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Unhappy with the paint on your new 10/22 Stainless? Want to make it look more spiffy?
AeroE  [Team Member]
Letting the bolt lap itself in might be the best way since the receiver is aluminum.

Your thread is making me think I may buy a new rifle to get a donor action, but I sure hate the idea of taking on another project with polishing right now.

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Hendricks5150  [Team Member]
Originally Posted By AeroE:
Letting the bolt lap itself in might be the best way since the receiver is aluminum.

Your thread is making me think I may buy a new rifle to get a donor action, but I sure hate the idea of taking on another project with polishing right now.



I know what you mean. Polishing can get quite monotonous.

I find that it goes by faster if you watch TV while doing it.
hotrod_sxty8  [Team Member]
I did mine up a couple of years ago (the non painted reciever)
wet sanded it and polished, also did a red inlay in the ruger label with red model paint, I didn't sand that side I didn't want to hurt the label.
and I took the bolt to the polishing wheel too..
this mod (the bolt polish)definaltly improves the cycling action.
obligatory pic
coming up...




Hendricks5150  [Team Member]
That looks great

I wish I had a buffing wheel to get mine to have a mirror finish.
hotrod_sxty8  [Team Member]
the wheels are pretty cheap, I'm a hobby polisher just do a lil work for friends and my self so I picked up a couple of wheels at the local hardware store they are pretty cheap I think I have less than 50 bucks in all of my polishing equipment (not including the various mag/alluminum polishes I have purchased thru the years...trying all the different brands) I have 3 wheels one is a stitched 6 inch wheel for the coarse polish stock removal I use the coarse polishing sticks for this one, then I have 2 buffer wheels that are used with the jewlers rouge sticks for the final polish. I have a dremmel kit too but I only use that for porting and polishing throttle bodies.
the other wheel I have is @3 inches that I use on my diegrinder for polishing automotive wheels.
and I use an antique motor with a belt driven arbor with the wheels so I didn't have to buy a bench grinder...I'm a tightwad....lol

funny thing is I started polishing car audio amplifiers and wheels for myself for friends that wanted something different( back in the early 90's I was an installer)
Hendricks5150  [Team Member]
How is that Dremel Kit? I saw it at Wal-Mart and didn't know if it was any good.

I have an old grinder as well (Given to me by my great grand father - No idea how old the grinder is). I wonder if a buffing wheel will fit on it.
hotrod_sxty8  [Team Member]
the dremmel kit is pretty decent I use it mostly for removing casting marks and smoothing out seams. for polishing with it it's a lil fast for me I use my air diegrinder for that so I can control the speed and watch out for the dremmel it can cut real deep reeal fast....
the older grinder should do a pretty good job you may need to get an arbor adaptor to fit the polishing wheels.
Bloencustoms  [Team Member]
I lucked out and got one of the last all-metal 10/22's. It's a stainless, and the trigger housing is aluminum, as is the barrel band.

The receiver, trigger housing, barrel band, and magazine release all had the funky paint on them. (I had a 90's era 10/22 and the aluminum was clear anodized, no paint.) But the barrel was stainless steel with no coating and a good finish.

I wound up having to go through this process with the receiver because I used gun scrubber spray to clean the gun, and it marred the paint. So, I just stripped the paint off and left the aluminum bare.

As for those people worried about corrosion, the Marlin Model 60 stainless has a bare, uncoated aluminum receiver form the factory. No problems there.
Hendricks5150  [Team Member]
Mine looks exactly the same after posting this thread. Still looks sharp
njitmetal  [Member]
if I bought one of the new matte black 10/22s and stripped the barrel and the receiver, is it just the same? I would assume its all the same materials... so I oculd make a 10/22 DSP look all nice and stainless, right?
Hendricks5150  [Team Member]

Originally Posted By njitmetal:
if I bought one of the new matte black 10/22s and stripped the barrel and the receiver, is it just the same? I would assume its all the same materials... so I oculd make a 10/22 DSP look all nice and stainless, right?

The receiver will be the same. I would not recommend stripping the barrel since it would not be stainless steel.


njitmetal  [Member]
Originally Posted By Hendricks5150:

Originally Posted By njitmetal:
if I bought one of the new matte black 10/22s and stripped the barrel and the receiver, is it just the same? I would assume its all the same materials... so I oculd make a 10/22 DSP look all nice and stainless, right?

The receiver will be the same. I would not recommend stripping the barrel since it would not be stainless steel.



ohhhh OK. thats what I was wondering... thanks for the info.

wildearp  [Team Member]
I did this to a couple of mine. I replaced the blued barrels, one with a VQ and the other with a stock stainless bbl. I beadblasted the anodize off, which you could also do with the paint. I then hit it with a green or purple scotchbrite wheel in a buffer to smooth it out. I then went to 600 grit wetsand and then used Wenol red and Wenol Blue to polish to a mirror, by hand. This was a fairly fast process, with the Scotchbrite wheel doing most of the heavy work. Mine have been done for close to 10 years and I haven't had to repolish. Many aluminum polish compounds have a preservative in them. A final coat of Carnauba wax will do the same thing for you.

FYI, for chems, use nitrile gloves, the thicker the better. Latex is useless for chems.
ryanwilson1979  [Member]
very cool thread.............I have an old 10/22 with a black receiver and it got scratched right on the top..........like two inches long. you can see it took everything off. I may do this now to the receiver just to clean it up.
I have a charger barrel on there now...it is blued.........but I also am using an Arch Angel pistol stock and you can only see part of the receiver.............hmmmmmmmm I think it would look great!
GENESMITH  [Life Member]
This may be a dumb question, but how can I tell the difference between a stainless 10/22 & an aluminium 10/22?

I picked up what I thought was a stainless one in a pawn shop a while back, and after reading this thread, I'm wondering if it isn't aluminium.

The barrel is stainless, and I would say it matches the receiver, but now I'm curious.


Either way, I want to polish the barrel (and if possible, the reciver), can I do this with a buffing wheel on my grinder and some polishing compound?


Gene
Hendricks5150  [Team Member]

Originally Posted By GENESMITH:
This may be a dumb question, but how can I tell the difference between a stainless 10/22 & an aluminium 10/22?

I picked up what I thought was a stainless one in a pawn shop a while back, and after reading this thread, I'm wondering if it isn't aluminium.

The barrel is stainless, and I would say it matches the receiver, but now I'm curious.


Either way, I want to polish the barrel (and if possible, the reciver), can I do this with a buffing wheel on my grinder and some polishing compound?


Gene

The difference on the stainless and "basic" (black) model is that the barrels are made of different steel (stainless model has a stainless steel barrel. I'm not sure what kind of steel the black one is made of). All factory 10/22 receivers are made of aluminum.

You can do the polishing on the setup that you described. You will want to use sand paper first to get rid of the tooling marks (you will see them when you take the paint off).

Remember when working on the barrel, don't sand the length (muzzle to chamber). You always sand around the barrel. Its a total pain in the ass, but if you have a way of making the barrel spin, it would make it a ton faster.
GENESMITH  [Life Member]
Here is the one I'm talking about:



I've since changed out the stock:





I know it's hard to see in the pic, but the barrel already has a stainless finish, and the receiver is bare aluminum.

There are no tool marks, I just want to clean up the shine on it. (hope that makes sense)

I'll have to get some better pics.

Gene
Hendricks5150  [Team Member]

Originally Posted By GENESMITH:
Here is the one I'm talking about:

http://media.ar15.com/media/viewFile.html?i=17914

I've since changed out the stock:

http://media.ar15.com/media/viewFile.html?i=18023



I know it's hard to see in the pic, but the barrel already has a stainless finish, and the receiver is bare aluminum.

There are no tool marks, I just want to clean up the shine on it. (hope that makes sense)

I'll have to get some better pics.

Gene

Ah ok, I remember that 10/22.

You still will want to work up to 2k or higher sand paper (probably could start with 800) and then move onto the buffing wheel with compound.
hotrod_sxty8  [Team Member]
yup the barrel is stainless and the reciever is alluminum.
you can polish the barrel on the wheel. and the reciever really needs to be wet sanded then polished on the wheel.
shack357  [Team Member]
Originally Posted By ryanwilson1979:
very cool thread.............I have an old 10/22 with a black receiver and it got scratched right on the top..........like two inches long. you can see it took everything off. I may do this now to the receiver just to clean it up.
I have a charger barrel on there now...it is blued.........but I also am using an Arch Angel pistol stock and you can only see part of the receiver.............hmmmmmmmm I think it would look great!


Don't get caught unless it's registered as a SBR. The charger barrel on a rifle receiver is illegal unless registered, and it's surprising how many people don't know that.
LA_357SIG  [Team Member]
Are all stainless 10/22 recievers that pitted and rough under the paint or did that aircraft paint remover react to the aluminum?

And how to protect a bare reciever if I bead blast it for a matte look since it is not real stainless?

Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile
Hendricks5150  [Team Member]

Originally Posted By LA_357SIG:
Are all stainless 10/22 recievers that pitted and rough under the paint or did that aircraft paint remover react to the aluminum?

And how to protect a bare reciever if I bead blast it for a matte look since it is not real stainless?

Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile

I can only speak for my receiver. I first tried Easy-Off oven cleaner as recommended by some other users. Little did I know that Easy-Off likes to eat aluminum, so some damage was done to my receiver. The Easy-Off could very well have caused the pitting but I do not know if the pitting is on other factory receivers. I would have to strip another down with Tal-Strip II in order to find out. I can pretty much guarantee that a new 10/22 (unless Ruger takes their head out of their asses) will have heavy tooling marks on the receiver. The marks are so heavy that you can actually see them trough the paint. These tooling marks do come out with sanding though.

The receiver will be fine if you bead blast it. Keep it clean and stored dry like you would with any other firearm.
FatAndy  [Member]
i just bought today the black 10/22 with the polished stainless barrel, i can strip this down and polish the receiver to make it look like your's correct, thanks
Hendricks5150  [Team Member]

Originally Posted By FatAndy:
i just bought today the black 10/22 with the polished stainless barrel, i can strip this down and polish the receiver to make it look like your's correct, thanks

Yep.

LA_357SIG  [Team Member]
Originally Posted By Hendricks5150:

Originally Posted By LA_357SIG:
Are all stainless 10/22 recievers that pitted and rough under the paint or did that aircraft paint remover react to the aluminum?

And how to protect a bare reciever if I bead blast it for a matte look since it is not real stainless?

Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile

I can only speak for my receiver. I first tried Easy-Off oven cleaner as recommended by some other users. Little did I know that Easy-Off likes to eat aluminum, so some damage was done to my receiver. The Easy-Off could very well have caused the pitting but I do not know if the pitting is on other factory receivers. I would have to strip another down with Tal-Strip II in order to find out. I can pretty much guarantee that a new 10/22 (unless Ruger takes their head out of their asses) will have heavy tooling marks on the receiver. The marks are so heavy that you can actually see them trough the paint. These tooling marks do come out with sanding though.

The receiver will be fine if you bead blast it. Keep it clean and stored dry like you would with any other firearm.


I left mine on for about 2 min and it came right off. I dunked it into a bucket of water until it stopped bubbling. I scraped most of it off with a chopstick before I put it in the water.

The machining marks are bad but no pitting.

And if you reeeaaalllyyy want to spruce up your stainless 10/22 you can RIT dye your silver trigger guard any color you want. I wasted 1/2 a bottle of black and 1 hour trying to dye it with hot tap water like the directions said the first time. Then I heated up some water in a sauce pan on high then brought it down to 6 then added just a little and it took less than 1 minute to totally darken. same with the trigger.
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