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Posted: 9/5/2021 9:16:29 AM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By LuxorDeathbed: Anyone messing with the 265 gr ds bullets? I have been fooling around with them with great success. Once i have something zeroed in, will post data. I have used them. Borrowed the mold from DS himself. Cast a bunch up. Worked pretty good as I recall. Using 10.1gr of 1680 I was getting 900fps out of a 8 inch barrel. |
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Posted: 9/11/2021 10:00:29 PM EDT
[#2]
Thought this may be the place to post this.
LT-32 seems to be a powder that works in 300 BO. I did some testing today. I used gordons reloading tool and it doesn't actually list LT-32, so I did my own research and testing using what I know and what I have available as data. USE THE BELOW INFO AT YOUR OWN RISK. I used a 200gr SGK seated to 2.250" COAL and winchester SR primers in SG brass, I am shooting a ruger american bolt action rifle with a 16" barrel. I started at 12.5gr, I had very rounded primer and some soot around the neck. Velocity was around 980 fps. I moved up in increments to 14 gr of LT-32. It gave me 1150 FPS. Velocity was very consistent for all the 14 gr loads. Lowest was 1129, highest was 1154. Cases were not sooty, primers looked great and accuracy was about .6" at 50 yards with an untrained shooter (TheUnicorn). I bet with some tuning, this would be sub moa. |
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Posted: 9/13/2021 7:26:46 PM EDT
[#3]
LT-30 and LT-32 are supposed to be good for subs. Hodgdon’s data center doesn’t list LT-32, but other sources do. LT-30 supposedly has a slightly faster burn rate than 32.
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Posted: 9/21/2021 2:19:44 PM EDT
[#4]
Did not read all 70 pages so if this has already been addressed, please share the page number(s)....
Cutting cases for 300 AAC for the first time. I ordered the Elite 3D jig. Installed it on my HF mini chop saw and now I'm having a hard time getting straight and to the proper OAL. I've adjusted it half-dozen times and still not getting uniform results. I'm shooting for 1.38 OAL but they are coming out all over the place. 1.369, 1.388, etc. Plus they seem to be at a VERY slight angle. We're talking less than a degree but they are able to move in the calipers so it tells me not perfect. Will deburring/trimming take care of the imperfections? If not, what's the trick to getting this to cut perfectly straight and to the correct OAL?? Seems like a fool's errand as neither the saw nor jig seem to be precision instruments. Please share your thoughts, suggestions, and experience. Thanks! |
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Posted: 9/21/2021 3:57:49 PM EDT
[#5]
Your chop saw will get them close, you will still need to do a final trim, camfer, and debur after you run them through your sizing die.
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Posted: 9/21/2021 5:26:23 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By boman250: Your chop saw will get them close, you will still need to do a final trim, camfer, and debur after you run them through your sizing die. This. Aim for enough over your intended basic length that you will always have to trim the formed case. I have the Zep fixture, and it's supposed to cut at a slight angle. I don't know how your fixture indexes cases, but Zep's uses a ball detent in the extractor groove, and it's quite consistent. I'll also add that I always anneal the chopped cases before forming. This makes the brass more formable, and seems to give me more consistent necks. I form with a Hornady sizing die, then trim with my Giraud trimmer, which makes trimming much quicker and easier. |
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Posted: 9/25/2021 1:42:52 AM EDT
[#7]
I just tried loading up some 110Vmax and am getting tons of run-out since the bullet is basically smashing in the case and deforming it slightly. The rounds still drop into a case gauge but I can see the base of the bullet in the neck. I am doing a heavy chamfer with a VLD chamfer tool. I don’t have this issue with the Barnes 110 TacX.
Is anyone using a an expander die to bell the case mouth slightly? I ordered one cause they are cheap, but I’ve only had this issue with this bullet so far. |
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Posted: 9/25/2021 4:45:26 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By chewbacca: I just tried loading up some 110Vmax and am getting tons of run-out since the bullet is basically smashing in the case and deforming it slightly. The rounds still drop into a case gauge but I can see the base of the bullet in the neck. I am doing a heavy chamfer with a VLD chamfer tool. I don't have this issue with the Barnes 110 TacX. Is anyone using a an expander die to bell the case mouth slightly? I ordered one cause they are cheap, but I've only had this issue with this bullet so far. They make 3 lengths in 30 caliber, you want the short one for 30 Carbine. |
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Posted: 9/25/2021 2:57:22 PM EDT
[#9]
+1 for Lyman M die. I mainly load cast with flat base, and even those pills get an impeccable treatment. The M provides a gentle but sufficient expansion to retain the life of your brass. Also great to use before any bullet feeder. I will not load without it.
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IN, USA
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Posted: 9/26/2021 5:59:02 PM EDT
[#10]
Will the m die for 30M1 carbine work ?
Mfg# 7349004 ? |
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Posted: 9/26/2021 9:14:43 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By G15: Will the m die for 30M1 carbine work ? Mfg# 7349004 ? Yes it will. IIRC, it’s what Lyman recommends for 300 Blackout. And mine works well with Blackout brass. Even with jacketed bullets, that little case is hard to get the bullet into with my thick fingers, so any help is good. |
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Posted: 10/8/2021 12:22:44 PM EDT
[Last Edit: FighterFixer1]
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Emt1581: Did not read all 70 pages so if this has already been addressed, please share the page number(s).... Cutting cases for 300 AAC for the first time. I ordered the Elite 3D jig. Installed it on my HF mini chop saw and now I'm having a hard time getting straight and to the proper OAL. I've adjusted it half-dozen times and still not getting uniform results. I'm shooting for 1.38 OAL but they are coming out all over the place. 1.369, 1.388, etc. Plus they seem to be at a VERY slight angle. We're talking less than a degree but they are able to move in the calipers so it tells me not perfect. Will deburring/trimming take care of the imperfections? If not, what's the trick to getting this to cut perfectly straight and to the correct OAL?? Seems like a fool's errand as neither the saw nor jig seem to be precision instruments. Please share your thoughts, suggestions, and experience. Thanks! Cutting 5.56 at the shoulder by itself won't give you a useable case. You absolutely need to trim to square it up and take it the correct length. I just did about 400 with a bandsaw.....really rough cut and not even close to square. Size in the die, tumble the lube off, then run them through the trimmer. I like to cut mine a little long--it makes trimming take longer, but I get really good results. ETA: Out of the 400 I processed yesterday, I had ~15 that just won't fit in the case gauge. Every one of them was British Radway. No problems sizing LC, Win and IMI, but the RORG just will not size properly--annealed or not. |
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Posted: 10/11/2021 9:54:43 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By FighterFixer1: Cutting 5.56 at the shoulder by itself won't give you a useable case. You absolutely need to trim to square it up and take it the correct length. I just did about 400 with a bandsaw.....really rough cut and not even close to square. Size in the die, tumble the lube off, then run them through the trimmer. I like to cut mine a little long--it makes trimming take longer, but I get really good results. ETA: Out of the 400 I processed yesterday, I had ~15 that just won't fit in the case gauge. Every one of them was British Radway. No problems sizing LC, Win and IMI, but the RORG just will not size properly--annealed or not. I ordered a Lyman Xpress Trim (I think that's the name of it. Since I have to give it a shoulder in order for the trimmer to work I'm not sure how I do that first. I'm guessing set the shoulder (not sure of the right term) die to add the shoulder at the correct length from the rim and then the mouth can be trimmed to the correct length. Sound correct? Thanks |
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MD, USA
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Posted: 10/11/2021 10:12:07 AM EDT
[#14]
About to get started processing 223 into 300, so I got some questions:
1. The GSI dies - anyone used them? I have a Mark7 Evo, so doing a two-step-one-toolhead trim setup is not out of the question. 2. Do I need to chop-saw if I use the GSI dies? It doesn't look like it... 3. Does anyone sell milsurp LC brass in bulk anymore, or has that ship long sailed? |
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Posted: 10/11/2021 12:28:00 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Emt1581: I ordered a Lyman Xpress Trim (I think that's the name of it. Since I have to give it a shoulder in order for the trimmer to work I'm not sure how I do that first. I'm guessing set the shoulder (not sure of the right term) die to add the shoulder at the correct length from the rim and then the mouth can be trimmed to the correct length. Sound correct? Thanks Cut the case at about the bottom of the shoulder, then form it (usually with a sizing die) then trim to finished length. Think of it as the trimming you’d do after sizing any rifle case. When you form the case, you will probably push some material enough to lengthen the case anyway. I anneal newly chopped cases before forming them, because I feel that I get more consistent finished cases that way. And sizing to form them feels easier, too. |
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Posted: 10/11/2021 1:02:18 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter: Cut the case at about the bottom of the shoulder, then form it (usually with a sizing die) then trim to finished length. Think of it as the trimming you’d do after sizing any rifle case. When you form the case, you will probably push some material enough to lengthen the case anyway. I anneal newly chopped cases before forming them, because I feel that I get more consistent finished cases that way. And sizing to form them feels easier, too. Appreciate the clarification. I'll give it a whirl and see how it turns out. Thanks |
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Posted: 10/11/2021 2:23:32 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Emt1581: Appreciate the clarification. I'll give it a whirl and see how it turns out. Thanks  My case forming process, I get better results if I anneal before forming the neck. Deburring is important. It's not hard to anneal or cost a fortune. https://www.ar15.com/forums/armory/Low-budget-Annealing/42-439440/ |
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Posted: 10/11/2021 2:52:03 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: https://i.imgur.com/O6wRyUJl.jpg My case forming process, I get better results if I anneal before forming the neck. Deburring is important. It's not hard to anneal or cost a fortune. https://www.ar15.com/forums/armory/Low-budget-Annealing/42-439440/ Just curious how many cases 2oz of the Tempilaq will do? Wasn't planning on annealing but if it yields that dramatic of a result improvement, might try it. Thanks |
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Posted: 10/11/2021 3:13:00 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Emt1581: Just curious how many cases 2oz of the Tempilaq will do? Wasn't planning on annealing but if it yields that dramatic of a result improvement, might try it. Thanks I use the method dryflash3 posted about. How many cases from a 2oz bottle of Tempilaq? A bunch of cases. It only takes a tiny dot inside the case mouth, and with a little practice you can get that dot pretty small. You can also thin the stuff, which will stretch it out for even longer. |
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Posted: 10/11/2021 3:20:43 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter: I use the method dryflash3 posted about. How many cases from a 2oz bottle of Tempilaq? A bunch of cases. It only takes a tiny dot inside the case mouth, and with a little practice you can get that dot pretty small. You can also thin the stuff, which will stretch it out for even longer. A bunch as in hundreds or thousands? What do you use to thin it out? No clue what a bottle costs, but I'm more concerned with it as a component of the process I'll need to have a supply of to make rounds. If a bottle will keep/store for 10+ years this is less of an issue than something that'll spoil in 1-2 years. Thanks |
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Posted: 10/11/2021 4:44:26 PM EDT
[#21]
I just ordered an upper in blackout
 Already have dies, brass, etc. Planning on using the Lee 312-1602R mold -- checked and PC. But of course published data for this bullet is basically non-existent. Of the powders generally listed as within blackout range I have 2400, H110, and SW Blackout. Does anyone have starting loads for these powders in this bullet? Thanks,  |
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Posted: 10/11/2021 5:31:44 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Emt1581]
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TribunusSanGeorgii: I just ordered an upper in blackout Already have dies, brass, etc. Planning on using the Lee 312-1602R mold -- checked and PC. But of course published data for this bullet is basically non-existent. Of the powders generally listed as within blackout range I have 2400, H110, and SW Blackout. Does anyone have starting loads for these powders in this bullet? Thanks, Do you have a reloading manual? I use Lyman's and I'm not sure if it'll have a recipe for your specific bullet (I have to look) but that's one way of getting on aside from what others on here can contribute. Personally, I've been curious if it's possible to get a 125gr or similarly light weight bullet to perform as a subsonic. |
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Posted: 10/11/2021 6:02:31 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Emt1581: I have several manuals, but none with lead data for blackout including the Lyman Cast manual. I should add that I'm not new to reloading, just this cartridge. |
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Posted: 10/11/2021 6:03:39 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Emt1581: A bunch as in hundreds or thousands? What do you use to thin it out? No clue what a bottle costs, but I'm more concerned with it as a component of the process I'll need to have a supply of to make rounds. If a bottle will keep/store for 10+ years this is less of an issue than something that'll spoil in 1-2 years. Thanks Tempilaq makes a thinner for their products. After using my bottle to anneal several hundred (300? Maybe more) I can’t see much difference in how full that bottle is. I’d say at least a couple thousand cases if you’re following their instructions. |
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Posted: 10/11/2021 7:41:37 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TribunusSanGeorgii: I have several manuals, but none with lead data for blackout including the Lyman Cast manual. I should add that I'm not new to reloading, just this cartridge. Didn't know Lyman has a "cast" manual. Learned something new today. I asked a similar question for a different bullet and took from advice that I should find the closest matching recipe, start at the low end (powder-wise) and work my way up. Hopefully someone wiser than I can chime in with something more helpful. |
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Posted: 10/11/2021 7:42:24 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter: Tempilaq makes a thinner for their products. After using my bottle to anneal several hundred (300? Maybe more) I can’t see much difference in how full that bottle is. I’d say at least a couple thousand cases if you’re following their instructions. Good to know. Thanks for sharing! |
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Posted: 10/12/2021 1:33:54 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter: Tempilaq makes a thinner for their products. After using my bottle to anneal several hundred (300? Maybe more) I can’t see much difference in how full that bottle is. I’d say at least a couple thousand cases if you’re following their instructions. Bought a bottle. Just need to stock up on blow torch canisters unless there's some way of using propane tanks from my griddle. I have 4-6 of those suckers stored up. I can sit out on my (covered) patio and "anneal" an assload of these in an afternoon. But knowing nothing about annealing other than the Templilaq and blow torch being involved, going to need to educate myself on how to do it. |
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Posted: 10/12/2021 1:46:32 PM EDT
[#28]
Your grill’s propane tank may need an adapter, but camping stove propane tanks fit my torch just fine.
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Posted: 10/12/2021 3:48:23 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Emt1581: Bought a bottle. Just need to stock up on blow torch canisters unless there's some way of using propane tanks from my griddle. I have 4-6 of those suckers stored up. I can sit out on my (covered) patio and "anneal" an assload of these in an afternoon. But knowing nothing about annealing other than the Templilaq and blow torch being involved, going to need to educate myself on how to do it. Adaptor I got at Harbor Freight. Read the thread I posted as to how to anneal. Get a LC once fired 233 or 308 to compare the annealing with. Your results should look the same. |
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Posted: 10/12/2021 6:12:00 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: Get a LC once fired 233 or 308 to compare the annealing with. Your results should look the same. I found that some of my annealed pre-300 cases had a more pronounced annealed look than others. And it “developed” over a few minutes. Don’t be surprised if random cases don’t “match” the LC brass’ look. It should be quite similar on most, but maybe not perfectly the same. |
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PA, USA
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Posted: 10/12/2021 8:38:08 PM EDT
[#31]
I have Hornady dies. One of the features I really like is the floating chamber seating die.
I’m done forming brass for awhile and I’m looking into setting up a toolhead for my Dillon 550. I have everything I need except the powder funnel. Dillon says I can use funnel AK or, if I use funnel C for .30 Carbine I can get case flaring. The floating chamber seater aligns cast bullets really well, but just a little flare might be a good thing. Has anyone used the C funnel with Hornady dies to confirm whether or not a light flare interferes with the neck in the floating chamber of the seater? |
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Posted: 10/12/2021 8:50:18 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bigdb1: Has anyone used the C funnel with Hornady dies to confirm whether or not a light flare interferes with the neck in the floating chamber of the seater? In for the answer on this. I have the C funnel, but I haven't set up to load 300 Blackout on my Dillon yet. However, I will be loading both Blackout and .30 Carbine on it, so it made sense to get the C funnel. |
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Posted: 10/12/2021 9:08:57 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bigdb1: I have Hornady dies. One of the features I really like is the floating chamber seating die. I’m done forming brass for awhile and I’m looking into setting up a toolhead for my Dillon 550. I have everything I need except the powder funnel. Dillon says I can use funnel AK or, if I use funnel C for .30 Carbine I can get case flaring. The floating chamber seater aligns cast bullets really well, but just a little flare might be a good thing. Has anyone used the C funnel with Hornady dies to confirm whether or not a light flare interferes with the neck in the floating chamber of the seater? Havent used Hornady seater but I have used a Forester with a floating chamber and it was fine with the mild flair. |
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Posted: 10/12/2021 10:55:04 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Emt1581: Do you have a reloading manual? I use Lyman's and I'm not sure if it'll have a recipe for your specific bullet (I have to look) but that's one way of getting on aside from what others on here can contribute. Personally, I've been curious if it's possible to get a 125gr or similarly light weight bullet to perform as a subsonic. 125gr with imr 4198 or h4198 , starting at 135gr rl7 is also listed this is listed for a 16" barrel with a 1:8 twist sierra |
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Posted: 10/13/2021 12:31:31 AM EDT
[#35]
A buddy insists that accurate #9 made very quiet subs for him so I have a lb coming and 2 more of h110 to share between the 300 and 357.
My 4227 subs cycle fine and are plenty accurate but I think theyre fairly noisy. |
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Posted: 10/13/2021 8:03:21 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By shelbysguns: A buddy insists that accurate #9 made very quiet subs for him so I have a lb coming and 2 more of h110 to share between the 300 and 357. My 4227 subs cycle fine and are plenty accurate but I think theyre fairly noisy. Curious on your findings, I think my 4227 loads are fairly quiet. |
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Posted: 10/13/2021 9:00:08 AM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 1iviper: sierra shows data for subs down to 110gr with imr4198 125gr with imr 4198 or h4198 , starting at 135gr rl7 is also listed this is listed for a 16" barrel with a 1:8 twist sierra Excellent! Thanks for sharing the info!! |
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Posted: 10/13/2021 9:50:56 AM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By UndrGrndPrdcts: Curious on your findings, I think my 4227 loads are fairly quiet. Whats your load data? Heres what I can recall off the top of my head for mine. 9.7/9.6grn of 4227 190smk/220noslerCC/220 berrys 2.100 roughly coal |
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Posted: 10/13/2021 11:11:29 AM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By shelbysguns: Whats your load data? Heres what I can recall off the top of my head for mine. 9.7/9.6grn of 4227 190smk/220noslerCC/220 berrys 2.100 roughly coal Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By shelbysguns: Originally Posted By UndrGrndPrdcts: Curious on your findings, I think my 4227 loads are fairly quiet. Whats your load data? Heres what I can recall off the top of my head for mine. 9.7/9.6grn of 4227 190smk/220noslerCC/220 berrys 2.100 roughly coal Not 100% sure offhand but I believe almost identical. Want to say 9.5 gr 4227, 220 berrys, 2.100 coal |
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Posted: 10/13/2021 11:42:18 AM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By UndrGrndPrdcts: Not 100% sure offhand but I believe almost identical. Want to say 9.5 gr 4227, 220 berrys, 2.100 coal Im also getting a ton of unburnt powder. I guess i should try a magnum primer. |
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Posted: 10/13/2021 12:17:39 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By shelbysguns: Im also getting a ton of unburnt powder. I guess i should try a magnum primer. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By shelbysguns: Originally Posted By UndrGrndPrdcts: Not 100% sure offhand but I believe almost identical. Want to say 9.5 gr 4227, 220 berrys, 2.100 coal Im also getting a ton of unburnt powder. I guess i should try a magnum primer. I use cci 41s and I dont notice that. |
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Posted: 10/13/2021 12:38:01 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By shelbysguns: Im also getting a ton of unburnt powder. I guess i should try a magnum primer. https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1301123611?pid=717674 |
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PA, USA
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Posted: 10/13/2021 3:19:16 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter: In for the answer on this. I have the C funnel, but I haven't set up to load 300 Blackout on my Dillon yet. However, I will be loading both Blackout and .30 Carbine on it, so it made sense to get the C funnel. I forgot that I had a Lee universal expander I traded into some time back. I put a .010 bell on a case and seated a casting. The Hornady seater had no issues and removed the bell in the crimp portion. Now a new issue that just occurred to me... with charges filling the case well into the neck, will a pistol type funnel that inserts into the case be an issue? I'm thinking spilled powder. At least the 550 won't try to move the case before I move it. |
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Posted: 10/13/2021 3:38:15 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryIronically I just picked up a box from them yesterday. Pick up saves shipping/hazmat and theyre 25minutes away. Not a great price but cheaper than anywhere else once you add hazmat and shipping. I have plenty of 450 and 41 on hand. I use them from my hot 223 stuff. I just used whatever on my 300blk stuff bcus its so low pressure. Never thought about lack of ignition. Think most of this batch is magtech. |
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Posted: 10/13/2021 3:40:40 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bigdb1: I forgot that I had a Lee universal expander I traded into some time back. I put a .010 bell on a case and seated a casting. The Hornady seater had no issues and removed the bell in the crimp portion. Now a new issue that just occurred to me... with charges filling the case well into the neck, will a pistol type funnel that inserts into the case be an issue? I'm thinking spilled powder. At least the 550 won't try to move the case before I move it. I thought about this issue on the last 19.3grn h110 super loads. It didnt seem to touch but I see your point. I did have to put a rubber band on the pm as a return spring as I was having leakage. |
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Posted: 10/13/2021 4:23:16 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 1iviper: sierra shows data for subs down to 110gr with imr4198 125gr with imr 4198 or h4198 , starting at 135gr rl7 is also listed this is listed for a 16" barrel with a 1:8 twist sierra Wanted to come back to this.... seems like using a 125gr and then 4198 seriously cuts the nuts off the round. Ft/lbs is 289 compared to 538-587 for the heavier 220-240 bullets. And coming out of a 7.5" barrel makes it even lighter than that. IIRC that's even lighter than some 115gr. 9mm loads. I'd be curious what the effective range of something like that would be? Also curious if I can add a grain or two of powder to get more oomph but still be under the sound barrier? Ultimately I think I'm going to save my 125gr jacketed bullets for supersonic rounds. I'll use my 230gr Lee bullets for the subs. Thanks |
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Posted: 10/13/2021 4:25:23 PM EDT
[#47]
I use WSP and CCI 400s with both Lil’ Gun and IMR4227 without any unburnt powder issues. I think there might be something else going on rather than “magnum powder ignition” issues.
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Posted: 10/13/2021 4:28:44 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Emt1581: Wanted to come back to this.... seems like using a 125gr and then 4198 seriously cuts the nuts off the round. Ft/lbs is 289 compared to 538-587 for the heavier 220-240 bullets. And coming out of a 7.5" barrel makes it even lighter than that. IIRC that's even lighter than some 115gr. 9mm loads. I'd be curious what the effective range of something like that would be? Also curious if I can add a grain or two of powder to get more oomph but still be under the sound barrier? Ultimately I think I'm going to save my 125gr jacketed bullets for supersonic rounds. I'll use my 230gr Lee bullets for the subs. Thanks Yeah since all subs have a velocity cap going heavier in bullet is the answer. Look at 45-70. Tons of sub loads but all have lots of energy. Light 300blk subs is mostly about cost imo. People like subs for plinking as theyre quiet and lighter bullets cost less. |
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Posted: 10/13/2021 4:29:22 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter: I use WSP and CCI 400s with both Lil’ Gun and IMR4227 without any unburnt powder issues. I think there might be something else going on rather than “magnum powder ignition” issues. What do you suggest? My friend said he tried 4227 and had a similar problem. |
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Posted: 10/13/2021 5:00:34 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By shelbysguns: Yeah since all subs have a velocity cap going heavier in bullet is the answer. Look at 45-70. Tons of sub loads but all have lots of energy. Light 300blk subs is mostly about cost imo. People like subs for plinking as theyre quiet and lighter bullets cost less. Is there any actual utility to them for defense, home defense or even offense? Like would the military ever use such a creature for any operations.... a 125gr bullet pushing <300ft.lbs? Seems like it's a true cowboy load for 10-20' max range. |
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