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Posted: 1/28/2015 2:47:10 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rooster-Cogburn: I've looked through about half of the thread, and I can't find any data for 100 grain using H110. I'm guessing min of 19gr and max of 20.2 (just slightly more powder than the 110gr bullets) Anyone use 220gr Sierra round nose hunters with H110 for subs? If those are the short RN meant for 30 Carbine, the OAL will be too short to feed from a mag. |
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Posted: 1/28/2015 7:06:54 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rooster-Cogburn:
I've looked through about half of the thread, and I can't find any data for 100 grain using H110. I'm guessing min of 19gr and max of 20.2 (just slightly more powder than the 110gr bullets) Anyone use 220gr Sierra round nose hunters with H110 for subs? I've successfully used W296 for 220 gr SMK subs. Pistol gas system, 12.5" barrel. It cycled the bolt and locked back on the last round. |
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Posted: 1/29/2015 11:03:47 AM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ws-6:
unless you have played with the gas port I found lil'gun to not produce enough gas to reliably cycle the gun with subs. I had to switch to a1680. I am wanting to try 5744 though also Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ws-6:
Originally Posted By Toxie:
I shot some of my first reloads this last weekend, all the 150's were 5744, all primers cci400, brass mixed self formed. There were shot out of a 10.5" LMT MRP (for function only) with yhm brake/mount. I'll try to post some pics later of the brass. 110gr. Sierra varmint rounds, 17.8grs. 4227. They shot very softly, was relatively quiet (even w/ a brake) and had zero pressure signs. Zero malfunctions, locked the bolt back. 150 gr. Hornady fmjbt, [email protected] and [email protected]. They all functioned OK, although the 18.2 were starting to show more pressure signs (one cratered primer, some very light ejector marks) which I found surprising as that isn't near max. They were notably louder and had more recoil then the 110's. I think going back down to 17.8 is the ticket there. Also tried some hornady 150gr spbt, [email protected] gr, same as above. Back down to 17.8, and start looking at accuracy. Next up is subs, as I finally scored some lilgun! unless you have played with the gas port I found lil'gun to not produce enough gas to reliably cycle the gun with subs. I had to switch to a1680. I am wanting to try 5744 though also I'm using some 5744 for subsonic loads. In the range of 10.5-11.0 gr I think, but I'm not home to double check the load. Runs fine in my suppressed SBRs-9.5" barrels |
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KS, USA
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Posted: 1/31/2015 4:20:25 PM EDT
[#4]
I am sorry I did not read all 77 pages.
Can any bullet weight be loaded for subsonic? I have some 120 and 168 on hand now. I read that 220 are the best. thanks |
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Posted: 1/31/2015 5:26:54 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By win:
I am sorry I did not read all 77 pages. Can any bullet weight be loaded for subsonic? I have some 120 and 168 on hand now. I read that 220 are the best. thanks For an AR15 the general answer is no. However I have gotten 178gr amax to run subsonic in an AR15. some have claims of lighter then that working. for a single shot or bolt action anything can be loaded subsonic with the right powder. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/1/2015 10:33:45 PM EDT
[#6]
Anyone have a starting load for the 190 SMK?
Just inherited 2000 of 30-06 loaded with same and want to use then in the 300BLK |
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Posted: 2/2/2015 2:48:02 PM EDT
[#7]
Sorry if this question has been asked before. I have several thousand already 556 sized LC 556 brass. Can I convert that to 300 BLK or do I need to use 556 brass that is fired prior to resizing?
Also is there a list of what brass is not OK to convert. |
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Posted: 2/2/2015 3:37:42 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By AKFF: Sorry if this question has been asked before. I have several thousand already 556 sized LC 556 brass. Can I convert that to 300 BLK or do I need to use 556 brass that is fired prior to resizing? Also is there a list of what brass is not OK to convert. The only difference pre sized cases will make is they will form a little easier through the 300 blk sizing die as they are already sized. What not to convert, the headstamp that you happen to not like. For me that's FC. Everyone has their unique experiences with different headstamps. Start saving your 223 cases with a split neck, these will convert fine. Myself, most of my 300 blk cases are LC, WCC, RP and Win. But that's what I had around when I wanted to form cases. I suggest you anneal the case necks prior to forming. Especially with the split neck 223 cases. |
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Posted: 2/2/2015 3:43:26 PM EDT
[#9]
Thanks for all you do around here dryflash. I'm researching annealing as we speak.
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Posted: 2/2/2015 3:58:15 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By AKFF: Thanks for all you do around here dryflash. I'm researching annealing as we speak. Thanks  Made this thread about a week ago to help folks get started. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/439440_Low_budget_Annealing.html |
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SC, USA
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Posted: 2/3/2015 10:58:24 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Johnson184:
Keep hearing great things about the 300 blackout... considering one, but it seems factory ammo is running about $0.70 to $1 a shot. Seems the last several pages have a few guys claiming to have costs down to 10 cents a shot?! I'm not too caught up on the jargon yet, but I'm assuming they're reusing .223 brass to get it down to that cost. How beginner friendly is it to modify/check .223 brass for 300 blackout? Assuming I can reuse the prvi partizan brass I have saved up, can I also reload 300 blackout for about 10 cents a shot? I'm not sure whether you ever had your questions answered so I'll briefly answer from my experience. First of all, I love the round. All I do us punch holes in paper and shoot steel at 100 yds. It's a totally different feel than 5.56 and I like the fact that I can use my 5.56 lower and standard AR mags. I even tried swapping out using the same BCG, but didn't have a lot of success with it so I bought a dedicated one. Although ammo prices seem to be coming down a little, it's still pretty pricey so I consider reloading a must. I shoot Hornady 150gr FMJBT (good plinking round) over H110 and CCI 41 primers My cost per round is 0.28/rd. It's easy to reform 5.56 brass to 300 BLK, but there are a couple things to know such as case wall thickness and headstamps to use or not use. If you start with LC brass, you should be GTG. You'll need a 2" chop saw which is about $30 at Harbor Freight, and a good jig which I think is about the same or a little more. Do some reading about which dies work well for reforming. Basically, Lee dies aren't designed for reforming brass so results are mixed depending on the chamber in your gun. RCBS small base dies are always good but they work the brass more so you might have shorter case life if you use them. The other major brand standard dies are ok to use, but I'd still research it before buying. As an option, you can buy reformed and completely processed brass from a number of places. I've bought from Wildcat Brass and it's really good stuff, completely processed and ready to prime and load. I think Steve at Wildcat sells 1000 cases of LC headstamp for about $119. Remember that you should get between 5 and 10 loadings out of them so that brings the cost way down. Steve is a member on 300blktalk.com which is the best and I think only forum dedicated specifically to 300 BLK. That's a great place to really do your research. That's it in a nutshell. Good luck and if you have any other questions, feel free to PM me. |
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SC, USA
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Posted: 2/3/2015 9:58:28 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryThat's the load I have set up for my first 50, except with Hornady 150 gn bullets. I have also made up 10 rounds each at 15.6, 15.8, 16 and 16.2 When working up my loads I laddered 15.5 to 16.7 in 0.1gr increments. The best ones turned out to be 15.8, 15.9 and 16.0. I settled on 15.8. CCI 41 primers, 2.075 COAL. |
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Posted: 2/3/2015 11:42:37 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ws-6:
unless you have played with the gas port I found lil'gun to not produce enough gas to reliably cycle the gun with subs. I had to switch to a1680. I am wanting to try 5744 though also Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ws-6:
Originally Posted By Toxie:
I shot some of my first reloads this last weekend, all the 150's were 5744, all primers cci400, brass mixed self formed. There were shot out of a 10.5" LMT MRP (for function only) with yhm brake/mount. I'll try to post some pics later of the brass. 110gr. Sierra varmint rounds, 17.8grs. 4227. They shot very softly, was relatively quiet (even w/ a brake) and had zero pressure signs. Zero malfunctions, locked the bolt back. 150 gr. Hornady fmjbt, [email protected] and [email protected]. They all functioned OK, although the 18.2 were starting to show more pressure signs (one cratered primer, some very light ejector marks) which I found surprising as that isn't near max. They were notably louder and had more recoil then the 110's. I think going back down to 17.8 is the ticket there. Also tried some hornady 150gr spbt, [email protected] gr, same as above. Back down to 17.8, and start looking at accuracy. Next up is subs, as I finally scored some lilgun! unless you have played with the gas port I found lil'gun to not produce enough gas to reliably cycle the gun with subs. I had to switch to a1680. I am wanting to try 5744 though also Balls. I guess it'll build good 150gr. Plinkers then. |
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Posted: 2/4/2015 7:45:48 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By We-rBorg:
Anyone have a starting load for the 190 SMK? Just inherited 2000 of 30-06 loaded with same and want to use then in the 300BLK I tested some loads with the 190gr Nosler CC using IMR 4227 in an H&R Handi Rifle. Started around 11.3 and went up to something like 13.6. I do not have my notes in front of me to verify those numbers. The low end had very little recoil, so I assume sans a crhonograpgh that it was right around subsonic. |
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OH, USA
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Posted: 2/4/2015 1:04:47 PM EDT
[#15]
Anyone have a good load for the single shot AAC Handi-Rifle? Just getting started so powder, bullet recommendations are appreciated. I'll be using factory .300BO brass if that helps.
Thanks in advance, SnH |
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Posted: 2/4/2015 10:39:26 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Ramsey118]
[#16]
Anyone measuring Lil Gun through the Lee Auto Disk?
Im having issues finding info on what disk to use. |
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Posted: 2/4/2015 10:49:46 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Ramsey118: Anyone measuring Lil Gun through the Lee Auto Disk? Im having issues finding info on what disk to use. If you don't get an answer in this thread, start a thread and ask. More folks will see your question in your own thread.
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Posted: 2/4/2015 11:09:06 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Ramsey118:
Anyone measuring Lil Gun through the Lee Auto Disk? Im having issues finding info on what disk to use. I have an autodisk and a bunch of disks, but I ended up going with the Lee Auto-Disk Adjustable Powder Charge Bar for making my life a LOT simpler. No more wondering what size holes to add together to get me 'close enough' to the load I wanted. I can now measure out exactly what I want and not have to deal with "too much" or "not quite enough". I'd keep the autodisks on hand for when you're loading up something you can't meter with the adjustable charge bar set up to 1.6 ccs, but for 9mm, .45, .300 blackout (subs and supers), just pick up an adjustable charge bar and be done with it. Your life with a Lee press will be much simpler. |
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Posted: 2/5/2015 12:44:01 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By rob99rt:
I have an autodisk and a bunch of disks, but I ended up going with the Lee Auto-Disk Adjustable Powder Charge Bar for making my life a LOT simpler. No more wondering what size holes to add together to get me 'close enough' to the load I wanted. I can now measure out exactly what I want and not have to deal with "too much" or "not quite enough". I'd keep the autodisks on hand for when you're loading up something you can't meter with the adjustable charge bar set up to 1.6 ccs, but for 9mm, .45, .300 blackout (subs and supers), just pick up an adjustable charge bar and be done with it. Your life with a Lee press will be much simpler. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By rob99rt:
Originally Posted By Ramsey118:
Anyone measuring Lil Gun through the Lee Auto Disk? Im having issues finding info on what disk to use. I have an autodisk and a bunch of disks, but I ended up going with the Lee Auto-Disk Adjustable Powder Charge Bar for making my life a LOT simpler. No more wondering what size holes to add together to get me 'close enough' to the load I wanted. I can now measure out exactly what I want and not have to deal with "too much" or "not quite enough". I'd keep the autodisks on hand for when you're loading up something you can't meter with the adjustable charge bar set up to 1.6 ccs, but for 9mm, .45, .300 blackout (subs and supers), just pick up an adjustable charge bar and be done with it. Your life with a Lee press will be much simpler. Your right. I have been meaning to order the adjustable charge bar for some time now. Just ordered it, Thanks for the push |
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Posted: 2/8/2015 2:57:22 AM EDT
[#20]
Just ordered an adjustable charge bar.
I shot my .300 suppressed for the first time today. I also learned that it won't cycle subsonic ammo unsuppressed. Is that normal? I guess at the end of the day I don't care, because I will be shooting it all suppressed except a few test loads. |
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Posted: 2/8/2015 8:07:48 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rooster-Cogburn:
Just ordered an adjustable charge bar.
I shot my .300 suppressed for the first time today. I also learned that it won't cycle subsonic ammo unsuppressed. Is that normal? I guess at the end of the day I don't care, because I will be shooting it all suppressed except a few test loads. Depends on the barrel manufacture but it is normal as long as it cycles subs with the suppressor on you are GTG. |
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SC, USA
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Posted: 2/9/2015 6:26:17 PM EDT
[#22]
I didnt read all the pages but searched a bit.
Crimp or no crimp on reloading 300 blackout subsonic? Hornady 150gr fmj bt/wc 30 cal. Are they able to be made for subsonic because I got my hands on 700 of them? Will be shooting out of 9 inch AR with aac 762snd6 |
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Posted: 2/9/2015 7:27:31 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By FrostedFlakes:
I didnt read all the pages but searched a bit. Crimp or no crimp on reloading 300 blackout subsonic? Hornady 150gr fmj bt/wc 30 cal. Are they able to be made for subsonic because I got my hands on 700 of them? Will be shooting out of 9 inch AR with aac 762snd6 I do a light crimp. mainly to make sure the brass is flat against the bullet. |
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Posted: 2/9/2015 10:13:38 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rooster-Cogburn: Just ordered an adjustable charge bar. I shot my .300 suppressed for the first time today. I also learned that it won't cycle subsonic ammo unsuppressed. Is that normal? I guess at the end of the day I don't care, because I will be shooting it all suppressed except a few test loads. Its normal according to all the manufactures. May or may not cycle the action unsuprrsed. I worked up my first subsonic load last week 230gr coated cast, 11.4gr 1680. It was cycling the action unsuppressed, but I was right on edge of the sonic barrier. |
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Posted: 2/9/2015 10:43:57 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By FrostedFlakes:
I didnt read all the pages but searched a bit. Crimp or no crimp on reloading 300 blackout subsonic? Hornady 150gr fmj bt/wc 30 cal. Are they able to be made for subsonic because I got my hands on 700 of them? Will be shooting out of 9 inch AR with aac 762snd6 A few have claimed to get the 150s to cycle the action on an AR15 subsoncially. I have not been able to repeat their claims. I frankly cannot see it working, but that is just me. |
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Posted: 2/9/2015 10:56:46 PM EDT
[Last Edit: sheltot]
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rooster-Cogburn:
Just ordered an adjustable charge bar.
I shot my .300 suppressed for the first time today. I also learned that it won't cycle subsonic ammo unsuppressed. Is that normal? I guess at the end of the day I don't care, because I will be shooting it all suppressed except a few test loads. What gas system are you running? I shoot a 12.5" barrel w/a pistol gas system and it cycles 220 gr SMKs running both W296 and A1680. Edit: Finally own a page. To keep relevant, I'll be testing some 208 gr AMax rounds next range trip. Plus, I loaded up some 125 gr Pro-Hunters at 4 different powder charges. Need to break in my chrony! 
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WA, USA
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Posted: 2/10/2015 12:58:05 AM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Ramsey118:
Anyone measuring Lil Gun through the Lee Auto Disk? Im having issues finding info on what disk to use. .06780 is the. VMD for Lil Gun. If that is what you are looking for. |
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IN, USA
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Posted: 2/10/2015 1:11:34 AM EDT
[#28]
Has anyone ran into 300BLK factory crimped primer pockets? I would say 98% of the batch I just re-sized are ones I chopped from .223 cases but there is certainly some factory 300BLK mixed in and I'm wondering....hoping I don't have run them through the swagger.
The factory loads were from: Barnes Gemtech Remington Hornady Thanks |
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Posted: 2/10/2015 10:20:47 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By millsusaf:
Has anyone ran into 300BLK factory crimped primer pockets? I would say 98% of the batch I just re-sized are ones I chopped from .223 cases but there is certainly some factory 300BLK mixed in and I'm wondering....hoping I don't have run them through the swagger. The factory loads were from: Barnes Gemtech Remington Hornady Thanks This is relevant to my interests as well. At a recent gun show, a vendor had what he claimed to be once-fired FACTORY LC 300 Blackout cases made for a "special" unit. This is definitely possible, but that would also mean crimped, once-fired 300 Blackout brass. |
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IN, USA
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Posted: 2/10/2015 2:21:38 PM EDT
[Last Edit: millsusaf]
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter:
This is relevant to my interests as well. At a recent gun show, a vendor had what he claimed to be once-fired FACTORY LC 300 Blackout cases made for a "special" unit. This is definitely possible, but that would also mean crimped, once-fired 300 Blackout brass. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter:
Originally Posted By millsusaf:
Has anyone ran into 300BLK factory crimped primer pockets? I would say 98% of the batch I just re-sized are ones I chopped from .223 cases but there is certainly some factory 300BLK mixed in and I'm wondering....hoping I don't have run them through the swagger. The factory loads were from: Barnes Gemtech Remington Hornady Thanks This is relevant to my interests as well. At a recent gun show, a vendor had what he claimed to be once-fired FACTORY LC 300 Blackout cases made for a "special" unit. This is definitely possible, but that would also mean crimped, once-fired 300 Blackout brass. From what I've found, that "LC 300BLK brass" is just cut down 5.56 LC brass which would mean the primer pockets would have had to been swagged. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think you can re-crimp primer pockets after they have been swagged. |
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Posted: 2/10/2015 3:25:56 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter: This is relevant to my interests as well. At a recent gun show, a vendor had what he claimed to be once-fired FACTORY LC 300 Blackout cases made for a "special" unit. This is definitely possible, but that would also mean crimped, once-fired 300 Blackout brass. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter: Originally Posted By millsusaf: Has anyone ran into 300BLK factory crimped primer pockets? I would say 98% of the batch I just re-sized are ones I chopped from .223 cases but there is certainly some factory 300BLK mixed in and I'm wondering....hoping I don't have run them through the swagger. The factory loads were from: Barnes Gemtech Remington Hornady Thanks This is relevant to my interests as well. At a recent gun show, a vendor had what he claimed to be once-fired FACTORY LC 300 Blackout cases made for a "special" unit. This is definitely possible, but that would also mean crimped, once-fired 300 Blackout brass. The only factory brass I have used is from the 2 boxes of RP that I bought when I first started in this caliber. RP cases are not crimped. |
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AZ, USA
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Posted: 2/10/2015 4:32:18 PM EDT
[#32]
Barnes are not crimped.
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Posted: 2/10/2015 6:00:53 PM EDT
[#33]
Remington white box 220 SMK are not crimped
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GA, USA
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Posted: 2/10/2015 7:23:08 PM EDT
[#34]
I have some Barnes brass that I received from a friend that had a circular crimp.
No more details, it was all in a bag from him. |
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Posted: 2/11/2015 4:17:32 PM EDT
[#35]
I know that some of the R-P brass I have is primer pocket crimped - all have been sealed. I'll try to figure out what it came from and get back at ya'.
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Posted: 2/14/2015 2:47:01 AM EDT
[#36]
Has anyone used any of the 123gr powder coated bullets from lucky13bullets.com? I ended up splitting an order with a buddy to try out. With the powder coated bullets, what is the max velocity that they can be pushed, before you start having leading issues? Also, as far as loading them, does anyone have any loads using H110? Would using the starting load for 125gr jacketed bullets and working up be a good place to start? |
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Posted: 2/14/2015 4:42:04 AM EDT
[#37]
Anyone load the 130gr. Barnes TTSX? Looking for a good starting load for Lil gun, 4227 or 5744.
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Posted: 2/14/2015 9:16:58 AM EDT
[#38]
Originally Posted By Toxie:
Anyone load the 130gr. Barnes TTSX? Looking for a good starting load for Lil gun, 4227 or 5744. Barnes only lists H110 and their 110gr bullet on their page, but is the bearing surface of the Barnes bullet much different from Sierra's 130gr HP? Hodgdon lists loads for H110/W296, Lil' Gun, and I4227 in their online loading data. |
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Posted: 2/14/2015 9:27:19 AM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Toxie:
Anyone load the 130gr. Barnes TTSX? Looking for a good starting load for Lil gun, 4227 or 5744. I started with 18 grains of lil gun with my 130 grain speers |
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Posted: 2/14/2015 6:50:59 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter:
Barnes only lists H110 and their 110gr bullet on their page, but is the bearing surface of the Barnes bullet much different from Sierra's 130gr HP? Hodgdon lists loads for H110/W296, Lil' Gun, and I4227 in their online loading data. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter:
Originally Posted By Toxie:
Anyone load the 130gr. Barnes TTSX? Looking for a good starting load for Lil gun, 4227 or 5744. Barnes only lists H110 and their 110gr bullet on their page, but is the bearing surface of the Barnes bullet much different from Sierra's 130gr HP? Hodgdon lists loads for H110/W296, Lil' Gun, and I4227 in their online loading data. Google shows some results claiming success, but the thread on the hide is gone. The 130gr. Is at least as long as a 150gr. Lead bullet, possibly 165gr. I havent been able to find any barnes 110gr solids locally, but did find a tester pack of the 130's so I figured id give them a shot. |
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Posted: 2/15/2015 1:22:36 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Rooster-Cogburn]
[#41]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
If those are the short RN meant for 30 Carbine, the OAL will be too short to feed from a mag. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
Originally Posted By Rooster-Cogburn:
I've looked through about half of the thread, and I can't find any data for 100 grain using H110. I'm guessing min of 19gr and max of 20.2 (just slightly more powder than the 110gr bullets) Anyone use 220gr Sierra round nose hunters with H110 for subs? If those are the short RN meant for 30 Carbine, the OAL will be too short to feed from a mag. They are the Hornady 100gr FJ, I'm not sure id those are meant for 30 carbine or not. They are pretty damn short, 1.9" COAL is about as long as they get. I loaded a few test rounds and I'm going to give them a try with 18.5 grains of H110. I ended up buying a few Sierra 200 grain HPBT match kings. Anyone have a good subsonic load for these using H110 and a short barrel? Hogdon's and Sierra load data suggests that somewhere between 9 to 10 grains should be subsonic and hopefully will cycle the action. Edit: Ok I tried the 100 grain midget bullets. They fed from a mag and seemed to work fine, though accuracy was horrible. I didn't get enough time to figure out if it was me or the load. I'm guessing they are too short to be accurate out of my barrels. Either that or they need more/less speed. I also tested some subs. 8.5, 9.0 and 9.5 grains of H110 all functioned with 200 gr SMK, in my factory .300 AAC 16" upper (carbine gas) and in my 8" pistol build (pistol gas). All of those loads were subsonic, all failed to cycle unsupressed and only the 9.5 gr locked the bolt back on an empty mag (only on the pistol). I'm guessing 10 grains is getting really close to supersonic. I haven't messed with the factory gas port sizes on either one. I can't set up a chrono at this range, so no hard numbers. I also learned that a lightweight BCG makes running subs even harder, and max coal will try to hang up in a PMAG. |
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Posted: 2/15/2015 1:26:40 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By sheltot:
What gas system are you running? I shoot a 12.5" barrel w/a pistol gas system and it cycles 220 gr SMKs running both W296 and A1680. Edit: Finally own a page. To keep relevant, I'll be testing some 208 gr AMax rounds next range trip. Plus, I loaded up some 125 gr Pro-Hunters at 4 different powder charges. Need to break in my chrony! Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By sheltot:
Originally Posted By Rooster-Cogburn:
Just ordered an adjustable charge bar.
I shot my .300 suppressed for the first time today. I also learned that it won't cycle subsonic ammo unsuppressed. Is that normal? I guess at the end of the day I don't care, because I will be shooting it all suppressed except a few test loads. What gas system are you running? I shoot a 12.5" barrel w/a pistol gas system and it cycles 220 gr SMKs running both W296 and A1680. Edit: Finally own a page. To keep relevant, I'll be testing some 208 gr AMax rounds next range trip. Plus, I loaded up some 125 gr Pro-Hunters at 4 different powder charges. Need to break in my chrony! Pistol length gas on an 8" CMMG barrel. I haven't measured the gas port. I should also mention that I was using Remington factory subs to test the build. I wanted to see how the gun runs factory ammo before tinkering with my own loads. |
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Posted: 2/21/2015 6:27:48 PM EDT
[Last Edit: drfroglegs]
[#43]
Got a question for anyone that has used the 245gr MBC hi-tec coated bullet.
Various people (Rocketman, Rob99rt, etc) have stated they used 2.135" as the COAL. I made up some with this COAL and it will not chamber (without force) and my gauge suggests the bullet is too long (digging into the lands). The bullet also indicates stryations consistent with digging into the lands. Did you guys have this same problem? Has anyone tried a shallower COAL? The striations are ~0.08", which suggests I should be around 2.05" COAL. Anyone had this experience? It has turned out to be impossible to find any load data for this bullet (from any powder manufacturer or MBC). Any help is much appreciated. 
The only mags I have are Magpul, so I can't do the "find your OAL trick" that was suggested in the first page. Any other tricks? |
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Posted: 2/21/2015 7:59:42 PM EDT
[#44]
Well, I'll answer my own question.
I found a few people who report the OAL of the MBC lead 245gr as 2.050" on the 300blk forum. I think that will fix my problem. http://www.300blktalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=141&t=80368&start=60 |
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NC, USA
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Posted: 2/21/2015 8:10:10 PM EDT
[#45]
Ok i just started playing around with annealing my 223 cases look like factory M193, I am using the drill with a socket over a propane torch method. Can someone post pic of a properly annealed 300 blackout case? I am wondering how far below the shoulder to anneal. I am kinda worried about it being such a short case and weakening the case head also is this a safe method of annealing without using Tempilaq?
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Posted: 2/21/2015 9:36:21 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By drfroglegs:
Well, I'll answer my own question. I found a few people who report the OAL of the MBC lead 245gr as 2.050" on the 300blk forum. I think that will fix my problem. http://www.300blktalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=141&t=80368&start=60 Regarding the 245's, see my post back on page 78 regarding what I found with max OAL of a few different bullets (Barnes blue and black tips, 220 grain SMKs, Missouri 245's). I tried using two different ways of measuring the max OAL, and both methods were pretty close except for the 245's... those gave two quite different measurements based upon the method used. Both were shorter than the OAL I was using for my loads, though, and I have taken a better look at rounds I chambered since then and found very light rifling marks. So, I do need to shorten them up a bit. It does make a little better sense now why I get better groups from the Barnes 110 black tips vs the Barnes 110 blue tips... The bullet profile of the blue tips puts them WAY off of the lands (.261"), so that probably contributes to them being somewhat all over the place while the black tips shoot nice groups with the same powder load. Thanks for finding that info on the 245's. |
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Posted: 2/21/2015 11:29:25 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Stiles1410: Ok i just started playing around with annealing my 223 cases look like factory M193, I am using the drill with a socket over a propane torch method. Can someone post pic of a properly annealed 300 blackout case? I am wondering how far below the shoulder to anneal. I am kinda worried about it being such a short case and weakening the case head also is this a safe method of annealing without using Tempilaq? Please reconsider getting some 750 degree Tempilaq. http://www.mcmaster.com/#temperature-indicating-liquid/=w0hzwr $17 I was constantly over annealing before I started using Tempilaq. If you are going the extra step of annealing it just makes sense to do a proper job. |
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NC, USA
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Posted: 2/21/2015 11:43:22 PM EDT
[#48]
I will get some tempilaq Dryflash do you suggest getting some lower temp tempilaq for the case head area? Or if annealed correctly would the case head area ever reach a dangerous "Annealing" temperature?
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Posted: 2/21/2015 11:58:27 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Stiles1410:
I will get some tempilaq Dryflash do you suggest getting some lower temp tempilaq for the case head area? Or if annealed correctly would the case head area ever reach a dangerous "Annealing" temperature? I use both, and I dump the cases in a small bucket of water to prevent the heat from propagating into the body. There is a very significant difference in strength between the body of the case and the neck (once it's been annealed), which is really important to maintain. The head has too much mass to be overheated from just annealing the shoulder, but the body does not. |
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Posted: 2/22/2015 12:22:42 AM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Stiles1410: I will get some tempilaq Dryflash do you suggest getting some lower temp tempilaq for the case head area? Or if annealed correctly would the case head area ever reach a dangerous "Annealing" temperature? Dumping cases in water is a waste of time and causes the unneeded extra step of drying. It's bad enough waiting the 5 minutes for them to cool off. |
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