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Posted: 10/22/2016 8:38:17 PM EDT
[#1]
Use the aluminum blocks and crank the vise down with a piece of pipe or hit the vise handle with a mallet to tighten down.
Also heat the muzzle device up first
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Posted: 10/22/2016 8:53:27 PM EDT
[#2]
I used a small section of rubber from a bicycle inner tube, worked great.
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Posted: 10/22/2016 9:28:28 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I used a small section of rubber from a bicycle inner tube, worked great. Thank you!!! This did the trick. I don't have any tube but I found something similar. |
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Posted: 10/22/2016 9:47:13 PM EDT
[#4]
You have been mis-informed in regards to the Bev block. It is BECAUSE the device locks into the barrel extension that it works. By locking into the barrel extension it prevents the barrel alignment pin from shearing off under rotational force and ruining it while you are turning the muzzle device off the barrel.
I have used both the Bev block, and the reaction rod at home and at the gunshop. After assembling literally thousands of uppers using both devices, I can say that the BB is very cost effective and useful for the hobbyist or pro builder alike. I have never seen a barrel damaged while using either device PROPERLY. ymmv. |
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Posted: 10/22/2016 11:03:37 PM EDT
[#5]
I take my belt off wrap the barrel and tighten down in the vise
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Posted: 10/22/2016 11:16:37 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You have been mis-informed in regards to the Bev block. It is BECAUSE the device locks into the barrel extension that it works. By locking into the barrel extension it prevents the barrel alignment pin from shearing off under rotational force and ruining it while you are turning the muzzle device off the barrel. I have used both the Bev block, and the reaction rod at home and at the gunshop. After assembling literally thousands of uppers using both devices, I can say that the BB is very cost effective and useful for the hobbyist or pro builder alike. I have never seen a barrel damaged while using either device PROPERLY. ymmv. They are saying torquing or removing the muzzle device with Bev lock would change the torque on the barrel extension. |
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Posted: 10/22/2016 11:17:21 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I take my belt off wrap the barrel and tighten down in the vise LOL. That was the first thing I tried. |
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Posted: 10/23/2016 12:46:11 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
They are saying torquing or removing the muzzle device with Bev lock would change the torque on the barrel extension. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
You have been mis-informed in regards to the Bev block. It is BECAUSE the device locks into the barrel extension that it works. By locking into the barrel extension it prevents the barrel alignment pin from shearing off under rotational force and ruining it while you are turning the muzzle device off the barrel. I have used both the Bev block, and the reaction rod at home and at the gunshop. After assembling literally thousands of uppers using both devices, I can say that the BB is very cost effective and useful for the hobbyist or pro builder alike. I have never seen a barrel damaged while using either device PROPERLY. ymmv. They are saying torquing or removing the muzzle device with Bev lock would change the torque on the barrel extension. That is if the barrel extension was not torqued to spec which is 150 foot pounds. Most muzzle devise installations are less than 30 foot pounds. Removing a muzzle devise can sometimes take a lot more torque but usually not 150 foot pounds worth. Safest bet is always going to be to use barrel blocks for muzzle devise work, especially when you don't know how much torque it's going to take to bust one loose. Also, barrel extensions are not usually pinned by the indexing pin to the barrel so shearing an index pin is not something that's likely to happen if you did happen to move the barrel in the extension by either loosening or tightening a muzzle devise while using either a Reaction Rod or a BEV Block. |
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Posted: 10/23/2016 3:58:44 AM EDT
[#9]
Hey, OP - before you can know how to uninstall the device, you must first know how the device was installed. Was it a "permanent" installation? IOW: Pinned and welded or high temp soldered? Or was an adhesive like rocksett or loc-tite used?
If it was simply toqued into place with crush/peel washers, you should have been able to break it loose by now. Something else is holding this thing down, and you need to figure out what it is before you hurt yourself or damage parts of your rifle that you intended to keep. |
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Posted: 10/23/2016 9:37:14 AM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Hey, OP - before you can know how to uninstall the device, you must first know how the device was installed. Was it a "permanent" installation? IOW: Pinned and welded or high temp soldered? Or was an adhesive like rocksett or loc-tite used? If it was simply toqued into place with crush/peel washers, you should have been able to break it loose by now. Something else is holding this thing down, and you need to figure out what it is before you hurt yourself or damage parts of your rifle that you intended to keep. OP already removed it. 
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Posted: 10/23/2016 10:35:29 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I used a small section of rubber from a bicycle inner tube, worked great. This or a piece of garden hose. It is the most foolproof and cheapest method. |
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Posted: 10/23/2016 5:54:15 PM EDT
[#12]
Thanks for the help.
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Posted: 10/23/2016 7:03:28 PM EDT
[#13]
The key with aluminum barrel vise blocks is that you need to use a groove that's SMALLER (looking, anyway) than the barrel. The blocks can't grip the barrel if they're oversized at all. With some barrel profiles, that means you need more than "grip," but also "girth." Wrapping a barrel in leather is OK, but only if you can make sure the leather grips both the vise blocks and the barrel.
And sometimes you get some aluminum smears on the barrel. They come off with a little oil and some scrubbing, without hurting the barrel at all. |
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Posted: 10/23/2016 7:20:01 PM EDT
[#14]
I use the Wheeler aluminum blocks with rubber inserts.
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Posted: 10/23/2016 7:23:40 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You have been mis-informed in regards to the Bev block. It is BECAUSE the device locks into the barrel extension that it works. By locking into the barrel extension it prevents the barrel alignment pin from shearing off under rotational force and ruining it while you are turning the muzzle device off the barrel. I have used both the Bev block, and the reaction rod at home and at the gunshop. After assembling literally thousands of uppers using both devices, I can say that the BB is very cost effective and useful for the hobbyist or pro builder alike. I have never seen a barrel damaged while using either device PROPERLY. ymmv. If the barrel is spinning under torque in whatever he has already tried, then recommending to use a tool that torque's against the barrel extension is lunacy. I *have* removed muzzle devices that were likely over 100lbs of torque to remove (rocksett). I *have* popped a barrel extension loose with a reaction rod, on a muzzle device that had less than 30lbs of torque applied. Sure - you can argue that the upper wasn't assembled right, but the correct method (barrel blocks) resolves the issue and gets you back to shooting, while your method creates a paper weight. |
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Posted: 10/23/2016 9:44:23 PM EDT
[#16]
You should be holding the parts you are turning.
With a BEV block or a reaction rod you are holding the extension. Barrel blocks are made very easily from a piece of wood. Just drill a hole then cut the wood in half and you have your barrel blocks. |
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Posted: 10/24/2016 9:51:28 AM EDT
[#17]
Leather does work well, but it should be thin, not thick. Glad OP got it off with a strip of rubber. That's a good alternative. It can tear if not careful, though.
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Posted: 10/25/2016 11:03:12 AM EDT
[#18]
Good to hear that it worked for you.
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Posted: 10/25/2016 8:31:36 PM EDT
[#19]
A good barrel vise is a very worthwhile investment. I have been using one of these vise for many years on all sorts of different types barrels and it has always worked very well for me [ Even removing some old large ring Mauser barrels that were a bear to get off.
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