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TX, USA
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Posted: 1/19/2016 6:29:00 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
The powder is not the problem. You have a severe static issue. Probably your powder jug to start with and the problem spread to your powder and everything it touched. First what is the humidity where you reload? <a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/user/dryflash3/media/Powder%20%20and%20Primers/P1300703.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/Powder%20%20and%20Primers/P1300703.jpg</a> I had a can of Power Pistol that did that. Wipe everything down with a new dryer sheet. After that pour powdered graphite in your powder measure and run it through, also coat the hopper inside and out. Do this over a pan so you can catch and reuse the graphite. Wipe powder pan and anything else with a static issue with a little graphite on the dryer sheet. How I got rid of my powder can static was to dump powder in a container and put graphite in the powder jug and shake it, then dump it out. Also wipe off outside the can with a little graphite on the dryer sheet. Also may help to ground your press to a water pipe. Google powdered graphite to find where to buy it. I apply it with an acid brush. Good luck Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
Originally Posted By QwikKotaTx:
Does anyone else have an issue with A1680 powder and static? The powder does not stick to my scale pan or the funnel but it is sticking badly to the case mouth, not all of it drops down to the base. It may not be an issue but I would prefer to seat the bullet on a clean brass surface. Maybe I can rub the cases on dryer sheets?? The powder is not the problem. You have a severe static issue. Probably your powder jug to start with and the problem spread to your powder and everything it touched. First what is the humidity where you reload? <a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/user/dryflash3/media/Powder%20%20and%20Primers/P1300703.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/Powder%20%20and%20Primers/P1300703.jpg</a> I had a can of Power Pistol that did that. Wipe everything down with a new dryer sheet. After that pour powdered graphite in your powder measure and run it through, also coat the hopper inside and out. Do this over a pan so you can catch and reuse the graphite. Wipe powder pan and anything else with a static issue with a little graphite on the dryer sheet. How I got rid of my powder can static was to dump powder in a container and put graphite in the powder jug and shake it, then dump it out. Also wipe off outside the can with a little graphite on the dryer sheet. Also may help to ground your press to a water pipe. Google powdered graphite to find where to buy it. I apply it with an acid brush. Good luck Typically the house is closer to 60% RH in the summer but being winter and the heat on it's very dry, downstairs is 45%. I did not have this problem with A2230 when loading .223 but the granules of A1680 appear to be even finer. Is there a danger of spark? Right now I am using a plastic powder dipper to drop on to the plastic scale pan and then filling the case with a hard plastic funnel. Lot of plastic. After I test the rounds I will use the powder dispenser for the Dillon. I am working in a carpeted area which is probably not helping. I have a little bit of powdered graphite for lubing door locks. Thanks a lot. |
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Posted: 1/19/2016 7:03:05 PM EDT
[#2]
All of that plastic can't be helping you. Humidity seems ok. All of your plastic powder tools need the graphite wipe. Repeat until the static is gone. I have managed to get my Lee dippers (plastic for those who never used them) static free with powered graphite. Also when you store your plastic powder tools, wrap each one in a new dryer sheet. Do not store in a plastic tub, use a cardboard or wood box. Notice in my pic on the last page I store my powder measure with 2 dryer sheets inside the hopper. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 1/20/2016 2:48:43 PM EDT
[#3]
Thanks, I will try those suggestions. As soon as my powder funnel shows up I will start using the hopper system.
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Posted: 1/20/2016 3:17:35 PM EDT
[#4]
Man, I changed from a 10.5" barrel to an 8" and am blowing and flattening primers and rims are showing a large amount of extraction pulling.
I'm not sure of my load, as I'm at work right now, but they are 150 gr loads with what I'd call "middle of the road charge of lil' gun". They were sub MOA with my 10.5" barrel. The 8" barrel printed 2", at best, Both shot with a red dot at 25 yards. Many failed to load / eject properly, ending my session when a blown primer found it's way below my trigger group. The 10.5" barrel was a KAK value line, the 8" was a Ballistic Advantatge. Unsure of gas port size, but both ports were as they come from the factory. The rest of the rifle was the same. PSA M16 bolt, standard carbine buffer and spring, same gas block and tube. Is the 8" barrel that much more gassed and abusive? |
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Posted: 1/20/2016 3:41:20 PM EDT
[#5]
Not uncommon for different chambers to have a different reaction to the same load. Work up your load for the new barrel. |
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Posted: 1/21/2016 10:09:05 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By QwikKotaTx:
Typically the house is closer to 60% RH in the summer but being winter and the heat on it's very dry, downstairs is 45%. I did not have this problem with A2230 when loading .223 but the granules of A1680 appear to be even finer. Is there a danger of spark? Right now I am using a plastic powder dipper to drop on to the plastic scale pan and then filling the case with a hard plastic funnel. Lot of plastic. After I test the rounds I will use the powder dispenser for the Dillon. I am working in a carpeted area which is probably not helping. I have a little bit of powdered graphite for lubing door locks. Thanks a lot. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By QwikKotaTx:
Originally Posted By dryflash3:
Originally Posted By QwikKotaTx:
Does anyone else have an issue with A1680 powder and static? The powder does not stick to my scale pan or the funnel but it is sticking badly to the case mouth, not all of it drops down to the base. It may not be an issue but I would prefer to seat the bullet on a clean brass surface. Maybe I can rub the cases on dryer sheets?? The powder is not the problem. You have a severe static issue. Probably your powder jug to start with and the problem spread to your powder and everything it touched. First what is the humidity where you reload? <a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/user/dryflash3/media/Powder%20%20and%20Primers/P1300703.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/Powder%20%20and%20Primers/P1300703.jpg</a> I had a can of Power Pistol that did that. Wipe everything down with a new dryer sheet. After that pour powdered graphite in your powder measure and run it through, also coat the hopper inside and out. Do this over a pan so you can catch and reuse the graphite. Wipe powder pan and anything else with a static issue with a little graphite on the dryer sheet. How I got rid of my powder can static was to dump powder in a container and put graphite in the powder jug and shake it, then dump it out. Also wipe off outside the can with a little graphite on the dryer sheet. Also may help to ground your press to a water pipe. Google powdered graphite to find where to buy it. I apply it with an acid brush. Good luck Typically the house is closer to 60% RH in the summer but being winter and the heat on it's very dry, downstairs is 45%. I did not have this problem with A2230 when loading .223 but the granules of A1680 appear to be even finer. Is there a danger of spark? Right now I am using a plastic powder dipper to drop on to the plastic scale pan and then filling the case with a hard plastic funnel. Lot of plastic. After I test the rounds I will use the powder dispenser for the Dillon. I am working in a carpeted area which is probably not helping. I have a little bit of powdered graphite for lubing door locks. Thanks a lot. There isn't really a spark risk with this level of static cling. It's more an issue of poor powder flow and clogging. Not that it's fun, just that it won't blow you up. Grounding stuff doesn't so much "decrease the spark risk" as drain static charges as much as possible. The hard-core anti-static zealot will bond and ground everything to a metal cold water pipe - and still have some static cling issues because of all the plastic involved, Keep in mind that smokeless powder is itself a polymer, and tends to be a static source by itself. Google "diy antistatic spray." It's a mix of generic fabric softener, isopropyl alcohol and water that you spray on surfaces - like your carpet - to decrease static. It should work on the plastic funnel and scale pan too. The spray should also work on your powder measure hopper as well, but it will need to be redone fairly regularly. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 1/22/2016 4:21:52 PM EDT
[#7]
Need some help here.
Rifle: PWS MK109 which has a 9.75 inch barrel Bullet: 208gr Hornady Match (only thing I could find locally) Powder: IMR 4227 (loading 10gr as the spec is 10.3 max) Primer: CCI small rifle About every 3-4 rounds, I would get a failure to feed or what appeared to be a bolt overrun (I think thats the name). Any thoughts? |
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Posted: 1/22/2016 5:08:11 PM EDT
[#8]
Are you sure the bolt is going all the way to the rear and not picking up the next round?
Or is it short stroking. If you put two rounds in it will the bolt lock back on the last round? I'm not an expert but if you think the bolt is going all the way to the rear and not picking up the next round then it is likely an Overall length issue or a magazine issue. |
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MO, USA
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Posted: 1/22/2016 10:02:15 PM EDT
[#9]
I just finished reading all 89 pages of this.
I just got my SBR and suppressor tax stamps approved, and am about to begin reloading for .300 blackout. I've made copious notes, and have quite the shopping list. My question is this: I have several thousand once-fired 5.56 cases, but they are all RORG headstamped Radway Green that I fired from my 5.56 AR. From reading many things, I see that RORG is consistently too thick in the neck after forming. I have no other source for fired cases, unless I was to buy them online. Is it worth getting into the chop saw/trimming/annealing thing if I don't even have any appropriate brass to convert? Would I be better off just buying new 300 stamped brass in the first place? Thanks. |
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Posted: 1/22/2016 11:13:20 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By the_naked_prophet:
I just finished reading all 89 pages of this. I just got my SBR and suppressor tax stamps approved, and am about to begin reloading for .300 blackout. I've made copious notes, and have quite the shopping list. My question is this: I have several thousand once-fired 5.56 cases, but they are all RORG headstamped Radway Green that I fired from my 5.56 AR. From reading many things, I see that RORG is consistently too thick in the neck after forming. I have no other source for fired cases, unless I was to buy them online. Is it worth getting into the chop saw/trimming/annealing thing if I don't even have any appropriate brass to convert? Would I be better off just buying new 300 stamped brass in the first place? Thanks. my opinion it's not worth it period there are several vendors in the ee here who sell pre-formed 300 brass made from 5.56 for very reasonable |
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Posted: 1/22/2016 11:17:12 PM EDT
[Last Edit: RANGER_556]
[#11]
Anyone else use the PSA 8.5" barrel?
I have 8lbs of H110 to work up loads. However, just got a 1lb of 1680 as I've head much better things about it. Edit: I've got three pills on order. 220 SMK, 220 game king, and 220 Hornady ELD-X Gonna see which performs best |
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WA, USA
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Posted: 1/23/2016 12:32:00 AM EDT
[#12]
Anyone care to share what the Hornady headspace comp readings there getting?
I have only fired the Rem 220gr loads. After firing Im getting 1.0805" Is the pressure enough, or should I fire some "supers" to get another measurement? I would love to know what measurement DryFlash sizes to. 
Is 1.078 a good start? Im hoping to load up my first loads in the next couple days. Expander die should be here tomorrow. 
Thank you |
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Posted: 1/23/2016 1:09:55 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mybronco2: Anyone care to share what the Hornady headspace comp readings there getting? I have only fired the Rem 220gr loads. After firing Im getting 1.0805" Is the pressure enough, or should I fire some "supers" to get another measurement? I would love to know what measurement DryFlash sizes to. Is 1.078 a good start? Im hoping to load up my first loads in the next couple days. Expander die should be here tomorrow. Thank you Don't have the numbers handy, but this is what I did. Fired factory rounds and measured them. That told me what my chamber measured. Then I set the shoulder back .003. So measure cases that fired full power loads, and adjust your sizing die for your chamber, not mine. Good luck |
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Posted: 1/23/2016 4:42:16 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By AR15Mudder:
Need some help here. Rifle: PWS MK109 which has a 9.75 inch barrel Bullet: 208gr Hornady Match (only thing I could find locally) Powder: IMR 4227 (loading 10gr as the spec is 10.3 max) Primer: CCI small rifle About every 3-4 rounds, I would get a failure to feed or what appeared to be a bolt overrun (I think thats the name). Any thoughts? first off with subs it is always recommended to start high and work down while shooting over a Chronograph. Subs are done differently then standard velocity. if you notice they do not list a start load. Also You don't list velocity, am I to assume that you do not have a chronograph. I would start at about 11gr and work down till I had my desired fps, which for me is 1000fps and cycling. at 10 gr you are more then likely lower then what is recommended to get cycling. |
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Posted: 1/23/2016 5:29:11 PM EDT
[#15]
Quick question. I'll read through this thread but I have already reloaded some subsonic 220 SMK. I just bought a can and now waiting for the stamp. What distance should I shoot paper to determine if the loads are stable! 5 yards or 100? By the way, if you can recommend a good load for subs that won't ruin my can I'd apprecIate it. I'm shooting a 9" cmmg barrel and will have a 762 can on it if I live long enough for it to come in
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Posted: 1/24/2016 8:39:25 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By defenderhome:
Quick question. I'll read through this thread but I have already reloaded some subsonic 220 SMK. I just bought a can and now waiting for the stamp. What distance should I shoot paper to determine if the loads are stable! 5 yards or 100? By the way, if you can recommend a good load for subs that won't ruin my can I'd apprecIate it. I'm shooting a 9" cmmg barrel and will have a 762 can on it if I live long enough for it to come in Close. As long as it's leaving the muzzle/can stabilized, you can then worry about what's going on down range. |
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Posted: 1/26/2016 8:33:56 AM EDT
[#17]
I'd second this.
I had tumbling problems at 30 feet. These were 220 grain out of a 10" barrel with 1:8 twist. 1:7 twist barrel solved this issue. No damage to the suppressor, however. |
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Posted: 1/26/2016 4:24:46 PM EDT
[#18]
A few posts above, I stated having problems with my 150 gr load.
Problem solved. 4 shots (all I had left after zeroing my red dot) 150 gr Hornady FMJ 15 gr Lil' Gun My formed brass. 
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Posted: 1/26/2016 4:45:16 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dirtyone04:
I'd second this. I had tumbling problems at 30 feet. These were 220 grain out of a 10" barrel with 1:8 twist. 1:7 twist barrel solved this issue. No damage to the suppressor, however. That doesn't give me a lot of confidence....I've got a PSA 8.5" 1:8 barrel Getting ready to work up some 220 loads. I've got three different bullets on order. SMK, GameKing, and the Hornady ELD-X all in 220 gr. |
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Posted: 1/26/2016 6:22:19 PM EDT
[Last Edit: dirtyone04]
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RANGER_556:
That doesn't give me a lot of confidence....I've got a PSA 8.5" 1:8 barrel Getting ready to work up some 220 loads. I've got three different bullets on order. SMK, GameKing, and the Hornady ELD-X all in 220 gr. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RANGER_556:
Originally Posted By dirtyone04:
I'd second this. I had tumbling problems at 30 feet. These were 220 grain out of a 10" barrel with 1:8 twist. 1:7 twist barrel solved this issue. No damage to the suppressor, however. That doesn't give me a lot of confidence....I've got a PSA 8.5" 1:8 barrel Getting ready to work up some 220 loads. I've got three different bullets on order. SMK, GameKing, and the Hornady ELD-X all in 220 gr. I won't say that you will have trouble, but my shooting partner has the 12" PSA barrel in 1:8 and his were tumbling. 208's worked fine. The bullets we were using were made by Ozark Ordnance (http://www.ozarkordnance.com/) left cold on purpose. I haven't loaded any in that grain to see if they work in the new 1:7, but the Remington 220's grouped <1" for me. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 1/27/2016 11:37:47 AM EDT
[#21]
Turns out my problem is with the rifle and not so much the loads. I bought the upper and lower independent of each other. I called PWS and they said their lowers come with a H2 buffer, but when they sell a MK109 whole, it comes with a carbine buffer. I swapped it out and will test this weekend. At this point, no clue if my loads will work. Good thing I only did 40 of them. :)
As far as the advice to use 11gr, do you see any issue going over what Hodgdon recommends as the max gr amount? |
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Posted: 1/27/2016 3:48:58 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By AR15Mudder:
Turns out my problem is with the rifle and not so much the loads. I bought the upper and lower independent of each other. I called PWS and they said their lowers come with a H2 buffer, but when they sell a MK109 whole, it comes with a carbine buffer. I swapped it out and will test this weekend. At this point, no clue if my loads will work. Good thing I only did 40 of them. :) As far as the advice to use 11gr, do you see any issue going over what Hodgdon recommends as the max gr amount? Wow, good catch! Didn't even think about this when I swapped uppers. My 300blk now sits on an SBR lower that was originally an 11.5" 5.56 barrel. It had a heavy buffer and extra power spring. Never crossed my mind to change that out. I think I may still have a carbine buffer and perhaps I'll order a light power spring. Thanks. |
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Posted: 1/28/2016 12:45:14 AM EDT
[#23]
I only shoot super sonic, and even at that I still had to swap out my H2 buffer for a Carbine buffer to get the gun to run. This was on a 16" barrel.
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OH, USA
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Posted: 1/28/2016 11:33:23 AM EDT
[Last Edit: WhitewaterRafter]
[#24]
If you want to anneal the cases before forming how do you know where to anneal the case.
Do you have measurements that you mark on the cases? Obviously I have no .300 BLK cases at this time. ETA: I realize the trick must be to resize before trimming, anneal then final trim. After that I'll have a good comparison to go by. Thanks. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 1/28/2016 12:20:01 PM EDT
[#25]
The carbine buffer made all the difference. Completely different rifle now. Still having last round bolt hold open issues. Not sure if maybe the carbine buffer is still heavy or if a powder change could affect that.
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Posted: 1/28/2016 2:20:02 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By AR15Mudder:
The carbine buffer made all the difference. Completely different rifle now. Still having last round bolt hold open issues. Not sure if maybe the carbine buffer is still heavy or if a powder change could affect that. Have you tried a lighter spring? |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 1/28/2016 3:52:51 PM EDT
[#27]
Havent gotten that far yet.
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Posted: 1/31/2016 8:15:54 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By WhitewaterRafter:
If you want to anneal the cases before forming how do you know where to anneal the case. Do you have measurements that you mark on the cases? Obviously I have no .300 BLK cases at this time. ETA: I realize the trick must be to resize before trimming, anneal then final trim. After that I'll have a good comparison to go by. Thanks. Everything you need to learn about annealing for making Blackout cases is in THIS thread. You want to form your cases in this order: > Chop cases to nearly the right length >ANNEAL THE CHOPPED CASES (it's important) >Lube the cases and form them with a standard 300 Blackout sizing die >Trim to final length. Annealing before you form will make it much easier to form the cases, and will give you more consistent case necks. By annealing before forming, I have gotten very consistent neck thickness, regardless of case brand. |
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Posted: 2/1/2016 4:38:24 PM EDT
[#29]
Has anyone converted nickel cases into 300 blackout? I would think that they would be stronger than brass ones.
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GA, USA
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Posted: 2/1/2016 5:00:53 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Norecoil1: Has anyone converted nickel cases into 300 blackout? I would think that they would be stronger than brass ones. I did comm R-P cases. About the same as brass. |
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Posted: 2/1/2016 6:09:43 PM EDT
[#31]
So with nickel I can maybe avoid annealing cases because it should be stronger than brass.
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Posted: 2/1/2016 6:21:28 PM EDT
[#32]
Unless I'm missing something, nickel cases are not made out of nickel. They are still made out of brass and then nickel plated. In most cases that process alone weakens the case and shortens it's life somewhat.
Please correct me if I'm wrong. I've just never heard a nickel case before. |
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Posted: 2/1/2016 7:36:43 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MRBLACK947:
Unless I'm missing something, nickel cases are not made out of nickel. They are still made out of brass and then nickel plated. In most cases that process alone weakens the case and shortens it's life somewhat. Please correct me if I'm wrong. I've just never heard a nickel case before. You are NOT wrong. Nickel cases are NICKEL PLATED BRASS. I think annealing these will still be needed to make the conversion work consistently. |
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Posted: 2/2/2016 2:50:51 PM EDT
[#34]
I've read a couple places that nickel plated brass will wear out your dies much quicker and you may experience more stuck cases.
Couple places said only consider it for pistol not rifle cases |
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Posted: 2/2/2016 5:46:48 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RANGER_556:
I've read a couple places that nickel plated brass will wear out your dies much quicker and you may experience more stuck cases. Couple places said only consider it for pistol not rifle cases Nickel is smoother than brass; there's no reason for it to "wear out your dies" at all. Stuck cases usually come from assuming nickel is slick enough that it won't stick in a die.  Since I lube everything (including pistol brass), that's never been a problem for me.
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Posted: 2/2/2016 11:56:25 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RANGER_556: I've read a couple places that nickel plated brass will wear out your dies much quicker and you may experience more stuck cases. Couple places said only consider it for pistol not rifle cases I've used nickle cases for years in 38 and 357. I don't find that they are hard on dies or split more often. I prefer them over plain brass cases. I always loaded my 308 hunting loads in nickle cases, they always worked fine for me. Haven't had any nickle cases to anneal. If I did, I would thread them the same as brass cases. |
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Posted: 2/3/2016 12:11:50 AM EDT
[#37]
Anyone tried the new 200gr ELD-x for a potential subsonic hunting load?
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Posted: 2/7/2016 3:28:44 AM EDT
[#38]
14.5" 300 blackout build update...
Went out today and did some shooting. Fired 5 rds or the Barnes 110gr TAC TX to compare the report to the Remington 220gr Subs. No issues with either load. Subs are MUCH quieter (no can) Also shot some of the Missouri Bullet Co .245gr Hi-tek coated. loaded at 11.5gr of A1680 I loaded 31 and all feed and fired 100% I did notice that they are very smokey. I thought the coating helped prevent this. This is the 1st time Iv tried cast bullets. Is this normal? I used a lee expander die when I loaded them and they looked to have seated well. No shaved coating/ lead. Crimped just enough to knock the bell out of it. Is it a bad idea to shoot them in a new barrel? I love the idea of cheap reloads, but the smoke kinda sucks. Ideas? Thoughts? Being the bullets are .309, should I think about a expander .001 larger? |
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GA, USA
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Posted: 2/7/2016 9:31:23 AM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mybronco2:
14.5" 300 blackout build update... Went out today and did some shooting. Fired 5 rds or the Barnes 110gr TAC TX to compare the report to the Remington 220gr Subs. No issues with either load. Subs are MUCH quieter (no can) Also shot some of the Missouri Bullet Co .245gr Hi-tek coated. loaded at 11.5gr of A1680 I loaded 31 and all feed and fired 100% I did notice that they are very smokey. I thought the coating helped prevent this. This is the 1st time Iv tried cast bullets. Is this normal? I used a lee expander die when I loaded them and they looked to have seated well. No shaved coating/ lead. Crimped just enough to knock the bell out of it. Is it a bad idea to shoot them in a new barrel? I love the idea of cheap reloads, but the smoke kinda sucks. Ideas? Thoughts? Being the bullets are .309, should I think about a expander .001 larger? Tag for response. I also want to get into casting but not if they are going to smoke. |
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Posted: 2/7/2016 11:36:38 AM EDT
[Last Edit: mybronco2]
[#40]
Im wondering if a new barrel, with sharp edges, and maybe a 1x7 twist is ripping the coating off.
They (MBC) say with the hi-tek coating, they don't need lubed, and don't smoke like cast bullets. I loaded 3 rds of the 245gr and placed 3 rds of the Remington subs on top of them. and when I fired the 4th rd, it was very noticeable. I loaded up 5 or 6 more, and with a 3x scope, rapid fire, by the time the 3rd shot rang out, I was unable to see the target through the scope. When I 1st loaded them I placed 3 live rds in a mag, pulled the charge handle to the rear and let it go...x3 and checked the rds for setback, or being pulled out some from chambering, and wanted to see how beat up they looked. I was very surprised to not even find a ding in the lead. All that was showing was a spiral looking scratch in the coating that was VERY minor. Once I noticed that the mark was going to the right on 2 and the left on 1, I new the rds were rotating in the mag when they fed. At least they fed and are a cheap way to shoot 300 blk.(under .20 delivered) I will have to check the speeds next time out, maybe I can slow them down and get better results. Does anyone know if the Hi-tek coating is the same as powder coating? |
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Posted: 2/7/2016 12:18:37 PM EDT
[#41]
I made a neat discovery yesterday
with the KAC 600M rear sight and a rifle length sight radius, zeroing the rear sight on 200m ( the nearest setting) at 100yd with 150gr supers, gives an excellent 208gr subsonic 100yd zero on the 'z' setting (350m) |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/7/2016 12:59:36 PM EDT
[#42]
Try a different powder. I use 4227 w/powdered coated bullets and get very little smoke.
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Posted: 2/12/2016 10:51:49 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Unkydon]
[#43]
For those of you interested in running cast subsonic bullets this is what I have found that works (at least in my 8" SBR). They are a gas check design that is very similar to the MBC bullet but not coated. I sized and gas checked the bullets then pan lubed. I was able to get 1.75" groups at 100 yds @ 1050 fps using Lil' Gun as the motivator.
Previously the cast bullets I ran were shooting well but were building up some lead on the tail of the bolt and at the muzzle. It was not a huge problem but did require a lot of elbow grease to get the rifle clean. I went to coated bullets and was still having the same problem. Recovered bullets seemed to have slightly melted bases. Going to the gas check design solved the lead problem. Now I will look at running these as a gas checked coated bullet instead of pan lubed. Throughout all of the cast bullets I have run I have never had bore leading problems. 
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Posted: 2/13/2016 2:29:11 AM EDT
[#44]
Have you always used Lil'Gun with the lead?
Everything I read said how great A1680 was with subs, but Im starting to wonder if it doesn't get along well with lead. |
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Posted: 2/13/2016 9:53:58 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Unkydon]
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mybronco2:
Have you always used Lil'Gun with the lead? Everything I read said how great A1680 was with subs, but Im starting to wonder if it doesn't get along well with lead. The best sub group I have fired was with A1680 using Fat-McNasty 219 gr jacketed hollow points (good hunting sub). It is just dirty. I believe, but have not confirmed, that A1680 burns cleaner at higher pressures. The best way I can describe my experience with A1680 is that it seems like it is running "rich" when I run it with subs. But, A1680 has given me the most consistent velocities when I run subs. Lil'gun so far has not been as consistent but it is not bad. Weighing the consistency differences and the cleanliness of the two I like Lil'gun better (also easier to find). I have run both powders with lead in subsonic and have reached the conclusion that without a gas checked bullet (at 1050 fps) I experience lead deposits on the bolt tail, muzzle, and inside gas key. I believe it is because the subs at 1050 fps are experiencing pressures high enough to cause melting (cutting) of the base of the bullet and as the bullet passes the gas port the gasses blast lead into the gas system and then, as it leaves the muzzle, gas escaping around the base of the bullet deposits lead at the muzzle. I will load some non-gas checked MBC 245's down to about 850 fps and see what happens then. ETA: I ran some calculations and the results show pressures are up to 34,000 psi when pushing the 226Gr. bullet to 1050 fps out of an 8" barrel. A 247 gr bullet gets us up to 36,000 psi. So taking into account pressure and time in the bore it makes sense that the unprotected lead base is melting/cutting. Same velocities out of a 16" barrel get the pressures back down to 16,000 and 18,000. So the "problem" is that shorter barrel lengths will require gas checks if trying to achieve velocities just under sonic. If I drop the MBC 245's down to 850 fps out of an 8" barrel it looks like pressures are just under 24,000 psi. |
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Posted: 2/14/2016 2:33:19 AM EDT
[#46]
This is some good info, and the timing is right on.
I loaded a few more and some a little lighter to run for speed. If I have to load these down, to stop melting them down, but still run 100%, Im ok with it. Im shooting a 14.5" if that helps out with your numbers 
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Posted: 2/20/2016 11:04:07 PM EDT
[Last Edit: M4tth3w]
[#47]
Remington .223 brass (case length= 1.375")
Sierra 110gr Varminter HP 17.0gr H110 Coal= 1.970" CCI no.400 8.5" hbar 1 in 8" twist AR15 pistol. Competition Electronics Pro Chrono(in shade) N=15* Avg.= 1977 fps* St.Dev.= 53 fps* Today, 3-4pm, 54°f, 30inhg *shots fired in several sequences with varying barrel temp and and time in the chamber. Chrono did not record several shots resulting in a smaller sample size (22 shots on target). For reference only. 50 yards firing off sandbags. 
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Posted: 2/21/2016 9:53:03 AM EDT
[#48]
Cast and loaded some 225 gr. NOE RG GC bullets with 9.5 gr of IMR 4227. Will try to get out today to see how well they run/shoot.
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Posted: 2/21/2016 10:46:44 AM EDT
[#49]
Those look great Unkydon.
Which mold did you use? |
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Posted: 2/21/2016 10:57:00 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Unkydon]
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
Those look great Unkydon. Which mold did you use? It is the NOE 311-247 FN RG2 Gas Check mold. NOE 247 These cast to about 225gr with the hollow point. 
Has taken a lot of tinkering to get them to run cleanly in the AR platform. I essentially built my SBR around the load. |
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