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Originally Posted By TOTHEMAX:
Originally Posted By buyobuyo:
Has anyone tried figuring out exactly what to cut brass down to so the amount of final trimming is minimized? What are you using to cut the brass? I just played around with the cutting length until I found a sweet spot where I didn't have to trim much. I use a cheap cutoff saw and cut at the beginning of the neck and then I have a drill attached to my rcbs rotary trimmer (removed the handle) and that seems to work fine as long as keep charging the batteries. I would have given up at the start if I had to hand trim these. |
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any details on that shell catcher...
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Does anyone have any data using unique powder?
I have a ton of this stuff and would like to know if I can use it in 300 blk also? |
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Originally Posted By tillermiller:
Does anyone have any data using unique powder? I have a ton of this stuff and would like to know if I can use it in 300 blk also? its great for quiet loads, i believe i was loading 5.6-5.7 grains of unique under a 220. bolt gun only. i haven't messed with anything lighter yet. |
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Originally Posted By trey_phish83:
Originally Posted By tillermiller:
Does anyone have any data using unique powder? I have a ton of this stuff and would like to know if I can use it in 300 blk also? its great for quiet loads, i believe i was loading 5.6-5.7 grains of unique under a 220. bolt gun only. i haven't messed with anything lighter yet. Do you have a velocity? I'm looking to use it for a gas gun... Thanks for in the info! |
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Originally Posted By tillermiller:
Originally Posted By trey_phish83:
Originally Posted By tillermiller:
Does anyone have any data using unique powder? I have a ton of this stuff and would like to know if I can use it in 300 blk also? its great for quiet loads, i believe i was loading 5.6-5.7 grains of unique under a 220. bolt gun only. i haven't messed with anything lighter yet. Do you have a velocity? I'm looking to use it for a gas gun... Thanks for in the info! average estimate 960, YMMV unique does no create enough gas to cycle the action of a AR, i wish, cause i have pounds of it as well. the best consistent powder for the AR is 1680, in my experience. lil'gun with a close sencond |
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Originally Posted By trey_phish83:
Originally Posted By tillermiller:
Originally Posted By trey_phish83:
Originally Posted By tillermiller:
Does anyone have any data using unique powder? I have a ton of this stuff and would like to know if I can use it in 300 blk also? its great for quiet loads, i believe i was loading 5.6-5.7 grains of unique under a 220. bolt gun only. i haven't messed with anything lighter yet. Do you have a velocity? I'm looking to use it for a gas gun... Thanks for in the info! average estimate 960, YMMV unique does no create enough gas to cycle the action of a AR, i wish, cause i have pounds of it as well. the best consistent powder for the AR is 1680, in my experience. lil'gun with a close sencond Kinda what I figured! I just couldn't find any data so I thought I would ask |
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if your shooting suppressed, try it on a few bullets, you'll be amazed on how quiet it is.
i often use that load for night time plinking as it won't wake the person in the next bedroom let alone next door. |
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Originally Posted By bigirv:
any details on that shell catcher... Which one? |
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Originally Posted By EvilBetty: I have been using Magtech, Win SR, Rem 7 1/2, and Wolf SRM.Sorry if I missed it in this great thread, but is there any preference on primers? CCI #41's OK to use with super and sub loads? Out of Magtech now.
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dryflash, what is the range of powder and COAL for loading 147/150gr FMJ over Lil'Gun with CCI #400 primers? Hodgdon jumps from 135gr to 208gr, and data from a google search doesn't give me a solid min/max to work with. Thanks.
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Originally Posted By OIF_Vet08-09: dryflash, what is the range of powder and COAL for loading 147/150gr FMJ over Lil'Gun with CCI #400 primers? Hodgdon jumps from 135gr to 208gr, and data from a google search doesn't give me a solid min/max to work with. Thanks. I don't use CCI primers. ( I don't like them. But that's another story) 147 gr FMJ, OAL I used was 2.10, right at the cannelure with the bullets I have. (Wideners from 1998 when I had a M1A) I used RP cases and formed my brass, used Magtech 7 1/2 primers. Started with 14.5 grs Lil'Gun, worked up to 15.5 which was the max listed in my data. 15.5 grs had no pressure signs and was the most accurate in my work up series. My batch of bullets are 2 moa bullets. Good luck eta, my first post in this thread has the "how to determine OAL for bullets used in 300 blk". |
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Originally Posted By TrooperKbC:
Originally Posted By Sturmgewehr-58:
Anybody have luck using a reduced weight buffer spring to aid cycling rounds loaded with faster burning powder? I loaded a few rounds with 225 grain bullets and VV N110 and can't get them to cycle, even with the pistol-length gas tube. It's fairly well known that N110 is too fast to provide enough gas for cycling with the factory gas port location. That's why AAC suggests AA1680. I, however, think using 300 BLK for anything other than subs is laughable. so...funny you ask...I took a pair of wire cutters with me to the range last week. I was able to get one round to lock the bolt open in my testing (only 3 of the rounds were at that strength and 3 were 0.1 gr higher). At that point, the spring was so short it would not push the bolt all the way forward and I had to use the forward assist on every shot. That could be very dangerous and cause premature bolt opening, so DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME. On the other hand, the spring was still plenty strong to strip rounds from the magazine (but I was only loading one at a time); it was just the rotation of the bolt into the lugs that needed the assist. I'm getting a couple differnet custom springs in the mail tomorrow and taking a pair of cutters with me to the range again. Once I get the bolt to hold open after each shot, I'll try functions with a full magazine (I hope I don't see custom mag springs in my near future ). Worst case scenario: I'll have to use only part-filled mags. Just be aware: You may experience feeding issues. Also, your rifle will no longer function properly with supersonics if you reduce the spring weight and don't add a gas adjustment (which is just a PITA switch around all the time, so I recommend just having a seperate upper for standard powders in supers and subs). My setup is for one specific load which is the only load I plan to use with the rifle at this time. Note: Some barrel makers design the gas port to cycle subs only if there is a supressor attached. Check with your barrel maker to find out if lack of a supressor could be effecting your results. Update: So, I tried the new spring today with no luck. It was just as bad as the original. I only tried on a full mag once, but the spring wasn't quite strong enough to get the ejector over the lip (my terminology probably stinks), but the round did chamber with minor forward assist [ETA: and maybe will chamber fine after the bolt is getting enough gas]. I'm pretty sure it was because I have no can and my gas port is set up to only cycle subs with a can; with a faster powder and subs with no can, it's just not going to work for me. I'll be scraping together some cash [but mostly credit] and a Form 4 in the near future...then I'll revisit this issue and try again. TTY in God knows how many months. |
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Originally Posted By TrooperKbC:
Update: So, I tried the new spring today with no luck. It was just as bad as the original. I only tried on a full mag once, but the spring wasn't quite strong enough to get the ejector over the lip (my terminology probably stinks), but the round did chamber with minor forward assist. I'm pretty sure it was because I have no can and my gas port is set up to only cycle subs with a can; with a faster powder and subs with no can, it's just not going to work for me. I'll be scraping together some cash [but mostly credit] and a Form 4 in the near future...then I'll revisit this issue and try again. TTY in God knows how many months. I'm hoping to try out the Wolff reduced weight spring this weekend. Hopefully I can get my handloads to cycle with my can. |
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Originally Posted By dryflash3:
Originally Posted By OIF_Vet08-09:
dryflash, what is the range of powder and COAL for loading 147/150gr FMJ over Lil'Gun with CCI #400 primers? Hodgdon jumps from 135gr to 208gr, and data from a google search doesn't give me a solid min/max to work with. Thanks. I don't use CCI primers. ( I don't like them. But that's another story) 147 gr FMJ, OAL I used was 2.10, right at the cannelure with the bullets I have. (Wideners from 1998 when I had a M1A) I used RP cases and formed my brass, used Magtech 7 1/2 primers. Started with 14.5 grs Lil'Gun, worked up to 15.5 which was the max listed in my data. 15.5 grs had no pressure signs and was the most accurate in my work up series. My batch of bullets are 2 moa bullets. Good luck eta, my first post in this thread has the "how to determine OAL for bullets used in 300 blk". Yes, I have seen the tutorial on how to determine proper seating length, but I wanted a hard length to start with before I started tweaking it. Thanks for the info! |
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Originally Posted By OIF_Vet08-09: Originally Posted By dryflash3: Originally Posted By OIF_Vet08-09: dryflash, what is the range of powder and COAL for loading 147/150gr FMJ over Lil'Gun with CCI #400 primers? Hodgdon jumps from 135gr to 208gr, and data from a google search doesn't give me a solid min/max to work with. Thanks. I don't use CCI primers. ( I don't like them. But that's another story) 147 gr FMJ, OAL I used was 2.10, right at the cannelure with the bullets I have. (Wideners from 1998 when I had a M1A) I used RP cases and formed my brass, used Magtech 7 1/2 primers. Started with 14.5 grs Lil'Gun, worked up to 15.5 which was the max listed in my data. 15.5 grs had no pressure signs and was the most accurate in my work up series. My batch of bullets are 2 moa bullets. Good luck eta, my first post in this thread has the "how to determine OAL for bullets used in 300 blk". Yes, I have seen the tutorial on how to determine proper seating length, but I wanted a hard length to start with before I started tweaking it. Thanks for the info! My "hard length" was arrived at using the tutorial methods. Which I got directly from the AAC website.
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Originally Posted By TOTHEMAX:
Originally Posted By bigirv:
any details on that shell catcher... Which one? The one on page seven of this thread.There is a partical view in one photo. [/div][div]http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/300%20Blk/P1260463_zps8958aba1.jpg[/div][/div] |
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Originally Posted By dryflash3:
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/300%20Blk/PA140262.jpg All I have ever used is H-110 with the 110 gr Tac-tx. I only use Lil'Gun with 125 gr bullets and heaver. I have a 16 inch barrel and only shoot super sonic. That's all that interests me if you want to know why. Try some H-110, I get very good results with it. I use 20.0 grs which I worked up to. OAL 2.250. If your not annealing your cases, that can also have an effect on accuracy. any details of the nice looking shell catcher available..... full photo etc... |
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Originally Posted By bigirv:
Originally Posted By TOTHEMAX:
Originally Posted By bigirv:
any details on that shell catcher... Which one? The one on page seven of this thread.There is a partical view in one photo. [/div][div]http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/300%20Blk/P1260463_zps8958aba1.jpg[/div][/div] Ah didn't even see that. Ask dryflash, that is his pic. |
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Details on brass catcher by Dryflash
For now on, it's easier to get answers when you reference what you're asking about. |
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Are there any reloading books that have 300 AAC data? I think its time for a new book for me.
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Originally Posted By chevcamo:
Details on brass catcher by Dryflash For now on, it's easier to get answers when you reference what you're asking about. Nice find. Those are pretty cool. |
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Originally Posted By InfiniteGrim:
Are there any reloading books that have 300 AAC data? I think its time for a new book for me. A lot of the data out there is for the 300 wisper. I don't know if any of the current manuals have 300 blackout data but I am sure the new versions will. I have some data listed on page 1. |
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Originally Posted By TOTHEMAX:
Originally Posted By InfiniteGrim:
Are there any reloading books that have 300 AAC data? I think its time for a new book for me. A lot of the data out there is for the 300 wisper. I don't know if any of the current manuals have 300 blackout data but I am sure the new versions will. I have some data listed on page 1. I picked up Nosler's and Hornady's newest books, both have 300 Blackout/Whisper data. That's actually how they have it listed in the books. I looked a a couple others, but can't remember if they had any info listed. Had my hands full and was already getting close to my limit on what I was allowed to spend, so didn't take that close a look at them. |
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Originally Posted By InfiniteGrim: Are there any reloading books that have 300 AAC data? I think its time for a new book for me. Hornady 9, page 380. Nosler 7, page 394.
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Originally Posted By bigirv: Originally Posted By dryflash3: http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/300%20Blk/PA140262.jpg All I have ever used is H-110 with the 110 gr Tac-tx. I only use Lil'Gun with 125 gr bullets and heaver. I have a 16 inch barrel and only shoot super sonic. That's all that interests me if you want to know why. Try some H-110, I get very good results with it. I use 20.0 grs which I worked up to. OAL 2.250. If your not annealing your cases, that can also have an effect on accuracy. any details of the nice looking shell catcher available..... full photo etc... Would be off topic to make a decent reply in this thread. So I started this thread and posted some build pics. |
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New to the forum. I read this thread and found the same questions I have asked, but not answered, so will try again.
1. Anyone have good subsonic loads for the Missouri Bullet Co 240 grain cast boolits? 2. Anyone have good subsonic loads for Sierra 200 gr Matchkings? Great board, and excellent thread! Thanks, Noveau PS: I shoot the supers in my Rem 700 300 Blackout--these loads are for a S&W MP-15...can is in the pipeline, but still several months away. Thanks again. N |
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Does anyone have any Alliant 2400 starting data worked up for either a 125gr jacketed, or the new Lee 230gr cast bullet?
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Originally Posted By Noveau: New to the forum. I read this thread and found the same questions I have asked, but not answered, so will try again. 1. Anyone have good subsonic loads for the Missouri Bullet Co 240 grain cast boolits? 2. Anyone have good subsonic loads for Sierra 200 gr Matchkings? Great board, and excellent thread! Thanks, Noveau PS: I shoot the supers in my Rem 700 300 Blackout--these loads are for a S&W MP-15...can is in the pipeline, but still several months away. Thanks again. N Welcome to the Reloading Forum. I only shoot supersonic loads, so no help with subs.
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Originally Posted By Poodleshooter: Does anyone have any Alliant 2400 starting data worked up for either a 125gr jacketed, or the new Lee 230gr cast bullet? I am working on a 160 gr cast bullet / 2400 supersonic load. Getting ok accuracy, load is ejecting but not feeding next round. Haven't shot next work up yet. Try to find some H-110, Lil'Gun or AA-1680 for easy to find data.
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Originally Posted By dryflash3:
I am working on a 160 gr cast bullet / 2400 supersonic load. Getting ok accuracy, load is ejecting but not feeding next round. Haven't shot next work up yet. Try to find some H-110, Lil'Gun or AA-1680 for easy to find data. H110/W296 runs terribly through my measure unfortunately. I'm working on a trade with some local Hornet reloaders for Lil'Gun and AA1680 in the near future, but figured I'd run 2400 for now as that's my go-to magnum pistol powder, and unfortunately I don't shoot any rifle powders faster than H4895 at this point. 160gr is an interesting weight. Are you trying to find the sweet spot for 2400 function in your gas system? |
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Originally Posted By Poodleshooter: Originally Posted By dryflash3: I am working on a 160 gr cast bullet / 2400 supersonic load. Getting ok accuracy, load is ejecting but not feeding next round. Haven't shot next work up yet. Try to find some H-110, Lil'Gun or AA-1680 for easy to find data. H110/W296 runs terribly through my measure unfortunately. I'm working on a trade with some local Hornet reloaders for Lil'Gun and AA1680 in the near future, but figured I'd run 2400 for now as that's my go-to magnum pistol powder, and unfortunately I don't shoot any rifle powders faster than H4895 at this point. 160gr is an interesting weight. Are you trying to find the sweet spot for 2400 function in your gas system? Yes, looking for a load that functions 100%. |
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Until I get my harbor freight chopsaw, is it ok to trim 100 or so 5.56 cases to blackout length in my soon to be delivered giraud? I dont want to put in any strain on it or wear out the blade.
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Yes, but clean ALL sizing/forming lube from your brass. Running your brass through walnut or corn cob will only smear the lube off and then you just put the lube back on the brass. Brass + lube on hgh speed cutter is a sure way to ruin the cutter. You'll have better service life with carbide. I don't have a Girrd, but a CTS G2.5 power trimmer. Both index off of the shoulder.
Good luck.
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stevesreloadingpages.com lists the following for the .300 Whisper and 240 grain bullets:
2400 From 9.4 grains to 11.3 grains AA-9 From 9.2 grains to 11.0 grains AA-1680 From 11.2 grains to 13.3 grains H-110 From 9.6 grains to 11.5 grains N-120 From 10.5 grains to 12.5 grains W-296 From 9.3 grains to 11.3 grains Two questions: 1. How 'interchangeable' are Whisper and Blackout loads? 2. Can jacketed bullet powder loads be used (starting at the light end, of course) for hard cast lead bullets? Thanks, Noveau |
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Originally Posted By coug91: Yes, but clean ALL sizing/forming lube from your brass. Running your brass through walnut or corn cob will only smear the lube off and then you just put the lube back on the brass. Brass + lube on hgh speed cutter is a sure way to ruin the cutter. You'll have better service life with carbide. I don't have a Girrd, but a CTS G2.5 power trimmer. Both index off of the shoulder. Good luck. Not sure I buy the lube/high speed cutter as a bad thing. Ever see a lathe or high speed mill in operation? Lots of lube being used to prolong tool life. But removing the lube from cases being trimmed with a Giraud is a good idea so the cases will be easier to hold on to. The Giraud has plenty of power to trim down the cases, but your hand may not like it after a while. |
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Originally Posted By Noveau: stevesreloadingpages.com lists the following for the .300 Whisper and 240 grain bullets: 2400 From 9.4 grains to 11.3 grains AA-9 From 9.2 grains to 11.0 grains AA-1680 From 11.2 grains to 13.3 grains H-110 From 9.6 grains to 11.5 grains N-120 From 10.5 grains to 12.5 grains W-296 From 9.3 grains to 11.3 grains Two questions: 1. How 'interchangeable' are Whisper and Blackout loads? 2. Can jacketed bullet powder loads be used (starting at the light end, of course) for hard cast lead bullets? Thanks, Noveau 1) I have used 300 Whisper data from Sierra 5 to work up loads for 300 blk. 2) Yes, what I'm doing with my 160 gr cast/2400 load.
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So I am having somewhat of an issue. I have 1X fired LC cases which were formed to .300BLK and annealed by a member here on the forum. When I got the cases I ran them through my Hornady sizing die, then performed all case prep. The cases after being run through the die measure right at 1.360" +/- .002. Bullets used to load so far have been Sierra 110gr Varminter and Barnes 110gr Tac-X HPFB. (Not the tipped version.) In attempting to determine the proper seating depth I use the method illustrated by dryflash as well as load data from the various sites. I then check to see if the round will feed in my upper. So far my test rounds have fed and ejected just fine, but my problem lies in that in measuring after ejection the bullet appears to be somehow pulling out of the case. I would expect setback, but not coming out of the case. I decided to use the seating die to give the bullets a light crimp, and the crimped test round fed and ejected without the bullet moving.
So, questions: 1) Is my neck tension jacked up? 2) Will the taper crimp from the seating die be sufficient, or should I get the Lee FCD die? 3) What would be pulling the bullet out of the case since it is not hitting the lands? Thanks in advance. |
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Originally Posted By dryflash3: Originally Posted By coug91: Yes, but clean ALL sizing/forming lube from your brass. Running your brass through walnut or corn cob will only smear the lube off and then you just put the lube back on the brass. Brass + lube on hgh speed cutter is a sure way to ruin the cutter. You'll have better service life with carbide. I don't have a Girrd, but a CTS G2.5 power trimmer. Both index off of the shoulder. Good luck. Not sure I buy the lube/high speed cutter as a bad thing. Ever see a lathe or high speed mill in operation? Lots of lube being used to prolong tool life. But removing the lube from cases being trimmed with a Giraud is a good idea so the cases will be easier to hold on to. The Giraud has plenty of power to trim down the cases, but your hand may not like it after a while. DF - you left the brass out of your equation. I want to share something that was shared with me by a man much smarter than I. The OP has a couple of choices , first I would like to provide some scenarios; 1. IF the pressure is slight on the case during cutting, the cutter "slides" over the brass, and this will dull it. 2. Depending upon the case lube, as all are an "EP" type, this will allow the cutter to "slide " over the brass, and dull it. 3. Depending upon how you "rough cut" the cases, IE; small abrasive/cut-off wheel, in combination w/ traces of case lube, this will create a "lapping" compound of sorts, and dull the cutter as well. 4. I advocate washing cases in HOT water and dish-soap, rinsing in HOT water, towel shake, 30 minutes in oven @ 200 deg.F AFTER re-sizing/rough cutting, or re-sizing period. Again, it depends upon if your case lube is water soluble, if not, you must use mineral spirits or lacquer thinner, or acetone. A little more info on this...case re-sizing lube is an "EP" (extreme pressure) lube. IF any traces are left on cases, bolt thrust becomes an issue, as well as the false indications of a "high pressure" load. (flattened primers etc.).Chambers/cases are designed to work together, as in the case expanding and gripping the chamber wall. Realize how easy a case will run through a die w/ lube and what happens w/ out, this is the "gription" that is supposed to occur during the ignition sequence. This, as well as Steel cased ammo plays hell w// the AR type platform, bolt lugs,(small and multiple), and barrel extension get beat to death due to this "non-gription" of cases to the chamber wall. As well, your chamber/barrel must be squeeky clean, you may realize all of the above, but I just thought I would share this info, w/ you, no dis-respect meant whatsoever. |
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I don't want to go off topic with a lube discussion.
So lets end it with we disagree.
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Originally Posted By OIF_Vet08-09:
So I am having somewhat of an issue. I have 1X fired LC cases which were formed to .300BLK and annealed by a member here on the forum. When I got the cases I ran them through my Hornady sizing die, then performed all case prep. The cases after being run through the die measure right at 1.360" +/- .002. Bullets used to load so far have been Sierra 110gr Varminter and Barnes 110gr Tac-X HPFB. (Not the tipped version.) In attempting to determine the proper seating depth I use the method illustrated by dryflash as well as load data from the various sites. I then check to see if the round will feed in my upper. So far my test rounds have fed and ejected just fine, but my problem lies in that in measuring after ejection the bullet appears to be somehow pulling out of the case. I would expect setback, but not coming out of the case. I decided to use the seating die to give the bullets a light crimp, and the crimped test round fed and ejected without the bullet moving. So, questions: 1) Is my neck tension jacked up? 2) Will the taper crimp from the seating die be sufficient, or should I get the Lee FCD die? 3) What would be pulling the bullet out of the case since it is not hitting the lands? Thanks in advance. This question isn't really specific to 300BLK, but I'll humor you anyway. I think your neck tension is too loose as you suspected. (ETA: That's why semi-autos crimp; some need it some don't). My guess is the abrupt stop for the forward movement of the case when shoulder meets chamber [or whatever] acts like an inertial bullet puller. I'd just use whatever crimp you want and test it to see if it moves. |
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Originally Posted By dryflash3:
Originally Posted By Noveau:
stevesreloadingpages.com lists the following for the .300 Whisper and 240 grain bullets: 2400 From 9.4 grains to 11.3 grains AA-9 From 9.2 grains to 11.0 grains AA-1680 From 11.2 grains to 13.3 grains H-110 From 9.6 grains to 11.5 grains N-120 From 10.5 grains to 12.5 grains W-296 From 9.3 grains to 11.3 grains Two questions: 1. How 'interchangeable' are Whisper and Blackout loads? 2. Can jacketed bullet powder loads be used (starting at the light end, of course) for hard cast lead bullets? Thanks, Noveau 1) I have used 300 Whisper data from Sierra 5 to work up loads for 300 blk. 2) Yes, what I'm doing with my 160 gr cast/2400 load. Thanks, Dryflash3! Noveau |
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Originally Posted By TrooperKbC: Originally Posted By OIF_Vet08-09: So I am having somewhat of an issue. I have 1X fired LC cases which were formed to .300BLK and annealed by a member here on the forum. When I got the cases I ran them through my Hornady sizing die, then performed all case prep. The cases after being run through the die measure right at 1.360" +/- .002. Bullets used to load so far have been Sierra 110gr Varminter and Barnes 110gr Tac-X HPFB. (Not the tipped version.) In attempting to determine the proper seating depth I use the method illustrated by dryflash as well as load data from the various sites. I then check to see if the round will feed in my upper. So far my test rounds have fed and ejected just fine, but my problem lies in that in measuring after ejection the bullet appears to be somehow pulling out of the case. I would expect setback, but not coming out of the case. I decided to use the seating die to give the bullets a light crimp, and the crimped test round fed and ejected without the bullet moving. So, questions: 1) Is my neck tension jacked up? 2) Will the taper crimp from the seating die be sufficient, or should I get the Lee FCD die? 3) What would be pulling the bullet out of the case since it is not hitting the lands? Thanks in advance. This question isn't really specific to 300BLK, but I'll humor you anyway. I think your neck tension is too loose as you suspected. (ETA: That's why semi-autos crimp; some need it some don't). My guess is the abrupt stop for the forward movement of the case when shoulder meets chamber [or whatever] acts like an inertial bullet puller. I'd just use whatever crimp you want and test it to see if it moves. From what I've read, that's the case... When the case stops in the chamber, the bullet wants to continue going forward, thereby acting as a bullet puller. I'd recommend getting a Lee factory crimp die and putting a light crimp on your cases. With a little bit of crimp using it you can't push/pull the bullets out by hand, and they don't seem to go anywhere while chambering, either. Plus, it's cheap for a die, and that's nice, too. |
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Luke 22:36 - And Jesus said to them, "But now, whoever has a money belt is to take it along, likewise also a bag, and whoever has no sword is to sell his coat and buy one.
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Fear is the foundation of most governments.
AR, USA
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Originally Posted By rob99rt:
Originally Posted By TrooperKbC:
Originally Posted By OIF_Vet08-09:
So I am having somewhat of an issue. I have 1X fired LC cases which were formed to .300BLK and annealed by a member here on the forum. When I got the cases I ran them through my Hornady sizing die, then performed all case prep. The cases after being run through the die measure right at 1.360" +/- .002. Bullets used to load so far have been Sierra 110gr Varminter and Barnes 110gr Tac-X HPFB. (Not the tipped version.) In attempting to determine the proper seating depth I use the method illustrated by dryflash as well as load data from the various sites. I then check to see if the round will feed in my upper. So far my test rounds have fed and ejected just fine, but my problem lies in that in measuring after ejection the bullet appears to be somehow pulling out of the case. I would expect setback, but not coming out of the case. I decided to use the seating die to give the bullets a light crimp, and the crimped test round fed and ejected without the bullet moving. So, questions: 1) Is my neck tension jacked up? 2) Will the taper crimp from the seating die be sufficient, or should I get the Lee FCD die? 3) What would be pulling the bullet out of the case since it is not hitting the lands? Thanks in advance. This question isn't really specific to 300BLK, but I'll humor you anyway. I think your neck tension is too loose as you suspected. (ETA: That's why semi-autos crimp; some need it some don't). My guess is the abrupt stop for the forward movement of the case when shoulder meets chamber [or whatever] acts like an inertial bullet puller. I'd just use whatever crimp you want and test it to see if it moves. From what I've read, that's the case... When the case stops in the chamber, the bullet wants to continue going forward, thereby acting as a bullet puller. I'd recommend getting a Lee factory crimp die and putting a light crimp on your cases. With a little bit of crimp using it you can't push/pull the bullets out by hand, and they don't seem to go anywhere while chambering, either. Plus, it's cheap for a die, and that's nice, too. Like I indicated I used the seating die to make a light taper crimp which seemed to solve the problem. Thanks for clearing up that issue though, it was bugging me. |
Yesterday, I was on the train sitting across from a smoking hot Thai chick. I kept saying to myself, please don't get an erection, please don't get an erection, but, she did.
-rainman |
Got tracking from Grad's already! (Their website says 2-3 weeks) I should be in business by the weekend. Thank you everyone for the help!
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Anyone have trouble getting a confirmation email at 300BlkTalk at the ar15.com email? Been trying to register so I can order one of the case cutting jigs but the email never comes.
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To Be One, Ask One!
www.christopherdiehl19.org Have questions about the Freemasons? IM/E-mail me! |
eBay? That's where I got mine.
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There's no place like 127.0.0.1
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Originally Posted By EvilBetty:
eBay? That's where I got mine. Didn't even think about ebay. Found the guy, order placed. Thanks! |
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To Be One, Ask One!
www.christopherdiehl19.org Have questions about the Freemasons? IM/E-mail me! |
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