/r703/TheSafeGuy/BFTestResult_zps52913d8b.jpg You can see the floor probe was still below 280º at 2-1/2 hours in the BF Gunsafe fire test. The rating for the safe is based on the hottest probes at the top, but you can see that there is a notable gradient and much lower temperatures as you go from top to floor. This is real data, not contrived made up numbers. This should focus your thinking on where you store valuables in your safe. I'll say it again, stacking lots of ammo in your safe is not smart (read epic stupid). It occupies valuable real estate, and when it gets to an ignition point, it's a huge source of incendiary fuel that will surely destroy whatever survived up to that time. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheSafeGuy:
Originally Posted By Huskerfan4evr:
I have two computers and a laptop. One of the reasons I'm getting a BF6636 is to store my computers and laptops when we go on vacation. After reading this thread, I know that moisture will be in the safe in case of a fire. I've learned from you all what to do with my guns and paperwork. Are there any suggestions to store a computer tower in the safe and have it saved from moisture (since moisture and computer components don't play well with each other)? I would suggest you use Space Bags. They are heavy-duty plastic bags used to store bedding, pillows and other similar things. You draw the air out with a suction to evacuate and make them small. They are made by Ziploc, so the materials are good quality and will probably do well up to 300º. Place your items in the bottom of the safe. They make various sizes. Below you will see that the temperatures in the bottom of the AMSEC BF safe are considerably cooler late in the fire test. The probe distribution in this data is as follows: Two top probes 7 inches from the inside ceiling, two mid-elevation probes at vertical center of volume, and one probe 7 inches off the floor. All probes are equidistant from the inner walls. http://<a href=http://i1363.photobucket.com/albums/r703/TheSafeGuy/BFTestResult_zps52913d8b.jpg You can see the floor probe was still below 280º at 2-1/2 hours in the BF Gunsafe fire test. The rating for the safe is based on the hottest probes at the top, but you can see that there is a notable gradient and much lower temperatures as you go from top to floor. This is real data, not contrived made up numbers. This should focus your thinking on where you store valuables in your safe. I'll say it again, stacking lots of ammo in your safe is not smart (read epic stupid). It occupies valuable real estate, and when it gets to an ignition point, it's a huge source of incendiary fuel that will surely destroy whatever survived up to that time. Before you stick your tower in those bags, be careful about static electricity. You could use a typical Anti Static bag and seal it, but they are made of standard LDPE which has a melting point of ~250 degrees F. That'd give you roughly 2 hours on the bottom of the safe before those melted based on that graph. |
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Posted: 2/12/2014 5:31:56 AM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By quijanos:
How hard is it to take one of your locks and replace another vendors/makers lock? And are you speaking of electronic or combo? |
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OR, USA
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Posted: 2/12/2014 5:36:25 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Durzil]
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bani:
TheSafeGuy, is the mechanical dial in the Lock Duo Redundant Lock option on BF6030 a group I or group II lock? I have the same question. Which lock is included when ordering the duo redundant locks on the BF series. I'm looking at ordering the BF6030 in the next month with this option. Also any pictures of this lock installed? |
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NV, USA
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Posted: 2/12/2014 11:24:33 PM EDT
[#24]
CFX Pictures within 24 hours.
:-D |
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Posted: 2/13/2014 9:37:00 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Plattekill]
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By cj_the_pj:
CFX Pictures within 24 hours. :-D T- 12 hours and counting...
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CA, USA
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Posted: 2/13/2014 11:01:34 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mescalito14:
Question on installation. RF6528 installed on a slab(garage). Safe drilled to be bolted down, single bolt hole. 3455 lbs., 72"x35"x29.5". Elevate on hockey pucks? If so, drill a hole through one puck so the bolt goes through the safe, puck, and into the slab? Or no elevation? Going with a 3/4 inch industrial rubber mat, 48"x36". |
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NV, USA
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Posted: 2/13/2014 4:09:06 PM EDT
[Last Edit: cj_the_pj]
[#27]
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Posted: 2/13/2014 6:59:32 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By cj_the_pj:
http://imageshack.com/a/img577/1543/injk.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img32/9610/jb9l.jpg I have Jealous 
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Posted: 2/13/2014 8:12:58 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By cj_the_pj:
http://imageshack.com/a/img577/1543/injk.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img32/9610/jb9l.jpg Very nice, REAL security, those are cool keys that come with the safe
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NV, USA
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Posted: 2/13/2014 11:55:03 PM EDT
[#30]
I noticed the combo is a slight art to learn for mechanical.
gotta go with like 50.5 sometimes versus going with exactly on the hash tag for a code. must of got coded on a friday :( otherwise i will have a full review coming for everyone. safe movers were great bunch of guys and if anyone needs a referral i can accommodate with the insights from them. no tiles cracked, no damage done, no injuries, polite, squared away, and they got 4600 pounds from a to b with no issues what soever. gotta get some slight movements finalized to get it where i want exactly to facilitate with putting the finish touchings in that area. -BK |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/14/2014 12:29:20 AM EDT
[#31]
Well after months of difficulty making a decision, the safe I ordered finally arrived. After inspecting it, I declined it and bought a BF6636 instead. It'll be delivered tomorrow!
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Posted: 2/14/2014 8:58:03 AM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By heeler1:
Neither was I. But now after four years of heeler's version of storage wars I wish mightily I would have ordered a BF7240 instead of my BF6636 which I still love dearly. Hell I even put it in my Will as who it is to go to one day......
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By heeler1:
Originally Posted By MONEYPIT808:
Originally Posted By LSUmakemewanna:
My BF6636 is being delivered this week. You will not be disappointed!! Neither was I. But now after four years of heeler's version of storage wars I wish mightily I would have ordered a BF7240 instead of my BF6636 which I still love dearly. Hell I even put it in my Will as who it is to go to one day......
And, yes that is a gummy candy Playstation controller. These are my Valntines Day gifts from the wifey. I got to load this thing up now
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/14/2014 10:06:37 AM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By pstroke:
Well after months of difficulty making a decision, the safe I ordered finally arrived. After inspecting it, I declined it and bought a BF6636 instead. It'll be delivered tomorrow! What safe did you reject? Just curious. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/14/2014 6:49:32 PM EDT
[Last Edit: pstroke]
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By heeler1:
What safe did you reject? Just curious. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By heeler1:
Originally Posted By pstroke:
Well after months of difficulty making a decision, the safe I ordered finally arrived. After inspecting it, I declined it and bought a BF6636 instead. It'll be delivered tomorrow! What safe did you reject? Just curious. It was a Rhino Ironworks AF. I'm happy with my choice. I only wish it had an electric outlet for lighting. I found a battery box online that should easily power an LED light strip. That and a full door organizer and I'll be set. 
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Posted: 2/14/2014 8:06:47 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By pstroke:
It was a Rhino Ironworks AF. I'm happy with my choice. I only wish it had an electric outlet for lighting. I found a battery box online that should easily power an LED light strip. That and a full door organizer and I'll be set. http://mfletch.smugmug.com/photos/i-fGHMrPv/0/O/i-fGHMrPv.jpg Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By pstroke:
Originally Posted By heeler1:
Originally Posted By pstroke:
Well after months of difficulty making a decision, the safe I ordered finally arrived. After inspecting it, I declined it and bought a BF6636 instead. It'll be delivered tomorrow! What safe did you reject? Just curious. It was a Rhino Ironworks AF. I'm happy with my choice. I only wish it had an electric outlet for lighting. I found a battery box online that should easily power an LED light strip. That and a full door organizer and I'll be set. http://mfletch.smugmug.com/photos/i-fGHMrPv/0/O/i-fGHMrPv.jpg Your BF should have an AC outlet thru the back. You should see it in the back right corner of the safe on the bottom... |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/15/2014 1:07:42 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Conju:
Your BF should have an AC outlet thru the back. You should see it in the back right corner of the safe on the bottom... Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Conju:
Originally Posted By pstroke:
Originally Posted By heeler1:
Originally Posted By pstroke:
Well after months of difficulty making a decision, the safe I ordered finally arrived. After inspecting it, I declined it and bought a BF6636 instead. It'll be delivered tomorrow! What safe did you reject? Just curious. It was a Rhino Ironworks AF. I'm happy with my choice. I only wish it had an electric outlet for lighting. I found a battery box online that should easily power an LED light strip. That and a full door organizer and I'll be set. http://mfletch.smugmug.com/photos/i-fGHMrPv/0/O/i-fGHMrPv.jpg Your BF should have an AC outlet thru the back. You should see it in the back right corner of the safe on the bottom... Hmmm. No AC outlet here. Sides and back of safe are smooth without wires or outlets. I can see the outlet in some of the other safe photos. Mine doesn't have that. |
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NV, USA
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Posted: 2/15/2014 2:54:34 PM EDT
[#37]
All,
I just wanted to drop a referral after the experience i had with my CFX purchase. I went with a company called West Coast Safes - im sure google will find their link for anyone interested. The guy over there Steve Woodruff was a real pleasure to deal with, his crew professional, didnt crack any tile and got the 4600 pounds of monster vault through a narrow door and into position for my fine tuning. They were knowledgeable and other than the wait from the factory for the custom options this company was an extreme pleasure to deal with - i guess they have delivered safes as far as arizona and beyond and had the best prices i was able to find - probably would of even paid another 1-200 ;) ;) |
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Posted: 2/15/2014 4:35:25 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By cj_the_pj:
All, I just wanted to drop a referral after the experience i had with my CFX purchase. I went with a company called West Coast Safes - im sure google will find their link for anyone interested. The guy over there Steve Woodruff was a real pleasure to deal with, his crew professional, didnt crack any tile and got the 4600 pounds of monster vault through a narrow door and into position for my fine tuning. They were knowledgeable and other than the wait from the factory for the custom options this company was an extreme pleasure to deal with - i guess they have delivered safes as far as arizona and beyond and had the best prices i was able to find - probably would of even paid another 1-200 ;) ;) Thanks for posting, I have heard others say good things about that outfit, so based on weight you must have bought the 703620 (nice), was the install just two guys. |
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NV, USA
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Posted: 2/15/2014 5:01:31 PM EDT
[#39]
3 guys... some creative platform building and artful pallet jack manipulations going through the door about 35" wide and over a 4-5 threshold with a slight beam spacing issue where it was jammed in there. but they didnt damage a thing, no tile cracks, and got it into place where i told them good enough - i have some better lifting equipment - pneumatic airbags to lower it to the ground from blocks and get the drill hole done.
and yes the 70 series, i guess those are dimensions or whatever. back to the mechanical lock though... if the combo number is 50. some of the set digits i have to place at like 50.5 or 45.5 its weird but once i have the touch down it works 100% of the time, just figuring out which way to change the dial to left or right... |
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Posted: 2/16/2014 11:21:48 AM EDT
[#40]
Quick question about the CSC series. Am I to understand that the fill used in these safes is no longer the AMVault high strength concrete with the goodies mixed in?
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/16/2014 11:47:13 AM EDT
[Last Edit: nufsed]
[#41]
As others have done, I have followed this thread from the beginning and many other threads closely for two years planning my next safe purchase. Thank you ALL for the information!
Before posting this, I have tried some fairly intense Google-Fu for several days without satisfaction. If the answer has been covered, please send me there. I finally found the deal I wanted on a used TL30 from a jewelry store owner on the East coast. I anxiously await its arrival. The safe is a MaxVault F21. Found HERE Research found that it appears to be the same as this MESA And also perfectly matches this CF6528 Before buying, I spoke with Shep at Maximum and he stated that, indeed, the safe is made by Amsec and labeled for Maximum. I am assuming that the same is done for Mesa. I'm also assuming the UL rating label is awarded from the same test sequence as the Amsec. (Maybe the number matches(?) Two questions for TheSafeGuy, 1.) is this safe truly the same quality build and the same safe as the Amsec CF6528 (except for the trim)? 2.) are there other brands offering the CF (or RF, BF) lines under private labels? Ok, a third.... 3.) is there an interior kit to convert this to the RF interior? Thanks for your indulgence . |
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Posted: 2/16/2014 5:48:57 PM EDT
[Last Edit: TheSafeGuy]
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By LSUmakemewanna:
First, my apologies if this has been answered before. I've searched and had no luck. What are the differences between the 2013 and 2014 BF6636 models. I believe the fire rating may be different, but not sure what else. Thanks in advance. There is no real difference. In late 2012 we made some refinements to our filling equipment and filling procedures. We didn't really change the fill formula, and the claims were conservative before. We know our competitors are highly motivated to discount the extraordinary claims of fire resistance that the BF exhibits. The recent fire testing was conducted was motivated to make comparative tests with a few competitors safe, and to solidify/confirm the Mercury labels we use with a well known mainstream laboratory. Your older BF safes are should be just as good as the ones we build today. |
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WI, USA
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Posted: 2/16/2014 6:25:43 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote History And, yes that is a gummy candy Playstation controller. These are my Valntines Day gifts from the wifey.
I got to load this thing up now Nice bird! Am I really the first to notice that? 
CM |
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WA, USA
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Posted: 2/16/2014 7:30:27 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Durzil:
I have the same question. Which lock is included when ordering the duo redundant locks on the BF series. I'm looking at ordering the BF6030 in the next month with this option. Also any pictures of this lock installed? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Durzil:
Originally Posted By bani:
TheSafeGuy, is the mechanical dial in the Lock Duo Redundant Lock option on BF6030 a group I or group II lock? I have the same question. Which lock is included when ordering the duo redundant locks on the BF series. I'm looking at ordering the BF6030 in the next month with this option. Also any pictures of this lock installed? there seems to be zero information available about this option. |
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Posted: 2/16/2014 10:12:42 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Six2Life:
Since we're back on the topic of fire resistance, and I've started on my little fire upgrade project I thought I'd throw a couple more questions out there. I've seen a type of sheetrock called Type C or "improved Type X". Is there any benefit to using this stuff over standard Type X? The Type X I can find locally pretty easily, but finding someone who's even heard of Type C has been pretty difficult. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Six2Life:
Since we're back on the topic of fire resistance, and I've started on my little fire upgrade project I thought I'd throw a couple more questions out there. I've seen a type of sheetrock called Type C or "improved Type X". Is there any benefit to using this stuff over standard Type X? The Type X I can find locally pretty easily, but finding someone who's even heard of Type C has been pretty difficult. If you have the opportunity to install the Type C over Type X, by all means, it does have some properties that are desirable. The jamb pocket on this safe has steel channel or tubing placed over it forming a hollow void all around the door on the front of the safe. In your instructions above, you said to fill the jamb pocket with gypsum but I won't be able to do this since it isn't accessible. It seems this area, if left as is, would conduct quite a bit of heat into the safe interior. I thought about drilling a couple of holes through the steel covering the jamb pocket, and trying to fill the voids with as much vermiculite as possible. Does this seem like a good idea? Is there anything else I could do to address this problem?
If you can make some runny mortar with some regular cement and vermiculite, that would be a decent filler of this area. Try a test mix at 50-50 by weight, see is it makes a decent brick when it sets. Use water to make it the consistency of a thick milkshake so it will flow. Just tape off any leaky spots and use a hole saw to open a hole at the top big enough to shovel in the slurry. |
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Posted: 2/16/2014 10:15:35 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bani:
TheSafeGuy, is the mechanical dial in the Lock Duo Redundant Lock option on BF6030 a group I or group II lock? Trying to answer the backlog of questions. Home from a long and intense trip on the other side of the world. If others have chimed in on my behalf, thanks for the assist... The NL Locks Duo has a Group II rating, which satisfies the requirements for a UL Listed RSC Container. |
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Posted: 2/16/2014 10:22:47 PM EDT
[Last Edit: TheSafeGuy]
[#47]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Kylej86:
Today I installed lighting and notice a hole. Is this something I should make the "manufacturer" aware of? Also I became curious of what the internal workings looked like and found some rust. Should I be worried about this as well? A small hole like that will have little effect on fire resistance given the positive pressure associated with the steam generation coming from the insulation. If that's a dry insulation (ceramic fiber) safe, maybe you should plug that hole up with some RTV Silicone, couldn't hurt. Don't sweat the rust. Ever see the movie "Mother"? That's the protective ice on the ice cream.... 
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Posted: 2/16/2014 10:28:22 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Aztecf:
TSG, looking at a 7240 with the Lock Duo, do you have any pictures of an actual safe with this lock and not just the PDF installation instructions. Are you currently installing Lagard on one side of the Duo? There seems to be very little information on this setup? Jeff I'll try to find a moment to take a snap or two of the setup. No, the lock is a singular device, one lock. Internally, the combo lock is there, but the lever inside breaks over to allow the lock to open when the solenoid mounted on the lever retracts. So, in effect the lock is operated from two ways, but the common bolt is release and retracted. |
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Posted: 2/16/2014 10:33:14 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mescalito14:
Question on installation. RF6528 installed on a slab(garage). Safe drilled to be bolted down, single bolt hole. 3455 lbs., 72"x35"x29.5". Elevate on hockey pucks? If so, drill a hole through one puck so the bolt goes through the safe, puck, and into the slab? This ^. On hockey pucks, wood or carpet, even rubber. The best solutions are materials that don't "hold" water. Airspace is the best guarantee of a dry surface that won't promote oxidation. |
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Posted: 2/16/2014 10:35:23 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Durzil:
I have the same question. Which lock is included when ordering the duo redundant locks on the BF series. I'm looking at ordering the BF6030 in the next month with this option. Also any pictures of this lock installed? We are not doing a lock substitution for the Duo on RSC rated safes. |
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