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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/4/2017 12:10:45 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter:
Give a few a try and see what happens. In my experience, most of the "neck too thick" issues people have with converting brass has more to do with how they do the forming than the cases themselves. I chop cases, then anneal them before forming. I chop my cases a bit long - long enough that they need a bit of trimming after forming as well. I've gone through a lot of different headstamps that "the list" on 300 BlkTalk says are "no go" because of "thick necks" and not had a single issue. I believe this is because the annealing makes the neck conform both to the sizing die and the expander ball, which should adjust the thickness of the brass in the process. I KNOW that annealing reduces forming effort. I considered trying to anneal my converted brass but I have yet to have any issues with what I have besides Geco. What is the easiest way to anneal cases before sizing? I figured just stand a bunch up and hit them with a torch then drop in water. |
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Posted: 2/4/2017 12:25:59 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Aby001:
I considered trying to anneal my converted brass but I have yet to have any issues with what I have besides Geco. What is the easiest way to anneal cases before sizing? I figured just stand a bunch up and hit them with a torch then drop in water. This is what I do... |
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Posted: 2/4/2017 12:50:39 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter:
Give a few a try and see what happens. In my experience, most of the "neck too thick" issues people have with converting brass has more to do with how they do the forming than the cases themselves. I chop cases, then anneal them before forming. I chop my cases a bit long - long enough that they need a bit of trimming after forming as well. I've gone through a lot of different headstamps that "the list" on 300 BlkTalk says are "no go" because of "thick necks" and not had a single issue. I believe this is because the annealing makes the neck conform both to the sizing die and the expander ball, which should adjust the thickness of the brass in the process. I KNOW that annealing reduces forming effort. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter:
Originally Posted By Aby001:
Anyone converted Wolf gold to 300 brass? Wondering if the neck is too thick, I know Geco brass won't work as I've already tried. I have a ton of Wolf, just want to know if it's worth converting or not. Give a few a try and see what happens. In my experience, most of the "neck too thick" issues people have with converting brass has more to do with how they do the forming than the cases themselves. I chop cases, then anneal them before forming. I chop my cases a bit long - long enough that they need a bit of trimming after forming as well. I've gone through a lot of different headstamps that "the list" on 300 BlkTalk says are "no go" because of "thick necks" and not had a single issue. I believe this is because the annealing makes the neck conform both to the sizing die and the expander ball, which should adjust the thickness of the brass in the process. I KNOW that annealing reduces forming effort. The above has been my experience also. I think the list is in error, at least it has been for me. The "secret" is to anneal the case before forming the shoulder. Annealing is easy, Low budget annealing |
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Posted: 2/4/2017 12:54:24 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Aby001:
I considered trying to anneal my converted brass but I have yet to have any issues with what I have besides Geco. What is the easiest way to anneal cases before sizing? I figured just stand a bunch up and hit them with a torch then drop in water. If annealing is done correctly, no water is used. Click on the link I provided to lean the simple way to anneal. |
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USA
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Posted: 2/15/2017 9:27:15 PM EDT
[#5]
I have a box of ZMAX 110 grains coming. What would be the best powder to use with it that'll give the best velocities? I keep seeing a lot of h110 and lil gun recommendations
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Posted: 2/15/2017 9:55:30 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Northwood:
I have a box of ZMAX 110 grains coming. What would be the best powder to use with it that'll give the best velocities? I keep seeing a lot of h110 and lil gun recommendations You see those recommendations because both H110 and Lil' Gun are great powders for light bullets in 300 Blackout. In fact Lil'Gun is a good all-around powder for supersonic loads in Blackout. I've used Lil'Gun with 110 grain bullets with good results. I keep my H110 for .30 Carbine. 
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Posted: 2/16/2017 10:28:16 PM EDT
[#7]
I tried my hand at some of the new Rainier 'Wedge ' expanding subsonic 180gr projectiles.
Formed Winchester brass, CCI450 primers, IMR 4227, COAL 2.09 Stared at 10.4 went down to 9.4 in 0.2gr increments. Shot through a Daniel Defense 10.3 pistol. Bolt sort of locked back on an empty magazine, but only just barely on the tip of the bolt catch. I'm guessing the rounds weren't putting out enough pressure to cycle. Produced nice round holes so they're stabilizing. Had quite a few rounds get caught on the feedramps. Does that mean I need shorter or longer COAL? Doing the .25 caliper score and length set to magazine bump gets me a COAL of 1.990-1.995. Is that dangerously short? |
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Posted: 2/17/2017 12:53:33 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
Does your barrel have M4 feed ramps? Those are for 223. As in too narrow for blunt .308 bullets. Last weekend I opened them up on my 300 blk barrel. I was having trouble feeding the Lee 200 gr RN. The 160 gr fed fine. When I was done 200 gr dummy rounds were hand feeding from the mag, which it wouldn't do before I started. I used a Dremel and a small sanding drum. Then a polishing felt drum. Don't attempt this unless you are "handy". I'll try and get some pics later. |
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Posted: 2/17/2017 6:59:44 PM EDT
[#10]
hey I have a question about brass.
when I first got my 300 I bought some pre-processed brass that I found was around headspaced at 1.062 (+- .002). when I check the headspace on fired factory ammo (usually barnes which starts at 1.065) it is 1.076. if I size to 1.074, the bolt will not close. at 1.070 it will close sometimes. what is the deal with it? I have never had to adjust headspace that much on OF brass. barrel is a noveske 8.5 1:7 twist if it matters |
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Posted: 2/17/2017 10:16:27 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ws-6:
hey I have a question about brass. when I first got my 300 I bought some pre-processed brass that I found was around headspaced at 1.062 (+- .002). when I check the headspace on fired factory ammo (usually barnes which starts at 1.065) it is 1.076. if I size to 1.074, the bolt will not close. at 1.070 it will close sometimes. what is the deal with it? I have never had to adjust headspace that much on OF brass. barrel is a noveske 8.5 1:7 twist if it matters The SAAMI minimum chamber headspace dimension is 1.0789", so all of those sized cases should chamber properly. That makes me think it's NOT an actual headspace issue, but rather some other part of the case that isn't sized down enough to let the cases settle into the chamber properly. |
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Posted: 2/17/2017 11:25:52 PM EDT
[#12]
Remember if you are using a Hornady headspace tool or equal, the number you come up with will not transfer over to a SAMMI chamber.
These are headspace compairitors even though the name headspace gauge is thrown around. They are used to measure a case fired in your chamber, then using that number, to set the amount of shoulder setback you desire. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/18/2017 1:34:26 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
I used a Dremel and a small sanding drum. Then a polishing felt drum. Don't attempt this unless you are "handy". Can you post a picture of this? I think I need to do the same. The Rainer 180 hp bullets are jamming up on my feed ramps maybe one out of every 10. I want to eliminate it even though it's is accasional. It looks like the Rainer 180 hp is a happy medium for cheap bullets and accuracy. I shot off 45 today using 8 gr of lil gun with coal of 2.0 rusulting in 1.5 moa during rapid fire. I know these can do 1 moa and under if I were to try. I plan to load some up the A1680, I've been using Lil Gun because that was all my supply house had when I got started on 300 blk. It has worked good for me using Hornady ELD and match 208gr bullets. |
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Posted: 2/18/2017 1:40:01 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Rickesis]
[#14]
I'm just getting started in loading blk (and handloading in general), and I got my first 205 cases prepped and primed tonight. I'm having trouble finding much data anywhere for sub bullets with CFE BLK. The main ones I see are 208 AMAX, 220 SMK, and cast bullets (not an option). I understand the AMAX has been replaced by the ELD, so I assume the AMAX loads would translate.
Are there any other economical sub bullets and data to go with them? My end goal is to use the Nosler Ballistic Tip Hunting 220 grain bullets to hunt with, but I need something to plink with until they're available. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/18/2017 1:58:08 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rickesis:
I'm just getting started in loading blk (and handloading in general), and I got my first 205 cases prepped and primed tonight. I'm having trouble finding much data anywhere for sub bullets with CFE BLK. The main ones I see are 208 AMAX, 220 SMK, and cast bullets (not an option). I understand the AMAX has been replaced by the ELD, so I assume the AMAX loads would translate. Are there any other economical sub bullets and data to go with them? My end goal is to use the Nosler Ballistic Tip Hunting 220 grain bullets to hunt with, but I need something to plink with until they're available. Economical bullets I just got some of these and I'm using the same load data I was using for my 208 Hornady bullets with great results. I think this is as cheap as it gets without casting your own. I also recovered some of these bullets at 100 yards, they do more than any other plated bullet at subsonic velocity(besides all copper) that you can get. I wouldn't say they expand but the nose will crush. I had about 1 out of 10 go through both both sides of a 10 ply tire. |
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Posted: 2/18/2017 11:20:24 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rickesis:
I'm just getting started in loading blk (and handloading in general), and I got my first 205 cases prepped and primed tonight. I'm having trouble finding much data anywhere for sub bullets with CFE BLK. The main ones I see are 208 AMAX, 220 SMK, and cast bullets (not an option). I understand the AMAX has been replaced by the ELD, so I assume the AMAX loads would translate. Are there any other economical sub bullets and data to go with them? My end goal is to use the Nosler Ballistic Tip Hunting 220 grain bullets to hunt with, but I need something to plink with until they're available. Bullets Some load data Just a suggestion. |
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Posted: 2/18/2017 11:33:31 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rickesis:
I'm just getting started in loading blk (and handloading in general), and I got my first 205 cases prepped and primed tonight. I'm having trouble finding much data anywhere for sub bullets with CFE BLK. The main ones I see are 208 AMAX, 220 SMK, and cast bullets (not an option). I understand the AMAX has been replaced by the ELD, so I assume the AMAX loads would translate. Are there any other economical sub bullets and data to go with them? My end goal is to use the Nosler Ballistic Tip Hunting 220 grain bullets to hunt with, but I need something to plink with until they're available. If you can't find what you want in the on line data, then either call or email them for data with your bullets. |
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Posted: 2/18/2017 11:34:40 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Aby001:
Can you post a picture of this? I think I need to do the same. The Rainer 180 hp bullets are jamming up on my feed ramps maybe one out of every 10. I want to eliminate it even though it's is accasional. It looks like the Rainer 180 hp is a happy medium for cheap bullets and accuracy. I shot off 45 today using 8 gr of lil gun with coal of 2.0 rusulting in 1.5 moa during rapid fire. I know these can do 1 moa and under if I were to try. I plan to load some up the A1680, I've been using Lil Gun because that was all my supply house had when I got started on 300 blk. It has worked good for me using Hornady ELD and match 208gr bullets. |
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Posted: 2/18/2017 11:44:01 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
Remember if you are using a Hornady headspace tool or equal, the number you come up with will not transfer over to a SAMMI chamber. These are headspace compairitors even though the name headspace gauge is thrown around. They are used to measure a case fired in your chamber, then using that number, to set the amount of shoulder setback you desire. what do you need from me to help with this? using the number 350 insert for the hornady gauge. OAL is 1.357 on a case that won't chamber right. it will fit into my sheridian case gauge without issue and the shoulder does line up with the gauge |
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Posted: 2/19/2017 12:01:20 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ws-6:
what do you need from me to help with this? using the number 350 insert for the hornady gauge. OAL is 1.357 on a case that won't chamber right. it will fit into my sheridian case gauge without issue and the shoulder does line up with the gauge Set sizing die to size .004 less than your number. Chamber and eject case. If that works, write down this number in your reloading data and keep it handy. If you had to mortar case out, adjust sizing die down 1/16 turn and repeat. Repeat as needed. When sizing die is adjusted, write down the (Hornady headspace gauge) number in your reloading data and keep it handy. No experience with a Sheridan case gauge. |
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Posted: 2/19/2017 12:23:25 AM EDT
[Last Edit: ws-6]
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
Measure (Hornady headspace gauge) several cases fired from you rifle. Write down that number in your reloading data and keep it handy. Set sizing die to size .004 less than your number. Chamber and eject case. If that works, write down this number in your reloading data and keep it handy. If you had to mortar case out, adjust sizing die down 1/16 turn and repeat. Repeat as needed. When sizing die is adjusted, write down the (Hornady headspace gauge) number in your reloading data and keep it handy. No experience with a Sheridan case gauge. thanks, I will have to keep shortening it then. I was already bumping .007 and it was hard to get to eject. never had this bad an issue on anything else I load (.223, .308 and 30-06). |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/19/2017 1:19:02 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
Do you have a demmel and are you "handy" working on guns? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
Originally Posted By Aby001:
Can you post a picture of this? I think I need to do the same. The Rainer 180 hp bullets are jamming up on my feed ramps maybe one out of every 10. I want to eliminate it even though it's is accasional. It looks like the Rainer 180 hp is a happy medium for cheap bullets and accuracy. I shot off 45 today using 8 gr of lil gun with coal of 2.0 rusulting in 1.5 moa during rapid fire. I know these can do 1 moa and under if I were to try. I plan to load some up the A1680, I've been using Lil Gun because that was all my supply house had when I got started on 300 blk. It has worked good for me using Hornady ELD and match 208gr bullets. Yes and yes, I have all the small attachments to sand and polish. I would just like and idea of how much more to do. |
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Posted: 2/19/2017 10:24:20 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Realtree86]
[#23]
I am trying to find data for a 147gr .308 FMJ for 300blk using Hodgdon CFE BLK but I guess the powder is too new for any data. I even have the 2017 Hodgdon reloading manual but it skips over it. So please if someone could help me or put me in the right direction with this I have looked about everywhere I could think of thanks. May call or email Hodgdon?
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Posted: 2/19/2017 11:22:10 PM EDT
[#24]
I shot my first loads of 208 ELD Match over 11.6 gr of CFE BLK today. No velocity data, but they were indeed subs in my 9" barrel. No surprises there. A hasty 10 shot group with 3x ACOG at 100 measured about 3". Good enough for my needs.
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Posted: 2/20/2017 12:42:28 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Aby001:
Yes and yes, I have all the small attachments to sand and polish. I would just like and idea of how much more to do. I am a home hobbyist and not a professional gunsmith, with the disclaimer out of the way, 3 pics slightly different angles after I was done. 
The 300 blk case and 30 cal bullet are for size reference next to the small sanding drum with fine sand paper and the polishing drum. The black bar is the steel polishing medium you put on the polishing drum. Be sure to clean the barrel extension well and run a couple of patches through the bore. Good luck. |
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Posted: 2/20/2017 12:51:40 AM EDT
[Last Edit: dryflash3]
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Realtree86:
I am trying to find data for a 147gr .308 FMJ for 300blk using Hodgdon CFE BLK but I guess the powder is too new for any data. I even have the 2017 Hodgdon reloading manual but it skips over it. So please if someone could help me or put me in the right direction with this I have looked about everywhere I could think of thanks. May call or email Hodgdon? The standard practice used when you have like but slightly different components. In this case data for the next heavier bullet. Remember this, as you will use this technique often reloading. eta, for OAL read my post on page 1 and the .250 ogive rule. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/20/2017 1:29:06 AM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
I am a home hobbyist and not a professional gunsmith, with the disclaimer out of the way, 3 pics slightly different angles after I was done. The 300 blk case and 30 cal bullet are for size reference next to the small sanding drum with fine sand paper and the polishing drum. The black bar is the steel polishing medium you put on the polishing drum. Be sure to clean the barrel extension well and run a couple of patches through the bore. Good luck. Thanks for the pictures, I'm going to draw reference lines on the barrel extension and do a little at a time until I'm happy with it. This is a must shooting the Rainer bullets in my rifle at least. I've never had an issue with match grade bullets but I can see where the flat tip of these bullets catches the edge of the flat surface by the feed ramps. |
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Posted: 2/20/2017 2:35:23 AM EDT
[#28]
What I did was make the "U" wider at the top. This has the effect of making the ^ between the feed ramps smaller.
My feed ramps would not let a RN 30 cal bullet feed as the "U" was too narrow. I just lightly rested the sanding drum on top of the "U", not trying to change the shape, just the width. |
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Posted: 2/20/2017 3:38:37 AM EDT
[#29]
Regarding the 180gr Rainier Wedge hollowpoints, I tried out 30 rounds at 2.11-2.12 and had great function. Guess I just needed them longer.
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Posted: 2/20/2017 4:08:25 AM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Northwood:
I have a box of ZMAX 110 grains coming. What would be the best powder to use with it that'll give the best velocities? I keep seeing a lot of h110 and lil gun recommendations I use 19.5gr H110 under that bullet at 2.05" and get 2300 FPS from a 16" and 2150 FPS from a 10" |
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Posted: 2/21/2017 7:03:14 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ws-6:
I an using these. They are 203 gr. If you have a canbalas or bass pro close they do have those powders I love those palmetto 203 coated bullets. I did a lot of testing with an 8.5" 1/7 twist and most of the other heavy PC cast I tried started to keyhole out past 100 yards and had a shotgun pattern. The palmettos did not |
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Posted: 2/24/2017 1:43:42 PM EDT
[#32]
Anybody else notice that the published data on Hodgdon's site now shows a max load of 19.4 grains of h110/w296 for the 110 grain bullets? I'm using 20.0 grains of it under the Barnes black tips without any issues, so I'm a little curious as to why they cut the charge weight down. It used to show 20.2, I think, so that's quite a step down.
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Posted: 2/24/2017 4:41:22 PM EDT
[#33]
When data changes, I figure it has something to do with the testing equipment used, barrel, bullets, brass, primers, ect.
I also settled on 20.0 grs H-110 with a 110 gr Barnes Tac-TX. I worked up carefully, so I'm not changing or worrying about my load. |
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Posted: 2/25/2017 10:06:33 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
When data changes, I figure it has something to do with the testing equipment used, barrel, bullets, brass, primers, ect. I also settled on 20.0 grs H-110 with a 110 gr Barnes Tac-TX. I worked up carefully, so I'm not changing or worrying about my load. I'm not either, as that was my most accurate load with that bullet (also used wolf SRM primers, light crimp with fcd, and an oal of 2.25", btw) Just seemed strange to me that they dropped it. At that level I was not getting what I'd consider accurate ammo with that powder. |
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NV, USA
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Posted: 2/27/2017 4:23:24 PM EDT
[#35]
Anyone have sizing issues with lee dies? I am having around 1 in 4 rounds (brass is converted .223) refusing to chamber. Also seems like the seating dies is allowing excessive run out when loading 200gr + projectiles (especially the lee 230gr 5R BT)
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/27/2017 9:30:22 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Aby001:
Thanks for the pictures, I'm going to draw reference lines on the barrel extension and do a little at a time until I'm happy with it. This is a must shooting the Rainer bullets in my rifle at least. I've never had an issue with match grade bullets but I can see where the flat tip of these bullets catches the edge of the flat surface by the feed ramps. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Aby001:
Originally Posted By dryflash3:
I am a home hobbyist and not a professional gunsmith, with the disclaimer out of the way, 3 pics slightly different angles after I was done. The 300 blk case and 30 cal bullet are for size reference next to the small sanding drum with fine sand paper and the polishing drum. The black bar is the steel polishing medium you put on the polishing drum. Be sure to clean the barrel extension well and run a couple of patches through the bore. Good luck. Thanks for the pictures, I'm going to draw reference lines on the barrel extension and do a little at a time until I'm happy with it. This is a must shooting the Rainer bullets in my rifle at least. I've never had an issue with match grade bullets but I can see where the flat tip of these bullets catches the edge of the flat surface by the feed ramps. I finally got a chance to open my feed ramps up a bit, my short coal rounds with large flat tips are feeding great now. I'm in the process of weeding out all my pmags that do not feed well. As far as that goes all my gen 2 and 3 pmags are all over the place as far as feeding 300 blk rounds. I have the ribs filed down already but some of them do not work at all. I just label them 5.56 and go to the stack of mags to try. |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 11:16:20 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Libilaw:
Anyone have sizing issues with lee dies? I am having around 1 in 4 rounds (brass is converted .223) refusing to chamber. Also seems like the seating dies is allowing excessive run out when loading 200gr + projectiles (especially the lee 230gr 5R BT) When I first started (2012) with 300 blk, Lee dies were all you could get. So I used them and they were fine. But all the cases I converted had already been sized in a 223 die. Now that I have Hornady dies, I have had no issue converting unsized 223 cases to 300 blk. Are you annealing the cases after cutting but before forming the shoulder? It makes case forming a breeze. |
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NV, USA
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Posted: 2/28/2017 12:39:36 AM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
I have heard of this before. If you size the 223 cases in a 223 sizer before converting to 300 blk was the cure. Got this from posts early in this thread. When I first started (2012) with 300 blk, Lee dies were all you could get. So I used them and they were fine. But all the cases I converted had already been sized in a 223 die. Now that I have Hornady dies, I have had no issue converting unsized 223 cases to 300 blk. Are you annealing the cases after cutting but before forming the shoulder? It makes case forming a breeze. Have not been annealing before forming, ill try that next time. I wonder if the die is a little on the large size and the brass springback is just enough to create this issue. Looks like hornady dies are in my future.... On another note IMR 4227 cycles my gun wonderfully in the 9.5-10 gr area, but after 100 rounds my AR is about as dirty as 1000 5.56 rounds suppressed. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/28/2017 12:58:32 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Aby001]
[#39]
Double tap
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Posted: 2/28/2017 1:02:12 AM EDT
[Last Edit: mybronco2]
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By rob99rt:
Anybody else notice that the published data on Hodgdon's site now shows a max load of 19.4 grains of h110/w296 for the 110 grain bullets? I'm using 20.0 grains of it under the Barnes black tips without any issues, so I'm a little curious as to why they cut the charge weight down. It used to show 20.2, I think, so that's quite a step down. Something about 19.4 rang a bell, so I Looked at my notes... At 19.4gr I was just under the factory Barnes load for velocity. Guess they dont want us loading faster than them eta....also load 20.0 |
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Posted: 3/4/2017 6:05:29 PM EDT
[Last Edit: mybronco2]
[#41]
Went and sighted in the SBR today.
Shooting 208gr ELD Match over 11.2 gr of A1680 After playing with my app (shooter) Im seeing for subs a 20 yd zero looks optimum. Shoots GREAT from 10 to 100 yds.  Attached FileRecovered these from inside a tire... Thought it was worth sharing. Most went through both sides of the tires (at the tread)  Attached File |
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Posted: 3/5/2017 1:00:42 AM EDT
[#42]
Nice bullet pic.
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TX, USA
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Posted: 3/5/2017 1:00:51 PM EDT
[#43]
I shoot mine through 10 ply truck tires, most only go through one tread and get lodged or stopped by the second tread. I was shooting the 208 ELD bullets and getting the same results.
The Rainer wedge 300 blk bullets will crush the tip upon impact but do not expand. I think it would work decent on hogs, I picked up some Lehigh 194 gr bullets to test out for expansion. |
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Posted: 3/5/2017 10:59:24 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Aby001:
I shoot mine through 10 ply truck tires, most only go through one tread and get lodged or stopped by the second tread. I was shooting the 208 ELD bullets and getting the same results. The Rainer wedge 300 blk bullets will crush the tip upon impact but do not expand. I think it would work decent on hogs, I picked up some Lehigh 194 gr bullets to test out for expansion. Have you chrono'd any of your loads? What kind of ES are you seeing? |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 3/7/2017 3:22:39 AM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Effenpig:
Have you chrono'd any of your loads? What kind of ES are you seeing? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Effenpig:
Originally Posted By Aby001:
I shoot mine through 10 ply truck tires, most only go through one tread and get lodged or stopped by the second tread. I was shooting the 208 ELD bullets and getting the same results. The Rainer wedge 300 blk bullets will crush the tip upon impact but do not expand. I think it would work decent on hogs, I picked up some Lehigh 194 gr bullets to test out for expansion. Have you chrono'd any of your loads? What kind of ES are you seeing? No I have not chrono'd any of my loads. I've been looking at getting a chrono but not sure what I want or what will work best. I really need one as I'm getting into long range shooting very soon. I've worked down on my sub loads and for some reason lil gun is proving to be more accurate than a1680 with the Rainer bullets at 100 yards. This is what I've seen from my last two range sessions at least. Recommendations on a decent chrono would be great. I work up my loads in my back pasture if that makes a difference, I don't have to wait for a cease fire to set up or take down. |
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Posted: 3/9/2017 1:36:12 AM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Aby001:
No I have not chrono'd any of my loads. I've been looking at getting a chrono but not sure what I want or what will work best. I really need one as I'm getting into long range shooting very soon. I've worked down on my sub loads and for some reason lil gun is proving to be more accurate than a1680 with the Rainer bullets at 100 yards. This is what I've seen from my last two range sessions at least. Recommendations on a decent chrono would be great. I work up my loads in my back pasture if that makes a difference, I don't have to wait for a cease fire to set up or take down. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Aby001:
Originally Posted By Effenpig:
Originally Posted By Aby001:
I shoot mine through 10 ply truck tires, most only go through one tread and get lodged or stopped by the second tread. I was shooting the 208 ELD bullets and getting the same results. The Rainer wedge 300 blk bullets will crush the tip upon impact but do not expand. I think it would work decent on hogs, I picked up some Lehigh 194 gr bullets to test out for expansion. Have you chrono'd any of your loads? What kind of ES are you seeing? No I have not chrono'd any of my loads. I've been looking at getting a chrono but not sure what I want or what will work best. I really need one as I'm getting into long range shooting very soon. I've worked down on my sub loads and for some reason lil gun is proving to be more accurate than a1680 with the Rainer bullets at 100 yards. This is what I've seen from my last two range sessions at least. Recommendations on a decent chrono would be great. I work up my loads in my back pasture if that makes a difference, I don't have to wait for a cease fire to set up or take down. Shooting Chrony units are cheap and work good. Just a bit more setup than some of the high end units I've seen some brands that use Bluetooth to upload the data right to your phone The more you spend the more features, ease of use, and accuracy you get really. |
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Posted: 3/16/2017 6:21:18 PM EDT
[Last Edit: mybronco2]
[#47]
Shooting the 208gr ELD Match from a 10" barrel, with 11.2gr of A1680 Im getting 932 fps.
Whats someone else pushed the 208gr to with 1680? I also wanted to see what the Barnes 110gr TAC-TX looked like after the "water jug test" Recovered in the 4th jug, but still split the back side and punched a hole on the 5th.  Attached File |
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Posted: 3/16/2017 10:31:05 PM EDT
[#48]
What was the range to the water jugs?
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Posted: 3/16/2017 11:27:10 PM EDT
[#49]
Like 20 feet.
Didnt wanna miss it.
The next one I will go 20 yds, and work my way out every 10 yds. Hmmm, maybe I should shoot the 10" and 14.5" and see how that plays into it. From "up close" I see no difference. |
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Posted: 3/17/2017 8:21:51 AM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mybronco2:
Like 20 feet. Didnt wanna miss it.
The next one I will go 20 yds, and work my way out every 10 yds. Hmmm, maybe I should shoot the 10" and 14.5" and see how that plays into it. From "up close" I see no difference. |
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